Remember that, when putting the brake calipers back on, finger tighten the bolts, and pull the brake lever until they’re well seated in the discs, and with the brake lever pulled tighten and torque the bolts, this makes sure the brake pads are well aligned and wear evenly, don’t just put them on and torque everything down.
Hint about the stiffer bristles: Trim them down with a good knife or scissors. Shorter bristles tend to be stiffer. Also, generally when cleaning brakes you need to re-grease the slide pins that the calipers ride on and a smidge of it on the places where the pads touch the spring plates. Only use grease made for brake applications.
Be warned: Many brake cleaners should never be sprayed onto rubber parts. The cleaner might dry out the seals, which in turn will lead to leaking calipers. And that’s far worse/more dangerous than dirty and squealing brakes.
Use brake cleaner only for the rotors. Spray it onto a clean rag and wipe the rotors, don't splash everywhere like on this video. Brake cleaners can damage paint.
It is always a good practice to keep your braking system in optimal working conditions. I always clean mine at every oil change and go even further. First I remove the majority of the dust just like you are showing. then I push the pistons out just enough to reveal the grime that seats just above the seals. Then with a lot of patience, I rotate all pistons one by one to ensure that everything is perfectly clean and with a bit of rubber grease I moisture the seals and exercise all pistons in and out until they move evenly inside the caliper. That is OCD! But I don't regret it!
You're misunderstanding how callipers work, the pistons don't slide on seals, the seals slide on the inside of the calliper, there is hardly any movement, the pistons only slide when the pads wear, the seals wouldn't last very long if they did. It's pretty pointless greasing the pistons unless you like attracting more brake dust and crap? Oh, you do? Right, OK.
@@CurvedSlightly let's agree to disagree. 🤔 Cannot quite see how the seals slide inside: 1. because they seat snug on the groves and 2: like you said, hardly move. Yes, your correct when you say the pistons move according the wear, but not only. They also retract, even if only a fraction of a mm, when you release the lever. So, for sure the pistons slide on the seals. As for the greasing, I don't know what you understood, but maybe smearing is more appropriate. For some reason it's done on the factory but hey, everyone does what it thinks to be the best. As long you feel comfortable with your technique, I'll be too.😉
well after watching this video, my OCD kicked in too.... I am cleaning my calipers tomorrow.... Thanks again !!!..... Best satisfying vlog on youtubr ..... CHAOS CAUSES !!!
Seems to make sense and approach seems logical and effective. Following Dave Moss suggestion for properly seating the pads also seems to make sense and I can’t see any downside for following Dave’s procedure. Good advice and video.
Just cleaned rear caliper yesterday! Well I am not using the break cleaner stuff...and it was more rebuilding than cleaning. I dismantled ever single part, cleaned and polished to better than new before reassembling with new pad...that were just too big to fit. Using a file was the cure...
If you are going to the level of removing pads you may as well take the pistons out, strip the caliper and then do seals and regrease the pin and the seals and if your doing that you may as well check the discs and bleed the brakes and this is how a 20m clean becomes an 8 hour job.
...or like me, making a 20-minute job into an 8-hour Episode of several more to follow, resulting in a week's worth of time tackling one job. Awaiting parts does not count. Hahaha
Nice video to watch and very useful, indeed. Thank you. I do clean my calipers in the course with every tire replacement since I noticed how sticky my front wheel was on my Ducati SS a couple of years ago. Since I have adopted the habit of regular cleaning up to twice a year, I never again noticed the stickiness. BTW, I was afraid to use break cleaner in the first place because of potential damage to the break piston sealings. (No clue how the solvent reacts with the rubber of the sealings.) Instead I do the first round of cleaning, targeting the excessive dirt, using a rim cleaner gel which I let soak in for about 5 minutes, then soapy water for the final wash and finally plain water.
Now that you mention it I could have only 3 out of 4 pistons working in one caliper without realising if the grime is causing an issue and I am OCD so when I next change my breaks I will DO THIS. BUT another warning. my girlfriend had her caliper cleaned by a garage and her only front brake caliper for her 125 failed while she was riding. Very scary for her thank god she was going at low speeds but this was due to them scratching the piston or potentially scratching a seal somehow. This is why I don't like to clean the calipers as I feel you may do more harm than good but now I think of it... it's probs worth doing if you want the best out of your breaks. P.S When the pads are removed you should of pumped the break to extend the pistons all the way to clean all the pistons. :) And after cleaning I would recommend reassembly and then pumping the breaks loads to make sure nothing is leaking.
