I live in a tropical country with an average rainfall of about 3000mm(in my region) and have my bike parked outside but I've almost never had rusty chains. I use WD-40 to clean the chain once a month and then lube it with ep90 gear oil it's cheap and works so well! Maybe you should try gear oil on your bike's chain for some time and see if it improves the rust situation.
I've tried multiple chain lubes to stop rusting, and for me I find that giving the chain a quick once over after a ride with GT85 on a rag is working the best for stopping rust, 14000 miles and 6 years old and the chain still looks brand new
Throwback to FortNine's video on chain lubricants - I found the Maxima Chain Wax to be the best at preventing chain rust, and this was one of his findings in his video as well. Cleaning the chain well is one thing, but a lubricant suited to your environment is another. I live in a rainy city near the ocean, and find it suits me well here. Others in dryer climates may benefit from other products. Maybe you will have better luck trying a few chain lubes out!
I had the same problem on my Mt-07. There isn't much rain, but I live 150m away from the beach. So the air is very salty. The standard DID chain used to rust very quickly. Even though I never rode it in the rain. But the gold plated one did not rust once. I have 15000kms with the chain so far. Model: D.I.D 525VX3
oh yeah, if you apply the wax when the chains hot like youre supposed to that stuff really sticks, of course it flings a little at first but once it settles its on there good. have tried others in the absolute variety bag of weather that is chicago and none hold up as good or as long
I have a recommendation for people with the same problem, use lube from Motul the c4 factory line because it leaves a layer that is sticky that keeps away dirt and water( don't be afraid to use a good amount, obviously don't use too much but aply a decent layer don't be cheap with it )+ if you have the possibility to buy a new chain or when you are forced to buy a new one get a brass plated one because brass doesn't rust . Hope it helps
My 09 also sits outside under a cover and I recently switched to gear oil on the chain which kept the rust off even with all that rain we had. Brits love that shiyt on their chains. I use a small paint brush to get the whole chain coated well in a thin layer of oil.
@@Peanutdinos3000Been a year now and gear oil is so much easier to clean off the chain, no rust and all the links are in perfect condition after 10 000km. Will never use a chain wax or chain lube again. Stuff is cheap and works well at also keeping crap off the chain. All the other products and big brands I have used accumulate a thick nasty grease on the chain guide and around the inside of the front sprocket housing.
Gearbox oil painted onto the chain... yes it's high fling, and needs toping back up regularly, but works wonders. Alternatively a properly set up scotoiller system. If ur riding regularly enough the coating will stay topped up and the moisture will stay away.
According to Kawasaki user manual, chain should be cleaned with kerosene (I use a microfiber rag), then oiled with 10W40 transmission oil (here another rag for thoroughly coating it). Takes a bit of time, but it's inexpensive and probably the most effective. I honestly cringe at all the sparkling fancy chain cleaner and lube, and the brush you showed is really good at spraying dirt around but less so in cleaning. My bike sits outside, we have a lot less rain, but I left the chain unattended for months. Recently I saw it rusty and cleaned it as explained, came out as shiny as before. Everyone, stop wasting money on the most expensive/marketed stuff, cleaning a piece of metal is no rocket science.
The point is that the engine oil will fling around like crazy, and it will be an absolute nightmare when cleaning your sprocket afterwards. I've tried and decided that it's not for me.
My triumph manual says the same thing but it looks like D.I.D have change the formula of their O/X rings and now have a massive warning on their site saying not to use anything paraffin based (which is what kerosene is)
Motorcycle manufacturers have been stating in their manuals for 40 years to use kerosene as a chain cleaner (which is what commercial spray chain cleaners are with a scent modifier added). Kerosene cleans, lubes and is safe on O & X rings.
Kerosine will reach through rings and wash factory lube. So the whole idea is you need a tiny bit of protection for the outside of rings no more that that.
another EXCELLENT VIDEO.! I am watching from Canada We have Winter for 6 months a year, I take my whole chain off and keep it in a pale of oil I put a length-wise cut rubber hose over the exposed chain to help protect from the rain
All 3 of my bikes live outside and I have learnt that to prevent rust I apply a thin coating of ACF50 after washing and drying the chain. Then apply chain wax/lube to it like normal. The ACF50 won't damage the O rings but it will prevent rust. I apply ACF50 to my shocks and other bare metal components and they look brand new even after years.
I have a lot of experience for rain riding and parking a bike outside without a cover. My advice is to use a thick oil. I personally use gear oil but there are other options that are cleaner.
My bike lives outside too. Use gear oil instead of chain spray... Get an oiler, even small plastic flasks with a nozzle will do. One drop per link every 300kms on the MT-09 (or install a chain oiler). Less grime, little to zero rust, less chain noise.
I've found that white lithium grease spray works great as a chain lube over longer periods. It seems to be closer to the lubricant that comes on the chain originally but cleanup requires some extra work.
white chain spray is always nice ive using 1 from S100. You can really see a bit of white liquid on your chain and easily check if you need to lube your chain or not. The Spray is really sticky tho so it wont get on your rims but that means your chain is harder to clean...👍
@esemceX been riding pretty much every day of my adult life. It works better than wax. Grease does collect grit but it doesn't seem to be an issue as long as the chain is cleaned. Using my bike as a daily driver is tough on the chain and I can't do this all the time. grease works best in these cases. I should add that a little wd-40 can help clean the grit in between chain care.
claen up is breeze if you get wd 40 and spray rag and wipe it all down any grease or lube you see is useless to chain. WD 40 removes it and leaves water dispersant film on outer chain as rust inhibitor and wd40 cleans any gooey sticky crap great and removed chain sling off wheels easy. and off any surface and does not harm any plastic metal or painted surface, wd40 is water dispersant though NOT A LUBE it cleans lube never spray on chain spray on rag and wipe outside of chain only to clean and protect
Best advise i can give as a fellow SA Biker who’s bike had to overnight outside in the elements, clean your chain with parafin/kerosine and for winter, use chain wax, the blue can. It leaves a thick white layer over your chain and is more protective during winter with the rain, also remember to lube less than every 5k km during winter if you ride in the rain. When cleaning, dont use the high pressure washer on your chain, kerosine and the chain brush, then rinse off with hot dishwashing water(sunlight liquid) to rinse the kerosine off, then dry and immediately lube the chain. Park the bike for at least 12-24 hrs so the lube will set sufficiently before riding again. You can thank me by continuing to produce such great content my man 😅
@@ChaosCauses The content is as higj quality as ever, although the orange and blue was iconic. With the new logo there isnt really any colour signature to the channel
Here in India I use Diesel and it cleans up the rust pretty nicely. Plus the motul c2 is not recommended for monsoon and tropical weather i once read the label on the back. Motul if I am not wrong recommend c3 for that. I personally use gear oil to lube and it always works.
I have never had a chain rust in 40 years of daily street riding; street long distance touring (weeks at a time) where is would be parked outside at a hotel, motel over night rain or dry; off-road riding and racing motorcycles. Motorcycle manufacturers have been stating in their manuals for 40 years to use kerosene as a chain cleaner (which is what commercial spray chain cleaners are with a scent modifier added). Kerosene cleans, lubes and is safe on O & X rings. If the chain is dry and not full of mud a dry spray teflon type lube will protect the chain from water and thus rust; and will not attract dirt, road grim,...nor fling off. I know many off-road riders, myself included that use this as our lube for off-road bikes as the sticky lubes just turn into a grindng compound with the accumulated dirt, sand,...and add to wearing the chain and sprockets. Remember the rust you see on the outside of the outer plate is only a % of the rust on the chain when you consider the inner side of that plate & the other plate (with 2 sides) on the other side of the chain. After a ride I will dry the chain with a rag or let the bike idle in gear for a minute or so with the rear wheel off the ground so centrifugal force of the wheel and chain going in their circles drives out the water and moisture. Then I immediately apply some sort of coating, a spray lube or gear oil.
Hey man, you never use WD40 on an Oring chain as it will seep behind the rubber Orings & make the inner grease turn to liquid which will seep back out of the Orings. I recently sold my 2016 MT07 & after 8 years of continued use my chain remained practical like new! How I managed that, considering I never wiped, brushed, sprayed or cleaned it, was by fitting a Vacuum Scotoiler system to the bike. These things work brilliantly, but they are expensive these days. So my new bike is going to be fitted with a Nero 2 manual chain oiler which works in the exact same way, but they make less mess to the rear wheel & they are much cheaper to buy. I'll still use the Scotoiler oil in the Nero 2 as that's what kept my MT07 chain in perfect condition for the 8 years I had it, from new!
