That's great idea, thanks. I bore at something that is perfectly level while the flat bottom of the receiver is on a level surface, to confirm my reticle is not the slightest bit canted. I bore sight when I install the scope.
When bore sighting make the side edge of the target split the bore in half. White paper on one side dark background on the other. Adjust the windage to the same edge. Then split the white paper and darker background across the barrel. Then adjust the elevation to the same edge. It's a LOT easier to see the edges of the target through the barrel than it is the center of the target.
9:00 the "party trick" is the true way as far as I know. I bore sight when possible at 30 yards then one shot at the same distance, then "0arty trick" then go gout to 100 and "party trick" to the centre of a group.
Great video again. I also shoot multiple groups to sight in my rifles, but I normally shoot them at the same target and then use an app to determine the center of the groups combined.
A lot of people don't seem to take into consideration or even understand how high the scope is above the bore will effect trajectory. Bore sight in the house after mounting your scope. Measure the height of scope over bore and set your reticle that much above the center of bore on a wall in your house and you will be on paper at the range.
Yep, he kinds talked around it without really getting to the point of heights of scope vs bore axis. It matters! Sadly, it is possible because the understanding of the importance and it's implications is beyond the"Scope" of most average hunting shooters. (Sorry for the Pun). Ever try to explain that a bullet does not rise leaving the bore to some shooters, it is the inclination of the boree to the line of site of the scope. Some cannot get it no matter how hard you try to explain physics to them. GRRRR!!!! KnifeMaker
I like Who Tee Who's method . use a laser sight at 10yrds. put the laser on target and adjust the scope to a dot that is the scope height. center of barrel, of course cross hairs. you are on paper before pulling the trigger. I use that method when I mount a scope in my basement.
I don't use turrets. My method is just hold overs. Using the reticle for ranging. If it were longer than 400yrds I would do adjustments but my longest is 319.
Jim, I love that you have so much success with this channel, I stopped watching IS when you left, and even though this channel is not useful to me I do come back from time to time, as I want to see you hit that 1 million subscriber mark. Keep up the good work❤
Good video, I run the same basic process with some the exceptions. Some base/ring combinations on hunting rifles (such as Conetrol) have adjustable windage in the base. I mechanically center the reticle within the optic. Then, corrective windage adjustments can be made thru the bases to achieve zero.
That shot count/multi-target method of determining zero is needlessly complicated. Shoot all the rounds (minimum of 10) at the same point of aim. Find the center of that group, and make your final adjustments based on the center of that group. It seems like more rounds up front, but saves you rounds on the back end.
I got my best grouping ever out of my hunting rifle the other day with factory ammo. Tikka T3X D18 300WinMag Federal Terminal Ascent 200gr At 287yds, I got a 3 shot group at 1.14in group. (.38moa). I normally do 5 shot groups but those were my last 3 bullets.
Hi. Not sure if you had a chance, but try Sabatti tactival EVO or st18 in 308 or 6.5. 0.25 moa guarantee. They meant to recently get in US market I believe. They have been around in Europe for like 300 years already:) these are sooo well shooting rifles with price point of bergara b14. 28" thick barrel with patented MRR, can't go wrong with it. I wish to see your review of it.
I got a bore sight, it's a mini target that sticks into the barrel and has a target on it, you dial the scope to where you want on there and it works pretty well. It's not really ideal though since you're sticking a piece of metal in the barrel, but it hasn't ever hurt my guns that I can tell.
The funniest are the guys who think a projectile rises and falls above bore axis at several points. Nope, the scope (collimator) is being 'tuned' to take advantage of given cartridges trajectory. Drives me crazy.
With most non-duplex reticles you have a ruler in front of your eye (the reticle) that's in the same units as your adjustments. Just use that ruler and adjust. There's no reason to ever think about inches -> clicks when dialing your scope.
Jim, we need to see the New Savage 110 Ultra Lite Elite Vs the Bergara MG Micro lite.. Those are 2 very similar back country rifles but there is nothing out there on them. JIM WE NEED YOU.
