I currently just finished doing this , mostly by hand , my air ratchet was a little chunky and could not help in in some place , and wasn’t to bad although it did take me around 4-5 hours to do . The video was amazing and the best one I’ve have found. That you for the content
I replaced both upper and lower control arms with M3 style lower about 1 year and 1/2 ago. I believe my mistake was I tightened everything up before dropped the load on to them. Now i have to replace again due to torn the lower joints up. I will not make the mistake again.
@tokunboadeleye5100 if it's recent, you can jack it back up on jack stands, loosen it slightly, then jack up the wheel so that it's just about to lift from the stand and then retorque it down. Repeat with the other side and this will take the twisting pressure off of the bushings and will prevent tearing.
could have used M3 parts, bushing are stronger and move more freely so smoother ride as well as add negative camber to improve front end, used this as a guide when I fitted mine to my car, top job mate
I stripped a bolt+nut thread cause of incorrect info for the sub-frame bolt torque. For an "8" bolt it is - Torque on both arms - sub-frame side 68nm + 90deg, ball joint 175nm.
Thank you for the straightforward and clear description. One thing that would be helpful is to give the torque specs. Not always easy for a novice to locate and my concern is some might ignore this important step. Also tightening at ride height is an important step and in watching some videos they seem to ignore this step .
Depends on the bolt...the ball joints are fairly low, like 30-40 ftlbs. The smaller bolts on the control arms are about 55ftlbs. The large bolts that go through the frame are 70 ftlbs. To keep it from spinning you need a wrench on the other side. For the ball joints you need to have a torx driver on top to hold it while tightening with a wrench on the nut.
Hello I just wanted to ask regarding measurements to the center of the wheel,...my driveway is not perfectly flat is it leaning on one side, is that gonna influence the measurements in any way? Thanks
Probably won't affect it much. What you can do is get the measurement on each side before you lift the car and then average them. One might be like a quarter inch higher, I think it will be a small difference. Basically when you do the final torque, you want it to be sort of close so the bushings don't get twisted when you set the car down again. It doesn't need to be completely exact.
Interesting question. If I have bad control arms, can I continue driving it for next let say 2 or 3 years? I know it might mess up tires, but will it mess up something else? I don't really feel any vibration during driving.
Any time after about 10 years it's a good idea to check the bushings in the control arms or tie rods. Anything rubber really...you can look at hoses and belts as well. But to check the arms, jack up that corner and look for movement when you push the wheel left to right (grab each side) and also top to bottom. Any play and you'll have some vibration and lack of steering precision when driving.
i know i’m awfully late to the party haha but if you see this could you tell me where you got the 18mm and 21 mm self-locking nuts? i can’t find them anywhere…
I think all the lock nuts came with the control arm kit from fcp euro. A couple of the little bracket style nuts I bought separately just in case...I think I had to get that from the dealer.
Do you recommend strictly going OEM for these parts? Had an emergency and needed parts quick from autozone but can hear some clunking due to the cheap quality so I’m going back to OEM because bimmers don’t need cheap quality. Lesson learned
Typically yes, although I try to avoid getting them from the dealer. A good third party parts supplier that specializes in German cars will have the part made by the same mfg as used by bmw but often not branded with the actual BMW logo. These are usually completely identical to the BMW branded part but will save you quite a bit.
@@OGPedXing okay yeah I thought as much. You’re just paying for the BMW Logo honestly. I’ll get OEM Parts from FCPEuro or rmeuropean for great pricing compared to the stealership.
Hi the bolt on the track control arm lower one is seized and broke abit of the torx bit and got stuck in it.any advice on what to do with bit stuck and how to remove the bolt. I managed to get the back bolt out though.
Spray it all down with some penetration fluid like liquid wrench first and let that soak in. You may be able to pop the broken bit out by tapping it at an angle with a chisel or a pick or small screwdriver you don't mind sacrificing. Once it's out, using a new bit to hold it (rather than turn it) turn the outside of the nut back and forth to get it to unseize (tighten it a little and then try to untighten). If that's not working you'll need to apply heat with a small torch. Usually that will do it.
What kind of vibrations is possible with bad/old control arms? I have a vibrations in my e90 2007 that appear at 70-75mph and disapper when I drive faster and I dont know what is wrong ;/
@@OGPedXing Thank you I will try change it too. I check: wheels, tyres ( second set) change shaft couplers 2 pcs and shaft support so I try now control arms :)
The mechanic said my front lower control arm bushing is blown out. So I ordered both complete arm w/ ball joint for the left side. Is the bushing included with a complete arm I’m a little confused someone help lol
Right, it should come complete with the bushing. You may need the ball joint nuts...they are single use and sometimes they come with the ball joint and sometimes they don't (unfortunately).
@@OGPedXing thanks for replying just relieved all my stressed. And yah I saw when you said that if they don’t come with it I’ll just make a trip to the dealer thanks again.