Once the anti rust coating is damaged, there is nothing you can do anymore. The only way is to add the coating back which means new chain. You can try some darker color chain grease like Maxima Chain Wax which will hide the rust a bit better. Ultimately, if your bike sits outside, I would make sure you coat the whole chain in chain grease, not just the rollers.
Green scourer also works instead of wire wool. I've been lubricating my chain with gear oil and that works fine. But for that much rain, perhaps a chain wax would be better at stopping the water from contacting the metal.
at the end of the day it comes down to what enviroment you ride in. i live in Scotland, rains most of the year, in winter they grit the roads, most cars 8 years old and over are covered in rust underneath as the grit/salt sticks to the bottom and doesnt get washed very often and eats away at the metal. i ride a kawasaki 650 versys, it has 11k miles, its stored outside but not under a cover, my step dad was into bikes and classic cars, he said if i keep it under a cover, open it to air it after the rain as the condensation builds up under the cover. currently my chain is in good condition after 11k miles, even some rides in winter weather, but at last service i got told off by mechanic for oiling it too much.
Used gear oil and a weekly wipe down with WD40 for years, the spray on lubricants in a can are a waste of money, they also attract a lot of dirt. You don’t need a lot of oil or lubricants with modern chains unless you enjoy cleaning wheels and tyres😉
I used a rotary wire brush in power drill. Gets it super clean and shiny. You could also wipe on some rust converter (if you want to). Just use a nice white lithium lube; and ride it like you stole it (safely) !!!. Enjoy.
My way of preventing rust was whenever I clean my motorcycle, I also cleaned the chain too while using steel brush to scrub out any rust in the process of washing my bike ( usually hardly any rust but I do it mostly to clean up the old oil ). Then I dried my motorcycle up and clean the chain one more time with any sort of solvent like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol to pull out excess water stuck within the chain link which causing the water to be mix up with the solvent and completely evaporate off very quickly, when the solvent is all dried up which will took probably 2-3mins and only then is when I will use a dry tooth brush and lightly brush the whole chain down with 80w90 gear oil and wipe off the excess dripping, then I start up my bike put it into gear and rev it one more time to spin out any excess oil and after that I wipe the excess off the floor and tire ( usually just a small amount of drip ) and the chain maintenance ritual is complete. Some chain spray use some sort of waxy coating which will dry out when you leave it for while so there is no need to wipe the excess off or rev your bike, but I do however found out that those spray is also not very effective at preventing rust, the gear oil is my go to because it is the best for rust prevention but the down side is a bit messy that’s all there is too it. Edit: I also forgot to mention that my motorcycle use normal chain, not the fancy o ring type so it is much easier to maintain but the down side to normal chain is you had to clean it up and oil like every once a month or every 2-3 weeks or else rust will come back since dirt or water will slowly wash it off and causing dry spot that can be easily rusted. My motorcycle also sits outside as well and it is quite rainy too but gear oil works amazingly well no matter how much it rain the chain won’t rust up as long as you don’t forget to clean and reapply the oil.
In the Winter I'd oiled my chain but today it was really rusty again. Just a few rides out, the UK roads get filthy with mud, salt grit and slush. Found some gear oil, gave it a good oiling and rubbed all sides with a toothbrush.
Every one keeps mentioning different products to keep the chain from rusting, but there's another thing to consider, the coating on the chain, get one of those gold coated chains, the coating helps prevent rusting
I've lived in FL and now live in Dallas, so the weather here should be comparable. My bikes have lived inside and outside of garages. To avoid your chain rusting simply use chain cleaner (I use Motul) and the same plastic brush you had in the video (or use one that looks like a ring, I can't remember what it's called but they sell it @Revzilla here in the US), use it every time you're going to lube the chain, I clean and lube my chain every other wash, and apply some lube after (I use the same Motul you have, but the Honda stuff is also very good).
I ride an xr650l daily. As my road is a dirt road, it gets dirty fast. Easy solution is spray with degreaser, pressure wash, then dry with a leaf blower. After that, fluid film the chain. This method has consistently gotten me 6-8K miles on a chain and sprocket set
My bike is always outside too, I clean it with WD-40 and then lube it, it seems to keep it rust free well enough, but I do occasionally wipe down the links with a rag with ACF-50 on it, that will certainly prevent rust too.
My experience has been chain spray ( use your favorite) let it dry a bit then gear oil. Works very well in wet conditions. Also one has to be careful with WD-40 it deteriorate common o-rings, but works great for cleaning metal surfaces.
If you leave your bike in rain, you need to lube every week. Rust is just oxidation. Lube prevents oxidation. Lube is like paint, a barrier. Water is a sovent. Lube is the rain coat.
My dirtbike chain was rusting a lot. I was using all sorts of moto rust preventing chain lubes and some did make a difference, but not by much. Only after I saw in an old italian TE510 workshop manual that Husqvarna recommend SAE 75 (* any gear oil would work) and tried that. No rust since then
i have the same issue and i also have the same rain condition here...despite putting cover, the chain gets rusted soon... here are my findings and how find some solutions for it...: 1) never spray lube with wheel running at that speed...they dont cover the full chain properly...most of them are sprayed away...at that speed...so press it just half way, so that it dont spray in gaseous form and almost drop liquid level form and spray slowly on each links..one coat is enough... 2) Also, i noticed motul is very light lubricant, it good for performance, as it doesnt attract as much dirt than otherl lube brands or different oil, but due to its light natur, it gets easily washed away also..Hence, if you are a daily commuter, then Motul is fine, if you ride like 2-3 days once and the bike is just parked outside , then use OKS brand or other brand where the lube is more thicky , or MOTUL chain paste and then use lube over it....or you can use Gear oil as lube, its more thick and greasy, but it sticks in the chain for more longer days...
I have exactly the same bike, Gen 2, even the same colour, I've upgraded the rear shock to Ohlins and slapped on a Akrapovic full system, high recommend the comfort seat as well. My bike doesn't live outside but I've always used kerosene to clean it and chain wax to finish, I think the wax really helps to keep the water out as I have never had a rusty chain on any bike.
The problem is purely cosmetic. After cleaning and rust removal, you need to add new rust protection as the original one is worn off. Oil don't last long. Etch primer and a layer of paint might last a bit longer. Other rust treatments could also work. It might be both cheaper and easier to just replace the chain though 😊
Exactly, oil it and get on with your life, all this time spent cleaning it etc would be better spent at your work, earn plenty money with the saved time and just replace the chain and cogs regularly
It’s simple. You need to use a brass bristle brush on an angle grinder/“cup”style on the end of a drill. You should be riding a bike with a service stand like an FZ 1 so just put the bike in gear while rear tire can spin freely while you hit the chain at varying angles with the brass brush… if you’re a pleb, a large brass brush oftentimes used to scrub tires/make leather into suede can be used as well , but elbow grease is required
Chain oiller and gearbox oil. It's 1.5 years since I used a brush on my chain. The only time I clean it, is when I clean my bike at a water jet station. No rust, and the chain looks like new.
Welcome from Ireland.Clean it once a week and oil it twice(once after cleaning),and the rivets still rust🤣.Rockoil or Liquimoly is heavier/stickier and work a lot better in the rain then the Motul stuff.I wipe it on the side with an oily rag(instead of spraying the side)so it doesn't piss on the back wheel/swingarm/f*ckin everywhere👌.Then dry for the night.It didn't look too bad(after cleaning),remember what people rode in the Uk(Ireland the same)🤣👍
My bike lives outside too, has done for years now the problem is you dont treat it with acf50 or one of the other rust inhibitors. Process is simple, clean chain, wait for solvent to dry, dip that chain brush in some acf50 turn the wheel a few times, light wipe with a rag wait an hour, then add lubricant to center of the chain. Do this twice a Month in the winter once a month in summer. No rust.
I suspect you need a different chain lube. One of the main purposes of that is to prevent rust and even if your bike is outside it should do a better job than that.
Might be crazy but hear me out - what if you brush on some rust converter? might not look the best, but then again, dark-blue spots look better than rusty brown, no?
