How to laser cut depron on a K40 laser cutter

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
  • In this video I show you how I laser cut depron on my K40 laser cutter.
    #K40
    #K40LaserCutter
    #Depron
    Contents of this video;
    00:00 - Intro
    00:07 - Software modification
    00:26 - Hardware modification
    01:02 - Preparing the depron
    02:13 - Settings
    03:18 - Cutting
    04:57 - Inspection of cut parts
    06:16 - Precise cuts
    07:05 - Outro
    The best mirror alignment video: • The Short K40 Laser Al...
    The ramp test: • Setting Laser Focus on...
    Links:
    First, if you are in Denmark like me, you need a VPN to access Banggood, since it is currently blocked. I am using www.cyberghostvpn.com/
    Laser cutter: vevor-de.myshopify.com/collec...
    K40 Whisperer: www.scorchworks.com/K40whispe...
    Lab jack: banggood.com/4inch-Aluminum-L...
    Honeycomb bed:banggood.com/SCULPFUN-Laser-C...
    Depron: www.rcleo.com/product/2688218...
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ความคิดเห็น • 21

  • @skysurferuk
    @skysurferuk 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I kinda missed the explanation as to why you cut with multiple passes. Also why you don't have a strip of wood/acrylic fixed, to act as a fixed X0 Y0 datum, so you can then replace your material in the same place every time. I use a steel expanded metal bed, & use magnets to ensure the material is flat. Also the first machine I've seen with Vevor on it... you're lucky to have received it in one piece, or at all...

    • @kaspersorensen
      @kaspersorensen  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The reason for multiple passes is because I wanted a narrow and straight kerf. Doing 2,5 mA, at 30 mm/s gets me that.
      Initially, I used higher power and lower speed which resulted in a full cut but with an unsuable very wide kerf, generally uneven but also a concave kerf.
      When higher power and/or lower speed is used, the area which is affected by the beam is alot larger, resulting in a wide kerf.
      Even 2,5 mA, at 20 mm/s is not a good at 30 mm/s.
      Magnets is an awesome idea, thanks for that one, but I generellay don't move the depron in between cuts, and this was just a demonstration of how the cut looked after the first pass.
      I bought the machine inside EU, and shipping was less than a week. Maybe I was lucky.

    • @my_dear_friend_
      @my_dear_friend_ ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kaspersorensen - Yeah, the concave kerf is not pretty or great for glueing the pieces later. I will have to try the multiple passes concept at low power.

  • @CESARBREMERPINHEIRO
    @CESARBREMERPINHEIRO ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome vídeo, thank you for tech us.

  • @bobbyboy1962
    @bobbyboy1962 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    looks great, what is the plane you are building

    • @kaspersorensen
      @kaspersorensen  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. I am building the next version of this one: th-cam.com/video/OtPNJ52KhIw/w-d-xo.html

  • @user-ik4je1uo6w
    @user-ik4je1uo6w หลายเดือนก่อน

    👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

  • @pjcarter8230
    @pjcarter8230 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very helpful. I need to cut some part in foam and thought that I'd check. I did notice that your rib nose profile was very angular. I use Inkscape to produce the SVG files for Wisperer, there is a spline curve function in Inkscape that smooths the curve.

    • @kaspersorensen
      @kaspersorensen  ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes it is not super smooth, I will try your suggestion. It also seems the profiles from airfoiltools.com are not smooth either. Maybe your suggestion will work on that as well

  • @polylight
    @polylight ปีที่แล้ว

    Very nice! With such good control (4 passes to penetrate), could you have a consistent groove with one or two passes to be able to insert small carbon fiber rod or wetted tow for reinforcement? Not for ribs, but for other parts such as spars. I have used a fine kerf jeweler's blade on my 4" Byrnes tablesaw to groove foam on both sides and then insert carbon fiber rods for a very rigid part. However, sawing foam is not as good as melting it which creates a skin layer for the epoxy to attach. Plus, with laser you could even cut truss grooves...getting excited about this now.

    • @kaspersorensen
      @kaspersorensen  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks, I guess it could be possible. I highly recommend a laser cutter, but with the K40 I already dream of a larger cut area.

    • @polylight
      @polylight ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kaspersorensen Size is one of things that holds me back (with the higher costs). Too bad they are generally square in dimension when when our purposes a longer, skinnier version would be better.

  • @BenErikNess
    @BenErikNess ปีที่แล้ว

    Very informative! I'm a depron builder too! (check my channel) I recently acquired a 10W laser (without knowing too much about it) with intention to ease my depron cutting. I just got it running and it works quite well. White depron however looks like it might be a challenge...
    Any tips?

    • @kaspersorensen
      @kaspersorensen  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi Ben
      Thanks!
      If it is a diode laser you have bought, the wave lenght may not work well with white depron.

    • @BenErikNess
      @BenErikNess ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kaspersorensen I'm afraid you are right. Works well with yellow and black... And it's primarily for ribs and internal structures...

    • @galactica1980
      @galactica1980 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@BenErikNess give a light spray of black paint and try again, set the focal point in the middle of the material.

    • @BenErikNess
      @BenErikNess ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@galactica1980 I did try to add colored dark blue masking tape on the surface... It did cut the tape but not the foam...

    • @galactica1980
      @galactica1980 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@BenErikNess co2 laser time buddy