Hey sir thank you for sharing. I have little faith in lawnmower shops though they can fix anything if you are rich. I do thank God for TH-cam for such people like me living on a small budget. Again thank you Sir
I just did this test on a power washer today. It had no spark. So I pulled the coil and checked it. The coil read 4.5 k which was within specs. I noticed it had considerable rust on the legs and on the flywheel. I polished those up and..viola! The engine started.
hello there! new canadian friend here! thanks for stopping by my channel much appreciated! this video was very insiteful! thanks for explaining all this!
Thanks for sharing - this helped rule out coils as my issue and it ended up being the coil gap itself on the one side, set to Briggs spec of .010 and now Mower is running like a champ!
have a briggs sprint 40 lx from 2000 and this is the first time it's not sparked, now know the coil is ok and it's probably the 24 year old plug, thanks Roy.
GREAT VIDEO BIG ANSWER MATE😅 NOBODY STATES IF THERE ISNT A READING THE COIL IS DEAD. ONLY YOU👌. NOW I KNOW FOR SURE MY COIL IS DEAD. God Bless you bro NY VIEWER
Very helpful. Thank you. I just bought (very cheap - 20$) a 8 hp snowblower with B&S engine, no spark - so I'll use this metode to test it. Very easy, and I don't have to remove anything to get it testet either :)
Good video but one thing to keep in mind, coils can fail under running conditions. The heat can cause the internal windings to fail and in turn the coil fails. I just had this happen on an older opposed twin Briggs, it would start right up when the engine was cold and after it warmed up, it would not start again (no spark). I have had this happen on other coils as well! The opposed twin engine utilized a single coil with 2 wires (the cylinders fired at TDC at the same time) - I could take 1 wire off of ether cylinder and the engine would start, as soon as I put the wire back on and tried to start it back up it lost spark. A new coil fixed the problem!
Just FYI - resistance has no polarity, so you don't have to worry about putting the positive test lead or the negative lead in a specific place - you'll get the same whether they are switched or not.
3:20 You should measure the primary winding between the spade connector and the bolt hole. If you measure both coils in series like you did, you will not see any difference, but if you measure the primary separately, you should get a very low ohms reading - like, less than 1ohm (change your mulltimeter scale if it isn't autoranging). While you _can_ connect a kill switch to this spade, its main connection is to the points, so it's important to check it separately. The primary is high current, low volts, and the secondary is high voltage, low current. Hope this helps.
Keith Sherry right, it is better to look at the principle of a coil, Bobine in Dutch, to understand the measured values. and at 4:40 there is that cap. It is possible that they are R types, for suppressing pulses on radio etc. then there is a hi R resistance in that cap. So 5KOhm is in the circuit already. When repairing old engines a often use caps without a suppressor resistor. Good luck with your videos!
I have a John Deere with the B&S 18hp not firing the spark plug on the right side. Step one switched the plugs from right to left, and right one still fouling out. Step two replaced both plugs with new ones (mainly just because it was time to do so). Step three took coils off thinking I'd be replacing the one on the right anyhow. Step four went thru this testing procedure as show in the video, but both coils are good. Step five scratched my head and stared at it for a long time. Step six, tested the kill wires with the ohmmeter and found that the one on the right has zero connectivity. So I'll be going out tomorrow to get a new wiring harness for the kill wires. I'm happy that I'm buying two pieces of wire for about $12-15 instead of a more expensive coil. Hopefully that fixes it and I can get back to mowing. Thanks for the video, this was very helpful and saved me from just running out and buying a new coil without checking first.
Good info. I’ll be testing the coil on a cursed freebie shortly. One item to note, Comm is your ground or earth connection, not positive. Black wire goes there. You’re red wire would go in either outside connection, right side for volts, ohms or milliamps, left side for DC amps. Hope this helps.
If you are checking for continuity or taking an ohm reading the positive or negative doesn't matter with a digital meter. It is simply reading between the meter leads. Not a polarity bias situation.
