Couple people have asked why I tested it if it didn't produce spark when the "kill-wire' was disconnected. This video is just a guide on how to test your coils (get the proper specs and use a multimeter to test for resistance). Basically, if you unplug your ground wire on your coil and it doesn't produce spark, simply replace the coil. However, if the coil produces weak spark, then you can use this video as a guide to test your coil, and determine if the coil is the issue. I also have a video that shows a coil producing weak spark, due to a spark plug cap that has too much resistance. Once the engine got hot, it would shut down. Watch that video here; th-cam.com/video/ejAX6Bn4WSo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, usually due to excess of grass/dirt build up around the engine and coil pack. This insulates the engine an causes the coil to stop working, I've seen it happen from mouse nests too!
Could also been a plugged fuel cap as well that's shutting your Engine down after a while. It could be vapour lock, because the cap doesn't let air into the tank so it stops fuel from going into the carburetor. Once you let it sit for a bit they usually fire back up and run for about 10-15mins.
@@EliminatorPerformance Wow! Vapor lock does not cause the coils to stop firing! Vapor lock is a fuel delivery problem from excessive heat causing the fuel to "vapor lock"... Hence the name!!!
@@timallbritton3716 I wasn't referring to a coil issue when speaking of vapour lock. He said his mower would die after it got hot. Usually vapour lock causes an engine to shut down after 10-15mins
Finally! If you can't understand this video, take your small engine to a shop. This explained it better than any manual or video I have seen. Thank you!
I watched your video, checked my coil and found out it was a ground issue. Without your help, I would of ordered a new coil when I didn't need it. I do appreciate your video..
It really amazes me that backyard mechanics still don't know how to use a voltmeter. I have a very close friend he's very good at fixing things but you give him a voltmeter you would have thought you just asked him to cure cancer. After buying my first one back in the '80s I had good friends of mine that were mechanics and they showed me how to use it. I also fortunate that has a brother-in-law who's a electrician and he had showed me things that my mechanic friends did not know. Now you go to today I have voltmeters all over my house. Every time for the longest if I saw a good deal on one that did something different than the ones I had I went right out and picked it up. I enjoyed watching you diagnose these coils. I have watched several of your videos and enjoyed them all.
I had searched for a clear concise explanation on how to test a mower coil. This was excellent. Thank you for explaining this so just about everyone can understand!
You did a very good job on this video. Really helped a lot. The impressive thing was being honest at the end by placing all the old parts in a bag and back to the customer. Again great job.
I've watched dozens of coil testing videos over the past two days. all promising to show details on coil testing and none of them were informative... Until THIS ONE!!!! Thank you!!!
Excellent! I wish more TH-camrs would be as concise and to the point as you are. I just subscribed. :) A note: It appears that some of the aftermarket coils, and in fact the coils on my John Deere (Kawasaki) mower have the kill switch terminal connected internally to the primary, rather than the secondary. This results in an Open Loop (infinite resistance, or 0.L. on the meter screen)... yet the coil is good. Grounding the primary or the secondary will kill the spark, so either side can be used by the manufacturer. If the secondary is connected to the kill terminal, you'll get the same reading you get when you read from the plug wire to frame ground. The plug wire will have no, or very low resistance when you check ohms to the kill terminal. But again, if they made the coil such that the kill lug grounds the primary, there will be no connection at all (open loop) to the frame or the plug wire. Normally only one coil fails and the Right coil was obviously bad. So... it's possible that these coils had primary connected kill switches, and the Left one was okay. B to C or B to A should be totally open on a primary kill switch lug... they're making these things both ways... It's best to change both of them anyway, so it's good the customer got a fresh set of coils. :)
When measuring the coil off an engine that dies when it warms up, I use a heat gun to see if things change as the coil gets hot. I have found a number of coils on mowers, chainsaws and weedeaters that will open up after they warm up. When in doubt, replace the coil. They are responsible for many intermittent problems after a few years of operation.
Well done. No chatter. Right to the point. I was wondering if the tolerance is pretty much standard for engines of a certain hp. If they are, you don't have to look around for the manual every time you're working, say,on a Briggs 17 to 24 hp. For example, if you're setting valve gaps, after a while you realize that if. you're dealing with an ordinary engine type, you don't have to look up the settings every time. You sort of know.
I've found that as You mentioned, all small engine Coils test out this way, even little 2 Stroke Weed Eater Motors, great Video for the DIY Guys, thanks for sharing! 👍🤠
Great diagnosis. It’s always a good idea to test the meter and leads before testing the component first though. By just touching the leads together first you should get 0 ohms. Just in case you have selected the wrong range or have a faulty lead on the meter or have one of the leads plugged into the wrong socket of the meter.