I think it will be a different part number. You can check on one of the big euro part suppliers to confirm. In general the replacement process will be about the same though.
The mechanic said my front lower control arm bushing is blown out. So I ordered both complete arm w/ ball joint for the left side. Is the bushing included with a complete arm I’m a little confused someone help lol
One each for sure, the ones that go on the end of the ball joint end. I also got the square nut ones but these turned out to not be single use. You can replace them or not, depending on their condition.
@@assferret depends on if you're doing both the lower and upper arms...if both like I did, then a total of 4, two for each side of the car. Another way of saying it is each arm has a ball joint, and each ball joint requires one single use nut.
@@alexc3162 I found out the same thing on amazon was a bit cheaper (same manufacturer) so I linked that. Also FCP didn't include the nuts that were supposed to be included which was annoying.
I currently just finished doing this , mostly by hand , my air ratchet was a little chunky and could not help in in some place , and wasn’t to bad although it did take me around 4-5 hours to do . The video was amazing and the best one I’ve have found. That you for the content
BMW suspension that has not had any salt from snow... so pretty, clean and dry.
Nice guide well done, used for my e90 328i LCI model, no sense in replacing bushings just get a the entire part as you've done!
I replaced both upper and lower control arms with M3 style lower about 1 year and 1/2 ago. I believe my mistake was I tightened everything up before dropped the load on to them. Now i have to replace again due to torn the lower joints up. I will not make the mistake again.
I didn’t lower the car when I did mine recently. What should I do
@tokunboadeleye5100 if it's recent, you can jack it back up on jack stands, loosen it slightly, then jack up the wheel so that it's just about to lift from the stand and then retorque it down. Repeat with the other side and this will take the twisting pressure off of the bushings and will prevent tearing.
could have used M3 parts, bushing are stronger and move more freely so smoother ride as well as add negative camber to improve front end, used this as a guide when I fitted mine to my car, top job mate
Link to kit u got sir
@@99centstoreful it's on FCPeuro
really?
I stripped a bolt+nut thread cause of incorrect info for the sub-frame bolt torque. For an "8" bolt it is -
Torque on both arms - sub-frame side 68nm + 90deg, ball joint 175nm.
Cool, thanks for posting that.
Thank you for the straightforward and clear description. One thing that would be helpful is to give the torque specs. Not always easy for a novice to locate and my concern is some might ignore this important step. Also tightening at ride height is an important step and in watching some videos they seem to ignore this step .
Great point!
So what’s the torque spec then?
My bolt just keeps spinning can’t get it past the last few threats
Depends on the bolt...the ball joints are fairly low, like 30-40 ftlbs. The smaller bolts on the control arms are about 55ftlbs. The large bolts that go through the frame are 70 ftlbs. To keep it from spinning you need a wrench on the other side. For the ball joints you need to have a torx driver on top to hold it while tightening with a wrench on the nut.
Thank you Jesus Christ you’re a god send
Outstanding video, I appreciate the in-depthness you provided us in this video. Much appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing video keep up the good job man 💯💪🏻👍🏼👍🏼
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks a lot for this video!
What are the torque specs on the control arm bolts? Thanks and great video
It is 100 Nm plus 90 degrees for the e90...I think it should be the same across all e9x but not 100% sure.
Thanks
Do you have to do every control arm at ride height or only these??
living in Boston and seeing the under side of some Beamers makes me jealous, must be nice to not have to worry about EVERY nut being stuck or stripped
Hello I just wanted to ask regarding measurements to the center of the wheel,...my driveway is not perfectly flat is it leaning on one side, is that gonna influence the measurements in any way?
Thanks
Probably won't affect it much. What you can do is get the measurement on each side before you lift the car and then average them. One might be like a quarter inch higher, I think it will be a small difference. Basically when you do the final torque, you want it to be sort of close so the bushings don't get twisted when you set the car down again. It doesn't need to be completely exact.
@@OGPedXing thanks alot, I will do that
hit the mark with that intro lol
Interesting question. If I have bad control arms, can I continue driving it for next let say 2 or 3 years? I know it might mess up tires, but will it mess up something else? I don't really feel any vibration during driving.
Will make your tires wear more quickly the worse they get, can also make it dangerous in rain
Could you explain to me when E90 is due to inspection what does that really mean I'm doing my control arm as of tomorrow
Any time after about 10 years it's a good idea to check the bushings in the control arms or tie rods. Anything rubber really...you can look at hoses and belts as well. But to check the arms, jack up that corner and look for movement when you push the wheel left to right (grab each side) and also top to bottom. Any play and you'll have some vibration and lack of steering precision when driving.
Hello, thank you for your video, very informative! What is the torque you use for the arms?
Should be 100 Nm plus 90 degrees.
How many lock nuts will I need to do the exact same job as you did on my own vehicle??