Greetings from Ivins! Just found your channel a week ago. Bought two axis 2 rifles at Ace in Santa Clara for $251 each two weeks ago! (.223, and 6.5 creedmoor). My first two centerfire rifles (lot's of .22's). Thanks for the info!
I boresight in my hallway at home. Then I check down the bore one the shooting bench at the range and fire that first shot. Calculator says I should hit 1.17" low if sighted at 100 yards. I adjust to that, fire to confirm, and then move the target to 100 yards.
I find using a scope with a mill dot reticle and remembering your holds is simple /easy. On second thought .... If I had as many rifles with different calibers as Jim. Turret tags would be a great solution.
I have been using inexpensive bore lasers for many years. They work fantastic to get you on paper at 100y on your first shot. Out of dozens of rifles, I have had two rifles that required no additional adjustment for a 100y zero. Obviously most will require additional adjustment.
Quick question for you, when sighting in a rifle using standard ammunition can you use the same scope-caliber combination for subsonic-suppressed ammunition, just compensate for drop?
I always get on paper at 25 yards, adjust it to be a couple inches low and go straight on to paper close to zero at 100, really fast. Sometimes it's painful watching people zero at the range
I personally like to run 4 x5 shot groups with the same point of aim for all (once I’m close to my zero) and then overlay those shots using x,y measurements. This will then give me a solid mean radius. I’ll make my final adjustment on the turret and I’m golden. So long as I only use that ammo of course.
Remington m700 .308 here! Could not agree more, and definitely cosign the laser pointer kits! Thanks for rocking the 5.11 gear too! I'm a retail store employee and love to see the product out there!
Paper is cheap. Ammo expensive. Simply use a huge target paper (or several small next to eachother). Bore sight the middle, shoot and adjust. And regarding bore sighters: Put it in and rotate it. They are rarely perfectly centered so put the crosshairs in the middle of that "circle" of light.
Get yourself a decent shade gazebo . And decent strong pegs , if you can't drive pegs into the ground bring 20 litre drums full water and tie to them , alternative sand bags to secure . Can set up on your own easy enough . Better in shade or out of rain .
Nice presentation.. Also congrats on the purchase of the new range. Wish I lived closer so I. Hold help get it ready .. Hunt safe, hunt ethical, give thanks.
were you using an ffp or an sfp scope for this? also, being kinda new to sighting in scopes properly and to ffp vs sfp, do the turret tags still work on the sfp scopes? i feel like it would work only if you kept the magnification the same on the sfo scopes? thanks in advance!
For those who carry their rifle out in the open with a round up the spout and a sound moderator fitted. Have you ever had accuracy problems with a rain water filled barrel?
At the time I checked this there were 22 replies with some subs. After reading thru them it became obvious to me that no one had ever been in the military on range day. ●Sight in at 25 meters or about 27 yards. You're done. ●Another forgotten method from 60+ years ago is to divide the velocity of your ammo in fps by 100 and set the target at that range in yards. Ex. At 2925 fps, the target would be set at 29 yards. Zero the rifle at that range, and you're good to go for up to 7.5 times the sight-in distance, or 217 yards to be dead on again. At 260 yards you'll still be in the 6" kill zone of a deer and at 290 yards you'll still be in the 8" kill zone of an elk. ●Iron sight shooters take note: the nice thing about the two preceeding methods is that the average person can see the bullet holes in the target with the naked eye.
There is only one gun I own that I can sight it with 3 shots, an fx wildcat pcp pellet gun. Within its range it is the most accurate gun I own. It is also the most expensive. With powder burners there is way mor variables
I have a system I like to use for my “go to” rifle and load. A range at home makes this easier but if you do and want the ultimate sight in here it is. Pick your load and buy or load at least 20 rounds. Shoot that rifle cold bore and only once per session, over the period of a season that has a wide range of temps and humidity and pressure. I like a led sled to take me out of the equation for some of the shots , as we are testing to see what the gun can and will do under any conditions we may shoot at game. But you also have to mix in some “hunting field rests” like a pack or shooting sticks. October works well for me as in that month we can have temps in the 90’s and snow. I shoot at the same printed targets each time, although I may use a few different ones. Then once I have covered all the environmental conditions I can get in that 20 rounds, and if I plan on hunting with or without a bipod I will mix that in, when done I have a good picture of what group my gun can give me through a hunting season. With the all important first shot. Doing this test will shock you! 1/2 MOA guns can be 3 MOA guns in this test. If you get one that can give 1.5 MOA or less you have a fine rifle don’t let go of it! But that’s the only test I have found that tells me if the rifle is first shot ready for hunting season. And it can rearrange your ideas of what rifles you have in order or accuracy! A gun that needs 3 fouling shots then settles in to a half MOA rifle is not a half MOA hunting rifle! And as a reloaded it makes you realize why temp stability in powders is something the industry is embracing. Or explain that rifle that was sighted in a couple months ago, and must have “gotten bumped off zero” by hunting season! It can also show the load that shoots best in one range session may not be the best load for hunting in a season of variable weather conditions. This test may show you some of your rifles are better than you think, and some are worse!