At least Kawasaki is very good about giving you full specs on everything in their service manuals, including resistance readings on all relevant electrical components. Onan was also good about giving good specs in the service manual too. Tecumseh was probably the worst about giving you all the needed info.
Great video buddy! Thanks for the great information especially how to find the resistance in on the internet super helpful to the point very well explained you got a new subscriber buddy God bless you and yours!
@@EliminatorPerformance ohh ok. Well before I got you response I tested my “right” coil and it had the same results as your did on your “Left” one. From the “Kill” to the “Base”
had a no start on a similar motor. This wasnt my problem but removing the kill wire to test was a good tip. I think my issue was rust on the coils. I removed them, cleaned, and reset the gap to the flywheel and got spark. Thanks
@4:20 Good comment about the plug connector. I just had that very problem on my weed wacker. I was happy when I found out I didn't have to buy a coil, which may not have been worth it for my old Echo.
Your on a different level sir. Taryl and Steve are awesome, Mick is tryin a wee bit to hard, Donnie Boy well tbo imo is a self absorbed cry baby, and you send it straight and harshly to the point, except in a good harsh kinda way. Hard to explain but easily in my top 3 yt favs. Keep it up bud. Zippo and mower doc I'll have words for you guys soon I'm sure just ain't watched enuff yet but so far so good. Lol
I have the same engine Kawasaki in a Husqvarna tractor mower. My first diagnosis was no spark. But I was wrong. I took a test light n placed it in spark plug cap and other end on spark plug(still in engine). Turned over engine and when I looked at plug there was a spark while holding it close to plug. Then with engine switched on I heard a small noise( sizzle). Realized sound was coming from bottom of carbaretor. Then cleaned plug in on solenoid. Still heard noise. Then tapped it gently with screwdriver and heard a click. Engine cranked up. I cut grass with mower for an hour. No issues. Just be sure there is actually no spark b4 buying a coil. I have been told they rarely go bad in pairs. Usually just one goes bad. Great video but I’m certainly a novice on a volt meter. Both mine checked bad but obviously my skills are not where they should be on the volt meter.
the best way to check a lawn mower spark is to remove spark plug ask someone to hold the spark plug while it is plugged into the coil and then crank , the higher the jump and the louder your laugh the better your coil works
My ride-on has the same FH531V v-twin. It still runs but it's been progressively running rougher on each use and I found the spark is intermittent on both plugs. What would you know, it's got the same issue where both ignition coils are out of spec! I've used the mower every single year since purchase and so it would seem they've just gone bad with age.
Very Very good video, Thanks for including the coil air gap!. Dad used to stick a match book between magnet and coil, probabley learned it from a sage mower buff. Would this be a feasable method for adjustment? Please suggest
Fixing is not worth it when the labour and parts will cost more than 60% of the replacement cost of the unit. Additionally, if it is a push or self propelled mower not worth repair if the deck is rotting out and you can not get a decent deck for a cheap price used.
can you have spark and still have a coil issue? I have Fc540v kawasaki that died but throws spark but will not start and blows flames out carb. key isn’t sheared and magnet hits last part of coil at tdc. all i’ve got left is the coil or valves messed up but I did check valve lash and it’s fine .006. Tried replacing the ignition module aka ignitor and still won’t start. my coil test says plug end to base is within specs at 11,300 but kill to base I can’t figure a reading based on specs calling for 60-100 and the best i can get is 0.7 on the 200 ohm setting. I tried pulling what you called kill wire that goes to the ignition module but then I have no spark at all.
That's a heavy bill for a lawn tractor. Could almost buy a new one for the parts and labor. Great Great Video. What about 2 stroke coils. I'm having a real.problem lately with Stihl and now a shindaiwa blower. Weaker No Spark
I just acquired a long neglected John Deere tractor that had a list of problems and a longer list of new part requirements. This unit had sat for an extended time also and had mice nests under the engine cover. They chewed up the plug wire at the coil, but not enough to make it unusable. Looking at the stacked laminations, one is becoming distorted by rust stack. The bolts that atttach these coils to the block look like they'll snap completely if any attempt is made to remove them......
Thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing the knowledge with others. Very informative and to the point. Liked and following. Also curious how much everything wound up costing the customer after ordering parts and labor?
