Not trying to be offensive but you are one of the few American guys which goes straight to the point and explains what he is doing without wasting time.
I just wanted to thank you! Recently I looked at my right Zaxis and one of the screws was sticking half out. I just tightened it (not thinking) and from then on, my zaxis has this grinding noise when near 0. I tried realigning the right side and the sound was a little better but continued on for 2 more weeks. I saw a post on FB, Anet A8 group linking your video. Seeing how fast you fixed this was inspiring. As soon as your video finished, I got out a sharpy, ruler and alan-key. Pulled the z shafts and connectors, measured and reinstalled everything according to your video(less than 10 minutes)... and Success!!!! Noise is gone! Watching more of your videos right now. Thanks!!
Thank you! Best video I’ve seen on this. Everyone wants you to “print this, install that”. You’re the only one who says hey, why not just align the machine properly. Thanks again.
I think I understand why this fix works. Its probably because the couplers are intended to be flexible to account for the subtle misalignment between shafts that is inevitable in machine assembly (The coupler is like a universal joint essentially). Your motor shaft and threaded rods are very likely not perfectly on center with each other, so rather than try to perfectly align the rods (which would be quite difficult), you can make the coupler flexible to accommodate for the misalignment. For these couplers, If you have the shaft and lead screw butted up against each other it prevents the coupler from being able to flex, thus the slight eccentricity that is caused by the misalignment is transmitted and causes the Z wobble. The majority of the positional tolerance in the machine should usually be based on the smooth rods (since they constrain the motion of each axis).
Very clear video and quick to the point, thank you! Although I'm unaware if this made any significant difference in my print quality, it did fix my OCD issue I was having with the lead screws.
This had been bugging me since I assembled the printer a couple of weeks back, but all the pictures I saw had the Z-screws "waving in the air" at the top, so I figured I must have done it right (though I didn't like it). Awesome video, short and to the point, it explains the problem and clearly and simply and how to fix it without messing around. Well done, sir!
I think you are missing one thing that can contribute, and that is the alignment of the lead screws nut, to the lead screw. As received, the brass nut was not quite parallel to the line between between the top hole and the coupler. I had to shim my nut under the mounting screw. One was out ~1/2 of the diameter of the lead screw, the other almost a whole diameter, with the carriage up as high as it would go.
Thanks Calvin. The assembly videos don't show how to do this, and a lot of the time the couplings come from the factory screwed in to have them almost hard against the stepper.
thank you so so so much....i was struggling from my z axis wooble from nearly 20 days..saw your video followed the steps and BOOM...now im getting perfect prints.... THANKS A LOT Keep making content like these... im soo happy now... thank you
Great video. Those are basically “clutches”. They are used to prevent jamming because it would be almost impossible to perfectly align the stepper motor shaft with the threaded rod lengthwise in all 360 degree. directions. They allow a little “give” with out breaking the motor or rod. Think of it as a U-Joint in your truck. The transmission shaft is straight as it turns while the drive shaft dips a little towards the rear differential. I hope that helps you as much as your video helped me. I pressed like!
The correct assembly of these couplings is shown in the makers/suppliers catalogues. Boston Gear/Huco for example shows it. There is clearly a disconnect somewhere between the original suppliers and the final purchasers assembling them without these instructions. As has been pointed out though they can act as springs which is why some people suggest a ball bearing in the centre. A better option may be to use Oldham couplings that can take the weight without any spring effect or the flexible jaw couplings. I don't have a 3D printer but do have CNC machines so I am not in a position to try the three different types and suggest the best one for this application.
Thanks! I subscribed and gave you a thumbs up. I'll check out the rest of your videos (I'm on day #2 of with the Anet A8. I'll print thumbscrew bed alignment things and z-limit thing. Do you link to the ones you made somewhere in one of your videos?
Thank you.just running 1st print after the alignment! Tried with digital calliper instead of ruler...didn't work. I'm sure it will make a difference as one of the screws was wobbling and then wiggling.
