Stuff you should know before trying to edge band plywood
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Some pro tips about applying iron-on edge banding that will save you a lot of frustration.
Links to stuff mentioned in this video►
Video about 1/4-inch hardwood edge banding: • How to make hardwood e...
Video about beveled edge banding: • Make plywood look like...
Laminate file: amzn.to/389jQls
Flush-trimming pliers: amzn.to/3mrjLP3
Square end trimmer: amzn.to/2Kb1YP5
Edge trimmer: amzn.to/3mrjjjP
Laminate roller: amzn.to/38mJXpp
Edge banding iron: amzn.to/37nUcKF
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Links to stuff mentioned in this video►
Hedgehog Featherboards: amzn.to/3b4KcVl
Video about 1/4-inch hardwood edge banding: th-cam.com/video/Tiv2phTkZ0s/w-d-xo.html
Video about beveled edge banding: th-cam.com/video/HOqwCBNgMys/w-d-xo.html
Laminate file: amzn.to/389jQls
Flush-trimming pliers: amzn.to/3mrjLP3
Square end trimmer: amzn.to/2Kb1YP5
Edge trimmer: amzn.to/3mrjjjP
Laminate roller: amzn.to/38mJXpp
Edge banding iron: amzn.to/37nUcKF
(We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)
Do you have a link to the edge banding you use? not sure if i missed it somewhere or not. Thanks!
As a cabinetmaker; I have applied pre-glued edge banding for years. I would suggest using a metal roller instead of a laminate j-roller. The harder surface pushes the glue into the wood better and the glue cools faster.
I do not care for the way too big for the job aspect of a full sized iron. Nor do I like the offset handles of traditional edge banding iron. Years ago I purchased a "travel iron" in the luggage section of a department store and have never looked back. Compared to a full size iron the travel version is much easier to control. Think of the difference in control between a 1/2 sheet and a 1/4 sheet finish sander. Using this midget appliance I've ironed on thousands of feet of edgebanding.
I second this. I use my old travel iron from my college days. Got it as it was small and easy to store and found later on that it works great for edge banding
Some of my favorite woodworking channels seem to tire of the constant pressure to produce new content week after week. Not this one. James Hamilton appears to handle that production stress as easily as he works wood. It means a lot to me.
The pre-glued edge banding uses a soft adhesive formula which creates squeeze out and is gummy to remove. An efficient craftsman created technique is to coat raw wood edging and the plywood edge with 2 or more coats of modern polyvinyl adhesive (wood glues) and let dry. Using an iron heat press the edging strip onto the plywood edge as one does with adhesive backed commercial edging. When cool trim as normal. The advantage is the polyvinyl edge glue line is undetectable and extremely strong. I never used commercial adhesive edging after trying this shop created technique. Of interest this technique also works with melamine edging. I would suggest using paper between the iron and the edging to protect against possible iron burn marks.
I wish all instructional/advice videos on TH-cam were like this. Kudos.
Essential Craftsman is an excellent channel. I started my apprenticeship with two years at the Ford Trade School being taught be instructors who came into the job straight from uni. When I went to work in the real world I found I learned so much more from people with years of of actual on-the-job experience.
It is a great channel. However I meant to say Next Level Carpentry
Tip. Try moving brad nails back and forth with a pair of needle nose pliers. The nail or staple will break off below the surface every time. Also I "cut" edge banding with a file. A bastard file works well. Have a good one.
Would you believe this is the first time I have heard about edge banding? You expained how to apply it great and I appreciate it.
Once again NO PLANS AT ALL for this but I love me some stumpy n the way he puts the cookie on the lower shelf for folks. The way you look at things just makes it make sense
when i trained many many years ago we trimmed with a chisel at a 45 angle against the board and cutting down on the banding. just slid it along and hey presto perfectly trimmed off. then it was a mill file with one quick pass. still do it today even though i rarely ever use edge banding. very quick and i don't need to any special tools to clutter up the shop.
I use parchment paper to keep any glue off the iron.
Thanks for posting this suggestion.
I did use 3/4 inch banding on 3/4 inch plywood, making shelves. It works well - because the plywood isn't 3/4 inch any more!! (its slightly less). Also I tried the plastic edge trimmer. It sucked. I get much better results just trimming it with a chisel. Love your mini-iron BTW :)
I have one of those 2 sided trimmers and agree it's not always ideal to cut both sides simultaneously. I fixed that by backing off the blades on one side. You still get the stability of straddling the work piece, but can choose cutting direction one side at a time.
As everyone else seems to say, your videos are super helpful. Also it makes me feel better about myself when professionals (such as yourself) discuss how they're still learning new tricks to the craft
We trimmed the excess with the laminate file held about 3/4 of an inch, 80 degrees above the parent material...works awesome!
