HOW DID THIS PASS INSPECTION???
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2023
- We were working on a pole barn to prep for a concrete floor and discovered it was not even close to built to the building code in New York State. We have a 48" frost level and all the poles were only in the ground 24". Lucky for the homeowner we discovered this and came up with a good solution to fix it or his entire Barndominium would have heaved in the winter from frost.
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I used to build pole barns for Away about 45 years ago in Upstate NY. Surprised they still make them. Looks to me the concrete chunks were add after construction because the shape of the chunks look like the dirt was dug away and then concrete was poured. During construction if someone wanted to pour concrete it would go all around the post.
That's a lot of work for floor prep, props to you for correcting someone else's mistake.
Yeah that's a no go, great job on the repair, thanks for sharing 💪🇺🇲🤙👌✊
When I see videos like this I save them to show my customers the consequences of a "low ball" quote.
Good idea. lol
Most people want it now and as cheap as possible. I'm still waiting on someone to call and say I have a open budget so I want it built properly.
@@Conservativeblackman 🤣 right...
I'm from California originally with it's ridiculous codes, but in South Carolina 🤦🤦 OMG you want some videos of what not to do 🤣 just off the top of my head on a job I'm on, used drywall screws to install crown molding and caulked it with silicone so you can't paint it 😂
Sad, but true. And not just a low ball quote, but people who don't know what they are doing.
I used to erect steel frames in the UK. One job I was on, the farmer had another building by another firm recently erected. All looked good until he dug out along side for a road. They had stood the columns up, and then back filled with neat ballast, with one barrow load of concrete round the top. When the farmer contacted the firm, he was told that the cement hadn't mixed with the ballast. Never heard that one before.
Here in SE Michigan, frost line is 42" also. I built my 36x72 pole a couple of years ago with a "puck" of concrete at the bottom of the 42" hole for the post to sit on. Backfilled with gravel. Main thing is to get the posts deep, unlike the build in the video, as a large open pole barn doesn't have perpendicular structure (except at the end wall) to resist wind loads from the side. I've used sonotube piers and post brackets on top for porches where the post just holds up the roof that is attached to the house so no concern about lateral loads. But for a Pole barn, deep post embedment is essential. As for concrete AROUND the post, I poured an interior floor up to the skirt boards and around the posts. No issues there. That is done all the time around here. And you can see in the video that the concrete that was pulled away from the post had a smooth face which would probably allow the concrete to slide UP the post under a frost heave. I say "probably". As for frost heave here, I do have the concrete aprons leading into the pole barn heave by up to 1.5" in the coldest part of winter. They go back down in the Spring. But there is NO movement of the floor (unheated building). I do put a short piece of rebar thru the post a couple of inches up from the bottom to resist uplift also.
Holy cow 42 inches I’m in Virginia it doesn’t get that cold here we have some days at 0 to 10 our frost like is like 18 inches that was code for my metal garage.
He said he was in upstate New York
I am sure glad that you clarified that Cook did not set the posts. I was thinking that looked bad on them with their sign on building.
If the hole reaches frost line and the entire hole is filled with concrete it is not going to heave this is how a foundation works. IN addition adding concrete will strengthen shear force significantly . Have built many pole barns this way. Often will drive rebar through post to then lock into concrete this gives very good resistance to lift force from wind. It is only going to heave if the concrete did not reach frost line.
Real
As a building inspector myself, we inspect the bearing capability of the soil the building is resting on. All pole barns are engineered because the residential building code does not address “pole buildings”. Also, building codes are to buy the occupants time do evacuate a building when something goes wrong. Pole barns are not dwellings. There have been some in my jurisdiction that are called “barndominiums” and are designed to buy the occupants that time and are inspected accordingly.
here in N.C. me put our post in the ground 18" and pour concrete around them. we have a 6" frost line.
