Ignition Coil Testing with ohm meter for small engines - Briggs-Tecumseh - How To ~ UPDATED
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- I Tested 100 Coils so YOU Don't Have to!
Briggs, Tecumseh, Honda, Kohler & a few 2 strokers
Ignition Coil Testing for small engines - How To
Using an Ohm Meter to test coils.
Demonstration on how to use ohm meter and setup of coils.
Test a chainsaw coil as well
Works for all small engines
Original Video (my 1st video on the subject) • Ignition Coil Testing ...
FIX YOUR ENGINE COIL ~ Why Cleaning Small Engine Magneto Coils Makes a Difference • FIX YOUR ENGINE COIL ~...
Intro 00:00
Lesson-1A Definitions Tips & Tricks 1:13
Lesson-1B What to Measure 7:41
Briggs Flat Head Engines 14:40
Briggs OHV E Series Engines 21:39
Tecumseh Engines 26:41
Honda Engines 31:29
Kohler Engines 34:35
Misc.2 Strokers 39:33
Closing Statements Info 43:38
How To Modern Electronic Ignition Coil From Briggs EX Series on an OLD BRIGGS 12-18HP POINTS ENGINE - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![เปิดบ้านสุดหรู "เเจ็ค the ghost" ลั่นถ้าป๋องกพลลำบากผมเลี้ยงเอง!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1xbW4vULqGc/mqdefault.jpg)
Go back to the beginning around 1min, I describe how to find the model and search for engine codes ONLY, not the model of a pump or other machine,
I cant research every machine for people and make videos on how to. Sorry, that's your job, I arm people with the info to do it!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for breaking it down in chapters making it easier to find the info I needed.
Thanx for commenting and watching! I hope this helped!
Thank you for the excellent video. I quite often clean the flywheel and coils at the beginning of every season but have never tested them. Didn't know how to check them, now I do and will.
Thanks for watching!! I hope this helps
svaka čast na Izlaganju na opisivanju provere bombine.
Thanks for the explanations and demonstrations Arch 👍
This video is best of the best about testing two stroke ignition coils! It was very helpfull for me to solve problem on Husqvarna 141. Thanks a lot and God bless You! :D
Thank you, This video does focus more on 4 stroke coils but the basics are there.
In the future I want to do one that focuses on the 2 stroke coils, including Lawnboy and smaller blowers and weedwackers!
Thanks again for watching!
Covers many variables and helps for troubleshooting. Great video!
Thanx Ripster,,,still learning how to make vids!
Sir first of all I just want to thank you for no arrogance just downright genuine and it's appreciated very much explained and courteous and professional you sound to enjoy teaching what you know and we appreciate it kindness empathy good human being God bless you I enjoyed it and I learned a lot
Thank you very much, nice to hear and welcome to the channel!
I'm still learning how to present Videos.
For about a year now I decided to do 2 types of videos; this type is the "how to" and the other is more relaxed project based.
Best video I've seen on coils for small engines.
Thanks David,, this was one of my first descent videos
its not easy making videos!
Arch, your video was very informative. Thank you.
Thanks, glad it helped some!! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video!
I have a Honda 1200W 71CC 2-Stroke generator, for which I have no manual and can't find one. However, the Pulsar PG-1202S generator is not only a very close match, it's almost identical.
The Spark Plug is not getting any spark. Even though I tested the plug with an ohm meter, I decided to buy a new one, (with a resistor) just in case the old one may have a crack somewhere. Neither plug will produce a spark (grounding the plug to the engine and pulling the cord), and I've since found out how to test and discern if the problem is in the magneto/"High Voltage Set", or in the wiring.
I'll be doing that test soon but I want to say, it's interesting to note that none of the coils you've covered in this video look like the magneto or the High Voltage Set assembly that I'm dealing with. In as many that you've covered, this fact surprises me!
I don't think I can post a link to the Pulsar PG-1202S or to the PDF manual in this comment section but I'll try. Maybe you can take a quick look at it and tell me a way I can test that system.
Even though the manual for the Pulsar has a section covering the different components, (a parts list, as it were), the parts are drawings and not very good drawings.
