ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- This video shows how to replace an EGR valve on the 2010 - 2015 Toyota Prius. This is a shortcut around replacing the whole cooler assembly attached to the EGR valve itself. Saves a bunch of time and labor, check engine light cleared and fixed
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You can get to the nut without taking too much apart, and without removing windshield tray. No need to take apart EGR assembly. In this video, the egr cooler was completely filled with carbon buildup. Spraying brake clean just moves that carbon back down into the cooler where it will clog up the cooler more, or get loosened and flow into the intake.
If your egr is this dirty and clogged I recommend going through the extra effort to remove the egr cooler from the vehicle and clean it.
Yes
I've heard that Seafoam engine treatment will help clean the EGR, cooler and intake.
fun fun fun.. things to do while the wiper assembly is off would be to change the plugs cause you need to remove that assembly to get to the plugs as well.
I am planing on the same thing 2 day weekend day 1 spark plugs and egr cleaning. Day 2 fuel injectors, and from part of egr and pvc valve. Maybe 1 day but nothing ever goes easy for me.
The EGR valve can be removed without having to remove the wiper assy and tray. Once removed the EGR cooler is often plugged and can be cleaned by putting a 12 inch piece of coat hanger in a drill and drill out each of holes in the cooler and then cleaning with carburetor cleaner. It is best to remove the EGR cooler and have it ultrasonically cleaned at an engine shop. My EGR valve had to be replaced no matter what I did to clean or lube it. Bought a new one for 200.00 on ebay. I also removed the intake manifold and cleaned it. If you remove the EGR cooler you will have to use a device called an Airlift tool to remove all the air from the cooling system and add coolant using this device. If you don't get all the air out of the cooling system the engine will overheat. See You Tube for videos on how to do this.
Holy hell, is this engine type that bad?
Great video. I won't be doing it, but I appreciate seeing what has to be done.
Great video, thank you…what i did to make getting to that difficult bolt out was to carefully cut the tab on the back of the valve housing with an angle grinder, which made removing and installing much easier…could get a wrench in there easily
I followed and had major FAILS. Without a oxy/acet torch to custom bend a wrench... its not gonna fit any wrench/crowfoot/ racheting wrench in that "super hard to reach" nut where Mr. Warren is pointing to. In the end, I removeD the entire EGR assembly. We used an extra reach 12 mm racheting wrench for the three Nuts in the back and took a long time to reach the 4th HIDDEN 12mm nut underneath the EGR cooler. Used a Torx E8 socket for the two Bolts in the back of EGR cooler. Good video John
For those saying no need to remove the top shield and wiper assembly, yes it is true to a certain extend. Sure you can still do the work but it will be much easier with the shield out of the way. After removing the shield many times, I find it less hassle to remove the shield than to deal with having limited space to work on the EGR. Not to mention chances of nut & bolts dropping into the engine bay is higher with such limited space.
My Prius C (Yaris Hybrid) just reached 100 000 miles. I took the EGR pipe off and found it suprisingly clean. I reckon - as long as the valve is not actually stuck already - you could just take off the solenoid housing and spray EGR cleaner into the outlet of the valve while operating the valve with your finger. It's easy enough, you could do it as preventative maintenance, maybe once a year, and you might never need to remove the valve? BTW I also use a fuel additive with PEA (Archoil AR 6900-P Max) which may well also keep the EGR system cleaner for longer... My piston heads are completely clean and free of carbon!
Yes I use marvel mystery oil
4 ounces every fill up
Boosts my mpg back to 48-50 mpg
Professionally explained. Thx for the tip.
Thank you brother. I have checked your video and changed ERG on my ct200h. The screw is a tricky one but I think if you put a sandwich bag under, and it's very easy to get it. Installation is easier, and use the bag too in case it drops. The workshop manual indicates bleeding the radiator and take off the entire cooler but actually it's not needed. Well done!
it is to do it right... the cooler is MUCH worse shape.
Remove the entire EGR cooler then clean form both sides of the EGR cooler. It is stated a clogged EGR cooler leads to head Gasket fail.
you guys were 2 more steps away from getting the whole thing out and properly clean everything. 20 more minutes and this job would have been the correct way of doing it.
Yeah if you spray brake clean into the EGR cooler it just going to make all that gunk in their soft and want to blow out and come up your valve again. I've heard if you're getting an engine misfire from the EGR you can unplug it as long as it's not stuck open. And the light will go off for the misfire since it won't let energy are exhaust into the intake anymore. I want to say you could drive around all year like this and then just plug up the EGR are before you need inspection so it starts working again. If the EGR valve is always closed then exhaust should not be going through the cooler and clock it up as much. I just did my EGR cooler for the third time. But this time it's my head gasket starting to go
@@TimZ007 Only issue with that is if I recall correctly they mix exhaust gases in to help with emissions and that in turn also cools down the combustion chamber temps some as well. Some say if the cooler or EGR system gets plugged it can cause hotter temps in the combustion chamber and that in turn could lead to head gaskets issues earlier. Just some speculation I've read but something worth noting.
