How to clear coat better with spray cans
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ย. 2024
- Hey guys! I’m Brad, and I make how-to videos. I do custom painting projects, guitar painting, airbrushing, spray can painting, wood working, and a variety of other finishing work and tutorials. Please subscribe and check out my channel for more!
In this video I demonstrate the process for clear coating a project with spray cans. I go through the steps that I use in detail. I also demonstrate a trick that I use to make clear coating with spray cans more effective.
Intro music by TH-camrs Sovereign King and Owen McKinley.
Sovereign King's TH-cam: / subliminallll
Owen McKinley's TH-cam: / growthmusic57
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Thanks for watching.
To get in touch with me with your questions, photos, etc. use the links below!
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Dude, I about died laughing when you said "oh, by the way, always wear a respirator", then u continued to paint without one!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha
@@BradAngove sorry, I just fixed my comment but it was supposed to say you continued to paint WITHOUT one, that's why it was so funny!! Awesome video though, made me laugh and was super helpful, never would have thought about using 2 cans at once!!! Thank you!
No you didnt lol
That was edited , he added the remark afterwards
I always wondered why he didn’t wear one, he could always do a time lapse of the spraying, the dub any comments he wants to add later. Don’t underestimate how much damage repeat exposure can do.
One trick for keeping dust down, if applicable. Dampen the area your're painting in. I've been painting in a old greenhouse and I just run the water hose over the floor and walls lightly. It works wonders!
Indeed. I like to use a little spray bottle and mist the area.
@@BradAngove would running a humidifier in the area achieve the same results?
No, you actually need mist in the air to trap the dust. Increasing humidity is actually a bad thing when painting.
I tried hosing down the walls and ceiling in my living room but the water dripped into my clear coat job and the guy downstairs said he had water dripping on his forehead while he was sleeping. There was no dust though it actually works.
I use 5 cans, it’s rough.
Make sure that you wet sand the product also. Your item should cure completely for about 6 days before clear coating. A good rule is that if you can still smell the paint, it has not cured.
I think you are the best teacher out there Brad. You video's kick ass and are a great deal of help. Thx for taking the time out to do tutorials, AWESOME.
Thank you, I really appreciate that and I'm glad that you're finding the videos helpful.
You sir, are an invaluable part of this video business website. I have been building guitar distortions (pedals) for years and always messed up the clear coating. Not anymore though! From the bottom of my hear thank you so much! You and your channel is pure quality.
Thanks man. I’m glad you found the video helpful.
I absolutely love people going out of their way to help people out on their free time like this with information they think could help. 10/10
Thanks Keegan
This is by far the best clear coat tutorial on all of TH-cam, subbed and liked my man. Keep up the awesome content
Thanks man. I’m glad you liked it.
Been watching your tutorials for a while now, you really know your stuff..massive help to me thanks for everything.🔥👍👍
“Spraying it with two cans. You kinda........heh, two cans”
Your delivery of that was so much funnier than the realization itself hahah
stgtr
The answer to my questions, great job of keeping it simple for all us knuckleheads
Da Wabbit Glad to be of service.
I have always had poor results when applying the clear coat….until I watched your video. Simple instructions but worked beautifully. Thank you!!!
I’m very glad to hear that
Another good tip is to make sure that the service you're painting and your clear coat and or paint is warmed up adequately. All liquids become less viscous when warmed. When it's less viscous it will flow out and level much better. Careful though of vertical surfaces, with less viscosity also comes more chance for runs. For those of you that don't know viscosity is defined as a liquids resistance to flow. As in water is less viscous than honey.
The ambient temperature is very important, if it's 90F outside i.e. you don't need to be warming anything up. Also good to read your instructions for the recommended temperatures, depending on the temperature different hardeners can be needed. It's crazy how many variables there are with paint, i.e. if it was 20 degrees cooler you might have a different experience, can be the difference between runs etc. Painting is all about experience, but also using good paint. Use quality products and get quality results. Keep in mind not everyone is going to be able to spray paint as well as Brad, and also these spray cans work much better for small things like guitars. Not to discourage the use though.
thanks batman
+Si Dog Ducati You're welcome good citizen of gotham.
Rofl I immediately thought the exact same thing XD you beat me to it
I didn't think Batman but the actor. But same thing. But yea you do favor. And have some of the same mannerisms. You'd be a good stand in.
I thought both batman and the actor not just the appearance of Ben but ill be damned voice 2
How to dry clear coating properly? Mine just won't dry entirely. They say don't put in under the sun.
