I love how you go through the "I did this but it didn't work, so I did that" situation. I really appreciate that you show how you can do it wrong and how to fix it if you do. There are more of us very experienced woodworkers who do the same thing. Really like your videos so I subscribed.
I by no means am a strong maker. with that said I watch and listen to many many makers around the world. I saw from a fellow content maker, bourbonmoth. He had the same problem with painting his cabinets. He used a foam roller and it left air bubbles. So he follows it up with a brush stoke, very very light; just to break the bubbles. I have tried this a few times and it works well to remove this stubborn pot marks or orange peel effect. Love your content. Thank you so much
Update: As a few viewers have suggested (thank you!), "laying off" or "tipping off" the paint after applying with a roller would likely have been the solution to the bubbles. Essentially the idea is to run a paint brush very gently across the surface immediately after you have applied the paint with a roller. This gives it a super smooth finish and helps it level out.
I just used this same paint on some built-ins I made. I was recommended to use a microfibre roller, and I got a great finish with two coats, also sanding to 320 in between. And yes, tipping off the paint can help. I didn't use a brush at all, but rather used my roller going in one direction only, and a very light touch (only the weight of the roller itself) to tip off the paint at the end. Hope this helps!
Hi Marie. Thanks for your video! I just completed a similar project (a floating desk) but a month ago, I painted my kitchen cabinets. So, ideally, (I think, never have tried but hear great things about it) you spray paint your cabinet. But like you said, it was cold outside and even spraying outside in the summer could land dust/debris/dirt/bird poop on your project. Spraying indoors would be great but you gotta seal off an area or have a spray paint tent/polywrap a portion of your garage/workshop to catch the off spray. When I painted my kitchen cabinets, I used a 10 mm microfibre paint roller and got the same bumpiness. Terrible. I hate it and need/want to refinish it/fix it. At least, you used a 6 mm roller so your bumps aren't as deep. I just completed my floating desk project and to avoid the bumpiness, I used a foam roller. I usually try to stay away from a foam roller cuz it slides around and I've just always used microfibre but the finish is way better than the microfibre. Very smooth and barely noticeable bumps. So, unless you can spray paint, use a foam roller for next time. Hope that helps!
Andrew says use microfiber roller. Robert says no to microfiber roller!? Who is right?
3 ปีที่แล้ว +2
Unless you try out the innovations, you cannot learn something new. And you are always working to teach innovations. And you always produce innovative studies and ideas. Thank you for sharing. See you. greetings.
One of the problems of micro bubble is painting when temperature is below about 60degrees. May not be due to the paint itself. Also, alkyd paints are good for shelves as it doesn’t cause the stickiness on the surface, especially bookshelves. Great videos. Enjoyed them
FWIW, there is a boat finishing process (I think it is called roll & tip) where you roll on the paint (in sections) the take a "dry" paintbrush and very lightly go over the rolled on paint to get rid of the texture. I discovered this AFTER I used a roller to paint an exterior door. It actually works pretty well if you "tip" the paint after each small section while the paint is still quite wet. Used this method on a different door and was surprised at how good it looked afterward. The brush doesn't have to be completely dry, just don't put it in your paint.
Thanks for the instruction. I have just built two drawer cabinets with 4 drawers each, which will support a 1" plywood top to form a modulat desk/workbench for my daughter, who makes jewellery. I looked up "Finishing drawers - and there you were! Now, I'm going out for wood filler and shellac. Good advice! Many thanks.
You should look into using a card scraper. It leaves a much smoother surface than sandpaper. And it is used to build up a beautiful finish. You apply one layer of varnish or paint, let it fully dry and then use the card scraper to flatten the surface. Then you add another layer, let it dry and scrape. And again etc. Any tiny holes will be filled with varnish or paint. The last layer you apply, you thin the varnish or paint a little. This will make it very easy to apply with a paintbrush. Because it has been thinned, the brush streaks will vanish and the surface will be as smooth as silk. Shellac needs about 8 layers when doing this. Paint depends on the type. My favourite varnish for cabinets, are Epifanes clear or mat finish. It just leaves such a beautiful result. And remember the card scraper has to be sharpened correctly. Else the result will not be good. There are plenty of videos, on TH-cam, which shows how to do it.
Nice tips, thanks for sharing. Never thought of using a card scraper for this application. I would definitely need more experience with it I'm sure before trying this.
@@DIYMontreal I second the card scraper. I have only done it a couple of times, but I find it a lot more satisfying over sanding, as long as the card is clean and sharp. I'm not sure how well it would work on plywood edges, but I enjoyed using it on board faces. Give it a try!
After you roll the paint and it is still wet, use a paint brush to level out the paint. Just lightly brush it in one direction. I do this on interior doors and trim all the time.
@@DIYMontreal no this technique is often used in painting boats and they call it tipping off there. Try to find a brush with badger hair or what they call a laying off brush in paint shops, roll in 1 direction then use the brush the opposite direction to tip off the paint :)
I have just finished painting my router table/cabinet build after watching this video and many more like it. I found that a good quality roller was good for putting the paint on, but left a very poor finish. However the tray and roller kit I bought had a short haired pad, and that did a fantastic job of smoothing the pain after I applied it with the roller.