LOL I'm glad you mentioned the company that put their sign up did NOT make the mistakes lol. I was thinking it was kind of shady to leave their name in the video, haha
ayo been watching a few of your vids over the days, i really love the format! big projects from start to finish. love it, keep it up
That is not the way to use a string line. If any part of the building touches it, it won't be straight. The right way to do it is to space it out from the posts at the end, like 1" and then use your tape to see if it's the proper distance from the string.
Except it works if you have skill. We've built 100 ft long buildings using string to kiss forms/framing. They're as straight and square as you're gonna get (1/8 off from corner to corner).
@@TheGuruStud With a line riding it, you just culdn't see the (convex) curve,
@@TheGuruStud It might work, but it takes a LOT more time, and its really easy to screw it up.
Great one thanks for sharing
Unbelievable. Good fix. Thank you
Thanks Wingman
Im from northern illinois. Ive been on a lot of wik building jobs in the past. This is how most buildings were done. I dont see much movement unless they were built in a wetland. Maybe they didnt make it to 42" down but this is standard
We have a 48" frost line here so we put a footing under the post 48" down and this is all clay under there at around 30 inches and below.
@@bondobuilt386 would be interesting to hear the story behind all this getting tore up. Who made the call? An inspector? I kinda doubt it.
Same here, also from Illinois (where we have a 42" frost line) and work in construction, and pouring concrete around supports like this is perfectly common and normal. The timbers do not move. Absolutely no idea what this guy is talking about.
@@ev6558 totally agree with you fellas this is some sort of sham, even if you put a concrete wall around part of the building just keep it separate, use a footing, don't anchor it to your poles or anything, tar paper or foam can do that good to go...I just dunno how this guy thinks the pole will not move as he thinks the concrete around it would move? by his own logic he put a sono pad beneath it then doesn't attach the pole to it above the frost line, doesn't wrap the pole nothing pushes soil right over it, why I think its BS, I've built pole building's in the worst conditions, the pac northwest on glacial till, boulders the size of beach balls to tennis balls.. all 4 seasons, easy 3 ft frost line, pour your concrete above the soil line, and go, anchor the pole to the concrete, the wood lasts way longer, no issues if anything moves it all moves at once, the pac NW is an extreme seismic area if this method was sketchy it wouldn't pass inspection. .. this guy makes no sense to me at all, I think he did it so he can easily push his wall up to the poles, why the poles are beneath the soil line is beyond me? why not build the wall anchor the pole to the top of the wall,. above the soil line, with a solid footing its good to go.. at least wrap those posts with tar paper, something.. like to see a real life demonstration of his logic, compared
The best part is the guy who's filming absolutely believes what he's saying..
As an engineer, I would say the concrete placed around the pole would help resist uplift forces due to wind. Uplift forces on a metal building are generally grater than bearing forces of the building. A large building is essentially a "wing" in strong winds. Having said that the uplift forces of frost heave are also real and greater care to not create a collar is needed.
As a builfing designer, I'm very curious to know if an engineer was involved initially to design the footings. As you say to resist the upload forces of the wind.
used to be pretty common to use a mixer of dirt and cement ( dry) to support and anchor the poles which sat on a poured concrete pad. Has that changed?
Most the pole buildings built here have a concrete puck under the post and then backfilled with gravel. putting concrete around post will let the frost have something to grab and it will heave the post. We live in upstate New York so it might be different where the ground does not freeze like it does here?@@johneaton4364
The house was done way different than the garage so I know an engineer did not want that and this should not pass code where we live. @@kevinzep01
Here in Iowa we only put a concrete pad (18"x6"thick at the bottom of a 48" hole x 24" round. Gravel in the hole too just ground level. The rock is to drain all water away from the post.
Joel Clements
0 seconds ago
Huh??? I'm from just north of you in Ontario, Canada. It is standard procedure here to sink posts/poles 48" deep, and set them in concrete. Our building code calls for 12" diameter concrete for 6x6 posts. A quick search of the internet shows that concrete backfill for a properly treated post is commonplace in frost zones - in fact, the town of Milo, New York, indicates explicitly a minimum of 42" of concrete backfill (sloped on the top for drainage) for a pole barn construction. The key is using concrete tube forms, which prevents frost movement (the frost can't grip the smooth sides of the tube).
