Spent alot of money on the same issue. Changed the fuel pump and ignition switch. No change went out there wiggled that relay started right up. I'm thrilled and disgusted at the same time lol. Thank you so much
Anthony Lyons Your welcome. 👍🏼 I'm glad the video helped you out. I feel your frustration, it sucks to throw parts and money at a car troubleshooting something like this. I wonder how many people junked their Pontiacs because of this relay issue.
There are different specs for battery posts. Battery makers are supposed to ensure they are using the proper posts that come on an OEM’s battery, or include a proper brass adapter.
just to share , ive had this same issue this week on my 2013 chevy traverse and i fixed it finally after hours of investigating by using dielectric tune up grease on the ECM circuits. there are 3 main connectors on the ECM and so far so good. Also replaced the Ignition Relay just in case. cost me about 20 dollars for both fixes. this seems to be a problem with alot of GM vehicles.
I have a 2014 Traverse and this has happened twice so far. Reduced engine power with Stability and Traction errors and code is P1682. It has been to the dealer 3 times now in a week and they don't know what the problem is!!! They want to replace the fuse block for a mere $580!!! but they said they don't know if that will fix the problem
Well done. Those GM fuse boxes are infamous for cracked copper wires at the 90 degree bends. But I'd never seen an issue like yours. I'm chasing an intermittent No Crank on the exact same vehicle & am beginning to suspect the fuse box.
Appreciate it. Haven’t had any more issues with our G6 since the repair in this video. Not sure what a new fuse would cost but at this point there should be plenty of used ones available as long as you get those four numbers on the front to match. Good luck.
@@LoFiMofo Believe it or not there really aren't many online for sale. I looked for the 3.6L and was helping someone look for a 2.4L 2006 block and they just arent plentiful or any at all. I agree with you, I thought at first the different part numbers were for minor variations or fixes throughout the years but they really did go and make several different fuse boxes. So wasteful.
@@fuiwfnbnufjehnfojui4251 Well, at least it is a repairable item. My daughter has been driving that G6 from the video, over 200K miles on it now, and the problem has not reoccurred. 👍🏼
@@LoFiMofo I used a hydraulic press to press out the bolts. I could not find the problem inside the fuse box or find a matching fuse box (3021) online. It appears to be out of production. I'm pretty sure I'm losing the ground to the start relay (31) so I just ended up wrapping a wire around the relay's ground pin & connecting it to battery ground. The no crank has not reoccurred but its intermittent so only time will tell.
The problem is the circuitry on the bottom of that fuse box when it gets hot out being under the hood there's a hairline crack in that circuitry and then it causes the automobile to stall and then it won't start until it cools down enough to where that airline crack will go back together then it starts it runs fine and then it keeps doing that over and over that's what it is it's the circuitry on the bottom of your fuse panel you got to take that fuse paddle out and solder it or get a new fuse panel
Although some do have a crack in the wiring In my case it wasn’t a crack in the board or the wiring, it was the socket where the relay seats had spread too far apart, as explained in the video.
Tech here. I wanted to share my concerns about several issues regarding this subject in general. Clearly it's an engineering flaw. I don't want to say it was an intentional flaw, but I think through long learned patterns Ive seen, there is some short sighted understanding in the design field, and I wanted to share exactly what that is. I'm currently having the exact same issue with my G6 but it's the radiator cooling fan relay socket pins. The coolant fans have three modes (and three relays), and in the same manner of this video demonstration here, they will intermittently cut in and out using physical force, when the ECM is trying to energize the relays. Of course in my case, the engine temp rises and the car starts to overheat, the engine knocks and performance lags as a result. You don't want the engine heating above 200 degrees. Online information says that the car should technically run better, but I'm understanding from the view that we want to ATOMIZE, or MIST the gas into the engine, and not vaporize the gas prior to the intended ignition timing. These weakened pins are the result, or combination of two different things taking place. The first is that anytime there is an electric motor, the instant that relay clicks on, there is a mass surge on that circuit, which is going to stress the wire, fuse, any contacts, pins, and relays. In AC circuits, in design, we place a loading capacitor as close as we can to the motor to SMOOTH out this issue. In home dishwashers that cycle the motor off and on a dozen times per wash, the capacitor will PHYSICALLY move on the board during the initial surges, eventually BREAKING it's connections on the circuit board. Capacitors possibly could have been included on car fuse boxes to help this issue. Another factor that needs to be addressed is how electric motors can start to draw more than there rated amperage as they age. (stressing those circuits even MORE) You can actually find info online about this as well. They don't make this fuse rack in a way so that the top of the pin slots could easily be accessed with a micro screwdriver to bend the pins back, and that's a pain as well. You might wonder why the fuse doesn't pop if the amperage is being exceeded, and the issue here is that it's a momentary surge which those fuses are specifically chosen to IGNORE and from what limited info I can find about the ratings (at least in my coolant fans case) it almost looks like the fuse is way to high for the circuit, possibly because they just wanted a FIRE fuse, not a component stress or aging fuse. So in my case, I will be swapping out the coolant fan with a new one, in addition to either bending the pins back or replacing the fuse box, if I can get a used one locally. I wanted to thank the OP for sharing all this work, to the degree that the box CAN be broken down, to be accessed and serviced, which obviously is a lot better than the dealer cost, and I will be using his knowledge to service mine as well. Hopefully my info helps several people, and just maybe, maybe, might make some changes in the manufacturing data base.