That blue is super nice and love the contrast with the gold pulls... when you added those my 1st thought was ewe so 90's but with the blue it ties in beautifully. I never used Dap filler ive always just used titebond II on plywood edges apply like a glue up let air dry, sand paint no bleed through
I had this same issue with the bubbles in the paint! It's because even though the layer you painted over is dry, it still holds a little bit of moisture. I used a heater and brought the room temperature up to 24 degrees celsius. I let the wood dry properly for a few hours. Then painted the new coat, and there were no bubbles in the paint!! Was so happy.
Great looking cabinet. Spray painting is always the best. Short pile roller and laying off with a brush good too but needs very good brush with tapered synthetic filaments. I once painted a cabinet 6 times... After a few weeks with the cabinet in use, I stopped caring it wasn't perfect.
Part of the issue may have been the temps. Even with the space heater I imagine it was still pretty cold. The colder the paint the thicker the paint, and less inclined it will be to self-level. Also, while more so for spraying/pouring, you might consider a paint conditioner like Floetrol which can significantly improve the finish as well.
@@DIYMontreal Have you tested with a heat gun? I'm planning to paint some cabinets and just finished resurfacing a bath tub with epoxy. The heat gun helped get all the bubbles out of the epoxy after pouring it on the tub. Wondering if that might be useful when I start painting.
Thank you for your honesty in this video. I often watch these videos and then try to make it in the same way only to find so many mistakes. I appreciate you finding errors and fixing them in the moment. That makes me feel better about my own mistakes! This is my first video with you but I started following you based on your honesty!
I use the Behr enamel all the time in the shop. It’s best sprayed for doors and drawer fronts but carcass and faces come out great when you lightly brush after using the roller. Just drag the tip lightly across the surface and it’s money.
I have been using Sherwin Williams paints and stains professionally for over forty years, you can not go wrong with their permium line of products. Great channel, and keep up the great work.
I always enjoy your videos and find them quite informative. I have the attention span of a gnat but I never find myself fast forwarding. Thanks for sharing!!
I bought a paint shelter (like a tent) that I can put up in my garage to spray paint my stuff now because of how disappointing lol the paints usually are. No overspray because of the tent, but make sure you have a good fume/particle respirator and goggles!
Great video. I have been building cabinets for a look time and one of best cabinet paint I use is Benjamin Moore Advance. Spray or brush the end results have always been fantastic and the customers are always pleased.
In the past I've had good luck spraying cabinets with airless sprayers but in more recent years I couldn't get a smooth finish. I've heard of additives for the paint that will allow it to flow a little bit and self level after being applied. We had professional cabinets installed in our kitchen and they were sprayed with oil-based paint which gives a much better finish and they seem to be very durable.
I've used the same paint on cabinets with a pneumatic sparyer (for cars acutually), and it came out flat as a mirror! I only had to thin the paint a little bit (maybe 10-1) and it was flawless! I've also used the alkyd paint you showed with good results, but not as good as the Behr Cabinet Paint. I just wanted to share my experience with the paints.
I really like this video because I’ve done almost the same steps to cover the plywood edges. I also use all purpose joint compound to cover the edges, prime and paint and I’m very satisfied with the results. I used chalk paint and paste-wax as the top finish on one of my projects and result was awesome. Polycrylic is also my favorite product for drawer interiors. Thanks for sharing this video!!
Pick up the flat, 2-element radiant heater from Princess. You’ll love it. Hang it just above head height pointing down slightly. Instant heat. It warms you and your tools - not the air. Much more efficient power wise. I’ve spent hours in my cold garage waiting for a space heater to even make any difference at all. Now I can flip one or 2 radiant heaters on and start work immediately. Now I don’t mind working on my garage shop even in Jan and Feb.
Marie, I recently painted a plywood cabinet for my drill press. I used interior latex with a flac roller and i got a smooth finish. You may have some issues with the formulation of paint that you used but in my limited experience the flac roller produced a smooth finish. I got my roller at Lowes. Thank you for this video and best regards.
I recently had a paint failure with Behr Ceiling Paint... micro bubbles. Sprayed with airless, but further testing revealed that it was happening with a roller too. When I went to return the paint I noticed 3 others had recently been returned also. It sucks, but new paint was the solution.
I use that exact same trim and cabinet paint and I've found the same problem with bubbles. One thing I've noticed is that they seem to happen when I've shaken the paint (or had it mixed at the store) instead of stirring it. I'm sure that the paint brush trick would help as well, but a slow, consistent stir instead of a vigorous shake should fix the majority of your issues. Cabinets came out looking great!
I just finished a cabinet with white Sherwin Williams Emerald cabinet and trim enamel. I used a very short nap non-foam roller. It is amazing stuff and gives you a fantastic finish. Almost like it was sprayed on. It is expensive at about $75 per gallon, but it will save you a lot of time.
I have a flexible 4" putty knife and a 1 1/2" putty knife. I load up the 4" with enough to finish the task. Also, using a tack cloth prior to applying finishes is helpful. It avoids adding moisture to the work piece.
Thank you for the tips. I just finished making my first drawer base and will definitely use your instructions for the wood filler. I plan on spraying my wood because I didn't want any brush lines or roller markings. I don't care the for orange peel look.
I'm using that same paint on my kitchen cabinets. I dilute and then spray with my Earlex hvlp system and it lays down very nicely. My cabinets are plywood with pine face frames.
I used the exact color and brand paint you used, on my cabinets. Instead I used the oil based zinzer primer. I did no sanding and used a paint sprayer. The coat came out very smooth. I did this on my old cabinets in my kitchen. It turned out better than I thought it would. The trick may be spraying this paint rather than rolling.