OK We all watched your viedo and now we made the point of having the ladies at the start and now we know why you kept saying chasing your tail!! hahaha!!
Hey Jim, might not see this but quick question. I have a multiple rifles and run leupold scopes and I have tried to clean with alcohol wipes and what not but can never seem to get backing tape to secure a dope chart to my sticks or scope bells even. I have on some more affordable rifles like a ruger American packing tape seems to work ok, but just wanted to get your on take on the “stickiness” of your turret tags, do they seem to stick well (good for back country hunting) or do they lightly stick (good for range days and field testing etc). Thanks for your time
Or you could do similar to what the first guy said and sight in for 2.5 or 2.75 inches high at 100 yards. That's the hunting point blank zero. Out to 300, maybe 325 depending in caliber, you can hold in the center of the heart/lung area and get a double lung hit. No need to mess with the turrets.
I grew up with this method being what everyone used and there is nothing wrong with it if done correctly. The most important of either max point blank or dialing for every distance is that a man has to know his limitations! I think someone important said that once! Ha ha!
Of course you can do that. He’s not saying you can’t set your zero at 200 yards (or 2-3” high at 100). He’s just describing how to be judicious with ammo to get to whatever zero you want.
Depends on the calibre..... I sight high at 50 for my 300 blk (I do a shed load of subsonic supressed hunting on the edge of built up areas).... It's horses for courses... You need to know ballistics and application.... I really like this video
Good copy Jim. WRT to laser bore sighting tool, are they all created equal or are some better/easier to use than others? Also, would the Hawk Hill Rifle Mounted Data Holder be useful for the rifle's dope?
Love my Bergara ;) gotthe Thumbhole in .308 was really impressed about the accuracy everytime i take it out ... getting 4cm high on 100m love it!, but usually not shooting 99% between 30 and 150m .... and 1% don't pull the trigger
So if I understand this correctly, in calculating the points it is only one point whether it is high or low, left or right no matter how far off it may be (say, 4 inches high). Correct? Then, when applying the scope adjustment, it is only adjusted one click (i.e., 1/4 MOA) per the final point average, elevation or windage?
His final zero strategy is stupid. Shoot 10-15 shots at the same point of aim. Find the center of the group and measure from the center to where you were aiming. Adjust accordingly.
I was hoping Jim would reply and clarify his technique. It seems a point should added for every 1/4 moa deviation up or down, not just one point. Being 1.5 inches from the POA is 6 clicks.
If you have a stable set up you can also adjust your turrets to center over your first shot. Saves having to do any maths with MOA/MIL and gets you very close as well.
I bore sight 25 yards. Take one shot then dial to 1 inch high. Go out to 100 take one shot and dial to point. Done. Don’t dial by click. Look through your scope and move the crosshair with your dial to match point of impact. No math needed.
I bore at something that is perfectly level while the flat bottom of the receiver is on a level surface, to confirm my reticle is not the slightest bit canted. I bore sight when I install the scope.
I usually bore sight at 25 yards and i use a empty shell casing with the primer out in the chamber. It seems to work pretty well.
Great idea, never thought of using a case like that
Sounds like an awesome idea, why have I never thought about that or even heard of it before?
That's great idea, thanks. I bore at something that is perfectly level while the flat bottom of the receiver is on a level surface, to confirm my reticle is not the slightest bit canted. I bore sight when I install the scope.
