VW A4: Intermittent Low Charging Voltage
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 เม.ย. 2014
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Excellent video Thomas..
Great use of the temp gun to show viewers what you were doing.
Always learning something new from your videos.
Quick find on the bad connection Thomas and good demonstration of voltage drop.
Love the way you film and edit videos, Very clean and professional Will subscribe to your series. Very helpful and a reminder that small electrical faults can cause much larger issues. PROPS!
Thank you, not that many people like my style of recording. Strange, because I show more than most of the popular channels. :(
I checked my car for this same problem sure enough same thing was so hot it burnt my finger. I took apart the whole fuse holder and cleaned up all the metal parts. Alternator wire where it connects to fuse had some brown junk on it somehow couldn't see it till you removed it. It still gets warm but 81f vs burning my finger was 131f right after starting. This vid saved my fuseholder from meltdown lol.
Glad you found it in time! I believe there have been VW's that burnt to the ground because of something like this.
I have same problem with my skoda fabia 1.2 12v red light of battery 2 days... I clean all 5 plank and everything is fine tmx you again !!!
Thank you for sharing & watching!
Thank you very much for this super informative video!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for the video. I have the same issue with a 2010 Vw Golf.
I don't think your 2010 golf has this type of setup... check for voltage drop between the alternator & the battery, like in this video (TDI engine, but the checking method applies to all engines).
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video .
Great video, as are all of yours! I really appreciate you're making these. I've learned a ton from your videos, even though I only very recently came to appreciate what a stud my "2.slow" VW is and how great the VW community is and how much I can do myself!
I've got a Mk4 Jetta Wagen (AVH engine code) and I'm getting a misfire on Cyl 1 (according to my recently procured VCDS setup... holy crap, do other brands have such an amazing tool?), but only when I have accessories running. My voltage drop from battery + to Alternator stud is 0.1 or so with no accessories on, but jumps to 0.3 or sometimes higher with accessories on. The alternator cable, likewise, heats up like crazy with accessories on (I wish I had an IR thermometer like you, I know the old fashioned way... ouch!). Could a bad wire from battery to alternator cause a misfire like this? When I get the misfiring (again, only when accessories are on), I can also hear an arcing/snapping sound coming from around cylinder one, but I never see an arc. I had recently changed the coil pack and spark plug wires as I had an overheat due to exploding coolant from a long overdue coolant flange and was running like crap. My #2 and #3 wires had out of spec resistances. (When I was in doing the wires, I also changed the spark plugs. ) Since I had a good (as far as resistance goes) #1 spark plug wire, I pulled the new OEM #1 wire out and put the older NGK wire back in, but the problem did not change. I pulled the battery and tray out and cleaned up all of my grounds under there, just to be sure they were good (though my voltage drop testing on ground side seemed fine... max was about .1 V when checking various grounds, though I didn't check the ground in the plenum for the ECU (I can't get my wiper blade arms off for the life of me). Sorry if this is too much information!
Voltage drop of on positive should not be more than 0.5Vdc max... 0.3Vdc max for ground (that's almost 1Vdc). Good charging system voltage should be 13.5Vdc (fully loaded accessories) at 2000 to 2500 rpm. It is normal for charging voltage to drop close to 13Vdc if the engine is just at idle.
I don't think that the voltage drops you are measuring are the reason for the misfiring. If you can hear arcing of spark, then you have an insulation issue... be it spark plug wire or the spark plug itself (remove the spark plug and check it for cracks in the ceramic. Apply dielectric grease to the inside of the spark plug boot... it will help insulate the boot more and will make it easier for the boot to be removed at the next spark plug service. Mist the ignition components with a water spray bottle and a mixture of water and household ammonia. Do this at night with the hood up and the engine at idle. The engine should not run rough / misfire when the ignition components get wet... if the engine runs rough, those wet components are no good (have bad insulation). If you see sparks, it will be easier to identify where the problem is.
Thanks @@EXOVCDS! Pulled the plug and the ceramic is cracked. And... there ends my experiment with autolite coppers! Maybe it was just dropped or something, but I'm going through the NGK laser platinums every 20,000 km's, so I don't feel like ponying up the money for "long life" plugs that I don't get long life out of. Going to try and scrounge up some NGK coppers and give them a shot.
And while I'm doing that, probably going to through in a higher gauge charging wire. It was so strange that with the cracked plug, it was only misfiring with high accessory pull. Or maybe that pull produced just enough voltage dip to make the ignition voltage drop just enough to make the spark prefer to go out the side?
Thank you for the update... good job finding the issue!