Second time home owner (but first time garage owner) here, from a long line of home builders; I swear: sawdust is in my veins. Now that I've got a garage (two car, and one tiny hatchback), oh my goodness, I feel like I'm falling into a dream. Maybe a bit of an overwhelming one, but a dream nonetheless. I am so tickled to have found your channel! I love your personality, presentation, and teaching style. Have you ever done any consulting work? Like, could I hire you for a 1-2hr web consult to go over my skills, ambitions, etc., and have you help me come up with a gameplan for a home shop? The more I watch, the more I want (go figure) - but I need some help figuring out how to plan for where I'm at now, but in a way that can scale as time and budgets allow. Regardless, excellent, excellent info all around and thank you so much for sharing your brand of you with the world!
Its very good paint I,ve used it to paint several kitchen cabinets including over stain you have to apply very thin coats and use cabinet rollers and it looks like its sprayed on and cold garage might ply a part also.
A lot of great thoughts Marie. Sorry about your Behr experience. I kept wondering if it still wasn't too cold in the shop? Really like the Blue you picked. I'm a big Behr fan, but I had never used that line of paint. Probably won't now either. Keep makin, and be well.
Regarding the paint finish, I think there’s 2 issues here as I’ve been doing research to achieve a smooth finish on cabinets as well. 1) The dry time on the paint. A longer dry time, although inconvenient to do multiple coats in one day, will allow brush strokes and bumps to even out. 2) It seems to roll a smooth finish, mohair rollers are the way to go. Also, a longer dry time and a soft-bristle brush could do the trick as well. In the end, spraying really is the best way to achieve a glass-like finish. Thank you for the thorough video. I have an upcoming project making a kitchen cabinet with drawers.
For water based products applied with a roller, it's best to use a 4mm microfibre, gives a perfect finish, the foam rollers always give that bubbly finish, I never use them because of that reason.
Looks pretty great, in BC at Sherwin Williams we can get emerald eurethane for trim. Works wonders for birch plywood. Needs good backfilling and sanding but is beautiful. Cute time is 28 days though.....
Bonjour, super nouvelle vidéo. Pour la peinture sur bois, le seul résultat qui à été vraiment au top pour moi, c'est : Apprêt et peinture auto au pistolet et là j'ai fini par obtenir un résultat vraiment bluffant. ( Porte des meubles de ma cuisine qui a déjà 15 ans et toujours aussi propre à l'heure actuelle. Si ça peut aider. Merci pour votre vidéo et vivement la prochaine.
Oui en effet, le pistolet est toujours là meilleure solution... Malheureusement l'hiver dans le garage ce n'est pas évident et j'ai voulu éviter... Mais voilà ce que ça donne 😕
I literally just used this paint with the same results. Cold garage as well. I did do a couple test pieces AFTER the cabinet carcass 🤦🏻♂️. I found that rolling with a 6mm nap 6 inch roller, then coming back over the wet paint with a foam roller improved the appearance. Still not as smooth as spraying.
Sucks to hear that, but at least I'm not alone I guess? It seems you were on the right track but the trick is to go over the paint with a light stroke using a paint brush to even it out.
Beautiful work, Marie! Really well done! 😃 That kind of finish is called "orange skin" by some car's painters... You know? What they do is to sand it with a really fine sandpaper and apply a varnish over it. But I don't know if it would work for you. 😕 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
orange peel is the term for the cracked surface but I also noticed dimples on the first coat called cissing or fish eyes. normally attributed to contamination. It might help to wiped the wood with a degreaser like acetone or alcohol. perhaps poorly mixed paint may be the culprit.
I feel your pain with that finish. I experienced something similar when using Farrow and Ball (UK) paint. I now always use a paint conditioner called 'FLOETROL' for waterborne finishes. This seems to work well with the acrylic eggshell finish I now use ( Johnstones in UK ). It seems to assist with self levelling and allows you to put on a thinner coat than 'straight from the can' and work out any bubbling . Personally I've always struggled with getting the right roller for the job.😢
A few people have mentioned Floetrol. I was hesitant to add more fluidity to this paint seeing how watery it is already but maybe it would help with the self-leveling. Or maybe a warmer shop... Or maybe not using a a foam roller.... Or maybe better paint!!
@@DIYMontreal great video! So I tend to use a mohair roller with short pile, which is I think similar to what you used on third coat. With sanding back to 320 I can see you are looking for a smoother top finish, in my experience oil based with roller or spray are really the only way to get that. But from here it looks consistent and I rather like the slight texture?
I,ve used pyramid stands like these, i think called painters pyramid and grabbers, I like them for staining. I used them the opposite with point down to table, they had little rubber grip feet on the base and worked well to hold my product in place. I guess I used them wrong but it worked so good. Very Nice video. :)
I think it's the paint. I finally used General Finishes Milk paint diluted 10 to 15 percent. Used a foam roller using as little pressure that I could while rolling. Not as good as spraying, but close. Then topped with general finishes poly for durability.