Just a slight correction, for the open circuit example you say it has no resistance, when it in fact has infinite resistance (at least in practical terms).
Thanks for the good video. My coil tested within the range you describe, but due to ruling out everything else that could have caused the mower not to have spark, I replaced the coil with a used coil, and the mower started right up.
Hi, George Pierce by way of your Facebook comment, thank you. You deliver...actually over-deliver exactly what your viewers are expecting, thanks for excellent content and presentation, well done. A few more keywords in your description might make YT love your video even more. Very nice video, thanks.
Hi Roy Im not a million miles from you in Chislehurst (Bromley, S E London way). Ive watched loads of video's on checking these coils, all hard to understand. After watching yours i get it now, nice and easy to follow.
Very helpful. Thanks! Is there a convenient place to find out what the various resistance tolerances are for different coils? I gather that the larger the engine, the higher the range of resistance should be. Is that about right? For example, if I want to check the coil for my truck, where do I find out what I should be looking for on a good coil.
Thanks for your video. Mine was bad and your video confirmed my guess. I had another idea, but can't test it right now. If you set your meter to measure DC voltage, and connect the positive lead to where the plug goes and ground the meter on the body while passing a neodymium magnet in the same path that the crankshaft goes, you should get a momentary voltage signal. If anyone can try it, let me know if my idea worked.
Finally someone that taught me the right way to use the meter on a coil!! Thank you for your help and video!! So mine reads 6.45 Briggs and Stratton would you know what a new one is supposed to read? I have ordered and installed a new thermostat, changed the oil, filter and still not wanting to run. It has a self choke primer it’s a 2013 craftsman push mower. I might add the carburetor has been cleaned as well. There’s not much more I can get besides a new coil and carburetor
If someone hit a stump the key on flywheel can shear....timeing is then off...and 6.0 is good reading... Squirt gas in plug hole...then put plug back in
@@PaulPippinjr-ev2wi I decided to keep the new coil since there was nothing wrong with the old one. I did replace the carburetor and the self choke primer and the lawnmower has been running great. And let me tell you on the first pull it started right up.🤙🏽
@@Bargle5 never seen a magnet go bad. Did you happen to sand the post the coil bolts to? Also gap it correctly. Guys like me absolutely love guys like you because of your lack of patience as well as knowledge of the situation.
@@cravenmoorehead5636 Yes, sanded all the contact points. Set and double checked the gap. Also checked for a grounded out kill wire. And made sure the spark plug was good. Nothing helped.
I am not sure but he said the positive wire went to com port on multimeter when I think it would plug into the other port, Normally ground or negative would go to com port
Thank you i have a 2017 murray lawn mower and no spark,but the spark plug is good because when i hook the spark plug up to another lawn mower it sparks.So it must be the coil,i hope so because they cost $45.00.I never had a bad coil and i find it hard to believe the coil is bad on a 2 year old(young)lawn mower that was hardly used and was kept in the shed,but it was used because the fuel system is good.But i will try to test the coil on the mower like you showed before i buy one.
That's so true! I also opened the brass connector only to find that this 'extra sparkplug' is in two pieces from inside. Just leave the brass element off and your good to go ;)
I have a old Fairbanks Morse generator with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It's a model 23FBPC type 203531 serial 289831. I want to know how to test the coil on it and find out if I can get a replacement coil if it's bad. I have been told that they don't make new coils for this engine?
I'm working on a pressure washer, B & S 8BSxs.1901VE. Coil reads 4.8K ohms, but no spark at all. Solid state ignition (no points). Flywheel Magnets seem fine and are clean. The machine worked ok a few weeks ago, but it was hard starting then. Going to try a new coil anyway. Anyway, thanks for the info mate.
@@roystheboy Yes, I tried that, starting fluid, and a different plug. Occasionally, it will throw a weak orange spark. I've settled on a diagnosis, the coil is intermittent for some reason perhaps shorting or opening due to vibration. I have a new one on order, should be here next week.