Thanks for the reply. I agree, these fuses aren’t really designed for current inrush like in normal ac circuits for motors or compressors where we use time delay fuses to compensate for the 125% inrush, so these automobile fuses are more than likely oversized. Hope you have good luck fixing your issue. My G6 is still going strong, haven’t had another issue with this fuse box since i made this video.
@@LoFiMofo It's crazy I was gonna take it into the dealer today I started it no check engine light I checked all the relays everything is tight Onstar said there is no issues So I didn't want to take it to the dealer I'm gonna drive it every day see what happens thanks bro
Im having the same problem with my friends pontiac. Told me his car wont crank so i tried replacing the starter and changing that negative terminal but no luck. I scanned it and found this code. I checked the fuses. They didnt really seem loose to me. Decided to check here looks now imma have to pull apart that fuse box tomorrow
I have an issue with my 08 G6 3.5 Only it won’t run when it’s hot outside, above 80F, AC running and driving short distance; it won’t crank back up until +1 hour when it cools off. I’m really at a loss of the problem. Not turning off or riding without AC is not ideal.
I had a similar problem many years ago with a Chevy lumina van i had. I’d drive about 30 minutes from work towards home and if i stopped at the bank or a store it wouldn’t start for about 20-30 minutes, just like you are describing. Had it looked at by a reliable shop my neighbor ran and they found that the fuel pump was “weak” , starting to go bad. Replaced that and never had an issue with it after that. Not saying that’s your issue but sure sounds similar.
@@LoFiMofo i didn’t mention it initially, but I’ve changed the fuel pump, starter, checked relays. thanks for your reply. I’ll figure this out. At least I learned how to baby it and not be without a car. Not sure what I’d do if it would just stop randomly while driving.
wow. it looks like you really know you're doing. I have a 2008 G6 convertible and my door locks don't work when i press the switches(driver's nor passenger's sides). They do work when i put the car in drive and park. Funny thing, on two separate occasions last year the switches worked for about 5 mins each time. lol I've pulled the plug for the BCM located on the passenger's side of the center console and sprayed contact cleaner on the connections... to no avail. What do you think could be the problem? Thanks.
I’ve never had issues with the locks on my G6. Could possibly be a bad BCM? The locks themselves work so it’s not likely both drivers and passenger side buttons are bad and intermittent. You checked the connection and cleaned it. If the locks work all the time when you drive it (auto lock) then i wouldn’t think it’s a loose fuse connection. Do they always work with the remote? If so it may be possible that the module (BCM) is faulty. If you could find one on the cheap it may be worth a shot to swap that out. I had a bad 4x4 module on a trailblazer years back that would allow 4x4 off and on, i swapped it with another one i got at a pull a part and the 4x4 worked all the time after that. Good luck
@@LoFiMofo thanks for the reply. Yes, the locks work all the time on auto lock, but unfortunately I don't have a remote. It didn't come with the remote from the previous owner. So what I did was buy an aftermarket remote in hopes of locking and unlocking the car as well as remote starting the car. I took the remote to a locksmith and he said if I'm having trouble with the locks, then programming the remote may not necessarily solve the problem, so I held off. Maybe I'll try it anyway, you never know. I think it could be a bad BCM as well, but wouldn't it cost an arm and a leg to program it if I were to replace it?
