I got stuck with sway bar pushing down and wing of lower con arm not going under bushing solution is to lift the rotor with jack which losens tension on sway bar making it easier to place wing below sway bar bushing.
What is that boot/rod above what your working on? Not the CV joint, the other one. I can’t find the name and it seems to be a Mazda thing as I haven’t seen it on other cars.
I genuinely love your videos, but you made the part where you 'gently rock' the engine forward to release the trapped bolt seem WAY too easy! But I guess that's because you only did the driver's side (which in my experience didn't need to release the engine mount at all) .... Trying to get the passenger side bolt out from being trapped between the control arm and AC unit while laying under the car with no lift, my various 1-3 foot pry bars wouldn't even budge things, so I had to improvise... Rigged up a rolling (bottle) jack stand to hold up the engine and placed another (scissor) jack in between the engine and subframe to push the engine forward in order to get that bolt out. Trial and error saw the engine jump backwards out of its mount before I worked out this method, but it worked out well in the end to allow me to get perfect alignment when putting the bolt back in for the engine mount even with that issue, so I'd definitely recommend this to anyone struggling with that passenger side control arm!
Why would you need to replace the entire control arm rather than just replace worn out ball joint? If anyone can tell me I would really appreciate an answer. 🙏🍻
Depends on the vehicle, sometimes replacing just the balljoint itself can be harder than a whole control arm. (Sometimes needs pressed in/out) sometimes it's cost as well, I replaced the whole front end on my jeep back in the day just because the parts were so cheap.
I ended up jacking up the trans, removing the trans mount bolt, jacked the trans up just a tad more until the front bolt had clearance. Didn't need to move the engine around.
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Thanks to all the guys at TRQ. Your videos are the most comprehensible on the internet. Everything is clear and well explained and executed. Good job!
I got stuck with sway bar pushing down and wing of lower con arm not going under bushing solution is to lift the rotor with jack which losens tension on sway bar making it easier to place wing below sway bar bushing.
he should do the passenger side one, which is more difficult.
So easy when you got a hoist not so much when ur in a drive way and using jack stands #beentheredonethat
This looked quick. How long did it actually take?
What's the torque spec for the trans mount that you loosened? Would be nice to list that stuff for us, otherwise excellent video
who else noticed the torn swaybar bushing? i also saw new rotors and a new transaxle mount, but the same used control arm fasteners.
bolts dont really expire
Pretty good video. Wish i could do this type of work myself.
What is that boot/rod above what your working on? Not the CV joint, the other one. I can’t find the name and it seems to be a Mazda thing as I haven’t seen it on other cars.
What's the size on pinch bolt and nut? I want new ones on my 2012 Mazdaspeed 3
Wish you guys would say what sizes everything is rather than just pointing
6:25
A little hooky doo and a little pi-dong
Nice work good
Beautiful
Nice one !!! Thank you :)
My friends bushing bolts are rusted and can’t come off, what do you recommend?
WD-40
Fire
Brake fluid
4:40 "You don't wanna put any pressure directly on that"
4:10 🤨🤨🤨🤨
Man I thought about tackling this in my garage, But I don't have a lift or air tools🤦
You can but needs some floor jacks.
U can do it without lift. Jack's and stands.
Cool I'm stuck in my garage because you didn't cover his what to loosen up on passenger side to reassemble.
I genuinely love your videos, but you made the part where you 'gently rock' the engine forward to release the trapped bolt seem WAY too easy! But I guess that's because you only did the driver's side (which in my experience didn't need to release the engine mount at all) .... Trying to get the passenger side bolt out from being trapped between the control arm and AC unit while laying under the car with no lift, my various 1-3 foot pry bars wouldn't even budge things, so I had to improvise... Rigged up a rolling (bottle) jack stand to hold up the engine and placed another (scissor) jack in between the engine and subframe to push the engine forward in order to get that bolt out. Trial and error saw the engine jump backwards out of its mount before I worked out this method, but it worked out well in the end to allow me to get perfect alignment when putting the bolt back in for the engine mount even with that issue, so I'd definitely recommend this to anyone struggling with that passenger side control arm!
Why would you need to replace the entire control arm rather than just replace worn out ball joint? If anyone can tell me I would really appreciate an answer. 🙏🍻
Depends on the vehicle, sometimes replacing just the balljoint itself can be harder than a whole control arm. (Sometimes needs pressed in/out) sometimes it's cost as well, I replaced the whole front end on my jeep back in the day just because the parts were so cheap.
Mazda 3 control arms is 1 of 4 of major Mazda 3 problems
I ended up jacking up the trans, removing the trans mount bolt, jacked the trans up just a tad more until the front bolt had clearance. Didn't need to move the engine around.
A little pitÕn
This was terrible lol
This job sucks