Golf MK5 1K1 Engine Mounts Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- This video was preformed on a 2008 Volkswagen Golf 1K1 1.6L BGU engine.
Repair Manual: shrsl.com/4fjft
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Parts/Tools:
Engine mount Lemforder 3103401 : amzn.to/3N4hOa0
Engine mount Lemforder 3314301 : amzn.to/49XhjKS
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I am not a certified or professional mechanic. This video is for entertainment purposes only. Zaki Garage assumes no liability for any actions performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
The best video i saw for engine mounting. No talk no music just peaceful focusing garage feeling.,
Just the thing I needed to see. Thanks for the vid. Especially with torque specs!
Using your very well explained video, I successfully replaced the engine mount and gearbox mount today. Everything is working perfectly now. You make great videos and do very good work. Keep up the good work.
Glad it went well
thanks for posting this - very useful and as others have surely said, grateful for no rock music. Great photography, too.
Very nice and easy described video. Note that the 2 smaller bolts that hold that little bracket to the engine mount to the inner fender/body should be replaced as well as they are stretch bolts as well. And you should have a minimum of 10mm of space between body rail and engine when doing the adjusting and centering of the engine.👍
great job man, perfect video editing.
Thx man 🫡
Nice video and good job!!
A very very good Job and Video.Bravo👍👍👍
Complimenti hai fatto un bel lavoro e un video molto chiaro.
Nice job, all done perfect.
Great to show the bolt part numbers thanks
Thx 🙏, they weren't the easiest to find, hopefully saves someone the time to look for the bolt part#.
always need new bolts but if u dont have them old ones will fit just perfectly 😀
Excellent
What number are the two screws you forgot to buy on the left side?
Hi.
I see that you used harder engine moutns with N letter:
G62 - N
G61 - M
G60 - L
N the hardest, L the softest.
How does it work after change? I need to change engine mounts in my Leon 1p 1.6 BSE, and I think if I should put with letter L like oryginal (Lemforder 33141 01), with letter M ( oryginally use in TDI engines), or like you with letter N (Lemforder 33143 01). What do you recommend? Thank you.
Thanks for the info, first time learning of the rating for hardness and that the BSE came on the Leon (SEAT cars are very rare in my area).
Well, all I can say is the car felt smoother after replacing the mounts.
Keep in mind I was replacing the original factory mounts from 2007 which really wasn't causing any driving issues or vibrations.
I don't have much experience to recommend either letter, I just like to use known good OE brands.
Very good video. Thanks a lot!
Thanks
are these M10 or M12 bolts on both sides?
Great video! I am thinking about doing this to my gti v. Is there a lot more vibration with the stiffer mounts?
Thanks ✌. I've never tried stiffer mounts or bushings before. Guess it's something you'll have to try and see if you are ok with the increase in vibration.
You are changing the bolts too. Is it important to change them or can I use them again?
It is specified in the vw repair instructions to replace them since they are stretch bolts. Personally, I wouldn't re-use the old bolts especially on important components.
Hello man,i comented a few months ago and i have a new question😁😁.
So i seen a lot of guys that put silicone on the old mounts and they say are better then new ones...i am missing something?
Why are they saying that..what is the logic behind it?
I mean they say the silicone is better than the rubber because it absorbs better the shocks from the engine.
Thx for the amazing video man and i really hope you will answer!
Welcome back . I have considered a putting polyurethane into mounts in the past but never silicon. So I don't have experience with the silicon in mounts, but I guess it's a cheap way to extend the life of the mounts when money is tight. Personally, I wouldn't use silicon especially on old mounts. Engine mounts would sag over time (can see 3:41). These few mm change in the engine position would cause all kinds of vibrations and ware on drivetrain. So not a good Idea to put silicon on old mounts and keep using them. But silicon on new mounts? 🤷♂ could extend the life of the mount, could increase engine vibrations.
@@ZakiGarage damn u really answered,thanks man,u the best.
I was just curios about this.
No worries ✌🏻
You are the mannnnn
Thx man
Why do you use a different engine mount on the right side than the original? What is the difference? It looks different.
Lemforder is an OE manufacturer, no need to get original for x4 the price. FCP Euro has a great video explaining parts "How Much Of Your Car Is Actually Made By The Manufacturer?"
@@ZakiGarage I do not mean the manufacturer. I mean the rubber part inside the engine mount. It looks completely different. One is more round and the another one is more like a square. I am not sure, but there are difference between the VAG engines and maybe this is the reason why the manufacturer make different types and shapes of the rubber bearing including the hydro element inside the bearing.
Hello man,i,love your videos.
A quick question.
Why renew the bolts?
If i use the old ones is there a problem?
Thx
Thx 🙏. Good question, in short cause VW states to replace the bolts in its repair instructions. Why they do that? I'm guesses VW bolts stretch when tightened so reusing stretched bolts could lead to bolts breaking. The first 10 years of this car's life was repaired at shops, now that I do the work myself, I can see that the shops never bothered with replacing bolts, so a lot of old reused bots are messed up and had one subframe bolt snap on me, turned a 1-day job to a month long one.
@@ZakiGarage ok thank you so much
But if the bolt are ok is there any reason to replace them?
If i see the bolts in good shape i suppose i can reuse them,at least once.
Thx for your response.