I would have never figured to use 2 cans.thanks for some more great tips .
Ya, it's oddly helpful haha. Thanks for watching.
The duel spray can method with the fans at 90° to each other was a game changer for me. Thanks man
Perpendicular fans? Do you move perpendicularly with each can?
Great! Thanks so much! I've watched so many videos but found yours to be the most informative so I truly appreciate you taking the time to get back to me.
Unbelievable!!! 🤩🤩😁 Thanks so much. Had been spraying a boot spoiler with 1 can of lacquer and the results were not what I wanted so I hit it lightly with 400 grit, cleaned it down and sprayed with 2 cans and what a difference. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
I’m glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Great stuff. Saving me from giving up on my "luthier" work. Greatly appreciate the "you don't have to do it like it's always been done" approach.
Thanks Ed. The instrument world is oddly resistant to change sometimes, but that doesn’t mean a little change is a bad thing.
I sprayed 3 coats each on two sets of headlights with a small can of 2K with the hardner and they turned out perfect. Used up the whole can. I gave them 15 minutes flash time between coats.
@Jeff Webre You may want to consider using a can of catalyzed polyurethane clear coat. It is more expensive, and you will need to wear a respirator, but it provides a stronger finish. You would only need one can, as it has a nice fan cap on it. Spraymax makes one. It's available through the coastairbrush website.
I was a pro painter for 17 years of spraying lacquer. I have retired from that (disability) and I sold my spray rigs before moving to a new state. A buddy was building stomp boxes and paying for them to be pre finished and it was junk spray jobs. So I Started using Lacquer in a can (real nitro). But I can not do a tac coat. if I tried that with a Graco 990 airless sprayer it would orange peel.
I shoot on a normal coat of sealer. Sand, then a second coat, sand. Then coats of clear. Why do none of you guys ever use sanding sealer? I went from 3,000 airless spray rigs to Stew Mac Lacquer cans on metal instead of wood. I am already better than the guys selling the pedal boxes. But I still consider myself new to metal and cans.| Why no sanding sealer? Why tac coats?
Is lacquer not best for metal? I see lots of enamel. But I never see oil based lacquer sanding sealer and oil based sating or gloss to top coat it.
We don't use sanding sealer on metal because there's no need to seal it. Sealer is important for wood of course to prevent the paint from soaking into the pores, but on metal that's not an issue. Instead we deal with adhesion issues.
Essentially, instead of using sanding sealer on metal we use primer. The tack coat is just to keep the paint from running on the wetter coats because enamels and polyurethanes tend to go on in slightly heavier coats than lacquer.
They used to use lacquer on cars/metal all the time ( a very long time ago), but now there are finishes that are faster and more durable, so lacquer isn't as popular a choice anymore.
Brad Angove do you know if the spray max clear goes over acrylic paint without reacting ... I do a lot of art in acrylic paints ?
+Jacqueline Powter I've used it over automotive acrylics before. I just make sure the paint is dry before I spray the clear.
Brilliant... it does seem to be the best !
Love the dry humor, you never laugh so it really busts me up man 😂. Yes great instruction too, especially about the dry times between coats, thanks!
So, I tried the "Double Can" technique on laying down clear for a bumper I am fixing. I did 1 pass across the top of the bumper (tack coat), using Rustoleum Clear Enamel, and INSTANTLY got a curtain of clear runs. I will sand it down and give it another shot using just 1 can and see what happens.
Your tack coat should be lighter than your other coats. Make sure your can is well shaken, and move it more quickly to avoid that problem.
Brad Angove thanks! I actually tried it again tonight, and discovered that I was spraying too close to the bumper. I kept the cans slightly farther back from the bumper. It seemed odd, but it worked great!
I'm glad to hear it. The speed at which you move the can, and the distance that you hold it from the piece, are the two main elements that control how heavy your coat it. I cover it in my demo video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
More coats "is" better. 😉
You had it right the first time. More coats are one as a whole, being compared to less coats as a whole (one thing compared to another thing). It does sound awkward I agree, but it's one of those tricky parts of our language. I thought you'd appreciate the clarification since you stopped to think about it. Not being a snarky troll, I just find we can be useful to each other in a productive way. Great tutorial! Thanks! 🙏
That’s an interesting way of looking at it. Thank you for the clarification.
There's something very important he forgot to tell you...Don't cross the streams...Total Protonic Reversal could happen...
Hahaha
It’s a joke. But, you really shouldn’t cross the streams. You can overlap them, but if you try to actually cross them they will interfere with each other’s atomization.