I've just watched your video, but don't have time to go through all the comments, so if I'm repeating something I apologise. I'm a painter by trade. Whenever I want to apply enamel to woodwork, such as doors or cabinetry I use a mohair roller. They have a short nap and when you lay the paint off in the same direction it leaves a silky smooth finish that is hard to differentiate from spray paint if done right (particularly if you're using gloss paint). Thanks for sharing your video
I have a tip for you when using the roller with paint Add a little bit of water like 5% or 10% after you apply with the paint roller use another roller but dry and go over it. It will give you a good finish like if you had it sprayed. it works for me especially when it's cold and raining you don't want to use your sprayer. Try it use a piece of scrap.. But overall you did a great job you could use the edge banding also for painting
I love your channel and I love your shop. I'm moving to a new house and I'll have a one car carage space for my work space. I'd love to see a virtual tour of your shop.
How well does this stuff hold up? Do you have any one year, three year five year video showing how stuff you have built with plywood has held up over time?
He sure does! I so wish he had posted that video before I painted my cabinet! He does a great demo of laying off using a paint brush after applying with a roller.
Really great video. That is a beautiful color. Very much like the color I am thinking of using for my kitchen cabinets. Do you mind me asking what color it is? Thanks so much. Take care.
I used the same paint as Marie, using a regular roller, than a foam brush, a foam roller and even Krylon spray can and sanding in between with unacceptable results until I used Behr Oil based enamel from Home Depot with a foam roller. I used satin finish, the shine/finish did not change during the drying process, BUT IT TAKES ABOUT 5-7 DAYS TO DRY, patience, patience but in the end it is flawless no holes or pit marks, perfect finish and easy to paint. Best thing was just like polyurethane, it even out or fills out the roller marks on the surface as you paint. I had a 72"x 28" (plywood) desktop with black top to match other thing in the room. Black top is very unforgiving, Ugh.
I've had good luck applying/spraying water based polyurethane over latex paint. I use a cheap sprayer and a compressor. Water clean up is wonderful. I should add that I spray General Finishes water based polyurethane. It's a bit expensive but worth it. With a bit of practice you'll get professional results. I was also thinking about getting the Graco handheld airless paint sprayer. The reviews for that are mixed but spraying latex right out of the can without having to thin it is nice.
Just curious how your drawer finish is holding up. The label for Zinsser Shellac specifically says it’s not recommended for use as a sealer under polyurethane finishes. They recommend Zinsser Bulls-Eye SealCoat.
I Couldn't find the de-waxed Zinsser sanding sealer in my area so i used waxed shellac. I know it says not compatible, but I saw a test the woodwhisperer did years ago, and he didn't find any issue. My drawers have been holding up beautifully for about 2 years now.
Use Benjamin Moore, Corotech "Command" waterborne enamel. No primer needed. Just paint, sand, and paint. It has the finish you are looking for. No bubbles or texture besides the texture of the wood. 3 coats for the best finish. Dries super fast between coats in 15 mins!
Did you consider the temperature may have effected the bubbles? A hair dryer or heat gun probably would have removed them. I hope this helps in the future. TYSVM for your content!
Worked as a painter for 5 years. Usually using either of the rollers for enamel is more of a touch up situation. Spraying is the way to go. I know, annoying but I walk into houses and building and I can tell you when they cared about the finish of their product or not.
I love how you go through the "I did this but it didn't work, so I did that" situation. I really appreciate that you show how you can do it wrong and how to fix it if you do. There are more of us very experienced woodworkers who do the same thing. Really like your videos so I subscribed.
Epistemological honesty!
That finish on that plywood with shellac and polyurethane looks amazing!
I by no means am a strong maker. with that said I watch and listen to many many makers around the world. I saw from a fellow content maker, bourbonmoth. He had the same problem with painting his cabinets. He used a foam roller and it left air bubbles. So he follows it up with a brush stoke, very very light; just to break the bubbles. I have tried this a few times and it works well to remove this stubborn pot marks or orange peel effect. Love your content. Thank you so much
Yeah I saw his video too and went Doh! Wish he had posted that a few weeks earlier... Great tips in the video.
Update: As a few viewers have suggested (thank you!), "laying off" or "tipping off" the paint after applying with a roller would likely have been the solution to the bubbles. Essentially the idea is to run a paint brush very gently across the surface immediately after you have applied the paint with a roller. This gives it a super smooth finish and helps it level out.
I just used this same paint on some built-ins I made. I was recommended to use a microfibre roller, and I got a great finish with two coats, also sanding to 320 in between. And yes, tipping off the paint can help. I didn't use a brush at all, but rather used my roller going in one direction only, and a very light touch (only the weight of the roller itself) to tip off the paint at the end. Hope this helps!
@@andrewjorgensen5568 what Kind of Paint did you use? :)
@@djVania08 The same paint.
Hi Marie. Thanks for your video! I just completed a similar project (a floating desk) but a month ago, I painted my kitchen cabinets. So, ideally, (I think, never have tried but hear great things about it) you spray paint your cabinet. But like you said, it was cold outside and even spraying outside in the summer could land dust/debris/dirt/bird poop on your project. Spraying indoors would be great but you gotta seal off an area or have a spray paint tent/polywrap a portion of your garage/workshop to catch the off spray. When I painted my kitchen cabinets, I used a 10 mm microfibre paint roller and got the same bumpiness. Terrible. I hate it and need/want to refinish it/fix it. At least, you used a 6 mm roller so your bumps aren't as deep. I just completed my floating desk project and to avoid the bumpiness, I used a foam roller. I usually try to stay away from a foam roller cuz it slides around and I've just always used microfibre but the finish is way better than the microfibre. Very smooth and barely noticeable bumps. So, unless you can spray paint, use a foam roller for next time. Hope that helps!