Awesome video THANK YOU........I had a lawnguy explain to me about the coil.......but he was in a hurry so I really couldnt keep up with it........having said that.....my question is I have a twin briggs and stratton 21hp mower , he told me that if lets say the right cylinder doesnt start and run (without the plug in ) that it would be the opposite cylinder with the defective coil........did I missunderstand ??? Thank you again !!!
Yea so fire up your machine, and unplug 1 side. If it runs worse, you know that cylinder had spark. If it runs the same, and there's no change, you know that cylinder didn't have spark.
@@EliminatorPerformance aahhhhhhhhh ok now its coming together.....i know its not rocket science..........thank you so much......very MUCH appreciated....
It might be more helpful to call B "Base" the "ground". Since it is electrically grounded to the engine. Likewise the "kill wire" is actually the primary coil lead.
i worked on atv's years ago and never could get one coil to read within specks according to their manual but they all worked. so i am not setting much stock in testing a coil this way.
Great Video, wish I would have saw it last week. Wondering if anyone can help or maybe you have a condenser bench test video as I am a little foggy on that. I have a Kohler 8hp k181. Replaced coil, still no spark. I am thinking I probably should have ordered a condenser also. By the way only way for me to find parts is EBay, straight from China of course so just hoping they are good. Anyway in Checking the condenser, I am on 20k ohm setting, Red probe to wire, black too body, meter just stays at 1, should I not see a certain ohm reading meaning i am charging the condenser? Then I would check DC volts, mv I would think? Or do I just want it too hold a charge? Thanks for any help.
Thanks for the test numbers for the coils. Had been a lot of years since i had to. Test a coil. Very helpful. One thing to note is that a coil wire to base and the primary winding that is infinite is the some MTD mowers have a built in resistor in the spark plug end of the secondary wire. Mine had a open in that resistor. Eliminated it and the mower runs. Thanks again.
I got a brand new champion generator and is has no spark when its cold out. Ran for 3 hours and wouldn't start again. Brought it inside. Gapped the coil, cleaned flywheel and magnet. Got great spark. Died in 3 seconds in the cold air. Common for these cheap coils? Ever tried adding shielding up to the coil ends to prevent eddies?
Hey love the video! I have replaced my ignition coil however when I short the coil it should turn off the engine. (Kill switch) but it doesn’t. I tested the kill switch and it’s giving ground to the coil. How would I test the coil? Any help would be great.
If the wire from the coil to the kill switch is connected then you should be able to kill the engine when throttling down unless the kill switch wire to the coil has a break in it. Use an ohm meter on ohms for continuity to check that kill wire only if it has continuity it should work. You may not be getting a good ground when you ground it out or the stand ups that the coil mounts to are badly corroded and you are losing your ground there. We always polish with a fine emery paper the stand ups prior to mounting a new coil. Hope this helps out, sorry so late since we have so many comments and rarely go back to answer new ones hope you understand. By the way we only need 200 more views to hit a million which would be our first million view video. Appreciate passing on the word about EP and this video, tell them to hit the subscribe button also and thanks again for commenting.
If you've got compression, spark and fuel and it still won't run, check that the flywheel didn't break the keyway and rotate, putting the engine timing way off.
In Great vid, You said you googled the FP531V engine code but the vid displays FH531V-BS06. Quite certain not much differance but where did you get the engine code?
Brilliant. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. That was so helpful. Can you tell me if it's possible to test the little Igniter module that's inline on the kill wire on a Kawasaki FC400 engine ? I have a weak, almost non existent spark.
This is what I was looking for. Page 37 of this Kawasaki FC400V workshop manual. www.encoreequipment.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/14hp_FC420V1.pdf
@@EliminatorPerformance - In that link on p37 is a test for what they call a "Control Unit". It does look like it could be an Igniter. Its got 2 Ohms readings. Same points but reversed polarity. I've also come across some people who've fixed a bad spark by cleaning up the earth contact for the igniter. Sounds promising.
The two Ohms readings given in that manual for testing the igniter are 60-100 and 400-600. On the 60-100 test, I'm getting about 800. The other one, I'm getting about 580. On the strength of that I've ordered a new igniter. Thanks for helping me go in the right direction with this.
Have you ever heard of a coil starting and running fine, and then after a few minutes, start hearing a random miss (it's a one cylinder mower), than after a few more minutes it will stop running while cutting. Won't start back up immediately, but after waiting about a minute or two, it will start and run fine, and then repeat the same thing. Could it be doing this when it gets hot and fails? I have replaced the carburetor, auto choke assembly, and gaskets, removed and thoroughly cleaned out the tank and filter with detergent and water, dried thoroughly. I only run ethanol free gasoline and I always filter it through a funnel with a fresh each time conical coffee filter, and there is no water in it. It was doing this same thing before the carburetor replacement too. Sometimes, before dying, it starts to just run real rough and is trying to die, and if I can quick enough jiggle the governor rod, it will smooth out and run a few more minutes, but will do the whole process again. I think I need a new thermowax unit because it keeps the choke plate open always but I don't see how this would make it die once warmed up. I may have two simultaneous unrelated problems. It is a Honda GCV160 engine. I would replace the coil and see but they cost $60!
