3Racing Sakura D5MR Drift Chassis - Full Starter Build with Aluminum Upgrades
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2022
- This is the build video for my D5MR drift chassis. I have never built an RC car before, so this was a new experience and adventure for me. I do work on my cars regularly though, so thankfully those skills transferred over, and nothing exploded.
There are plenty of videos that cover the stock build of each bag, so those can be helpful if you are building it all stock. However, I was advised that some of the suspension & steering pieces can greatly benefit from an upgrade to their aluminum versions. So, I will be replacing the front and rear bulkheads, steering arms, steering bridge, and front suspension mounts with the aluminum pieces from 3Racing. Full parts list to complete the build below, including upgrades and notes of recommended, or required. Watch the video for more info on each.
Find out the complications involved when swapping from stock to aluminum parts during the build process. See what you may encounter, and how to resolve it. This is not a step-by-step process for each, but I do advise of any issues and cover the solutions when they arise. Some candy at the end of the video, a little test at the track, both before and after tuning.
This thing is an amazing entry level drift machine. After some tuning, it's also a little beast! Be sure to watch for upcoming videos of more upgrades, tuning, drifting, crashing, tandems, and many, many laps at DARC Circuit!
-Sakura D5MR Chassis Kit Ver. 1.0-
3Racing Aluminum Upgrades:
- Rear Bulkhead: SAK-D5609
- Steering Bridge: SAK-D5608
- Steering Wipers: SAK-D5607
- Front Bulkhead: SAK-D5605
- F Suspension Mounts: SAK-A541 (Rec. when using SAK-D5605)
- Suspension Mount Nuts: SAK-A545 (Req. when using SAK-A541)
Electronics Selected to Complete the Build:
- Steering Servo: Reve D RS-ST Drift Spec
- Motor & ESC: Hobbywing Justock Combo - 10.5T & Xerun XR10
- Drift Gyro: Yokomo DP-302 V4 - Purple & Gold
- Transmitter & Receiver: Sanwa MX-6 w/ Sanwa RX-391W 3 Ch.
- Bullet Connectors: 4/5 Double Barrel Gold from TQ Wire
- Batteries: 2S Lipo Scale Reflex 3500mah Shorties - 18mm Thick
Check out the following sites for the chassis and all upgrade parts used in this build.
3racing.shop
www.driftamericarc.com
Be sure to subscribe, like, comment, share, tell your friends, write your mom, take out the trash, assist dad with the instructions, and help your little sister hide the evidence of all the oreo's you ate while watching this... Cheers! 😁
Congrats on finishing and sticking with it!
Thank you! It was a whole new experience since I never built one before, but so worth it in the end. Thanks for watching!
Hi Shawn, what size are those two bullet connectors? Thanks
Hi @JustRCCrazy, first, thanks for watching!
I used 'double barrel' design connectors, so they go from 4mm to 5mm and can be used for either cell size. The ones I specifically used are from TQ Wire - Part # TQ2511 and can be found at most local shops, or via www.tqwire.com
Probably a good idea buying the upgrades rather than trying to cut off half of the stock mounts. That might of been asking too much out of them.
Absolutely. Plus, the aluminum mounts look way better than a hacked up mount for sure!
Skipped over the part I was looking for ....rear diff and motor bulk head😢
Sorry, didn't film the entire build of the diff or motor bulkhead...but happy to try and help you out if you have specific questions.
Hey, great vid. I was looking on doing one of these kits, but what type of pinion gear did u use?
Thanks, and thank you for watching. I used the 48 pitch 25T pinion gear that came with the kit.
did it came with the servo?
No, the kit I bought was without any electronics. I choose the ReveD RS-ST drift servo for my build. If you order it from the 3Racing website, you can get it with a gyro, or choice of servo from a couple options, in which case, I would have chosen the Brushless S15 servo.
Just got my Sakura d5mr, are the rear arms and mounts supposed to be at an angle and not go in straight like the front, I have to bend it a little to get it to fit.
If you are referring to the rear suspension mount with the 2.5 degree of toe, it was a very tight fit. I do recall having to work it into place, as the three protrusions did not line up exactly. Once I flexed it slightly, it popped into place. I am also running the aluminum rear bulkheads, which require the aluminum mounts for the rear suspension arms to have sufficient clearance, so it may differ slightly, if you are running all stock 3Racing parts.
Hopefully that helps, if not, just message me with some additional details or info and I'm sure we can figure it out! Thanks for watching!
What Is the setup for the car because I am getting the same one and have been doing dirt for 8 years now
There is so much adjustability, tuning, and many upgrade parts for this chassis. It can be setup several ways, with varying degrees of camber, toe, ride height, damper adjustment, different shock locations, offsets, sag, gyro, etc.
I honestly had to take it to my local track and get some tuning help from the veteran drivers to get it drifting smoothly, there is so much adjustability to mess around with, but well worth it once you start linking corners/drifts.
Bro I'm so stuck on the steering. It won't turn haha.
I had a similar issue building mine. Can you see anywhere that the steering bridge or steering arms are binding on anything when trying to turn by hand? Next place I would check would be the alignment of the steering servo arm. I originally had mine on at the wrong degree (manual calls for 17 degrees of angle) and it was causing it to lock up on one side. Hope that helps!
Are you from dallas?
Yes, currently in Dallas.
PSA: If I turn up missing anytime soon, someone track this guy down, lol. 🤣
@@shawn_of_the_shredI see you at the track all the time. I'll just keep noticing you and not saying anything
Most Important for me 🙏😙😙💘. Get to know the secret - "Promo sm" !!