I religiously lube my chain almost every week I use a dry chain lube with PTFE 2 years of ownership, there is no rust spot, and my chain still looks brand new Though the cans of chain lube I consumed, I could have bought 3 sets of chains lol but where's the fun in that
I use a McCoi chain oiler which keeps the chain lubricated all the time. And every so often I use an oiled cloth to get the minimal dirt off the outside of the chain. Works perfectly, but of course the chain doesn't look new. However, my current chain has been on the bike for 63000 km and is still within spec 🙂
I have a cordless grinder with a wire wheel on, I cover my wheels and swing arm.and what ever else where could get damaged and gently buff away the rust, mine wasn't as bad as yours. I do not wash mine with water now and it doesn't go out in the rain of it can be helped.
Try petrol in a pressure spray bottle. Use alot of at it at first to soak the chain from all angels. Then use the regular plastic chain brush. Go multiple rounds and add petrol every while and then. Try not introduce water after that step. If you have to, then spray petrol all over the chain after drying it from water.... Take a towl and dry the chain from petrol as possible then use chain lube at the end. This method work well for me.
Great oil is proven to be superior to chain lube, especially in oxidation prevention. A little goes a long way, wipe the side plates with a soaked rag, costs significantly less as well.
Im a big(ger) fan of using chaingrease which is thicker then using lube like in a spraycan. Personally I use motul chaingrease which comes with an easy 2 use aplicator brush. With the weather in the Netherlands and so close to the sea, this is what you need to prevent rust.
As usual, your video is a good moment. If I can make a suggestion, let me tell that keeping any vehicle (or anything that is humidity sensitive) under a watertight cover is a VERY bad idea. Of course it prevents rain to fall on top of the bike. But it also keep it from drying...and it's much worse. If you don't have a proper garage to shed your bike, you can get it under a 'tent' but make sure it is very well ventilated. As a second terrible effect the "watertight plastic bag" fabric will ruin your paint if any wind makes it flaps.
You should have just asked Chatgpt for more ideas.. - Use a toothbrush and toothpaste to scrub away the rust from your motorcycle chain. This will also leave your chain minty fresh and cavity-free. - Soak your chain in a bucket of cola overnight. The acid in the cola will dissolve the rust and give your chain a nice caramel color. Bonus: you can drink the leftover cola for a caffeine boost. - Spray WD-40 on your chain and then light it on fire. The flames will burn off the rust and leave your chain shiny and smooth. Warning: do not try this at home or near flammable objects. - Rub a banana peel on your chain. The potassium in the banana peel will react with the rust and loosen it from the metal. Plus, you can eat the banana for a healthy snack. - Wrap your chain in aluminum foil and then microwave it for 10 minutes. The foil will create an electric current that will zap away the rust. Caution: this may damage your microwave and cause sparks or explosions.
for an "everyday bike" I'd recommend a chain oiler. at least here in germany oil seems to work better than the canned stuff, however you have to apply it veeery frequently, hence the automatic oiler. apart from that, uk is famous for it's rain, so good luck keeping the rust away :D btw: even if very few, there are even some biodegradable options out there
Clean your chain with GT85 and a chain brush, (plastic) Then put ACF 50 on the chain and rub it in. Then, use a chain lube. I would recommend on your bike castrol sports bike lube. ( less fling) The ACF 50 will remove some rust and also prevent more long term. The Chain lube locks all of the ACF50 underneath. This formula has worked for me for 10yrs.. plus don't use chain cleaners or wire brushes. Chain cleaner can remove to much, cleaning with GT 85 will not only clean the chain, but it gets into all the areas you can't see.
You’re chain is still good. Although I would stop rinsing it with water and the pressure washer. I clean my chain once a year on my CBR1000RR and I do around 50,000 kms per chain. I am on my second with 102,000 kms on the bike. Best of luck to you. Love your videos.
@@akizuki2971 Canada. I could clean it all the time too if I chose to, but when you think that I pull a good 50,000 Kms out of a 530 chain on a litre sportbike, I figure there’s no need to be so meticulous. You have to remember that lubing an o-ring chain only lubes the outside rollers and not much else. Even cleaning it all the time could be more harmful in the long run for the rubber than just leaving it alone. I have multiple machines in my yard for work, some of them running with chains that spin pretty quickly, and when I need to do periodic lubing or greasing, I don’t start by removing all the previous (and precious) grease that is already in place. 🤷🏻 I think this whole chain cleaning thing got blown out of proportion somewhere down the road. It’s just a matter of how clean you want your bike to look I guess. 🤷🏻
@@gerrycout7845 no I mean my chain will rust super quickly and become really stiff if I don’t clean it… it did get a little better when I swapped out the OEM one for a gold coloured one (guessing whatever they coated it with is more resistant)
Yes, it is true that “gold” plated chains will not rust as quickly as regular chains but I never bothered with those. I use regular o-ring RK chains but with a “gold” master link. I like to be able to spot the master link quickly during inspection and it also helps when I am lubing to count the turns. I will say that I don’t ride in the rain much if at all. Maybe get caught once or twice a season if that. And if I do, that is when I will be meticulous with lubing but I don’t clean (only once in the spring do I clean). If I had to ride for a few hours in the rain, then as soon as I get home, I will spray WD-40 all over the chain. Then maybe lube it up with 80W90 gear oil (very messy on the first ride out after that). But I still won’t clean the chain. But under normal circumstances, dry riding, I always lube with Maxima chain wax, every ride. I never clean during the season. In the fall, before putting the bike away in my enclosed trailer outside, I will butter up the chain with 80W90 gear oil using an old toothbrush to get the oil spread all over. I have noticed that if I just leave it with the wax over the winter, I will have rust on the chain come spring. With the gear oil, no issue. And still no cleaning. Now, come spring, I get the bike out and give the chain a nice cleaning (the only time I will clean) to remove as much of that gear oil as possible before going for a short ride. When I come back, I spray the chain wax and that’s all. All season. Unless I ride in the rain like previously stated. I never have rust on the chain during the summer months. The bike is stored inside though. Outdoors could be a different story. The absolute WORST thing you can put a chain through is to use a pressure washer on it to wash it. Almost guaranteed you will push water past the o-ring seals. My buddy used to do that on his bike… he would change chain once a year. I always keep water away from my chain even while washing the bike itself. But I agree that if you live close to the ocean and store the bike outside, you may need to be more careful with lubing. But I don’t think cleaning the chain is what keeps it from rusting. The name of the game is LUBE. Good luck.
You scare me with your story, a chain on a sports bike you can only use for 30.000 max, between 20.000 and 30.000 it will break, also after 30.000 your sprockets will be gone . How do you ride with your bike ?
When the rain clean the lubrication and the oxidation process starts it eats the protection layer of the chain, then there's no way back. Ambient humidity is enough to oxidates the chain again, just like the brake rotors when we leave it wet.
I use chainsaw bar oil mixed with whatever I have lying around. This could be gear oil, engine oil even fork oil. The chainsaw oil is a bit too thick to paint on neat, the other oil is just to allow it to flow a little. Does still fling all over the wheel rim, but not as much as gear oil. The chainsaw oil has the benefit of being really quite cheap.
From the very first day of chain cleaning use WD40. It's an absolute rust killer and slight lubricant too. Also you can easily peel off sticker residual glue with it. And not to mention the squeeky parts like a door hinge. So one solution to many problems. Pretty handy.
@@vervok the chemical make up of WD-40, is almost identical to kerosene with a few additives. It will not hurt your O-rings. The only thing it will do is attract more dirt to stick to the chain, which then can affect your O-rings. If this was the case, any chain cleaner that removes grease with any kind of detergent or acidic chemicals would ruin the chain… that is basically every single chain cleaner commercially available. Most people just use carb or brake cleaner.. and that is 100 times more harsh than WD-40. I would not recommend WD-40 as a total chain cleaner, but it works in between very well. You just don’t want to saturate it. I use WD-40 all the time lightly on a rag and just run it across the chain to clean off the debris after a ride and I’ve been doing it for well over 20 years. I’d beat the absolute snot out of my bikes clutch wheelies…track days.. clutchless shifting..all kinds of stuff and even on cheap chain I still get well over 15 to 20,000 miles on liter bike.
@poonchild you don't Need to lube a chain we do 60k mikes on unlubed chains. The lube is inside the orings which are sealed unless you take the orings apart and re greased them or have a non oring chain. If you do grease or oil them it just collect dirt and you may think you are greasing the rollers. Go on a 1000 mile trip and see how much grease or oil is on the rollers. Wd 40 is not kerosene based but a good cleaner. That's all.i use clean the chain and go on your way. No need to grease it. Or clean with kerosene or diesel and leave it.