Electrical issues can be annoying.
Wish I would have found this video after hours of trying to figure out WTF was wrong with my Jetta--it wasn't charging. Crimped that connection down more, soldered it, and, BAM, it now charges perfectly.
It's always the simple things that are the hardest to find! Thank you for watching!
Dude, you are my hero!! Had the same issue and fixed it by watching this video. Didn't have the fancy snap-on VOM but got the job done. What's the normal running voltage for these cars? I have the heater fan on 2, my stereo was powered up but not playing (amp in trunk was on, aftermarket) and i'm getting steady 14v. Headlights on I get ~13.8v. I am running ballasts with HID's.
Should I be looking at a replacement alternator soon? It's a 2003 VW GTI 20th with original alternator.
14 to 14.5V is charging voltage... ideally you don't want charging voltage to drop below 13.8v with all accessories on. Not everyone cranks all the accessories at once, but it's a good quick test of the alternator / voltage regulator. If voltages are low... do a voltage drop test across the charging circuits like this:
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
Such a simple trick saved me 30 $ on a new diode / rectififer kit...
Bad connections are a common issue with those fuse boxes. I've gotten into the habit of always check the connections now, even if the car is not in for electrical issues.
Great video! thanks!
Thank you for watching!
nice video! I have a question - have you ever had a case where the charging voltage is around 14 after cold start and drops to around 13 when warm?
Look for resistance / bad connection in the charging cable (alternator connection, at the starter (if the alternator cable goes to the starter first... before going to the battery) and at the battery etc. When it drops to 13, leave the negative of the meter attached to the battery negative clamp and put the positive of the meter right on the alternator + post. Is it also showing 13? If yes, move the positive to the alternator case... meter should show less than 0.5Vdc. if it shows more, then you have a bad ground connection somewhere. If the alternator shows 14, then you have a bad positive feed / bad connection / resistance.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you need to replace that entire fuse box or just the 150A fuse?
Depending on how badly burnt the fuse holder / box is... you can just replace the fuse and clean all the wire connectors. If the fuse box is original, it can't hurt to replace it if it is slightly burnt / melted due to a bad connection that got hot.
my 2008 Tiguan puttiing out 13.6V when engine running, see your video I might look into it soon. thanks
Also watch this video:
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
It's a TDI engine, but that does not matter. This test applies to all vehicles & engines.
Thanks for this. 2001 Beetle suddenly throwing p0562 CEL after swapping out the fuse box. A bit surprising because I decided to buy the most expensive fuse box on Rock Auto thinking I'd get higher quality than the super cheap one it's replacing. The super cheap one didn't survive my son putting the jumper cables on backwards.
Had the original VW fuse box in there while waiting for the Rock Auto part and had no CEL issue, but the original has the floppy A/C fuse slot issue. This design is something I don't care for.
Do you have a non-OEM fuse box you would recommend or do you only use OEM fuse box? 2001New Beetle.
If you order from a VW / Audi / Euro parts store... they will usually carry an aftermarket brand that is of good quality, as well as have the OEM at a reasonable price.
Oh by the way is a 2008 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 it turns on when I drive it for a while he shuts off when I play around with a few box and when I go to turn it on it turns on why is that
The problem lies in the black cable from the alternator to the fuse box at the end it has a nut stock from factory which in time gets electrical resistance cut behind nut clean up wire and put new crimp on it and your set to go
Good tip.
Or solder the fresh copper wire TO the fuse for a 100% permanent bond. Never have the issue again. You know, fix it right.
my voltage when engine run about 13.7v to 13.8v. is this normal? also got issue with my car rough running & sometime stall when the epc light up. New throttle body has been replaced recently but the issue seem to be still there but it comes intermittently. Which I presume its voltage related and I need to check just like you did in the video.
Voltage is ok, but could be a bit higher. Check for "voltage drop" like in this video... diesel engine, but the checking / principal is the same for gasoline engines.
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
I have a question about if a alternator from a 1999 v w passatwill work in a 2011Volkswagon Tiguan SEl 4 motion navigation system
If it's the same size, shape, rating, has the same pulley size and has the same mounting bolt holes and connectors... I guess.
I would have to see them side by side to determine. You might have to do the same.
I have similar issue with my 2006 gti I clean all the connections in the fuse box and keeps doing the same when is at idle reads 12 v and if I rev the engine it goes up to 14 v and I can be driving around with no issues.. any thoughts?
mk4 or mk5?
Check for voltage drop as this video shows.