This is true with urinals as well..
the code official r/cursedcomments
There's something badass about having Bruce Wayne/Batman teach you how to paint properly. No wonder the Tumbler looked so good! Excellent video!
Thanks. Join me next time when I show how to do the matte black batmobile finish!
Bruce Wayne...
The billionaire?
Martha!
SF PV i
Two cans are you kidding?Some people have trouble spraying with one.Here is my trick.Put the spray can on a paint shaker.This will give you better atomization.Use a heat gun to warm the object being painted.Sure way to get a run is painting something cold.Finally, put your spray can in a bucket of hot water for ten minutes.I have been painting for 40 years and this always works for me.I recommend to use the 2k clear for best results.
Wheel repair
What a great two can spray master. Thanks for your channel. Not easy to get use to two cans at the same time
It takes a bit of practice, but it can speed things up nicely when you get the hang of it.
Look at the big brain on Brad! 🤣 Lmao. Actually, that's a really good idea about using 2 cans at once. It's never crossed my mind to even try that.
Hopefully you find it useful haha.
So glad I watched this b4 I started spraying, I'm confident of success now. Thanks from Manchester UK.
Cheers Lewis
Thank you Batman I plan to do this sometime next week
I hope it goes well for you.
I like the way you look at things . Puts a whole new perspective on a goal we're all trying to achieve . Who hasn't sprayed it again a second time because we weren't happy with our first attempt .
Your tack coat looked suspiciously similar to your other coats, in terms of the lightness of the application of the toucans. :p
That is kind of hard with a can, but with airbrushing clear coat is a necessity!
You’re a lifesaver. No other video helped me like this and i’m so grateful!!!!
I’m glad I could help.
@@BradAngove I sprayed some paint on my car but it has orange peel (i haven’t clear coated yet). Should i clearcoat then sand it down or sand it down the clearcoat?
I’d sand smooth before clear coat unless it’s metallic.
Just here too watch him 😂🤷🏻♀️❤️
Sir much appreciated it it did help a lot!!
Hes the Clearcoater Gotham deserves but not the one it needs right now
After watching this I got a proper gloss finish on a alloy wheel. Unlike the other 2 I’ve already done. Nice work 👍
Glad I could help.
Thank you, Batman
You're welcome citizen of Gotham.
Brad Angove seriously. finished last night, used this technique while touching up clear on my car roof- massive surface area! completely nailed it after the sad little single can coat I attempted beforehand. You're the hero Gotham deserves
I'm very glad to hear that it worked out for you.
beckhead25 how did you do it on the roof of the car it's wide area
Sroor9001 trial and error really, starting on one side, spraying side to side starting from outside and going to centre, running to the other side of the car and resuming from middle, even strokes from side to side until i reached the other outer side. That way I kept the layers even (not to mention using a lot more cans than I expected)
Perfect show and tell. Just what I needed and yes you have much talent with paint. I am somewhat envious
Thank you. I’m glad you found the demo helpful.
“Heh, Toucans (two cans)”
instant subscribe
Just follow your nose!
Probably 1 of the funniest how to videos I’ve ever seen 😂
I always had good luck with plain ol' Krylon, which is half the price of the catalyzed stuff. Got a very acceptable high gloss. So of course, it promptly disappeared from all my local stores ...
I always hated krylon. Durability and compatibility issues plagued me when I used it.
Gee, I've had exactly the opposite experience; used it on guitars, motorcycle frames and even engine cylinders, good durability, good workability, though I couldn't speak for compatibility, never tried using it with anything else. Now, Rustoleum gave me all the aggravations you mention, and more!
Fair enough haha.
Yep, "different strokes."
I started working with rustolyum and really learned how to sand out drips, runs and sags.
Krylon is much better for my beginners skills
Thanka foe the info! I'm gonna buy some wide spray caps and use this type of clear, I was about to order 2k but you just conviced me to use a standard 1k clear can thats easily available just about everywhere.
Well, 2K definitely has its benefits. Have a look at my video on 1k vs 2K vs 2x clear coat.
Brad remember that too many coats effects the tone as well, too much and the tone goes away...
+Tech of Tomorrow I assume you're referring to painting a guitar or instrument and not a plastic panel haha. That's definitely true for acoustic instruments, and while this technique will help one to get a better coat, it will be important to limit the number of coats. It's debatable whether more paint will have a noticeable effect on an electric guitar. I don't think any one would be able to tell the difference in sound with the amount of extra paint that you could conceivably use by employing this technique.
