I work in the aviation industry here in the States, and I have come across (numerous times) rivnuts with an anti-rotational key molded in to the side under the head. A small notch is made on the hole that accommodates the key. It requires a little extra hole prep, but is worth it to prevent rivnut from ever spinning.
Yes, the Achilles heel for the rivnut is the size of the hole. It needs to be exacting because the splines on the side need to grip the hole so it doesn't spin. I didn't know about plusnuts, they look interesting, probably worth having. The great thing about hand installation is you don't need as much room for a bulky tool.
Great info! The only downside of using a bolt to tighten the riv/plus nut is potentially the extra stress you're putting on the thread section of the nut as the bolt is turning and pulling. The proper tool just pulls on the thread section without turning ... just a thought, not sure it makes that much difference.
Brilliant Darryl. There’s places where the typical rivnut tool won’t allow enough area to operate it. The right tool for the job can save a lot of headache.
Darryl, your timing is almost impeccable! I just bought a kit of Rivnuts...had I known, I wouldn't got the Plusnuts. I didn't buy the tool though because reports about the propensity of the ebay tools to fail seemed too much of a risk, and shelling out over $100 for a "proper" tool that look the same as the ebay specials didn't seem very attractive for the 50 or so rivnuts I will use, so I figured I could set them with a bolt and something...you gave me the perfect answer (the 18V impact driver is an excellent option!) - THANKS!! See you next time.
Here in America, we use both Metric and SAE screws/bolts and nuts. There is a very slight difference in diameters between the Metric and SAE screws/bolts..so if a Metric is ever so close to what ya need, try an SAE screw or bolt.
Beautiful Darryl. Thanks. I imagine if the hole is a tad large, the rivnut/plusnut will spin, so you would need to start it with a fitted nut on the top that you screw down compressing the riv/plus nut.
If you tack weld a piece of 10mm round bar about 250mm long onto the 12mm nut you don't need to use a spanner to hold it as you gun it up . Just throwing it out there.
I like the rivnut or plus it concept and they work well however, because the lip on the captured but you can’t draw material flush together the same way you would with standard bolt and nut. And that in some application is a major issue. The DIY tool is absolutely genius and much better IMO.
Why dont they use the nut to pull the stationary bolt outwards so it pulls the rivnut without stressing its threads by rotataing .... like all the normal tools do ?????????!
The plus nuts or something very close in design is sold in UK for fibreglass where a rivnut puts too much pressure on the edges of the hole. i would have thought that a plus nut was more likely to relax than a rivnut because the bent metal part is larger and therefore only a miniscule relaxation would result in a slacker hold. The rivnut on the other hand is much stiffer and would have to relax to a proportionately higher degree. This principle does not matter for fibreglass as the wings will bite into the material.
In practise in sheet metal situations like camper vans where plus nuts are very popular they seem to hold better than rivnuts. They all have their issues though, I've had so many rivnuts spin over the years as they age its not funny.
@@DarrylSheather The security of rivnuts must come down to the way they are used as there is no logical reason for them to relax their grip on the sheet metal. I can see an issue with rivnuts over time if the sheet metal corrodes and loses thickness around the hole or if the fixing is under use where the bolts are taken out several times The only use I put rivnuts to is in general tightening the bolt just once. Also, I would imagine that where there is stress in the panel that the rivnut would effectively fret in the hole. Where there is any longterm stress on the fixing the best way iss to weld a nut to the base metal to create a blind fixing i.e. old skool. I'm not decrying the use of plus nuts, its just that here they are recommended solely for fibreglass or other soft material, they are like a metal version of a brolly anchor used in buildings
really good show ... Enjoy the testing of the tool vs homemade tool. Also I want you to know that I appreciate the very short introduction to your channel. For some reason people on TH-cam think that these introductions at the first part of the videos is a nice little thingy,,, Its really not... You will see that the people with over a million subscribers do not have intro clips, they just go straight into the meat of the video. with nothing more than a Hello and jump straight in...
@DarrylSheather NICE ! I'm in a Situation now where I need to put Rivnuts in my Bicycle. The Ones for mounting Bottle Cages. I removed the one that spinned. So there's a Hole now to put a new One in. The Plus Nut looks VERY interesting for that purpose. But now I'm suspicious ^^ It's a thin Alloy Roadbike Frame with round Tubes . Are those Plus Nuts better for a flat surface? Or can they be used for thin Tubes, too ? ( M5 oder max. M6 ) Thanks for the VERY informative Video! Thumb's Up 👍
Thanks for the great video mate, having a bit of trouble with the riv nut skewing, and not going in straight. The bolt I'm using is 50mm with a m12 galvanised coupler. Do I need a bigger bolt? Yours looks about 70mm. Cheers!