It's definitely living outside that does it. My bike is under a tarp and a bike cover, but still gets a rusty chain. Recently it had a nasty oil leak that got all over the rear wheel for weeks, and the chain still rusted! I find removing it, soaking/scrubbing with a toothbrush in a pan of petrol (it's not an o ring one), hanging it up to dry and then coating it inside and out with chain lube does the trick, but it's a pain so only happens when I'm off the road anyway.
My 1978 T140V has the old style non o-ring chain, and you can't beat the old-fashioned chain wax, which you heat up on the stove and immerse the chain in, then hang it up to drain. Lasts for months after that. Never jetwash a bike, though, water gets in all sorts of places it shouldn't be.
I use 80w90 gear oil. very affordable and not wash-off if I ride in the rain (I live in malaysia, we get raining atleast once a week). different with motorcycle oil. motorcycle oil get wash-off in the rain, even you just parked your motorcycle. i has been tried before. my chain get rusty. before this, my chain plate like zig zag (maybe o-ring stuck or too dry. i use white lithium grease and normal chainlube bought from hardware store before). I clean the chain then apply gear oil every 50km. now my chain look good, no more zig zag chain plate. now I just need to lube my chain every 500km but before I lube my chain, I clean my chain from old lube with kitchen towel or old rags. very easy to clean compared if I use chainlube. every 2000km, I clean my chain with kerosene and soap before rinse with water.
Keep it simple! Water and metal don't play well together! I wash my bike, take a quick spin around the block to dry it and dry the chain and warm up the chain. Then I clean the chain with diesel...! Best cleaner ever! It has oil in it to prevent rust! It dries up quick! and Cleans very well... Also gets rid of moisture! Which is a good thing! Then to lube, I use simple cheap gear oil (aka final drive oil) 80W90. Just moved to castrol gear oil now also.... Yes it's a bit messy, but you don't soak the chain in and it gets sucked up into the chain bits to keep everything nice and lubed. When I'm all done, I run the bike on the stand in 3rd so the excess oil flies off. Let it sit overnight. Final quick wipe the next day and chain is still gold and shiny, even after almost 20000kms! And no dry links either! Old school methods are tried and tested over the years. Keep it cheap and keep it simple!
Hey, I live in the UK and it rains almost every day. A chain oiler is the best way to keep the chain lubricated all the time with minimum effort. Just clean it once a week to get rid of the grime and the chain oiler keeps it lubed the rest of the time. Good video.
I clean and lube the chain religiously every 400 miles on my ZX14R. I hate to say this, but the Motul lubricant is the one that doesn't keep the chain rust-free even for 400 miles. My chain shows sections of rust after 300 miles. But when I use wax-based lubricants, I get no rusty sections at all for the full 400 or so miles until I clean and the chain again. Hence, sometimes a big name just doesn't do it, too. Just my 2 cents...
I would suggest you to use ceramic chain lube from kawasaki try it best in the rainy season also that's for a long ride if you ride your motorcycle daily then I would suggest gear oil but it won't be good in the rainy season but it will help the chain to keep out of rust
a lot of chain lube is not oil or grease it just slightly lubricates the chain. either buy a plated chain or use spray grease but all the knobs do not like a bit of grease on the wheels. bless
My bike lives outside too, but without a cover, and no rust on the chain. I clean it only with a regular chain brush. I lube it maybe once or twice every couple of months. I've been using Bel-Ray lube for quite a while now (no specific reason) so perhaps that's something? 🤷I also go for a ride after the wash and before lubing the chain, which may dry the chain better, and I've also seen some manufacturers recommend applying the lube to a warm chain so that might be another thing.
I just use a dish scouring pad and kerosene to clean my rusty chain. In the winter I apply a tin layer of ACF50 anti corrosion spray followed by a wet lube. In the summer I use Wurth’s dry lube. Best way to keep a chain in good condition is regular maintenance.😄
Some people recommend to clean the chain with methylated spirits, apply a small amount of ACF50 and let stay for a day, dry with a cloth and apply the grease, not sure if works after the chain has been damaged but I know for fact that by using acf50 he will prevent the rust 😮
In the user manual that came with my motorcycle, it says to lubricate the chain with 80w90 oil ... once my chain picked up a little rust and since I lubricated it with the oil and stopped using sprays, the rust has never appeared again.
2:00 you should put some cardboard behind the chain to cover tire, a bit of that lube oil gonna be on rear tire, can be slippery easy... Like the video otherwise... Ride safe ✌️
Since I bought a shaft drive motorcycle, I don't think I'll ever buy a chain drive again! Just the fact that I can finally have white wall tires, not to mention the lack of maintenance required, is enough to outweigh the power it eats away.
My bike is 18 years old, has lived most of its life outdoors and near the sea and still has the original chain in excellent condition, the secret? I don't know but I've always avoided washing or cleaning it, when I wash the bike I avoid the chain as much as possible. I have only ever used motor oil to lubricate it and no other products.
White lightning Co "Clean Ride" Self cleaning chain lube for MTB used for motorcycle Acf50 spray is anti-corrosion Also spot on thin film last 12 month +
Good video but I'd recommend better shampoo first for whole bike eg. Bilt Lambert. Then decent cleaner - kerosene. No need for WD-40 which just gets in everywhere and does not allow chain lube to stay. Bilt Lambert does some wicked rust removers too and I think product called Surfex HD for stubborn dirt wash. Last but not least - ACF50 for whole bike rust protection.
The oil the you put on the chain is for this exact reason. Add a thicker coat (hopefully with a brush, like motomul). My bike is outside all year without any issues. After washing it and drying off the chain, you could ride it for a bit to have it super dry a hot. In this way no water dropplets will be trapped under the oil you put on it and the oil will stick to the hot chain better.
I live in a tropical country with an average rainfall of about 3000mm(in my region) and have my bike parked outside but I've almost never had rusty chains. I use WD-40 to clean the chain once a month and then lube it with ep90 gear oil it's cheap and works so well! Maybe you should try gear oil on your bike's chain for some time and see if it improves the rust situation.
I've tried multiple chain lubes to stop rusting, and for me I find that giving the chain a quick once over after a ride with GT85 on a rag is working the best for stopping rust, 14000 miles and 6 years old and the chain still looks brand new
Teflon
Throwback to FortNine's video on chain lubricants - I found the Maxima Chain Wax to be the best at preventing chain rust, and this was one of his findings in his video as well. Cleaning the chain well is one thing, but a lubricant suited to your environment is another. I live in a rainy city near the ocean, and find it suits me well here. Others in dryer climates may benefit from other products. Maybe you will have better luck trying a few chain lubes out!
I had the same problem on my Mt-07. There isn't much rain, but I live 150m away from the beach. So the air is very salty. The standard DID chain used to rust very quickly. Even though I never rode it in the rain. But the gold plated one did not rust once. I have 15000kms with the chain so far. Model: D.I.D 525VX3
I like their chain wax a lot. I’ve tried a few different products but hate how most fling off onto rear tires etc.
oh yeah, if you apply the wax when the chains hot like youre supposed to that stuff really sticks, of course it flings a little at first but once it settles its on there good. have tried others in the absolute variety bag of weather that is chicago and none hold up as good or as long
I use gear oil. Pretty good tbh, last 2 weeks. I live in Singapore wet/humid weather
@@boomblab23 gonna try this one I live in Ph which is same environment
I have a recommendation for people with the same problem, use lube from Motul the c4 factory line because it leaves a layer that is sticky that keeps away dirt and water( don't be afraid to use a good amount, obviously don't use too much but aply a decent layer don't be cheap with it )+ if you have the possibility to buy a new chain or when you are forced to buy a new one get a brass plated one because brass doesn't rust . Hope it helps
My 09 also sits outside under a cover and I recently switched to gear oil on the chain which kept the rust off even with all that rain we had. Brits love that shiyt on their chains. I use a small paint brush to get the whole chain coated well in a thin layer of oil.
ive just got mine in the garage after sitting out 3 years. now the cleaning begins
I use a paintbrush and gear oil as well. Seems like a no brainer and am surprised more people don't do that.