The page 31 covers the "Ignition System Assy" and the magneto is so poorly drawn as to be hardly recognizable. The only part I can recognize and see in the engine is what Pulsar calls the "High Voltage Set" (Part #PG1202S-G-04) as drawn in page 31. They ID the "Magneto" as part #PG1202S-G-02.
I'm trying to find that magneto section in the engine but these hand drawings don't show where it would be located and or how to get to it. I'm sure I can find and remove it but before I go through all that, I'd like to test to determine if the problem is in the wiring or the ignition first.
Thanks again,
Rich
Another Great Video... Thank You so much for making this Great Video...
Thanx John,,,,I', still learning how to make vids!!
It can be fun!
Thank you for showing the viewers how to
Great Video Arch, very clear and concise with out the jabberwocky
lol,,, THANKS Don
Best video on testing , thanks
Thanks David!
Very good video Arch just a note on the Honda coils with the screw on plastic boot which i believe you did not have in this video. This boot actually has a built in resistor so you need to unscrew the boot to check directly to the wire. On three occasions this year only the boot needed to be changed since it was measuring over 10k ohms but the coil itself was in specification. Replacing the boot was way less expensive than an entire coil.
Nice,,,,good catch, yea I didn't have any of those coils in this video that I am aware of....Good to Know,,,Thankz again fella's!!!
Hey waystedinashe thanks so much for that insight it's really good to know way to go Man.
Up date bought a meter that read 20 k now get readings of 6.25 .. Thanks again I did subscribe
I kinda figured,, I should have covered that more in the video!!
Glad ya got it sorted
In fact I have a riding lawn mower that quits when it gets hot. Don't understand why but I will be checking a coil now
Coil is getting hot, I would replace it
Just replace the both coils and spark plugs! And take your time and clean all the ports lm the carburetor!
A good hoard pays for itself , especially on parts on made or discontinued these are the most valuable . I like the older machines better than the new ones , they are built better that's why they are still running .
Ahhh Yes,,,,"A Good Hoard Pays for Itself" Luv it!!
As I often say when I need a part, I go out into the Yard,,or as I say,, "My Garden" lol
I luv the old stock,,,,,,,Your Soooo Right!!!
Please what would be good readings for LCT 79cc Red Lion ENGINE-driven Aluminum water pump model 2RlAG-1l? Thank you.
Arch's Garage
1 second ago
Go back to the beginning around 1min, I describe how to find the model and search for engine codes ONLY, not the model of a pump or other machine,
I cant research every machine for people and make videos on how to. Sorry, that's your job, I arm people with the info to do it!
Thanks for watching!
Hey would you mind showing how to check the new style Honda 4 terminal coils on a GX 630 engine ???
That’s what I’m trying to figure out
Thanks
Hey Phillip,,I don't have one currently,sorry
great video
Thanx,,,& thanks for watching!
I have an ignition coil on and MTD 790 trimmer, the primary coil is completely open. It's a Walbro Type MA
Well put it in the Box I have lol!!
Its dead!
what does a heat distortion on the coil wrap tell you? My signal wire enters in that general area where the wrap has separated by a good 1/8" and now I have a signal to ground very high, 365 ohm. My Primary - secondary is normal, 2.75 kOhm.
One of the reasons I did sooo many coils is to show how these do vary quite a bit especially over time and Heat!
I've noticed that heat/time can make small changes that show only in a weak spark or one when intermittently give us trouble!
Another thing I noticed and didn't mention there but in my livestreams is aftermarket coils are a gamble!
Especially when having issues with a factory coil and then going out and buying a knockoff can really confuse us!
Dirt on an air cooled engine can kill a coil!
Not to mention the engine,, things get hot especially on a hot day! Imagine, its cooled by the fan but once the engine stops, basically the temp goes way up for a time and it cooks things!
Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I enjoy watching your videos they are very well done. I recently tested the coil on my Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engine. The readings I got for the three test points were both 4.72 ohms. Is it acceptable to have both numbers be identical?
That's odd, typically no. As we can see through these tests we don't see it. For the secondary that would be too low. Something up to 6 thousand ohms would be what I would want to see.
