I'm working on a 1977 Sprint 150 Veloce, VLB--I have already replaced the ignition circuitrywith a kit exactly like this one in your video, same exact coil and leadl wires and stator and looks like a similar voltage regulator-- and the motor starts and runs well--I still have no idea how to get the power from the CDI ignition system through the voltage regulator and to the current wiring harness--there is no wiring diagram that I have found that clearly shows which wires are to be attached to which contact points on the voltage regulator and then route to which locations in the junction box--I have tested each circuit on the machine, and all are working with a 12 volt battery: headlights function (high and low beam and the "pilot bulb"), speedometer light works, tail lights work, kill switch works--your video shows the regulator hooked up, but it's at an angle such that I cannot see what you have done--perhaps if you showed the actual wiring arrangement that you used from the stator wires to the junction box I might be able to get mine to work, as well--???
Hello, Great videos! You're an expert so please find if you can help or recomment about the following. I just aquired the 12V regulator for my 1979 local Spanish produced (MotoVespa) 200 DS with Femsa only 55W stator, originally without battery nor blinkers. This model has a 19mm cone that is shorter than PX and, as far as I found, there is not available a Power ignition kit for it. As I enjoy to improve, currently I have fitted a DC circuit independent from original AC circuit. I have a battery for blinkers but there is not battery charging circuit. My aim is to fit the regulator device to charge somewhat the battery, even probaply it will not have the best performance, and if feasible I'll tryto install LED main beam. 1. My first doubt is if Earth from the back of this device connected to the scooter Frame will interfe with AC circuit and could damage the stator? The scooter has 3 independent AC light circuits (yellow for road lights 35/35W, red for brake light 15W and green for position and speedometer,...), 2. My second question is if this regulator or a 5 pin regulator can be connected to the 3 AC circuits to generate full battery charge? or might be only connected to the yellow AC circuit? 3. Is Earth, from Regulator frame, has to be connected to stator earth? Thank you!
Hi. Thanks for the video. If I use the same stator on my VLB which is supposed to be 22 BTDC, do I still align to the 'IT' marking on the stator or do I adjust the stator 4 degree clockwise (your video shows 18 degree BTDC)?
The timing before TDC will still be 22 degrees--hit that same mark and you will get the same results as if it were being delivered by the previous stator placement. Changing the type of delivery system does not change the need for the spark delivery to occur at a specific point. The ignition timing will remain the same for either type of stator, because the mechanical components have not changed, just the nature of the type of supply system that is generating the actual electrical current. As Spock would have said: "Logical."
done the same thing with my wifes vnb5t but still vespa has trouble getting started after a long drive when motor is still warm. So when you upgrade too 12v should the original carburator be used or does it need 20/20 now 20/15 is still used. Same goes for the fuel tap do I still use the original one or do I switch over to a px tap?
Does it smoke after it fires up then? You do not need a 20/20, I would say clean the carb, give it a good once over. Pref. Swap the needle and clean the needle seat to make sure it is not slowly flooding the motor
similar to the PX ignition, 80W but it seems to be tighter packed coils, so yeah, 90W seems about right. Considering that many bikes that this kit is built for run mostly just head/tail light and horn, I do not think you ever feel like you need more output. But good question!
This video was an invaluable resource when upgrading to a cdi system
Thanks. I was looking for information about 12V DC conversions for older Vespa scooters. Now all I need is a video on variable timing with this setup.
I'm working on a 1977 Sprint 150 Veloce, VLB--I have already replaced the ignition circuitrywith a kit exactly like this one in your video, same exact coil and leadl wires and stator and looks like a similar voltage regulator-- and the motor starts and runs well--I still have no idea how to get the power from the CDI ignition system through the voltage regulator and to the current wiring harness--there is no wiring diagram that I have found that clearly shows which wires are to be attached to which contact points on the voltage regulator and then route to which locations in the junction box--I have tested each circuit on the machine, and all are working with a 12 volt battery: headlights function (high and low beam and the "pilot bulb"), speedometer light works, tail lights work, kill switch works--your video shows the regulator hooked up, but it's at an angle such that I cannot see what you have done--perhaps if you showed the actual wiring arrangement that you used from the stator wires to the junction box I might be able to get mine to work, as well--???