I appreciate your testing, however it is possible you mis-diagnosed a faulty coil from the B-C connection. When looking for a reading from 10-30K ohms, you cannot use the 20K ohm scale. It must be reset to the next higher range.
How can the timing be safely tested for an unknown (No markings and don't know where it came from.) coil? I know the length of the HV wire does affect it, with being shorter having a more advanced timing. You can have a dozen unmarked coils that look identical, but will fire at a different time.
I think my Kawasaki v twin needs coils it idles fine but starts sputtering and almost dies out when I give it any throttle I just wanted to get your opinion on what could be causing the problem before I buy new coils it’s got 2300+ hours and I don’t know when the coils were last replaced or if they were ever replaced and it’s running on both cylinders
Couple people have asked why I tested it if it didn't produce spark when the "kill-wire' was disconnected.
This video is just a guide on how to test your coils (get the proper specs and use a multimeter to test for resistance).
Basically, if you unplug your ground wire on your coil and it doesn't produce spark, simply replace the coil.
However, if the coil produces weak spark, then you can use this video as a guide to test your coil, and determine if the coil is the issue.
I also have a video that shows a coil producing weak spark, due to a spark plug cap that has too much resistance. Once the engine got hot, it would shut down. Watch that video here; th-cam.com/video/ejAX6Bn4WSo/w-d-xo.html
Have you ever run across a coil that tested good and would fire until the engine got hot then shut down and stop firing?
Yes, usually due to excess of grass/dirt build up around the engine and coil pack.
This insulates the engine an causes the coil to stop working, I've seen it happen from mouse nests too!
Could also been a plugged fuel cap as well that's shutting your Engine down after a while. It could be vapour lock, because the cap doesn't let air into the tank so it stops fuel from going into the carburetor.
Once you let it sit for a bit they usually fire back up and run for about 10-15mins.
@@EliminatorPerformance Wow! Vapor lock does not cause the coils to stop firing! Vapor lock is a fuel delivery problem from excessive heat causing the fuel to "vapor lock"... Hence the name!!!
@@timallbritton3716 I wasn't referring to a coil issue when speaking of vapour lock. He said his mower would die after it got hot.
Usually vapour lock causes an engine to shut down after 10-15mins
Finally! If you can't understand this video, take your small engine to a shop. This explained it better than any manual or video I have seen. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I watched your video, checked my coil and found out it was a ground issue. Without your help, I would of ordered a new coil when I didn't need it. I do appreciate your video..
It really amazes me that backyard mechanics still don't know how to use a voltmeter. I have a very close friend he's very good at fixing things but you give him a voltmeter you would have thought you just asked him to cure cancer. After buying my first one back in the '80s I had good friends of mine that were mechanics and they showed me how to use it. I also fortunate that has a brother-in-law who's a electrician and he had showed me things that my mechanic friends did not know.
Now you go to today I have voltmeters all over my house. Every time for the longest if I saw a good deal on one that did something different than the ones I had I went right out and picked it up.
I enjoyed watching you diagnose these coils. I have watched several of your videos and enjoyed them all.
Thanks for watching!
I had searched for a clear concise explanation on how to test a mower coil. This was excellent. Thank you for explaining this so just about everyone can understand!
You did a very good job on this video. Really helped a lot. The impressive thing was being honest at the end by placing all the old parts in a bag and back to the customer. Again great job.
That's normal practice, prevents the customer from saying they were charged for parts that either weren't replaced, or were replaced with used units
I've watched dozens of coil testing videos over the past two days. all promising to show details on coil testing and none of them were informative... Until THIS ONE!!!! Thank you!!!
I just found you on You Tube. Your teaching skills through detail description with video is awesome..Thank you, I enjoyed learning.
Thanks for watching!
I liked this demonstration. Got right to it and explained it in detail. Now I can go check mine out. I think this is my problem too.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent! I wish more TH-camrs would be as concise and to the point as you are. I just subscribed. :)
A note: It appears that some of the aftermarket coils, and in fact the coils on my John Deere (Kawasaki) mower have the kill switch terminal connected internally to the primary, rather than the secondary. This results in an Open Loop (infinite resistance, or 0.L. on the meter screen)... yet the coil is good.