Great suggestion thanks I'll try that next time
I can get on paper without the casing at 25 but the peep sight is a good idea
When bore sighting make the side edge of the target split the bore in half. White paper on one side dark background on the other. Adjust the windage to the same edge. Then split the white paper and darker background across the barrel. Then adjust the elevation to the same edge.
It's a LOT easier to see the edges of the target through the barrel than it is the center of the target.
9:00 the "party trick" is the true way as far as I know.
I bore sight when possible at 30 yards then one shot at the same distance, then "0arty trick" then go gout to 100 and "party trick" to the centre of a group.
Excellent tip on aggregating the groups. Thanks 🙏
Great video again.
I also shoot multiple groups to sight in my rifles, but I normally shoot them at the same target and then use an app to determine the center of the groups combined.
I do it the same way. It is way more accurate than guessing the distance between the impact of your bullet and center.
A lot of people don't seem to take into consideration or even understand how high the scope is above the bore will effect trajectory. Bore sight in the house after mounting your scope. Measure the height of scope over bore and set your reticle that much above the center of bore on a wall in your house and you will be on paper at the range.
Yep, he kinds talked around it without really getting to the point of heights of scope vs bore axis. It matters! Sadly, it is possible because the understanding of the importance and it's implications is beyond the"Scope" of most average hunting shooters. (Sorry for the Pun). Ever try to explain that a bullet does not rise leaving the bore to some shooters, it is the inclination of the boree to the line of site of the scope. Some cannot get it no matter how hard you try to explain physics to them. GRRRR!!!!
KnifeMaker
I like Who Tee Who's method . use a laser sight at 10yrds. put the laser on target and adjust the scope to a dot that is the scope height. center of barrel, of course cross hairs. you are on paper before pulling the trigger. I use that method when I mount a scope in my basement.
Thanks!
Very informative! Thanks Jim!
Good information for new shooters. Thank you for presenting in a clear and concise manner. Glad to see the success your channel is having.
I don't use turrets. My method is just hold overs. Using the reticle for ranging. If it were longer than 400yrds I would do adjustments but my longest is 319.
Nice video!!
Jim, I love that you have so much success with this channel, I stopped watching IS when you left, and even though this channel is not useful to me I do come back from time to time, as I want to see you hit that 1 million subscriber mark. Keep up the good work❤
Good video, with excellent advice for sighting in your rifle. Thanks.
Besides the “movie magic” at the beginning this was a great video.
I bought a laser bore sighted a few years back the thing is awesome!
Good video, I run the same basic process with some the exceptions. Some base/ring combinations on hunting rifles (such as Conetrol) have adjustable windage in the base. I mechanically center the reticle within the optic. Then, corrective windage adjustments can be made thru the bases to achieve zero.
Brilliant and very helpful video perfectly time to sight in my new rifle
I bore sight and shoot once at 33 yards. Then adjust scope clicks X 3. That puts you close at 99 yards with only 1 shot. 👍🤩
That shot count/multi-target method of determining zero is needlessly complicated.
Shoot all the rounds (minimum of 10) at the same point of aim. Find the center of that group, and make your final adjustments based on the center of that group. It seems like more rounds up front, but saves you rounds on the back end.
I got my best grouping ever out of my hunting rifle the other day with factory ammo.
Tikka T3X D18 300WinMag
Federal Terminal Ascent 200gr
At 287yds, I got a 3 shot group at 1.14in group. (.38moa). I normally do 5 shot groups but those were my last 3 bullets.
Love this!
Hi. Not sure if you had a chance, but try Sabatti tactival EVO or st18 in 308 or 6.5. 0.25 moa guarantee. They meant to recently get in US market I believe. They have been around in Europe for like 300 years already:) these are sooo well shooting rifles with price point of bergara b14. 28" thick barrel with patented MRR, can't go wrong with it. I wish to see your review of it.
Love this channel.
Love the turret tags
Great video and good luck this hunting season everyone. Stay safe!
Love the videos. Thanks!
Great video! spot on about sighting in at 50 yards first before moving to 100.