@@TheNovaJohn Thank you so much for your reply. This is a great channel and you do a great job
Thanx Randy!!
Thankyou for the well explained on how to test ignition coil. But I'm confused about the reading of 10 ohms when I tested one of the coil. Is it right or wrong?
It depends, what coil? Where are you measuring?
Typically if you measure from the metal body to the control, 10 ohms may be fine
I mentioned that you can go to the engine manufacturer (search youtube) model/engine code and find the chart..
Great video. For the price of a new coil, I will just buy one. $25.
My echo needs a little love.
Thanx!!
Hope it works!! Let us know,,
BTW aftermarket coils can be problematic; sometimes they don't configure the timing properly so the engine wont run or fire properly.
If ya run into an issue, there ya go
What is the ohm relationship between coils and spark plugs. If the measured ohm resistance range for 2 cycle mower is between 5k and 10k ohms. The spark plug selected should have a higher heat rating a 4 as opposed to a 7. What Ohm range should I look for when testing coils less than or equal to / greater than or equal to?
Good questions, lets separate your comment; 1st, heat range of plugs.
The heat range selected for 2 stroke will be for a 'Hotter' plug due to the presence of oil in the mix! A Hotter running plug will help to burn off the oil and keep things running smooth longer as apposed to a 4 stroke engine where the gas has no oil in it.
2nd, the plug ohm reading is due to the anti-noise / Radio Frequency (RF) reduction. Its used as a filter to stop any static. Most electrical things today have these restrictions from the FCC.
This has no real bearing on the coil ohms but one could argue that for performance engines it may reduce some spark.
Lastly, the purpose of this video is to show some "Real World" values so what can we conclude?
Its confusing I know and I say in the beginning to check the manufacturers diagnostic sheets on coil specs and tolerance.
In some cases that isn't available so in my view I would bias myself to slightly lower ohm readings!
If you noticed, in some cases the coils get these very low ohm readings that are close to being shorted vs other where the ohms is so high as to be a non connection!
In summery, less than or equal to.
hope that helps, great question!
Maybe you intend cover it eventually, but it is important to know that the coil has to be installed the correct way up, as I found out; It won't fire if it is upside down, I suppose the magnetism has to travel through it in a specific direction.
Yup,, I thought I did and may have somewhere in this video,,not sure.
I did a video on this however. I also showed putting a new designed coil from a little briggs OHV on an old huge 17hp single slug engine with points!
In that video I show and speak about reversing the coil, issues with rust and damage effecting the magnetic field thus causing a no spark condition!
th-cam.com/video/tNQIryTgEbc/w-d-xo.html
Nice job :-)
There is copper in it they can be recycled, either for the steel and or the copper.
Thats what I do with all my stuff,, I give it to Juan my buddy the recycler!!
HI ARCH LOOKING FOR A COIL SEARS 3.5 CLINTON 0013 CANT FIND CAN U HELP
Wow,,,,haven't seen one of those in a while!!! I don't remember what they look like anymore..
Try this link
partmartusa.com/collections/clinton-engine-parts
Hi Arch, I have a coil from a Honda that is reading 12.5 Kohms between all of the points you're showing. Do you think it's hooped?
If its reading that even from the coil metal to the control tab,,,,ohhhh if its still sparking I would be suprised!
Thanx for watchin!
@@TheNovaJohn my pleasure
So when testing a briggs coil do we want more or less ohms from plug wire to ground? I always thought if it showed more ohms it was a better coil.
Like I mentioned in the intro, if we go to the manufacturers site for the coil specs, we see a 'range' of values that are acceptable! So there is No one value.
Now typically less Ohms or resistance, it becomes closer to a short, as in a few ohms we actually have a shorted circuit.
More Ohms, the device becomes closer to an open circuit.
There is a place where too much resistance means too much energy is just lost from the input.
Now if we get closer to the max allowable resistance the coil is becoming out of spec! Below the correct range, once again closer to a short and again below the spec.
We can see in the video how much they can vary!