Doing this on old 6 volt to looks like now 12 volt. Strange does not come with voltage regulator.
Hi there...wish to know where to get that performance air filter...size. i.meassure the air box.63mm.
does this system need to be homologated when doing vehicle (vespa 6v) registration etc?
Hello,
Great videos! You're an expert so please find if you can help or recomment about the following.
I just aquired the 12V regulator for my 1979 local Spanish produced (MotoVespa) 200 DS with Femsa only 55W stator, originally without battery nor blinkers.
This model has a 19mm cone that is shorter than PX and, as far as I found, there is not available a Power ignition kit for it.
As I enjoy to improve, currently I have fitted a DC circuit independent from original AC circuit. I have a battery for blinkers but there is not battery charging circuit. My aim is to fit the regulator device to charge somewhat the battery, even probaply it will not have the best performance, and if feasible I'll tryto install LED main beam.
1. My first doubt is if Earth from the back of this device connected to the scooter Frame will interfe with AC circuit and could damage the stator?
The scooter has 3 independent AC light circuits (yellow for road lights 35/35W, red for brake light 15W and green for position and speedometer,...),
2. My second question is if this regulator or a 5 pin regulator can be connected to the 3 AC circuits to generate full battery charge? or might be only connected to the yellow AC circuit?
3. Is Earth, from Regulator frame, has to be connected to stator earth?
Thank you!
Does anyone know if this kit existes for a 200 Rally femsatronic (with the original femsa crankshaft)?
About to start to install the 12volt kit. Any tips on changeing the wiring?
Is there a kit for an early small door V9A1?
The links are not supporting.
thats nice but what is the benifit of this ?is mileadge will increse if i will convert my scooter 6 volt to 12 volt?
Hi mate. Good vid. Can u tell me do i have to change the wireing loom?
Can i see the filter carburator?
Hi mate,,
May i know the each pin from cdi is for what?
Ex. Red for the pulser or green for cdi input.
Thanks 🙏🙏
Mine is a vbb 1962
so flying wheel also need to change for 6volt to 12 volt convertion?or old one will work with that?
Howe can i bay this parts
Check the link in the video description
How much price for that ignition?
Hi. Thanks for the video. If I use the same stator on my VLB which is supposed to be 22 BTDC, do I still align to the 'IT' marking on the stator or do I adjust the stator 4 degree clockwise (your video shows 18 degree BTDC)?
The timing before TDC will still be 22 degrees--hit that same mark and you will get the same results as if it were being delivered by the previous stator placement. Changing the type of delivery system does not change the need for the spark delivery to occur at a specific point. The ignition timing will remain the same for either type of stator, because the mechanical components have not changed, just the nature of the type of supply system that is generating the actual electrical current. As Spock would have said: "Logical."
done the same thing with my wifes vnb5t but still vespa has trouble getting started after a long drive when motor is still warm. So when you upgrade too 12v should the original carburator be used or does it need 20/20 now 20/15 is still used. Same goes for the fuel tap do I still use the original one or do I switch over to a px tap?
Does it smoke after it fires up then?
You do not need a 20/20, I would say clean the carb, give it a good once over. Pref. Swap the needle and clean the needle seat to make sure it is not slowly flooding the motor
@@ThatScooterThing thanks for the fast haven't thought of that. Will get it cleaned when I have some spare time.
It’s still 90w power right?
similar to the PX ignition, 80W but it seems to be tighter packed coils, so yeah, 90W seems about right.
Considering that many bikes that this kit is built for run mostly just head/tail light and horn, I do not think you ever feel like you need more output. But good question!
Yeah, headlight, taillight... indicators and brake light? Thinking if it’s enough power, my headlight bulb is 35w