"Hard as Hull is Sally Hansens". "Adhesive rather than cohesive". These two items alone are pure gold. Great stuff...all the way through. So appreciative that you are sharing your knowledge and experience. Super helpful..
I tied flies for 30 years and I thought I knew a few things until I studied your book. I was very humbled by it. I have learned so much from you over the past few years from your exceptional videos as well. May your son rest in peace 🙏 ❤
I remember back in the day when Dave's Flexament was a game changer for working with turkey tail feathers. Now we need an entire storsge system for all of our glue/resin options!
Thanks for doing these, Charlie! I'm collecting each "Ask Charlie" in a library along with Cheech's Skill Builder series! I have every edition of each!
This video explains so many of the frustrations I have had with these materials. Extremely valuable, even knowing how to properly apply light. I always assumed close proximity was best. Thanks for revealing so many errors of my ways!
Thanks for the thorough explanation of these adhesives and resins. The thing that was an eye opener for me was how you cut the brush down on the Zap A Gap. I’ve done it but it just never turned out right. Looking forward to the next installment! 🎣
Great info as always - thank you. Any tips on keeping super glue from drying out in the tube or bottle? If I use super glue once while tying, invariably the next time I want to use some it's hard as stone. That's one of the great upsides of resin, too - shelf stability.
Good information. Solarez is the only resin I use , started out with another resin had difficulty with it yellowing and not curing properly. There is one style dry fly I use the thick resin on , parachutes in larger sizes, 14-12-10. One small drop on the post , wrap the hackle and cure. Been using that method for around five years, no failures with the hackle, and because it’s large and heavily hackled still floats fine.
When I started tying,60+ years ago, we used clear fingernail polish. It has never failed me and still use it. I fish northern Ca steelhead an my flies hold up. There was not any fancy glues. As an aside, when you needed hackles you went out to the chicken coop to get what you needed.
Really insightful and practical - as your videos always are. I have the Solarez Flex formula - which came with their 3 formula variety pack - and never knew where specifically to use it before now. Thanks for the coaching! 💡💥
Great info. I think I’ve used all the glues and resins so this has been good to see and verify my current choices . Recently I’ve been using a glue E-6000 for holding eyes on my salt water flies and they do not come off . Also been playing with a product called liquid fusion to make flexible faces on some streamers works great . And I did see you using a Dennis Collier bobkin recently on one of your videos I bet it’s laying around somewhere. As always thanks for sharing your knowledge of tying materials.
Solarez tips for the little bottles are super useful. You can get em direct from Solarez but they are now charging a nominal fee. New bottles come with different sized tips but I have a bottles that are a year+ or more so, of course, I had to get a few different tips. Btw, how fast does Solarez dry out if left uncapped? Bodkins are still my preferred way for sz 18+ hooks. That bodkin you featured looks awesome! Gonna come in and get me one! Thanks as always! Great info!
Thank you for the info on the Solarez Bonedry Plus. I thought I would never be able to use Bonedry again. My eyes would puff up and I would get this itchy feeling between my eyes and on my cheeks. Just like I had walked into a spider web! I ordered it from you today.
Great information. I think it only leaves one question unanswered, which is does resin have a shelf life? I think I read somewhere recently that it should last for about two years. Also, it should be said that what causes the CA superglues to set is pressure, so it's pushing the cone on a Slumpbuster back hard into the collar that causes the superglue gel to stick everything in place. The same is true with with brush-on superglues, paint a little on your thread, make a few wraps, and the pressure of wrapping will set the glue. Before the colored resins came out, I used to mix a tiny bit of UV cure nail polish in with my resin in one of the Loon mixing cups to get a colored resin; now there are crafting products (in lots of colors) made specifically for that purpose. But if you make the mixture too opaque, you'll have trouble curing it. A little goes a very long way.
Hey Charlie - how do you get around the milky or cloudy finish that sometimes happens with UV resin over time? I keep finding that my flies after some use get this look and drives me nuts….they look perfect out of the vice though so not sure what’s causing it. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge as always!
Very nice video. I have use resin a lot and really like the Loon. I've tried bugbond and solarez, the pink bottle. To my likings, that solarez resin what so thick, I had troubles getting it out of the applicator. So basicaly, bonedry for a thin application, bonedry plus for thorax cover. I like tying gamechangers. What would you recommend to stick those eyes on?