The main problem here was they were not deep enough and no Sono tube was used but generally here they just have a footer or block under post at 48". I do agree that if deep enough you can pour around post with a Sono tube.
reminds me of 2003 when I was 1st becoming a finisher and I worked for a wack job contractor
Lol yup I can imagine bud
Nice of you to point out the sign was the good guy.
I work for a fence company in New York and the local code calls for two feet buried.
Wile we don’t use concrete with wood post , we do of course use concrete with steel post.
As long as a straight sided hole is dug and you don’t create a shoulder or inverted bell shape hole , we get no heaving due to frost.
Lol concrete guy with the remote control 🤣 couldn't wait to show off his toy lol
I’m in NY. In my area (western my) footings must be 42”, but if you research the true frost line (i have) in my part of the state in reality frost never gets below 32”. It’s lower further north and much higher down south and east, near New York City. And that’s worst case in a terrible winter. Frost line will also be appreciably higher if it’s anywhere near a heated structure (e.g. deck footings are likely to be higher due to heat loss through basement walls).
2ft in Ohio. Unless you live up around lake Erie.
Good job guys!
Thanks
Nice work boys.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Joe
Back in the day in Cleveland we'd build them like a Q-tip made out of treated 6x6 and barrow mixed sakrete around anything that touched dirt and or h2o, (36" to frost). With full understanding that anything short of a mono slab was going to move some. The idea being the sakrete would delay the decomposition of the post. This video reminds me of a bad attempt at that. My Dad built a large multi-level deck off his house over a eroding ravine and 30 ft cliff when I was a little kid that is still in decent shape today - 40 years later.
Them poles weren't going anywhere! Lol!
Seriously though, they are lucky you fixed it up.
Ya they are lucky. What a mess.
We don't deal with ice in Florida so setting a pole in concrete is normal. We have water table and wind issues.
25👍's up BB thank you for sharing
Good job. I'm in upstate NY myself and have seen it done this way as well. I did the sitework for a huge barn at a local dairy farm outside of Amsterdam. The owner had a group of Amish from St Johnsville area come in and that is exactly how they did it! We warned the owner, but he wouldn't listen. I wasn't too impressed with the roof framing either in the areas that weren't trusses. No inspections because they were farm exempt. So I documented everything, I was not about to get blamed for the deep cut and fill I did if the building moved because there wasn't adequate frost protection by the builder!
Keep up the good work! Aaron in Mayfield
Thanks I do not know why they did that in New York with our frost level. Crazy
Hey, I'm not in a NY frost line state, actually I'm in NY South, lol South Carolina, but my question is strictly wanting to know the difference in why one cement pour is better than the previous?
I understand heaving from frost, I just don't understand what you did that would make it different, wouldn't the tubs still push up?
I understand the use of anchors because cement doesn't stick to wood, but the tubs, I haven't worked with them with understanding...
I'm actually building thermal mass earth homes, and I'm so unconventional and outside the box, I depend on metric square foot weight for anchoring 😂 I use sand bags and used tires as load bearing walls right on the ground, maybe a 10 inch footer sub ground level as locked in start, but nothing as in depth of cement and rebar...
Lots of contractors are amazed I can build a fire proof, earthquake proof, bullet proof, termite proof structure you can't destroy, you can try...
Rubber encased steel belt, compacted dirt two foot plus thick, and bull fencing use as chicken wire on both sides holding 4 inches of cement mud finished walls... I don't do lumber framing anymore once I build my first earth home lol...
But I'm interested in all building techniques, I have only been to NY once, on a 5 month run refirb of family dollar stores, Maine and Vermont were so cold I don't understand how you guys do it that's a 10-4 on nope 😂
Thanks for your response...