Thank you! Finally someone who makes sense on the internet... The vast majority of 3D printing videos on TH-cam are plain bullshit, this however is the correct way to install the Z axis.
Nice video! Thanks to this movie, I discovered that one of my flexible motor couplings was bend and had to be replaced with great print improvement as consequence!
for reference those couplers are also masking a misalignment issue. (that's what all those cuts are for, they allow things to move if there is misalignment.) also its not a threaded rod (well it is but it is more precise then a threaded rod) it is a lead screw
The coupler has a spring in the middle to compensate for any misalignment between the axis of the stepper and the rod. Some people suggest to use couplers without springs or press the axis together to get rid of the spring action
Yes I am aware anet among several other manufacturers recommend against by passing the spring coupling system. Some printers also come with solid couplers I expect this is due to the quality of the workmanship of the printer. as we all know the bargain basement printers while they can be great printers, the out of the box quality is often lacking
It's all about destressing the y-stepper motors. You can fix them to death ;) - Even on CNC machines you'll use such spring couples. There is also another method, but I didn't tried it out (because I also have no wobbling problems at all): www.aliexpress.com/item/T8-Anti-Backlash-Spring-Loaded-Nut-Elimination-Gap-Nut-for-8mm-Acme-Threaded-Rod-Lead-Screws/32762831143.html
07:28 The idea in the open space of the coupler is to give some spring to it, to prevent backlash. This also keeps it from binding ever so slightly if the carriage is out of alignment.
No matter what I do with this I still get visible Z-wobble, the issue is when I clamp the lead screw into the coupling it bends the coupling off centre I've tried tightening up the set screws slowly and at the same time and it just lessens the bend. I don't think I'm going to completely eliminate Z-wobble this way unless I switch those couplings out.
thanks for the video not one time in the directions or the instruction video did it tell you this hell even the manufacturer has a gap at the top of the rod
Just a suggestion for those who don't have measuring blocks or a block of quite the right thickness: use the shank of a relevant sized drill bit - good for 0.5 mm accuracy in most cases and most but sets come in 0.5mm increments.
My problem was not even wobble, but my Z-axis was completely stuck. Someone on the Geeetech forum linked to this video and now the Z-axis moves. Thanks!
On my old i2 printer i don't have auto leveling and i have hard mounted the printbed on standoffs . as a result this alignment is ultra critical for me. However, i have never needed to make this adjustment, all you need to do it turn one side of the z rod or the other to level x right on. also, if the rod is bent....bend it back.. happy printing.
Who make the highest tolerance couplings? I'm having to switch from an integrated lead screw to one that uses a coupling. Need to know the best way to do it.
That type of coupler can cause you a lot of trouble with the Z-Axis. It might sound strange but you DON'T want a gap inside that coupler, if the shaft can goes hight enough some people put a ball from a ballbearing inside. This coupler works like a spring, think about it !!!!
I do the same as you did, but once it is "zeroed" in, I would turn the printer on and let it bring it down. Turning it by hand can cause one side to be higher than the other...
Thanks for the very concise video. I had issues and printed one of those parts. I'll be doing this instead. I think the primary reason people make this mistake is because (for me at least) the coupler was screwed in very close to the base of the stepper motor rod. If they're shipped separately you'll look into how to assemble it.
I tried the printed parts and it showed strong improvements in my prints. i understand the fact i could use them was because i installed my z rods incorrectly. I reinstalled them correctly, but im back to having z banding/wobble (or whatever other name it goes by) issues again. Does anybody have an information that could be of use. Thanks to anyone who can help.
If your printer came with a spool holder, it could be decent at holding up the extruder while you're working on the Z-axis. Anet A6's worked perfectly!
I would be tempted to cut off a bit of matchstick to the appropriate length and drop it into the collar before putting the top rod in. Stick it in, mark it at top of collar and cut it 5mm shorter.
The flexible coupling is prevent vibrations from the motor from transferring to the drive shaft .You may want to make some caps for the rods still though to silence the vibration at the top end of the rod and the frame. Mine is made of thin cardboard from some cigarette rolling papers (Roach). It is not a tight fit it just dampens the sound.