Not arguing for using uv resin for dry flies, but the stuff floats. I know because I used it to repair my toilet. It also gradually turns to a brownish green when it's been wet a while
I only keep three adhesives, etc…water thin CA (I think mine is thin zap a gap currently, but any water thin CA will do…star bond is great stuff), medium brush on and medium UV. Between those, I can get everything done I need to. Water thin wicks deeply into things, builds strength and solidifies stuff underneath. Medium brush on does general duty stuff like lead wire. Medium UV is good because it can be compact or you can build a couple layers if necessary. Medium UV will also have some subtle wicking action to strengthen sculpted deer hair heads. Anything beyond those three would be niche for me…say you needed some heavy UV because you tie a lot of scuds and things of that nature.
I still have uses for 30min epoxy on stuff like certain styles of squid patterns and their ilk, mylar tube bodies in some cases, and I've used it on some big streamers. Appreeciate the info on the Solarez, had issues with a 2-3 other makes doing some weird krap at times, was thinking of trying it, but was getting kind of leary of buying more resins, wasn't overly pleased with some of them, do love the effects a person can create with them.
Hi Charlie. Great video! I think it'd be helpful for the viewers (especially coming back to this like I am) to use the Chapters feature on TH-cam. That way we can see the table of contents and find the product and your comments quickly.
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. Yes, I have various resins, glues and cements. Mostly use bone dry, resin and loon hard head cement. Would you ever use water based head cement?
Anyone please, what is best for a quill on a dry fly, uv resin of a certain brand, super glue or something else ? Any info will be appreciated!!!! Thanks!!
I used at one time or another every kind of glue on the market. I like to buy local when ever I can, Locktight is available but not the brush on. I have in the past used brush on Crazy Glue because well the stores were I live stock it. Its garbage. the caps will crack and it dries out way to fast. Back in the day I was really hooked of Daves Flexcemet. My guess the Wasipi product is the same, I got some and I like it. I don't use any sort of head cement or glue on dry flies. I just tie and do a whip finish and go fish. Gluing over the eye of the hook and not catching it at the bench makes for some interesting issues getting a fly tied on while you are burning up the last bit of daylight. I never had issues with duriblilty. Nymphs hairwings and streamers yeah,I do use glue, but not much. I just don't like the smell of it. Now if they came up with a glue that smells like Hoppe #9 I would use that in a heart beat. Hoppe's #9 also is a pretty good men's cologne in my opinion.
"Hard as Hull is Sally Hansens". "Adhesive rather than cohesive". These two items alone are pure gold. Great stuff...all the way through. So appreciative that you are sharing your knowledge and experience. Super helpful..
I had no idea there was so much to learn! This video I will need to watch twice. Thank you for saving me much time in the future
This is handy. Materials can be daunting, and videos like this are a great learning tool. Thank you
I tied flies for 30 years and I thought I knew a few things until I studied your book. I was very humbled by it. I have learned so much from you over the past few years from your exceptional videos as well. May your son rest in peace 🙏 ❤
I remember back in the day when Dave's Flexament was a game changer for working with turkey tail feathers. Now we need an entire storsge system for all of our glue/resin options!
I was just gonna ask about uv lights and then you pretty much answered my question, need to find one of those Solarez rechargeables.
Best video yet on resin , glue, and adhesives
Thanks for doing these, Charlie! I'm collecting each "Ask Charlie" in a library along with Cheech's Skill Builder series!
I have every edition of each!
Superb video. Really helpful.Also admire your honesty and opinion. Good man. Keep the videos coming 👍
Excellent information, thanks for sharing Good Stuff!
Good Luck too all on the water 👍 🎏👍
The Vermonter
This video explains so many of the frustrations I have had with these materials. Extremely valuable, even knowing how to properly apply light. I always assumed close proximity was best. Thanks for revealing so many errors of my ways!
love that zap brush tip, thanks!
Outstanding as always CC. You are the man!!
Thanks for the thorough explanation of these adhesives and resins. The thing that was an eye opener for me was how you cut the brush down on the Zap A Gap. I’ve done it but it just never turned out right. Looking forward to the next installment! 🎣
Thank you for doing these videos. Very very helpful to me. I'm a couple years into tying and am trying to move on to more complicated flies.
