Awesome video!! For others like myself that are doing this, and want to add some weight to the light plastic prop do what I did: I drilled a small hole in the back of the handle area and used a small funnel to fill the body of the blaster with fine grain hobby sand. You can get this at Hobby Lobby or other crafting stores. After shaking the blaster and adding more sand a number of times, till it was completely full, (u don't want empty pockets of sand that shift when you handle the blaster so fill completely), I filled the hole I drilled with metal puddy. I also used metal puddy to fill any unwanted groves in the front and back of the handle body as these areas had pockets that looked odd to me and had a seam line that needed sanding anyway. I then sanded it all down and went with the primer and painting process in this video. My blaster weighs like an actual gun and doesn't feel like a light weight plastic kids toy any longer! Hope this helps others, and I'll see you at a comicon somewhere off world!!
Great video and following along this weekend. Just clear coated (Both black and clear were Rustoleum) and I got crazing on various parts of the gun. Been the most frustrating aspect of my Mando build on other parts as well.
Typically, I've found that any unwanted interaction with their paints is a result of it not being completely dry before applying the next layer OR applying the clear too heavy. Unfortunately the only solution is sanding it down and starting over.
Another thing I suggest doing (on top of this already outstanding work) is maybe drilling a hole in the barrel and possibly in the bottom of the handle and putting in an aluminum or steel rod to give it that extra weight. Obviously, if you were to do the handle as well, you would of course need spot putty to fill the hole in. Great work!
Very nice! If you want a high reflective finish with Rub-n-Buff, don't use a gloved finger. The natural oils from your fingers actually helps during the buffing process. Great job on the repaint!
I love weathering props. It's the make or break point for me. I use burt umber , black,dark red and cad yellow water paint thinned with quick shine floor rejuvinatior. Can just use water as well if your sealing afterwards. I don't deal seal with the rejuvinatior. Some water colors are semi transparent, that is what you want sometimes. Also I use real dewaxed garnet shellac on faux wood parts. It creates a depth that is magical if you french polish then distress it.
Your so fun!! I have been making a blaster for my Rocket Cosplay. I might change it and use some of these tips, this was much easier than my crazy painted details! I love that handle!!
@@VanOaksProps I also absolutely loved your closing shot. Perfect way to end it. You should keep using landscape scenes matching the Star Wars environment your prop is from in future videos
Yeah, it was my favorite of all the "hero" shots. Vasquez Rocks, where we filmed this, is such an amazing place it's hard to choose what to film/photograph there. So we just tried a bunch of different stuff and luckily got some good shots (it's really bright out there and was hard to review footage).
Thanks. Yeah, I was really surprised at how good a job they did on it. I believe it's 1:1 scale and aside from being hollow (which I remedied by backfilling with resin) it's a great piece.
Love how the video started off with I'm doing sanding off screen.Maybe we need a stunt double. I know - I hate sanding!! This prop just turned out fantastic but I would be weary if you take it outside of the house.You may need your Carry and conceal permit. That looks so sweet.
As a multiple revolver owner, I have to say that the brightest and least rusty area will be the straps at the grips. Every time you manipulate a gun, you grab it by the handle, right? That should have been hit with Rub N Buff, not rust. Generally, a very convincing conversion.
Hey, love the video. My son and I are following it step by step. One question: for the wood grain effect with stain, how long did you wait to clear coat it? My stain is still tacky after a few hours, and I’m wondering if this is as dry as it will get
Did you spray it down with clear coat in between applying the silver and gold rub and buff> just wondering if the silver pulled off when you removed the tape.
No. I just applied each one. Because it’s a wax and I applied a light coat of the silver and really worked it into the surface it wasn’t affected by the tape.
Would it be beneficial to use a clear coat right after applying the graphite to seal it in so I don’t mess up the application when handling it for panting the other parts
In your materials list, the link for wax paint leads to “chalk” paint. It’s Java, so I wonder if it’s correct? I can use this chalk paint for the grunge? Thanks!!!
They must have changed the product at that link. You’ll want the wax paint. amzn.to/3jz30WD Do NOT use chalk paint. It dries far too quickly and leaves a matte finish.
Yeah, there was a run on them not too long after I released the video. I think the cosplay community realized just how good they could look and bought up all of them.
@@VanOaksProps Aye, we tend to do that with pretty much every blaster from Rubies. I have probably six myself. But I missed this one. I'll just have to wait for the next batch. Lets see, I have the Han Solo blaster, the Boba Fett blaster, the Jango Fett blaster, a Stormtrooper blaster, a Star Trek TNG phaser and the Batfleck Grappling Gun. All painted up. So yeah, six.
Bravo! Great tutorial and the finished product looks fantastic!
Thanks, Brian!