Hi Roy. Excellent video many thanks. I have a Mountfield with Sumec engine (RV40 - RV150 Series( and purchased an after market coil which is failing to produce a spark. I have tested it and the reading is 6.2K Ohms - is this reading too high for this machine please?
So my coil is off a 17.5hp Briggs and I lost fire yesterday as I was trying to start it up, it kept flooding. Not hitting at all. Thought it was possibly a switch or sparkplug but I tried a spark tester and it wasn't jumping on it. My meter showed 1. On both tests. So my coil is dead?
Hi Roy, thanks. Straight to the point no unnecessary chat, my kind of guy
Just found the supressor cap was knacked, no readings on the multi meter, removed cap and all working. Great video. Thanks.
Hey sir thank you for sharing. I have little faith in lawnmower shops though they can fix anything if you are rich. I do thank God for TH-cam for such people like me living on a small budget. Again thank you Sir
Thanks i have a Briggs engine but had no idea how to test the coil. Thanks for the tutorials.
This made it so easy to identify my bad coil. I tested it right on the mower and simply compared it to the other side.
Thank you!
Ty, after watching a couple videos YOURS THE BEST, my coil is 2.97, and I was going to buy one, saved a few quid, I think I only need a condenser!!!
I just did this test on a power washer today. It had no spark. So I pulled the coil and checked it. The coil read 4.5 k which was within specs. I noticed it had considerable rust on the legs and on the flywheel. I polished those up and..viola! The engine started.
I'm glad it helped you repair your own one
hello there! new canadian friend here! thanks for stopping by my channel much appreciated! this video was very insiteful! thanks for explaining all this!
Thanks for sharing - this helped rule out coils as my issue and it ended up being the coil gap itself on the one side, set to Briggs spec of .010 and now Mower is running like a champ!
This was a great walk through and demonstration. thanks for sharing.
thanks for watching i hope it helps
have a briggs sprint 40 lx from 2000 and this is the first time it's not sparked, now know the coil is ok and it's probably the 24 year old plug, thanks Roy.
GREAT VIDEO BIG ANSWER MATE😅
NOBODY STATES IF THERE ISNT A READING THE COIL IS DEAD. ONLY YOU👌. NOW I KNOW FOR SURE MY COIL IS DEAD.
God Bless you bro
NY VIEWER
Very helpful. Thank you. I just bought (very cheap - 20$) a 8 hp snowblower with B&S engine, no spark - so I'll use this metode to test it. Very easy, and I don't have to remove anything to get it testet either :)
Good video. You explained everything clearly and it’s just the information I need. Thanks.
Good video but one thing to keep in mind, coils can fail under running conditions. The heat can cause the internal windings to fail and in turn the coil fails. I just had this happen on an older opposed twin Briggs, it would start right up when the engine was cold and after it warmed up, it would not start again (no spark). I have had this happen on other coils as well! The opposed twin engine utilized a single coil with 2 wires (the cylinders fired at TDC at the same time) - I could take 1 wire off of ether cylinder and the engine would start, as soon as I put the wire back on and tried to start it back up it lost spark. A new coil fixed the problem!
thank you for that information i will keep in mind
@@roystheboy You are certainly welcome! It is rare, but it does happen!
@@roystheboy 4.7K is the resistance okay?
@@ScottMiller-tu3gg seen that a couple of times, it's a common problem with a ballast resistors found on older Dodges.
Thanks for this. I've got a chain saw that the shop said can't be fixed due to no spark. This will give me a place to start with my VOM.
Roy, another a Florida guy here. I have a cub with a Briggs 22 hp and I need to test mine today. Thanks for the video.
thank you for watching your very welcome
Just FYI - resistance has no polarity, so you don't have to worry about putting the positive test lead or the negative lead in a specific place - you'll get the same whether they are switched or not.