@@gettinmine6604 I’m not sure if the BCM would have to be programmed or not, that’s a question for someone more experienced with that. The module on my trailblazer that i replaced was not programmable but i know many are. You’ll just have to do some more digging online and see what you find out BCMs. Good luck
@@gettinmine6604 I'm an ase certified mechanic. Not all modules have to be programmed. Lots of them are plug and play. If not I believe in CA. Where I'm located it's like $150-$180, for most vehicles. Price, depends on, shop, price of software for programming, module being programmed (pcm, tcm, abs, etc..)and brand of vehicle, also whether you're doing it or paying a shop too do it. Different manufacturers charge different prices for their specific software.
@@toddcole5663 Thanks for your reply. ok, so I'm thinking I should try to get the aftermarket remote programmed first, and if that doesn't work I'll bring it to a shop to have them take a look at the modules to see if they need reprogramming, replacing, etc. What do you think? I'm hoping the remote works, obviously, because that'll save me money(I think they charge $80 to program the remote). Lastly, what's your opinion on taking the car to a local shop, or should I take it to the dealer?
Cleaning up grounds does nothing. On gm and Mopar the wire looses contact with ring terminals. Those vintage gm 4 cylinder have a ground under oil filter. Causes tcm issues. To test it grab the wire and pull in it. If it breaks it's bad
I have a 2009 Pontiac g6 2.4L I changed the starter alternator and battery cables my car starts drove 20 miles came back and has a crank no start changed out the fuses when my car was running the the crank fuse was hot any ideas
@@LoFiMofo I wiggled my relay switch the way you said and my car started up and the fuse got got I also took off the fuse box the way you did in your video and with my test light some of my fuses didn't light up
@@AaronRowland-y5w ok. So if it wasn’t starting before and now it is after you wiggled the relay then possibly that’s the only issue. Remember, like i said in the video if you are going to get a replacement fuse box it MUST match the 4 numbers that are on the fuse box you are replacing. You can take it apart like i did and bend the prongs that the relay connects to but it’s not something you should do if you don’t feel comfortable. However, you may have a hard time finding the exact fuse box you need unless you order from GM, but that will be expensive. Not sure why some of your fuses wouldn’t lite up but if you start it after wiggling the fuse and all your accessories work then i would say you found the issue, which is the relay socket.
@@LoFiMofo Batt ABS (30A) fuse Batt sense (5A) fuse ECM(10A) Fuse TCM (10A) fuse I double checked and they are all out on the circuit board I definitely need a new box I was driving around on a bad negative battery cable by then it was to late I changed out my starter alternator and cables but I will get me a new circuit thanks for the feedback I appreciate It much
At a place called pull a part, it's a junk yard. But remember you have to get the same number fuse box that is in your car like i mentioned in the video. You could try eBay too. Good luck.
@@CarlineSales-pz6mz Sorry for the delayed reply. Like i mentioned in the video check all of your other connections, grounds included. Was it a brand new fuse panel?
Its not a new one, whats the odds the one i bought has the same exact problem. So now i was able to start it by giving 12v to that fuse 2, but it still runs like shit, all signs point to fuse panel
@@CarlineSales-pz6mz It is possible that it is a bad fuse box. Did you try wiggling the relay as somebody tries to start it like i did in the video? If it does the same thing you can take the box apart and squeeze the terminals together and that should fix the issue if that indeed is the problem.
@LoFiMofo no i didnt wiggle it, i attached a wire to it directly from the brown wire that goes to the ECM, bypassing the fuse box and everything in between, and that does switch rhe relay on to start the car. At least i can start the thing now, ill let u know what it ends up being, ill go buy another fuse box and maybe the ecm also at a junk yard hopefully tomorrow
@@CarlineSales-pz6mz ok, remember those numbers on the front of the fuse box that you get must match the numbers on the original fuse box like i mentioned in the video.
I have like a hundred of those relays and I cannot find a single one, And I know if I go and buy a new one and install it in my truck I know I will find all of them 5 minutes later.
HELPPP! My GF jump started this same car backwards +to- ..says battery poles became red hot, I'm sure the Alternator is fine but l can't locate the FUSE or any burnt wires ! :( ps..its a 100% new battery
Could have burned up the starter, or the computer. That’s a tough one but any number of things could have been damaged reversing the polarity while jump starting. Might want to find a reputable garage and have it looked at. Sorry.