Grounding the primary or the secondary will kill the spark, so either side can be used by the manufacturer. If the secondary is connected to the kill terminal, you'll get the same reading you get when you read from the plug wire to frame ground. The plug wire will have no, or very low resistance when you check ohms to the kill terminal. But again, if they made the coil such that the kill lug grounds the primary, there will be no connection at all (open loop) to the frame or the plug wire.
Normally only one coil fails and the Right coil was obviously bad. So... it's possible that these coils had primary connected kill switches, and the Left one was okay. B to C or B to A should be totally open on a primary kill switch lug... they're making these things both ways... It's best to change both of them anyway, so it's good the customer got a fresh set of coils. :)
another way to rip us off
Tank you Sir for your information , professionalism and the lack of buckteeth and stupidity. You are Greatly appreciated. Sincerely
Russell
You produce the most uninformative videos I have seen your no nonsense professional attitude is great live long go far
Thanks for showing us all on coil testing. This is something that will make someone smile when the mower fires up to life. Nice work fella too.
7:23 7:23 🎉😢😮😅THANK YOU
@@mauriceherbstritt5336 Thank you Sir.
Nice videos buddy! Truly you are changing peoples life’s by sharing your knowledge. Thank you
When measuring the coil off an engine that dies when it warms up, I use a heat gun to see if things change as the coil gets hot. I have found a number of coils on mowers, chainsaws and weedeaters that will open up after they warm up. When in doubt, replace the coil. They are responsible for many intermittent problems after a few years of operation.
Yea heatsoak is a strange issue, and effects coils differently. That's a very good point, thanks for sharing!
How about cold weather?
Well done. No chatter. Right to the point. I was wondering if the tolerance is pretty much standard for engines of a certain hp. If they are, you don't have to look around for the manual every time you're working, say,on a Briggs 17 to 24 hp. For example, if you're setting valve gaps, after a while you realize that if. you're dealing with an ordinary engine type, you don't have to look up the settings every time. You sort of know.
It is ok to use this tolerance as a guide but if it is available it is always good to check it to the manufacturers specifications.
I've found that as You mentioned, all small engine Coils test out this way, even little 2 Stroke Weed Eater Motors, great Video for the DIY Guys, thanks for sharing! 👍🤠
The first 5 min is the best video on TH-cam. No one said hey just unplug the coil to test it.
Yeah usually when there's no spark it's just a bad safety switch and people spend all kinds of money replacing coils for nothing!
Just trying to help!
@@EliminatorPerformance Good point!
Been there and done that. Seat Safety Interlock sent me on a wild goose chase.
Very well executed EP! I know this is an older video, but the information is invaluable to the home DIY'er. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks for watching!
Great diagnosis. It’s always a good idea to test the meter and leads before testing the component first though. By just touching the leads together first you should get 0 ohms. Just in case you have selected the wrong range or have a faulty lead on the meter or have one of the leads plugged into the wrong socket of the meter.
A very good point tony thanks.
How often do tje coils go bad
thanks great info helped one person with his mower and now I am over run with mowers and garden tillers
I hear ya on that Steve, thanks for watching!
At least Kawasaki is very good about giving you full specs on everything in their service manuals, including resistance readings on all relevant electrical components. Onan was also good about giving good specs in the service manual too. Tecumseh was probably the worst about giving you all the needed info.
We downloaded a Tecumseh technicians manual on line that gives us just about everything we need to know about specifications on Techumseh engines.
Thank you i had same problem , solved by watching your video. very nicely explained.
Great video buddy! Thanks for the great information especially how to find the resistance in on the internet super helpful to the point very well explained you got a new subscriber buddy God bless you and yours!
Thanks for watching Mark!
Another great video by EP ..very knowledgeable easy to understand. Jake breaks it down so easy. EP has got me through some big jobs. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Hello do the coils have to be off the engine? Or can they be tested with them on. Thanks
Unplug the kill wire and turn over the engine, if it has spark, than it's not your coils!
@@EliminatorPerformance ohh ok. Well before I got you response I tested my “right” coil and it had the same results as your did on your “Left” one. From the “Kill” to the “Base”
Clear and crisp presentation ! 👍
New subscriber here ,very thorough and very informative video thank you for your time in posting your knowledge.
Thanks for watching Mark!