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
If that's OK... then it could be a problem with the alternator / voltage regulator in the alternator. If the Alternator is ECM controlled, then alternator control needs to also be verified (mk4's are not ECM controlled).
I have electrical engineer problem the door locks on and off
I have jetta 2002 1.8t EPC light is on and car cuts off when I drive do you think is tensioner chain bad
Not sure. Check for fault codes.
if the wiring checks out , could it be a faulty regulator on the alternator?
Yes... make sure to check for "voltage drop" first. Here's a good example of high voltage drop due to a bad ground connection:
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
It's not the fuse box on these cars that is the problem, it's the crimp connection on the black wire. The problem is VW has a special 7 mm connector nut on the end of their alternator wire where it connects to the fuse box, the regular copper connection are too wide to fit in the little groves in the fuse box. I just ended up making a connection out of 1/4 inch copper pipe. It worked out better than what they had from the factory. They just undersized the fitting on this job.
A clean & solid connection is most important.
Thanks so much !!!
Thank you for watching!
Classic example of friction bond failures compared to welds or solders.
Look for hot spots... that's all I know! LOL
Was this causing parasitic draw?? My 1.8 gti golf has 650 mA of parasitic draw and I have no idea where to look
No... a bad connection (voltage drop) will not (should not) cause a parasitic current draw. Using a test light and a multimeter (set to read amperage) you can track down most draws. Use the test light to see which fuses have power when the vehicle is OFF and then place the multimeter across the fuse slot (fuse removed) to see what the amperage is. Do this until you find your 650ma draw. Once you know which fuse it is, you can then look at a wiring diagram to see what circuits are on that fuse. Disconnect the alternator, as it can draw amperage as well... but is usually more than 650ma when one of the diodes fails.
hi
could you let me know the shop Nam so I can bring my car in please ?
Mario C Hi, sorry... I'm trying to keep my work location separate from TH-cam. Once I have my own warehouse, I will invite the TH-cam public.
Thomas I have a new alternator and when I start the engine first time when a its cold my alternator warning comes up and after letting run the engine couple of minutes and worm up in this whole time its running on battery not charging at all, after I stop the engine and start again I have 14.4 charging like never happened anything, my battery its a little weak anyway but shouldn happen like this, sometimes doesn't happen when it's cold only after I activate heated mirrors and rear window. The same issue I had with old alternator wich tested on another car and works perfectly
Check for a "bad connection" like in this video:
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
You have to check the "positive" & "negative" side of the charging circuit while the engine is running.
Also check the fuse box on top of the battery like in this video... of your car is a mk4 / A4 Golf / Jetta / New Beetle.
@@EXOVCDS It is a Jetta mk4 1.9 tdi, I will check each connection and contact of the wires and especially the fuse box, if I remember well 2 weckends ago I detached the + terminal for some work and after that started to have this problem again with this new alternator too, I will come back with updates, really appreciate your help, thank you 🤝
Ok.
My Ford Freestyle is reading low voltage....new starter, new alternator, new throttle body. I have no idea what to check next 🤦. Any suggestions?
Watch this video and get let me know what the results of the "voltage drop" tests are:
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
Nice work, my 1999 Toyota Avalon when
I crack it on read on multimeter 13.75 without accessory on and keep dropping voltages from 13.75, 13.74, 13.73 down even 12, voltage to battery low, I don't where to look at
Watch the following video and tell me your findings. Do the test when battery voltage is 12V engine running.
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS thanks
I still need your help, I did exactly voltage drop test as you directed me red led on negative battery terminal black on casing on alternator it read 0.05, to the engine block 0.05
positive terminal to B post 0.28
B post to alternator casing 13.8 display dropping voltages,
on the battery terminals negative and positive r 13.8 also keep dropping voltages from.13.8 to 13. 7 13 6 I mean just keep dropping and dropping the voltage as I told earlier on first comment thank you!
I have a 04 Passat that's not getting any fire! And throwing up every code there is! Any suggestions? Thank's
More info would be helpful (to you)... as I can guess better when I know more.
If you have a lot of "short to ground" codes... check your fuel pump relay.
Your videos are amazing.
Question... "alternator workshop" message pops on intermittently when aircon is on. It doesnt ever pop up if ac is off on Golf MK4.
Can be fuse or any other problem?
Check your charging system and check for voltage drops... like in this video with a digital voltmeter / multimeter (diesel engine, but the same tests apply to gasoline engines).
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
Post your results here.
@@EXOVCDS this is helpful. I will test accordingly.
My battery terminals show 13.82V consistently when engine is running.
Alternator workshop and battery sign appears intermittently while driving.