For the same job (control arms), it's one lock nut per ball joint so 4 total. If you do tie rods in addition it will be two more
i know i’m awfully late to the party haha but if you see this could you tell me where you got the 18mm and 21 mm self-locking nuts? i can’t find them anywhere…
I think all the lock nuts came with the control arm kit from fcp euro. A couple of the little bracket style nuts I bought separately just in case...I think I had to get that from the dealer.
Do you recommend strictly going OEM for these parts? Had an emergency and needed parts quick from autozone but can hear some clunking due to the cheap quality so I’m going back to OEM because bimmers don’t need cheap quality. Lesson learned
Typically yes, although I try to avoid getting them from the dealer. A good third party parts supplier that specializes in German cars will have the part made by the same mfg as used by bmw but often not branded with the actual BMW logo. These are usually completely identical to the BMW branded part but will save you quite a bit.
@@OGPedXing okay yeah I thought as much. You’re just paying for the BMW Logo honestly. I’ll get OEM Parts from FCPEuro or rmeuropean for great pricing compared to the stealership.
great video thanks
Clean Install, you should try using our products on your vehicle Thank you for the content
Is this also for 335xi?
3:10 damn I know that struggle, lol.
Hi the bolt on the track control arm lower one is seized and broke abit of the torx bit and got stuck in it.any advice on what to do with bit stuck and how to remove the bolt. I managed to get the back bolt out though.
Spray it all down with some penetration fluid like liquid wrench first and let that soak in. You may be able to pop the broken bit out by tapping it at an angle with a chisel or a pick or small screwdriver you don't mind sacrificing. Once it's out, using a new bit to hold it (rather than turn it) turn the outside of the nut back and forth to get it to unseize (tighten it a little and then try to untighten). If that's not working you'll need to apply heat with a small torch. Usually that will do it.
@@OGPedXing thanks for the reply and tips. Will give it a go again tomorrow. Subbed 👍🏼
do i need alignment for wheel after control arm replacement ?
Yes, it is a good idea to do one.
What are torque specs on the lower control arms
This link has the correct info: www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-replace-control-arms-end-links-tie-rods-ball-joints-bmw-e90-x1-325i-328i-330i-335i
What kind of vibrations is possible with bad/old control arms? I have a vibrations in my e90 2007 that appear at 70-75mph and disapper when I drive faster and I dont know what is wrong ;/
Yes, could be control arms or bushings. Also check for uneven tire wear or misbalancing. Could also be tie rod ends or the wheel bearing.
@@OGPedXing Thank you I will try change it too. I check: wheels, tyres ( second set) change shaft couplers 2 pcs and shaft support so I try now control arms :)
wheel bearings?
I don’t know how you compressed the suspension with the wood my jack keeps moving back
Yeah I do remember having to move it a few times to get it just right. You can also try from the inside under the ball joint area.
The mechanic said my front lower control arm bushing is blown out. So I ordered both complete arm w/ ball joint for the left side. Is the bushing included with a complete arm I’m a little confused someone help lol
Right, it should come complete with the bushing. You may need the ball joint nuts...they are single use and sometimes they come with the ball joint and sometimes they don't (unfortunately).
@@OGPedXing thanks for replying just relieved all my stressed. And yah I saw when you said that if they don’t come with it I’ll just make a trip to the dealer thanks again.
After changing the arms do you need to align the car ?
No, should not be necessary. If you do the tie rods or ends while you're in there, then get an alignment.
Will these same control arms fit a 2006 330i?
I think it will be a different part number. You can check on one of the big euro part suppliers to confirm. In general the replacement process will be about the same though.
Will this fit my 2007 328i e90?
The mechanic said my front lower control arm bushing is blown out. So I ordered both complete arm w/ ball joint for the left side. Is the bushing included with a complete arm I’m a little confused someone help lol
Funny I have the same color mate finish
How many locking nuts do I need?
One each for sure, the ones that go on the end of the ball joint end. I also got the square nut ones but these turned out to not be single use. You can replace them or not, depending on their condition.
@@OGPedXing I'm sorry, does one each mean two nuts or four nuts?
@@assferret depends on if you're doing both the lower and upper arms...if both like I did, then a total of 4, two for each side of the car. Another way of saying it is each arm has a ball joint, and each ball joint requires one single use nut.
Id get the refresh nut and bolt kit from FCP or ECS tuning. Better to refresh than re-use 👍
You should do smoked headlights
Torque specs?
Must have bought part off ebay hope they last atleast a year
FCP Euro.
@@OGPedXing I though they were from Amazon? That's the link in description.
@@alexc3162 I found out the same thing on amazon was a bit cheaper (same manufacturer) so I linked that. Also FCP didn't include the nuts that were supposed to be included which was annoying.
How many upper and lower control arms are there?
For the front suspension there are an upper and lower on each side, so 4 pieces total for the car.
Fair play for doing videos but boy you talk on a lot??? 🤷♂️
Great video. Thank you!