I am sure you have it fixed by now, but I had the opposite problem. Initially, I had it surging all the time. That was a carb problem. The little flap had come off the choke plate and jambed things up. I had been bouncing it pretty bad driving over palmettos pulling fallen oak trees out after the hurricane. Once that problem had been sorted, it would misfire when you accelerated the engine above 900 RPM. Took me a little bit to figure out what was causing that. The fly weights for the spark advance in the distributor were hung up and thus no advance. Lubed them and problem went away. I have been running it 3 or 4 hours a day now for weeks using a box blade and no problems at all.
I always check the oil bath air cleaner. Water gets in there and raises the fluid level making it harder to get air through as well as making a soupy mess. I don't know if it would cause surging but it has helped when the tractor is just not generally running smoothly.
I came across this video when I was trying to solve a similar problem with my Furgeson F-40 tractor. It would go uphill fine for a while, then it would quickly lose RPM, then surge, then lose, then surge until I pushed in the clutch and stopped. I had been driving it to my property after purchasing it, and it quit on a hill completely, and the guy who lives where it broke down allowed my to park it in his side yard and work on it. It took a long time and I tried everything. It would die going uphill, but it would go uphill in reverse just fine. So with this knowledge, I took apart the carburetor and bent the float switch slightly so that it would allow more gas into the bowl. I saw that when the tractor was pointed uphill, the gas would flood to the float side of the carb, causing it to float and shut off incoming fuel, even though it needed more. By bending it, it keeps more fuel in the bowl, and doesn't run out of gas on the hills under load. Hope this helps someone.
I'm not an expert myself, but I might try some fuel additive to help clean it out. It might be old gas or dirty gas. Worse case scenario it might need a carburetor kit and a clean. Another thought could be a governor adjustment, which is a more complicated prospect and would require a service manual. I hope that helps! Thanks for sharing, Chad!
needs to look at the governor adjustments, it should not be surging like that without a load, look for broken springs, or missing pins on shafts, or to much play at connecting points, as in to small of a pin or worn holes in the yokes or levers
With the engine running spray carb cleaner around the outside of the carb to see if there an air leak. Also check your fuel flow. Usually surging is lack of fuel. Or bad fuel
I would Drain the fuel tank, put in fresh gas and then put in some sea foam in with the fresh gas. That may help clean out the carb. As said in previous comments you may have an air leak causing a lean condition. Which causes the engine to "hunt" for more fuel. You can take a propane torch opened up so it's letting out the propane (unlit) around the carb and intake manifold with the engine running. If the engine gains RPM that's where your air leak is.
I've got a Big Dipper with the Ford industrial engine nearly the same carb but only one jet adjustment. Engine starts and runs with ether but cannot get it to run on gas. Has great gas flow to the carb.
Man, I just liked and sub’s. I just picked up a 641 myself and have a few issues. Mine definitely has junk in the gas tank and the previous owner put a fuel filter on, like the kind you find on a lawn mower. Mine bogs under a load at higher rpm, pretty positive that filter is clogged. Got to get a new tank and filter. Looking forward to seeing more 641 videos
Thanks for watching! I’m so happy with that Workmaster tractor. I’ve always loved all the old Ford tractors. I’m still trying to get it working at 100%. Watch for future videos about rebuilding that carburetor and testing other troubleshooting options.
I figure your solution is to remove the Carburetor and give it a good and complete cleaning. While you’re at it, I would suggest looking into the state of the gas tank. If the tank has debris; well, that’s the source of your problem. Best to you!
I have a 1964 Industrial 2000 4 cyl. Same carburetor. 12v conversion and front-end loader. I ALWAYS go back to the manual for "basic" settings then adjust from there ACCORDING to the manual
I had a similar problem and I found that the governor control rods were not set correctly. If you have one of the manuals, it explains step by step how to adjust. If I remember it correctly, with the tractor off you want your throttle set to idle and then look at the governor control rod and see if it is touching the governor control arm. If it is, try opening the throttle until it is not. This was my problem. The rod was adjusted too long and it was allowing the governor to move without the proper tension on that linkage. Once tightened until the spring was always under tension it stopped surging. I hope this helps you.