@@TimZ007 How in the hell is the head gasket blowing if your keeping up on the EGR?
@@TimZ007 Running with the EGR disconnected is basically the same effect as running with clogged EGR. It will have Higher combustion temps and likely lead to Head gasket failure as well.
Yes, a shortcut, but better to remove the entire heat exchange radiator to get all the soot thoroughly cleared out, and clean the inlet manifold. How much do you value having the engine run at its optimum performance?
yep see th-cam.com/video/2_Hr2tAK7-c/w-d-xo.html and their other video (intake manifold). Might as well replace the PCV valve, install an oil catch can (to prevent dirty oil burning creating all that soot again) and charge spark plugs/coolant if you haven't while your in there... I did all that as preventive (2014 with 160k) reusing most parts for cheap, but took a while... done for another 150kmi :)
Wow, thank you so much you make it seem like I could actually do it. I’m gonna try.
You can do it!
Take out the EGR fins and power wash it with low pressure or spray it with a house. I've also heard one can soak it in parts cleaner.
While you're in there install a $30 catch can to help prevent the intake holes from getting clogged.
tip!use easy off oven cleaner.good job the job is tough.
How did you get access to the nut? No room to get it loose.
Very good info. great detail on a DIY job,congrats.
Just use a (rare earth magnet-driver) ..once lose, it will turn it and hold it from falling anywhere...
The only way to properly remedy this whole carbon and EGR nightmare. You need to remove and clean the entire intake manifold, throttle body, fuel injectors, egr and cooler off and to do a thorough cleaning. Replace the PCV valve or give it a good cleaning .
its actually a motor and not a solenoid. thats the reason why you could spin it off. It winds the valve up or down to control egr flow
You need to clean/replace the intake manifold as well because it's probably caked up with soot as well
You need to remove the radiator and clean it!! That is why the valve is getting clogged. Also you don't want to spray the brake clean and all the soot down into your exhaust. That will ruin your catalytic converter
Complete pain in the ass to do just replaced mine but I would recommend taking the cooler off and cleaning it . As mine was soild with carbon with no flow at all which could of been the reason why it though the code I decided to replace the valve anyway . 220k on the car. I used a pressure washer to clean the cooler while it was off the car blasted the carbon straight out.
th-cam.com/video/L-sRYCNIjFs/w-d-xo.html
at minute 9:27 what type tool do I need to removed the 2 nuts. please help me. any body thank you
what a long winded way of doing this job..if you have access to oxy/acet. bend a spanner to fit that hard to reach nut use a magnet on a stick..i did this whole job in 40 mins...never removed wipers/crap.at the back..
Dang! You are pretty cool. I just spent 5hrs taking the damn thing all apart! First timer.. The Torx on the bottom was hard to get to with out removing the wipers.. and the nut underneath. I have zero magnets.. i was playing operation
you dont get old and not get wise..ha ha
i had ours off again the tempory fix lasted about 18 moths .i have just fitted a brand new egr valve (£165),car runs like a dream. i was told by a tech the reason for the carbon build up is you dont change the oil enough..i agree. its now done 93000 miles..
I h8t working on the prius with its windsheld assembly but taking the valve isnt all that bad.
If the EGR failed, its due for a cleaning. Why take shortcuts on such good cars? Take the intake manifold and egr cooler out and clean everything out.
2010, 135k miles - Just purchased it as I didn't see any signs of coolant loss/oil looked great/no oil consuption noted by previous owner. ..Should I take these steps of cleaning or replacing all the EGR pieces and intake manifold NOW as a precaution maintenance?
Thanks
Yes
I'd be interested to know what the mileage was when the fault showed up...?
yes, i second that.
Yes, definitely would like to know at what mileage to expect this!
220k
Andrey Losetskiy Do you mean you don’t need for the fault code to show up? I was thinking of looking at mine, it’s at 90K.
@Andrey Losetskiy I think the misfire code came from the leaky head gasket caused by spot overheating caused by the clogged EGR system. He should clean the cooler better. I have used Chevron fuel exclusively in my 2013 and have a blown headgasket at 116000m
You showed jimmying the valve cooler away from the engine, but you didn't show how to remove the back bolt of the valve itself. Are there any trick to that?
I could never get access to that bolt enough to get it started.
I never removed that bolt, just pried it away. There's enough clearance to remove the nut if you just pry it away from the head about a quarter inch
(Gal here)
Oh man, this looks difficult. I must have missed the shortcut part of it because you just keep taking more stuff and more stuff and more stuff off. Are you going to remember where all that stuff goes again?
