I have a 40 tooth Woodworker 2 that's been a workhorse and supposed to be good for crosscuts, but I can see how an 80 tooth would be great for that and cutting miters (which I also do and join with splines so the cut is critical). Can you tell me exactly which RC blade you are using for your 80 tootj? I'd like to add that to my tool set. Thanks! And your video series is great! Subscribed as soon as I found it!
Thanks @Stumpy Nubs! I just finished edge banding my new melamine and plywood router table top with solid wood. I followed your advice and it came out awesome! I built the trimming jig. It is SO easy to finally have precise and repeatable results! Thanks again!
I know a lot about woodworking I’ve been doing it for years but there’s always some small trick that one can pick up and I appreciate looking at this for those ideas
Thank you, Stumpy Nubs! I used the jig idea suggested at 2:20, and it worked extremely well (better than other techniques for flush routing the edge banding that I had tried). I guess the following tip makes sense, but things went better for me when I used my heavy duty router with handles than when I tried it using a trim router. The handle and the weight of the router allowed it to travel accurately along the jig. Thanks again!
I saw a sashimono video where the gentleman use a string to provide clamping pressure for hardwood edging. It was slower process, but is easily removed once the glue dried. On smaller pieces, you can also apply a stretch of tape the entire length of the piece, a few inches away from the edge band. then clamp it down normally with shorter pieces of tape, overlapping the long tape. once dry, pull off the long tape and all the shorter ones will come off at once.
The simple trimming jig was a great tip that makes trimming with router a much more stable solution. I usually use a hand plane and finish off with a sanding block if required, but maybe I should try your jig for faster trimming.
Good timing for the back half of a project. I made cabinets, but used about 3/4" banding and used biscuits to align them. I Didn't get a hidden seam and had issuea with the router wobbling. This will come in handy for the second half of my project. Thanks!
@@sh0cktim3what happened to yours? I’m just about to finish (what I consider a nice walnut piece) a walnut hutch (lower portion) and going to edge band, glue, and then hit it with the router. I’m also using 3/4” inch solid walnut?
Thanks for the tip about going along with the grain. I always give you a thumbs up before I watch the video. You've never disappointed to date. (I like to crush a troll, too.)
[off topic] I finally got a pair of those isotunes. Loved them - past tense. I ran over them with the mower. New pair on the way, so this time I got there from a link from your site. Tried to find the $10 discount code from you, but failed. Oh well. Thanks for your interesting videos. I learn a lot from them.
I made my own edge banding out of 3/4 in Birch for a Birch Plywood storage cabinet 2 weeks ago. I didn't even know it was called edge banding until I watched this video. 😅
I've always been a fan of edge banding a plywood "board" with strips that are long grain on the sides, but end grain on the end. To make the end grain edge banding, glue up a panel of the hardwood that's very wide, but not necessarily long, and rip the strips from that, across the grain. No real board has long grain running around all four sides, so end grain banding promotes the illusion it's a real board.
Some advice from the experts and experienced woodworkers please: I have a 30" x 20" oval Maple table top and I want to put a 3/4" walnut edging around it. My first obstacle is the oval shape and the second obstacle is the fact that it is walnut and quite stiff. So steam bending is probably the way to go? Should I cut the walnut into thinner strips, say about 2/16 each and then steam and bend around and clamp to take shape and let it dry out and after they dried out, apply glue and clamp strip by strip - overlapping them, until the desired thickness is reached? (I am quite scared that bending the entire 3/4" - even when steamed, may result in the walnut to crack.)
Thanks for your great videos. Link to tormek doesn’t work. I’ll find it anyway. Just in case you earn any commission though, I thought I’d let you know.
Good timing, I’m planning a project with some hardwood edgebanding! You said this wouldn’t be structural...but could it be with a decent glueup? My plan was to use 3/4” for the band instead of 1/4”, to reinforce plywood bookshelves (possibly on each side, I haven’t decided that yet)
Hi James, I hope this is not a stupid question, but here goes - I have glued my hardwood to my plywood and clamped with blue tape (so far so good), but I cannot really tell which direction I should be routing (the grain seems very straight running in both directions - It's red oak fyi... Part B to this question, can I just use a router table instead of the jig? Thanks for the insight, love the channel
If the grain does not angle in either direction AT ALL, then rout however you like. I recommend a climb-cut with a handheld router for this. You can do this on the router table with some jig setup, but you can not climb-cut on a router table. Here's a tutorial on climb cutting th-cam.com/video/mrE4HyXiwqsh/w-d-xo.htmlttps://th-cam.com/video/mrE4HyXiwqs/w-d-xo.html
When is iron on edge banding the best choice and when should I make my own? I have too many projects to guess any more and I need to focus on competition while not having to look back with regret.