Bring a canopy and fan so you don’t heat stroke. 😃
Please make a stock pad for CZ 557. And maybe do a video on one?
I got a bore sight, it's a mini target that sticks into the barrel and has a target on it, you dial the scope to where you want on there and it works pretty well. It's not really ideal though since you're sticking a piece of metal in the barrel, but it hasn't ever hurt my guns that I can tell.
Leave it in there just once and you’ll see the potential for damage.
A firearm shoots where it impacts , our job is to match the sighting in device to those impacts .. lots of people don’t even know the concept
Wrong, a firearm impacts where it shoots!
The funniest are the guys who think a projectile rises and falls above bore axis at several points. Nope, the scope (collimator) is being 'tuned' to take advantage of given cartridges trajectory. Drives me crazy.
With most non-duplex reticles you have a ruler in front of your eye (the reticle) that's in the same units as your adjustments. Just use that ruler and adjust. There's no reason to ever think about inches -> clicks when dialing your scope.
Jim, we need to see the New Savage 110 Ultra Lite Elite Vs the Bergara MG Micro lite.. Those are 2 very similar back country rifles but there is nothing out there on them. JIM WE NEED YOU.
Greetings from Ivins! Just found your channel a week ago. Bought two axis 2 rifles at Ace in Santa Clara for $251 each two weeks ago! (.223, and 6.5 creedmoor). My first two centerfire rifles (lot's of .22's). Thanks for the info!
I boresight in my hallway at home. Then I check down the bore one the shooting bench at the range and fire that first shot. Calculator says I should hit 1.17" low if sighted at 100 yards. I adjust to that, fire to confirm, and then move the target to 100 yards.
I find using a scope with a mill dot reticle and remembering your holds is simple /easy.
On second thought ....
If I had as many rifles with different calibers as Jim. Turret tags would be a great solution.
I have been using inexpensive bore lasers for many years. They work fantastic to get you on paper at 100y on your first shot. Out of dozens of rifles, I have had two rifles that required no additional adjustment for a 100y zero. Obviously most will require additional adjustment.
Quick question for you, when sighting in a rifle using standard ammunition can you use the same scope-caliber combination for subsonic-suppressed ammunition, just compensate for drop?
I always get on paper at 25 yards, adjust it to be a couple inches low and go straight on to paper close to zero at 100, really fast. Sometimes it's painful watching people zero at the range
Good one.
I personally like to run 4 x5 shot groups with the same point of aim for all (once I’m close to my zero) and then overlay those shots using x,y measurements. This will then give me a solid mean radius. I’ll make my final adjustment on the turret and I’m golden. So long as I only use that ammo of course.
Remington m700 .308 here! Could not agree more, and definitely cosign the laser pointer kits! Thanks for rocking the 5.11 gear too! I'm a retail store employee and love to see the product out there!
Paper is cheap. Ammo expensive. Simply use a huge target paper (or several small next to eachother). Bore sight the middle, shoot and adjust.
And regarding bore sighters: Put it in and rotate it. They are rarely perfectly centered so put the crosshairs in the middle of that "circle" of light.
factory hunting rifle Bergara Crest carbon barrel vs Crest fluted steel barrel. Which stays in your safe?
Hey , What yardage did you do your last click verification at? Thanks
Get yourself a decent shade gazebo .
And decent strong pegs , if you can't drive pegs into the ground bring 20 litre drums full water and tie to them , alternative sand bags to secure . Can set up on your own easy enough . Better in shade or out of rain .
review the cva cascade scout rifle
Nice presentation.. Also congrats on the purchase of the new range. Wish I lived closer so I. Hold help get it ready .. Hunt safe, hunt ethical, give thanks.
After one shot, place the reticle again on the bull, and using your adjustments, move the reticle to the bullet impact hole. Done!
Where can you get the turret tags?
Where can I get turret tape?
were you using an ffp or an sfp scope for this? also, being kinda new to sighting in scopes properly and to ffp vs sfp, do the turret tags still work on the sfp scopes? i feel like it would work only if you kept the magnification the same on the sfo scopes? thanks in advance!
For those who carry their rifle out in the open with a round up the spout and a sound moderator fitted. Have you ever had accuracy problems with a rain water filled barrel?
