Torque specs on the carriage and / or caliper pins? I read that the mounting bracket should be 44-56 ft lbs. the caliper to the bracket should be 19-22 ft lbs.
What do you think are the best pads to buy for a 2010 mazda 3? I was thinking to make this my first DIY break job and I was going to buy www.carid.com/2010-mazda-3-brakes/ebc-stage-4-signature-brake-kit-407590311.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|GS Any thoughts? Also, just in case my rotor is ceased, what are the bolts I should buy to use to pry (push) off the rotor?
Ive heard good things about EBC pads. greenstuff or redstuff pads would be appropriate for some spirited street driving. If you wanted to save some money I would go with just some blank standard rotors. However the slotted rotors do look better. I would say that or a package with the greenstuff pads is a good package to get and you would be happy with either.
So is there no real advantage to those slotted rotors (heat dissipation or anything)? I don't really care for the looks. I was told they have something to help reduce rusting + wont warp as easy because they dissipate heat better. If that isn't noticeable than I will just get the cheaper set.
The main reason for them other than looks is to give the gases produced by the brake pads somewhere to go. However most modern pads especially on the street don't really produce any sort of large amounts of gas that would require a way to be vented. If it were a specific track setup that may be more of an issue but for street I would just go with a blank rotor. Technically a blank rotor is better for the street because you are getting more surface area due to the lack of holes or slots in them.
good video! quick tip: you can use a flathead screwdriver and pry the outside pad outward to compress the caliper cylinder. it's easier to remove the caliper after removing the guide pins
You dont need to separate the caliper . Just send the piston back while the caliper is in place then undo the caliper from the hub then remove the old pads and replace . It took me 30 mins to do both sides on my mazda .people make it to complicated . Cheers mark .
Above average instructional video for the Mazda 3. What was the issue that had you have to install the inner pad off camera onto the piston? Well-explained and photographed. Thank you very much.
Great video. Question though. I am used to putting lube on the caliper guides where the pad "ears" make contact to ensure the pad can continue to move freely in the guides. I noticed on a few videos this is not done with Mazda 3. Particular reason why? Any reason why we shouldn't lube the guides and the pad ears? Thanks
Its personal preference really. Some people put grease there to help the pads slide. Others say that the shiny stainless hardware is enough to allow the pads to move freely and that the grease attracts dust and can lead to seized pads over time. In this case where there is no hardware it wouldn't hurt to add some grease in that point.
Given the salt and sand used on the roads in the winter starting in Dec through to April, depending on how long winter lasts, I doubt those surfaces will stay shiny for long. My experience is those nice shiny metal surfaces turn to rust pretty quickly. My gut tells me that putting grease is the way to go. Regardless, people should have the brakes cleaned at least once a year as preventative maintenance. Else, you could face nasty and expensive surprise when your brakes seize...something I learned the hard way back in the day when I only touched my brakes when I thought they were done. We have been doing our own maintenance before and after winter for years...everytime we swap out our winter/summer wheels. Adds about 1.5 hours but worth every penny to keep brakes working well and prevent premature wear of rotors and pads from them sticking. Thanks again.
Absolutely a great idea to service them annually. I do that with our cars as well and as you said it it will dramatically increase brake life and promote even wear. Thanks for the comment.
Torque specs on the carriage and / or caliper pins? I read that the mounting bracket should be 44-56 ft lbs. the caliper to the bracket should be 19-22 ft lbs.
your very professional and smooth. No stuttering or delaying or guessing. Thank you very much.
I appreciate that thanks for the comment
What do you think are the best pads to buy for a 2010 mazda 3? I was thinking to make this my first DIY break job and I was going to buy www.carid.com/2010-mazda-3-brakes/ebc-stage-4-signature-brake-kit-407590311.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|GS
Any thoughts?
Also, just in case my rotor is ceased, what are the bolts I should buy to use to pry (push) off the rotor?
Ive heard good things about EBC pads. greenstuff or redstuff pads would be appropriate for some spirited street driving. If you wanted to save some money I would go with just some blank standard rotors. However the slotted rotors do look better. I would say that or a package with the greenstuff pads is a good package to get and you would be happy with either.