Just confirmed with AC or without AC still alternator workshop sign appears :(
@@abqadeer8168 that's weird. Hmmm
@@EXOVCDS do you know any fuse linked to voltage regulator or anything? A slipping alternator belt?
@@abqadeer8168 could be a slipping belt, but usually you would hear that. You need to monitor your voltage while the warning is on the cluster... buy a tester that you can plug into the cigarette lighter. Like this one.
www.amazon.com/LIHAN-Charger-Display-Voltage-Compatible/dp/B01JA627KU/
I have VW golf 1.4 tsi automatic . Car start but after gear in drive car not running and computer shows error
System voltage low
Kindly help
I don't like having to reply to the same question twice... so you will have to read my reply a second time as well.
If the engine starts / is running, but the car does not move when in drive mode, then there is a transmission problem or a driveshaft / axle problem.
I have a 2008 Volkswagen Jetta I noticed that my car shuts off when I’m driving when I check the fuel box and move it around and then when I go to turn on the car it turns on why is that
I don't know... maybe this:
th-cam.com/video/6q2_SApeXxU/w-d-xo.html
My 99 beetle tdi has the battery light alluminated started a day ago. The other thing is it is doing something that feels like a vacuum issue. when you hit the brakes it starts to run rough. I have an obd and it throws a P0380 and P1403. Any help would be appreciated and thanks for the great videos.
P0380 is glow plug heater fault, P1403 is EGR related... both should not have any bearing on alternator light. Check the fuse on top of the battery (the thick black wire). Check charging voltage with a multimeter. Check across the battery clamps while the engine is running. Then ouch the positive lead of the meter to the black wire on the fuse box and leave the negative meter lead on the battery negative post. Is the reading the same or higher? 13.8 to 14.5 volts is ok charging voltage.
Ok I will get on it. Have to admit i'm a little worried about tangling with the EGR. Does the other issue sound like a vacuum issue to you? When you brake sometimes the motor runs a little rough and then clears up after. That's the only time it does it. Thanks again for the replies and videos.
Sorry about the late reply. The brake "vacuum" system is a separate system from the engine / air flow into the engine. It should NOT affect engine performance as far as I know... except if the vacuum (that feeds to brake booster) is affecting the vacuum that goes to the turbo actuator. This could cause delayed or no movement of the turbo vanes... which results in lack of power. It should not (in my opinion) cause engine running issues at idle, if you just step on the brakes.... but keep in mind, I have not yet "seen everything" when it comes to VW & Audi problems. =)
Hey that's fine I appreciate you getting back with me though. If I figure it out I will let you know what it was.
I would suggest get rid of that German car and get a honda or Toyota.
Second options could be a newer model kia or Hyundai.
Bro what is most coomon in golf 4 parazitic drain ?? I have my car batery drains when i park more 2 hours
There is no specific cause... but I would check if trunk light (if it has one) stays on.
@@EXOVCDS i have removed that connector 2 month ago it dosnt have connection anymore
@adolg4049 how big is the draw (how many ampere)? With cold engine, check if the alternator is warm... or, disconnect the black alternator cable at the fuse box. If you see sparks when disconnecting or reconnecting, then the alternator is bad.
You need to attach an ammeter to the battery and pull one fuse at a time until the ammeter shows 0, then you need to check all the items that are on that fuse.
I change the alternator for my car and it is stilll giving me 13V and idk what I got and Audi A4 2009 I really need someone to help me
Watch the following video... perform the same tests. Engine in video is a TDI, but the same test method applies to gasoline engines.
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
Let me know your results.
Why is temporary when you cleaned fuse and connector ? Is there better solution ? Btw thank you for video !
Depending on the condition of the wiring / connectors... it is a good idea to replace the fuse box. As long as you keep an eye on it, it should be fine. There have been cases of connections / fuse boxes getting so hot, that a fire starts.
@@EXOVCDS oh, okay thanx mate for fast reply !
I have an 03 audi a4 and i got a code P1696 AUDI - CAN Data Bus Steering Column Electronics Incorrect Signal
And its showin another code for low voltage. Whats the first thing to look at
First thing to look at:
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18104/P1696/005782
very nice
Thank you for watching!
Well done,interesting thought process - the temp gun- bang on Thomas- TST says too many techs don't know how to do a voltage drop - not - well you did it in under 30 sec. Thomas does the shop provide the Vantage or is it yours ?
My vantage pro... I have a bunch of other snap on products as well.
I only pulled out the temp gun so that "my viewers" could see what I was twitching my fingers for.