First thing first. Make sure to adjust parallax. More ammo is just wasted for no reason. I'm not talking of turning to just the yardage.
Excellent video! 👍👍
Does it matter if you use a match bullet to zero and shoot another round?
That makes so much sense, thank you
At the time I checked this there were 22 replies with some subs. After reading thru them it became obvious to me that no one had ever been in the military on range day.
●Sight in at 25 meters or about 27 yards. You're done.
●Another forgotten method from 60+ years ago is to divide the velocity of your ammo in fps by 100 and set the target at that range in yards. Ex. At 2925 fps, the target would be set at 29 yards. Zero the rifle at that range, and you're good to go for up to 7.5 times the sight-in distance, or 217 yards to be dead on again. At 260 yards you'll still be in the 6" kill zone of a deer and at 290 yards you'll still be in the 8" kill zone of an elk.
●Iron sight shooters take note: the nice thing about the two preceeding methods is that the average person can see the bullet holes in the target with the naked eye.
The first method you mentioned still has 100M confirmation shots afterward.
@@thehoneybadger8089 you just made it alot more complex then it needs to be
Never lay your cowboy hat brim down. Always brim up. :)
This video is a great video for explaining sighting a scope.
Great video! I learned a lot and can’t wait to try out the tips and techniques the next time I sight in my rifle. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Should have watched this video before i sighted my rifle! 😭 took me almost 15 shots to get on paper at 100 yards!!!
I guess Jim doesn’t respond to questions in the comments. Sad.
There is only one gun I own that I can sight it with 3 shots, an fx wildcat pcp pellet gun. Within its range it is the most accurate gun I own. It is also the most expensive. With powder burners there is way mor variables
I like the last click check. Thanks!
LOL,Backfire
17:08 Your T-shirt link in the video doesn't work. And I don't find that shirt at your website.
I agree with Cowboy Jim
He’s no cowboy. It’s just Ranch Dressing.
Nice work
Backfire you look like Billy Jack ! I'm serious we are laughing our butts off!!! Now we have to wait 15 minutes then watch your video!!
Same thing I do but I do it at 25 yards.
I have a system I like to use for my “go to” rifle and load. A range at home makes this easier but if you do and want the ultimate sight in here it is.
Pick your load and buy or load at least 20 rounds.
Shoot that rifle cold bore and only once per session, over the period of a season that has a wide range of temps and humidity and pressure.
I like a led sled to take me out of the equation for some of the shots , as we are testing to see what the gun can and will do under any conditions we may shoot at game. But you also have to mix in some “hunting field rests” like a pack or shooting sticks. October works well for me as in that month we can have temps in the 90’s and snow. I shoot at the same printed targets each time, although I may use a few different ones. Then once I have covered all the environmental conditions I can get in that 20 rounds, and if I plan on hunting with or without a bipod I will mix that in, when done I have a good picture of what group my gun can give me through a hunting season. With the all important first shot. Doing this test will shock you! 1/2 MOA guns can be 3 MOA guns in this test. If you get one that can give 1.5 MOA or less you have a fine rifle don’t let go of it!
But that’s the only test I have found that tells me if the rifle is first shot ready for hunting season. And it can rearrange your ideas of what rifles you have in order or accuracy! A gun that needs 3 fouling shots then settles in to a half MOA rifle is not a half MOA hunting rifle! And as a reloaded it makes you realize why temp stability in powders is something the industry is embracing. Or explain that rifle that was sighted in a couple months ago, and must have “gotten bumped off zero” by hunting season!
It can also show the load that shoots best in one range session may not be the best load for hunting in a season of variable weather conditions.
This test may show you some of your rifles are better than you think, and some are worse!
You can in fact boresight at 100 yards. That is how I do mine. Usually end up 8” off or less. Closer is fine of course.
Ive used the party trick method during long range 22lr shooting, and it worked perfectly!
I've always bore sighted this way and will continue doing it this way. Then I got into the 300AAC subsonic game and boy was I coming up short!
Where do you zero for 300blk subs? Or do you just pick a zero and dial from there?
Genius!
