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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- The Xtool appears to not work well at all and actively causes issues on cars, or at least my car as shown in the video. I can’t make sense of it. Seems there are lots of people who like this tool. Idk if these reviews are fake and everyone is shilling, or maybe I just picked 3 cars that the tool doesn’t work with. Either way I’m returning it.
![X-TOOL D9 PRO - 21 Things To Know BEFORE YOU BUY [REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VKRpunuVkYU/mqdefault.jpg)
![X-TOOL D9 PRO - 21 Things To Know BEFORE YOU BUY [REVIEW]](/img/tr.png)
Some follow up for those interested: after returning the D7, I used a scope to analyze the MAF and found that it was not performing properly in a snap throttle test. That’s ultimately what the lean issue was that was shown in the live data screenshots from the BlueDriver app. I narrowed it down from a few other tests before deciding the MAF was the culprit. The MAF was the only part I put in this car. I’m not a parts changer and I’m doing these repairs for my own knowledge and enjoyment, and therefore take a very large amount of time to analyze problems I have. The scope is my go to over a scan tool in just about every case except for gathering live data or doing bidirectional tests.
The purchase of the Xtool was spurred to use bidirectional controls to make chasing the problem easier. The D7 simply does not work. It never connects and causes the no start on top of the original lean issue. The D7 no start is consistent and not intermittent. It happens every time I use the D7. I opted in the end to return the D7 and buy the OBD Link MX+. It had a better PID rate than the BlueDriver but lacks directional control. I specifically needed the faster refresh rate to test lean and rich conditions with my O2 sensors while driving. I almost used the 2 channel scope I have to observe both O2 sensors but it’s impractical while driving and playing back data.
If anyone is interested in the before and after waveforms of the bad MAF vs the good MAF let me know and I can link the photos and describe how I got the correct diagnosis.
To be perfectly clear, the issue shown in the screenshots is not in anyway related to what the D7 is doing as shown in the no start condition in the video.
Check out the difference between can bus and single wire systems like k line. This car is probably kwp but there are many others. The refresh rate of the data is a function of not only the tool but the bus that it communicates the data over. The no start needs to be diagnosed more thoroughly before condemning the tool. Pins 4 and 5 of the dlc are ground. If you have poor ground on one and not the other and connect a tool it more than likely could be back feeding voltage to the other ground and creating an issue. Most tools bridge pins 4 and 5. I've actually had cars that stall when i removed My scan tool due to providing a good ground through the bridge between 4 and 5. I'd suspect you have a poor ground on this vehicle. The other possibility is it pulling the bus down and creating a no start because of an immobilizer. You need to dig deeper before condemning it. Also having one scan tool isn't enough. I prefer to always have at least one launch and one autel scan tool. I do mobile programming and diagnostics every day.
@@zackarymcclain164 I appreciate the reply. The no start is gone and has been gone ever since the tool stopped being used. The no start also never existed before using the tool. I was using the tool to attempt to diagnose a lean issue before it started creating the no start. I also ended up getting an Autel mx808 and it reads fine. I’m confident the xtool is simply just a bad scan tool at least for this specific car. Again I can replicate it every time and the tool never could actually communicate with the vehicle. I realize it’s a weird issue but I’m 100% confident it was the scan tool
From all the other reviews on this tool is rated pretty high!
One thing I've noticed is you're impatient and all over the place. This defeats the purpose of what you're trying to achieve!
Apparently you weren't happy with the plug-in Wi-Fi unit and then you trashed the D7. It's not the diagnostic testers: you have to understand how they work, and what diagnostic tools you need to use for the older cars.
On a 2000 Nissan you aren't going to get a lot of function test, because the car doesn't support them!
What you need is a Power Probe device, and watch Scanner Danner's videos on troubleshooting automotive systems.
I hope this helps!😀
Well said man
Retired professional mechanic here. I worked next to the most experienced Nissan Tech at a Nissan dealer. One of these pre Renault Altimas was in the shop, dead. We used only Dealership owned Nissan factory scan tool on a Panasonic Tough book laptop. Drove it into the shop, and it was a no start once in the bay. We struggled with it for a very long time. Concluded that it was an immobilizer issue(erroneously), and called in an immobilizer key third party specialist who travels from dealership to dealership solving lost keys issues. He worked on it for an entire morning, still no start. Around lunch time, he made a phone call to someone. Answer back was hard reset, where you disconnect the battery and touch the two wire ends together for 30 seconds. Problem solved. Until your video, it was the only one I ever saw do this. D7 tool might be innocent.
Super late reply after 1 month but I’m telling you could replicate this 100% without fail every time. It’s absolutely the D7.