Please provide proof. You can't. Other than opinion.
I have been painting for 25 years (as a hobbits, air brushes, detail/jamb gun, spray cans, etc). I have never seen the two can method before. I would have laughed, until I saw the results! That is really ingenious. Maybe not for everyone (hard to get the right pattern at first), but well done!!!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I find it particularly useful for doing high volume work, but it does take a bit of coordination and practice. I certainly wouldn't advise it for people who haven't mastered working with one can first.
You look kinda like David Giuntoli from Grimm. Time to brush up on them acting chops, bruh! Thanks for the video!
Hi Brad I have had some experience spraying my motorcycle suit years ago.I am half way through your video I don't think you will be touching on what I need to know in this video but I am in the process of spraying my friends acoustic guitar only the part that has Leslie West signature on it. I am using an clear satin finish spray from stew mac.I don't want it to be shiny. kinda flat.I have to do the whole section of course it's on the lower side leg side.only going to do the bottom. It was signed with a sharpie. I intend to hit the first tack shot very light. Thanks for posting your videos. c];-)
Have a look at my video on how to protect signatures.
@@BradAngove OK Brad Thanks for the come back c];-)
You’re very talented but that doesn’t help with the harmful fumes of the spray paint. Please wear mask also!
Well done. This is the first time i've actually heard someone explain this done this way aside from myself. I use basically the same method (less a can) and especially the 3 coat limit because when done the right way you just really don't need any more. It just can't net any better results for you so why waste the time or product. I have had some really amazing results with these spray cans. I still find myself shocked when I finish a job with 3 progressive coats of this clear coat and look over the results. I only wish I knew this 2 years ago the first time i did my headlights haha. I learned this method on my own and now would never do it any other way. I recently used this technique over rustoleum lens tint (the 1 and only) on my head and tail lights and let me tell you.... They finished flawless and look store bought. That lens tint has a seriously BAD rap but its just not being done right. Anyway, thanks for the video and nice job.
+Jason Powers I'm glad the system is working well for you. Thank you for watching and for your comment.
I’m no painter but this is what I’m doing. I have a 2005 Paint match 122/200 on my Harley Wide Glide and I changed out the thin front spoke tire and installed a 09 Fatboy chrome wheel and fender I’m trying to replicate the Pearl Yellow with black flames with outlined red trim. My goal is when finished I won’t be able to feel the flame lines with the clear coat I bought raffle can base coat with mid coat Pearl yellow and vivid black along with the Firefighter red paint pen for around the flame and plan on laying all colors before I clear coat entire fender. So anything I should do other than prep first?
Thank you sir - will help greatly as I'm trying to get into car modelling and been afraid of the CLEARCOAT step!
Are you referring to small model cars?
Good stuff. I am a maintenance engineer and have commercial no parking signs to put up outside. Two are plastic, one is aluminum and the last is aluminum or steel. All preprinted or painted. My question is whether it would be a good idea to clear-coat them for greater longevity and durability with respect to the elements. I have both spray and brush applicable products. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you for these helpful videos.
In order to clear coat them you would need to sand the existing paint a bit and clean it to allow the new clear coat to stick. It can be challenging to paint plastic and metal directly without the right primers too. It may be risky to try to clear coat them now.
The spray can you used seems to be the same stuff I used years ago. There's a lot of clear coat in that can!
The only thing is that when you use this (the Rustoleum 2X gloss), the paint underneath has to be ABSOLUTELY DRY. I think I found out that a week is the safe point (for drying) before you use the top gloss. If the paint isn't dry, the clear coat reacts with the paint and can melt plastic (which is what I'm using the clear coat for to top off). I've had this happen between Rustoleum product (Rustoleum spraypaint for plastic and the Rustoleum 2X clear gloss) sprayed on the same small sample of plastic.
I've used Dupli-Color and as long as you keep within the line (use all Dupli-Color from adhesion promoter to the clear gloss), it doesn't react. The problem is I don't think I like the way the Dupli-Color gloss looks AND it leaves a rough texture which is another thing. It makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if the Dupli-Color gloss is not good for my project. The top coat doesn't feel smooth unless you sand it which as I understood it you shouldn't have to do for a proper gloss coat!!!!
It's a shame because I've had good results with Dupli-Color in the past but apparently the Dupli-Color gloss coat sucks for my use!