A lot of these plug wires are carbon core with a carbon impregnated string....start twisting the plug cap and the string breaks leaving you with a carbon track only. I've seen manufacturing defects where the string isn't even present until several mm up inside the plug cable. I'll use an NGK screw on boot after trimming back the cable and verifying the string is present. Will almost never fail at the cap again.
Thanks Jim for the Info! I pinned your comment up at the top!
Wonder how many coils get tossed when the coil itself is fine, and it was the coil wires that went toast? Not sure about the newer coils, but at one time the wires screwed on and under it was a probe the core of the wires made contact with. I've replaced wires before and actually fixed coils. The wire core is the same as in a vehicle, a fiber core, and when they go bad they go high in resistance. Plus, a bad wire can make coils run hot, forces the coil to quit, and in some cases work again once it cools down. Doing coil readings with bad wires can indeed cause many good coils get thrown away even if the wires are glued on, glueing another one in its place could get it going again. I know most people wouldn't do that, and just buy a new coil only to end up worse in some cases with cheap aftermarket parts with crappy wires... Lol. I learned a long time ago the hard way, cheap wires are not even worth the effort, as they can prematurely burn coils out in some cases... this is a fact. Coils are just transformers, and with bad wires it effects induction transfer making them run too hot. Imo, cheap wires create 90 percent of coils going bad in normal conditions.
Great Points!!
Some of these aftermarket coils are NOT Timed properly as well..
Often result in poor performance or wont run at all!
Yes, we can replace the primary wire!
I have don't that and also replaced spark plug end/terminal as well!
Thanks for sharing!
I have a echo pb and the tester I have lights up when I pull the string. But there is no spark at the plug. I have changed the plug enuff to know it's not it. I'm stumped.
If you changed the plug, is it gapped @ .028 thousands?
Have you tried a different plug? you said you changed the plug so I assume you put another in?
Sometimes the ignition coil will spark a plug in Open Air but not when its installed in the engine and under compression.
I have a machine now that seems to be having the same problem but I haven't had time yet to complete the service!
Yes changed plug and coil. Gapped correct. Fired but died first pull. Now it wont do crap. But the test light lights weak. Idk what's up. Both coils tested out great on multi meter. Another head scratcher.
Do you know how to test a Briggs & Stratton opposed twin engine coil? It has both spark plug wires on one coil.
Short answer is No but the principle is the same as any briggs, its just that they have one primary control and coil and two secondary and they should match very closely in OHMs.
Was just chatting about these engines in my lives recently.
I have one outside maybe 2 in my deep storage! Not sure what gonna happen to the machines they are on but these are mine, keepers and really don't wanna sell them!
@@TheNovaJohn only way I get a reading is by putting red wire from multi meter on one of the spark plug leads and the black wire on the other spark plug lead.
That might make sense, I cant confirm this off the top of my head but a diode may be used so only one plug will fire at a time!
If that's the case then you would see what your testing!!
Is it possible for a trigger module to work of the other module that is on a cylinder that is not firing
Thru the kill wire that they are both connected to thanks tom
Let me clarify; you say "trigger module" that little tang is the control wire, if it is grounded to the chassis via some kind of "Kill Switch" the coil wont fire.
If more than one coil is mounted on an engine, the point of control is a switch lets say on the console, when the switch is closed creating a path to ground, any coil no matter how many will be grounded to that point and wont fire.
One coils control wire is unto itself. If that coil is bad lets say that control tang is open as if its not connected (burned out) it wont effect anything, conversely if that control tang is shorted to itself as in the body of the coil, it cant fire and it wont effect any other coil.
If trigger module means something else, please clarify.
I hope that helps Thomas
Thanks for watching!
Kohler 22 hp 2 cylinder with Coils kill switch terminal wired jumper Together then to ignition switch and safety switch’s
Strange thing it’s running on 1 cylinder if you remove the jumper wire from either coil the
Engine dies
If you remove spark plug wire from cylinder #1 engine stops
If you remove spark plug wire
From cylinder #2 no change at all
From your video I assume the tang switch terminal when open circuit engine runs vs short to ground no ignition engine stops
Combined with all the safety switches confusing everything
My mistake correction if you remove the switch wire from the coil that is on the running cylinder cylinder #1 the engine continues to run
If you remove the switch wire from cylinder #2 the engine will
Stop? Thanks for any info Tom
Ok 1st statement is OK,,,no ground or control wire on running cylinder engine runs because that wire is the kill/ground.