The trouble with this is that taking the slack and play out of that assembly makes it less forgiving to rod wobble. The opening is big on purpose. If it's seriously rattling around in there, I'd wager you have another problem.
Sostener asi tu eje x no es bueno para los ejes de la cama, ya que las varillas se curvan y luego tiene diferencias de altura entre el medio y los extremos.
Hi pal can you point me in the right direction so I can print off the green upgrades? I've look everywhere but can't find the green front Z axis frame. Please help thanks. Ps Ive Sub incase you do more very well done videos on this printer 👍👍👍
What is that device that has the scissor links for holding up the extruder? Is that something you purchased somewhere, or something you made? I'd like one of those.
Nice finding! It is a great fix but it doesn't go all they way; the frame holes are 10mm and Z rods are 8mm so there is still some room for wobble. Maybe we could put some sort of sleeve between the rod and the frame?
Anatoly, if you look at your coupling you will see slots in it, it is designed to have flex. The extra MM in the hole is is also intentional. the threaded rod needs to be able to "wiggle" at the top and bottom. If you stop this wiggle mechanically it transfers to the print itself. Remember the threaded rod is NOT a support structure. its part of the drive system. So first off you have to make sure its straight, the better job you can do and making sure your rod is not bent and aligned straight the better your print is.
the idea of the ten mm hole is just to insert the rods, not to make the rod's a snug fit ,if your rods are touching then have a look at how square / straight the frame is, a lot of people don't keep the frame level when building causing a twisted frame, one may not see by eyesight, but mostly their will be, in this case then put printer on a solid flat surface and loosen the frame screws, give the frame a bit of a wobble to de stress it and then tighten back up keeping the printer firmly on the flat surface and see if that helps.
Yea some I use it as a double check (at least on the stock anet), but not all printers are made the same as the anet. Also some people replace parts, this could alter the final alignment at the top. the main goal here is to make sure there is a gap inside the flex coupling,
Careful at the end of your video when adjusting carrier height individually on z motors, you are inducing current to the other motor and it is moving. Unplug motors before this adjustment, and double check your measurements.
On a A8 facebook group....I was told this is wrong!! I was told the Prusa machines have a ridged connection between motor and lead screw .....also told that adding bearing to the top brackets to enclose the threaded rod....transfers vibration to the frame....any comments.../ advice?
The machine I have used int he video is an Anet, the manufacturer of the machine recommends against any mod hold the top of the threaded it is suppose to be free floating
Can you give a link to the Anet info for these bearings and rod assembly. Do you know why Prusa do not assemble the z motors...rods like this and are fixed?
Another big mistake is to totally fix the printer on the table. I'm a fan of the opposite method: Putting the the printer on a flexible material (rubber mate or you can print out fancy anti tension holders - same effect). Results: Better prints and amazing less sounds. It's important that the frame of the printer is stable so those fixes are a good idea (but not too much, because an acrylic frame would never be as good as steel).
For my english speaking followers I will translate Lee Jong Won's Korean to English: "How to remove the z-axis wobble without any parts, equipment, or techniques. This is the first good way to try wobble problems. If you can not do this, try another way. " Note as I do not speak Korean I hope I have this correct.
Not trying to be offensive but you are one of the few American guys which goes straight to the point and explains what he is doing without wasting time.
I'm American, and I'm offended that you even had to clarify that you didn't intend to be offensive. Shine a light on the time wasters!
I'm offended that you specifically tried not to be offensive.
South americans are americans too...
You mean the off topic life stories that go way off track for the first 10 minutes of every video!
@Arturo Fernández I have the feeling that Americans then to get "offended" pretty easily
I just wanted to thank you!