Very cool. Never knew. Always learn something new every day. Thank u for sharing
Nice video my friend. Good information and good showing. Look forward to the next one.
This video came at the right time I'm work on the very same thing. I learned how to use a voltmeter very cool !
Glad to hear it
3:20 You should measure the primary winding between the spade connector and the bolt hole. If you measure both coils in series like you did, you will not see any difference, but if you measure the primary separately, you should get a very low ohms reading - like, less than 1ohm (change your mulltimeter scale if it isn't autoranging). While you _can_ connect a kill switch to this spade, its main connection is to the points, so it's important to check it separately. The primary is high current, low volts, and the secondary is high voltage, low current. Hope this helps.
Keith Sherry right, it is better to look at the principle of a coil, Bobine in Dutch, to understand the measured values.
and at 4:40 there is that cap. It is possible that they are R types, for suppressing pulses on radio etc. then there is a hi R resistance in that cap. So 5KOhm is in the circuit already.
When repairing old engines a often use caps without a suppressor resistor.
Good luck with your videos!
¹
I have a John Deere with the B&S 18hp not firing the spark plug on the right side. Step one switched the plugs from right to left, and right one still fouling out. Step two replaced both plugs with new ones (mainly just because it was time to do so). Step three took coils off thinking I'd be replacing the one on the right anyhow. Step four went thru this testing procedure as show in the video, but both coils are good. Step five scratched my head and stared at it for a long time. Step six, tested the kill wires with the ohmmeter and found that the one on the right has zero connectivity. So I'll be going out tomorrow to get a new wiring harness for the kill wires. I'm happy that I'm buying two pieces of wire for about $12-15 instead of a more expensive coil. Hopefully that fixes it and I can get back to mowing.
Thanks for the video, this was very helpful and saved me from just running out and buying a new coil without checking first.
Thank you bob for watching I am glad it saved you some money you seem to know what you're doing good luck with getting it fixed.
I tested mine and got 4.68 . thanks for this Video .
Good info. I’ll be testing the coil on a cursed freebie shortly. One item to note, Comm is your ground or earth connection, not positive. Black wire goes there. You’re red wire would go in either outside connection, right side for volts, ohms or milliamps, left side for DC amps. Hope this helps.
Absolutely correct , wouldn't get proper results if there is a diode in the circuit !!
Colette & Joe Shwetz true
If you are checking for continuity or taking an ohm reading the positive or negative doesn't matter with a digital meter. It is simply reading between the meter leads. Not a polarity bias situation.
Big help, thanks. Note, B&S coils spec between 2.5~5k ohms. (not 25,000)
Just a slight correction, for the open circuit example you say it has no resistance, when it in fact has infinite resistance (at least in practical terms).
Great information & presentation! Well done! 👍 Have a wonderful day!
Excellent explanation video👍
Thanks for the information,I didn`t know how to test a coil before and I`v worked on mowers for years. 5stars
Excellent video. It helped me sort what "wasn't" the problem. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the good video. My coil tested within the range you describe, but due to ruling out everything else that could have caused the mower not to have spark, I replaced the coil with a used coil, and the mower started right up.
Might’ve been one of the wires....
The coil on the bench may check ok, but if its not grounded to the engine block, you wont get a spark. Check for corrosion on the mounting points.
Very informative Roy i think i will invest in a multi meter easy way to test the coils without fitting them good video
Been working turbine aircraft for 15 years and never broke a meter wire. I bet that's a good story!
Great video sir, cheers!
Hi, gretting from Venezuela.
Thanks for the how to test coils for Dummies tutorial thanks for sharing😅😅❤
Hi, George Pierce by way of your Facebook comment, thank you. You deliver...actually over-deliver exactly what your viewers are expecting, thanks for excellent content and presentation, well done. A few more keywords in your description might make YT love your video even more. Very nice video, thanks.