@@jeromegarcia5396 the bottom of the tubes sit below the frost line. So the frost won’t get underneath the tubes and lift poles. The frost doesn’t lift the tubes it rides up and down along the sides. That’s why it is Code to use tubes now. They used to let you auger a hole in the ground below the frost line and fill it with concrete. In some cases the frost Would lift the concrete because it wasn’t smooth as it is when you pour it in the tubes. Bondo Built actually fixed two problems. The original poles weren’t all the frost line, and it had clumps of concrete around it, which would’ve made the poles lift even more. The original builder could have used auger poles and extended them below. The frost line with a small footing underneath. What Bondo did was even better.
Longer poles…. Not auger poles. Talk to text lol.
@@howlandexcavating Ahhh... Got it... Makes complete sense now...
Bondo! So grateful you are showing this! Recently I started planning to put a concrete wall for the pole barn build I have as a carport. We did NOT pour concrete under or around. We did put a criss cross of rebar to prevent lifting from the frost. After 12 yrs of the build it has not moved. But, I would love to have a workshop
so a nice concrete wall and insulated. I really am grateful you decided to make a presentation on this sort of situation. It is exactly what I need to know and learn about. Awesome! Thank you from Atlantic Canada, 4 ft frost line as well as in your area, 48 inches. 🙏🇨🇦 ☺
If you pour a wall like this put some ties between the 2X10 boards to keep things from bowing.
@@bondobuilt386 OK, noted with thanks👍☺🇨🇦
In the South we dig a big hole, drop the post in, pour dry concrete around it, hit it with the hose, cover, and done.
Yes in the south that is fine. Not where we live the frost will grab it and heave it up.
@@bondobuilt386 Right. I put up a garage in Allentown years ago that required a separate pour just for deep footings. (I didn't know why then and griped about it too!) The guy that did you wrong in the video was probably from the South and thought he knew better. Cheers.
For a residential project or just barn?
@@nextjin For a pole barn like this we might actually mix the concrete first. The dry dump is mostly for fence posts and decks.
I used to use the metal banding between the board as I formed, doubled them up and nailed one down to the lower board and the other to the upper board. did that every 2', and just poured slowly, it won't blow out. did have a 2x12 split in the middle once, so always made sure to have plenty of strong backs. easier to remove the additional lumber and fasteners, and better than shoveling mix back in after it blows out!
Good idea with the straps I also thought that all thread drilled through with washers and nuts would hold it together. Or some kind of wall tie for panel forming.
I have an idea why they did that, it's because they don't understand how frost moves things. Most people don't realize how much the ground moves. It was probably installed by non-contractors that seen how fence posts are done and just assumed it was just a bigger version.
They have been building em like this for 200 years.
It looks like they hired someone who builds fences for a living to build the barn. In the lower states where frost line is non-existent you pour concrete around the base like that of your fence posts to keep them anchored. The concrete also acts like an insulator to keep moisture and bugs at bay longer so your fence doesn't rot in the ground or become an insect factory. Note in the southern states, your worst enemy is spring and fall rains being absorbed by the lumber and the lumber getting soaked expanding and cracking in the summer heat. On the other side of the coin, in the north I have seen this done below the frost line to some success. At the same time there's better ways not necessarily cheaper, to prevent ground rot for your wooden posts.
Ground rot in casement and concrete is way worse. It's treated wood bugs won't get into it but the concrete the lie in the concrete will eat it up.
Ha! The original contractors’ shame should be complete! Good thing real pros like you guys are on the job now!
Thanks Bill
Old school, put pole in below frost fill hole with concrete, agreed bad idea but commonly done in the past
Yes but these were not below frost line ours is 48". these were 24"
@@bondobuilt386 that was just lazy, our frost line is 4’+ here in New Hampshire, grew up near Erie, amazing that build wasn’t falling over already
@@kennethharman2779 probably would have shifted the first winter they lived in it.
Good lord! I hope the homeowner was able to bill the original contractor for the repair. Unreal.