I think the Toyota dealer wants to put on a whole new intake manifold.
There is even more involved . As its not always just the EGR getting stuck. But the passageway pipe gets clogged up with carbon deposits because the PCV is designed in a poorly placed position , allowing these cars to burn excess oil. The excess oil carbon fouls the ERG pipe, the EGR, and the EGR cooler. Requiring all parts to be removed and cleaned out.. Servicing just the EGR alone wont always fix the issue.. Installing a oil catch can, can help prevent this EGR issue from occurring in the future.
Its not the intake manifold that he sprayed
Does this work with 4th Gen too? Also, couldn't I just lube the valve stem up with wd-40 every now and then like you said?
I have been doing this for a few years, so far so good.
did you try unplugging it? that's what im gonna try first
By the way, there's no need to take off the shield and wiper assembly for Lexus ct200h. Not sure if Prius need, but it looks same. There's enough room to take off two screws(with a spanner), and if you use a sandwich bag, you don't need to take it from the back, use your finger to loose it, and just let it fall into the bag. This significantly saves time, EGR valve can be replaced within 1 hour. This looks like a common problem, as my car is only 6 year 85K miles. It should work again if carefully cleaned but for peace of mind, replace a new value is better.
nice move with a bag! I made my own little "foil pan". Luckily i didnt drop the nut..
I've read it can be good to use a straight piece of copper wire to poke through the EGR cooler. That way you can get more cleaner spray though and remove more soot and carbon. I think you could also use an oven-cleaner product. If I'm not mistaken, the outlet from the cooler joins the exhaust well behind the cat. converter in which case there is no chance of damaging or blocking the cat. itself. I'm wondering if you tried to clean the old EGR valve at all? If it was only sticking because of gunk, you'd think it could be cleaned enough to live another day?
I've read only Gen3 (2016+) have the EGR AFTER the cat. I would NOT spray/gunk the cooler and risk the cat getting all that junk in earlier models...
Thank you for your clear explanation.
make sure you tread the inside of the EGR valve in and it is completely close or you will get horrible misfire from vacuum leaks open EGR valve
Don’t forget to check the EGR cooler as it to can become completely clogged with carbon could up causing the same problem
Build up
Crazy not to remove and clean egr radiator......mine was terrible...... soaked it in gas for 3 days...then blew out with air and use wire to run down holes..... do this if your going to keep a prius....
Great video
never do this way. the screw head will strip. it is reaally hard and I could not take it off this way
What year that Prius?
Can I use carburetor cleaner instead of brake cleaner down the egr cooler ?
Yes that should work just as well or better
Don't listen to him.. a sticky egr valve is the carbon built up from the egr cooler. It must be taken off and cleaned.. and the little egr tube having that much sludge means the intake must be cleaned also.. if you don't do all 3 things your wasting your time and setting up for head gasket failure..
Car has been running fine ever since the repair. 54k miles and counting w/ no check engine light. Still running great 😁
@@JohnCalebWarren As long as the EGR valve works again, it should be fine.
Is there any risk of damaging the valve by disassembling it that way?
It is difficult to unscrew the sensor with a magnet, as often the bolts fall apart. Rinse the tubes and it will work
this is the shortcut? jesus
I guess the shortcut was not removing the entire egr system and having to drain coolant and shit, i did this "shortcut" in 2017 but never changed the egr valve just cleaned up the intake, pcv valve, spark plugs and i still had a little engine rattle at times but now my engine is shaking when i accelerate.
DO NOT CLEAN THE EGR COOLER ON THE VEHICLE LIKE THIS VIDEO SHOWS!!!
Ryan L May I ask why did you say so?
agree, do NOT spray cleaner back into the start of the cooler. at best it will further clog up the beginning (the worst end) at worse it will send gumk down the pipe which will eventually make it's way to the catalyst converter that is next in line! Use a thin wire on a drill to loosen stuff up and vacum suck the heck out of it... or better yet take it apart and do a proper clean - soak in cleaner, pressure wash (and the pipe, and the intake manifold which will have that carbon+oil from PCV mixed into 4 small tubes which are yet another issue. Just follow these guys th-cam.com/video/2_Hr2tAK7-c/w-d-xo.html
I conducted the same procedure, swapping out the EGR valve with a used but good-test replacement. But now I get this CEL OBD2 codes: P0123 (Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input), P2135 (Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch). Im estimating the new EGR valve is a dud? Any thoughts?
What I would do is just disconnect the egr plug & plug it back into your old egr valve, clear the codes & see what codes come back on. I doubt it's the throttle position sensor, never seen one go bad
what did you pay for that new EGR?