@@Peanutdinos3000Been a year now and gear oil is so much easier to clean off the chain, no rust and all the links are in perfect condition after 10 000km. Will never use a chain wax or chain lube again. Stuff is cheap and works well at also keeping crap off the chain. All the other products and big brands I have used accumulate a thick nasty grease on the chain guide and around the inside of the front sprocket housing.
@@bulldogwoof6954 Does it not get flinged off at speed?
Will I just wipe it after application or what's the best way..?
Cheers
@@NoName-is6pygood question
Gearbox oil painted onto the chain... yes it's high fling, and needs toping back up regularly, but works wonders. Alternatively a properly set up scotoiller system. If ur riding regularly enough the coating will stay topped up and the moisture will stay away.
Thank you so much for this honest video. Much more helpful than these videos of people cleaning an already clean chain!!!
Yeah its MUCH better to let it get to this state lol
According to Kawasaki user manual, chain should be cleaned with kerosene (I use a microfiber rag), then oiled with 10W40 transmission oil (here another rag for thoroughly coating it).
Takes a bit of time, but it's inexpensive and probably the most effective. I honestly cringe at all the sparkling fancy chain cleaner and lube, and the brush you showed is really good at spraying dirt around but less so in cleaning.
My bike sits outside, we have a lot less rain, but I left the chain unattended for months. Recently I saw it rusty and cleaned it as explained, came out as shiny as before.
Everyone, stop wasting money on the most expensive/marketed stuff, cleaning a piece of metal is no rocket science.
The point is that the engine oil will fling around like crazy, and it will be an absolute nightmare when cleaning your sprocket afterwards.
I've tried and decided that it's not for me.
My triumph manual says the same thing but it looks like D.I.D have change the formula of their O/X rings and now have a massive warning on their site saying not to use anything paraffin based (which is what kerosene is)
Motorcycle manufacturers have been stating in their manuals for 40 years to use kerosene as a chain cleaner (which is what commercial spray chain cleaners are with a scent modifier added). Kerosene cleans, lubes and is safe on O & X rings.
Kerosine will reach through rings and wash factory lube. So the whole idea is you need a tiny bit of protection for the outside of rings no more that that.
another EXCELLENT VIDEO.! I am watching from Canada
We have Winter for 6 months a year, I take my whole chain off and keep it in a pale of oil
I put a length-wise cut rubber hose over the exposed chain to help protect from the rain
Man I just love the information and story-telling of this channel. You can make a relatively small topic fun, and interesting to watch!
All 3 of my bikes live outside and I have learnt that to prevent rust I apply a thin coating of ACF50 after washing and drying the chain. Then apply chain wax/lube to it like normal. The ACF50 won't damage the O rings but it will prevent rust. I apply ACF50 to my shocks and other bare metal components and they look brand new even after years.
Never water blast your chain. Clean chain about twice a year with Kero. I use heavy duty gearbox oil. In garage, no rust.
I have a lot of experience for rain riding and parking a bike outside without a cover.
My advice is to use a thick oil. I personally use gear oil but there are other options that are cleaner.
My bike lives outside too. Use gear oil instead of chain spray... Get an oiler, even small plastic flasks with a nozzle will do. One drop per link every 300kms on the MT-09 (or install a chain oiler). Less grime, little to zero rust, less chain noise.
I think chain spray might be too thin for a daily bike lives outside. Some delivery bikes even use grease on their chain.
Make sure its E.P .( Extreme Pressure)
Gear Oil
I've found that white lithium grease spray works great as a chain lube over longer periods. It seems to be closer to the lubricant that comes on the chain originally but cleanup requires some extra work.
white chain spray is always nice ive using 1 from S100. You can really see a bit of white liquid on your chain and easily check if you need to lube your chain or not. The Spray is really sticky tho so it wont get on your rims but that means your chain is harder to clean...👍
@esemceX been riding pretty much every day of my adult life. It works better than wax.
Grease does collect grit but it doesn't seem to be an issue as long as the chain is cleaned.
Using my bike as a daily driver is tough on the chain and I can't do this all the time.
grease works best in these cases. I should add that a little wd-40 can help clean the grit in between chain care.
@@SkadooHusky wd-40 damages the seals tho... Proven by fortnine
claen up is breeze if you get wd 40 and spray rag and wipe it all down any grease or lube you see is useless to chain. WD 40 removes it and leaves water dispersant film on outer chain as rust inhibitor and wd40 cleans any gooey sticky crap great and removed chain sling off wheels easy. and off any surface and does not harm any plastic metal or painted surface, wd40 is water dispersant though NOT A LUBE it cleans lube never spray on chain spray on rag and wipe outside of chain only to clean and protect
Lithium sprays and bikes its a very bad idea, be very carefull where you use it because the damage from Lithium its not reversable!
Best advise i can give as a fellow SA Biker who’s bike had to overnight outside in the elements, clean your chain with parafin/kerosine and for winter, use chain wax, the blue can. It leaves a thick white layer over your chain and is more protective during winter with the rain, also remember to lube less than every 5k km during winter if you ride in the rain. When cleaning, dont use the high pressure washer on your chain, kerosine and the chain brush, then rinse off with hot dishwashing water(sunlight liquid) to rinse the kerosine off, then dry and immediately lube the chain. Park the bike for at least 12-24 hrs so the lube will set sufficiently before riding again.
You can thank me by continuing to produce such great content my man 😅
Am I the only one who think that the old blue and orange logo was much better than this one?
Should we start a petition?
@@ChaosCauses yes
You're not alone, but what does it matter? These videos are always high quality and entertaining
@@ChaosCauses man I thought it's an different channel just by looking at that logo
@@ChaosCauses The content is as higj quality as ever, although the orange and blue was iconic. With the new logo there isnt really any colour signature to the channel
Here in India I use Diesel and it cleans up the rust pretty nicely.
Plus the motul c2 is not recommended for monsoon and tropical weather i once read the label on the back. Motul if I am not wrong recommend c3 for that.
I personally use gear oil to lube and it always works.
I have never had a chain rust in 40 years of daily street riding; street long distance touring (weeks at a time) where is would be parked outside at a hotel, motel over night rain or dry; off-road riding and racing motorcycles.
Motorcycle manufacturers have been stating in their manuals for 40 years to use kerosene as a chain cleaner (which is what commercial spray chain cleaners are with a scent modifier added). Kerosene cleans, lubes and is safe on O & X rings.
If the chain is dry and not full of mud a dry spray teflon type lube will protect the chain from water and thus rust; and will not attract dirt, road grim,...nor fling off.
I know many off-road riders, myself included that use this as our lube for off-road bikes as the sticky lubes just turn into a grindng compound with the accumulated dirt, sand,...and add to wearing the chain and sprockets.
Remember the rust you see on the outside of the outer plate is only a % of the rust on the chain when you consider the inner side of that plate & the other plate (with 2 sides) on the other side of the chain.
After a ride I will dry the chain with a rag or let the bike idle in gear for a minute or so with the rear wheel off the ground so centrifugal force of the wheel and chain going in their circles drives out the water and moisture. Then I immediately apply some sort of coating, a spray lube or gear oil.
Hey man, you never use WD40 on an Oring chain as it will seep behind the rubber Orings & make the inner grease turn to liquid which will seep back out of the Orings. I recently sold my 2016 MT07 & after 8 years of continued use my chain remained practical like new! How I managed that, considering I never wiped, brushed, sprayed or cleaned it, was by fitting a Vacuum Scotoiler system to the bike. These things work brilliantly, but they are expensive these days. So my new bike is going to be fitted with a Nero 2 manual chain oiler which works in the exact same way, but they make less mess to the rear wheel & they are much cheaper to buy. I'll still use the Scotoiler oil in the Nero 2 as that's what kept my MT07 chain in perfect condition for the 8 years I had it, from new!
Once the anti rust coating is damaged, there is nothing you can do anymore. The only way is to add the coating back which means new chain. You can try some darker color chain grease like Maxima Chain Wax which will hide the rust a bit better. Ultimately, if your bike sits outside, I would make sure you coat the whole chain in chain grease, not just the rollers.