Continuity test through a relay is not a good test man…. Its not a loaded circuit. Electrical components can have good continuity and resistance and fail under load. If you wanted to bench test it, why didnt you power and ground the coil and add a power to load side and see if the other side of the load produces power when you complete the circuit through the coil? Now, sure it could be intermittent, so perhaps monitor the relay with volt meter or scope to see if it drops out when driving?
I did just that when i replaced the coil (relay) with a brand new coil (relay). The problem persisted so i knew the problem was something other than the relay, such as the relay socket and that was indeed the problem.
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Spent alot of money on the same issue. Changed the fuel pump and ignition switch. No change went out there wiggled that relay started right up. I'm thrilled and disgusted at the same time lol. Thank you so much
Anthony Lyons Your welcome. 👍🏼 I'm glad the video helped you out. I feel your frustration, it sucks to throw parts and money at a car troubleshooting something like this. I wonder how many people junked their Pontiacs because of this relay issue.
Same thing went thru all the changes in the end wiggled the wire an blam ...!
Please help me where are you now, can you repair my car ?
SHES STRAAAAAAMGE AND I LIKE IT!!!! i hear ya jammin brother
There are different specs for battery posts. Battery makers are supposed to ensure they are using the proper posts that come on an OEM’s battery, or include a proper brass adapter.
just to share , ive had this same issue this week on my 2013 chevy traverse and i fixed it finally after hours of investigating by using dielectric tune up grease on the ECM circuits. there are 3 main connectors on the ECM and so far so good. Also replaced the Ignition Relay just in case. cost me about 20 dollars for both fixes. this seems to be a problem with alot of GM vehicles.
I have a 2014 Traverse and this has happened twice so far. Reduced engine power with Stability and Traction errors and code is P1682. It has been to the dealer 3 times now in a week and they don't know what the problem is!!! They want to replace the fuse block for a mere $580!!! but they said they don't know if that will fix the problem
@@stickchickels oof
@Hendew B Hello having same problem with my 2014 traverse, did your problem get resolved? Thanks
Well done. Those GM fuse boxes are infamous for cracked copper wires at the 90 degree bends. But I'd never seen an issue like yours. I'm chasing an intermittent No Crank on the exact same vehicle & am beginning to suspect the fuse box.
Appreciate it. Haven’t had any more issues with our G6 since the repair in this video. Not sure what a new fuse would cost but at this point there should be plenty of used ones available as long as you get those four numbers on the front to match. Good luck.
@@LoFiMofo Believe it or not there really aren't many online for sale. I looked for the 3.6L and was helping someone look for a 2.4L 2006 block and they just arent plentiful or any at all.
I agree with you, I thought at first the different part numbers were for minor variations or fixes throughout the years but they really did go and make several different fuse boxes. So wasteful.
@@fuiwfnbnufjehnfojui4251 Well, at least it is a repairable item. My daughter has been driving that G6 from the video, over 200K miles on it now, and the problem has not reoccurred. 👍🏼
@@LoFiMofo I used a hydraulic press to press out the bolts. I could not find the problem inside the fuse box or find a matching fuse box (3021) online. It appears to be out of production. I'm pretty sure I'm losing the ground to the start relay (31) so I just ended up wrapping a wire around the relay's ground pin & connecting it to battery ground. The no crank has not reoccurred but its intermittent so only time will tell.
thanks for the video. i have a similar issue with the starter relay. car has 165k on the clock. i now have some info for fixing this problem.
Thank. Good luck with your issue.
The problem is the circuitry on the bottom of that fuse box when it gets hot out being under the hood there's a hairline crack in that circuitry and then it causes the automobile to stall and then it won't start until it cools down enough to where that airline crack will go back together then it starts it runs fine and then it keeps doing that over and over that's what it is it's the circuitry on the bottom of your fuse panel you got to take that fuse paddle out and solder it or get a new fuse panel
Although some do have a crack in the wiring In my case it wasn’t a crack in the board or the wiring, it was the socket where the relay seats had spread too far apart, as explained in the video.
Tech here. I wanted to share my concerns about several issues regarding this subject in general. Clearly it's an engineering flaw. I don't want to say it was an intentional flaw, but I think through long learned patterns Ive seen, there is some short sighted understanding in the design field, and I wanted to share exactly what that is.