Even tho I'm not a wood worker, I enjoy watching your channel. I have bought a few tools because of watching your channel. Thank you.
I “tack down” the trailing end of the band by heating it with the iron stationary, and let it cool. Then I do the remainder. That way it doesn’t creep.
Also, a small travel iron is perfect for heating the banding AND it costs much less than the one you showed.
Nonetheless, another excellent video. Merry Christmas!
During my time of working at a custom cabinet shop we primarily ran things through a bander. However anytime we had to do so manually we would always use spray on adhesive for both vinyl/hardwood edge banding and veneer's. It worked out great! Just mask the area, spray the edge (a little goes a long way and helps avoid bumps!!) then wait til it slightly drys and becomes tacky (test using the back of your fingers to help prevent as much oil transfer from your fingers). Then spray the back of the banding too, do the same and apply!
To smooth it out we would either use a roller, a square block, or if working on a wieldy enough piece of hardwood we would actually take the edge, and smack it down onto the table a couple of times. That way it gets hard pressure across the whole surface simultaneously. To clean proud edges we would just use a pvc cutter and chisel.
The beauty of this method too is if you get any on a surface you don't want it on, a rag and paint thinner will dissolve and eat right through the glue like its nothing. Plus you can setup a piece of plywood, MDF without melamine, or just the plain old wall itself. Then cake on a couple layers of a spray on adhesive onto it. Then once it dry's and it will become this dry tacky work surface that is a quick and easy to use for the purpose of attaching and holding the front of your edge banding really well while you spray the back of it without having to worry about over spray and getting it on the front. It will then peel right off from the wall with ease, for easy application to your work pieces edge with hardly any or none it getting on the face of the banding.
Watching this video made me remember that I have a little travel iron (about the size of the black one you're using). It should work perfectly to do this! Thanks!
Your videos are always very clear and helpful no fluff! Thank you!
My wife is a sewist and quilter and has a tiny little quilting iron. I might try it next time instead our full sized iron. To protect the iron from glue, I use two layers of aluminum foil flat under the iron and folded over the top, secured with painter's tape. It transfers all the heat through and keeps me from getting murdered.
A tip for taking care of those errant pin nails as well as brads that follow the grain right out of your finished surface, don't cut them (you'll have to drive the remainder below the surface anyway), don't try to pull them, bend them over a few times and they'll break off, 99.99% of the time, below the surface. No tool marks, no more tear out than what you already have. Caution advised or you'll be pokin' fun at your fingers.
1:11 13/16" not 3/16"
Unbelievably helpful video
I love these brief, topic-focused tips tutorials. It's always a treat to learn from your experience so I don't need to re-invent every mistake myself.
Hey another great video. Thanks for putting these out. Just dipping my toe in the wood working pond and I find each more educational than the last! Thanks.
Your tips are the best of the best 👌 Thank you sir.
Short and sweet and the exact info I was looking for, subbed.
love Love LOVE the flush cut pliers! Found those last year! A necessity!
That little iron is giving me PTSD levels of flashbacks to applying heat-shrink covering to R/C aircraft. But on the plus side, I still have one of those irons. Somewhere...
That trimmy thing at 4:15 looks useful. One more thing to send for.
They're called tacking irons. We used to use them for mounting fiber-based B&W photo prints. Using an entire sheet of adhesive between the print and mounting board, you tack it down in the center with the iron and then stick the entire "assembly" into a heat press. Or ... you can use it to apply adhesive-based edge banding. lol
I like that one-sided edge trimmer.. brilliant, and thanks for the tip!
you are an exemplary teacher. genius. thank you very much. xo
I learn so much from your videos, thank you.
Great job James and really great information for everyone. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.
Excellent video. Doing some edge banding today, in fact!
I didn’t know about the edge banding specific iron. I’m do a lot of work with hide glue and this small iron will make that work a lot easier. Thanks.
Or a travel iron. They must be cheaper than the specific one, and they're about the same size. :)
Year's ago I worked at a company that made display fixtures, and we used a lot of MDF. The last step before assembly was vinyl edge banding. It gave it a nice look when it was done. Incidentally, the CNC router equipment was made in Italy, and they instructed the users to keep the "yoints" lubricated for best service.
An ultra sharp, wide, flat chisel is still my preferred method for trimming edge banding.
Using a file to clean up the edges! Great idea. Side note, I have two shop irons: 1 for gluing and 1 for melting wax. I wax skis, and it's convenient to drip wax into tight corners where my own stumpy fingers don't quite reach.
There is a few things on that video that I didn't know so it helped me out a lot thank you.