32" frost line here. I recently discovered the 100 year old "addition" on my house had a foundation only 16" down, about one and a half row of cmu below grade. and no footing or gravel. lol. needless to say this was not a pleasant surprise. However, despite many vertical cracks, it never heaved. but we're super sandy here. as my dad says, it may be wrong, but it "lasted this long." There's no end to the nasty surprises out there
After all the digging your guys had to do I hope you had an exceptional safety meeting.
You know we did. LOL
"Better SAfe than Sorry" :)
I’m in the Midwest, we have two safety meetings
@@donchristie420 Nice lol
Just an observation about "Safety".
I come from one of the heaviest industries in North America and I will say that when so much emphasis is put on "Safety" it makes complacency a factor far worse than good habits and knowing your job could ever be compared to.
I used to laugh about the Safety Geeks squealing about safety glasses, proper this and proper that until I realized how much harm it does to talk down to people in such a way.
It turns them off to actual awareness, only to regret not using their common sense.
I will say it gets entertaining at times hearing some of the outrageous stories that are obviously made up and proven otherwise by their own words..
Then again Darwin has some awards left to be handed out..
Here in the Midwest we install 24” sono 36”-42” deep up to grade with embedded post anchors.
As an engineer, I won't sign one plan until running it past the comments section. 😂
LMAO The keyboard warriors and safety monitors of TH-cam. 😀
Isn't it a bad idea to burry those Simpson brackets? Why not extend the tube to grade to encase the 2ft of post below grade or chop the 2ft off the posts and install the Simpson bracket above grade?
I dont want to be an armchair quarterback. I would tend to agree. Time will tell how long the brackets will last burried in the soil. . I would have recommended to cut off the posts and sit them on the brackets above grade. Lot of work. And dangerous.
Exactly! Here in Western Oregon where the ground is wet 250 days/year, I would never bury wood unless it’s a telephone pole or railroad tie and soaked in creosote. No pressure treated wood will survive more than 10 years here under the ground
I think it would be fun to come out and film one of your projects using some magnetic go pro's and a 360 camera; your videos are fun to watch, and adding some unusual perspectives could be fun too. Interesting stuff.
We have the Amish build many barns and they usually place a concrete "pill" at the bottom to set the PT posy on and then concrete around the post
We wrap the bottom 4ft of our post in 2 inch ridged foam sleeve here in Alaska. That helps prevents frost from grabbing the post.
Im sure that helps.
Our frost line is 6-8 feet in Canada, I assume yours as well, 1/4 down crush gravel is what we use above the front line to prevent heaving.
My father would dig his holes and he would break up a cinder block and put in the bottom of hole with some gravel. Non of his poles came up because of frost lol
I live in north Georgia. My pole barn has concrete around the poles. Each pole is over four feet deep with concrete up two feet from the surface. The frost line is two feet.
It'll be there forever.
Just always make sure to be below the frost line....always
🔥the biggest issues with that setup is the weight off building will push the post threw the concrete like sleeve. Specially at the over head door opening with weight on those 2 posts.. great repair boss, u did perfect repair🔥👊🔥🏍🔨⚙️🚜
Actually the concrete was under the post also but the real problem in our area is the frost would grab them big blobs of concrete and heave the post upwards in the winter when it froze and soil expanded. Thanks Jeremy. 👊
@@bondobuilt386 yes forsure.. I didn’t see it was under post.. but ya def a better footing setup way u doing it. Get r done ✅ 👊I’m up in northern Ontario so I hear ya on frost line
I live in the Northwest and we do pour concrete around the poles you'll have to be 3 ft deep typically about 1/3 of the yard for pole
That building is solid as a rock
Somebody greased the inspector's palm
Or it was never looked at for the garage part?
They glipped it 😂😂😂😂
48" frost line on paper but in practice it's like 2 feet. Good video
I like the way you fixed the problem with the post, But I don't like the wood in the curb wall.
I don't like the wood in the ground at all but that is how they build these barn homes. I would have done a frost proof stem wall if I got involved sooner.