I think I'm going to go back to the Rustoleum 2X Clear Coat and taking the advice and get a second can (which I may need to get anyway; I'm getting low on what I have left). This may give me a more even coat on my plastic case project. In the meantime, I'm gonna have to wet-sand for the MILLIONTH TIME the stupid damn case but I want to get this project right and have it dried off and finished hopefully by the middle of June, end of June. I'm reconditioning and painting (in a new gloss color) an old joystick case (20-plus year-old Dreamcast Agetec joystick case) and spending way too much time on repairing this thing!
I’ll have a video coming out soon on how to get a beautiful finish with duplicolor (it involves using different clear), but for now you should take a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans. It’s over rustoleum.
@@BradAngove I think I'm going with Rustoleum. It's more economical and in the case of the finish I've liked the results I've gotten with the Rustoleum better than what I'm seeing with the Dupli-Color. The clear coat/gloss of the Dupli-Color just isn't working for me. Either I got a bad can, I don't know what I'm doing, or it's just junk. Probably a bit of all that.
Great tutorial as always! Thank you for taking your time to share your technique and best practices!
Thanks Jeff; I’m glad you liked it.
Thank you, I went with the oil based semi gloss polyurethane, since it was designed for wood.....
Friendly, I was afraid that clear 2x will chip off easily, and prep. will involve two extra steps.
Oil based poly grabbed in wood with first coat without any problems.
Sincerely
Vladimir
I'm glad to hear that it went well for you.
In addition, as Brad noted, quality also comes with practice. I've had to redo coats (including waiting for initial curing - approx 4 - 7 days depending on product, re-cleaning, re-sanding, etc.) many times. I've also had small jobs become big messes either due to perfectionism or rushing. Take your time, be patient, and let the paint do what it must to cure. I also agree with the 5 - 10 minute waiting period between coats, but, as noted in other comments, account for where you're painting - airflow, ambient dust, temperatures, humidity. Sometimes experience is what you get when you least want it, but patience and being willing to be "bad" before becoming proficient are keys to succeeding.
Great video. I never considered using toucan's to spray before. I've since moved on to 2K clear but the next time I am doing a cost conscience job I'm going to try this method.
Thanks Jimmy. I don’t know if a toucan can help you though haha. Unless you’re trying to find fruit loops.
I see that in using 2 cans, you don't get that 'dry edge' look when using one can as you work, and it also has the volume you would get from a paint gun! Nice tip....! I will certainly try that method!:) Cheers!
Thanks, I'm glad you like this technique.
Great video Bard. whats the difference between this clear coat and a poly based clear coat? I didnt see you sanding between coat , does it not require this? how long do you wait between coats? Is it good for wood as well? ( I have this clear coat and still havent used it )
It's just a different compound. You don't need to sand between coats if you re-coat within the recast window so that the coats can bond chemically. If you wait beyond that you need to let it dry and sand lightly. I waited 10-15 minutes between coats.
I stumbled on this because I’m planning to do a DIY project on a table surface, I’d like to ask if it’s possible to use a 2K clear coat on a wood stain surface finish? Great and informative video I would say.
Yes, it’s possible. Just make sure you have the right safety equipment. 2K will kill you.
Thank you for the advice..
Great idea the two can thing, I will use this and I like your yack, yack, yack. Thanks for the great spray can paint trick for large areas.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you like the technique.
Brad, can you do more videos on EEEERRRRRYTHING else in life!!! I listened to everything you said - intensely. I don’t even paint but I will find something in that garage to throw out so I can set up my new paintin’ studio with your videos playing on a loop. Thank you for your knowledge and “things”. 😃
Hahaha thanks Rhonda. I’m glad you’re finding the tutorials helpful.
Are you asking me to take up vlogging? Haha
awesome video, thanks for all the good tips. The double spray cans was nicely done and a great example. I have had such a hard time with clear coating I hardly bother anymore with it and just repaint every year with flat colors.
+Mel Smith I'm glad you liked the video. Clear coating can be pretty finicky. Even with tricks like this it takes some practice to get it right consistently.
man you crack me uup with your videos.. I don't understand how these kids get on here and are immediately like a professional reporter with a script and all this editing and shiit. you are real, jyst filming yourself talk and its hilarious your train of thought all the tiime with cuts and moving around.. don't be offended man it's refreshing to see real people still. keep it up
I'm not offended. I've been too lazy to script anything since day one. The cuts are for pacing, but I'm also too lazy to learn better editing techniques haha.
yea man, it actually works well I thinks.. I like it cause that is exactly how I would do it but I'm too lazy to even film myself paint anything
+Mc Key Haha fair enough.