Charlie, thanks a lot for the info you have presented. You answered questions that I didn't even know enough to ask. Thanks again.
Excellent! Thanks for the tip on the bodkin. I have been having issues with the old style bodkins.
Great video and love the idea behind doing these reviews. Theres so many options on the market nowadays. Thank you!
Very informative, thanks for educating us and I really liked the way your copper John looked, thanks again and look forward to the next video
Great info as always - thank you. Any tips on keeping super glue from drying out in the tube or bottle? If I use super glue once while tying, invariably the next time I want to use some it's hard as stone. That's one of the great upsides of resin, too - shelf stability.
Good information. Solarez is the only resin I use , started out with another resin had difficulty with it yellowing and not curing properly. There is one style dry fly I use the thick resin on , parachutes in larger sizes, 14-12-10. One small drop on the post , wrap the hackle and cure. Been using that method for around five years, no failures with the hackle, and because it’s large and heavily hackled still floats fine.
Great job on a sticky subject. Enjoy your insights.
When I started tying,60+ years ago, we used clear fingernail polish. It has never failed me and still use it. I fish northern Ca steelhead an my flies hold up. There was not any fancy glues. As an aside, when you needed hackles you went out to the chicken coop to get what you needed.
Really insightful and practical - as your videos always are. I have the Solarez Flex formula - which came with their 3 formula variety pack - and never knew where specifically to use it before now. Thanks for the coaching! 💡💥
Great tips/info. I wonder if microwaving the Solarez causes any off-gassing?
Super helpful Charlie.
Thanks for this video. Seen all the stuff in other videos, but wondering why head cement on this fly and super glue on that one. Very helpful.
Great info. I think I’ve used all the glues and resins so this has been good to see and verify my current choices . Recently I’ve been using a glue E-6000 for holding eyes on my salt water flies and they do not come off . Also been playing with a product called liquid fusion to make flexible faces on some streamers works great . And I did see you using a Dennis Collier bobkin recently on one of your videos I bet it’s laying around somewhere. As always thanks for sharing your knowledge of tying materials.
Solarez tips for the little bottles are super useful. You can get em direct from Solarez but they are now charging a nominal fee. New bottles come with different sized tips but I have a bottles that are a year+ or more so, of course, I had to get a few different tips. Btw, how fast does Solarez dry out if left uncapped? Bodkins are still my preferred way for sz 18+ hooks. That bodkin you featured looks awesome! Gonna come in and get me one! Thanks as always! Great info!
Thank you for the info on the Solarez Bonedry Plus. I thought I would never be able to use Bonedry again. My eyes would puff up and I would get this itchy feeling between my eyes and on my cheeks. Just like I had walked into a spider web! I ordered it from you today.
Thank you sir.
Great information. I think it only leaves one question unanswered, which is does resin have a shelf life? I think I read somewhere recently that it should last for about two years. Also, it should be said that what causes the CA superglues to set is pressure, so it's pushing the cone on a Slumpbuster back hard into the collar that causes the superglue gel to stick everything in place. The same is true with with brush-on superglues, paint a little on your thread, make a few wraps, and the pressure of wrapping will set the glue.
Before the colored resins came out, I used to mix a tiny bit of UV cure nail polish in with my resin in one of the Loon mixing cups to get a colored resin; now there are crafting products (in lots of colors) made specifically for that purpose. But if you make the mixture too opaque, you'll have trouble curing it. A little goes a very long way.
Also, the "gas" that resin let's off is actually just excess water vapor 😊
Hey Charlie - how do you get around the milky or cloudy finish that sometimes happens with UV resin over time? I keep finding that my flies after some use get this look and drives me nuts….they look perfect out of the vice though so not sure what’s causing it. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge as always!
Great stuff bro, thanks! Which would you use to add durability to a fly style jig for bass?
I noticed you never mentioned any of the Loon resins, how do they stack up against the solar products?
What can you dilute Zap A Gap with?
Very nice video. I have use resin a lot and really like the Loon. I've tried bugbond and solarez, the pink bottle. To my likings, that solarez resin what so thick, I had troubles getting it out of the applicator. So basicaly, bonedry for a thin application, bonedry plus for thorax cover. I like tying gamechangers. What would you recommend to stick those eyes on?