When you take it apart to clean it or rebuild it, there are two tiny passages in the bottom of the carb that are very prone to getting plugged. You need to soak the parts in carb cleaner but also use a very small diameter wire to clean out those passages. Good luck 🤞
I don't know much about that tractor Chad, but if I was working on an old Wheel Horse, the first thing I'd do is order a rebuild kit (or at least gaskets) and pull the carb. A gallon can of Chem-Dip is a great investment...I'd soak the carb in it for 24 hours, then give it a good cleaning. There's likely some tiny ports/passages the internet can tell you about specific to that carb to make sure are clear, then put it back together and start with the standard jet settings and work from there. As long as you're careful and document the teardown, it's not a very challenging task doing the rebuild. Of course I'm late on this video so you probably already have it running like a clock! (BTW, it's possible to tear it down and clean it without the rebuild kit/gaskets, but in my experience there's often some gasket or o-ring that needs replacing once you tear it down.)
I do think a rebuild kit may be in order here. I’ve continued to make adjustments to the carb and I am seeing some improvement, but still not perfect operation. I’m hoping that as I run this old gas though, that may solve the problem. But I do think it’s probably a good idea to get a rebuild kit. Then I’ll just need to learn how to rebuild a carb! :)
I have a ford 800 that has a carb with a jet on the bottom of the bowl. Does the same thing and it pops like its missfiring when I turn up the throttle. Smokes when I messed with the jets.
I'm still making fine adjustments on mine and I can't get it to run perfectly. I may need to have someone who knows more about the carb take a look at it. I believe (I'm not 100% sure) that the screw on the bottom of the bowl is just a drain, and not a jet adjustment. Thanks for watching! Keep me posted if you find the fix.
Honestly the carburetor depends on what type of marvel Schebler carburetor 568 or higher I got a carburetor rebuild video and a starter rebuild all comes in kits make sure you order the full kits not half kits
Thanks for the info! I've been doing minor adjustments at a time now. I have it running better, but it still surges under a load when I have the throttle up.
Gummed up carburetor is my first thought the main jet is gummed up a bit I’m not joking ether we had the same problem but have to keep our 640 ford half choked and then found out you need a thin peace of wire to dig out the nasty mess built up clogged up main jet port make sure all your jet ports are all cleaned out and need a chem bucket carb cleaner 1 gallon bucket like a paint can bucket to keep the carburetor in plus let it sit in there for 2 weeks for not in use tractor work another thing make sure to take good gaged speaker wire something thin metal to clean out main jet port to clean it out tho no joke that can cause your problem that will not run perfectly
But most likely ether a cleaning or a rebuild will solve your problem not hard to unbolt and take apart it’s all simple just don’t loose the little jets inside
It was so frustrating! Our problem is 90% solved. Here's the video where we talk about the things that were fixed. th-cam.com/video/k4TLgBKXbJo/w-d-xo.html
@@PurpleCollarLife maybe the problem isn’t carborator but some adjustment in the governor? I’ve not messed with the governor before I can’t help much with that
I’ve had that exact issue caused by a dirty/partially blocked sediment bowl. If they haven’t been cleaned in a while, they can restrict the fuel flow to the carb. Good luck!
Thanks for the advice. I tried adjusting that carb every which way. It ended up that the tractor needed a complete tuneup and the timing was slightly off.
This solution may work for some people having this issue. Just because it didn't solve my issue does not mean it was worthless. The process is sound. It just was not the answer to my problem.
I am sure you have it fixed by now, but I had the opposite problem. Initially, I had it surging all the time. That was a carb problem. The little flap had come off the choke plate and jambed things up. I had been bouncing it pretty bad driving over palmettos pulling fallen oak trees out after the hurricane. Once that problem had been sorted, it would misfire when you accelerated the engine above 900 RPM. Took me a little bit to figure out what was causing that. The fly weights for the spark advance in the distributor were hung up and thus no advance. Lubed them and problem went away. I have been running it 3 or 4 hours a day now for weeks using a box blade and no problems at all.
I always check the oil bath air cleaner. Water gets in there and raises the fluid level making it harder to get air through as well as making a soupy mess. I don't know if it would cause surging but it has helped when the tractor is just not generally running smoothly.
Great tip! I'm going to empty out the oil bath and start with some fresh oil at the proper level. That's probably overdue anyway.