You should really regrease the spring plate pins and backs of the pads to make sure nothing will seize and to have to clean less regularly and maintain smooth movment
You really shouldn't grease the back of the pads. They get hot enough to go over the grease's drop point where the grease will melt and run off. That can be super dangerous.
Nice job Dude!! I have to do a front fork re-seal this weekend and now I know I will be cleaning that front brake... In fact that's how I knew I had a oily fork cause even though it was the right fork oil got all over the front disc... The front instantly did not want to do its thing, but no noise or pad sounds... It was the oil... Thanx dude!!!
A stiff tooth brush works the best I fined ,& when you clean the disks put a nut and bolt through the hole turn with a spanner while squirting a bit of cleaner on it .Abit labour intensive but the floating bobbins whill thank you for it . A great video as always on a boring but essential job 🏍️👍🎉🎉
Hi there, I keep a few large cardboard cartons that I have carefully cut the tap lengths and the glued/stapled bit. I lay the whole thing out flat and use it as a “shitty stuff” catch all when cleaning/maintaining chains and brakes, changing engine oil or brake fluid This way anything that hits that lovely cement floor won’t have black carbon or graphite deposits in it to make life depressing after the massive high of sparkling clean rotors and callipers The cardboard dries out and can be used many times
I bought a 12-gallon plastic tough container at Walmart. Placed directly under the caliper with a large industrial black garbage bag behind it tucked in between the shock, radiator, and fairing as a backsplash protector. I use two spray bottles; one water with soap. The other only water. All spray or grime run off that drops from the caliper or off the plastic bag falls directly into the 12-gallon container. Zero mess except for my grimy hands which eventually get cleaned as I go while using the degreasing soapy water.
I'm in the process of re-building my front caliper at the moment. This comprises a complete strip of all components, of which there aren't that many, pistons, slide plate, and bleed screw, a thorough clean out of all gunk, grease and general grime. Then re-assemble with new rubber slide boots, bleed screw and pressure and Dust seals (The dust seals are missing completely!) using a re-build kit which has all the nessecary parts for the job. Brake calipers are generally pretty simple assemblies and this job shouldn't pose any great challenges to even the novice mechanic. The most difficult part is the removal of the piston/s but if you pump the brake lever until they are quite a long way out (Not too far, mind...) it makes the job a lot easier.
4:08 I shit u not their chain lube smells like berries, idk wtf they are snorting over at Muc-off but it makes me love to lube chain cos it smells so good lol
Mate thanks for the video. This procedure is often neglected by riders. The rear is always dirtier. My last clean was a week ago after a 2000 km trip. And I used the soapy water and an old toothbrush. Brake cleaner adds the final touch to this crispy well sleeping feeling. Stopping the bike is as important as all the other things we like to do on2 wheels, right?!?
Very nice job with this vid sir! The more I watched, the more inspired I got, even to the verge of frenzy, then my heart sank like a brick in water. The issue? Within a 1000 miles they will probably be filthy again, but I am undaunted. I will clean my KLR brakes as per your instruction, then let the chips fall where they may. Thanx again sir!
Wee bit copper grease on the pins and back of the pads, when replacing them. Clean the calliper with soapy water just and have the bucket over it then your floor not get covered in Shite. A tiny spray of brake cleaner then, no need for over kill
I start with iron fall out wheel cleaner and hot soapy water. Remove any rubbers, clean and a dab of rubber grease. Brake cleaner and stiff bristle toothbrush (not on the rubbers obs) I use a little thread lock when the bolts go back in.
a short 10mm bolt, and a couple of washers come in handy, tighten it in to the bobbins, so the bobbins can be rotated, and sprayed with brake cleaner, as the brake dust seizes them up if not cleaned out!
Wouldnt spray brake cleaner straight onto the caliper, can dry out the rubber seals... However cleaning the pads and disks with it could likely make a difference if they are dirty
I got my sport bike 4 years ago, and never once I cleaned the brakes. My front brake has started making brushing noises even when the brakes are not actuated. I guess this is the right time to get those bad boys cleaned up
Michael K nothing to be scared of. Do some TH-cam search on your bike make and model and brake rebuild. There will almost always be something to watch. Then when you do the work take pictures as you dis-assemble. Take your time. Enjoy the learning
It's actually is a an easy job, just make sure you don't pump the brakes when it's disassembled. If you are changing brake pads clean them thoroughly before pushing the pistons in, if you don't you'll push grime into it and now you have to do a caliper rebuild. Last and also very important: once they're all mounted and done, pump the brakes until they feel ok.