Can you show this for an audi q7 4L pls?
Same process... use a multimeter to check for voltage differences between the alternator and the battery (under the driver seat). What is the actual problem? What year? How many miles? If your battery was recently replaced... was the battery registered to the "battery monitor"?
I have a similar problem with a 2013 jetta tsi 2.5 I replaced the alternator 3 times every time I would switch it on it will stay on for 5 minutes then a battery light pops up and it losses voltage but I don’t know how please help me, Thanks.
Depending on if the vehicle has Hydraulic Power Steering or Electronic Steering... the alternator clutch pulley releases in the opposite direction. Meaning... if you install the wrong alternator, the alternator will not charge (because the clutch pulley will "freewheel" instead of supplying power). I could be wrong, it might be something else... but this is the first thing that I would check (correct one way clutch pulley operation).
It would be nice to get a reply to my answer.
Any luck?
Hi Thomas.
First of all your video is very good.
I had/have the same problem. Because of melted plastic the alternator don't charged the battery. That was one year earlier. Then a friend helped me and cleaned the copper ring. The problem was solved....for the moment.
This year when I turned on the air conditioning, I felt that the car was out of power, when I don't accelerate I had the feeling that I press the break. Without AC started the car behaved normally. After this I stopped the car and I checked that black cable from the fuse box,...that was hot and when I put the wrench to squeeze it, I saw that 110A fuse was broked.
I changed the fuse box with a new one, I cleaned the connections, but that black cable is unchanged hot (I don't know what temperature have the cable termination but when I check with my finger I resist 2sec). Can the problem be elsewhere? With an OBD2 bluetooth tester I measured 14,1V
Until now the new fuse box it's ok, but maybe later will be melted too.
What can be the problem? Can you help me?
Aside from "Charging Voltage"... you need to check charging amperage. A fully charged battery will cause the alternator to maybe charge at 15A when the vehicle is running. When the battery is weak or electrical loads are ON, then the alternator will put out 30A or more. The alternator could be faulty or the battery could be soaking-up / demanding too much from the alternator... or something / electrical load (in the vehicle) is on, making the alternator have to work hard. The cable from the alternator to the battery could also be bad (high resistance). To rule-out a bad cable, you can connect a thick jumper cable to the alternator + post and the other end of the cable to the battery + clamp. Run the engine... if the original alternator cable stays cool now (electricity is now going through the jumper cable that has less resistance), then replace the alternator cable. If you can not test the amount of amperage that the alternator is putting out at idle... have a service shop test your alternator / charging system. Be careful if you are going to connect a jumper cable to the positive posts!!!! If the cable touches "ground" (metal part of the engine / transmission) then you will have a dead short that will arc and that can cause damage to the electrical system.
Thank you for the help. Problem solved. I changed the cable and now everything is ok.
Thank you for the update!
creo que jsto sea lo que pasa a mi audi tt ,,solo que mi audi tt ni se pone eb marcha solo si desconcto bateria y vuelvo a conectar despue de 15minutos es que se pone en marcha pero si le paro no vuelve a andar
Check your connections. If they are clean & tight, the problem is something else.
@@EXOVCDS muchas gracias
Pls is this fault similar to power supply terminal 15 p1600 -35-10 voltage too low- intermittent. Pls how do fix this issue pls
Year, make, model, engine?
1.9 tdi alh vw golf 4
Year 1998
From the service manual:
- P1600 Voltage supply terminal
15 Voltage too low
- No current supply when ignition
is on (terminal 15) Various
running problems including
engine will not start
- Check voltage supply for
terminal 15
You will have to check a wiring diagram to see how terminal 15 (voltage supply for "key on" / "ignition on") circuit is powered. Use a test light to follow / check for power going into & out of the ignition switch and other places according to the relevant wiring diagram.
Is the vehicle starting all the time, not starting, stalling some times? No noticeable issues asside from fault code? The more info I have the better I can help.
I think I may be having this same issue on my GTI. I’m experiencing low voltage but my battery has never died on me. Everything in my car works fine however since I have LED brake lights installed they need full voltage to function properly and so they are flickering. Ram my codes and got a 01314.
Scanning just the ECM might not be helpful. If something electrical is going on, it's best to scan all modules in the vehicle. A generic OBD2 scan tool can't do that.
Some vehicles have a small current / voltage that goes through all light bulb wiring... this is to "check" the integrity of the incandescent bulbs / filament. When a bulb is burnt out, the central eletric module (when the car has one) will turn a bulb out warning on in the dash.
The small current / voltage could be affecting the LED bulbs.