Green scourer also works instead of wire wool. I've been lubricating my chain with gear oil and that works fine. But for that much rain, perhaps a chain wax would be better at stopping the water from contacting the metal.
at the end of the day it comes down to what enviroment you ride in. i live in Scotland, rains most of the year, in winter they grit the roads, most cars 8 years old and over are covered in rust underneath as the grit/salt sticks to the bottom and doesnt get washed very often and eats away at the metal.
i ride a kawasaki 650 versys, it has 11k miles, its stored outside but not under a cover, my step dad was into bikes and classic cars, he said if i keep it under a cover, open it to air it after the rain as the condensation builds up under the cover.
currently my chain is in good condition after 11k miles, even some rides in winter weather, but at last service i got told off by mechanic for oiling it too much.
Used gear oil and a weekly wipe down with WD40 for years, the spray on lubricants in a can are a waste of money, they also attract a lot of dirt. You don’t need a lot of oil or lubricants with modern chains unless you enjoy cleaning wheels and tyres😉
I used a rotary wire brush in power drill. Gets it super clean and shiny. You could also wipe on some rust converter (if you want to). Just use a nice white lithium lube; and ride it like you stole it (safely) !!!. Enjoy.
My way of preventing rust was whenever I clean my motorcycle, I also cleaned the chain too while using steel brush to scrub out any rust in the process of washing my bike ( usually hardly any rust but I do it mostly to clean up the old oil ). Then I dried my motorcycle up and clean the chain one more time with any sort of solvent like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol to pull out excess water stuck within the chain link which causing the water to be mix up with the solvent and completely evaporate off very quickly, when the solvent is all dried up which will took probably 2-3mins and only then is when I will use a dry tooth brush and lightly brush the whole chain down with 80w90 gear oil and wipe off the excess dripping, then I start up my bike put it into gear and rev it one more time to spin out any excess oil and after that I wipe the excess off the floor and tire ( usually just a small amount of drip ) and the chain maintenance ritual is complete. Some chain spray use some sort of waxy coating which will dry out when you leave it for while so there is no need to wipe the excess off or rev your bike, but I do however found out that those spray is also not very effective at preventing rust, the gear oil is my go to because it is the best for rust prevention but the down side is a bit messy that’s all there is too it.
Edit: I also forgot to mention that my motorcycle use normal chain, not the fancy o ring type so it is much easier to maintain but the down side to normal chain is you had to clean it up and oil like every once a month or every 2-3 weeks or else rust will come back since dirt or water will slowly wash it off and causing dry spot that can be easily rusted. My motorcycle also sits outside as well and it is quite rainy too but gear oil works amazingly well no matter how much it rain the chain won’t rust up as long as you don’t forget to clean and reapply the oil.
In the Winter I'd oiled my chain but today it was really rusty again. Just a few rides out, the UK roads get filthy with mud, salt grit and slush.
Found some gear oil, gave it a good oiling and rubbed all sides with a toothbrush.
Every one keeps mentioning different products to keep the chain from rusting, but there's another thing to consider, the coating on the chain, get one of those gold coated chains, the coating helps prevent rusting
I've lived in FL and now live in Dallas, so the weather here should be comparable. My bikes have lived inside and outside of garages. To avoid your chain rusting simply use chain cleaner (I use Motul) and the same plastic brush you had in the video (or use one that looks like a ring, I can't remember what it's called but they sell it @Revzilla here in the US), use it every time you're going to lube the chain, I clean and lube my chain every other wash, and apply some lube after (I use the same Motul you have, but the Honda stuff is also very good).
I ride an xr650l daily. As my road is a dirt road, it gets dirty fast. Easy solution is spray with degreaser, pressure wash, then dry with a leaf blower. After that, fluid film the chain.
This method has consistently gotten me 6-8K miles on a chain and sprocket set
A brass wire wheel on an angle grinder would clean the sides of this chain up real quick and at least makes the whole surface more uniform!
My bike is always outside too, I clean it with WD-40 and then lube it, it seems to keep it rust free well enough, but I do occasionally wipe down the links with a rag with ACF-50 on it, that will certainly prevent rust too.
Thanks 👍
I have used gearbox oil for over 40 years, and never had a problem!
My experience has been chain spray ( use your favorite) let it dry a bit then gear oil. Works very well in wet conditions.
Also one has to be careful with WD-40 it deteriorate common o-rings, but works great for cleaning metal surfaces.
That’s a complete myth.
If you leave your bike in rain, you need to lube every week. Rust is just oxidation. Lube prevents oxidation. Lube is like paint, a barrier. Water is a sovent. Lube is the rain coat.
There is a rust remover called Break Free that works like magic. I use it on my tools, and it melts all the rust away instantly.
Evapo-Rust is also an excellent rust remover. Bonus that its pH is 6, so nearly neutral.
Diesel is the solution and very safe in the o-ring chain.
get a D.I.D Gold Chain or an RK Gold Chain next time. It has a plating that doesn't allow build rust up easily
My dirtbike chain was rusting a lot. I was using all sorts of moto rust preventing chain lubes and some did make a difference, but not by much. Only after I saw in an old italian TE510 workshop manual that Husqvarna recommend SAE 75 (* any gear oil would work) and tried that. No rust since then
i have the same issue and i also have the same rain condition here...despite putting cover, the chain gets rusted soon... here are my findings and how find some solutions for it...:
1) never spray lube with wheel running at that speed...they dont cover the full chain properly...most of them are sprayed away...at that speed...so press it just half way, so that it dont spray in gaseous form and almost drop liquid level form and spray slowly on each links..one coat is enough...
2) Also, i noticed motul is very light lubricant, it good for performance, as it doesnt attract as much dirt than otherl lube brands or different oil, but due to its light natur, it gets easily washed away also..Hence, if you are a daily commuter, then Motul is fine, if you ride like 2-3 days once and the bike is just parked outside , then use OKS brand or other brand where the lube is more thicky , or MOTUL chain paste and then use lube over it....or you can use Gear oil as lube, its more thick and greasy, but it sticks in the chain for more longer days...
I have exactly the same bike, Gen 2, even the same colour, I've upgraded the rear shock to Ohlins and slapped on a Akrapovic full system, high recommend the comfort seat as well.
My bike doesn't live outside but I've always used kerosene to clean it and chain wax to finish, I think the wax really helps to keep the water out as I have never had a rusty chain on any bike.
The problem is purely cosmetic. After cleaning and rust removal, you need to add new rust protection as the original one is worn off. Oil don't last long. Etch primer and a layer of paint might last a bit longer. Other rust treatments could also work. It might be both cheaper and easier to just replace the chain though 😊
Exactly, oil it and get on with your life, all this time spent cleaning it etc would be better spent at your work, earn plenty money with the saved time and just replace the chain and cogs regularly
Did you say paint the chain🤨
@@tylerharrington4515The rest of the comment was on point, but painting it really threw me lol
It’s simple. You need to use a brass bristle brush on an angle grinder/“cup”style on the end of a drill. You should be riding a bike with a service stand like an FZ 1 so just put the bike in gear while rear tire can spin freely while you hit the chain at varying angles with the brass brush… if you’re a pleb, a large brass brush oftentimes used to scrub tires/make leather into suede can be used as well , but elbow grease is required
Chain oiller and gearbox oil. It's 1.5 years since I used a brush on my chain. The only time I clean it, is when I clean my bike at a water jet station. No rust, and the chain looks like new.
Welcome from Ireland.Clean it once a week and oil it twice(once after cleaning),and the rivets still rust🤣.Rockoil or Liquimoly is heavier/stickier and work a lot better in the rain then the Motul stuff.I wipe it on the side with an oily rag(instead of spraying the side)so it doesn't piss on the back wheel/swingarm/f*ckin everywhere👌.Then dry for the night.It didn't look too bad(after cleaning),remember what people rode in the Uk(Ireland the same)🤣👍
My bike lives outside too, has done for years now the problem is you dont treat it with acf50 or one of the other rust inhibitors. Process is simple, clean chain, wait for solvent to dry, dip that chain brush in some acf50 turn the wheel a few times, light wipe with a rag wait an hour, then add lubricant to center of the chain. Do this twice a Month in the winter once a month in summer. No rust.
I suspect you need a different chain lube. One of the main purposes of that is to prevent rust and even if your bike is outside it should do a better job than that.
or a better lube AND cleaner.
My chain looks similar to yours, I use rotary tool with steel brush attachment. Improved a lot.
Might be crazy but hear me out - what if you brush on some rust converter? might not look the best, but then again, dark-blue spots look better than rusty brown, no?