I'm currently having the exact same issue with my G6 but it's the radiator cooling fan relay socket pins. The coolant fans have three modes (and three relays), and in the same manner of this video demonstration here, they will intermittently cut in and out using physical force, when the ECM is trying to energize the relays. Of course in my case, the engine temp rises and the car starts to overheat, the engine knocks and performance lags as a result. You don't want the engine heating above 200 degrees. Online information says that the car should technically run better, but I'm understanding from the view that we want to ATOMIZE, or MIST the gas into the engine, and not vaporize the gas prior to the intended ignition timing.
These weakened pins are the result, or combination of two different things taking place. The first is that anytime there is an electric motor, the instant that relay clicks on, there is a mass surge on that circuit, which is going to stress the wire, fuse, any contacts, pins, and relays.
In AC circuits, in design, we place a loading capacitor as close as we can to the motor to SMOOTH out this issue. In home dishwashers that cycle the motor off and on a dozen times per wash, the capacitor will PHYSICALLY move on the board during the initial surges, eventually BREAKING it's connections on the circuit board. Capacitors possibly could have been included on car fuse boxes to help this issue.
Another factor that needs to be addressed is how electric motors can start to draw more than there rated amperage as they age. (stressing those circuits even MORE) You can actually find info online about this as well. They don't make this fuse rack in a way so that the top of the pin slots could easily be accessed with a micro screwdriver to bend the pins back, and that's a pain as well. You might wonder why the fuse doesn't pop if the amperage is being exceeded, and the issue here is that it's a momentary surge which those fuses are specifically chosen to IGNORE and from what limited info I can find about the ratings (at least in my coolant fans case) it almost looks like the fuse is way to high for the circuit, possibly because they just wanted a FIRE fuse, not a component stress or aging fuse.
So in my case, I will be swapping out the coolant fan with a new one, in addition to either bending the pins back or replacing the fuse box, if I can get a used one locally.
I wanted to thank the OP for sharing all this work, to the degree that the box CAN be broken down, to be accessed and serviced, which obviously is a lot better than the dealer cost, and I will be using his knowledge to service mine as well. Hopefully my info helps several people, and just maybe, maybe, might make some changes in the manufacturing data base.
Thanks for the reply. I agree, these fuses aren’t really designed for current inrush like in normal ac circuits for motors or compressors where we use time delay fuses to compensate for the 125% inrush, so these automobile fuses are more than likely oversized. Hope you have good luck fixing your issue. My G6 is still going strong, haven’t had another issue with this fuse box since i made this video.
Hey I had the same issue with the battery ground cable connector & had to replace it & the positive side also.
Mine is a 2009chevy Malibu,thx again
Thank you thank you great video I have an intermittent problem with my Silverado crank no start then it works 2018
Thank you. Hope you are able to solve your issue with the Silverado.
@@LoFiMofo It's crazy I was gonna take it into the dealer today I started it no check engine light I checked all the relays everything is tight Onstar said there is no issues So I didn't want to take it to the dealer I'm gonna drive it every day see what happens thanks bro
You is a life savor
Thanks. I’m glad the video helped you out.
Im having the same problem with my friends pontiac. Told me his car wont crank so i tried replacing the starter and changing that negative terminal but no luck. I scanned it and found this code. I checked the fuses. They didnt really seem loose to me. Decided to check here looks now imma have to pull apart that fuse box tomorrow
Good luck, hope the video helps you out.
Thanks for your video,it was the problem with mine
You’re welcome. Glad the video helped you out.
Good video, been having the same issue.
Thanks son have the same issue with his g6
Good luck. Hope the video helps.
I have an issue with my 08 G6 3.5
Only it won’t run when it’s hot outside, above 80F, AC running and driving short distance; it won’t crank back up until +1 hour when it cools off.
I’m really at a loss of the problem. Not turning off or riding without AC is not ideal.
I had a similar problem many years ago with a Chevy lumina van i had. I’d drive about 30 minutes from work towards home and if i stopped at the bank or a store it wouldn’t start for about 20-30 minutes, just like you are describing. Had it looked at by a reliable shop my neighbor ran and they found that the fuel pump was “weak” , starting to go bad. Replaced that and never had an issue with it after that. Not saying that’s your issue but sure sounds similar.
