You say the range is 25000- 5000 ohms and then test one coil that comes out at 2,67Ohms 2670ohms and said it's good, doesn't make sense to me ?? Seems to be out of range to me , maybe you meant 2500-5000 ? Anyway thanks for a good video
Just FYI - resistance has no polarity, so you don't have to worry about putting the positive test lead or the negative lead in a specific place - you'll get the same whether they are switched or not.
Just a slight correction, for the open circuit example you say it has no resistance, when it in fact has infinite resistance (at least in practical terms).
I am not sure but he said the positive wire went to com port on multimeter when I think it would plug into the other port, Normally ground or negative would go to com port
I just did this test on a power washer today. It had no spark. So I pulled the coil and checked it. The coil read 4.5 k which was within specs. I noticed it had considerable rust on the legs and on the flywheel. I polished those up and..viola! The engine started.
3:20 You should measure the primary winding between the spade connector and the bolt hole. If you measure both coils in series like you did, you will not see any difference, but if you measure the primary separately, you should get a very low ohms reading - like, less than 1ohm (change your mulltimeter scale if it isn't autoranging). While you _can_ connect a kill switch to this spade, its main connection is to the points, so it's important to check it separately. The primary is high current, low volts, and the secondary is high voltage, low current. Hope this helps.
Keith Sherry right, it is better to look at the principle of a coil, Bobine in Dutch, to understand the measured values. and at 4:40 there is that cap. It is possible that they are R types, for suppressing pulses on radio etc. then there is a hi R resistance in that cap. So 5KOhm is in the circuit already. When repairing old engines a often use caps without a suppressor resistor. Good luck with your videos!
Good video but one thing to keep in mind, coils can fail under running conditions. The heat can cause the internal windings to fail and in turn the coil fails. I just had this happen on an older opposed twin Briggs, it would start right up when the engine was cold and after it warmed up, it would not start again (no spark). I have had this happen on other coils as well! The opposed twin engine utilized a single coil with 2 wires (the cylinders fired at TDC at the same time) - I could take 1 wire off of ether cylinder and the engine would start, as soon as I put the wire back on and tried to start it back up it lost spark. A new coil fixed the problem!
Good info. I’ll be testing the coil on a cursed freebie shortly. One item to note, Comm is your ground or earth connection, not positive. Black wire goes there. You’re red wire would go in either outside connection, right side for volts, ohms or milliamps, left side for DC amps. Hope this helps.
If you are checking for continuity or taking an ohm reading the positive or negative doesn't matter with a digital meter. It is simply reading between the meter leads. Not a polarity bias situation.
Very helpful. Thanks! Is there a convenient place to find out what the various resistance tolerances are for different coils? I gather that the larger the engine, the higher the range of resistance should be. Is that about right? For example, if I want to check the coil for my truck, where do I find out what I should be looking for on a good coil.
Maybe there is some confusion about what a good resistance reading range should be because you say between 25,000 and 5,000 when you actually mean 2,500 and 5,000. You say 25 thousand not 25 hundred. Just pointing out some confusion.
Mine measured 7.25, I have no spark, bit it will zap me 😅. Tried 3 different sparkplug none worked, tried those same ones on a different machine, they spark just fine. What am I missing?
GREAT VIDEO BIG ANSWER MATE😅 NOBODY STATES IF THERE ISNT A READING THE COIL IS DEAD. ONLY YOU👌. NOW I KNOW FOR SURE MY COIL IS DEAD. God Bless you bro NY VIEWER
Um... @3:30 testing the way you did there won't give the correct measurement, the resistance of the primary and secondary should not be the same, one should be much greater... (Unless everything I learned in Electronics was totally wrong)...
So my coil is off a 17.5hp Briggs and I lost fire yesterday as I was trying to start it up, it kept flooding. Not hitting at all. Thought it was possibly a switch or sparkplug but I tried a spark tester and it wasn't jumping on it. My meter showed 1. On both tests. So my coil is dead?