I religiously lube my chain almost every week
I use a dry chain lube with PTFE
2 years of ownership, there is no rust spot, and my chain still looks brand new
Though the cans of chain lube I consumed, I could have bought 3 sets of chains lol but where's the fun in that
My *R7* chain is exactly the same after 1,800 miles from new. I’ve upgraded to. DID chain now ⛓️
I use a McCoi chain oiler which keeps the chain lubricated all the time. And every so often I use an oiled cloth to get the minimal dirt off the outside of the chain. Works perfectly, but of course the chain doesn't look new. However, my current chain has been on the bike for 63000 km and is still within spec 🙂
I have a cordless grinder with a wire wheel on, I cover my wheels and swing arm.and what ever else where could get damaged and gently buff away the rust, mine wasn't as bad as yours. I do not wash mine with water now and it doesn't go out in the rain of it can be helped.
Try petrol in a pressure spray bottle. Use alot of at it at first to soak the chain from all angels. Then use the regular plastic chain brush. Go multiple rounds and add petrol every while and then. Try not introduce water after that step. If you have to, then spray petrol all over the chain after drying it from water.... Take a towl and dry the chain from petrol as possible then use chain lube at the end. This method work well for me.
Great oil is proven to be superior to chain lube, especially in oxidation prevention. A little goes a long way, wipe the side plates with a soaked rag, costs significantly less as well.
Im a big(ger) fan of using chaingrease which is thicker then using lube like in a spraycan. Personally I use motul chaingrease which comes with an easy 2 use aplicator brush. With the weather in the Netherlands and so close to the sea, this is what you need to prevent rust.
If you regularely cover the chain not only on the rollers but also on the sides wirh Chain lube it will prevent rust pretty well.
I used a dremel with a little wire brush attachment. No more rust!
Scotch brite works a treat
5.33 finally he is onto it,light is on ,That my boy is how we roll😮😮😮
i just took some WD40 and a standard chain brush to it and had a completely rust ridden chain look brand new in like 10minutes
As usual, your video is a good moment. If I can make a suggestion, let me tell that keeping any vehicle (or anything that is humidity sensitive) under a watertight cover is a VERY bad idea. Of course it prevents rain to fall on top of the bike. But it also keep it from drying...and it's much worse.
If you don't have a proper garage to shed your bike, you can get it under a 'tent' but make sure it is very well ventilated. As a second terrible effect the "watertight plastic bag" fabric will ruin your paint if any wind makes it flaps.
You should have just asked Chatgpt for more ideas..
- Use a toothbrush and toothpaste to scrub away the rust from your motorcycle chain. This will also leave your chain minty fresh and cavity-free.
- Soak your chain in a bucket of cola overnight. The acid in the cola will dissolve the rust and give your chain a nice caramel color. Bonus: you can drink the leftover cola for a caffeine boost.
- Spray WD-40 on your chain and then light it on fire. The flames will burn off the rust and leave your chain shiny and smooth. Warning: do not try this at home or near flammable objects.
- Rub a banana peel on your chain. The potassium in the banana peel will react with the rust and loosen it from the metal. Plus, you can eat the banana for a healthy snack.
- Wrap your chain in aluminum foil and then microwave it for 10 minutes. The foil will create an electric current that will zap away the rust. Caution: this may damage your microwave and cause sparks or explosions.
All that shit good for bicycle chains, but for motorcycles ones, it will break appart the rings
for an "everyday bike" I'd recommend a chain oiler. at least here in germany oil seems to work better than the canned stuff, however you have to apply it veeery frequently, hence the automatic oiler. apart from that, uk is famous for it's rain, so good luck keeping the rust away :D
btw: even if very few, there are even some biodegradable options out there
Hi Janosh, do you use biodegradeable oil? Do you recommend one? Thanks!
Clean your chain with GT85 and a chain brush, (plastic) Then put ACF 50 on the chain and rub it in. Then, use a chain lube. I would recommend on your bike castrol sports bike lube. ( less fling) The ACF 50 will remove some rust and also prevent more long term. The Chain lube locks all of the ACF50 underneath. This formula has worked for me for 10yrs.. plus don't use chain cleaners or wire brushes. Chain cleaner can remove to much, cleaning with GT 85 will not only clean the chain, but it gets into all the areas you can't see.
You’re chain is still good. Although I would stop rinsing it with water and the pressure washer.
I clean my chain once a year on my CBR1000RR and I do around 50,000 kms per chain. I am on my second with 102,000 kms on the bike.
Best of luck to you. Love your videos.
Man where do you live that you can clean it just once a year? Here in Ireland I have to clean my once a week, though I do ride it almost everyday
@@akizuki2971 Canada. I could clean it all the time too if I chose to, but when you think that I pull a good 50,000 Kms out of a 530 chain on a litre sportbike, I figure there’s no need to be so meticulous.
You have to remember that lubing an o-ring chain only lubes the outside rollers and not much else. Even cleaning it all the time could be more harmful in the long run for the rubber than just leaving it alone.
I have multiple machines in my yard for work, some of them running with chains that spin pretty quickly, and when I need to do periodic lubing or greasing, I don’t start by removing all the previous (and precious) grease that is already in place. 🤷🏻
I think this whole chain cleaning thing got blown out of proportion somewhere down the road.
It’s just a matter of how clean you want your bike to look I guess. 🤷🏻
@@gerrycout7845 no I mean my chain will rust super quickly and become really stiff if I don’t clean it… it did get a little better when I swapped out the OEM one for a gold coloured one (guessing whatever they coated it with is more resistant)
Yes, it is true that “gold” plated chains will not rust as quickly as regular chains but I never bothered with those.
I use regular o-ring RK chains but with a “gold” master link. I like to be able to spot the master link quickly during inspection and it also helps when I am lubing to count the turns.
I will say that I don’t ride in the rain much if at all. Maybe get caught once or twice a season if that. And if I do, that is when I will be meticulous with lubing but I don’t clean (only once in the spring do I clean).
If I had to ride for a few hours in the rain, then as soon as I get home, I will spray WD-40 all over the chain. Then maybe lube it up with 80W90 gear oil (very messy on the first ride out after that). But I still won’t clean the chain.
But under normal circumstances, dry riding, I always lube with Maxima chain wax, every ride. I never clean during the season.
In the fall, before putting the bike away in my enclosed trailer outside, I will butter up the chain with 80W90 gear oil using an old toothbrush to get the oil spread all over. I have noticed that if I just leave it with the wax over the winter, I will have rust on the chain come spring. With the gear oil, no issue. And still no cleaning.
Now, come spring, I get the bike out and give the chain a nice cleaning (the only time I will clean) to remove as much of that gear oil as possible before going for a short ride. When I come back, I spray the chain wax and that’s all. All season. Unless I ride in the rain like previously stated.
I never have rust on the chain during the summer months.
The bike is stored inside though. Outdoors could be a different story.
The absolute WORST thing you can put a chain through is to use a pressure washer on it to wash it. Almost guaranteed you will push water past the o-ring seals. My buddy used to do that on his bike… he would change chain once a year.
I always keep water away from my chain even while washing the bike itself.
But I agree that if you live close to the ocean and store the bike outside, you may need to be more careful with lubing. But I don’t think cleaning the chain is what keeps it from rusting. The name of the game is LUBE.
Good luck.
You scare me with your story, a chain on a sports bike you can only use for 30.000 max, between 20.000 and 30.000 it will break, also after 30.000 your sprockets will be gone . How do you ride with your bike ?
Vinegar works like a charm.
When the rain clean the lubrication and the oxidation process starts it eats the protection layer of the chain, then there's no way back. Ambient humidity is enough to oxidates the chain again, just like the brake rotors when we leave it wet.
I ride my bike daily here in Malaysia. And here as it is a tropical country, it practically rains cats and dogs daily. I do have some rust on my chain
New logo is 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Use gear oil for lubrifiant for the chain
FYI, DId chains are like that! Happened to me as well, went with a cheaper option and never had rust issues again.
I use chainsaw bar oil mixed with whatever I have lying around. This could be gear oil, engine oil even fork oil. The chainsaw oil is a bit too thick to paint on neat, the other oil is just to allow it to flow a little. Does still fling all over the wheel rim, but not as much as gear oil. The chainsaw oil has the benefit of being really quite cheap.
From the very first day of chain cleaning use WD40. It's an absolute rust killer and slight lubricant too. Also you can easily peel off sticker residual glue with it. And not to mention the squeeky parts like a door hinge. So one solution to many problems. Pretty handy.