I just cleaned my caliper before this video. One tip is, the detailing brush doesnt really clean the surface. What u can do is put a cable tight on the top part of the bristle to make it hard and really clean your intended surface.
How do you put the reatining clip back on I didn't see that? Or will I know once I take caliper off? Haven't took mine apart yet..wanted to make sure i could do it properly. Never done this before. Bikes been stood few yrs for multiple reasons. So need to give it alot of attention to bring it back to life. Thanks. Loved this video
You will definitely find out when you disassemble, but essentially, there are holes in the pin and you slip the retaining clips through those holes to prevent any adverse movement.
Thus video came at a great time! I was just starting to notice that my rear break is getting slightly spongey, so i was thinking that i either needed to change the pads, or clean the calipers
You didn't clean the pistons properly. Pull the brake lever until they come out a bit more to clean the entire outside of them. When you're done you can push them back in. It requires a bit of strength but it's not that hard
Don't touch the lever after dissembling the brake you can end up in a expensive rebuild. Most of the time piston that is inside the brake body will be clean so you just have to clean the protruding portion of piston.
@@KB-ke1nt sorry this is simply not true. Brake dust will be collected on the outside of the pistons you NEED to clean that otherwise your seals will really thank you for that. Yes you can and have to push the lever to make the pistons come out a little. Sure you shouldn't hammer on it and make them come out all the way. Now explain me what's exactly wrong with that? Even if you screwed up something which i can't imagine someone would be able to what is so "expensive". A rebuild kit for both my calipers costs 50 bucks. What expensive thing do you have to fix then?
@@KB-ke1ntI am not understanding this advice. To remove the brake pads, you must separate the pads to remove them which pushes the pistons back in. Using the brake lever, gently, and under careful observation, will allow them to expand again for a good cleaning. I also saw another video where the rider placed a tool in between the four expanding pistons so they would not come out fully, but perfectly even.
TODAY! I cleaned them today. And the pistons are still sticking. It was about a 50% stick before, now it's a 40% stick. I'm looking for like 10% stick.
Don't forget smearing a tiny dab of anti-squeal paste on the back of the pads and on the guide pin. The former will keep them from squealing when applied (of course) and the latter will help them slide on the pin easily when applied. It's a critical step no one should forget.
You really shouldn't grease the back of the pads. They get hot enough to go over the drop point of the grease and the grease will then melt and run off. It's dangerous.
@@disekjoumoer Yeah I don't bother doing it, my brakes don't squeak anyway. I like how he calls it a "critical" step. I only put grease on the slide pins and on the threads for the pad guide pin.
I clean my calipers and disks every time i go for an oil change. It's part of the process i follow. Drain the oil Remove the oil filter let it drain some more check all the main bolts - including caliper's after a good clean
can it gets cleaned with kerosene+water? Its hard and bit expensive to get brake cleaner in my town (Sabah) with shipping restrictions and lockdowns. I used kerosene+water to clean my chain.
Brother just because ur an experienced rider. Pls guide me. In My cbr250r . C-abs the brakes even upon pressing hard does not make the motorcycle stop effectively. The brake pads gives a sound of a sort of slipping. I have opened up the brake callipers and cleaned them. Also I have bleed the front and the rear brake s. Also the second bleeding nipple on the front callipers. Is it because of the brake pads or something else in the brakes system. I am unable to locate the cause of this ineffective brakes that even on pressing the brakes too hard the bike does not stops immediately. It slows down but does not stops immediately and therefore the abs is not working because of that.Can anyone suggest the solution?
I love that you cleaned the discs too, but over time brake dust builds up on them almost microscopically and sticks hard. Use a scotch brite/rough side of a washing up sponge witch is the same, or even fine sand paper, either of those with the brake cleaner. Clean on both sides of each disc while rubbing it and spinning the wheel on paddock stands and it will remove it. Depending on the mileage the discs have done, you may notice your brakes actually feel sharper, and it can even cure juddering under heavy braking. I'll be waiting on my shout out in the disc deep clean episode 😂😎👍
As always dude really enjoyed your video 😊 you’re channel has grown greatly over the last couple of years and might i say very well deserved to 👍🏻. Don’t think it’s going to be to long before you hit the 100k mark 🤗🤗🤗🤗 Adam 🇬🇧
Highly un-necessary. also, dont spray brake clean directly on the pistons. some pistons are lubed and behind them are sometimes rubber that could leak as some brake clean can weaken rubber. Brakes do not need to be cleaned like this.