Recently I looked at my right Zaxis and one of the screws was sticking half out. I just tightened it (not thinking) and from then on, my zaxis has this grinding noise when near 0. I tried realigning the right side and the sound was a little better but continued on for 2 more weeks. I saw a post on FB, Anet A8 group linking your video. Seeing how fast you fixed this was inspiring. As soon as your video finished, I got out a sharpy, ruler and alan-key. Pulled the z shafts and connectors, measured and reinstalled everything according to your video(less than 10 minutes)... and Success!!!! Noise is gone! Watching more of your videos right now. Thanks!!
Thank you! Best video I’ve seen on this. Everyone wants you to “print this, install that”. You’re the only one who says hey, why not just align the machine properly. Thanks again.
Finally, someone with a great explanation of what to do! Thanks. A more sensible fix.
I think I understand why this fix works. Its probably because the couplers are intended to be flexible to account for the subtle misalignment between shafts that is inevitable in machine assembly (The coupler is like a universal joint essentially). Your motor shaft and threaded rods are very likely not perfectly on center with each other, so rather than try to perfectly align the rods (which would be quite difficult), you can make the coupler flexible to accommodate for the misalignment.
For these couplers, If you have the shaft and lead screw butted up against each other it prevents the coupler from being able to flex, thus the slight eccentricity that is caused by the misalignment is transmitted and causes the Z wobble. The majority of the positional tolerance in the machine should usually be based on the smooth rods (since they constrain the motion of each axis).
W explanation🙌
Very clear video and quick to the point, thank you! Although I'm unaware if this made any significant difference in my print quality, it did fix my OCD issue I was having with the lead screws.
Many many thanks, solved my Z wobble problems, you're the first and one to make such a clear video tutorial!!!
This had been bugging me since I assembled the printer a couple of weeks back, but all the pictures I saw had the Z-screws "waving in the air" at the top, so I figured I must have done it right (though I didn't like it). Awesome video, short and to the point, it explains the problem and clearly and simply and how to fix it without messing around. Well done, sir!
I think you are missing one thing that can contribute, and that is the alignment of the lead screws nut, to the lead screw. As received, the brass nut was not quite parallel to the line between between the top hole and the coupler. I had to shim my nut under the mounting screw. One was out ~1/2 of the diameter of the lead screw, the other almost a whole diameter, with the carriage up as high as it would go.
Thanks Calvin. The assembly videos don't show how to do this, and a lot of the time the couplings come from the factory screwed in to have them almost hard against the stepper.
I was so sceptical about this, but it cost nothing but a few minutes of my time. It helped reduce my wobble so damned much! Thank you!
thank you so so so much....i was struggling from my z axis wooble from nearly 20 days..saw your video followed the steps and BOOM...now im getting perfect prints....
THANKS A LOT
Keep making content like these...
im soo happy now...
thank you
2 years here
Perfect! Simple and perfect show and explanation! Thank you very much!
a fella that gets strat to the bloody point nice one fella
Very clear and helpful, no nonsense. Thank you!
Thanks to your very clear video i fixed my issue with my anet a8 .....z grinding on way down......no more grinding
made my day helped a lot. why wasn't that on the assembly instructions ?
Thanks man.
Thank you for the thorough explanation and procedure!
Great video. Those are basically “clutches”. They are used to prevent jamming because it would be almost impossible to perfectly align the stepper motor shaft with the threaded rod lengthwise in all 360 degree. directions. They allow a little “give” with out breaking the motor or rod. Think of it as a U-Joint in your truck. The transmission shaft is straight as it turns while the drive shaft dips a little towards the rear differential. I hope that helps you as much as your video helped me. I pressed like!
Thanks a lot! I've been chasing my tail for a while now, replacing spindles and whatnot, but it seems that this was actually my problem.
What a difference doing this made, just wow. Thanks a lot for sharing.
Haven't tried this yet but it makes a heck of a lot of sense and is easy to understand. Will have to try this before I do my next print. Thanks!
The correct assembly of these couplings is shown in the makers/suppliers catalogues. Boston Gear/Huco for example shows it. There is clearly a disconnect somewhere between the original suppliers and the final purchasers assembling them without these instructions. As has been pointed out though they can act as springs which is why some people suggest a ball bearing in the centre. A better option may be to use Oldham couplings that can take the weight without any spring effect or the flexible jaw couplings. I don't have a 3D printer but do have CNC machines so I am not in a position to try the three different types and suggest the best one for this application.