+George Pierce thanks george what keywords are you thinking of and thanks for watching
You Sir are a star. I’m a Luddite when it comes to electrical but even I can follow your procedure. Thanks👍
you're welcome I'm glad it helped
Hi Roy
Im not a million miles from you in Chislehurst (Bromley, S E London way).
Ive watched loads of video's on checking these coils, all hard to understand.
After watching yours i get it now, nice and easy to follow.
thank you glad it helped
This is helpful, in the fact that we dont have to look up those specifications. Thanks !
thanks for watching
@@roystheboy &
ty for the quick video. very helpful.
Thank you for the information Roys 👍
Thanks Roy
I totally good presentation! Thanks for the information!
Thanks for sharing with us this video appreciations 🇩🇰🙏👍
Very helpful. Thanks! Is there a convenient place to find out what the various resistance tolerances are for different coils? I gather that the larger the engine, the higher the range of resistance should be. Is that about right? For example, if I want to check the coil for my truck, where do I find out what I should be looking for on a good coil.
instaBlaster.
@@zakaigatlin5812 oi, don't be mean to th henglish!
Very informative video on how to test the coil. Appreciate the step-by-step instructions.
Silver Bugle thank you I Appreciate your comment and watching
lepo ste objasnili hvala vam.
Subbed, and rang the bell, great job explaining the process.
OMG DUDE YOU ROCK... I never seen it so easy... so mine is at 2.80.. so no good... that's again....
Thanks mate, helped me!
Glad to hear that
Thanks for the information
Thank you that was very helpful.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for your video. Mine was bad and your video confirmed my guess.
I had another idea, but can't test it right now. If you set your meter to measure DC voltage, and connect the positive lead to where the plug goes and ground the meter on the body while passing a neodymium magnet in the same path that the crankshaft goes, you should get a momentary voltage signal. If anyone can try it, let me know if my idea worked.
Will give it a try
@@roystheboy Nice! Looking forward to the results!
Thanks mate. Great video, you never stop learning...
Well done sir . Thank you.
Great help!
Thanks for that Roy, good info to know.......Easier than Pulling the cord and looking for a spark on Your own.
yes it does
That Was Good Info 👍
Thanks for the video
Jolly good show. Now I'm ready to check the ohms on mine straight away.
Finally someone that taught me the right way to use the meter on a coil!! Thank you for your help and video!! So mine reads 6.45 Briggs and Stratton would you know what a new one is supposed to read? I have ordered and installed a new thermostat, changed the oil, filter and still not wanting to run. It has a self choke primer it’s a 2013 craftsman push mower.
I might add the carburetor has been cleaned as well. There’s not much more I can get besides a new coil and carburetor
If someone hit a stump the key on flywheel can shear....timeing is then off...and 6.0 is good reading... Squirt gas in plug hole...then put plug back in
@@PaulPippinjr-ev2wi I decided to keep the new coil since there was nothing wrong with the old one. I did replace the carburetor and the self choke primer and the lawnmower has been running great. And let me tell you on the first pull it started right up.🤙🏽
Awesome job
Great video stopping by to show support ❤
ah yes...another rc guy...the best type :)
Our boy Roy
Congrats! You have nice airplanes! Soft landings every time...! ;)
Thanks Roy Boy. Just what I was looking for. Nice one!
A very useful video. Didn't fix my problem, but I was able to avoid wasting money on a new coil. I suspect my problem is bad magnets in the flywheel.
Try cleaning any rust from the magnetic and from the coil
@@roystheboy I did that. It didn't help. I got fed up with it and put it at the curb. Now it's someone else's problem. :-) Thanks for the suggestion.
Then some time we have to do that
@@Bargle5 never seen a magnet go bad. Did you happen to sand the post the coil bolts to? Also gap it correctly. Guys like me absolutely love guys like you because of your lack of patience as well as knowledge of the situation.
@@cravenmoorehead5636 Yes, sanded all the contact points. Set and double checked the gap. Also checked for a grounded out kill wire. And made sure the spark plug was good. Nothing helped.