Great content, I have a question. Is there a specific time to do that, like after a few months or years? Or that depends on your covered distance. I'm asking you that because I haven't done that yet.
I'd personally do a deep clean like this every 10,000kms or every year. It takes a while for brake dust to build up and start causing problems. All depends on how hard you ride the brakes 😁
Michael Martyn will I didn’t reach 10K but its been 2 years and thats because we don’t Ride much in my country cause its really Hot ( 55 Degree ) and more than that in Summer and winter is almost 4 months.
you forgot 2 most important things in the end - lube brake pistons with silicone brake piston caliper lube - now after clening they are dry, and needs to be lubed Second thing is to position brake calipers in good position according to rotors... Tight by hand screws, then back 1/4 turn and spin wheel, pump a little with brake lever to set position of calipers and with pressure on brakes, tight screws on brake calipers. Now your job is done. If you did not do that, you will have to do.
Remember that, when putting the brake calipers back on, finger tighten the bolts, and pull the brake lever until they’re well seated in the discs, and with the brake lever pulled tighten and torque the bolts, this makes sure the brake pads are well aligned and wear evenly, don’t just put them on and torque everything down.
Best advice here! Thanks
sweet advice, never thought of doing that .. we all learn something new no matter how old we get :D
Dave moss has a great video on this where he walks through the process of putting the front wheel back on and making sure it is aligned
This is only for the front brakes right? The rears work different. They always have a little play.
That does exactly fcuk-all, and is 100% wrong.
“With some soapy water”
me who watches Chris fix almost religiously
*HEY GUYS*
I am also a huge fan of Chris Fix
@@suggestmean6026 me to
LOL! I said Soapy wooder in my mind
@@suggestmean6026 does chris fix only fixes cars?
Channel is so criminally underrated on god. Well I can say I was here before he blows up
Hint about the stiffer bristles: Trim them down with a good knife or scissors. Shorter bristles tend to be stiffer. Also, generally when cleaning brakes you need to re-grease the slide pins that the calipers ride on and a smidge of it on the places where the pads touch the spring plates. Only use grease made for brake applications.
Be warned:
Many brake cleaners should never be sprayed onto rubber parts. The cleaner might dry out the seals, which in turn will lead to leaking calipers. And that’s far worse/more dangerous than dirty and squealing brakes.
I know this brake cleaner well and it's suitable for rubber seals. I imagine cheaper ones might eat thru tho.
Use brake cleaner only for the rotors. Spray it onto a clean rag and wipe the rotors, don't splash everywhere like on this video. Brake cleaners can damage paint.
What do You recommend for rubber parts? Thanks in advance
@@LOREGUINNESS silicone spray is the best for rubber parts
Some people says Plastic conditioner is better than Silicone
It is always a good practice to keep your braking system in optimal working conditions.
I always clean mine at every oil change and go even further.
First I remove the majority of the dust just like you are showing. then I push the pistons out just enough to reveal the grime that seats just above the seals.
Then with a lot of patience, I rotate all pistons one by one to ensure that everything is perfectly clean and with a bit of rubber grease I moisture the seals and exercise all pistons in and out until they move evenly inside the caliper.
That is OCD! But I don't regret it!
You're misunderstanding how callipers work, the pistons don't slide on seals, the seals slide on the inside of the calliper, there is hardly any movement, the pistons only slide when the pads wear, the seals wouldn't last very long if they did. It's pretty pointless greasing the pistons unless you like attracting more brake dust and crap? Oh, you do? Right, OK.
@@CurvedSlightly let's agree to disagree. 🤔
Cannot quite see how the seals slide inside: 1. because they seat snug on the groves and 2: like you said, hardly move.
Yes, your correct when you say the pistons move according the wear, but not only. They also retract, even if only a fraction of a mm, when you release the lever. So, for sure the pistons slide on the seals.