@@LoFiMofo i didn’t mention it initially, but I’ve changed the fuel pump, starter, checked relays.
thanks for your reply.
I’ll figure this out.
At least I learned how to baby it and not be without a car. Not sure what I’d do if it would just stop randomly while driving.
wow. it looks like you really know you're doing. I have a 2008 G6 convertible and my door locks don't work when i press the switches(driver's nor passenger's sides). They do work when i put the car in drive and park. Funny thing, on two separate occasions last year the switches worked for about 5 mins each time. lol
I've pulled the plug for the BCM located on the passenger's side of the center console and sprayed contact cleaner on the connections... to no avail. What do you think could be the problem?
Thanks.
I’ve never had issues with the locks on my G6. Could possibly be a bad BCM? The locks themselves work so it’s not likely both drivers and passenger side buttons are bad and intermittent. You checked the connection and cleaned it. If the locks work all the time when you drive it (auto lock) then i wouldn’t think it’s a loose fuse connection. Do they always work with the remote? If so it may be possible that the module (BCM) is faulty. If you could find one on the cheap it may be worth a shot to swap that out. I had a bad 4x4 module on a trailblazer years back that would allow 4x4 off and on, i swapped it with another one i got at a pull a part and the 4x4 worked all the time after that. Good luck
@@LoFiMofo thanks for the reply.
Yes, the locks work all the time on auto lock, but unfortunately I don't have a remote. It didn't come with the remote from the previous owner. So what I did was buy an aftermarket remote in hopes of locking and unlocking the car as well as remote starting the car. I took the remote to a locksmith and he said if I'm having trouble with the locks, then programming the remote may not necessarily solve the problem, so I held off. Maybe I'll try it anyway, you never know. I think it could be a bad BCM as well, but wouldn't it cost an arm and a leg to program it if I were to replace it?
@@gettinmine6604 I’m not sure if the BCM would have to be programmed or not, that’s a question for someone more experienced with that. The module on my trailblazer that i replaced was not programmable but i know many are. You’ll just have to do some more digging online and see what you find out BCMs. Good luck
@@gettinmine6604 I'm an ase certified mechanic. Not all modules have to be programmed. Lots of them are plug and play. If not I believe in CA. Where I'm located it's like $150-$180, for most vehicles. Price, depends on, shop, price of software for programming, module being programmed (pcm, tcm, abs, etc..)and brand of vehicle, also whether you're doing it or paying a shop too do it. Different manufacturers charge different prices for their specific software.
@@toddcole5663 Thanks for your reply.
ok, so I'm thinking I should try to get the aftermarket remote programmed first, and if that doesn't work I'll bring it to a shop to have them take a look at the modules to see if they need reprogramming, replacing, etc. What do you think? I'm hoping the remote works, obviously, because that'll save me money(I think they charge $80 to program the remote). Lastly, what's your opinion on taking the car to a local shop, or should I take it to the dealer?
Cleaning up grounds does nothing. On gm and Mopar the wire looses contact with ring terminals. Those vintage gm 4 cylinder have a ground under oil filter. Causes tcm issues. To test it grab the wire and pull in it. If it breaks it's bad
Great idea. Go remove all your grounds on your car and see how that goes. I hope you don’t actually work on cars for a living.
I have a 2009 Pontiac g6 2.4L I changed the starter alternator and battery cables my car starts drove 20 miles came back and has a crank no start changed out the fuses when my car was running the the crank fuse was hot any ideas
Did you try wiggling the relay while somebody is turning the key to start the car like i showed in this video?
@@LoFiMofo
I haven't yet I'll try that
@@LoFiMofo
I wiggled my relay switch the way you said and my car started up and the fuse got got I also took off the fuse box the way you did in your video and with my test light some of my fuses didn't light up
@@AaronRowland-y5w ok. So if it wasn’t starting before and now it is after you wiggled the relay then possibly that’s the only issue. Remember, like i said in the video if you are going to get a replacement fuse box it MUST match the 4 numbers that are on the fuse box you are replacing. You can take it apart like i did and bend the prongs that the relay connects to but it’s not something you should do if you don’t feel comfortable. However, you may have a hard time finding the exact fuse box you need unless you order from GM, but that will be expensive. Not sure why some of your fuses wouldn’t lite up but if you start it after wiggling the fuse and all your accessories work then i would say you found the issue, which is the relay socket.