Thanks for the Master Class Charlie 🎉
✨🎣💫
You are the best. Thank you.
Have you used any of the water based options like loon water based head cement and loon hard head?
@@supergeezer96 I have. I don’t care for it.
Anyone use Krazy Glue?
Great 👍 good information for the new ones
Not arguing for using uv resin for dry flies, but the stuff floats. I know because I used it to repair my toilet. It also gradually turns to a brownish green when it's been wet a while
Thanks
I only keep three adhesives, etc…water thin CA (I think mine is thin zap a gap currently, but any water thin CA will do…star bond is great stuff), medium brush on and medium UV. Between those, I can get everything done I need to. Water thin wicks deeply into things, builds strength and solidifies stuff underneath. Medium brush on does general duty stuff like lead wire. Medium UV is good because it can be compact or you can build a couple layers if necessary. Medium UV will also have some subtle wicking action to strengthen sculpted deer hair heads. Anything beyond those three would be niche for me…say you needed some heavy UV because you tie a lot of scuds and things of that nature.
Can you thin out Loon UV thick resign. Great video, thanks for posting, new sub. 😀
I still have uses for 30min epoxy on stuff like certain styles of squid patterns and their ilk, mylar tube bodies in some cases, and I've used it on some big streamers. Appreeciate the info on the Solarez, had issues with a 2-3 other makes doing some weird krap at times, was thinking of trying it, but was getting kind of leary of buying more resins, wasn't overly pleased with some of them, do love the effects a person can create with them.
Hi Charlie. Great video! I think it'd be helpful for the viewers (especially coming back to this like I am) to use the Chapters feature on TH-cam. That way we can see the table of contents and find the product and your comments quickly.
Excellent point!
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. Yes, I have various resins, glues and cements. Mostly use bone dry, resin and loon hard head cement.
Would you ever use water based head cement?
No
These material videos are awesome! If you were tying a fly for the Jackson Hole One Fly, say an Amy's Ant, what glues/resins would you use?
Thanks for your insights 😉👍
Well done.
Where do you get your short needle bodkins?
I hadn't watched far enough...got it!
Haven't seen a fly tied in a while 😔 missing my Charlie tying sessions
Anyone please, what is best for a quill on a dry fly, uv resin of a certain brand, super glue or something else ?
Any info will be appreciated!!!! Thanks!!
I’d use zap-a-gap under the quill.
@@CharliesFlyBox thanks!!! I’ll try that. .
I used at one time or another every kind of glue on the market. I like to buy local when ever I can, Locktight is available but not the brush on. I have in the past used brush on Crazy Glue because well the stores were I live stock it. Its garbage. the caps will crack and it dries out way to fast. Back in the day I was really hooked of Daves Flexcemet. My guess the Wasipi product is the same, I got some and I like it. I don't use any sort of head cement or glue on dry flies. I just tie and do a whip finish and go fish. Gluing over the eye of the hook and not catching it at the bench makes for some interesting issues getting a fly tied on while you are burning up the last bit of daylight. I never had issues with duriblilty. Nymphs hairwings and streamers yeah,I do use glue, but not much. I just don't like the smell of it. Now if they came up with a glue that smells like Hoppe #9 I would use that in a heart beat. Hoppe's #9 also is a pretty good men's cologne in my opinion.
Any comments on waterbased head cement from loon...looks like watered down elmers...but has little smell and seems to penetrate well....
No mention of water based products?
Hate ‘em. Don’t penetrate and turn white.
Not for me.
Sorry about all the “ummms”…
👍🏻👍🏻
Love it but you should watch it back and count how many times you said "I'm" lol I lost count at 165 times.
Thanks for that.
wow
Don't you have to protect your eyes?
Yes, in my opinion you should.
Ask Charlie- What rods, reels and lines do you fish with?
Max is Always taking some shit from Charlie.. he must be out fishing him!
Mic drop!
If they made a gas can cologne I’d wear it.
Completely misread that as "Charlie takes a deep huff of glue and resins". My bad.
Sponsored?
@@steveknipp1220 nope
What can you dilute Zap A Gap with?