As for the greasing, I don't know what you understood, but maybe smearing is more appropriate. For some reason it's done on the factory but hey, everyone does what it thinks to be the best. As long you feel comfortable with your technique, I'll be too.😉
Man this guy is the best motorcycle TH-camr you do professional reviews very artistic editing hope the uk is good for you
he knows stuff. using "soapy wooder" 🤟
Chris fix, my man
ChrisFix my guy
well after watching this video, my OCD kicked in too.... I am cleaning my calipers tomorrow.... Thanks again !!!..... Best satisfying vlog on youtubr ..... CHAOS CAUSES !!!
Best thing to happen on a Friday!
Old tooth brush works good for cleaning the inside of the pistons (as it’s right angled), nice vid man
Seems to make sense and approach seems logical and effective. Following Dave Moss suggestion for properly seating the pads also seems to make sense and I can’t see any downside for following Dave’s procedure. Good advice and video.
Just cleaned rear caliper yesterday! Well I am not using the break cleaner stuff...and it was more rebuilding than cleaning. I dismantled ever single part, cleaned and polished to better than new before reassembling with new pad...that were just too big to fit. Using a file was the cure...
"Using a file was the cure." 😂👍
If you are going to the level of removing pads you may as well take the pistons out, strip the caliper and then do seals and regrease the pin and the seals and if your doing that you may as well check the discs and bleed the brakes and this is how a 20m clean becomes an 8 hour job.
...or like me, making a 20-minute job into an 8-hour Episode of several more to follow, resulting in a week's worth of time tackling one job. Awaiting parts does not count. Hahaha
Thanks a lot, my front brake and my clutch feels almost the same for me inspite of changing my pads. I'll definitely give this method a try.
Did you properly bed and break in the pads?
Nice video to watch and very useful, indeed. Thank you. I do clean my calipers in the course with every tire replacement since I noticed how sticky my front wheel was on my Ducati SS a couple of years ago. Since I have adopted the habit of regular cleaning up to twice a year, I never again noticed the stickiness. BTW, I was afraid to use break cleaner in the first place because of potential damage to the break piston sealings. (No clue how the solvent reacts with the rubber of the sealings.) Instead I do the first round of cleaning, targeting the excessive dirt, using a rim cleaner gel which I let soak in for about 5 minutes, then soapy water for the final wash and finally plain water.
Nissin calipers looked quite easy to disassemble. Might try it on my street twin. Any useful tips?
cleaned mine out just yesterday, definitely notice the difference. as always, great vid man!
best channels on youtube "chaos causes" & "fortnine"
Don't forget ol' yammie noob
@@jason_a7420 meh, he's not what he used to be
@@justanotherbiker9531 yeah that's true. But its still a good channel
try a toothbrush next time.
and wow that front wheel really spun for so long?? on the stock bearings?
Little tip .. push the pistons out a little, then clean :) good video !
Exactly, then you remove the lip of grime on the piston next to the caliper! Great tip!
Bad tip, but thanks 4 playing tho, m8.
Now that you mention it I could have only 3 out of 4 pistons working in one caliper without realising if the grime is causing an issue and I am OCD so when I next change my breaks I will DO THIS.
BUT another warning. my girlfriend had her caliper cleaned by a garage and her only front brake caliper for her 125 failed while she was riding. Very scary for her thank god she was going at low speeds but this was due to them scratching the piston or potentially scratching a seal somehow. This is why I don't like to clean the calipers as I feel you may do more harm than good but now I think of it... it's probs worth doing if you want the best out of your breaks.
P.S When the pads are removed you should of pumped the break to extend the pistons all the way to clean all the pistons. :) And after cleaning I would recommend reassembly and then pumping the breaks loads to make sure nothing is leaking.
You should really regrease the spring plate pins and backs of the pads to make sure nothing will seize and to have to clean less regularly and maintain smooth movment
You really shouldn't grease the back of the pads. They get hot enough to go over the grease's drop point where the grease will melt and run off. That can be super dangerous.
Shouldn't you also apply some copper lube onto the pin?
Nice job Dude!! I have to do a front fork re-seal this weekend and now I know I will be cleaning that front brake... In fact that's how I knew I had a oily fork cause even though it was the right fork oil got all over the front disc... The front instantly did not want to do its thing, but no noise or pad sounds... It was the oil... Thanx dude!!!
A stiff tooth brush works the best I fined ,& when you clean the disks put a nut and bolt through the hole turn with a spanner while squirting a bit of cleaner on it .Abit labour intensive but the floating bobbins whill thank you for it . A great video as always on a boring but essential job 🏍️👍🎉🎉
This is very helpful bc i do have problems whit my front brakes right now
Few people read the manual and realize OEM brake lines need replacing every 4 years.