Andrew says use microfiber roller. Robert says no to microfiber roller!? Who is right?
Unless you try out the innovations, you cannot learn something new. And you are always working to teach innovations. And you always produce innovative studies and ideas. Thank you for sharing. See you. greetings.
I appreciate that!
One of the problems of micro bubble is painting when temperature is below about 60degrees. May not be due to the paint itself. Also, alkyd paints are good for shelves as it doesn’t cause the stickiness on the surface, especially bookshelves. Great videos. Enjoyed them
FWIW, there is a boat finishing process (I think it is called roll & tip) where you roll on the paint (in sections) the take a "dry" paintbrush and very lightly go over the rolled on paint to get rid of the texture. I discovered this AFTER I used a roller to paint an exterior door. It actually works pretty well if you "tip" the paint after each small section while the paint is still quite wet. Used this method on a different door and was surprised at how good it looked afterward. The brush doesn't have to be completely dry, just don't put it in your paint.
Wow! Thank you for your help tip!
Thanks for the instruction. I have just built two drawer cabinets with 4 drawers each, which will support a 1" plywood top to form a modulat desk/workbench for my daughter, who makes jewellery. I looked up "Finishing drawers - and there you were! Now, I'm going out for wood filler and shellac. Good advice! Many thanks.
I’ve found parchment paper between the iron and edge band works great. Thanks for sharing, great work!
You should look into using a card scraper. It leaves a much smoother surface than sandpaper. And it is used to build up a beautiful finish. You apply one layer of varnish or paint, let it fully dry and then use the card scraper to flatten the surface. Then you add another layer, let it dry and scrape. And again etc. Any tiny holes will be filled with varnish or paint. The last layer you apply, you thin the varnish or paint a little. This will make it very easy to apply with a paintbrush. Because it has been thinned, the brush streaks will vanish and the surface will be as smooth as silk. Shellac needs about 8 layers when doing this. Paint depends on the type. My favourite varnish for cabinets, are Epifanes clear or mat finish. It just leaves such a beautiful result. And remember the card scraper has to be sharpened correctly. Else the result will not be good. There are plenty of videos, on TH-cam, which shows how to do it.
Nice tips, thanks for sharing. Never thought of using a card scraper for this application. I would definitely need more experience with it I'm sure before trying this.
@@DIYMontreal I second the card scraper. I have only done it a couple of times, but I find it a lot more satisfying over sanding, as long as the card is clean and sharp. I'm not sure how well it would work on plywood edges, but I enjoyed using it on board faces. Give it a try!
@@nefariousyawn Will do! I have a card scraper sitting in the package still.... It's about time I tried it out.
After you roll the paint and it is still wet, use a paint brush to level out the paint. Just lightly brush it in one direction. I do this on interior doors and trim all the time.
Ok interesting, but won't the brush marks show?
@@DIYMontreal I was using a thicker latex and it did not show any brush marks.
@@WoodnMetalShoppe OK I see. I'll give it a try on my second cabinet and see.
@@DIYMontreal no this technique is often used in painting boats and they call it tipping off there. Try to find a brush with badger hair or what they call a laying off brush in paint shops, roll in 1 direction then use the brush the opposite direction to tip off the paint :)
@@DIYMontreal technology in the paint supposed to level itself out.
Great video, Marie! I love that you show both the successes and failures and explain your thought process the entire way through!
this is legit one of the best reviews on finishing for a home gamer with minimal tools
i love that blue and gold... i think leaving some plywood exposed too would've added great contrast.
I have just finished painting my router table/cabinet build after watching this video and many more like it. I found that a good quality roller was good for putting the paint on, but left a very poor finish. However the tray and roller kit I bought had a short haired pad, and that did a fantastic job of smoothing the pain after I applied it with the roller.
That blue is super nice and love the contrast with the gold pulls... when you added those my 1st thought was ewe so 90's but with the blue it ties in beautifully. I never used Dap filler ive always just used titebond II on plywood edges apply like a glue up let air dry, sand paint no bleed through
Damn... spent 12 minutes watching and it felt like 3 time really flies when your enjoying something
I had this same issue with the bubbles in the paint! It's because even though the layer you painted over is dry, it still holds a little bit of moisture. I used a heater and brought the room temperature up to 24 degrees celsius. I let the wood dry properly for a few hours. Then painted the new coat, and there were no bubbles in the paint!! Was so happy.
Great looking cabinet. Spray painting is always the best. Short pile roller and laying off with a brush good too but needs very good brush with tapered synthetic filaments. I once painted a cabinet 6 times... After a few weeks with the cabinet in use, I stopped caring it wasn't perfect.
Those dark blue color is amazingly beautiful
Love your channel!
I'm from Ontario and love that you are Canadian
Part of the issue may have been the temps. Even with the space heater I imagine it was still pretty cold. The colder the paint the thicker the paint, and less inclined it will be to self-level. Also, while more so for spraying/pouring, you might consider a paint conditioner like Floetrol which can significantly improve the finish as well.
It's odd because I found this paint so watery. But temp may be the issue indeed if it affect the self-leveling...
@@DIYMontreal Have you tested with a heat gun? I'm planning to paint some cabinets and just finished resurfacing a bath tub with epoxy. The heat gun helped get all the bubbles out of the epoxy after pouring it on the tub. Wondering if that might be useful when I start painting.
