Hey Rhett, great video mate. Exactly what I am about to attempt in my NP 3.2. Couple questions: seems you had no issues with the fuel tank? I have read that it can cause issues, but seemi gly not. Second question, non related to the diff replacement, but not a far stretch! Did you replace the companion shafts and/or circlips? I am attempting to resolve this issue at the same time as I replace the diff. A third question as you seem to know what you're talking about.... the front bushes on the rear diff. How come you didn't replace them at the same time?? Thanks again for the videos, I have found them a great resource
Hi Daniel. Right now i cant conceive of how the fuel tank could be an issue. Umm. If i watch my video again maybe i would think of something. Bolt access possibly? I have a fairly decent toolkit so i can work around issues a bit easier? I decided not to address the circlip issue due to time pressure. I have been told the kits are expensive, and i have found them on ebay. I have been told it can be done cheaper by simply machining the original groove in the shaft wider so the thicker circlip fits. A missed opportunity. Supposedly the circlip issue happens most when towing because over big bumps the suspension can swing heavily into full droop. I dont tow. I wasnt able to source replacement front bushes within my timeframe, and they can be done easily anytime after. I dont see any reason not to do them, even if they have a reputation for not being 'a problem'.
did you just swap the rear diff? I mean how does it goes on the 4h, the front diff still 3.9 which means the front wheels always 10% faster than the rear.
Hi. I didnt measure fuel economy, but there is no doubt that the torque converter locking up at highway speeds will bring a fuel economy improvement, especially since locking up reduced revs despite the lower ratio. The 4.3 ratio with 33" tyres is perfect gearing for the vehicle all things considered in my view. It crawled really nicely in first gear low range and engine braking was good, and was good on the hwy. If your intention was just to use the vehicle on weekends for hardcore daytrips, maybe a lower ratio would be preferred by some people for extra engine braking? The lower gearing and rear lsd combined with the traction control on my vehicle made it joyously capable, you dont even notice the TC locking the rear diff, it performs almost just like a locked diff without any increase in turning circle or windup, and the front TC stops front wheel spin really quickly.
The rear diff is okay, the front i wiggled back in the way i took it out, it was a fair bit of fiddling. Next time i might disconnect the passenger side upper balljoint.
People say it is like having a locker in the back, and they are correct. I call mine the Crawljero, although i have custom tuned my suspension as well and have 33" tyres. I dont have to use excess throttle to keep moving when it starts flexing like you have to do with just traction control. There is also no button pressing, the rear lsd and tc are always ready and dont create steering issues. It cost me $900AUS for the diffs and was very very worth it. My torque converter locks up better than a std NP pajero. People with modified Nissan Patrols were feeling attracted to it. Its just ridiculously capable now, point and shoot.
@@anthonynorris9173 i have an alloy bullbar, winch cradle, winch and underbonnet air compressor. I have raised heavy duty front coils. I have the middle and rear seats out and dont load it heavy so i have std rear coils with spacers. I have a set of 285 and a set of 305 heavy duty 33" tyres. Heavy duty shocks. Have removed the front and rear swaybars. Body roll is minimal but the rear coils could probably do with being 10% stiffer. I fitted a 10mm subframe drop to reduce tyre scrub. So it gets full flex, the rear actually has a fair amount of travel.
how do you remove the two axle shaft housings from the sides? do they slide out? i have one side seal has gone - could this be changed under the car?
Hey Rhett, great video mate. Exactly what I am about to attempt in my NP 3.2. Couple questions: seems you had no issues with the fuel tank? I have read that it can cause issues, but seemi gly not.
Second question, non related to the diff replacement, but not a far stretch! Did you replace the companion shafts and/or circlips? I am attempting to resolve this issue at the same time as I replace the diff.
A third question as you seem to know what you're talking about.... the front bushes on the rear diff. How come you didn't replace them at the same time??
Thanks again for the videos, I have found them a great resource
Hi Daniel.
Right now i cant conceive of how the fuel tank could be an issue. Umm. If i watch my video again maybe i would think of something. Bolt access possibly? I have a fairly decent toolkit so i can work around issues a bit easier?
I decided not to address the circlip issue due to time pressure. I have been told the kits are expensive, and i have found them on ebay. I have been told it can be done cheaper by simply machining the original groove in the shaft wider so the thicker circlip fits. A missed opportunity. Supposedly the circlip issue happens most when towing because over big bumps the suspension can swing heavily into full droop. I dont tow.
I wasnt able to source replacement front bushes within my timeframe, and they can be done easily anytime after. I dont see any reason not to do them, even if they have a reputation for not being 'a problem'.
did you just swap the rear diff?
I mean how does it goes on the 4h,
the front diff still 3.9 which means the front wheels always 10% faster than the rear.
I swapped front and rear diffs.
Hi? Thank you for the information. Was there an improvement in the fuel economy? 2. Is there a reason you didn’t go with the 4.9 found in the 2.8?
Hi. I didnt measure fuel economy, but there is no doubt that the torque converter locking up at highway speeds will bring a fuel economy improvement, especially since locking up reduced revs despite the lower ratio.
The 4.3 ratio with 33" tyres is perfect gearing for the vehicle all things considered in my view. It crawled really nicely in first gear low range and engine braking was good, and was good on the hwy.
If your intention was just to use the vehicle on weekends for hardcore daytrips, maybe a lower ratio would be preferred by some people for extra engine braking?
The lower gearing and rear lsd combined with the traction control on my vehicle made it joyously capable, you dont even notice the TC locking the rear diff, it performs almost just like a locked diff without any increase in turning circle or windup, and the front TC stops front wheel spin really quickly.
Everyone i come across that has done this mod says the same things as me, and considers it a really worthwhile mod.
How did the reinstall go mate? Easy to do? My pajero has just decided the diff oil belongs on the outside so I'll be doing this job shortly
The rear diff is okay, the front i wiggled back in the way i took it out, it was a fair bit of fiddling. Next time i might disconnect the passenger side upper balljoint.
How horsepower Pajero diff can bear?
Because I’ll swap a 2jz soon as possible
3.8 2006
Hi. They are strong diffs but i dont know the answer to your question. I hope you find your answer.
Hi mate so I can put a LSD rear in my NP with traction control. How does it perform, drive off road now.
People say it is like having a locker in the back, and they are correct. I call mine the Crawljero, although i have custom tuned my suspension as well and have 33" tyres. I dont have to use excess throttle to keep moving when it starts flexing like you have to do with just traction control. There is also no button pressing, the rear lsd and tc are always ready and dont create steering issues. It cost me $900AUS for the diffs and was very very worth it. My torque converter locks up better than a std NP pajero. People with modified Nissan Patrols were feeling attracted to it. Its just ridiculously capable now, point and shoot.
@@rhetth-s8082 no worries glad to hear. Have a diff on the way for mine look forward to putting it in, what other suspension mods have you done
@@rhetth-s8082 sorry just opened up full message
@@rhetth-s8082 last question I noticed you said diffs did you do the same on the front ? I mean are the NM Pajero front LSD too
@@anthonynorris9173 i have an alloy bullbar, winch cradle, winch and underbonnet air compressor. I have raised heavy duty front coils.
I have the middle and rear seats out and dont load it heavy so i have std rear coils with spacers.
I have a set of 285 and a set of 305 heavy duty 33" tyres. Heavy duty shocks.
Have removed the front and rear swaybars. Body roll is minimal but the rear coils could probably do with being 10% stiffer.
I fitted a 10mm subframe drop to reduce tyre scrub.
So it gets full flex, the rear actually has a fair amount of travel.