Yes yes ^
Hi smugglers room I am a big fan
that powder is some kinda magic🤯
Yeah, it's crazy good. Messy, but crazy.
I’m amazed how well you make plastic look like wood!
Looks great.
You've been very helpful 😉, I've been following your video, it's perfect..thanks
Thank you so much for posting this. Just made a start this weekend on my kid's Mando rifle, based on your walk through. Should look great, when done.
Thank you, Van Oaks! This is super helpful in getting a great, realistic looking prop!
You bet!
Awesome video!!
For others like myself that are doing this, and want to add some weight to the light plastic prop do what I did: I drilled a small hole in the back of the handle area and used a small funnel to fill the body of the blaster with fine grain hobby sand. You can get this at Hobby Lobby or other crafting stores. After shaking the blaster and adding more sand a number of times, till it was completely full, (u don't want empty pockets of sand that shift when you handle the blaster so fill completely), I filled the hole I drilled with metal puddy. I also used metal puddy to fill any unwanted groves in the front and back of the handle body as these areas had pockets that looked odd to me and had a seam line that needed sanding anyway. I then sanded it all down and went with the primer and painting process in this video. My blaster weighs like an actual gun and doesn't feel like a light weight plastic kids toy any longer! Hope this helps others, and I'll see you at a comicon somewhere off world!!
Thank you so much for this! I’m going to try and upgrade the white and orange blaster rifle for my son!
That is freaking amazing! Thank you for the step-by-step clarity and for letting us know what paints and materials you use.
Absolutely! Thanks for checking it out.
Just bought this prop I will be doing this step by step. Awesome job
Good luck! Let me know if you have questions
Your tutorial was the best. Mine turned the awesome!
Thanks! Glad yours turned out well!
I would’ve never thought to use spices for rust, that’s genius!
Definitely a good option if that's all you've got on hand.
Looks FANtastic! thanks for the info!
You bet!
What a difference. Great job on this prop.
Thanks so much! For being a cheap toy I'm really happy with how it turned out and will be displaying it proudly with my other blasters & lightsabers.
Wow, great and detailed tutorial. Especially love the wood grain technique.
I recommend weighting guns buy taking them apart, filling with nails and pouring epoxy on top.
Great video and following along this weekend. Just clear coated (Both black and clear were Rustoleum) and I got crazing on various parts of the gun. Been the most frustrating aspect of my Mando build on other parts as well.
Typically, I've found that any unwanted interaction with their paints is a result of it not being completely dry before applying the next layer OR applying the clear too heavy. Unfortunately the only solution is sanding it down and starting over.
@@VanOaksProps I totally agree and thank you for the response. Will allow a day in between each step. Or at least a few hours of drying.
Nice work and cool seeing your Star Wars side!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Nicely done! Turned out great.
Thanks again! I really appreciate you sharing your techniques.
Awesome!😁👍🏿
As always fantastic. This is the way.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome sauce! Excellent tutorial.
Thanks so much!
Another thing I suggest doing (on top of this already outstanding work) is maybe drilling a hole in the barrel and possibly in the bottom of the handle and putting in an aluminum or steel rod to give it that extra weight. Obviously, if you were to do the handle as well, you would of course need spot putty to fill the hole in. Great work!
Wicked job!
Thanks!!
Very nice! If you want a high reflective finish with Rub-n-Buff, don't use a gloved finger. The natural oils from your fingers actually helps during the buffing process. Great job on the repaint!
Thanks for the tip!
I love weathering props. It's the make or break point for me. I use burt umber , black,dark red and cad yellow water paint thinned with quick shine floor rejuvinatior. Can just use water as well if your sealing afterwards. I don't deal seal with the rejuvinatior. Some water colors are semi transparent, that is what you want sometimes. Also I use real dewaxed garnet shellac on faux wood parts. It creates a depth that is magical if you french polish then distress it.
Thanks for the tips!
My go to spice is paprika! Love using spices on props.
Love that!
Your so fun!! I have been making a blaster for my Rocket Cosplay. I might change it and use some of these tips, this was much easier than my crazy painted details! I love that handle!!
I love that!
This is spectacular!
Thank you, Marcus!
Very creative video. You're one prop closer to making Han Solo frozen in carbonite
Ha! Thank you. This is a very true statement, especially now that my 3D printer is up and running again.
@@VanOaksProps I also absolutely loved your closing shot. Perfect way to end it. You should keep using landscape scenes matching the Star Wars environment your prop is from in future videos
Yeah, it was my favorite of all the "hero" shots. Vasquez Rocks, where we filmed this, is such an amazing place it's hard to choose what to film/photograph there. So we just tried a bunch of different stuff and luckily got some good shots (it's really bright out there and was hard to review footage).
Just got the blaster today I painted it black now I doing the rest tomorrow
Really fantastic!!!
Thanks a lot!