I came across this video when I was trying to solve a similar problem with my Furgeson F-40 tractor. It would go uphill fine for a while, then it would quickly lose RPM, then surge, then lose, then surge until I pushed in the clutch and stopped. I had been driving it to my property after purchasing it, and it quit on a hill completely, and the guy who lives where it broke down allowed my to park it in his side yard and work on it. It took a long time and I tried everything.
It would die going uphill, but it would go uphill in reverse just fine. So with this knowledge, I took apart the carburetor and bent the float switch slightly so that it would allow more gas into the bowl. I saw that when the tractor was pointed uphill, the gas would flood to the float side of the carb, causing it to float and shut off incoming fuel, even though it needed more. By bending it, it keeps more fuel in the bowl, and doesn't run out of gas on the hills under load.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for sharing your experience and what you tried in troubleshooting the issue. Great job finding a solution!
I'm not an expert myself, but I might try some fuel additive to help clean it out. It might be old gas or dirty gas. Worse case scenario it might need a carburetor kit and a clean. Another thought could be a governor adjustment, which is a more complicated prospect and would require a service manual. I hope that helps! Thanks for sharing, Chad!
Thanks!
needs to look at the governor adjustments, it should not be surging like that without a load, look for broken springs, or missing pins on shafts, or to much play at connecting points, as in to small of a pin or worn holes in the yokes or levers
With the engine running spray carb cleaner around the outside of the carb to see if there an air leak. Also check your fuel flow. Usually surging is lack of fuel. Or bad fuel
Thanks! I'll try both of these tings before I remove and attempt to take apart the carb.
I would Drain the fuel tank, put in fresh gas and then put in some sea foam in with the fresh gas. That may help clean out the carb. As said in previous comments you may have an air leak causing a lean condition. Which causes the engine to "hunt" for more fuel. You can take a propane torch opened up so it's letting out the propane (unlit) around the carb and intake manifold with the engine running. If the engine gains RPM that's where your air leak is.
Thanks! I'm going to try that next.
Brake clean works better for that and safer
I've got a Big Dipper with the Ford industrial engine nearly the same carb but only one jet adjustment. Engine starts and runs with ether but cannot get it to run on gas. Has great gas flow to the carb.
That’s interesting! Hopefully someone else will see your comment and can offer a suggestion.
Man, I just liked and sub’s.
I just picked up a 641 myself and have a few issues. Mine definitely has junk in the gas tank and the previous owner put a fuel filter on, like the kind you find on a lawn mower. Mine bogs under a load at higher rpm, pretty positive that filter is clogged. Got to get a new tank and filter.
Looking forward to seeing more 641 videos
Thanks for watching! I’m so happy with that Workmaster tractor. I’ve always loved all the old Ford tractors. I’m still trying to get it working at 100%. Watch for future videos about rebuilding that carburetor and testing other troubleshooting options.
I figure your solution is to remove the Carburetor and give it a good and complete cleaning. While you’re at it, I would suggest looking into the state of the gas tank. If the tank has debris; well, that’s the source of your problem. Best to you!
Great suggestion! The carb cleaning was certainly needed. Here's what else was done: th-cam.com/video/k4TLgBKXbJo/w-d-xo.html
I have a 1964 Industrial 2000 4 cyl. Same carburetor. 12v conversion and front-end loader. I ALWAYS go back to the manual for "basic" settings then adjust from there ACCORDING to the manual
Great point. Following the manual’s instructions on initial settings is an excellent place to start. Thanks for watching!
I had a similar problem and I found that the governor control rods were not set correctly. If you have one of the manuals, it explains step by step how to adjust. If I remember it correctly, with the tractor off you want your throttle set to idle and then look at the governor control rod and see if it is touching the governor control arm. If it is, try opening the throttle until it is not. This was my problem. The rod was adjusted too long and it was allowing the governor to move without the proper tension on that linkage. Once tightened until the spring was always under tension it stopped surging. I hope this helps you.
Thanks!
When you take it apart to clean it or rebuild it, there are two tiny passages in the bottom of the carb that are very prone to getting plugged. You need to soak the parts in carb cleaner but also use a very small diameter wire to clean out those passages. Good luck 🤞
Thanks! I've never disassembled and rebuilt a carburetor before. But I may need to learn how in order to eliminate this problem.