That's so true! I also opened the brass connector only to find that this 'extra sparkplug' is in two pieces from inside. Just leave the brass element off and your good to go ;)
Very helpful. Thank you. I just bought (very cheap - 20$) a 8 hp snowblower with B&S engine, no spark - so I'll use this metode to test it. Very easy, and I don't have to remove anything to get it testet either :)
My problem isn't testing it, it's getting to it. I have a 5.5 hp quantum, circa 2004 or 05. I have removed every visable bolt holding on the top and still can't get it off. It's loose, but something is still holding it!! Can't find any instructions for that motor on line. Most of the engines seem to have a couple of bolts on top and whoosh! But I've taken out 6 bolts, three from the front and three kind of hidden in the back and it still won't budge. Don't see anymore bolts!
The coil with the big spark plug cap might be good. Pull the plug cap off of the coil lead and measure directly. When I was a mechanic on motorcycles We would find failed spark plug caps. Many of the had resistors in them and they would fail.
also test between the coil and the engine case should be no resistance. may have to clean rust or corrosion. I have tested coils that tested good resistance wise but still no spark. took the old spark plug connector off and put on a new one.
Your touching the coil lead, and the chassis of the coil with your hands and the probs this is giving you a false reading as your body conducts electrical current also. Dont touch the meters probe leads and if you must do it only touch one and nothing else. Don't hold the part in your hands. If you were testing a complex circuit you couldn't do it that way. Depending on humidity how wet your hands are you very well could be reading your body and not the coil.
Hi Roy ,I think I should point out that the 3rd coil you checked as open circuit has the metal cased.Resistive plug connector which plugs into the coil lead .It's value is 5k ohm. If this item is open circuit or the connection is corroded to the lead.Then the test will show no reading on the coil.It can be misleading.I got caught out and purchased a new coil for nothing.Cleaned the connection after finding out it can be separated. Then tested ok.
Before explain the hardware missing a smal diagram for all the coil input and output. After this diagram will be very easy to make all the measurements to understand the functionality of the coil. Atention! Inside of coil there is a darlington tranzistor. th-cam.com/video/NNlYbvDY6pI/w-d-xo.html
Question i have a lawnmower 7.25 engine and when the first start is no problem and when the 2nd start the no have spark, i change the oil with a replacement and measure the ohms and have 5.75 k and y calibrate and the problem persist and then i buy a oem coil new and the measurement its 6.50k and i put the oem coil and the problem persist in the 2nd start they no have spark, the flywheel and key its perfect, spark plug its new, any body cant help me
The primary windings should always have less resistance than the secondary windings not the same. You tested the secondary windings twice. A resistance test is not a reliable test.
Hey sir thank you for sharing. I have little faith in lawnmower shops though they can fix anything if you are rich. I do thank God for TH-cam for such people like me living on a small budget. Again thank you Sir
I have a talon mower that has one side bolting down the air vein and the coil but it doesn't have a bolt to turn. It could be pressed in or screwed but I have no idea how to undo it to remove the coil. Has anyone done this ? Thanks .
if it will not fire on the engine what good is tests with multimeter just replace it nothing to repair no matter what it reads what do you hope to find with meter test that you can fix ????? i use meters every but not ness. this case
Can a coil quit working when it gets hot? How do you test for that? It runs maybe 30 minutes bogs down, then quits. Let it cool down and it runs again maybe 10 minutes and so on. Any thoughts? This is driving me crazy. Thanks in advance.
Yes it can but first try changing the spark plug and could be other things like carburettor, old fuel, and even the fuel cap vent is clogged up or not on properly
hello there! new canadian friend here! thanks for stopping by my channel much appreciated! this video was very insiteful! thanks for explaining all this!
wonderful! You helped fix my snow blower and to finally get my head around these coils. Do you know of a site that has resistance specifications for this type of coil?
Help! I'm trying to repair my neighbours lawnmower. I have a little bit of knowledge that makes me dangerous! It's a big Hayter with a roller and a Briggs and Stratton motor, but can't see any model number. I removed the rusty coilpack cleaned it all up and did your electrical tests on it. It came back with 4.54 k ohms and the same when I tested it on the ground connector. I put it back on and with spark plug removed put a test light between HT lead cap and earth on cylinder fin. I got a good pulse light when I turned the engine over with a drill on the flywheel nut. I also tested continuity of the earth lead. Incidentally all work done with kill bar taped up in running position. Put it altogether and put the test light on the spark plug but no spark. I've whole procedure twice now. Second time with new spark plug. I inspected the Woodruff key on the flywheel. I heard if these break it can throw the timing out. This was all okay. A
Hi, George Pierce by way of your Facebook comment, thank you. You deliver...actually over-deliver exactly what your viewers are expecting, thanks for excellent content and presentation, well done. A few more keywords in your description might make YT love your video even more. Very nice video, thanks.