Hi there, I keep a few large cardboard cartons that I have carefully cut the tap lengths and the glued/stapled bit. I lay the whole thing out flat and use it as a “shitty stuff” catch all when cleaning/maintaining chains and brakes, changing engine oil or brake fluid
This way anything that hits that lovely cement floor won’t have black carbon or graphite deposits in it to make life depressing after the massive high of sparkling clean rotors and callipers
The cardboard dries out and can be used many times
I bought a 12-gallon plastic tough container at Walmart. Placed directly under the caliper with a large industrial black garbage bag behind it tucked in between the shock, radiator, and fairing as a backsplash protector. I use two spray bottles; one water with soap. The other only water. All spray or grime run off that drops from the caliper or off the plastic bag falls directly into the 12-gallon container. Zero mess except for my grimy hands which eventually get cleaned as I go while using the degreasing soapy water.
I'm in the process of re-building my front caliper at the moment. This comprises a complete strip of all components, of which there aren't that many, pistons, slide plate, and bleed screw, a thorough clean out of all gunk, grease and general grime. Then re-assemble with new rubber slide boots, bleed screw and pressure and Dust seals (The dust seals are missing completely!) using a re-build kit which has all the nessecary parts for the job.
Brake calipers are generally pretty simple assemblies and this job shouldn't pose any great challenges to even the novice mechanic. The most difficult part is the removal of the piston/s but if you pump the brake lever until they are quite a long way out (Not too far, mind...) it makes the job a lot easier.
4:08 I shit u not their chain lube smells like berries, idk wtf they are snorting over at Muc-off but it makes me love to lube chain cos it smells so good lol
Mate thanks for the video. This procedure is often neglected by riders. The rear is always dirtier. My last clean was a week ago after a 2000 km trip. And I used the soapy water and an old toothbrush. Brake cleaner adds the final touch to this crispy well sleeping feeling. Stopping the bike is as important as all the other things we like to do on2 wheels, right?!?
Miss the sound of the R1, its good that the sound of the R1 is on the intro❤
Very nice job with this vid sir! The more I watched, the more inspired I got, even to the verge of frenzy, then my heart sank like a brick in water. The issue? Within a 1000 miles they will probably be filthy again, but I am undaunted. I will clean my KLR brakes as per your instruction, then let the chips fall where they may. Thanx again sir!
Wee bit copper grease on the pins and back of the pads, when replacing them. Clean the calliper with soapy water just and have the bucket over it then your floor not get covered in Shite. A tiny spray of brake cleaner then, no need for over kill
I start with iron fall out wheel cleaner and hot soapy water. Remove any rubbers, clean and a dab of rubber grease. Brake cleaner and stiff bristle toothbrush (not on the rubbers obs) I use a little thread lock when the bolts go back in.
Buy brake cleaner in 5l container and use a plant sprayer, it’s a lot cheaper than little cans
a short 10mm bolt, and a couple of washers come in handy, tighten it in to the bobbins, so the bobbins can be rotated, and sprayed with brake cleaner, as the brake dust seizes them up if not cleaned out!
Kudos Bro. This cleaning is "maintenance".
Wouldnt spray brake cleaner straight onto the caliper, can dry out the rubber seals...
However cleaning the pads and disks with it could likely make a difference if they are dirty
I got my sport bike 4 years ago, and never once I cleaned the brakes. My front brake has started making brushing noises even when the brakes are not actuated. I guess this is the right time to get those bad boys cleaned up
I'm a bit scared of being unable to put my brakes properly back together again.
Michael K nothing to be scared of. Do some TH-cam search on your bike make and model and brake rebuild. There will almost always be something to watch. Then when you do the work take pictures as you dis-assemble. Take your time. Enjoy the learning
take pictures as you remove parts, then just follow them in reverse
It's actually is a an easy job, just make sure you don't pump the brakes when it's disassembled. If you are changing brake pads clean them thoroughly before pushing the pistons in, if you don't you'll push grime into it and now you have to do a caliper rebuild. Last and also very important: once they're all mounted and done, pump the brakes until they feel ok.