If you notice I seat the rivnut and then hold the spanner that holds the coupler down on washer and the job this spreads the load and holds it straight. So all the bolt is doing is drawing up the rivnut. The bolt just needs to be long enough to go to the end of the rivnut before driving it home with the driver.
I am trying the tool with plusnuts but the plusnut is always free spinning ? Is there a trick I am missing because the plusnuts in you video seem to be loose at first ?
Bom dia. Para montar um kit de fixação de porcas rebite, quais seriam as dimensões de porcas sextavadas com medidas de roscas, para kit roscas M3 a M12? Desde agradeço por compartilhar ideias e soluções. Cordialmente, Claudio Fernandes da Silva Contagem/ Minas Gerais/ Brasil
I have an application where I want to use a Plusnut, but I don't have clearance on one side. I was thinking that before installing I could cut out the section of the Plusnut that bows out on that side and still have three wings on hold the Plusnut in place.
I work in the aviation industry here in the States, and I have come across (numerous times) rivnuts with an anti-rotational key molded in to the side under the head. A small notch is made on the hole that accommodates the key. It requires a little extra hole prep, but is worth it to prevent rivnut from ever spinning.
Interesting!
I hope those are released to the public soon. We need the help….
Yes, the Achilles heel for the rivnut is the size of the hole. It needs to be exacting because the splines on the side need to grip the hole so it doesn't spin. I didn't know about plusnuts, they look interesting, probably worth having. The great thing about hand installation is you don't need as much room for a bulky tool.
Great info! The only downside of using a bolt to tighten the riv/plus nut is potentially the extra stress you're putting on the thread section of the nut as the bolt is turning and pulling. The proper tool just pulls on the thread section without turning ... just a thought, not sure it makes that much difference.
I was not aware of these. Like an exploding rivet, brilliant!
Well, I learned something new - Thx for sharing !!
Not a problem
Brilliant Darryl. There’s places where the typical rivnut tool won’t allow enough area to operate it. The right tool for the job can save a lot of headache.
Flippin' brilliant, thank you so much.
This worked for me I appreciate the info
Glad it helped
OH. MY. GOODNESS. 😅
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Great shirt I live about 3 hours from there... Great video thanks mate!!
Darryl, your timing is almost impeccable! I just bought a kit of Rivnuts...had I known, I wouldn't got the Plusnuts.
I didn't buy the tool though because reports about the propensity of the ebay tools to fail seemed too much of a risk, and shelling out over $100 for a "proper" tool that look the same as the ebay specials didn't seem very attractive for the 50 or so rivnuts I will use, so I figured I could set them with a bolt and something...you gave me the perfect answer (the 18V impact driver is an excellent option!) - THANKS!! See you next time.
S. Uz🎉 qsqss sdsssz😢sd😊ssqv😢u😢sssuhzzszews😊zses😢. Ssss
Ss😊ssrsshhsudl😢😢usg😊ssessess😊😊😊e😊s😊e😊😊sr😊de
Here in America, we use both Metric and SAE screws/bolts and nuts. There is a very slight difference in diameters between the Metric and SAE screws/bolts..so if a Metric is ever so close to what ya need, try an SAE screw or bolt.
Incredibly helpful! Well explained. You saved me a bundle!
Great to hear!
Thanks Darryl, super helpful! 🙏🙏
Thanks for the fine informative video. A lot of us probably have nuts and bolts already that would work. Take care.
Beautiful Darryl. Thanks. I imagine if the hole is a tad large, the rivnut/plusnut will spin, so you would need to start it with a fitted nut on the top that you screw down compressing the riv/plus nut.
Thank you Darryl, great information.
Glad it was helpful!
This is wonderful!!
great video, I learned something really useful today
Thank you..
If you tack weld a piece of 10mm round bar about 250mm long onto the 12mm nut you don't need to use a spanner to hold it as you gun it up . Just throwing it out there.
Genius!
Well done and to the point. Thank you sir
Awesome video Man!!! Thank you!
No problem!
Great video and great diy tool 🤟
Glad you liked it!
thank you so much , easy and sheap..!!
Excellent - thank you
The plus nuts definitely look a lot strong though. Thanks for sharing.
No problems
thanks for posting, good info.
I like the rivnut or plus it concept and they work well however, because the lip on the captured but you can’t draw material flush together the same way you would with standard bolt and nut. And that in some application is a major issue. The DIY tool is absolutely genius and much better IMO.
Good one D...thanks
My pleasure
revit nuts tool makers out of bussines😯
it does work well
I've got the posh version of that tool, with a stainless coupler rather than galvanised.
Nice!
Why dont they use the nut to pull the stationary bolt outwards so it pulls the rivnut without stressing its threads by rotataing .... like all the normal tools do ?????????!