8/24/2019 Thanks Roy from Florida. Great video and plenty of lighting so everything could be seen! I liked that you gave more than one example with the different coils. I wished I came across your video before I bought a New Coil. I tested both with the same exact readings.They were 172 on both old and new coil. Where would I find how many Ohms the coil is supposed to be?Thx very much / keep up the good deeds.
I have a old Fairbanks Morse generator with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It's a model 23FBPC type 203531 serial 289831. I want to know how to test the coil on it and find out if I can get a replacement coil if it's bad. I have been told that they don't make new coils for this engine?
have a briggs sprint 40 lx from 2000 and this is the first time it's not sparked, now know the coil is ok and it's probably the 24 year old plug, thanks Roy.
Thanks for sharing - this helped rule out coils as my issue and it ended up being the coil gap itself on the one side, set to Briggs spec of .010 and now Mower is running like a champ!
You say the range is 25000- 5000 ohms and then test one coil that comes out at 2,67Ohms 2670ohms and said it's good, doesn't make sense to me ?? Seems to be out of range to me , maybe you meant 2500-5000 ? Anyway thanks for a good video
Googling the question yielded multiple 2500-5000 ohms.
Just FYI - resistance has no polarity, so you don't have to worry about putting the positive test lead or the negative lead in a specific place - you'll get the same whether they are switched or not.
Just a slight correction, for the open circuit example you say it has no resistance, when it in fact has infinite resistance (at least in practical terms).
I honestly don't know how you tolerate both meter leads the same color... that would frustrate me.
I am not sure but he said the positive wire went to com port on multimeter when I think it would plug into the other port, Normally ground or negative would go to com port
My thoughts exactly. I've always put the negative into the com port.
Pretty sure he's in the northern hemisphere though
Irrelevant when testing resistance
I just did this test on a power washer today. It had no spark. So I pulled the coil and checked it. The coil read 4.5 k which was within specs. I noticed it had considerable rust on the legs and on the flywheel. I polished those up and..viola! The engine started.
I'm glad it helped you repair your own one
Hi Roy, thanks. Straight to the point no unnecessary chat, my kind of guy
This was a great walk through and demonstration. thanks for sharing.
thanks for watching i hope it helps
Very cool. Never knew. Always learn something new every day. Thank u for sharing
3:20 You should measure the primary winding between the spade connector and the bolt hole. If you measure both coils in series like you did, you will not see any difference, but if you measure the primary separately, you should get a very low ohms reading - like, less than 1ohm (change your mulltimeter scale if it isn't autoranging). While you _can_ connect a kill switch to this spade, its main connection is to the points, so it's important to check it separately. The primary is high current, low volts, and the secondary is high voltage, low current. Hope this helps.
Keith Sherry right, it is better to look at the principle of a coil, Bobine in Dutch, to understand the measured values.
and at 4:40 there is that cap. It is possible that they are R types, for suppressing pulses on radio etc. then there is a hi R resistance in that cap. So 5KOhm is in the circuit already.
When repairing old engines a often use caps without a suppressor resistor.
Good luck with your videos!
¹
Good video but one thing to keep in mind, coils can fail under running conditions. The heat can cause the internal windings to fail and in turn the coil fails. I just had this happen on an older opposed twin Briggs, it would start right up when the engine was cold and after it warmed up, it would not start again (no spark). I have had this happen on other coils as well! The opposed twin engine utilized a single coil with 2 wires (the cylinders fired at TDC at the same time) - I could take 1 wire off of ether cylinder and the engine would start, as soon as I put the wire back on and tried to start it back up it lost spark. A new coil fixed the problem!
thank you for that information i will keep in mind
@@roystheboy You are certainly welcome! It is rare, but it does happen!
@@roystheboy 4.7K is the resistance okay?
@@ScottMiller-tu3gg seen that a couple of times, it's a common problem with a ballast resistors found on older Dodges.