@@AndresArrieta I learned this the hard way on my first attempt .. Without thinking I pressed the brake many times and the pistons came out hahaha
Same stuff but, if u want to learn take step by step take a picture or find some youtube videos :)
I am wondering if steam cleaner could make cleaning easier and bring better results
Force pistons out slightly after caliper clean and scrub pistons with brake fluid and roothbrush helps lubricate and clean. Nice vid
Lubricate with brake fluid on external surfaces? 😮
I just cleaned my caliper before this video. One tip is, the detailing brush doesnt really clean the surface. What u can do is put a cable tight on the top part of the bristle to make it hard and really clean your intended surface.
It is so cool to see how much u love your bike
Any 44 teeth fans notice the JHS Racing sticker on the front forks?
That Was A Sneak Peak Of New Handle Bar Coming On The Beast From ProTaper!⚠️
Awesome!!! I learned a lot from your channel bro! Looking forward to watch more of your DIY’s and cleaning stuff with your new MC. Cheers!
How about old tooth brushes ? For stiffer bristles
I use tooth brushes. They are better for scrubbing dirt out of recessed areas in the brake caliper than the straight brushes shown in the video.
Dang I didn't even know you had to clean brake callipers. Thanks for the info!
Can i use break/disc cleaner while the caliper are still on the bike with breakpads inside?
What make are those paddock stands? They look nice
How do you put the reatining clip back on I didn't see that? Or will I know once I take caliper off? Haven't took mine apart yet..wanted to make sure i could do it properly. Never done this before. Bikes been stood few yrs for multiple reasons. So need to give it alot of attention to bring it back to life. Thanks. Loved this video
You will definitely find out when you disassemble, but essentially, there are holes in the pin and you slip the retaining clips through those holes to prevent any adverse movement.
Love your videos, very informational and fun to watch!!
Thanks dude! Mine are definitely due. 7k never touched the brakes
Thus video came at a great time! I was just starting to notice that my rear break is getting slightly spongey, so i was thinking that i either needed to change the pads, or clean the calipers
i almost forgot those.. i'll check it soon..
Any ideas why my new brake pads squeek at low speed under trafic lights?
You didn't clean the pistons properly. Pull the brake lever until they come out a bit more to clean the entire outside of them. When you're done you can push them back in. It requires a bit of strength but it's not that hard
Don't touch the lever after dissembling the brake you can end up in a expensive rebuild. Most of the time piston that is inside the brake body will be clean so you just have to clean the protruding portion of piston.
@@KB-ke1nt sorry this is simply not true. Brake dust will be collected on the outside of the pistons you NEED to clean that otherwise your seals will really thank you for that. Yes you can and have to push the lever to make the pistons come out a little. Sure you shouldn't hammer on it and make them come out all the way. Now explain me what's exactly wrong with that? Even if you screwed up something which i can't imagine someone would be able to what is so "expensive". A rebuild kit for both my calipers costs 50 bucks. What expensive thing do you have to fix then?
@@KB-ke1ntI am not understanding this advice. To remove the brake pads, you must separate the pads to remove them which pushes the pistons back in. Using the brake lever, gently, and under careful observation, will allow them to expand again for a good cleaning. I also saw another video where the rider placed a tool in between the four expanding pistons so they would not come out fully, but perfectly even.
I think it's time to get cleaning then... Nice work! 👌🏻
where did you get that bike stands from?
Loved this AD for muc-off.
Shouldn't you lube the guides and pistons before re-assembly?
No copper grease behind the pads?
Just did the same today and also lost a locking pin for front brake pads.
Oops😅
@@nishikaperera2988 😔
which bike? and is the brake cleaner ( spray) worth it or is it fine if i clean it with soap water?
@@akshayveralkar4611 Soap water should do fine.
@@deploy_leroy ok was about to order wurth brake cleaner
TODAY! I cleaned them today. And the pistons are still sticking. It was about a 50% stick before, now it's a 40% stick. I'm looking for like 10% stick.
what if my bike is brand new? should I grab a nice master cylinder and steel lines anyway?
Always love what you do with your videos
I find cheap firm toothbrushes get into alot of the hard to get places
Man !!! Its 2 am I can't sleep and I now have the need clean my much loved guzzi brakes !!! Lol cool vid keep up the good work
Yeah they sell the stuff at the auto parts store called brake cleaner. Works wonders. Use that.
Your video presentation is awesome dude.
I see a JHS Racing sticker, looks like that bike was / is being well looked after!
Don't forget smearing a tiny dab of anti-squeal paste on the back of the pads and on the guide pin. The former will keep them from squealing when applied (of course) and the latter will help them slide on the pin easily when applied. It's a critical step no one should forget.