Iron on is easier to conceal if you can see all edges of a panel, such as a table top. The thin banding won't have to be mitered on the corners. But it is fore fragile and prone to chipping off over time.
Question! I’m trying to restore some teak side tables, but I’m wondering if iron on edge banding is appropriate? Or whether hardwood veneer is the better route? Thanks in advance!
Does anyone edge a 10ft desk? I’ve done a ton of banding, but it would be useful to gain tips on how other handle the size while retaining the quality. I tend to use biscuits with larger 1/2inch edge.
I was with you until the router and massive jig to bring the overhang flush. Why not use a hand plane? So much easier and some very useful exercise at the same time.
I like the hand plane too, feels good to take the shavings and you can hear the radio. Yes you can tear into the veneer but practice and don’t try to plane all the down, use a scraper to finish
Tormek: affinitytool.com/brands/torme...
Video about router table edge banding► th-cam.com/video/HOqwCBNgMys/w-d-xo.html
Duragrit carbide sanding blocks (Use Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS)► duragrit.com/home.php
Ridge Carbide saw blades (Use coupon code SNWJ10)► goo.gl/z8TP0k
Always enjoy your videos and learn loads of things....cheers...rr Normandy, France
I have a 40 tooth Woodworker 2 that's been a workhorse and supposed to be good for crosscuts, but I can see how an 80 tooth would be great for that and cutting miters (which I also do and join with splines so the cut is critical). Can you tell me exactly which RC blade you are using for your 80 tootj? I'd like to add that to my tool set. Thanks! And your video series is great! Subscribed as soon as I found it!
You CANNOT go wrong watching and listening to James's advice.
Thanks @Stumpy Nubs!
I just finished edge banding my new melamine and plywood router table top with solid wood. I followed your advice and it came out awesome! I built the trimming jig. It is SO easy to finally have precise and repeatable results!
Thanks again!
I know a lot about woodworking I’ve been doing it for years but there’s always some small trick that one can pick up and I appreciate looking at this for those ideas
Thank you, Stumpy Nubs! I used the jig idea suggested at 2:20, and it worked extremely well (better than other techniques for flush routing the edge banding that I had tried). I guess the following tip makes sense, but things went better for me when I used my heavy duty router with handles than when I tried it using a trim router. The handle and the weight of the router allowed it to travel accurately along the jig. Thanks again!
That walnut credenza was stunning!
We'll make a video about it later on
I saw a sashimono video where the gentleman use a string to provide clamping pressure for hardwood edging. It was slower process, but is easily removed once the glue dried.
On smaller pieces, you can also apply a stretch of tape the entire length of the piece, a few inches away from the edge band. then clamp it down normally with shorter pieces of tape, overlapping the long tape. once dry, pull off the long tape and all the shorter ones will come off at once.
Great training for us. Thanks for the saw blade information. That helps a lot.
Great tips again! that is why I love your channel so much!
That jig is pretty slick. Thanks.
love the jig idea, thanks.
The simple trimming jig was a great tip that makes trimming with router a much more stable solution. I usually use a hand plane and finish off with a sanding block if required, but maybe I should try your jig for faster trimming.
Good tip James. Especially about the saw blades.👍
Thank You. Great insights. So many valuable tips.
Good timing for the back half of a project. I made cabinets, but used about 3/4" banding and used biscuits to align them. I Didn't get a hidden seam and had issuea with the router wobbling. This will come in handy for the second half of my project. Thanks!
Did you put 3/4 on end grain? Any trouble with cracking apart over the years?
@@sh0cktim3what happened to yours? I’m just about to finish (what I consider a nice walnut piece) a walnut hutch (lower portion) and going to edge band, glue, and then hit it with the router. I’m also using 3/4” inch solid walnut?
@@sh0cktim3oh and I’m edgebanding solid walnut (3/4”) to walnut veneer ply (3/4”)
@@scottlandb6579 shouldn't be a problem at all. I edge banded some solid 3/4 walnut to some floating oak shelves and they're doing fine.
Always good tips, great channel 👍
Thanks for the tip about going along with the grain. I always give you a thumbs up before I watch the video. You've never disappointed to date. (I like to crush a troll, too.)
Great video! Thanks for the video about stacked dados I now know what to look for!
Hi stumpy love your channel .
I love these short videos with tips! Thanks!
[off topic] I finally got a pair of those isotunes. Loved them - past tense. I ran over them with the mower. New pair on the way, so this time I got there from a link from your site. Tried to find the $10 discount code from you, but failed. Oh well. Thanks for your interesting videos. I learn a lot from them.
Just ordered my duragrit hand sander. Thanks!
Needed this info. Thanks!