Not sure how this happens, but frequently one of your videos comes up when I’m working on a project that helps me out. I’m doing some (first time) edge banding soon on some shelves I just made, and what do I see? Your video on the heat-glued edge banding. Thank you, sir!
I use a banding machine and the side cutter and edge tool is a must the yellow edge cutter is my go-to love the file idea I make alot of sanding blocks I just glue them up so I always have lots in my used sandpaper box
I realized the file the last time I did edge banding at that works great!
When I started using our old clothes iron for applying banding I simply bought a new one for clothes. The old one never leaves my shop. I like the clothes iron because I'm putting pressure directly over where I want it.
I do use one of those 2-sided trimmers. I have another reason for not using it. The cut-offs come out the sides right where my thumb and fingers are. Sometimes, they get blocked and I have to stop, clear the trimmer, and then finish. Not exactly what I want. Another problem with it is that those thin strips coming out have somewhat sharp edges and they just might give me a cut like a paper cut. So, I'll be getting a new trimmer for when I get back to work come spring.
I bought a used clothes iron at the Salvation Army for this use. I paid no more than $5 for it.
@@stanleydenning Got my for $4 at Goodwill. Inexpensive either way.
The better half bought a fancy one that gets extra hot for transferring embroidery patterns. I tried sneaking away with it for some edge banding, but the thing has an auto-off feature that detects not only standing it on-end, but also if you're not making 'ironing motions'. Needless to say, it was an exercise in frustration.
@@jaymzx0 That is good to know. It sounds like cheap-and-basic is the way to go.
@@917Stefano As the other people have pointed out, I don't think you can go wrong with a thrift store find as long as you make sure it heats up before you buy it.
I just finished a big project where I edge banded the whole thing. I wish you had created this video a few weeks ago. I trimmed everything with a knife. I would say I was 85 percent successful, but it would have been better to have had these tips. I think for the speed and cost it worked out, but if I had more time I would go with hardwood edges.
What's hers is hers and what's mine is hers
Yes, what's hers is mine and what's mine is my own.... 😄
I am edge banding with a can of contact glue. It sticks! So aim is super important because when it touches it is either in place or remove it and start again for there is zero room for correction.
Excellent! I enjoy your method of presentation. And I'm just getting ready to edge band my router table cabinet. Your timing is impeccable. Thanks, James!
I have used Fastcap PVC edgebanding with great results. Their edgebanding tool kit is great and includes the cutter shown in the video.
I was taught to use the teeth on a files edge (not all files have teeth on the sides) to shear off the overhang on wood veneer and my hand plane blade for melamine tape. (No grain direction). Commercial cutters tend to follow grain and pull veneer out.
great video, I wish I had found this sooner. Definitely going to pick up 1 of those edge banding trimmers you recommended! :)
Thank you, that was very helpful ! 5:55
As always, a great video from Stumpy Nubs... FWIW, I've never had luck with the yellow edge trimer, but have found a very sharp cranked-neck chisel works well.
Excellent informative video
I use this stuff all the time for plywood projects that are going to be painted, like a closet insert. It does a great job covering the exposed edges of the plywood for painting.
Learned a lot thanks!
Thank You For the info!!! Great Video!!!👍😎
An advantage of iron-on edge banding is it reduces the chances of a bad glue joint ruining the shelving or cabinet. If you're cutting your own 1/8" thick hardwood strips, it's easy to end up with a surface that doesn't match up well with the edge of the plywood. If you don't have an expensive drum sander, it's easy to make the join worse with a random orbital sander and hand sanding can take forever. The end result may be a failed glue joint and/or unsightly gaps that need to be filled with putty.
I have no real choice but to cut thin timber strips to edge band. The only edge banding available here, including online, is that tacky vinyl faux wood banding. Real timber involves running the panels, shelves etc through a router table to trim the width to match after gluing. I can also use a roundover bit to create a decorative edge.
Good informative program. I do a lot of edge banding and use a dedicated household iron i bought at a goodwill store for $4.00.
The problem with these edge trimmer are they required special blades that are not replaceable and before you know it you are tossing the unit out and buying another. I use the lamented file pushing in a downward direction and slightly moving alone the piece and this forces the banding down and not allowing rip out. This gives a clean finish. I went through a lot of trimmer
Resale shops including places like Goodwill are a great source for cheap workshop irons. I think I gave $2 for mine and it keeps me out of the doghouse. I'm also an RC modeler and will give a covering (tack) iron a try.
The people whom would give a thumbs down to this video may be the same people who are know it alls whom know less than they think. I am always willing to watch and learn and will make my own mind up.
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love your channel and Go Wings! I remember watching games with my dad at the old Olympia Arena and of course Joe Louis Arena!
Thank you. Happy Holidays stay safe!