OK We all watched your viedo and now we made the point of having the ladies at the start and now we know why you kept saying chasing your tail!! hahaha!!
Number1
Cringe
@@shadowrizhik I don’t think you know what cringe means, but it’s is dumb.
@@jaydunbar7538Cringe- “have an inward feeling of acute embarrassment or awkwardness: I cringed at his stupidity.” -New Oxford American Dictionary
Thank you.
I would love to see if you would still pick the 280 AI now that the 7mm PRC has been released. Maybe a short video update?
Hey Jim, might not see this but quick question. I have a multiple rifles and run leupold scopes and I have tried to clean with alcohol wipes and what not but can never seem to get backing tape to secure a dope chart to my sticks or scope bells even. I have on some more affordable rifles like a ruger American packing tape seems to work ok, but just wanted to get your on take on the “stickiness” of your turret tags, do they seem to stick well (good for back country hunting) or do they lightly stick (good for range days and field testing etc). Thanks for your time
But a pop up canopy. I wouldn't have made it though the summer without it.
I love my turret tags!
You meant harvesting a Buffalo.
What barrel cooler are you using?
day 7 of asking Jim to review a steyr mannliche
day 9 of asking Jim to review a steyr mannlicher
Or you could do similar to what the first guy said and sight in for 2.5 or 2.75 inches high at 100 yards. That's the hunting point blank zero. Out to 300, maybe 325 depending in caliber, you can hold in the center of the heart/lung area and get a double lung hit. No need to mess with the turrets.
I grew up with this method being what everyone used and there is nothing wrong with it if done correctly. The most important of either max point blank or dialing for every distance is that a man has to know his limitations! I think someone important said that once! Ha ha!
Exactly. 3" high in my .308 is a 200 yard zero and 5-7 low at 300.👍
Of course you can do that. He’s not saying you can’t set your zero at 200 yards (or 2-3” high at 100). He’s just describing how to be judicious with ammo to get to whatever zero you want.
Depends on the calibre..... I sight high at 50 for my 300 blk (I do a shed load of subsonic supressed hunting on the edge of built up areas).... It's horses for courses... You need to know ballistics and application.... I really like this video
I want to see you shoot that same gun that you have in this video and shoot it at 010 or 20° when it's freaking cold out without adjusting anything!
I dial my turrets in the cold Montana winters with no problem?
Good copy Jim. WRT to laser bore sighting tool, are they all created equal or are some better/easier to use than others? Also, would the Hawk Hill Rifle Mounted Data Holder be useful for the rifle's dope?
Love my Bergara ;) gotthe Thumbhole in .308 was really impressed about the accuracy everytime i take it out ... getting 4cm high on 100m love it!, but usually not shooting 99% between 30 and 150m .... and 1% don't pull the trigger
So if I understand this correctly, in calculating the points it is only one point whether it is high or low, left or right no matter how far off it may be (say, 4 inches high).
Correct? Then, when applying the scope adjustment, it is only adjusted one click (i.e., 1/4 MOA) per the final point average, elevation or windage?
His final zero strategy is stupid.
Shoot 10-15 shots at the same point of aim. Find the center of the group and measure from the center to where you were aiming. Adjust accordingly.
I was hoping Jim would reply and clarify his technique. It seems a point should added for every 1/4 moa deviation up or down, not just one point. Being 1.5 inches from the POA is 6 clicks.
on the norma ballistics calculator you can work out your first zero so you can get it pretty much on target
Congratulations on 5018 orders
If you have a stable set up you can also adjust your turrets to center over your first shot. Saves having to do any maths with MOA/MIL and gets you very close as well.
What about buying one of those " multy cal " lasers??
What class of people do u shoot with? Upper,middle or lower? 😂
I bore sight 25 yards. Take one shot then dial to 1 inch high. Go out to 100 take one shot and dial to point. Done. Don’t dial by click. Look through your scope and move the crosshair with your dial to match point of impact. No math needed.
What is your aimpoint at 50 yds? DEAD on bullseye at 50?
I bore at something that is perfectly level while the flat bottom of the receiver is on a level surface, to confirm my reticle is not the slightest bit canted. I bore sight when I install the scope.