You really shouldn't grease the back of the pads. They get hot enough to go over the drop point of the grease and the grease will then melt and run off. It's dangerous.
@@disekjoumoer Yeah I don't bother doing it, my brakes don't squeak anyway. I like how he calls it a "critical" step. I only put grease on the slide pins and on the threads for the pad guide pin.
@@disekjoumoer You should use proper brake grease. This will melt at the same temperature your brake fluid will catch fire
i feel kinda uncomfortable spraying solvent right at the seals inside my caliper hope you dont ave any issues
I clean my calipers and disks every time i go for an oil change. It's part of the process i follow.
Drain the oil
Remove the oil filter
let it drain some more
check all the main bolts - including caliper's after a good clean
can it gets cleaned with kerosene+water? Its hard and bit expensive to get brake cleaner in my town (Sabah) with shipping restrictions and lockdowns. I used kerosene+water to clean my chain.
Liquid dish soap or car wash soap works well.
Another quality video chaos!🙌
Brother just because ur an experienced rider. Pls guide me. In My cbr250r . C-abs the brakes even upon pressing hard does not make the motorcycle stop effectively. The brake pads gives a sound of a sort of slipping. I have opened up the brake callipers and cleaned them. Also I have bleed the front and the rear brake s. Also the second bleeding nipple on the front callipers. Is it because of the brake pads or something else in the brakes system. I am unable to locate the cause of this ineffective brakes that even on pressing the brakes too hard the bike does not stops immediately. It slows down but does not stops immediately and therefore the abs is not working because of that.Can anyone suggest the solution?
I love that you cleaned the discs too, but over time brake dust builds up on them almost microscopically and sticks hard. Use a scotch brite/rough side of a washing up sponge witch is the same, or even fine sand paper, either of those with the brake cleaner. Clean on both sides of each disc while rubbing it and spinning the wheel on paddock stands and it will remove it. Depending on the mileage the discs have done, you may notice your brakes actually feel sharper, and it can even cure juddering under heavy braking. I'll be waiting on my shout out in the disc deep clean episode 😂😎👍
How about with steam cleaning bro?
isopropyl alcohol + toothbrush and don't forget to push the caliper cylinders a bit out to clean them properly
Soon: in 5 minutes, after I grab a bucket, cloth and brush. Thanks for the simple video and enjoyable clean brakes :)
No need to grease up the brakes?
Try sanding lightly the used brake pads, until uniform dull color is made. This makes a positive difference.
What grit do you use?
what are the sizes of those break pad star bolts
As always dude really enjoyed your video 😊 you’re channel has grown greatly over the last couple of years and might i say very well deserved to 👍🏻. Don’t think it’s going to be to long before you hit the 100k mark 🤗🤗🤗🤗
Adam 🇬🇧
209 now!
Nice advise 😃👍
How frequently we have to clean the brake calipers?
Highly un-necessary. also, dont spray brake clean directly on the pistons. some pistons are lubed and behind them are sometimes rubber that could leak as some brake clean can weaken rubber. Brakes do not need to be cleaned like this.
Can we use chain cleaner as break cleaner ?
Very helpful and enjoyable video!
Well done this a very good video for Motorcylists and definitely gets my approval!
So does it brake better now?
Did you notice any difference in braking performance after cleaning?
I use methylated spirits, does anyone know if methyl violet leaves any residue bc I'm tired of distilling mine in case they do.
Great content, I have a question. Is there a specific time to do that, like after a few months or years? Or that depends on your covered distance.
I'm asking you that because I haven't done that yet.
I'd personally do a deep clean like this every 10,000kms or every year. It takes a while for brake dust to build up and start causing problems. All depends on how hard you ride the brakes 😁
Michael Martyn will I didn’t reach 10K but its been 2 years and thats because we don’t Ride much in my country cause its really Hot ( 55 Degree ) and more than that in Summer and winter is almost 4 months.
Can use liqui Moly brake and chain cleaner?
Any brake/clutch cleaner is fine.
Another great video buddy!🤟🏼
you forgot 2 most important things in the end - lube brake pistons with silicone brake piston caliper lube - now after clening they are dry, and needs to be lubed
Second thing is to position brake calipers in good position according to rotors... Tight by hand screws, then back 1/4 turn and spin wheel, pump a little with brake lever to set position of calipers and with pressure on brakes, tight screws on brake calipers.
Now your job is done. If you did not do that, you will have to do.