So is there no real advantage to those slotted rotors (heat dissipation or anything)? I don't really care for the looks. I was told they have something to help reduce rusting + wont warp as easy because they dissipate heat better. If that isn't noticeable than I will just get the cheaper set.
The main reason for them other than looks is to give the gases produced by the brake pads somewhere to go. However most modern pads especially on the street don't really produce any sort of large amounts of gas that would require a way to be vented. If it were a specific track setup that may be more of an issue but for street I would just go with a blank rotor. Technically a blank rotor is better for the street because you are getting more surface area due to the lack of holes or slots in them.
Thanks a lot! My brake pads & rotors were successfully replaced last weekend.
good video!
quick tip: you can use a flathead screwdriver and pry the outside pad outward to compress the caliper cylinder. it's easier to remove the caliper after removing the guide pins
🤔Very nice video! well spoken and very well explained! 👍
You dont need to separate the caliper . Just send the piston back while the caliper is in place then undo the caliper from the hub then remove the old pads and replace . It took me 30 mins to do both sides on my mazda .people make it to complicated . Cheers mark .
Where do you the buy the torque and lubnut remover tools from? 😅
Awesome video. Thanks a lot !
Above average instructional video for the Mazda 3.
What was the issue that had you have to install the inner pad off camera onto the piston?
Well-explained and photographed.
Thank you very much.
Just took a while to get the clip on the brake pad compressed enough to go into the piston so I cut it out of the video for times sake.
Was so helpful video, thank you
did i miss the link to the rotor replacement video?
I just bought some new pads. Mine didn't come with the retention clips any comments about reusing the same one?
Its ok to reuse the old ones. Some come with them some don't not a huge deal.
Thanks boss.
Thank you
Is this the same Installation for the 2010 Mazda 3 MPS (Mazdaspeed) ???
It should be very similar the mazadspeed has slightly different front brakes but the concept should be the same
thanks
Could you link me to the StopTech brake pads you purchased? I'm looking to replace mine soon.
www.amazon.ca/StopTech-309-10440-Street-Performance-Front/dp/B003K2GJOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512353866&sr=8-1&keywords=309.10440
Thanks, man!
Great video. Question though. I am used to putting lube on the caliper guides where the pad "ears" make contact to ensure the pad can continue to move freely in the guides. I noticed on a few videos this is not done with Mazda 3. Particular reason why? Any reason why we shouldn't lube the guides and the pad ears? Thanks
Its personal preference really. Some people put grease there to help the pads slide. Others say that the shiny stainless hardware is enough to allow the pads to move freely and that the grease attracts dust and can lead to seized pads over time. In this case where there is no hardware it wouldn't hurt to add some grease in that point.
Given the salt and sand used on the roads in the winter starting in Dec through to April, depending on how long winter lasts, I doubt those surfaces will stay shiny for long. My experience is those nice shiny metal surfaces turn to rust pretty quickly. My gut tells me that putting grease is the way to go. Regardless, people should have the brakes cleaned at least once a year as preventative maintenance. Else, you could face nasty and expensive surprise when your brakes seize...something I learned the hard way back in the day when I only touched my brakes when I thought they were done.
We have been doing our own maintenance before and after winter for years...everytime we swap out our winter/summer wheels. Adds about 1.5 hours but worth every penny to keep brakes working well and prevent premature wear of rotors and pads from them sticking. Thanks again.
Absolutely a great idea to service them annually. I do that with our cars as well and as you said it it will dramatically increase brake life and promote even wear. Thanks for the comment.
What is the purpose of the retaining clip?
Helps stop rattles/squeaking and keeps tension on the pads I believe
No link to removing rotor
Haven't changed any brakes in a while. Is it not necessary to bleed the breaks anymore in case of air bubbles?
I haven't found a need for it doing it this was. However if you were to change out a caliper it would be required.
Good vid. Would you bleed the brake line?
Its not needed if you are simply replacing pads. Only would need to if you changed the caliper.