Good info. I’ll be testing the coil on a cursed freebie shortly. One item to note, Comm is your ground or earth connection, not positive. Black wire goes there. You’re red wire would go in either outside connection, right side for volts, ohms or milliamps, left side for DC amps. Hope this helps.
Absolutely correct , wouldn't get proper results if there is a diode in the circuit !!
Colette & Joe Shwetz true
If you are checking for continuity or taking an ohm reading the positive or negative doesn't matter with a digital meter. It is simply reading between the meter leads. Not a polarity bias situation.
Very helpful. Thanks! Is there a convenient place to find out what the various resistance tolerances are for different coils? I gather that the larger the engine, the higher the range of resistance should be. Is that about right? For example, if I want to check the coil for my truck, where do I find out what I should be looking for on a good coil.
instaBlaster.
@@zakaigatlin5812 oi, don't be mean to th henglish!
Maybe there is some confusion about what a good resistance reading range should be because you say between 25,000 and 5,000 when you actually mean 2,500 and 5,000. You say 25 thousand not 25 hundred. Just pointing out some confusion.
Great information & presentation! Well done! 👍 Have a wonderful day!
Excellent explanation video👍
I totally good presentation! Thanks for the information!
Thanks i have a Briggs engine but had no idea how to test the coil. Thanks for the tutorials.
Big help, thanks. Note, B&S coils spec between 2.5~5k ohms. (not 25,000)
Mine measured 7.25, I have no spark, bit it will zap me 😅. Tried 3 different sparkplug none worked, tried those same ones on a different machine, they spark just fine. What am I missing?
GREAT VIDEO BIG ANSWER MATE😅
NOBODY STATES IF THERE ISNT A READING THE COIL IS DEAD. ONLY YOU👌. NOW I KNOW FOR SURE MY COIL IS DEAD.
God Bless you bro
NY VIEWER
Um... @3:30 testing the way you did there won't give the correct measurement, the resistance of the primary and secondary should not be the same, one should be much greater...
(Unless everything I learned in Electronics was totally wrong)...
Good video. You explained everything clearly and it’s just the information I need. Thanks.
So my coil is off a 17.5hp Briggs and I lost fire yesterday as I was trying to start it up, it kept flooding. Not hitting at all. Thought it was possibly a switch or sparkplug but I tried a spark tester and it wasn't jumping on it. My meter showed 1. On both tests. So my coil is dead?
On the coil with the brass connection take it off and retest it the price connection could be faulty I tried it works
That's so true!
I also opened the brass connector only to find that this 'extra sparkplug' is in two pieces from inside. Just leave the brass element off and your good to go ;)
Very helpful. Thank you. I just bought (very cheap - 20$) a 8 hp snowblower with B&S engine, no spark - so I'll use this metode to test it. Very easy, and I don't have to remove anything to get it testet either :)
My problem isn't testing it, it's getting to it. I have a 5.5 hp quantum, circa 2004 or 05. I have removed every visable bolt holding on the top and still can't get it off. It's loose, but something is still holding it!! Can't find any instructions for that motor on line. Most of the engines seem to have a couple of bolts on top and whoosh! But I've taken out 6 bolts, three from the front and three kind of hidden in the back and it still won't budge. Don't see anymore bolts!
Just found the supressor cap was knacked, no readings on the multi meter, removed cap and all working. Great video. Thanks.
Testing the kill sith both ways should read differently. One way the 2.6700 ohms and the other way shouild read "open."
The coil with the big spark plug cap might be good. Pull the plug cap off of the coil lead and measure directly. When I was a mechanic on motorcycles We would find failed spark plug caps. Many of the had resistors in them and they would fail.
also test between the coil and the engine case should be no resistance. may have to clean rust or corrosion. I have tested coils that tested good resistance wise but still no spark. took the old spark plug connector off and put on a new one.
Your touching the coil lead, and the chassis of the coil with your hands and the probs this is giving you a false reading as your body conducts electrical current also. Dont touch the meters probe leads and if you must do it only touch one and nothing else. Don't hold the part in your hands.
If you were testing a complex circuit you couldn't do it that way. Depending on humidity how wet your hands are you very well could be reading your body and not the coil.