Statement 2, is odd. Suggestion is to swap the coils and test them with the ohm meter after you remove them, test the 2 wires that control the coils after you remove the coils.
Wanted to let you know the outcome
Tested the coils.
coil frame to battery ground good
Tested kill wire continuity good
Checked kill wire for shorts to ground when ignition is on no short to ground
Checked kill wire to ground when switch is off grounded
Tested coils
cylinder #1
10,000 ohms secondary to ground
200 ohms tang to ground
Cylinder #2
8000 ohms secondary to ground
450ohms tang to ground
Replaced coil for cylinder #1
Aftermarket 8500 ohms to ground secondary
And 160 ohms tang to ground
Still not running then back fire
Aha
Remove flywheel
Found sheared flywheel key
Replacement key and reassembled
Running fine
Found # 2 cylinder 1coil screw
Striped and would not tighten
Well coil then moved enough
To hit flywheel slightly and likely
Sheared the flywheel key
Replaced coil screws
Thanks for your info and time tom
you are showing us the actual readings. but I don't know what the readings should be.. assume the good coils will have a lower reading
yes,, typically they are lower when new. As I mention in the tutorial, if you look up your engine you will find the coil specs, the manufacturer witll give a range of what they consider good. That is usually fairly wide. Keep in mind a thousand ohm difference may not be much but a mega ohm would be way too high
Can a coil be exchanged with a different model coil in need of help!😢
Yes, as long as the bolt pattern is the same and it can be moved to achieve the proper gap.
There are some instances however where the direction of magnetism is different.
I have a Briggs & Stratton 11.5hp riding mower that is measuring 10.5K all the way around. My interpretation is that is too high and a new coil is needed. Thoughts?
Yes, if its measuring this at the points I show then its suspect. They are cheap
@@TheNovaJohn Thanks!! I have one on order!! It was measuring 10.5k when pos is to the plug, and regardless of either connection point or the kill connecter - 10.5k all the way around. Only two years old.
I have two new briggs coils and they both work but I get no reading from the secondary from either one.. I have used two new ohm meters.. Both read nothing. From the tab to groundI have a reading. Just none from the secondary. I use Klein meters and read ohms on other items fine.. Confused!
Well, as we know, if the coil is working then there is a number or value its just that your not reading it..
Couple of thoughts, set the meter to auto range or change the range of the meter.
@@TheNovaJohn The only reading is ground tab to base and I do get 1.5 on the fluke and 3 on the klein.. Do I have to be at 20k to get any reading.. If so I will buy one with that option. The Klein is at auto and got 3. Just on ground but still nothing from sec to base or tab. Thanks for your help
Tôi đang cần một ic bộ đánh lửa trong video loại có kích
I have a 1992 MTD briggs opposed 18HP twin power. I was cutting with it and it died all of a sudden. I got it running but it barely pulled me to garage. When I throttle down it runs but when I Throttle up it dies like it's flooding. I've rebuilt the carb and fuel pump and still same issue. Could this be a bad coil?
Ohh it could,,,its always back to basics isn't it!
Things get old, after much faithful use it needs attention...
If one coil is bad then replace both at this point..
While its running, pull one coil/plug wire at a time..This info might prove useful.
Check the plugs, clean them up if they need it and re-test.
Often a coil will run until its hot, so you may need a cold then hot plug and coil test.
Also check the head bolts for tight and look for head gasket leaks, do a compression test cold and hot as well.
Simple stuff 1st.
@@TheNovaJohn Thanks. Yeah I pulled the plug one at time and died both times so I know it's getting spark at both plugs. One plug was real nasty when I took it out so brother thinks broke ring but I"m not so sure. It just died about 25 mins in on cutting working perfect to died all at once and only ran on idle from then on throttle up it dies but idle it sounds great. Not sure a coil would do this but 31 years old I guess 20 bucks to replace is next step to try.