If the vehicle doesn't have bulb-out detection... then it could be that the LED bulbs are not sitting correctly in the bulb sockets.
If the battery is strong enough to start the engine, then there should be enough power to power LED bulbs.
@@EXOVCDS the bulb out warning sign does come on and I’ve done a full scan and the only code I get is for the ecm. Everything in my car is functioning properly aside from my brake lights flickering from time to time. I’ve also replaced the leds.
Replaced the LEDs with new LEDs or regular bulbs? The more info I have, the better I can help / don't have to guess.
@@EXOVCDS I apologize sir, I do appreciate the replies on such an old video as well. I replaced the leds with new ones.
@@ittorasetsuxx8077 did the first set of LEDs work correctly / with no issues? Light circuits that were designed for incandescent bulbs function best with incandescent bulbs.
My BMW's also have bulbs out verification... I installed HID bulbs for headlights and had to add resistors in the circuit to "fool" the system in thinking that incandescent bulbs were still in place. Find the stock incandescent bulbs and look at the wattage / rating.... then, splice resistors into the circuits to fool the system. The resistors will probably also solve the flickering.
A dual filament bulb will need 2 resistors (one for each circuit) for the LED bulb, a single filament bulb one for the LED bulb.
Did it end up being the alternator wire harness that needed to be replaced? I'm having low charging problems and need help lol
Just needed cleaning. Check / compare the voltage at the alternator and at the battery. If it is higher at the alternator, then you have a voltage drop / bad connection. Clean or replace as needed.
Hi, I suddenly had 3 elective peobpemas. 1, my odometer shows no speed, my outside temperature sensor stopped at 11 degrees, my fuel level, even though it goes up and down in turns, then drops to 0. These errors occurred simultaneously. what do you think it could be?
Year, make, model, engine?
Check fuse 7 in the fuse holder at the side of the instrument cluster... if it's an A4 / mk4 VW.
10A fuse.
@@EXOVCDS vw new beetle 1.9 tdi Alh enginde code. 1999 year
Yes / no... thank you?
I was the owner of a beetle, long history, anyway I would suggest to get this problem fix and get rid of that money pit car, a saw this same problem over and over again on those vw cars, even on new models
Everything on a car can be considered a maintenance item... catching things before they cause major issues, is what maintenance is all about. Sure, some vehicles / other manufacturers don't have little fuse boxes like this... but the same problem can occur on regular type of fuse boxes.
thomas i am geting a
17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF
P1503 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent from VCDS,
and when i start the car and remove the + terminal from the battery the engine switches off
Why would you want to disconnect the + terminal on the battery from a running engine? That's not a safe thing to do on modern fuel injected vehicles. It might have been an adequate test in the old days, but not now.
Watch the following video... do the same checks with a volt meter and tell me the results.
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS i read somewhere thatvits a good way to see if the alternator is charging, I replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator but the brushes were fine and they were more than the 5mm length limit. I will need to get a voltmeter to see what the voltage drops are.
When the key is ON, is the battery light in the dash ON? When the engine is running, is the battery light in the dash ON?
@@EXOVCDS when the key is ON the battery light is on, when the engine is running the battery light is OFF
Ok. Do the voltage checks and get back to me.
I have a question do I have to get a 4 gauge cable and change the one black cable??
You only need to change the black cable if it is too damaged. I can't see your cable, so I don't know if you need to replace it. Clean both of the connection points (at the alternator and at the fuse box on the battery). Test / check for heat after... and perform voltage drop test (attach multimeter negative test lead to battery positive clamp and attach positive test lead to the battery post on the alternator). The meter should show less than 0.3Vdc... if the voltage is higher, then there is still a bad connection or the charging cable has internal resistance. The engine has to be running when doing a voltage drop test.
@@EXOVCDS thank you bro I'm going to try that and I have another question do you know why it does warm high temperature? You think it does matter if I'm running my system car stereo because with a self sub with that amplifier or doesn't have anything to do with it ? I can show you the cable you think I can send it to you to your email you think you can give me your email so I can send you bro
@@adrianperez423 Clean the connections first and then check temperature again. If it only gets hot when the stereo is on... then yes, it might be because of that (but I don't think so). You can record a video with your phone and then upload it with the TH-cam app... very simple & quick.
@@EXOVCDS I'm going to do that I think I might need a thicker wire a 4 gauge cable bro
@@EXOVCDS I have another question bro if the alternator isputting more charge then it should be so the alternator is bad right? Or it should be the cable
is 14.1v to 14.01 ok charge rate?
Yes.