@@EliminatorPerformance no problem I've got two machines that don't run and if I go through your video's I'm thinking they will be ,thanks again
had a no start on a similar motor. This wasnt my problem but removing the kill wire to test was a good tip. I think my issue was rust on the coils. I removed them, cleaned, and reset the gap to the flywheel and got spark. Thanks
@4:20 Good comment about the plug connector. I just had that very problem on my weed wacker. I was happy when I found out I didn't have to buy a coil, which may not have been worth it for my old Echo.
you made a great video, you showed the setting and what the reading should be on the om meter a lot of them dont
Thanks for watching!
This dude's videos kick azz... great stuff.
Thank you!
Your on a different level sir. Taryl and Steve are awesome, Mick is tryin a wee bit to hard, Donnie Boy well tbo imo is a self absorbed cry baby, and you send it straight and harshly to the point, except in a good harsh kinda way. Hard to explain but easily in my top 3 yt favs. Keep it up bud. Zippo and mower doc I'll have words for you guys soon I'm sure just ain't watched enuff yet but so far so good. Lol
Thanks for the kind words!
Thats what you get into letting goid stuff setting in a field good job
Thanks for sharing. Only thing I would add for your viewers that the positive red tester lead always used for the spark plug connectors.
Thanks for watching!
I have the same engine Kawasaki in a Husqvarna tractor mower. My first diagnosis was no spark. But I was wrong. I took a test light n placed it in spark plug cap and other end on spark plug(still in engine). Turned over engine and when I looked at plug there was a spark while holding it close to plug. Then with engine switched on I heard a small noise( sizzle). Realized sound was coming from bottom of carbaretor. Then cleaned plug in on solenoid. Still heard noise. Then tapped it gently with screwdriver and heard a click. Engine cranked up. I cut grass with mower for an hour. No issues. Just be sure there is actually no spark b4 buying a coil. I have been told they rarely go bad in pairs. Usually just one goes bad. Great video but I’m certainly a novice on a volt meter. Both mine checked bad but obviously my skills are not where they should be on the volt meter.
Very well explained. Keep the videos coming
GREAT VIDEO!!!!! I LEARNED SOMETHING TODAY! Thanks!!!!!!
the best way to check a lawn mower spark is to remove spark plug ask someone to hold the spark plug while it is plugged into the coil and then crank , the higher the jump and the louder your laugh the better your coil works
+roger white
- GREAT IDEA!!! Next time I test a Coil, I'm gonna ask you to hold it! LOL
Hahahahahaha
Yea my20 year son let me know b€£*h we got spark hahahaha
My Wife Did NOT Think That Was Funny !!!
Don't Ask Me To Go Into Detail Concerning Why !! LMAO !! 😂
Lol!
My ride-on has the same FH531V v-twin. It still runs but it's been progressively running rougher on each use and I found the spark is intermittent on both plugs. What would you know, it's got the same issue where both ignition coils are out of spec! I've used the mower every single year since purchase and so it would seem they've just gone bad with age.
Thank you for helping me get my mower going, my yard looks like hell but not for long.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, this one is a keeper
Nothing better than the sound of an engine starting after working on it. Nice work!
Very Very good video, Thanks for including the coil air gap!. Dad used to stick a match book between magnet and coil, probabley learned it from a sage mower buff. Would this be a feasable method for adjustment? Please suggest
Business card is acceptable, they're usually 0.010"-0.012" which is fine on most mowers
This is very useful video....Appreciate your video😊
Dude! y our the man! I followed your instructions and bam! Exactly that.... thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for video keep people from getting rip off
Very good video; informative and appreciated
Thanks for watching David!
Good video. Lot's of information. When is fixing not worth the parts and service? I guess when you don't have the money to buy a new one.
Fixing is not worth it when the labour and parts will cost more than 60% of the replacement cost of the unit. Additionally, if it is a push or self propelled mower not worth repair if the deck is rotting out and you can not get a decent deck for a cheap price used.
Well done. I am pleased you showed us the test procedure. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Precise info., easy to understand, thank you!
Subscribed, excellent video!
Easy to understand, good video.
Thanks for watching!
Thankyou, for this very valuable lesson.
Excellent video. Thank you so much. Keep up the great job!
Thanks for watching!
can you have spark and still have a coil issue? I have Fc540v kawasaki that died but throws spark but will not start and blows flames out carb. key isn’t sheared and magnet hits last part of coil at tdc. all i’ve got left is the coil or valves messed up but I did check valve lash and it’s fine .006. Tried replacing the ignition module aka ignitor and still won’t start. my coil test says plug end to base is within specs at 11,300 but kill to base I can’t figure a reading based on specs calling for 60-100 and the best i can get is 0.7 on the 200 ohm setting. I tried pulling what you called kill wire that goes to the ignition module but then I have no spark at all.