At 4:38 you should have said "infinite resistance" No resistance is continuity which would read zero.
Hi Roy ,I think I should point out that the 3rd coil you checked as open circuit has the metal cased.Resistive plug connector which plugs into the coil lead .It's value is 5k ohm. If this item is open circuit or the connection is corroded to the lead.Then the test will show no reading on the coil.It can be misleading.I got caught out and purchased a new coil for nothing.Cleaned the connection after finding out it can be separated. Then tested ok.
Nice video my friend. Good information and good showing. Look forward to the next one.
Before explain the hardware missing a smal diagram for all the coil input and output. After this diagram will be very easy to make all the measurements to understand the functionality of the coil. Atention! Inside of coil there is a darlington tranzistor. th-cam.com/video/NNlYbvDY6pI/w-d-xo.html
Question i have a lawnmower 7.25 engine and when the first start is no problem and when the 2nd start the no have spark, i change the oil with a replacement and measure the ohms and have 5.75 k and y calibrate and the problem persist and then i buy a oem coil new and the measurement its 6.50k and i put the oem coil and the problem persist in the 2nd start they no have spark, the flywheel and key its perfect, spark plug its new, any body cant help me
Is the coil okay if the resistance keeps rising while you're measuring it. That's the problem I have. It starts around 5:00 and keeps going up
you might be getting a visit from somebody annoyed that you have a nicked ANFIELD ROAD street sign in your garage...
Help. i have an ohms reading of 2.7 from spark plug end and earthed and tried 3 different spark plugs and still no spark ?any idea.cheers
Good information......I never knew that you could test them.
I've bought chinese replacements and they are crap 😃
Big Keg yes they are
@@roystheboy I mess with small engines as well.......just ones I find roadside etc 👍
The primary windings should always have less resistance than the secondary windings not the same. You tested the secondary windings twice. A resistance test is not a reliable test.
Hey sir thank you for sharing. I have little faith in lawnmower shops though they can fix anything if you are rich. I do thank God for TH-cam for such people like me living on a small budget. Again thank you Sir
Hi, gretting from Venezuela.
I have a talon mower that has one side bolting down the air vein and the coil but it doesn't have a bolt to turn. It could be pressed in or screwed but I have no idea how to undo it to remove the coil. Has anyone done this ? Thanks .
Ty, after watching a couple videos YOURS THE BEST, my coil is 2.97, and I was going to buy one, saved a few quid, I think I only need a condenser!!!
Is there any difference between testing an electronic ignition coil and an old-style points ignition coil?
if it will not fire on the engine what good is tests with multimeter just replace it nothing to repair no matter what it reads what do you hope to find with meter test that you can fix ????? i use meters every but not ness. this case
I have a old briggs and stratton mines coming up as 12.66 not sure if im doing it right
These also fail when they warm up and leak internally due to insulation failure. No test for that.
Thanks Roy
Very helpful video. (Could do without the raucous opening theme music.)
I thought when testing the resistance of the coil you should remove the cup first, this is somehow confusing
hi Roy could u do a video on how to change the spark plug cap many thanks Richard
yes i could do that for you
@@roystheboy thanks Roy much appreciated 👍👍👍
Show how to test the new style 4 terminal Honda coil on GX 630
Thank You 🙏
This video came at the right time I'm work on the very same thing. I learned how to use a voltmeter very cool !
Glad to hear it
Can a coil quit working when it gets hot? How do you test for that? It runs maybe 30 minutes bogs down, then quits. Let it cool down and it runs again maybe 10 minutes and so on. Any thoughts? This is driving me crazy. Thanks in advance.
Yes it can but first try changing the spark plug and could be other things like carburettor, old fuel, and even the fuel cap vent is clogged up or not on properly
My multimeter wires negative to COM, positive to voltage/resistance .
hello there! new canadian friend here! thanks for stopping by my channel much appreciated! this video was very insiteful! thanks for explaining all this!
Will this test work if it has two spark plug wires coming out? It’s for a riding mower
This is helpful, in the fact that we dont have to look up those specifications. Thanks !
thanks for watching
@@roystheboy &
wonderful! You helped fix my snow blower and to finally get my head around these coils. Do you know of a site that has resistance specifications for this type of coil?