Check the compression 1st
@@TheNovaJohn I took the coil off cleaned it and while it was off I took plugs out again and turned the engine flywheel with my hand and put my thumb over each plug hole and sure enough the one I suspected was bad did nothing while the good side sucked my thumb in and blew it out a bit. So I took the head off and the exhuast valve was stuck open and I simply pulled it out so now I have to tear the whole engine down.
Sometimes ya can spray lube the valve stem and move it around/up and down until it frees up.
Or take it out clean it up and lap it back in
Missing an electrical/electronic diagram inside of the coil to understand more how is functionalitty. Inside tere is an Darlington transistor. resitor. other small coil, etc. The two transistor can make a scrambled information.
That would be a different video i think. Generally people don't have experience with electronics enough to consider those details. It would be good to make a separate video just focusing on that.
I bough new kohler igniters and both are 2.5/13 and 2.5/15. I assume these are bad off the lot! Your thoughts?
where are you reading this, what points. and what unit of measure?
@@TheNovaJohn 2.5 M ohm body to spade ; 15 K ohm Body to Wire.Did it exactly how you did it ;)
@@MLDIYSH does seem high doesn't it! Have you tried them? Are they aftermarket knockoffs?
@@TheNovaJohn no Sir, the Are genuine kohler ignitor coils 32-584-06-S. I’m thinking of returning them b/c my machine won’t run.
@@TheNovaJohn just received my replacements and both are 6 M ohms body to spade. One is 77k ohms body to wire and the other is 12.5k ohms body to wire. Man 🤷🏻♂️ what to believe anymore lol but I know it’s bad. Wish upload a pic b/c it’s hard to believe without a pic.
My Briggs coil measures 2.76K Ohms from the spark plug wire to the tab. And no continuity from spark plug wire to ground. And 00.00 Ohms from the the tab to ground. Do I need a new coil?
Yes and no,,,,I mentioned that a coil may run, run poorly, the engine may run fine and after everything gets hot it may shut off.
But if you get spark and the resistance is in spec then the issue is not the coil....
Its like a puzzle, when an engine isn't running or not running well, yea have to rule out as much as possible.
Didn't have any Tecumseh under the flywheel coils?
Sure but this video was about electronic coils.
I have a few videos on my channel about Tecumseh points engines and setup-troubleshooting
So what is the correct RANGE of resistance for the coils at both test points? Showing and telling us what the reading is doesn't tell us much if we don't know what the correct range is. We are flying blind here without context. It's a very nicely done video, but missing that critical info.
Guess ya didn't watch the 1st part.
Hello.
I have a small chainsaw mc culloch.
Is no spark .
I order one new coil.
No spark .
Every thing is clean.
I order another one aftermarket.
No spark??
My guess is something is wrong with the control wire/switch. Disconnect the control wire from the coil. Make sure you installed the coil properly, you need an air gap of .010 - .015.
Lets us know how ya make out!
Hello again and thanks for your reply.
I already disconnected the kill switch.
I measured now the Coils.
NEW AFTERMARKET COIL .PRIMARY NO RESISTANCE. SECONDARY 5,87KΩ.
SECOND NEW AFTERMARKET COIL.
PRIMARY 7,38KΩ SECONDARY1,42 KΩ
THE COIL THAT STOPPED WORKING ,PRIMARY NO RESISTANCE, SECONDARY 2,41KΩ
IS MC CULLOCH CS35 ,SMALLL CHAINSAW.
I CLEAN ALL AREAS ,REGAP.....
IS NOT WORKING.
HELP ME PLEASE 🙏
WOW,,, that SUX,,,,my guess is try yet one more coil,,,your on the right track, some of these chiney parts have issues and ya can get a bad run of luck,,Lord knows I've been through that!
Keep tryin, maybe next one is the charm!!
Let us know!!! Good luck!
Thanks a lot Arch .
For a small engine (chainsaw) how much kΩ must be primary and secondary?
Regards Lazaros
it would be a guess but secondary something under 6k should be ok, much lower on the primary side, around 1k or so or less
You can't check the chip on the primary side. If it don't spark junk it, simple
What if im getting a beep on ohm resistance on primary and secondary wire not the spark wire
The spark wire is the secondary
The beep is usually the lowest scale on most meters so try a higher scale.