Thanks for sharing from Australia
Very good explanation
excellent vid. very helpful
Thanks for watching!
That's a heavy bill for a lawn tractor. Could almost buy a new one for the parts and labor.
Great Great Video.
What about 2 stroke coils. I'm having a real.problem lately with Stihl and now a shindaiwa blower. Weaker No Spark
I just acquired a long neglected John Deere tractor that had a list of problems and a longer list of new part requirements. This unit had sat for an extended time also and had mice nests under the engine cover. They chewed up the plug wire at the coil, but not enough to make it unusable. Looking at the stacked laminations, one is becoming distorted by rust stack. The bolts that atttach these coils to the block look like they'll snap completely if any attempt is made to remove them......
Thanks for taking the time to make the video and sharing the knowledge with others. Very informative and to the point. Liked and following.
Also curious how much everything wound up costing the customer after ordering parts and labor?
Thanks for watching, and I forget, I think it was like $320 Canadian. But he's still using the mower to this day, without issues!
Great video with easy to understand info. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Steven!
Wow man great informative video - thanks
Thank you!
Great video 📹thanks, simply the best, great guy clear and concise. 👍👌📹👌👌👌👌👌👌Liam kilkee clare ireland 🍀. Muchas gracias amigo.
Awesome video THANK YOU........I had a lawnguy explain to me about the coil.......but he was in a hurry so I really couldnt keep up with it........having said that.....my question is I have a twin briggs and stratton 21hp mower , he told me that if lets say the right cylinder doesnt start and run (without the plug in ) that it would
be the opposite cylinder with the defective coil........did I missunderstand ??? Thank you again !!!
Yea so fire up your machine, and unplug 1 side. If it runs worse, you know that cylinder had spark. If it runs the same, and there's no change, you know that cylinder didn't have spark.
@@EliminatorPerformance aahhhhhhhhh ok now its coming together.....i know its not rocket science..........thank you so much......very MUCH appreciated....
@@mundlkalli4396 anytime, cheers!
It might be more helpful to call B "Base" the "ground". Since it is electrically grounded to the engine. Likewise the "kill wire" is actually the primary coil lead.
Very clear thank you for your video
Super opis sprawdzenia cewki. Pozdrowienia z Polski!!!
Great explanation, many thanks from across the pond 👍
Thanks for watching!
i worked on atv's years ago and never could get one coil to read within specks according to their manual but they all worked. so i am not setting much stock in testing a coil this way.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge very informative, it
inspired me to focus more making electrical video
Thanks for watching!
nice job,clear explanation!
Thanks for watching!
Great Video, wish I would have saw it last week. Wondering if anyone can help or maybe you have a condenser bench test video as I am a little foggy on that. I have a Kohler 8hp k181. Replaced coil, still no spark. I am thinking I probably should have ordered a condenser also. By the way only way for me to find parts is EBay, straight from China of course so just hoping they are good. Anyway in Checking the condenser, I am on 20k ohm setting, Red probe to wire, black too body, meter just stays at 1, should I not see a certain ohm reading meaning i am charging the condenser? Then I would check DC volts, mv I would think? Or do I just want it too hold a charge? Thanks for any help.
Nice info! Thanks. That looks like the Kawasaki on the John Deere LX series.
Thanks for sharing important information.
Thanks for the test numbers for the coils. Had been a lot of years since i had to. Test a coil. Very helpful. One thing to note is that a coil wire to base and the primary winding that is infinite is the some MTD mowers have a built in resistor in the spark plug end of the secondary wire. Mine had a open in that resistor. Eliminated it and the mower runs. Thanks again.
Good information. It's an easy test to do.
Thanks for watching!
How do you test an opposed V-Twin Briggs & Stratton engine coil? Two plug wires on one coil.
How about testing the new Honda 4 terminal coil like on the GX 630 and GX 690 ?????
Thanks for the info! Keep it up.
Thanks for watching!
I got a brand new champion generator and is has no spark when its cold out.
Ran for 3 hours and wouldn't start again. Brought it inside. Gapped the coil, cleaned flywheel and magnet. Got great spark.
Died in 3 seconds in the cold air.
Common for these cheap coils?
Ever tried adding shielding up to the coil ends to prevent eddies?
Hey love the video! I have replaced my ignition coil however when I short the coil it should turn off the engine. (Kill switch) but it doesn’t. I tested the kill switch and it’s giving ground to the coil. How would I test the coil? Any help would be great.