I have found the RIVNUT for thinner metals.
Brilliant!
great job and great video, im getting plus nuts, also you dont have to demurred the inside of the hole as should be done with riv nuts
Interesting!
Glad you think so!
The plus nuts or something very close in design is sold in UK for fibreglass where a rivnut puts too much pressure on the edges of the hole. i would have thought that a plus nut was more likely to relax than a rivnut because the bent metal part is larger and therefore only a miniscule relaxation would result in a slacker hold. The rivnut on the other hand is much stiffer and would have to relax to a proportionately higher degree. This principle does not matter for fibreglass as the wings will bite into the material.
In practise in sheet metal situations like camper vans where plus nuts are very popular they seem to hold better than rivnuts.
They all have their issues though, I've had so many rivnuts spin over the years as they age its not funny.
@@DarrylSheather The security of rivnuts must come down to the way they are used as there is no logical reason for them to relax their grip on the sheet metal. I can see an issue with rivnuts over time if the sheet metal corrodes and loses thickness around the hole or if the fixing is under use where the bolts are taken out several times The only use I put rivnuts to is in general tightening the bolt just once. Also, I would imagine that where there is stress in the panel that the rivnut would effectively fret in the hole. Where there is any longterm stress on the fixing the best way iss to weld a nut to the base metal to create a blind fixing i.e. old skool.
I'm not decrying the use of plus nuts, its just that here they are recommended solely for fibreglass or other soft material, they are like a metal version of a brolly anchor used in buildings
Good stuff!
Glad you enjoyed it
What are they made of if you're using them on aluminum? And is this for parts you want to disassemble- otherwise why not weld.
Great DIY tool. Thanks!
What length are the bolt and oversize nut in your version?
Exelent info son Mike scotland
thank you
really good show ... Enjoy the testing of the tool vs homemade tool. Also I want you to know that I appreciate the very short introduction to your channel. For some reason people on TH-cam think that these introductions at the first part of the videos is a nice little thingy,,, Its really not... You will see that the people with over a million subscribers do not have intro clips, they just go straight into the meat of the video. with nothing more than a Hello and jump straight in...
Thanks mate!
@DarrylSheather
NICE !
I'm in a Situation now where I need to put Rivnuts in my Bicycle.
The Ones for mounting Bottle Cages.
I removed the one that spinned. So there's a Hole now to put a new One in.
The Plus Nut looks VERY interesting for that purpose.
But now I'm suspicious ^^
It's a thin Alloy Roadbike Frame with round Tubes .
Are those Plus Nuts better for a flat surface?
Or can they be used for thin Tubes, too ? ( M5 oder max. M6 )
Thanks for the VERY informative Video!
Thumb's Up 👍
Plus nuts work amazingly better for tubing than rivnuts. The wings grip the tube way stronger than a flat surface.
Thanks for the great video mate, having a bit of trouble with the riv nut skewing, and not going in straight. The bolt I'm using is 50mm with a m12 galvanised coupler.
Do I need a bigger bolt? Yours looks about 70mm. Cheers!
If you notice I seat the rivnut and then hold the spanner that holds the coupler down on washer and the job this spreads the load and holds it straight. So all the bolt is doing is drawing up the rivnut. The bolt just needs to be long enough to go to the end of the rivnut before driving it home with the driver.
@@DarrylSheather Thanks mate.
Hi thanks for the video very helpful, can I ask where you get the plus nuts from ?
you should be able to get them via eBay
I am trying the tool with plusnuts but the plusnut is always free spinning ? Is there a trick I am missing because the plusnuts in you video seem to be loose at first ?
Tighten the bolt by hand to take up the slack and then push down on the spanner your using to put a bit of pressure on the top of the plus nut
Bom dia. Para montar um kit de fixação de porcas rebite, quais seriam as dimensões de porcas sextavadas com medidas de roscas, para kit roscas M3 a M12?
Desde agradeço por compartilhar ideias e soluções.
Cordialmente,
Claudio Fernandes da Silva
Contagem/ Minas Gerais/ Brasil
With this tool do you really need the long section of the tool? Couldn't you just use an oversize nut?
You could.
I have an application where I want to use a Plusnut, but I don't have clearance on one side. I was thinking that before installing I could cut out the section of the Plusnut that bows out on that side and still have three wings on hold the Plusnut in place.
Test on a piece of material before comminti g to the drill
That panel is way to thick for that rivnut.
🤷♂️
Huh ? Why would it be too thick ?
Man… short story long.
I still can't find ⅜plus nuts
www.rivetsonline.com/steel-cross-nut-pre-bulbed-size-38-16-grip-range-0020-0280/rn3816280pnb