Generally if you hear a beep its because the connection being measured has very low resistance; like a wired direct connection.
My guess is the coil is bad but you haven't given me enough info
@@TheNovaJohn okay I have a green wire and one black wire for ground green wire goes to CDI box multimeter on black and green wire have a continuity beep almost like it's grounding itself out to me it seems like it's bad and I'm not dealing with the spark wire spark wire test came out good but no spark
I don't know what engine/machine your working on? See if ya can get the manual on that engine whatever it is..
I really cant diagnose this way!
@@TheNovaJohn I can't it's unavailable the green wire is a positive wire though
Lemme give this some thought!
I want to set up a program called 'Discord'
Ya can download the app, then go to my discord channel and post pics,comments and even live video.
that's coming soon
Best disposal method for bad coils? Recycle ?
There's copper in them so....
i would burn them lol
I have replace my ignition module and put in new spark plug ,yet it's not sparking
Try removing that small wire I call the 'control wire' from the coil itself and re-test
Oliomac brush cutter primary coil showing 5.6 ohm
Secondary not showing any what results
Most Likely a bad connection at the plug end or the coil is burned out!
Thank you sir
@@nageshnag4159 Thanks for watching!
Xlnt breakdown!
Thanx!!!
I forgot to mention in my first post, that I did not have any spark. thus the reason for checking the coil. I used another ohm meter and got 2.75 from the tab ground this time. But still get zero ohms from tab to ground.
read what ya wrote,,, not sure what you mean
Check your meter to make sure its ok..
check you scale, what scale is the meter in?
Your on the right track,,,,good luck!
@@TheNovaJohn The VOM I was using was malfunctioning on the Ohms scale. I have another meter a(Fluke) that I checked the coil with the second time. I cleaned up the coil connections and installed the coil again and left the tab wire off. This time I got spark from the plug. The motor started after installing the spark plug. The problem now is, the motor won't shut off when turning the key switch to off position.
Have to choke it to shut the engine off.
The wire to the tab on the coil when it is disconnected from the coil isn't shorted to grounded. I bought the mower in 1989-90 new. Do you any idea where I can find a schematic wiring diagram for it?
@@smitty2721 Great to hear,,,,,well like I said,, its a puzzle,,, now you know the switch is an issue..
@@TheNovaJohn The meter was on 20k scale. I see why you didn't understand my message. It doesn't make since to me either now. Sorry about that. Blame it on the meter.
@@smitty2721 lol,,,you know the saying,,,"a poor mechanic always blames his tools" hehehehe,,,
Hey, it happens, tools break, mine is like a fluke knockoff, the switch is a little flaky and the leads do need to be replaced. But I know thats the case, so I keep after it.
Do you mean primary and ground and secondary and ground?
I think so,,,I haven't watch it in a while,,, the wire that connects to the plug is a secondary winding connection. Often called the 'High Tension lead'
Like many tubers, we misspeak!
i have replaced 1 coil in my life time spent many many yrs small eng and out boards. i am 88 ????
That's good, as you can see there are many bad and questionable coils here and from different manufacturers and years/models.
I didn't go through all I have either.
I part out many machines and save these in a pile over time. Occasionally I grab the nicer ones. These have hard lives and they go for may reasons, heat, filth, rust from sitting outside in yuk, owner abuse, you name it!
Thanks for watching!
I need Briggs carburetor repair parts
HIPA
www.hipastore.com/
3.7 what? Ohms? K ohms? What a good resistance?
I mention this several times so eventually I repeat myself to where I shorten the comment.
3.7 - 4 k ohms is pretty good for a Briggs coil
@@TheNovaJohn Thanks !
Mine is 78 k ohms. I think its bad.
Cheers !
@@oversoul3482 Yea,, wow that's high for sure
Briggs 7.25 series, coil is reading 9.5 ohms across the board, no difference between legs.
Chuck it,,,,,some of these run when cold,,,I should find one and test it cold then heat it with a heat gun and re-test,,,hmmmm I just had one like that but I chucked it,,,,arrgghh
@@TheNovaJohn yeah ran when cold, but heated up spark died, so chucked.
why do save ( bad coils ) that you tested bad
So I could show people and make a video!