I am not sure but he said the positive wire went to com port on multimeter when I think it would plug into the other port, Normally ground or negative would go to com port
My thoughts exactly. I've always put the negative into the com port.
Pretty sure he's in the northern hemisphere though
Irrelevant when testing resistance
Great job 👍
Awesome Vid!! Exactly what I needed!
Is there any difference between testing an electronic ignition coil and an old-style points ignition coil?
Going to test my coil now, thank you!
Good job mate! Thanks for the valuable info..
That was helpful although I had difficulty understanding through your British accent. Thanks.
That's a cockney east London accent lol thanks for watching
@@roystheboy I can understand your accent and I'm from Australia
Thank you i have a 2017 murray lawn mower and no spark,but the spark plug is good because when i hook the spark plug up to another lawn mower it sparks.So it must be the coil,i hope so because they cost $45.00.I never had a bad coil and i find it hard to believe the coil is bad on a 2 year old(young)lawn mower that was hardly used and was kept in the shed,but it was used because the fuel system is good.But i will try to test the coil on the mower like you showed before i buy one.
+ricky parr Thanks for watching I hope you sort it out if the coil is good check the connection at the ignition
Thanks!Enabling.
Showing United States love bro... Let's stay in touch
This is great , thank you for sharing
If the kill switch wire doesn't read would the lawn mower still start?
Will this test work if it has two spark plug wires coming out? It’s for a riding mower
hi Roy could u do a video on how to change the spark plug cap many thanks Richard
yes i could do that for you
@@roystheboy thanks Roy much appreciated 👍👍👍
On the coil with the brass connection take it off and retest it the price connection could be faulty I tried it works
That's so true!
I also opened the brass connector only to find that this 'extra sparkplug' is in two pieces from inside. Just leave the brass element off and your good to go ;)
Thank you for the info Roy Boy God Bless
I'm testing a Briggs carb off a 6.5 hp engine. Reading 4.99. no spark, but the flywheel was cracked as well. Is this still a good coil
I have a old Fairbanks Morse generator with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It's a model 23FBPC type 203531 serial 289831. I want to know how to test the coil on it and find out if I can get a replacement coil if it's bad. I have been told that they don't make new coils for this engine?
Nice work thank you for sharing knowledge.
Smashed🤜👍..great video!
Nice job
nice tips, very helpful keep it up
lemer sucgang thank you for watching
I'm working on a pressure washer, B & S 8BSxs.1901VE. Coil reads 4.8K ohms, but no spark at all. Solid state ignition (no points). Flywheel Magnets seem fine and are clean. The machine worked ok a few weeks ago, but it was hard starting then. Going to try a new coil anyway.
Anyway, thanks for the info mate.
Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner where the plug goes just to see if it fires
@@roystheboy Yes, I tried that, starting fluid, and a different plug. Occasionally, it will throw a weak orange spark. I've settled on a diagnosis, the coil is intermittent for some reason perhaps shorting or opening due to vibration. I have a new one on order, should be here next week.
@@roystheboy I received the new coil. It started on the first pull. Obviously the coil was the issue. Thanks for the vids.
Glad it helped you well done on the repair
Hi Roy. Excellent video many thanks. I have a Mountfield with Sumec engine (RV40 - RV150 Series( and purchased an after market coil which is failing to produce a spark. I have tested it and the reading is 6.2K Ohms - is this reading too high for this machine please?
Thank you.
Very informative walk through...new Subscriber here from Gordie Bobs
Thank you for sharing! New friend here!
nice video
So my coil is off a 17.5hp Briggs and I lost fire yesterday as I was trying to start it up, it kept flooding. Not hitting at all. Thought it was possibly a switch or sparkplug but I tried a spark tester and it wasn't jumping on it. My meter showed 1. On both tests. So my coil is dead?
Interesting video! Thanks buddy