👍 Thank you James for another great video and tips.
I made my own edge banding out of 3/4 in Birch for a Birch Plywood storage cabinet 2 weeks ago. I didn't even know it was called edge banding until I watched this video. 😅
I've always been a fan of edge banding a plywood "board" with strips that are long grain on the sides, but end grain on the end. To make the end grain edge banding, glue up a panel of the hardwood that's very wide, but not necessarily long, and rip the strips from that, across the grain. No real board has long grain running around all four sides, so end grain banding promotes the illusion it's a real board.
Some advice from the experts and experienced woodworkers please: I have a 30" x 20" oval Maple table top and I want to put a 3/4" walnut edging around it. My first obstacle is the oval shape and the second obstacle is the fact that it is walnut and quite stiff. So steam bending is probably the way to go? Should I cut the walnut into thinner strips, say about 2/16 each and then steam and bend around and clamp to take shape and let it dry out and after they dried out, apply glue and clamp strip by strip - overlapping them, until the desired thickness is reached? (I am quite scared that bending the entire 3/4" - even when steamed, may result in the walnut to crack.)
Thanks for your great videos. Link to tormek doesn’t work. I’ll find it anyway. Just in case you earn any commission though, I thought I’d let you know.
Great tips. Thanks
Good timing, I’m planning a project with some hardwood edgebanding! You said this wouldn’t be structural...but could it be with a decent glueup? My plan was to use 3/4” for the band instead of 1/4”, to reinforce plywood bookshelves (possibly on each side, I haven’t decided that yet)
👍Gracias!, a tu video, maestro carpintero
Love this video
Hi James, I hope this is not a stupid question, but here goes - I have glued my hardwood to my plywood and clamped with blue tape (so far so good), but I cannot really tell which direction I should be routing (the grain seems very straight running in both directions - It's red oak fyi... Part B to this question, can I just use a router table instead of the jig? Thanks for the insight, love the channel
If the grain does not angle in either direction AT ALL, then rout however you like. I recommend a climb-cut with a handheld router for this. You can do this on the router table with some jig setup, but you can not climb-cut on a router table. Here's a tutorial on climb cutting th-cam.com/video/mrE4HyXiwqsh/w-d-xo.htmlttps://th-cam.com/video/mrE4HyXiwqs/w-d-xo.html
Stumpy Nubs thanks so much!!
such good information. thanks!
Thanks for the saw blade reminder. I'm terrible about using the right blade LoL.
This is amazing! I enjoyed this so much! i did too
Hi.. Can I remove old wooden hedge banding without damage for reuse
Thank you.
When is iron on edge banding the best choice and when should I make my own? I have too many projects to guess any more and I need to focus on competition while not having to look back with regret.
Iron on is easier to conceal if you can see all edges of a panel, such as a table top. The thin banding won't have to be mitered on the corners. But it is fore fragile and prone to chipping off over time.
Question! I’m trying to restore some teak side tables, but I’m wondering if iron on edge banding is appropriate? Or whether hardwood veneer is the better route?
Thanks in advance!
A ton of stuff, thanks
what kind of router bit did you use?
très bien
Which hardwood do you recommend for birch plywood edges?
I try to match the veneer on the plywood. I use maple edges for maple or birch plywood, oak edges for oak plywood, etc.
Thanks for sharing that
Nice!
How do you like to handle corners? Mitered, lap, something else?
I try to conceal the corners if I can. Otherwise I miter them.
Great vid. My first comment. Keep up the great video
Break the top edges of the oversized banding before glue-up, this will keep the sharp edge from cutting the masking tape.
Where are the links to the table saw videos that you refer to? Thanks!
Great info. Dump the mustache.
Does anyone edge a 10ft desk? I’ve done a ton of banding, but it would be useful to gain tips on how other handle the size while retaining the quality. I tend to use biscuits with larger 1/2inch edge.
Great work. What drum sander do you use?
I have the Jet 18-36
Question, how to finish the top now ? edge has walnut, what about the top ?
If it's a surface that will be seen (a top rather than a shelf in a cabinet) you would veneer that surface.
@@StumpyNubs Do you u have a video on how to apply veneer by any chance ?
I was with you until the router and massive jig to bring the overhang flush. Why not use a hand plane? So much easier and some very useful exercise at the same time.
Because you risk cutting into the veneer on the last pass or so.
I like the hand plane too, feels good to take the shavings and you can hear the radio. Yes you can tear into the veneer but practice and don’t try to plane all the down, use a scraper to finish
Are you sure about not needing clamps?
Yes.
Your plywood jig needs edgebanding on it
But then he would need a jig to trim the edge banding on the jig, it is an infinite regress! :D
um, I think I'll just use aluminum edging. *sigh*