A good series of videos. Just one observation. There should be a spacer ( part-no: 03.0023 ) on the left side between the gearbox top bolt and cradle. You will distort the cradle without it.
I can't thank you enough for making these videos . Watching you apply common sense w/ what you already know is like anyone else who would tackle such a project. I've been able to keep my 1970 Norton "S" running since I brought it new w/ the help of my friend Rick a master mechanic but he retired this month. He's replacing rear wheel bearings which you just happen to do a video on. I've watch them all and look forward to the completion of your Norton . Great color for the frame! Did you have to rebuild your front forks ? Thanks again and good luck on your build.
I rebuilt the forks and wheels before I started this channel but I did do one video on the forks 2-1/2 years ago here's the link: th-cam.com/video/7xZgxaVUYHI/w-d-xo.html I had to buy new tubes, bushings, seals, the works. Thank you for watching!! Hope it helps.
I am new to restoration...I just bought a 750 Commando Roaster, 1971 and I was browsing youtube for videos like this. Excellent information. thank you. I have many questions of course, but today I just would like to know where do I find the Chilton's engine timing guide ( and use information) as the one shown in the video at min 32:04. Thank you !
Good bit of work there Sir! Could you have released the rear tranny bracket bolt from the frame to let the whole assembly swing rearward, giving clearance to the front iso mount?
I think you mean the swing arm shaft, I don't know about that. The swing arm shaft and the front isolastic are the only 2 things holding it to the frame at this point. Maybe, probably would have scratched up the frame a bit.
I noticed that the lower engine to cradle bolt does not appear to be installed. Are you able to do that with the engine in the frame? Will need to know this as I get a '69 Commando ready to do the same.
Yes, I installed it the next morning. I have a video but I need to make a few more clips to put together to make a longer video. It goes in very close to the timing side. I actually used a pry bar to move the engine out a bit to get the bolt in with out scratching the engine.
I do but I don't know which one. I don't think I explained it very well either. Some people didn't get it. One of my videos is an index video with a description of all the videos. One of mt subs made it.
I apologize, I thought I responded to this comment weeks ago. There is a couple other videos on you tube that do a better job at it than I did. I should have explained in more detail why i didn't line up the wheel with any mark initially. It doesn't matter where you start as long as you know where the pointer is when you start. It's a bit confusing for sure. I was only using the wheel to determine exactly where top dead center is. Than count backwards to 31 degrees before TDC than see if that mark jives with the mark on the derby cover. Mine was out about 2.5 degrees.
maybe a helpful tip, speeds things up and saves frustration, use a tapered drift when aligning your bolt holes, great tutorial.
A good series of videos.
Just one observation. There should be a spacer ( part-no: 03.0023 ) on the left side between the gearbox top bolt and cradle. You will distort the cradle without it.
I had to go out and check my bike. You are right, I missed that. Thank you. One more thing to do this winter. Cheers!!
Looks good man! Good choice on the frame color.
I can't thank you enough for making these videos . Watching you apply common sense w/ what you already know is like anyone else who would tackle such a project. I've been able to keep my 1970 Norton "S" running since I brought it new w/ the help of my friend Rick a master mechanic but he retired this month. He's replacing rear wheel bearings which you just happen to do a video on. I've watch them all and look forward to the completion of your Norton . Great color for the frame! Did you have to rebuild your front forks ? Thanks again and good luck on your build.
I rebuilt the forks and wheels before I started this channel but I did do one video on the forks 2-1/2 years ago here's the link: th-cam.com/video/7xZgxaVUYHI/w-d-xo.html
I had to buy new tubes, bushings, seals, the works. Thank you for watching!!
Hope it helps.
I am new to restoration...I just bought a 750 Commando Roaster, 1971 and I was browsing youtube for videos like this. Excellent information. thank you. I have many questions of course, but today I just would like to know where do I find the Chilton's engine timing guide ( and use information) as the one shown in the video at min 32:04. Thank you !
Good bit of work there Sir! Could you have released the rear tranny bracket bolt from the frame to let the whole assembly swing rearward, giving clearance to the front iso mount?
I think you mean the swing arm shaft, I don't know about that. The swing arm shaft and the front isolastic are the only 2 things holding it to the frame at this point. Maybe, probably would have scratched up the frame a bit.
I noticed that the lower engine to cradle bolt does not appear to be installed. Are you able to do that with the engine in the frame? Will need to know this as I get a '69 Commando ready to do the same.
Yes, I installed it the next morning. I have a video but I need to make a few more clips to put together to make a longer video. It goes in very close to the timing side. I actually used a pry bar to move the engine out a bit to get the bolt in with out scratching the engine.
do you have a video showing how to use the degree wheel ?
I do but I don't know which one. I don't think I explained it very well either. Some people didn't get it.
One of my videos is an index video with a description of all the videos. One of mt subs made it.
I apologize, I thought I responded to this comment weeks ago. There is a couple other videos on you tube that do a better job at it than I did. I should have explained in more detail why i didn't line up the wheel with any mark initially. It doesn't matter where you start as long as you know where the pointer is when you start. It's a bit confusing for sure. I was only using the wheel to determine exactly where top dead center is. Than count backwards to 31 degrees before TDC than see if that mark jives with the mark on the derby cover. Mine was out about 2.5 degrees.
We can not view your latest vidio?
I was missing a section of the video so I had to re-do it. thx for watching
great to hear her run so smooth@@MOAB
Really why go to the trouble of restoring a bike and putting ugly old looking bolts, nuts and washers back on it? I get new ones or nickel plate them!