Thank you for your honesty in this video. I often watch these videos and then try to make it in the same way only to find so many mistakes. I appreciate you finding errors and fixing them in the moment. That makes me feel better about my own mistakes! This is my first video with you but I started following you based on your honesty!
Agreed. Nice to see the imperfections we all experience at some point. Excellent tips btw.
I use the Behr enamel all the time in the shop. It’s best sprayed for doors and drawer fronts but carcass and faces come out great when you lightly brush after using the roller. Just drag the tip lightly across the surface and it’s money.
I have been using Sherwin Williams paints and stains professionally for over forty years, you can not go wrong with their permium line of products. Great channel, and keep up the great work.
I always enjoy your videos and find them quite informative. I have the attention span of a gnat but I never find myself fast forwarding. Thanks for sharing!!
Awesome thanks! It's great to hear that. Definitely don't want to be boring!
I bought a paint shelter (like a tent) that I can put up in my garage to spray paint my stuff now because of how disappointing lol the paints usually are. No overspray because of the tent, but make sure you have a good fume/particle respirator and goggles!
Great video. I have been building cabinets for a look time and one of best cabinet paint I use is Benjamin Moore Advance. Spray or brush the end results have always been fantastic and the customers are always pleased.
In the past I've had good luck spraying cabinets with airless sprayers but in more recent years I couldn't get a smooth finish. I've heard of additives for the paint that will allow it to flow a little bit and self level after being applied. We had professional cabinets installed in our kitchen and they were sprayed with oil-based paint which gives a much better finish and they seem to be very durable.
I've used the same paint on cabinets with a pneumatic sparyer (for cars acutually), and it came out flat as a mirror! I only had to thin the paint a little bit (maybe 10-1) and it was flawless! I've also used the alkyd paint you showed with good results, but not as good as the Behr Cabinet Paint. I just wanted to share my experience with the paints.
I really like this video because I’ve done almost the same steps to cover the plywood edges. I also use all purpose joint compound to cover the edges, prime and paint and I’m very satisfied with the results. I used chalk paint and paste-wax as the top finish on one of my projects and result was awesome. Polycrylic is also my favorite product for drawer interiors. Thanks for sharing this video!!
I felt your pain when you said "this sucks!" . Thanks for leaving this part of the process in the video.
The best video explaining everything! Wow! Thank you so much.
Pick up the flat, 2-element radiant heater from Princess. You’ll love it.
Hang it just above head height pointing down slightly. Instant heat. It warms you and your tools - not the air. Much more efficient power wise.
I’ve spent hours in my cold garage waiting for a space heater to even make any difference at all. Now I can flip one or 2 radiant heaters on and start work immediately. Now I don’t mind working on my garage shop even in Jan and Feb.
@Hello Paul how are you doing?
Always use mohair (knapped) roller for oil or alkyd paints. Foam roller for latex.
Marie, I recently painted a plywood cabinet for my drill press. I used interior latex with a flac roller and i got a smooth finish. You may have some issues with the formulation of paint that you used but in my limited experience the flac roller produced a smooth finish. I got my roller at Lowes. Thank you for this video and best regards.
I recently had a paint failure with Behr Ceiling Paint... micro bubbles. Sprayed with airless, but further testing revealed that it was happening with a roller too. When I went to return the paint I noticed 3 others had recently been returned also. It sucks, but new paint was the solution.
I use that exact same trim and cabinet paint and I've found the same problem with bubbles. One thing I've noticed is that they seem to happen when I've shaken the paint (or had it mixed at the store) instead of stirring it. I'm sure that the paint brush trick would help as well, but a slow, consistent stir instead of a vigorous shake should fix the majority of your issues. Cabinets came out looking great!
good job! even if you didn't want to achieve this, I really like the orange peel finish 😅
That plaid wool is too nice a jacket for me to even visit the shop in.
sherwin williams emerald urethane is an excellent furniture and cabinet paint. Great video!
I just finished a cabinet with white Sherwin Williams Emerald cabinet and trim enamel. I used a very short nap non-foam roller. It is amazing stuff and gives you a fantastic finish. Almost like it was sprayed on. It is expensive at about $75 per gallon, but it will save you a lot of time.
I have a flexible 4" putty knife and a 1 1/2" putty knife. I load up the 4" with enough to finish the task.
Also, using a tack cloth prior to applying finishes is helpful. It avoids adding moisture to the work piece.
Thank you for the tips. I just finished making my first drawer base and will definitely use your instructions for the wood filler. I plan on spraying my wood because I didn't want any brush lines or roller markings. I don't care the for orange peel look.
I'm using that same paint on my kitchen cabinets. I dilute and then spray with my Earlex hvlp system and it lays down very nicely. My cabinets are plywood with pine face frames.
Diluted?! Wow, this stuff is already so liquid I can't even imagine. But good to know. I'll likely try spraying next time.
I used the exact color and brand paint you used, on my cabinets. Instead I used the oil based zinzer primer. I did no sanding and used a paint sprayer. The coat came out very smooth. I did this on my old cabinets in my kitchen. It turned out better than I thought it would. The trick may be spraying this paint rather than rolling.
hi Would you be able to tell me the exact shade code for that colour as had been having struggle finding the right shade
@@GLOBHUBINDIA if you look at the paint colors that Bear makes(found at Home Depot) it’s the navy blue. It’s the only darker blue color they have.