Thanks my friend, saved from printing something didnt need.
Thanks! I subscribed and gave you a thumbs up. I'll check out the rest of your videos (I'm on day #2 of with the Anet A8. I'll print thumbscrew bed alignment things and z-limit thing. Do you link to the ones you made somewhere in one of your videos?
Thank you.just running 1st print after the alignment!
Tried with digital calliper instead of ruler...didn't work.
I'm sure it will make a difference as one of the screws was wobbling and then wiggling.
Thank you! Finally someone who makes sense on the internet... The vast majority of 3D printing videos on TH-cam are plain bullshit, this however is the correct way to install the Z axis.
Nice video! Thanks to this movie, I discovered that one of my flexible motor couplings was bend and had to be replaced with great print improvement as consequence!
OMG!!!! This problem was bugging me soooo much. Thanks for the info!!!!
I was about to install the printed parts not now thanks for the video
Thanks!! you save me to waste plastic and time printing parts to solve this :D
Hahahaha "my 3 youtubers".... that made me laugh... had to check your video was watched 2.5k times. congrats dude thanks for the fix. will do it too
for reference those couplers are also masking a misalignment issue. (that's what all those cuts are for, they allow things to move if there is misalignment.)
also its not a threaded rod (well it is but it is more precise then a threaded rod) it is a lead screw
The coupler has a spring in the middle to compensate for any misalignment between the axis of the stepper and the rod. Some people suggest to use couplers without springs or press the axis together to get rid of the spring action
Yes I am aware anet among several other manufacturers recommend against by passing the spring coupling system. Some printers also come with solid couplers I expect this is due to the quality of the workmanship of the printer. as we all know the bargain basement printers while they can be great printers, the out of the box quality is often lacking
It's all about destressing the y-stepper motors. You can fix them to death ;) - Even on CNC machines you'll use such spring couples. There is also another method, but I didn't tried it out (because I also have no wobbling problems at all): www.aliexpress.com/item/T8-Anti-Backlash-Spring-Loaded-Nut-Elimination-Gap-Nut-for-8mm-Acme-Threaded-Rod-Lead-Screws/32762831143.html
Works =) Thank you very much! Greets from Germany!
Fantastic Video. Thanks!
07:28 The idea in the open space of the coupler is to give some spring to it, to prevent backlash. This also keeps it from binding ever so slightly if the carriage is out of alignment.
"my 3 youtube viewers" haha this video has 52k views!
No matter what I do with this I still get visible Z-wobble, the issue is when I clamp the lead screw into the coupling it bends the coupling off centre I've tried tightening up the set screws slowly and at the same time and it just lessens the bend. I don't think I'm going to completely eliminate Z-wobble this way unless I switch those couplings out.
thank you kind sir for the knowledge
After this video.... I subscribed. Very good video. Keep on
thanks for the video not one time in the directions or the instruction video did it tell you this hell even the manufacturer has a gap at the top of the rod
Just a suggestion for those who don't have measuring blocks or a block of quite the right thickness: use the shank of a relevant sized drill bit - good for 0.5 mm accuracy in most cases and most but sets come in 0.5mm increments.
My problem was not even wobble, but my Z-axis was completely stuck. Someone on the Geeetech forum linked to this video and now the Z-axis moves. Thanks!
Same problem, I think its my brass z-axis knuts
On my old i2 printer i don't have auto leveling and i have hard mounted the printbed on standoffs . as a result this alignment is ultra critical for me. However, i have never needed to make this adjustment, all you need to do it turn one side of the z rod or the other to level x right on. also, if the rod is bent....bend it back.. happy printing.
Who make the highest tolerance couplings? I'm having to switch from an integrated lead screw to one that uses a coupling. Need to know the best way to do it.
Great video, thanks
That type of coupler can cause you a lot of trouble with the Z-Axis.