@@LoFiMofo
Batt ABS (30A) fuse
Batt sense (5A) fuse
ECM(10A) Fuse
TCM (10A) fuse
I double checked and they are all out on the circuit board I definitely need a new box I was driving around on a bad negative battery cable by then it was to late I changed out my starter alternator and cables but I will get me a new circuit thanks for the feedback I appreciate It much
Thank you.................
Did you have to put in the radio code to get your radio working after installing the battery?
No, I’ve never had an issue with my radio after disconnecting the battery. It’s always worked fine.
@@LoFiMofo Thanks!
Where did you buy it? The fuse box... Thank you.
My car refuses to start... Same Pontiac
At a place called pull a part, it's a junk yard. But remember you have to get the same number fuse box that is in your car like i mentioned in the video. You could try eBay too. Good luck.
Thank you! Some much,. I would like to get in touch with you... To sort this out. Possibly
What causes the error code.
good vid.
Thanks. That G6 is still running strong, haven’t had any issues with that relay or fuse box since the repair in this video.
You don’t have your neg terminal down all the way on the post that’s why is not tight
Torren pontiac 2007 prendevien al apagarla sequeda ensendida unos 15 O 20 segundos queda prendido el check enyel queda corriente
I replaced the whole fuse panel, it didnt help. Same freaking p1682. Same crank no start. Any other ideas?
@@CarlineSales-pz6mz Sorry for the delayed reply. Like i mentioned in the video check all of your other connections, grounds included. Was it a brand new fuse panel?
Its not a new one, whats the odds the one i bought has the same exact problem. So now i was able to start it by giving 12v to that fuse 2, but it still runs like shit, all signs point to fuse panel
@@CarlineSales-pz6mz It is possible that it is a bad fuse box. Did you try wiggling the relay as somebody tries to start it like i did in the video? If it does the same thing you can take the box apart and squeeze the terminals together and that should fix the issue if that indeed is the problem.
@LoFiMofo no i didnt wiggle it, i attached a wire to it directly from the brown wire that goes to the ECM, bypassing the fuse box and everything in between, and that does switch rhe relay on to start the car. At least i can start the thing now, ill let u know what it ends up being, ill go buy another fuse box and maybe the ecm also at a junk yard hopefully tomorrow
@@CarlineSales-pz6mz ok, remember those numbers on the front of the fuse box that you get must match the numbers on the original fuse box like i mentioned in the video.
It's a good video, but it would be better if the voice was better more information ab6what kind of car it's
The title literally says Pontiac G6. My singing voice also sucks.
Sensacional
Try a 2011 chevy malibu it's all the same connection
I have like a hundred of those relays and I cannot find a single one, And I know if I go and buy a new one and install it in my truck I know I will find all of them 5 minutes later.
@@jamessnapp581 Yeah, i have the same issue in my garage. I’ll find what I’m looking for a week after i needed it.
I really think this is a common problem
HELPPP! My GF jump started this same car backwards +to- ..says battery poles became red hot, I'm sure the Alternator is fine but l can't locate the FUSE or any burnt wires ! :( ps..its a 100% new battery
Could have burned up the starter, or the computer. That’s a tough one but any number of things could have been damaged reversing the polarity while jump starting. Might want to find a reputable garage and have it looked at. Sorry.
Hmmm looking like he may have a smart enemy?
you can just jam diolectric greese in them holes and it makes contact! dont have to take apart people cannot do that stuff! not most!
There’s no way you actually believe that. If you do i sure hope you aren’t any kind of mechanic.
Continuity test through a relay is not a good test man….
Its not a loaded circuit. Electrical components can have good continuity and resistance and fail under load.
If you wanted to bench test it, why didnt you power and ground the coil and add a power to load side and see if the other side of the load produces power when you complete the circuit through the coil?
Now, sure it could be intermittent, so perhaps monitor the relay with volt meter or scope to see if it drops out when driving?
I did just that when i replaced the coil (relay) with a brand new coil (relay). The problem persisted so i knew the problem was something other than the relay, such as the relay socket and that was indeed the problem.
Could have wired a relay under the box instead of getting a whole box…
THESE ARE WORSE CARS EVER MADE ACCORDING TO FORUMS AND MY PERSONAL USE