I don't know much about that tractor Chad, but if I was working on an old Wheel Horse, the first thing I'd do is order a rebuild kit (or at least gaskets) and pull the carb. A gallon can of Chem-Dip is a great investment...I'd soak the carb in it for 24 hours, then give it a good cleaning. There's likely some tiny ports/passages the internet can tell you about specific to that carb to make sure are clear, then put it back together and start with the standard jet settings and work from there. As long as you're careful and document the teardown, it's not a very challenging task doing the rebuild. Of course I'm late on this video so you probably already have it running like a clock!
(BTW, it's possible to tear it down and clean it without the rebuild kit/gaskets, but in my experience there's often some gasket or o-ring that needs replacing once you tear it down.)
I do think a rebuild kit may be in order here. I’ve continued to make adjustments to the carb and I am seeing some improvement, but still not perfect operation. I’m hoping that as I run this old gas though, that may solve the problem. But I do think it’s probably a good idea to get a rebuild kit. Then I’ll just need to learn how to rebuild a carb! :)
You got this, no problem! 👍😎👍
I have a ford 800 that has a carb with a jet on the bottom of the bowl. Does the same thing and it pops like its missfiring when I turn up the throttle. Smokes when I messed with the jets.
I'm still making fine adjustments on mine and I can't get it to run perfectly. I may need to have someone who knows more about the carb take a look at it. I believe (I'm not 100% sure) that the screw on the bottom of the bowl is just a drain, and not a jet adjustment. Thanks for watching! Keep me posted if you find the fix.
Do you still have to not choke it to start it cold after the adjustments ?
80% of the time, it starts with no choke. But when it's really cold, the choke is required.
Theses carbs are pretty simple. You have the screw settings now so take it a part clean it.
Thanks! I'm going to give it a try.
Honestly the carburetor depends on what type of marvel Schebler carburetor 568 or higher I got a carburetor rebuild video and a starter rebuild all comes in kits make sure you order the full kits not half kits
Thanks for the info! I've been doing minor adjustments at a time now. I have it running better, but it still surges under a load when I have the throttle up.
Gummed up carburetor is my first thought the main jet is gummed up a bit I’m not joking ether we had the same problem but have to keep our 640 ford half choked and then found out you need a thin peace of wire to dig out the nasty mess built up clogged up main jet port make sure all your jet ports are all cleaned out and need a chem bucket carb cleaner 1 gallon bucket like a paint can bucket to keep the carburetor in plus let it sit in there for 2 weeks for not in use tractor work another thing make sure to take good gaged speaker wire something thin metal to clean out main jet port to clean it out tho no joke that can cause your problem that will not run perfectly
But most likely ether a cleaning or a rebuild will solve your problem not hard to unbolt and take apart it’s all simple just don’t loose the little jets inside
Clean the screen in the sediment bulb, also the screen in the inlet at the carburetor.
Excellent tips!
Was this issued solved? Have same problem on a farmall 140.
It was so frustrating! Our problem is 90% solved. Here's the video where we talk about the things that were fixed. th-cam.com/video/k4TLgBKXbJo/w-d-xo.html
@@PurpleCollarLife maybe the problem isn’t carborator but some adjustment in the governor? I’ve not messed with the governor before I can’t help much with that
That’s a very nice tractor. Looks like factory paint.
Thanks!
My 53 case was doing the surge it was the 12 volt coil had gone bad
Thanks for sharing!
I’ve had that exact issue caused by a dirty/partially blocked sediment bowl. If they haven’t been cleaned in a while, they can restrict the fuel flow to the carb. Good luck!
Thanks! It sounds like I'm going to need to learn how to remove and clean that carburetor!
I agree, make sure there is good fuel flow into the carburetor
1/4 turn to open running needle did the trick. stopped the surge
That’s great!
Try main jet 1 turn out.
Thanks for the advice. I tried adjusting that carb every which way. It ended up that the tractor needed a complete tuneup and the timing was slightly off.
Your carb needs to be cleaned. The main jet is clogged and it is running out of gasoline when under a load. You could try opening the main jet more.
Thanks for watching
Another no resolution post , almost worthless .
This solution may work for some people having this issue. Just because it didn't solve my issue does not mean it was worthless. The process is sound. It just was not the answer to my problem.