3:20 😂 sounds about right 😂
Car makers hate DIYers. Every successful repair is money off thier books.These vehicles are designed to self destruct IMO
Hello @John Caleb Warren
Good video,how to contact you ?
Shortcut.
so how long is a complete job take?
With tools & experience it can be done in about an hour. Without will take you about 3 hours. It took me a couple hours start to finish. Second time I did it (different car) it took about an hour
1hr..
Does this help with oil consumption?
No, if your oil is disappearing then you have piston ring problems, hopefully you don’t have the 2010 Model
@@brandondelahoussaye299 I have the 2010 Model, what is the concern with it?
I'll keep my gen2 Prius til. falls apart
It won't if you live in mild/cold area. Probably only the brake booster at one point.
@@rondhole Ireland. 13 years old using it 3 years and just got new rear brake rotors cost $50 ,checked with Techstream ,everything else ok. brake booster problem looks like big job ,hope won't happen
No
It’s not short cut
You opened a lot of things for that
It’s just 8 mints job to take out egr
No need to open wiper cover etc or loos egr cooler
Your westing time
This is virtually impossible to do. I’m really pissed off at Toyota right now
Yeah it's a pain...
90% of Toyota is designed well, but this so happens to be the 10% that isn't
Corey Graham I have no car repair experience and did this. So not impossible. Intimidating, but not impossible.
Or you can just pay the dealer 1K
Troy Shields hell no to paying the dealer that kind of money. I eventually did have success on my own and completed this but nonetheless there were some serious design issues to work through with the repair.
@@TheCgraham18 I understand, but there is only so much room down there and the fact that it is only a 2.5 hr labor job per Chilton's and the Dealership means that once someone has done it a few times and knows their way around that it's not that difficult a job. Especially if you have a lift and can get to the two lower studs and the bolt on the one stud that is blocked from view overhead. I think the design is fair.
Troy Shields honestly the worst part were a couple of those nuts/bolts that were rough to get to. A lift would have made things way easier. Also had to get an impact screw driver to get the egr assembly screws out because they used Philips head screws instead of small bolts with socket heads. In my mind that’s a stupid design. I’ve read a lot of places where the screws strip and then what? Like I said I’m not a professional mechanic lol.
well done But you lift EGR valve cooler full of carbons lol
Yes, he only did a very partial clean. Most of the gunk went to the bottom of the cooler once he sprayed. Once the engine is running again, the gunk he pushed to the bottom of the EGR cooler will be sucked up again. Not much help for the life of the cooler. Only half the job in this video.
Like a hydronic electric valve.
Yes, he only did a very partial clean. Most of the gunk went to the bottom of the cooler once he sprayed. Once the engine is running again, the gunk he pushed to the bottom of the EGR cooler will be sucked up again. Not much help for the life of the cooler. Only half the job in this video.
Yes, the proper way is removing the whole intake, and EGR cooler together with the valve and the front pipes. Clean it really well in all inlets.
Why not clean it? I've seen people clean that part.
Could you comment on how you removed the two screws holding the black cap on the EGR valve. You show near the beginning, screws off.
I've had the EGR valve and cooler off, cleaned them and all, but did not disassemble the valve. Just acquired a (Vessel) JIS #2 impact screw driver, which has got to be the right tool for the job, but soaking with solvent, and using a heat gun, and wacking the impact screw driver with just a regular carpenter's hammer, it's no go. At least the JIS bit is not chewing up the screw head. Probably a small sledge hammer is what I need.
The smart money is likely to just leave it be, but I'm a dog with a bone, lol.
They are extremely tight, you have to press really hard (turning screwdriver counter clockwise) and with the egr still mounted to the car, or you could mount it in a vice
I was finally successful at this, today (revisiting the EGR). First off, I put a wood block, slightly thicker than the studs (on other end of valve) underneath, placed the valve with cap at top on a chopping block, warmed the "ears" the screws go into with a heat gun, then gave the screws firm taps with an impact screw driver, using a fairly heavy ball pien hammer. Hold the impact driver very firmly on the screw head, turned firmly in the counterclockwise (unscrewing) direction, give solid taps. It might take a few tries; just escalate slowly. They broke loose finally, no fanfare, no damage. :)
(Just realize I'm answering MYSELF, lol. Anyways, a successful "update".)
I am having same issue plus losing coolant. did you have coolant loss also?
Blown head gasket :(
If your loosing coolant it's a blown headgasket, prob wet down in cyl #2
He has a bad head gasket too. That is the misfire code. It may not be evident for a while. We should have a class action on this. The EGR system was different on Gen2 and was again redesigned on Gen 4
i am having the exact issues shown here, thank you! we love a good shortcut
Thank you John, I guess I will sell my car at 100000 miles. so I don't have to deal with this pain in the @$$.