I don’t have the car or device anymore, but if I did I would take a closer look at what it’s doing to the network and also I’ve seen enough fuel injector waveforms now to feel like that waveform I show in the video is wrong. Just at the time all injectors looked the same so I assumed it was okay. To be clear it was fine for over 5k miles after this video it would just be interesting to see what the device was actually doing to the car. I ended up selling it once the rust finally condemned the vehicle so we’ll never know. Kinda bummed about it
A scan tool can't diagnose the car for you. You need to take the information, if any, and use it to do your diagnosis. I don't know why you would assume the scan tool is the issue. The car already had a problem with it before you started. Its far more likely that you're going to figure out what the problem is with a DVOM, not a scanner.
I see 2 things that stand out immediately. When the car gives intermittent problems and runs good after you disconnect the battery, it just screams open/closed loop problem. Confirming that, one way or the other, can automatically eliminate a bunch of problems, and really narrow your choices down.
Having a problem with you plug the scanner in is another gift. Check the OBD2 port. Are all 16 pins there and in good shape? Did you check the pins for proper voltage or resistance? This is an absolute must. You may not even be plugging into the factory connector. Some dealer installed options, like LoJack, tap into your OPD2 port, and an aftermarket extension replaces the stock port.
Whatever you do, don't put a PCM in. 80%-90% of the time, PCM's get replaced due to a misdiagnosis. While it is possible that yours could be bad, its not likely. Only replace it as a last resort.
I want to follow up here and let you know 100% the issue you’re seeing is because of the D7. I am absolutely certain.
You’ll be happy to know I did not put a PCM in the car. I used a scope to analyze the MAF and found that it was not performing properly in a snap throttle test. That’s ultimately what the lean issue was. I narrowed it down from a few other tests before deciding the MAF was the culprit. The MAF was the only part I put in this car. I’m not a parts changer and I’m doing these repairs for my own knowledge and enjoyment, and therefore take a very large amount of time to analyze the problems I have. The scope is my go to over a scan tool in just about every case except for gathering live data or doing bidirectional tests.
The purchase was spurred to use bidirectional controls to make chasing the problem easier. The D7 simply does not work. It never connects and causes the no start. It’s consistent and not intermittent. It happens every time I use the D7. I opted in the end for a more expensive read only scan tool the OBD Link MX+. It had a better PID rate than the BlueDriver. I specifically needed the faster refresh rate to test lean and rich conditions with my O2 sensors while driving. I almost used the 2 channel scope I have to observe both O2 sensors but it’s impractical while driving and playing back data.
If you’re interested in the before and after waveforms of the bad MAF vs the good MAF let me know and I can link the photos. Thanks for your reply!
Try another scan tool. More likely your car. I have used the D7 on 50 plus cars no issues.
It's the xTool.
xTools don't work with older American vehicles like my 1999 Ford F-250 7.3L and my 2001 Dodge Dakota 4.7L. Apparently works great on most Chinese built vehicles.
That's why lots of techs hang on to the old school otc and snap on scanners lots of the new Chinese tools don't play nice with the older vehicles each tool has its place
Because this is new Im gonna start by saying I'm a locksmith I use xtool,autel,xhorse to make keys. I have had no starts and had to disconnect battreys on nissan on multiple cars. The autel and xtool caused same no start and I would read codes with a cheap basic scanner. First time it happened I was scared push to start stoped working. I don't think its a reason to return it. I believe its something with bi directional scanners and some nissans. I had it happen on a 2012 altima but tried on a different 2012 altima and no issue. True story
But I will say something cheap like mk808 from autel is fine and better than xtool. But I use both I just dont start cars untill Im at live data function. I just keep key on while reading vin and such
Thanks for sharing your experience. Maybe this no-start thing only happens with Nissans, but your input is duly noted.
@bygonebob if I could send a picture I would show you about 6 high end scanners 2 or xtool I got the d9 pro I think is what that's called autel im608 both of them have j2534 connectors and support new candidates protocol
Could you ever get a connection to the car? I can’t even get to any of the bidirectional controls. It just says establishing connection forever. Same exact thing on a 2005 Dodge Caravan except it doesn’t cause a no start
@NathanSmith-ut4ur one nissan it was a issue on odb port and on the other the odb wasn't putting out power. As far as older chrysler the tool warns under 07 might have to do manuel model input. First thing first is make sure odb port has power.
I used one of these d7 to make keys for a 2011 Camry
and it worked fine
Key burning is kind of tricky but I followed instructions that some guy had up on TH-cam and they were good
The d7 also read the codes on the Camry no problem
Would this solve the same issue but on a 2013 dodge avenger? The hard reset? I used this scan tool to do a camshaft sensor relearn and I drove it 30 miles and now it’s doing this once I turned it off.
I’ve read somewhere that disconnecting the scantool while it’s still reading/scanning would have adverse effects on the tool itself and/or the car’s PCM. Maybe if you’ve waited a little longer for the scan to finish (does that on older cars), you might not have that problem. But if you deemed the wait was unusually too long then I don’t blame you. I was thinking about getting this D7 but now I’m taking it off my shopping list. Oh well, back to Autel. Anyways, thanks for the heads up. I hope nothing serious happened to your PCM. God bless.