Nice 👍🏽. A great idea for a next video will be cleaning the clear coat from the dust then give it another coats. Also it would be great if the camera is behind u while spraying. All the best from Kuwait 🇰🇼
good video and no bluff and he clearly shows dist particles on it.... they can be polished out AFTER it is well dried !
I just posted a video with some tips on how to avoid them actually.
Thank you, Brad.
I am planning to finish couple of cabinets built from ply, and wanted just a clear finish to seal and protect.
I went to HD last night and got cans of 2x clear.... Hope it will stick to sended and clean plywood?
It should stick, but it probably won't leave you with a smooth finish on sanded plywood. I suggest you consider grain filling it, but even if you choose not to do that, a clear sealer is probably a better way to start than going straight to enamel clear coat.
Why are you not at a million yet ? Subbed bro
Thanks man. It’s a pretty niche channel haha.
Neat 2 handed technique. The ol' John Woo 2 gun inspiration. Well done.
Thanks
Hey thanks for the tutorial! Just wondering what brand and finish you would suggest for a kids guitar?
A kids guitar would be finished in the same way as a full-sized one. Unless your worried about them chewing on it?
Do I need to sand my colour coat before I clear?
I'm using enamel spray cans btw.
Thanks for your videos they are super helpful
Yes, sand lightly with 800 grit before clear coat and clean well.
@@BradAngove thank you for that.
Just one last question, I was watching another video of yours regarding weird finish issues.
So this enamel I did has some small splits in the colour, likely as mentioned in your video because of environmental or weather conditions (it was quiet warm when I sprayed) how can I fix those before I spray another colour coat?
Sand it smooth with 600 grit and apply another coat.
@@BradAngove awesome, thanks again. I was happy with the coverage other than that.
Keep doing what you're doing, it's great.
Nice tip...never saw it done before with 2 cans. I'll have to give it a try some time. Thanks!
Glad you like it. Thanks for watching.
Thx man! A pro at work! To many hilarious "artists" and teens destroy an old guitar they found in a cupboard. What you could do is make a vid about restoring a surface that has been painted with brushes. Then find the noob that did it in the first place and offer them medicine.
Found your channel after a couple of disastrous finishes using a new set of cans of not used before (Montana Black and the Montana gloss varnish) staying soft, to the point where after 3 weeks of drying simply resting them against anything for more than 2 minutes got a huge dent.
I think I'll stick with rustoleum polyurethane and use this technique going forward!
Great channel and really informative videos. do you have any recommendations on economical HVLP setups? (Not cheap ones, but best bang for buck).
Yes, I spoke about them in my recent livestream. I like my Warwick 904 for lacquer and my devilbiss flg400 for poly.
Will to much affect the tone of my Toyota pick-up? Great video
Like, how your pickup sounds? Haha
Okay man. Wish me luck... I’m gonna try to put a clear coat on my (covid) project. Paint is done and the decals are on... any suggestions? Your instructions seem pretty straight forward. I just have one question. I have paint and decals I’m trying to clear coat, which product should I use?
What kind of paint did you use?
When I was first learning woodworking all the books use the term "washcoat" which I've also heard from stewmac etc. But "tack coat" makes perfect sense also.
Wash coats are sometimes used as guide coats for flat sanding as well. I generally don’t use the term because it seems to have two meanings haha.
@@BradAngove True. Plus for a beginner tack coat likely makes more sense as they can draw on the name an use common sense/context clues to understand what you're talking about. Whereas "wash coat" could be confusing.
Hi Brad-
I can’t remember if I asked this question in another vid. But I’m currently in the process of repurposing an old metal school desk and I’m having the most difficult time applying a clear coat.
I actually always this problem-
Splotchiness or spray marks no matter how many light or heavy coats I do. (I’ve tried every way possible). So much so, that I can always see where I’ve sprayed the top coat.
Will this method prevent that and what product would you recommend for metal? (I’m looking for something durable with a high gloss sheen. Thanks so much. Your vids are super helpful and I’m so glad I subbed to your channel.
Can’t wait to learn more!
Hi Kristen. This should help, but have a look at my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans, and also check my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans. Those should both add some useful info.
hi brad how soon after you paint should you apply the clear coat? should the paint be complete dry like 24 hours or 15 minute like the time between paint coats thanks your video's are very helpful
+john murano Either of those can be correct. If you have laid down several coats of wet paint in a row, it's probably best to let it dry 24 hours, sand lightly, and clear coat. If you've only put down one or two in the last session, it's reasonable to just wait 10 minutes or so and then put down a couple coats of clear.