Im somewhere between 13.0 and 13.5? Bad connection?
@thomasxovcds hey I change the alternator on a 2014 Audi A7 now I am not getting any power to the alternator can this be the fault?
Maybe.
Watch the following video (different car & engine, but testing is the same).
Do the same checks / tests on your car... tell me / show me the results.
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
When I test it it says 8volts why is that? That’s the wire going to the alternator
Also when I scan it says electrical malfunction and when the battery volt is 12.3
Any way I could contact you?
You already have made contact.... here.
I can't see how you are testing. You might have a bad connection or alternator wire.
If the starter is working good, then the ground cable for the engine should be ok. In which case, focus on the battery cable from the alternator to the junction box and from the junction box to the battery.
What is the voltage at the junction box? Post a video so that I can see how you measure voltage at battery, at junction box and at alternator.
hey thomas its me again i know. vws. Ok so last week my battery light kept coming on and my car was losing cranking power with each crank, untill it would no longer crank. They said battery was bad. I replaced battery with new autozone gold battery. same thing was happening this week but this battery never really gave out untill today. i was driving then the airbag light and abs light came on. Then the radio turnd itself off. Then the epc light came on and the car was stuck at 2000 rpms, with power loss. Parked to the side. Turned it off and scanned. The epc light didnt return only battery light and cel. Code i got was P0030. Is the issue of all this the alternator ? oxygen sensor? ill check fuse box tommorrow. any help is great. Thanks
Ivan Soto If the alternator is not charging... the vehicle will start to shut down as the battery voltage gets too low. Ignore all codes until the charging issue has been sorted. Check charging voltage at the alternator and compare it with the reading you get at the battery. if they are the same & low, most likely alternator. If it's higher at the alternator but low at the battery... bad connection somewhere between alt & battery.
Any vid of your that you may recommend on checking voltage at alternator?. Thanks for speedy response.
Not really... sorry. Depending on the engine / alternator location, getting to the big + stud on the alternator can be a bit tricky. Some have a plastic cap covering the + post nut... so you have to remove that cap first. If it's in a tight space, be careful that you don't accidentally bridge the + post to a metal ground with any tools. Google search "charging system voltage drop testing" for some info on how to check for bad connections. Actually... I do have a video you can watch!
th-cam.com/video/xBBZIx2O7MI/w-d-xo.html
Ok so ima pick up a multimeter. I took battery to autozone they told mebi put too much dielectric grease on battery terminals. Bad contact. Oh and my alternator seems like it was recently replaced because it looks new and shiny.and the ground on the fuse box on top of battery is melted. Could this be it. ? Ill replace it.
_lh3.googleusercontent.com/KhrGvj9qb3sth1BsFlwX1Qf72f-7T2tvHyzoWDUjnwdjLLnerseIGCcvZzPvbeacp0afd5Cm_
Hey thomas, i tested alt 14.5. But at battery its 13.4. However the fuse box on top of my battery seems to be melting. I touched the black cable and its very hot. If that melts can it lower voltage to battery therefore not charge the battery? Thanks in advance
I have done all of this and still my wires are getting very hot at the fuse box! I replaced the battery, the fuse box, the alternator wire and still getting really hot. Could my alternator cause them to heat up? I notice that my intrument panel gets dimmer when I roll up my windows.
What's the charging voltage?
@@EXOVCDS If I remember correctly it was in the high 13s running idle with no accessories and the high 12s with high load at idle. I have noticed that it only seems to get hot after about 15 minutes of running and heats up when the cooling fans are running, the alternator wire and the 2nd wire from the fuse box that goes into the cabin are the hottest. I have check the grounds under the battery box and the one that goes to the transmission, cleaned & wire brushed them. I also have installed a new positive and neg terminals and wires... Truly stumped.
Not knowing how hot is hot... I don't know if it is abnormal. In an electric circuit, heat will usually build where there is resistance / bad connection. If a ground wire were bad, that should not cause heat at the other end of the circuit. Perform "voltage drop" tests across the charging circuit and the main ground circuit of the engine. Like in this video:
th-cam.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS hey, now your onto something. I was checking the ends that bolt to the fuse box and notice that the inside of the cable looks corroded slightly and very brittle. My guess is if I cut the cable back and attached a new end to it, that it would probably cool down. I was asking myself if the heat on that end would indicate that is where the cable would heat up and checking under the dash to find the cable cool as a cucumber, plus your awnser, I would say that I have a problem at the end of the cable connecting to the fuse box. Thanks for your help. I'll update this evening once I am done.