Don't clean your chain with WD40 it messes up the o-rings.
@@vervok lol no it doesn’t. Wd40 is just kerosene.. and many people use kerosene clean chains. It’s an absolutely terrible lubricant though
@@vervok the chemical make up of WD-40, is almost identical to kerosene with a few additives. It will not hurt your O-rings. The only thing it will do is attract more dirt to stick to the chain, which then can affect your O-rings. If this was the case, any chain cleaner that removes grease with any kind of detergent or acidic chemicals would ruin the chain… that is basically every single chain cleaner commercially available. Most people just use carb or brake cleaner.. and that is 100 times more harsh than WD-40. I would not recommend WD-40 as a total chain cleaner, but it works in between very well. You just don’t want to saturate it. I use WD-40 all the time lightly on a rag and just run it across the chain to clean off the debris after a ride and I’ve been doing it for well over 20 years. I’d beat the absolute snot out of my bikes clutch wheelies…track days.. clutchless shifting..all kinds of stuff and even on cheap chain I still get well over 15 to 20,000 miles on liter bike.
WD stands for water displacement. It’s not a lubricant. Although it won’t damage your o-rings.
@poonchild you don't Need to lube a chain we do 60k mikes on unlubed chains. The lube is inside the orings which are sealed unless you take the orings apart and re greased them or have a non oring chain. If you do grease or oil them it just collect dirt and you may think you are greasing the rollers. Go on a 1000 mile trip and see how much grease or oil is on the rollers.
Wd 40 is not kerosene based but a good cleaner. That's all.i use clean the chain and go on your way. No need to grease it. Or clean with kerosene or diesel and leave it.
It's definitely living outside that does it. My bike is under a tarp and a bike cover, but still gets a rusty chain. Recently it had a nasty oil leak that got all over the rear wheel for weeks, and the chain still rusted! I find removing it, soaking/scrubbing with a toothbrush in a pan of petrol (it's not an o ring one), hanging it up to dry and then coating it inside and out with chain lube does the trick, but it's a pain so only happens when I'm off the road anyway.
My 1978 T140V has the old style non o-ring chain, and you can't beat the old-fashioned chain wax, which you heat up on the stove and immerse the chain in, then hang it up to drain. Lasts for months after that. Never jetwash a bike, though, water gets in all sorts of places it shouldn't be.
@@rickconstant6106 That does sound pretty good.
I use 80w90 gear oil. very affordable and not wash-off if I ride in the rain (I live in malaysia, we get raining atleast once a week). different with motorcycle oil. motorcycle oil get wash-off in the rain, even you just parked your motorcycle. i has been tried before. my chain get rusty.
before this, my chain plate like zig zag (maybe o-ring stuck or too dry. i use white lithium grease and normal chainlube bought from hardware store before). I clean the chain then apply gear oil every 50km. now my chain look good, no more zig zag chain plate.
now I just need to lube my chain every 500km but before I lube my chain, I clean my chain from old lube with kitchen towel or old rags. very easy to clean compared if I use chainlube. every 2000km, I clean my chain with kerosene and soap before rinse with water.
Keep it simple!
Water and metal don't play well together!
I wash my bike, take a quick spin around the block to dry it and dry the chain and warm up the chain.
Then I clean the chain with diesel...! Best cleaner ever! It has oil in it to prevent rust! It dries up quick! and Cleans very well... Also gets rid of moisture! Which is a good thing!
Then to lube, I use simple cheap gear oil (aka final drive oil) 80W90. Just moved to castrol gear oil now also....
Yes it's a bit messy, but you don't soak the chain in and it gets sucked up into the chain bits to keep everything nice and lubed.
When I'm all done, I run the bike on the stand in 3rd so the excess oil flies off.
Let it sit overnight. Final quick wipe the next day and chain is still gold and shiny, even after almost 20000kms!
And no dry links either!
Old school methods are tried and tested over the years. Keep it cheap and keep it simple!
Hey, I live in the UK and it rains almost every day. A chain oiler is the best way to keep the chain lubricated all the time with minimum effort. Just clean it once a week to get rid of the grime and the chain oiler keeps it lubed the rest of the time. Good video.
I clean and lube the chain religiously every 400 miles on my ZX14R. I hate to say this, but the Motul lubricant is the one that doesn't keep the chain rust-free even for 400 miles. My chain shows sections of rust after 300 miles. But when I use wax-based lubricants, I get no rusty sections at all for the full 400 or so miles until I clean and the chain again. Hence, sometimes a big name just doesn't do it, too. Just my 2 cents...
I would suggest you to use ceramic chain lube from kawasaki try it best in the rainy season also that's for a long ride if you ride your motorcycle daily then I would suggest gear oil but it won't be good in the rainy season but it will help the chain to keep out of rust
a lot of chain lube is not oil or grease it just slightly lubricates the chain.
either buy a plated chain or use spray grease but all the knobs do not like a bit of grease on the wheels. bless
I live in Puerto Rico close to the Ocean and thankfully what helps is USING IT ALLOT 🤣 Mine has 15k Miles in 1 1/2 year of usage...
My bike lives outside too, but without a cover, and no rust on the chain. I clean it only with a regular chain brush. I lube it maybe once or twice every couple of months. I've been using Bel-Ray lube for quite a while now (no specific reason) so perhaps that's something? 🤷I also go for a ride after the wash and before lubing the chain, which may dry the chain better, and I've also seen some manufacturers recommend applying the lube to a warm chain so that might be another thing.
Does a regular iron remover for cars help to these problem? Usually used to remover rust particles that comes from breaking.
The variety of chain "advice" here. My eyes.
Makes the chat gpt suggestions on chain maintenance look good.
I just use a dish scouring pad and kerosene to clean my rusty chain. In the winter I apply a tin layer of ACF50 anti corrosion spray followed by a wet lube. In the summer I use Wurth’s dry lube. Best way to keep a chain in good condition is regular maintenance.😄
I use engine degreaser to clean the chain. Works wonders.
Corrosion X. Use the red bottle. Lubricant and rust prevention/treatment.
Use gear oil after cleaning. You will be amazed.
Some people recommend to clean the chain with methylated spirits, apply a small amount of ACF50 and let stay for a day, dry with a cloth and apply the grease, not sure if works after the chain has been damaged but I know for fact that by using acf50 he will prevent the rust 😮
In the user manual that came with my motorcycle, it says to lubricate the chain with 80w90 oil ... once my chain picked up a little rust and since I lubricated it with the oil and stopped using sprays, the rust has never appeared again.
Only ever cleaned a chain once, it was a filthy operation. So I just keep it well lubed with Motul and I get about 30-35,000 k's out of a chain.
Use autoglym metal polish with GM 3000 grit sponge sandpaper to get rid of the stain after the wire wool and WD-40 and it will be back to new again.
2:00 you should put some cardboard behind the chain to cover tire, a bit of that lube oil gonna be on rear tire, can be slippery easy... Like the video otherwise... Ride safe ✌️
Since I bought a shaft drive motorcycle, I don't think I'll ever buy a chain drive again!
Just the fact that I can finally have white wall tires, not to mention the lack of maintenance required, is enough to outweigh the power it eats away.
My bike is 18 years old, has lived most of its life outdoors and near the sea and still has the original chain in excellent condition, the secret? I don't know but I've always avoided washing or cleaning it, when I wash the bike I avoid the chain as much as possible. I have only ever used motor oil to lubricate it and no other products.
Wd40 chain lube works the best. Chain doesn't rust and looks new all the time
White lightning Co "Clean Ride" Self cleaning chain lube for MTB used for motorcycle
Acf50 spray is anti-corrosion Also spot on thin film last 12 month +
Dont they make stainless chains?
Good video but I'd recommend better shampoo first for whole bike eg. Bilt Lambert. Then decent cleaner - kerosene. No need for WD-40 which just gets in everywhere and does not allow chain lube to stay.
Bilt Lambert does some wicked rust removers too and I think product called Surfex HD for stubborn dirt wash.
Last but not least - ACF50 for whole bike rust protection.
The oil the you put on the chain is for this exact reason. Add a thicker coat (hopefully with a brush, like motomul). My bike is outside all year without any issues.
After washing it and drying off the chain, you could ride it for a bit to have it super dry a hot. In this way no water dropplets will be trapped under the oil you put on it and the oil will stick to the hot chain better.