Brad if you only can help here. Last week desided to refurbish my wife's car rusty wheels. I cleaned them with wire brush and sandpaper as mush as I could and then used rust inhibitor consisting mostly of phosphoric acid.Brushed and left overnight to react properly. Next day washed the wheels with soapy water , dried them and sprayed with acid primer - 3 coats 10 min apart and then after an hour with three coats satin black again 10 minutes apart. All good for the first two three days but then noticed that some white residue is popping out through the top paint and the surface is getting rough. Washed the wheels a few times but the white stuff / stain comes back. Any advise?
I'm sorry; unfortunately I don't have any experience with those paints and don't know much about them. I have no idea what went wrong there. My best guess is you might have a delamination issue because you waited an hour between paint types instead of a day, and presumably didn't sand in between.
Hi Brad, i'm painting my guitar using Fluorescent cans by Rustoleum, its a DIY project, can i use the same Rustoleum clear cans like in your video?, what do you recomend for a better protective and gloss finish? Thanks for your support - Great Channel
+Joe Gc Hi Joe. You should be able to use the cans from the video. They tend to give a nice hard finish. SprayMax makes a catalyzed (2K) polyurethane in a can that gives a really nice finish. It has a fan cap as well, which is helpful. It's more expensive though, and once you activate the can you can only use it for a few hours, then the contents start to harden in the can.
If you're interested in going that route, make sure that you have proper safety equipment. Catalyzed finishes are very dangerous for your lungs etc.
Hi Brad. Very interesting videos. Enjoying and learning. I will share with a friend of mine, he's trying to get into airbrushing. Keep them coming. I've subscribed. Have a good one :)
Sandy Mergui Thank you Sandy. I appreciate it.
As many of these videos I look at, I can never find the exact type of finish I'm looking to put on my first guitar kit. Do you have a discussion board or have one you recommend so I can get feedback on what I'm looking to achieve in my finish? Love your videos!!
Hop on Facebook and look up the guitar paint stain and finishing group. There are a bunch of us in there with the experience to help out.
maybe joining 2 cans together along with a modified "Double tip"/ trigger setup might help anyone not able to manipulate 2 cans at once. Great videos. Thanks
That would be interesting. I wonder who one would go to to have something like that made.
I'd be interested in seeing how you 'patch' an area with clear-coat: where you have done a repair to one area, and are blending in with existing clear-coat. ???
what kind of clear coat it is? that makes a big difference.
Very cool tip using 2 cans. Definitely going to be trying this
Excellent. I hope it goes well for you.
@Brad Angove - I like the 2 cans for the clear coat. What about using 2 cans for your base?
That’s doable as well. I do that in larger surfaces.
This is the first video on this subject, and I'm still left with questions, because "flat surfaces" are non-existent for my project.
A. I'm painting a never-painted steel bike frame: I did primer coats, a silver undercoat, stenciled a logo, then a candy green paint on parts, not all, of frame (headtubes/ top tube, seat tube)
A(1): I was too impatient and "newb" on green coats, so I have some blotch ing ~ I'm not going to stress on that.
B. The clear 2K coat spray can comes with a "hand grenade pin" to pull(!??); so my questions are:
1. If/when I pull that pin (obviously mixing a two part product), must I use it all "in one go" or can it last a couple days?
2. Given no flat surfaces, and only one can, any clues on doing it "one side at a time" or otherwise? And were I to do one at a time, how to ensure full even coverage?
Sorry I'm long-worded; if anyone has ideas, experience or pointers, or other video links, I just ordered a respirator (Honeywell 5500) and am awaiting its delivery.
Thanks much
It would be cool to explain the difference between clears with and without catalyst and when you could use each one. I assume this will be less scratch resistant than something with an activator.
That's a great idea. I'll try to get that in to one of my upcoming "Ask Brad" videos. The activator generally just tends to decrease cure time, but there are hardeners available for enamels that cause them to dry harder and more scratch resistant from what I understand.
hey man great video. what would be the best way to clear coat a rusty surface? customer wants a rusty finish on a steel table. thanks
That's a fun one. I would try to get it as clean as possible without removing the rust, then apply a thin coat of adhesion promoter. Paint has trouble sticking to raw metal, which is why a primer is usually important. For a clear job, that's generally not an option, so I use adhesion promoter instead. Then use your clear. If you want it to look as natural as possible, a matter clear is probably your best bet.
awesome thanks. over seen videos of guys using adhesion promoters only as a clear coat. would you advise against that?