I also thought this would be a possible cause but I’m willing to rule it out because of the visible RPM drops while the tool is connecting. Something is definitely wrong with the software I believe. For a $400 scan tool I am unwilling to wait 10 minutes to read a code regardless. In addition it didn’t work with 3 cars. I’m bummed for sure. I really hoped this would work.
I did send the video to Xtool and I’m waiting for a refund after returning the tool. I left a review on Amazon. I’m not sure if everyone else is just having a perfect experience or the bad reviews are being deleted.
@@NS-YT-PV I totally agree that something is wrong with the software. Seems to be a half-baked one like others have been saying that this company is flying the plane while still building it. If I have to reconsider them, I would just have to sit this one out and wait until the software has fully matured. Again, God bless.
It's the xTool.
mind each vehicle seems to have its own software module. The D8 seems to be faster and with topology display.
On an older car would it be wise to use generic obd2 instead of manufacture specific? I try not to connect or disconnect with the car running.
Xtool says that you have to turn on the tool first then plug it in to your connector
I have a car just like this 1998 Altima GXE.. You don't really need such a fancy scan tool for this kinda car.. A bare basic one will work.. I find Autel ones work best with these older Nissan for what ever reason... Doesn't have to be anything fancy either 50$ or 1000$ will do around the same on these since there ain't that many electronics like on much newer cars.. If it's like mine I don't think it will support bidirectional controls. I used to have a 1200$ autel and it could do birectional control either car probably just too old for that.. I guess needs to be at least 2003 and up or something...
well my d7 surly takes a long time reading my 18 Traverse. But other than that it works fine on everything I have tried it on, including my 2022 CanAm Spyder. I trust yours was fully updated.
My ThinkDiag+ did crash the Spyder.
xTool may not work on any vehicle older than 10 years.
Maybe you should not have cut off the app in the middle of the diagnosis…
What was I supposed to do? Sit there indefinitely while it never connects? Not gonna bring TH-cam along for a 15 minute wait. The tool never connects.
Probably a bad engine ground not the scan tool
Definitely not the scan tool.
This is wrong. How is the car running perfectly fine before plugging the scan tool in? Then I plug the scan tool in and magically an engine ground goes bad? Not likely. And then this pattern repeats itself 4-5 times consistently, not intermittently. Every time the scan tool is plugged in it does it. If I still had the car I would do a voltage drop test at the same time with the battery to prove it’s not a ground issue. My prediction is it’s a CAN issue. It’s destroying the network or decaying it enough to cause misfires.
Why are you attempting to connect to the car when it is running.
You are wrong. Your 2000 Nissan should auto connect to the scan tool.
Did you try to do auto connect.
The D7 scan tool is not the problem. There is a problem with the car. My guess for your running concerns is there is a major fuel supply issue and the scan tool is removing the learned values from the computer. The car will barely run because of the problem you are looking for.
according to the video- the NOSTART ONLY occurs when he's using the D7. I don't doubt there is a problem with the car with respect to poor / unstable idle- but isn't that the idea of connecting a scan tool- to find out what / where? He demonstrated this in the video- his car was running, then he connected the D7 and ran the diagnostics, the D7 crashed, he shut off the car, he disconnected the D7 and then his car wouldn't start. Again- yes, there is a fault with the car- but the D7 failed him as well.
I own a D7 myself and I LOVE it- but I also own an iCarsoft 906 which I also use to 'cross-check' what the D7 finds. The last thing you want to do is buy and replace parts you don't need to. I'm not relying on just ONE tool to tell me to go out and buy a $300 part when I don't have to. Good luck everybody.
Some cars will not read unless the key is running. I’ve worked on a solid amount of cars. I can tell you for certain a 2000 Altima needs to be running and a 2004 Sienna. Not all cars can connect with key on engine off
@lynskyrd a scan tool cannot tell you to buy a part. It can help you locate the area of concern. It is up to the person opperating the scan tool to properly diagnose the problem.
@NS-YT-PV there was something wrong with the wiring of those cars that prevented connection with key on. All OBD2 cars are the same.
xTool will NOT auto connect with older American cars. Try it.
I seen this a bad engine ground would cause this
Fuel pump
u should have got the d7s
Looking at one myself D7S
This D7 x tool are not accurate scan tool . I wont buy those .Innova 5610 Bi Directipnal scan tool is more realible and easy to use . Now TopDonbArtDiag Pro Bi -Directional is the best scan tool So as the Launch. 919 E BT Bidirectional control is more accurate plus its safe to use
.I wont buy an X tool.
How about Ancel X7 ?
@@playstation2bigs I have not use Ancel X7 .But I used Innova 5610 Bidirectional scan tool So as Top Don ArtDiag Pro these two are one of the most accurate scan tool .Some other ones cannot detect any problems .But Top Don to me is perfect accurate scan tool