@@HardWhereHero The whole point of the video that you are posting under... is a bad connection and how the heat went away after cleaning the connection.
Awesome video. Am going to check this first as it's seems easier than my first plan.... Have a jetta where the alternator warning light comes on but ONLY when you accelerate hard. First thought was the belt on the alternator must be slipping under load and it seems a little loose. So maybe the tensioner... What do you think?
Year, make, model & engine?
@@EXOVCDS ... a pity Ben didn't answer but I have the same issue on a VW Polo 1.4 TDI (2008)... ignition on/engine off - no battery light, engine on - no battery light, rev engine 2000rpm - battery light stays ON for as long as the revs remain high...
@@slicker55 Attach a voltmeter to the battery and measure the voltage:
- Ignition off
- Ignition on engine off
- Engine running
- engine 2000 rpm
Do the same thing but attach the meter positive lead to the alternator + post.
@@EXOVCDS I followed your advice and determined alternator faulty... replaced ... fixed charging issue ... healthy charge to battery now.... still have another one or maybe two issues... ignition on, engine off no battery light (although it does come on once the engine is running IF I move the steering left or right (intermittent)... others have advised me to trace possible break in blue wire from alternator but this seems pointless as the battery light does come on in the circumstances described so I'm figuring there can't be a break? Your willingness to share your expertise and help others is really appreciated ... I'm hoping you might just know what is causing this last niggle?
Does the alternator have a one way clutch? Is the clutch working correctly? If the pulley / clutch is the wrong one... it will freewheel the alternator. When the engine is shut off, the alternator should continue to spin for a second or two. If it does not, then it's a solid pulley or the clutch / pulley is the wrong one.
I just got a jetta n think thats my problem there
Im also a part time youtuber i was wondering what kind of camera do you use
Voltage drop testing should find the problem. I was focusing on the heat in this video... as well as knowing that these fuse boxes are a common problem area. ivuecamera.com/product/ivue-rincon-1080p/
Thanks for watching!
Oh... there's a promo code you can use to get 15% off of any iVue order: EXOVCDS15
Wow u rock bro
So im using a power probe with all accesories on and the car running
1. At battery im getting 13.8
2. At alternator im getting 14.1 what could you make out of that
0.3 drop which isn't that bad.
Have you checked the ground & positive side to see where the drop is?
01598 vw fault code intermittente 000 salve ho questo codice golf 5 batteria nuova non riesco a venirne a vcapo sai dirmi qualcosa??
Check alternator / charging system?
El cable q pusiste hacia donde va conectado
a la 1:30 en el video, el texto dice "el cable negro es la alimentación del alternador".
Oye amigo gracias y disculpa para calibrar el cuerpo de aceleración no se puede hacer manualmente
@@israellugo9784 la computadora del motor lo hará por sí misma. todo lo que tienes que hacer es conducir el coche durante unos días.
Mi auto es un golf gti 1.8 02 ya lo eh conducido lo q pasa q le limpie el cuerpo de aceleración pero lo desmonte y lo moví la mariposa y lo puse pero ahora tiene mucha falla y hace explosiones entonces usarlo lo reprogramar.. Gracias
@@israellugo9784 estoy usando "traductor de google" para comunicarme con usted. necesitas comunicarte con alguien que sepa hablar tu idioma... para poder ayudarte. hay muchos canales de automoción españoles.
I was going to say why not just change the box? Cleaning it is a short term fix, then the temporary fix text popped up LOL.
Customers are funny... they want it fixed, but they need it NOW!!! There are many things that we should "keep in stock" but don't... and that's when the delay kicks in and I sometimes have 3 cars with hoods open not going anywhere. The video at least also shows that it's not always an alternator that is faulty.
Inventory is tough man. Sometimes, you get like 10 fuse boxes in a month, and then you wont see another for like 8 months lol. Just the way it is sometimes. But basics like pads, tires, etc. That is must have for sure. That is one of the benefits of specializing.
That's why i hate VW I remember having issues with that stupid fuse box in the past, in summer always get fried because too much heat on the wires.
They fail due to old age or because there is an underlying issue... replacing a fuse box without fixing the main issue, will result in a fuse box that will not last long. Always check & clean the connections. Check voltage drop across the wires, especially across the alternator cable. Replace the cable if voltage drop is too much.
@@EXOVCDS fair enough, this is a good tutorial unfortunately back 2012 there wasn't much of that information online. I always have to run to the dealer and they don't take the time to do all that
Damn Germans and their plastics that melt and warp. That tray should be made of metal. smh
More likelihood of DIY'ers shorting things out.