I'm happy to learn a few new tricks in the comments here! I will add that my local cabinetmaking supplier carries an edgebanding with a 3m pressure sensitive adhesive on it. It's a total game changer - no more irons, and no more air bubbles appearing when applying your waterborne finishes.
I find the PSA backed stuff isn't as durable over time. It peels off.
Thanks you do a great job of explaining what you are doing
As always, great content, well presented. Thank you.
You are wonderful. Thank you.
James, great tutorial but I think it was Matt Jackson, from Next Level Carpentry, that recommended the file instead of the sanding block. I could be wrong. Thanks for the tips.
Great video as usual. Have a very groovy Christmas.
I bought a cheap $5 iron for this and it works great. As others have pointed out, you said 3/16 when you should have said 13/16.
Yes. When I misspeak even a little bit I have to hear about over and over and over and over.... It's one of the joys of the job :)
At least they are listening!
@@StumpyNubs yeah but the benefits must be great 😂😂😂
Great video! You could also use the iron they use in R/C planes to attach film to the airframe. Fact is, the one you are using looks EXACTLY like them. Question...when will you release the video on the air compressor cart??
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Look forward to trying it
Can you use parchment paper in-between the iron and the banding to avoid getting glue on your iron?
A sharp plane iron will trim edge banding perfectly. Especially on melamine faces which are perfectly flat.
Could you follow up describing when to apply edge banding - to the individual pieces before construction, or after construction to the finished piece, and advantages/disadvantages of each. Also for a painted plywood piece, is edge banding a better or worse choice than filling and sanding the edges?
Dear James, I would like a video about why melamine (melamine covered boards, 2 sides) is so unpopular in the US 🇺🇸. For me, it's the best industrialized wood panel in the world, and it's unbeatable. It can be used in a variety of applications.
So, why is it so unpopular there?
Could be an interesting discussion. Thank you 😁
Always love your tips and this is not exception. Now for the picky stuff or perhaps I misunderstood something. At 1:10 you say explain that for 3/4" plywood to buy the 7/8" or 3/16". If that was a verbal "typo", I understand. If not, then there's something here I don't follow.
Again, I really appreciate what you are doing!
Merry Christmas
I meant to say 13/16
I'm guessing a missing digit. Some banding comes 13/16th " wide.
Essential Craftsman!
More great info, James. Looks like I'll be buying more tools now (oh no).
You were a week late for this video! I could have really used it last week!
Thank You James👍
Guessing you meant 13/16” not 3/16” when referencing the 7/8” for 3/4” ply.
What is the proper setting for the iron to make sure the glue melts in on hand and you don't burn the material on the other?
I’d like to know the proper iron temperature for edge banding, too! 😊
I'm going to be doing a lot of edge-banding for slab-style drawer and cabinet door fronts in my kitchen. You mentioned you might do a video on a desktop edge-banding machine but didn't see one when I searched. Any recommendations on a specific model? Love your videos!
Great information - thanks.
The link to the square end trimmer goes to a product that Amazon says is not available and its future availability is unknown; however, the page has links to other (very) similar products.
That just means it sold out and Amazon is waiting for the company to send them more. Here's an alternative: amzn.to/2Kb1YP5
I don't like to put negative commentary, but I think it's right to share my experience. It took me 3 half days to do 6 drawers. Way too long.
First, those cutting tools did not work well. They rip up the strips. The side stripper pulls up more than you want because the wood peels. I could see right away they were messing up the wood that I already laid down and I tried more than once before I gave up and used a utility knife and sandpaper.
I realized after, a scalpel would be best.
Second,, 3/4 strips for 3/4 in ply is best. Not more. Just line it up well, then you have hardly any trimming to do.
Third, no need to over lap the edges. Just cut it right the first time because you don't get any creep. I saw on another video, you can miter the edges with a scalpel. Hm wish I saw that first. My corners are a mess.
Fourth, a regular iron is fine. Don't waste your money on a small one unless you do this often.
Fifth, an aluminum can with pressure is fine, don't need a roller. The iron itself is heavy.
Sixth the file was another waste of money. I put it down and used 220 sandpaper. Much more precise and faster. Amazon, getting a lot of returns from me
Great information, Thank you.....
Did you meant Next Level Carpentry for the edge-banding tip? Doesn't sound like Essential Craftsman's type of content.
Yes, I think I did. Sorry.
Super helpful video! Should I stain or seal my cabinet doors before applying the veneer edging? Or do I do that after applying it?
Awesome video, quick question. If I’m planning too apply a veneer top to a dresser with veneer edge banding which should I apply first ?
Thank you !!
Hey! Great video! What temperature did you set your veneer edge banding iron to?
always good
great vid, good info. do you have a link to that small iron?
Did you get a new vest or are you losing weight? Either way, looking good!