If the wire from the coil to the kill switch is connected then you should be able to kill the engine when throttling down unless the kill switch wire to the coil has a break in it. Use an ohm meter on ohms for continuity to check that kill wire only if it has continuity it should work. You may not be getting a good ground when you ground it out or the stand ups that the coil mounts to are badly corroded and you are losing your ground there. We always polish with a fine emery paper the stand ups prior to mounting a new coil. Hope this helps out, sorry so late since we have so many comments and rarely go back to answer new ones hope you understand. By the way we only need 200 more views to hit a million which would be our first million view video. Appreciate passing on the word about EP and this video, tell them to hit the subscribe button also and thanks again for commenting.
If you've got compression, spark and fuel and it still won't run, check that the flywheel didn't break the keyway and rotate, putting the engine timing way off.
Great tip but if your engine has a decompression release you can not get a proper reading you need to perform a blow down test
Great video well done.... I loved 🤗
Thanks for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks for the Teaching!!👍❤✌
Hi can you tell me if the coils read 1794 are good I don’t have any spark is a 22hp engine predator thank you
Thanks that is very good information. Thank you very much.
Thanks for watching!
In Great vid, You said you googled the FP531V engine code but the vid displays FH531V-BS06. Quite certain not much differance but where did you get the engine code?
Great video thanks🤠👍
I have two of those solenoids sitting in my yard on an older mower... I'd better go pull them off and hold on to them 😁
Brilliant. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. That was so helpful.
Can you tell me if it's possible to test the little Igniter module that's inline on the kill wire on a Kawasaki FC400 engine ? I have a weak, almost non existent spark.
This is what I was looking for. Page 37 of this Kawasaki FC400V workshop manual.
www.encoreequipment.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/14hp_FC420V1.pdf
I've heard you can't test them, simply replace.
@@EliminatorPerformance - In that link on p37 is a test for what they call a "Control Unit". It does look like it could be an Igniter. Its got 2 Ohms readings. Same points but reversed polarity.
I've also come across some people who've fixed a bad spark by cleaning up the earth contact for the igniter. Sounds promising.
The two Ohms readings given in that manual for testing the igniter are 60-100 and 400-600. On the 60-100 test, I'm getting about 800. The other one, I'm getting about 580. On the strength of that I've ordered a new igniter.
Thanks for helping me go in the right direction with this.
Brilliant video so easy to follow, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Have you ever heard of a coil starting and running fine, and then after a few minutes, start hearing a random miss (it's a one cylinder mower), than after a few more minutes it will stop running while cutting. Won't start back up immediately, but after waiting about a minute or two, it will start and run fine, and then repeat the same thing. Could it be doing this when it gets hot and fails? I have replaced the carburetor, auto choke assembly, and gaskets, removed and thoroughly cleaned out the tank and filter with detergent and water, dried thoroughly. I only run ethanol free gasoline and I always filter it through a funnel with a fresh each time conical coffee filter, and there is no water in it. It was doing this same thing before the carburetor replacement too. Sometimes, before dying, it starts to just run real rough and is trying to die, and if I can quick enough jiggle the governor rod, it will smooth out and run a few more minutes, but will do the whole process again. I think I need a new thermowax unit because it keeps the choke plate open always but I don't see how this would make it die once warmed up. I may have two simultaneous unrelated problems. It is a Honda GCV160 engine. I would replace the coil and see but they cost $60!
Very cool 😎 👌🏻 👍🏼
great video thanks man
That was a great video!!
Thanks for watching!
I appreciate your testing, however it is possible you mis-diagnosed a faulty coil from the B-C connection. When looking for a reading from 10-30K ohms, you cannot use the 20K ohm scale. It must be reset to the next higher range.
I did end up testing at higher reading, I just didn't get that part on camera! Both these coils were shot!
How can the timing be safely tested for an unknown (No markings and don't know where it came from.) coil? I know the length of the HV wire does affect it, with being shorter having a more advanced timing. You can have a dozen unmarked coils that look identical, but will fire at a different time.
Great video. Thank you very much!!!
FREE! Repair manual, Nice...
Thanks for watching!
I think my Kawasaki v twin needs coils it idles fine but starts sputtering and almost dies out when I give it any throttle I just wanted to get your opinion on what could be causing the problem before I buy new coils it’s got 2300+ hours and I don’t know when the coils were last replaced or if they were ever replaced and it’s running on both cylinders
Could be the carburetor gummed up?
@@EliminatorPerformance possibly I hope so anyways cause coils aren’t very cheap and thanks for the suggestion I really appreciate it