It might sound strange but you DON'T want a gap inside that coupler, if the shaft can goes hight enough some people put a ball from a ballbearing inside.
This coupler works like a spring, think about it !!!!
Holy shit the solution is so obvious once you have seen it. Thank you!
What other modifications do you use on your printer?
Thanks, this solved my problem exactly
Great vid, thanks for sharing :)
I do the same as you did, but once it is "zeroed" in, I would turn the printer on and let it bring it down. Turning it by hand can cause one side to be higher than the other...
I was really hoping this would fix my problem! The right side still goes way down when I hit home all any other suggestions? Thanks
What is the name of the tool with which you hold the hotend in the video?
Thanks very helpful.
fix works on the ender 3 platform as well?
been seeing wobble since its been getting cold here.
Thanks for the very concise video. I had issues and printed one of those parts. I'll be doing this instead. I think the primary reason people make this mistake is because (for me at least) the coupler was screwed in very close to the base of the stepper motor rod. If they're shipped separately you'll look into how to assemble it.
Yea mine where the same took me some time to work this all out
I tried the printed parts and it showed strong improvements in my prints. i understand the fact i could use them was because i installed my z rods incorrectly. I reinstalled them correctly, but im back to having z banding/wobble (or whatever other name it goes by) issues again. Does anybody have an information that could be of use. Thanks to anyone who can help.
If your printer came with a spool holder, it could be decent at holding up the extruder while you're working on the Z-axis. Anet A6's worked perfectly!
I love videos like these
It would have been nice to see some builds (before and after).
I have never had the Z Wobble problem this was made to help others that have. On some printers this part of the build is not well explained.
I think this is a very good decision, tonight I will try to fix this error on my printer. Anyway thanks a lot and like!
Yes, indeed the reason was in this. Thanks again and good luck!
I put my cat under the hot end, and the cat ran off! Now what do I do?
use hairspray or or glues stick :P
Hi guys, i need the left and right z axis linear guides stl files for my Tronxy X8. The white ones in the video. Does someone have them?
I would be tempted to cut off a bit of matchstick to the appropriate length and drop it into the collar before putting the top rod in. Stick it in, mark it at top of collar and cut it 5mm shorter.
Do you happen to know size of set screws i am missing one
My hot plate when I put it in home all it moves all the way foward but it wont move backwards it stays stuck
The flexible coupling is prevent vibrations from the motor from transferring to the drive shaft .You may want to make some caps for the rods still though to silence the vibration at the top end of the rod and the frame. Mine is made of thin cardboard from some cigarette rolling papers (Roach). It is not a tight fit it just dampens the sound.
The trouble with this is that taking the slack and play out of that assembly makes it less forgiving to rod wobble.
The opening is big on purpose.
If it's seriously rattling around in there, I'd wager you have another problem.
Sostener asi tu eje x no es bueno para los ejes de la cama, ya que las varillas se curvan y luego tiene diferencias de altura entre el medio y los extremos.
While this definitely helped, it did not eliminate the problem and my rods are not bent at all. Does anyone have any input? Thanks
Hi pal can you point me in the right direction so I can print off the green upgrades? I've look everywhere but can't find the green front Z axis frame. Please help thanks. Ps Ive Sub incase you do more very well done videos on this printer 👍👍👍
Yep here it is www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857991
Thank you sir!!!
thakns for the video will now go and do a reset as per you explination
Nice video. Just a question. Why do the couplings need to be the same height from the stepper? How does that help with wobble?
I found my answer here I guess. makerfixes.com/maker-tips/fixing-z-wobble-on-a-3d-printer/
What is that device that has the scissor links for holding up the extruder? Is that something you purchased somewhere, or something you made? I'd like one of those.
I have put a link to one on my Website page for you makerfixes.com/maker-tips/fixing-the-z-wobble-on-your-3d-printer-the-correct-way/
@@moberlypost site dead? (I am only getting adds)
*laugh* Appreciate you taking your printer out of alignment to make this video!
thank you
Nice finding! It is a great fix but it doesn't go all they way; the frame holes are 10mm and Z rods are 8mm so there is still some room for wobble. Maybe we could put some sort of sleeve between the rod and the frame?