@@chrisdewild9627 Thank you very much!!
Second time home owner (but first time garage owner) here, from a long line of home builders; I swear: sawdust is in my veins. Now that I've got a garage (two car, and one tiny hatchback), oh my goodness, I feel like I'm falling into a dream. Maybe a bit of an overwhelming one, but a dream nonetheless. I am so tickled to have found your channel! I love your personality, presentation, and teaching style. Have you ever done any consulting work? Like, could I hire you for a 1-2hr web consult to go over my skills, ambitions, etc., and have you help me come up with a gameplan for a home shop? The more I watch, the more I want (go figure) - but I need some help figuring out how to plan for where I'm at now, but in a way that can scale as time and budgets allow. Regardless, excellent, excellent info all around and thank you so much for sharing your brand of you with the world!
Great video, love that you didn't edit out the learning curve. Got a new sub👍
Its very good paint I,ve used it to paint several kitchen cabinets including over stain you have to apply very thin coats and use cabinet rollers and it looks like its sprayed on and cold garage might ply a part also.
They turned out great thanks for sharing
A lot of great thoughts Marie. Sorry about your Behr experience. I kept wondering if it still wasn't too cold in the shop? Really like the Blue you picked. I'm a big Behr fan, but I had never used that line of paint. Probably won't now either. Keep makin, and be well.
Regarding the paint finish, I think there’s 2 issues here as I’ve been doing research to achieve a smooth finish on cabinets as well. 1) The dry time on the paint. A longer dry time, although inconvenient to do multiple coats in one day, will allow brush strokes and bumps to even out. 2) It seems to roll a smooth finish, mohair rollers are the way to go. Also, a longer dry time and a soft-bristle brush could do the trick as well.
In the end, spraying really is the best way to achieve a glass-like finish. Thank you for the thorough video. I have an upcoming project making a kitchen cabinet with drawers.
I'm still looking for the dryer or jar you are painting, but the filing cabinet came out great
For water based products applied with a roller, it's best to use a 4mm microfibre, gives a perfect finish, the foam rollers always give that bubbly finish, I never use them because of that reason.
Looks pretty great, in BC at Sherwin Williams we can get emerald eurethane for trim. Works wonders for birch plywood. Needs good backfilling and sanding but is beautiful. Cute time is 28 days though.....
really good video, informative and to the point and no waffle. Thanks Alan UK
Very good performance, will copy your method, thanks for sharing
Bonjour, super nouvelle vidéo. Pour la peinture sur bois, le seul résultat qui à été vraiment au top pour moi, c'est : Apprêt et peinture auto au pistolet et là j'ai fini par obtenir un résultat vraiment bluffant. ( Porte des meubles de ma cuisine qui a déjà 15 ans et toujours aussi propre à l'heure actuelle. Si ça peut aider. Merci pour votre vidéo et vivement la prochaine.
Oui en effet, le pistolet est toujours là meilleure solution... Malheureusement l'hiver dans le garage ce n'est pas évident et j'ai voulu éviter... Mais voilà ce que ça donne 😕
I literally just used this paint with the same results. Cold garage as well. I did do a couple test pieces AFTER the cabinet carcass 🤦🏻♂️. I found that rolling with a 6mm nap 6 inch roller, then coming back over the wet paint with a foam roller improved the appearance. Still not as smooth as spraying.
Sucks to hear that, but at least I'm not alone I guess? It seems you were on the right track but the trick is to go over the paint with a light stroke using a paint brush to even it out.
Great quality work there!
Beautiful work, Marie! Really well done! 😃
That kind of finish is called "orange skin" by some car's painters... You know?
What they do is to sand it with a really fine sandpaper and apply a varnish over it. But I don't know if it would work for you. 😕
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I call it orange peel! And maybe a clear coat would solve the issue indeed, but after primer + 3 coats I know when to call it done ;)
orange peel is the term for the cracked surface but I also noticed dimples on the first coat called cissing or fish eyes. normally attributed to contamination. It might help to wiped the wood with a degreaser like acetone or alcohol. perhaps poorly mixed paint may be the culprit.
Life-changing product!
No edge banding for me. Excellent video, thanks.
Fantastic ! Thank you . Greatly appreciated for showing this video
I feel your pain with that finish. I experienced something similar when using Farrow and Ball (UK) paint. I now always use a paint conditioner called 'FLOETROL' for waterborne finishes. This seems to work well with the acrylic eggshell finish I now use ( Johnstones in UK ). It seems to assist with self levelling and allows you to put on a thinner coat than 'straight from the can' and work out any bubbling . Personally I've always struggled with getting the right roller for the job.😢
A few people have mentioned Floetrol. I was hesitant to add more fluidity to this paint seeing how watery it is already but maybe it would help with the self-leveling. Or maybe a warmer shop... Or maybe not using a a foam roller.... Or maybe better paint!!
@@DIYMontreal great video! So I tend to use a mohair roller with short pile, which is I think similar to what you used on third coat. With sanding back to 320 I can see you are looking for a smoother top finish, in my experience oil based with roller or spray are really the only way to get that. But from here it looks consistent and I rather like the slight texture?
SW Emerald paint is good for this job. I use a 6" Purdy roller, the green one with short nap for enamel paints when I make painted furniture.
I like to wear a glove on my left hand when edge banding you can push the banding down right behind the iron it really helps
Interesting! I'll try that next time.