Well, it's not clear coat. Adhesion promoter is essentially just paint glue to help paint stick to surface that it would normally have trouble adhering to. It won't protect against further corrosion, or give a shiny look, or really serve any purpose if you don't then put some kind of paint over it.
Lmfao i dont even need to clear coat anything found your video by accident but watched the entire thing 😂
Haha thank Tyler. Might come in handy one day I guess.
Hi Brad, I refurb electronic gear, i do a quick sand to rough of surface, then spray paint the surface. What do you reccomend i use for sealing that spray paint finish? Because i don't want paint to come off if electronic item i moved and hits a wall or scrapes against a surface. I want the paint job to be able to sustain bump, scratches etc. So what do you reccomend i use to seal the spray paint? Has to be something in a can as i don't have paint spray guns, etc. Thanks beforehand for any input. John
Enamel is pretty hard and can often be found in clear cans.
I understand that I am late to this one, but I have a couple of questions. when using cans on plastic I understand that you need to scrub it down with a hard surface for example a rough side of a sponge or a certain grit of sandpaper in order for the paint to stick, but is it ideal to use "Plastic Primer" before applying paint? In-between coats how long should I wait? how long should time pass for me to apply clear coat? and finally once the clear coat has been applied how long should I wait for it to cure? (I am relatively new to this so hearing from someone that has professional experience would be fantastic).
Plastic primer is helpful. The timing depends on what paint you’re using. I would suggest reading the can.
what kind did you use. Can't see the can very well with all the movement in your hands.
Thanks.....really liked this video.
This was Rustoleum crystal clear.
Hi Brad, thanks for helping out. My base coat is a metallic acrylic 1K paint (duplicollor), over which I plan to use a 2K clear coat . Do I need to dry and scuff the base coat before applying clear? I'm a bit worried about scuffing up the metallic.
The 2k will bind well enough. I think you should be fine.
this guy finally retired from Barcelona... great to see you pursuing your hobby, Messi..
Gotta pass the time somehow haha.
Hey Brad your channels amazing I’ve learned a lot from watching your videos . I have a quick question for you hopefully you’ll get back to me! I just repainted my alloy rims with dupli color high performance wheel coating bronze (spray cans) and then I applied the dupli color high performance wheel coating clear gloss both are acrylic enamels, and some spots did not come out as glossy as others, should I wait 5-7 days as specified on the spray can for the bronze and clear coat to fully cure( as specified on the cans) and wet sand the wheels are reapply the clear gloss coating ? Thanks
Wait 7 days, sand lightly with 800 grit (or at least 600) and then hit them with another round of clear coat. Slightly heavier this time.
Brad Angove thanks a lot Brad! Much appreciated!
Hey Brad. Love your videos man. They're straight forward and helpful. I am painting a bumper on my truck with Rustoleum Satin Enamel and I'm going to clear coat it with the double can technique I learned from you. Should I let the enamel completely dry, sand and then clear coat or put the clear coat on same day as the enamel coats and let them all bond? The can says apply a 2nd coat or clear coat within 1 hour or 48 hours. Sounds like I have the option but I'm wondering which way would provide the best results. Or do they both come out the same. The clear coat is Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Matte Clear.
If it's metallic, put on your first coat of clear 15 minutes later, then let it dry for 48 hours, sand smooth and do the rest of the clear. If it's not metallic you can just wait the 48 hours and do that. Waiting is the safe option to allow the lower layers to dry better.
@@BradAngove cool man. I'll let you know how it turns out.
@@BradAngove - Hey Brad it came out great I just don't see how to attach pics here. Thanks for the advice.
Glad it worked out for you
@@BradAngove 1 quick question: I must have gotten some residual paint on my windshield cuz I didn't tape that off and I can feel the drag is my windshield wipers go across. So what's the best thing to use on your windshield to get all that light paint film off?
Ive used rustoleum painters touch gloss on my kitchen cabinets. Unfortunatley they scratch pretty easily. Would you recommend I use rustoleum clear spray paint to put a protective coat on there?
Or use a polyurethane product to protect it?
If the polyurethane brush or foam on then would you say oil based or water based?
Thanks in advance.
The rustoleum clear should help. It will take a solid month to harden fully though.
Thanks dude you’re information is great straight forward to the point. Thanks again 💪👍
Glad I could help
Hi Brad!
Thank for your videos!
I have a question for you.
What would you use to paint bare aluminum and steel?? What would you apply on oil based paint.??
And I have to tell you that metal is used for barn door hardware wheels and tracks, so very heavy traffic.