Did you find a site for coil specs?
Roy. Are you still there?
Yes why
Minh cần bộ đánh lửa bạn có thể giúp mình được không
Positive in com? I put black there. Red in v ohm
Why you in darkness roy you hiding in your shed the wife give U a list of jobs
Help!
I'm trying to repair my neighbours lawnmower. I have a little bit of knowledge that makes me dangerous!
It's a big Hayter with a roller and a Briggs and Stratton motor, but can't see any model number.
I removed the rusty coilpack cleaned it all up and did your electrical tests on it. It came back with 4.54 k ohms and the same when I tested it on the ground connector.
I put it back on and with spark plug removed put a test light between HT lead cap and earth on cylinder fin. I got a good pulse light when I turned the engine over with a drill on the flywheel nut. I also tested continuity of the earth lead. Incidentally all work done with kill bar taped up in running position.
Put it altogether and put the test light on the spark plug but no spark.
I've whole procedure twice now.
Second time with new spark plug.
I inspected the Woodruff key on the flywheel. I heard if these break it can throw the timing out. This was all okay. A
Any ideas what I should do now.
If the kill switch wire doesn't read would the lawn mower still start?
Hi, George Pierce by way of your Facebook comment, thank you. You deliver...actually over-deliver exactly what your viewers are expecting, thanks for excellent content and presentation, well done. A few more keywords in your description might make YT love your video even more. Very nice video, thanks.
+George Pierce thanks george what keywords are you thinking of and thanks for watching
If there is no (zero) reading the coil is actually open
Thank you that was very helpful.
Showing United States love bro... Let's stay in touch
Negative on COM, and Positive on the right... 🙂
C'est bien de nous indiquer les pannes mieux nous expliquer en français. Merci.
Will itbe problem if my coil is 2.415 k ohms
Can
t understand you . You got peanut butter in your mouth ?
I was always told black negative always goes in com
My Briggs coil is showing 6.2 is it still good?
How did he remove the kill switch on engine?
8/24/2019
Thanks Roy from Florida. Great video and plenty of lighting so everything could be seen! I liked that you gave more than one example with the different coils. I wished I came across your video before I bought a New Coil. I tested both with the same exact readings.They were 172 on both old and new coil.
Where would I find how many Ohms the coil is supposed to be?Thx very much / keep up the good deeds.
Smashed🤜👍..great video!
Put the coil on the engine. Adjust the gap. Unplug the kill wire. Spin the engine. The coil will either work or it won’t.
It can have weak or intermittent spark sounding normal but cant handle a load while trying to increase the rpms of the engine
Got u raided
Roy, another a Florida guy here. I have a cub with a Briggs 22 hp and I need to test mine today. Thanks for the video.
thank you for watching your very welcome
Very informative Roy i think i will invest in a multi meter easy way to test the coils without fitting them good video
Very informative walk through...new Subscriber here from Gordie Bobs
I have a old Fairbanks Morse generator with a Briggs and Stratton engine. It's a model 23FBPC type 203531 serial 289831. I want to know how to test the coil on it and find out if I can get a replacement coil if it's bad. I have been told that they don't make new coils for this engine?
Hi roy, I am going to see a Briggs and Stratton mower tomorrow morning no spark i have been told. This is really handy. Are the coils known to fail?
Well done sir . Thank you.
Thanks mate, helped me!
Glad to hear that
How to u reconnect the old ones back ??
nice video
Thanks for the information
I'm testing a Briggs carb off a 6.5 hp engine. Reading 4.99. no spark, but the flywheel was cracked as well. Is this still a good coil
have a briggs sprint 40 lx from 2000 and this is the first time it's not sparked, now know the coil is ok and it's probably the 24 year old plug, thanks Roy.
This is great , thank you for sharing
Thanks for sharing - this helped rule out coils as my issue and it ended up being the coil gap itself on the one side, set to Briggs spec of .010 and now Mower is running like a champ!
I need a coil for my troy bilt pony
OMG DUDE YOU ROCK... I never seen it so easy... so mine is at 2.80.. so no good... that's again....
That was helpful although I had difficulty understanding through your British accent. Thanks.
That's a cockney east London accent lol thanks for watching
@@roystheboy I can understand your accent and I'm from Australia