I,ve used pyramid stands like these, i think called painters pyramid and grabbers, I like them for staining. I used them the opposite with point down to table, they had little rubber grip feet on the base and worked well to hold my product in place. I guess I used them wrong but it worked so good. Very Nice video. :)
love that blue.. same color as my house siding.. Pacific blue
Perfect perfect video!! Exactly what I needed. Thanks so much
Really Good job 💪🏻 i love this finish.
I think it's the paint. I finally used General Finishes Milk paint diluted 10 to 15 percent. Used a foam roller using as little pressure that I could while rolling. Not as good as spraying, but close. Then topped with general finishes poly for durability.
Will check that out for next time. Always wanted to give milk paint a try.
Blue looks good.
Awesome content!
I've just watched your video, but don't have time to go through all the comments, so if I'm repeating something I apologise. I'm a painter by trade. Whenever I want to apply enamel to woodwork, such as doors or cabinetry I use a mohair roller. They have a short nap and when you lay the paint off in the same direction it leaves a silky smooth finish that is hard to differentiate from spray paint if done right (particularly if you're using gloss paint). Thanks for sharing your video
Lavoro stupendo! Bravissima
Un saluto dall'Italia 🤗
Great tips and insights! Will try the DAP grain filler and shellac.
Awesome, enjoy!
I have a tip for you when using the roller with paint Add a little bit of water like 5% or 10% after you apply with the paint roller use another roller but dry and go over it. It will give you a good finish like if you had it sprayed. it works for me especially when it's cold and raining you don't want to use your sprayer. Try it use a piece of scrap.. But overall you did a great job you could use the edge banding also for painting
Very nice and informative video 👍 Langevin Forest , recently started selling prefinish plywood. They have many thicknesses in 4'x8'format.
That's great news! Thanks so much for sharing 👌
Excellent advice and tips! thank you for this video.
You bet 👍
I love your channel and I love your shop. I'm moving to a new house and I'll have a one car carage space for my work space. I'd love to see a virtual tour of your shop.
Thank you so much.
Exactly what i was looking for
Nice job thanks
Bien, tout est élégant et qualitatif.
Merci
thank you for the video! learned a lot good experience!
How well does this stuff hold up? Do you have any one year, three year five year video showing how stuff you have built with plywood has held up over time?
Bourbon Moth Woodworking has some great tips for painting cabinets in his last cabinet build video.
He sure does! I so wish he had posted that video before I painted my cabinet! He does a great demo of laying off using a paint brush after applying with a roller.
@@DIYMontreal My Dad was a professional painter and decorator and always brushed after rolling, but I never knew it applied to wood as well.
Such Great info..Thanks!
Really great video. That is a beautiful color. Very much like the color I am thinking of using for my kitchen cabinets. Do you mind me asking what color it is? Thanks so much. Take care.
Yes please agree with Sandy, is a beautiful color. What is it called?
Beautiful cabinet!!
Thank you!
I had the same result using a 1/4 nap foam roller and oil based paint. Foam rollers probably have a place but I have yet to find it.
I used the same paint as Marie, using a regular roller, than a foam brush, a foam roller and even Krylon spray can and sanding in between with unacceptable results until I used Behr Oil based enamel from Home Depot with a foam roller. I used satin finish, the shine/finish did not change during the drying process, BUT IT TAKES ABOUT 5-7 DAYS TO DRY, patience, patience but in the end it is flawless no holes or pit marks, perfect finish and easy to paint. Best thing was just like polyurethane, it even out or fills out the roller marks on the surface as you paint. I had a 72"x 28" (plywood) desktop with black top to match other thing in the room. Black top is very unforgiving, Ugh.
Forgot to mention i used brush too, that left brush marks, maybe my brush was not the right one, but nevertheless oil worked for me.
I actually like the texture
Great tips. Thank you for making this.
Bravo great job Marie.
I've had good luck applying/spraying water based polyurethane over latex paint. I use a cheap sprayer and a compressor. Water clean up is wonderful.
I should add that I spray General Finishes water based polyurethane. It's a bit expensive but worth it. With a bit of practice you'll get professional results. I was also thinking about getting the Graco handheld airless paint sprayer. The reviews for that are mixed but spraying latex right out of the can without having to thin it is nice.
Just curious how your drawer finish is holding up. The label for Zinsser Shellac specifically says it’s not recommended for use as a sealer under polyurethane finishes. They recommend Zinsser Bulls-Eye SealCoat.
I Couldn't find the de-waxed Zinsser sanding sealer in my area so i used waxed shellac. I know it says not compatible, but I saw a test the woodwhisperer did years ago, and he didn't find any issue. My drawers have been holding up beautifully for about 2 years now.
Use Benjamin Moore, Corotech "Command" waterborne enamel. No primer needed. Just paint, sand, and paint. It has the finish you are looking for. No bubbles or texture besides the texture of the wood. 3 coats for the best finish. Dries super fast between coats in 15 mins!
Did you consider the temperature may have effected the bubbles? A hair dryer or heat gun probably would have removed them. I hope this helps in the future. TYSVM for your content!
Worked as a painter for 5 years. Usually using either of the rollers for enamel is more of a touch up situation. Spraying is the way to go. I know, annoying but I walk into houses and building and I can tell you when they cared about the finish of their product or not.
Awesome work by the way👍🏻💥👊🏼
Thank you!