@@gabyi10 The bolts are designed to stretch when torqued and are weaker once a certain stretch is reached. You would not be able to see that just by looking at the bolts. You can look up "torque-to-yield bolts". But to answer the question, I wouldn't reuse the old bolts unless I'm stuck somewhere and can't get new ones.
Do I need to alignment the mount on gearboxe side or not need to? Thanks
I haven't seen any mention of alignment of the mounts in the repair manuals, I could be wrong. But the closer to the position of the original mount the better I guess
Will i need to bleed the diesel filter houesing if i remove the hoses to it?
i'm not familiar with diesel systems but i dont think it needs bleeding
How many bolts are there, for mount kit including dogbone
4 for engine mount and 6 for trans mount. Didn't do dogbone so not sure how many
@@ZakiGarage You said in the video you forgot to get 2 bolts for the mount on undernearth the battery?
I'm trying to do this job myself and just writing it out, what were the codes for the two bolts you didn't replace? So far I have these bolts I need
N10552402 x 4
N90596906 x 2
N91029602 x 2
Thanks
@@S3NJ0 Unfortunately, since I didn't buy them from the dealer I didn't get the part numbers too.
Hi,
Where are you based, can you replace the mounts on my golf Mk 5 please?
Sorry, I don't work on others cars. can barely find time to fix my broken cars
Is there any chance that the transmission mount on my 1p Leon is the same? It's an 1.9tdi bls. Did not found any vid on yt about that, nor with VW golf5
Never seen that engine but most likely same style.
@@ZakiGarage thanks for the quick answer
Good idea to replace the lower dogbone mount too while doing this? Don't think it' as simple on the Mk5 though as it was on the Mk4 as the bush is pressed into the subframe
You are correct, its a good idea to replace it and its not easy to replace. I did order the mount but still missing the bushing. And the subframe has to come down for the bushing which also require new subframe bolts. Will take me a while to gather all the necessary parts for the job.
@@ZakiGarage buy a powerflex to the dogbone!
@@aliasgaramirali323 Doesn't sound like a bad idea 👍, I'll keep it in mind
Will I need to bleed the coolant? Also what do you mean with 90* degree? Please explain🙏🏽
No need to bleed the coolant just make sure its on max level. 90 degrees is a quarter turn on the bolt, 180 degrees is half a turn.
@@ZakiGarage mine is a 1.9tdi almost the same steps. Though my diesel filter I’ll need to remove three hose on it
@@ZakiGarage is it bad if I don’t follow the prosesdure to tighten it correct?
@@ZakiGarage but do I just need to set the correct nm on the rench, and when it stops it’s done? I don’t need to do anything more?
@@ZakiGarage or what do you mean 90 degrees? Like after the tick?
Is that the left transmission mount?
Yes, the mount on the left is the transmission mount under the battery
Do I have to use stretch bolts?
It's on only factory bolts used by vw
@@ZakiGarage so I can't use bolts from a fastener supplier?
@mkfourgli9785 personally I wouldn't do that unless can't find oe bolts
Did you support the engine,gearbox before starting
yes, have to support the engine/gearbox 2:41 9:00
@@ZakiGarage Eventually got mine done 2 weeks ago What a difference
Engine has 130000 miles on original supports
No nasty movement from the front end now Big Thanks
That's great 👍🏻, 130k is a lot 🤣, I started recently to schedule replacing the mounts at around 50k on all my cars. Bad mounts can lead other components to fail.
@@ZakiGarage I would have done it earlier but I had the expense of f and r ARBs clutch and porous head (pain in the arse) plugs and injectors £££££
Thankfully im good at swinging a spanner🙂🙂 On top of this i lost the use of my local garage space. Isnt life good😂
Sounds like you got a high maintenance one 😆, good luck with it
Здравствуйте, какие симптомы были, что вы решили поменять опоры двигателя? Какой пробег?
Had to remove mount to replace control arm in this video th-cam.com/video/ndVeuMWwxqc/w-d-xo.html
Plus its factory mounts from 2007, car had 130k km on origin mounts.
Car didn't have any bad vibrations, but engine was smoother after replacing mounts.
@@ZakiGarage вибрации на кузов? У меня они тоже бывают но когда температура воздуха за бортом - 15,мой пробег 191000км,2012год.
Подушки двигателя не менял.
@@ДенисКлюев-з3д I would change the engine mounts every 70k km. I usually see engine mount start going bad at 70k.
@@ZakiGarage в подрамнике не меняли?
Where can I buy all the screws cheaply? at VW they cost a fortune
Dealer was the only place I found selling them
why renew bolts?
Following the instructions in the repair manual.
Why VW wants you to replace the bolts?
They use torque to yield bolts, you can look it up if you want to know more.
C'est dommage de pas entendre le bruit moteur AVANT/APRES le changement des silent bloc.😊
There was not any noise change 😅
@@ZakiGarage Many people said that it causes many vibrations inside the car. Then, after changing engine mounts, we have less noise and less vibration, right ?
@@azzaro316 yes, bad engine mounts will cause vibrations
🙏🖤❤
Lemforder out of stock for 9 months, Germany, uk etc
Hope they don't discontinue the parts for this car, been hard getting them lately.
I forgot to give it the 90 degrees 😳
Did the same mistake the first time I did it years ago 😅
how much nm you have used?