Anatoly, if you look at your coupling you will see slots in it, it is designed to have flex. The extra MM in the hole is is also intentional. the threaded rod needs to be able to "wiggle" at the top and bottom. If you stop this wiggle mechanically it transfers to the print itself. Remember the threaded rod is NOT a support structure. its part of the drive system. So first off you have to make sure its straight, the better job you can do and making sure your rod is not bent and aligned straight the better your print is.
the idea of the ten mm hole is just to insert the rods, not to make the rod's a snug fit ,if your rods are touching then have a look at how square / straight the frame is, a lot of people don't keep the frame level when building causing a twisted frame, one may not see by eyesight, but mostly their will be,
in this case then put printer on a solid flat surface and loosen the frame screws, give the frame a bit of a wobble to de stress it and then tighten back up keeping the printer firmly on the flat surface and see if that helps.
Thank you so much ~!
I have a geeetech prusa i3 pro B and I have an issue where both my Z-axis motors lock up and vibrate instead of rotating. What could this be?
SoupsSB I’m no expert but maybe the screws holding the motors in place are digging into the motor itself and are too long
If you have a 123 block, you can do away with using a ruler to make sure both Z axis are exactly level with each other.
I bought mine used, and apparently, they weren't setup right. Guess I need to do this. Great video
Much appreciated!!!
Learnt
Is there a reason why you just didn't level the top of lead screw with the frame?
Yea some I use it as a double check (at least on the stock anet), but not all printers are made the same as the anet. Also some people replace parts, this could alter the final alignment at the top. the main goal here is to make sure there is a gap inside the flex coupling,
Careful at the end of your video when adjusting carrier height individually on z motors, you are inducing current to the other motor and it is moving. Unplug motors before this adjustment, and double check your measurements.
Good Point motors produce electricity that feeds back into your main board
thanks !!!
What's the name of this support ?
..."upper z-axis clamp - don't use them!" you got +1 ...and I'm going to look your videos further :)
WOW - thanks!
I installed the couplings incorrectly .....the instructions were in broken english chinese....but now i know what i did
On a A8 facebook group....I was told this is wrong!! I was told the Prusa machines have a ridged connection between motor and lead screw .....also told that adding bearing to the top brackets to enclose the threaded rod....transfers vibration to the frame....any comments.../ advice?
The machine I have used int he video is an Anet, the manufacturer of the machine recommends against any mod hold the top of the threaded it is suppose to be free floating
Can you give a link to the Anet info for these bearings and rod assembly. Do you know why Prusa do not assemble the z motors...rods like this and are fixed?
The Anet machines come with a flex coupler, some other makes have a ridgid setup
OK, goooooooood job
How many 5mm
Thankyou!!!!
Your Welcome!
Why are your gantry rods sticking out that far? They are not all the way installed I don't think
They where not the originals ones, mine got bent so I borrowed them off another machine till I got new ones
Another big mistake is to totally fix the printer on the table. I'm a fan of the opposite method: Putting the the printer on a flexible material (rubber mate or you can print out fancy anti tension holders - same effect). Results: Better prints and amazing less sounds. It's important that the frame of the printer is stable so those fixes are a good idea (but not too much, because an acrylic frame would never be as good as steel).
BIG thanks from Russian printing nerd.
If only we had such explanations in that "official" assembly video... man :|
아무런 부품, 장비, 기술 없이 할 수 있는 z축 와블 제거 방법. 와블 문제 해결 시 첫번째로 시도할 만한 좋은 방법이다. 이거 해보고 안되면 다른 방법을 시도해봐야지
For my english speaking followers I will translate
Lee Jong Won's Korean to English: "How to remove the z-axis wobble without any parts, equipment, or techniques. This is the first good way to try wobble problems. If you can not do this, try another way. "
Note as I do not speak Korean I hope I have this correct.