Awesome shot at the end. You'd never know it was Rubies
Thanks. Yeah, I was really surprised at how good a job they did on it. I believe it's 1:1 scale and aside from being hollow (which I remedied by backfilling with resin) it's a great piece.
Never seen that graphite method and I was extremely surprised
Yeah, it’s very easy and has great results.
Love how the video started off with I'm doing sanding off screen.Maybe we need a stunt double. I know - I hate sanding!! This prop just turned out fantastic but I would be weary if you take it outside of the house.You may need your Carry and conceal permit. That looks so sweet.
Yeah, no one wants to watch me (or anybody for that matter) sanding. Best believe I had the thought that someone may report me while we were filming.
Cool
❤❤
SO good, Derek!
Thanks, Charlie!
Awesome job, was easy to follow along, I did want to ask what kind of clear coat did you use?
Thanks! I used Krylon satin crystal clear.
As a multiple revolver owner, I have to say that the brightest and least rusty area will be the straps at the grips. Every time you manipulate a gun, you grab it by the handle, right? That should have been hit with Rub N Buff, not rust. Generally, a very convincing conversion.
Gotta love the copyright-free soundtrack. I'll call it "Babysitting Bounty Hunter."
Hahaha!
Crazy how much this episodes background looks like the latest Mandolorian episode.
Right?! It's amazing to see in person. Feels very alien.
This is great! You sound just like the Happy Trooper lol
Thank you. This was a fun one off and I'll be back to my usual self next week.
Hey, love the video. My son and I are following it step by step. One question: for the wood grain effect with stain, how long did you wait to clear coat it? My stain is still tacky after a few hours, and I’m wondering if this is as dry as it will get
I’d give it 24 hours to dry. Then you can clear.
"Spices will do in a pinch" he says! Da man has jokes!
Glad somebody got it. Haha
Thanks for the video!! Are you just using a hairdryer to speed up drying?
I'm using a heat gun on it's lowest setting (which I don't recommend on 3d prints), but a hair dryer would work as well.
That was awesome!!! Was the blaster 1:1 scale ?
Thanks! Not sure if it’s exactly 1:1 but it’s close.
Turmeric? Looks like Sansanna Spice to me...!
Great job!!
Ha! Thanks!
What kind of clear coat do you use? Satin, gloss, Matt etc?
On this prop, I believe I used satin.
Cinnamon is a great addative on wet paint looks just like rust as is...
Did you spray it down with clear coat in between applying the silver and gold rub and buff> just wondering if the silver pulled off when you removed the tape.
No. I just applied each one. Because it’s a wax and I applied a light coat of the silver and really worked it into the surface it wasn’t affected by the tape.
I have the mandalorian amban phase pulse rifle from Nerf that I’ll let you paint for a video!
"I see we meet once again mando," *sniff sniff* "dude is that cinnamon?"
Hahaha
Would it be beneficial to use a clear coat right after applying the graphite to seal it in so I don’t mess up the application when handling it for panting the other parts
Definitely.
@@VanOaksProps what type would you suggest for sealing in graphite
I’d suggest a satin clear coat. Both Rustoleum and Krylon make good ones.
@@VanOaksProps awesome, thanks for the info!
Really weird question, but how well does this gun twirl in the hand?
Ha! It’s not bad if you fill it with something to give it more weight in the handle/body.
In your materials list, the link for wax paint leads to “chalk” paint. It’s Java, so I wonder if it’s correct? I can use this chalk paint for the grunge? Thanks!!!
They must have changed the product at that link. You’ll want the wax paint. amzn.to/3jz30WD
Do NOT use chalk paint. It dries far too quickly and leaves a matte finish.
How long did this take? Cause I want to try doing this.
Not very long. I think I did it in an afternoon.
Aww man, everywhere is out of stock for that Rubies Blaster.
Yeah, there was a run on them not too long after I released the video. I think the cosplay community realized just how good they could look and bought up all of them.
@@VanOaksProps Aye, we tend to do that with pretty much every blaster from Rubies. I have probably six myself. But I missed this one. I'll just have to wait for the next batch.
Lets see, I have the Han Solo blaster, the Boba Fett blaster, the Jango Fett blaster, a Stormtrooper blaster, a Star Trek TNG phaser and the Batfleck Grappling Gun. All painted up. So yeah, six.
Where can I find the rub & buff ?
Most craft stores carry it and there's links to Amazon in the video description as well.
Isn't the trigger supposed to be brass as well.
I believe so. I painted this before we had really good images of Mando’s blaster so it’s likely to have some inconsistencies.
When you order your Mandalorian Theme Song from Wish.
HA! Honestly, I'm just trying to keep from getting demonetized.
I am going to write my name in aurebesh and put tally marks for how many times I can spin a toy gun (47 times).