I have a snowthrower with a powermore engine. Tiny spark I am going to unscrew the resistor on sparkplug end see if I have spark. Machine has new carburetor new wrong sparkplug so I am guessing home owner failed. I bought it ha ha.
Good,,,,maybe you get a win!!!
Good luck with the project!
Thanks fer watchin!
I took the resistor off it is toro snowthrower with a powermore engine. Has a Crack without has a nice blue spark I guess could say I won
Nice,, usually the resistor is for RF noise suppression.. Not sure if we need that anymore..No one uses radios or TV with antenna.
Pretty sure the P-hub on the back PC.....
I don't understand why my coil went bad on my tiller. It can't be much more than 50 years old. ;-]
Lol,,,,luv it!! very funny,,thanx
So out of all them thousands of coils you did not show 1 single coil that fires 2 plugs. I guess they don't make a single coil that fires 2 cylinders 🤔
As I mentioned, these are the most common coils I see and most will that are out there>
No one single coil can fire 2 plugs. Coils are controlled by the engine timing system. Either a camshaft lobe or in these cases its a magnet that in part control of energizing these coils.
Engines with more than one cylinder are fired at different times. This requires a separate coil.
I have seen some very esoteric engines that will fire other plugs at events that wont produce any power. There is a name for this but I cant remember. Not something we would see in the small engine world of mowers and machines.
Get on with it
huh neet
Hi, You cannot test a electronic coil.Except for the magneto.Not the electronics.
Sure you can, point in fact as I mentioned in the opening of the video; you can go to the manufacturer data/diagnostic sheet and get the values for A,B,C connections in OHMs! & I showed an example.
These are simple tests.
Hi, U can only check for open in coil Unless u take apart electronic mag. To check resistor, and SCR by themselves..
Of course yea, this is an indirect test. We can't fix it either because its potted.
A buddy just came by and during a live show too for a coil.
It was for an older Tecumseh engine. His coil was fried on the electronic side and we could see the open of the circuit. Which is all we need to know really.
.....da..sa....o.k..
Thank you. I have a question. Can this coil be tested using multimeter or with ohm meter only?
Multimeters are OHM meters, if you have a volt meter that does only volts then no..
OHM meters is just a common term but really the correct word is Multimeter because they have multiple settings for multiple uses...
You call out the readings BUT NOT THE UNITS!!!!! 2.6 what? Call out the units every time!!!!!!
Its hard to get good help these days!!
Hey I make mistakes,,,,,
OMG skip to 7:43 On future videos PLEASE do not play that annoying music. not necessary and makes me want to shut off the video. no reason it should take 47 minutes to show how to test an ignition coil you give way more unnecessary information than necessary.
If you watched the beginning I explained its in chapters, the 1st being a basic tutorial and definitions of vocabulary, then go to the segment for your machine/engine, that should take about 15 minutes.
This video covers many coils, for many levels of ability, some people are complete novices.
These videos are free to you but cost me time and I'm not a professional videographer.
I give information, either in depth or not, your not the only one the video is for.
If you know how to test a coil why watch this? If you know how long it should take, make a video!
Omg go out to the highway and lay down. Count mufflers cause its necessary.
Mega ohms 😂
Mega-
Mega is a unit prefix in metric systems of units denoting a factor of one million. It has the unit symbol M. It was confirmed for use in the International System of Units in 1960. Mega comes from Ancient Greek: μέγας, romanized: mégas, lit. 'great'. Wikipedia
Very confusing.
check out some videos on Ohms Law
Talking to death
Not really after knowing what he was accomplishing. It was thorough.
This guy doesn't know what he's doing. You need to remove the high tension lead to eliminate it's resistance.
I think you are talking too much and nonsense.
Thanx
I think you are rude and ungrateful.
@@TheNovaJohn fuck the haters bro. Nice video. Thank for ur time man.
lol
Thanks!!!
To many brakes to gain anything from this video.
I explained this in the 1st part of the video, did ya watch that?
Its in chapters, you only need to watch the parts
no music