👍and that’s the way it’s done, son! 👍🇺🇸
Wow! just left them posts hanging with a glob of concrete? Here in KY we typically put a footer in the bottom, set the posts on top about 3 foot and then pour concrete around the posts which I typically wrap.
Truly unbelievable! I still don't like the way those posts are buried in the ground as they rot over time. And what makes you think that all the other posts that you didn't dig around in the other part aren't done the same way?
Cooks did NOT do this. We checked all posts and frost protected the entire place with foam and burried it.
Its a quick and easy way to put in a covered shed without the worry of your shed getting blown away from wind. At least if frost uplift is no concern to you and you just want something to park your tracker or boat under. That doesn't mean its the correct way, just quick, easy and thus also cheaper.
Yup if frost was not an issue but it is where we live. LOL
You can always go back with non-shrink grout to close gaps at the bracket
My first house (G.I. Bill) was a small 100yr old 2 story in western Mass. Red rock foundation for the house, but the back porch would heave up a few inches in winter and started to pull the porch roof away from the house. Turns out the porch was on iron posts surrounded by a surface bet of concrete. Don't remember if I fixed it before I moved or not.
You guys definitely do things a little different than we do in the northwest
in florida i see that all but we are a foot below sea in the tampa area so that mud suction keeps them in place but how i've always done mine is i'll dig 6 inches deeper than what i need to make a pad then the next day i add around the 4x4 i know i don't need to but i was taught that way
"...it's called a bribe ! hello!? "
The adding the concrete wall after post gets down a lot out my way it’s easy no forms needed. We space the outside form boards so u can’t see the post, and stringers set flush
This is how we put our fence posts in and it actually shows it on the bag. Is it different because it's holding a structure?
Clean work, but not sure I can get behind your method!!! You are still entrapping the posts within the stem wall concrete wall you are pouring. Are those posts guaranteed to never rot out?? just curious
Could you have poured a floor out to a foot from the posts then supported the building on that floor then poured a footing under the posts with wet set brackets with rebar connecting the slab to the footing/stem wall? Basically, a slab on grade with a 2x2 exterior footing.
Typical pole barn footings use a pre-cast concrete cookie under the post, minimum 36" deep or below frost level -- whichever is deeper, and then the post holes are backfilled with dry-mix which will setup over time and provide very strong resistance against shear and wind loads. Without adequate backfill (gravel, soil, and spoils do not count) you lose the structural capability of the footing against shear and lateral loads. In locations with a deep frost line, the post should be sleeved (there are a number of products which can be used) to avoid heaving issues. Not complicated but unfortunately it seems the barn builder didn't do any of this stuff. Disgraceful!!
The 15 years I did construction you'd be surprised how many 'builders' would say this is fine..
And how many 'builders' would cut corners/screw over the customer, just to save a dollar..I don't care if I lived in the dessert I'd have concrete under it..
Weight vs Dirt..
Weight ALWAYS wins eventually..
That's why old houses that used rocks as footers always are super unlevel and always have structual damage from settling/sinking stress..
One of my biggest annoyances is when people still put sand under concrete to save a few bucks 🤢
And tell your worker to stop smacking the damn threads on your jack..😂
Some states,counties, townships, etc don't require inspections on pole buildings until over a certain size
Not sure why you would not have concrete fully around the pole to floor level?
what stops the wind from lifting the roof/poles out the ground?
really interesting video!! Your fix was a variation on the concrete column with wet set brackets at grade you see on midwest pole barn builds. Do they use those in your area?
Most the pole barns here they just put the pole 4' in the ground with a concrete disk or solid block under the pole and backfill with gravel. I think other areas are worried about termites but we do not have them.
Out here in California we build carports like that, post in concrete. Works fine, but we don't have freezing temps either! 😬
Edit: How does the post derive any shear? Seems its only supported by the gabling in the roof trellis? That seems okay. . .but shear at the post foot would be far more ideal.
Probably inspected by the same inspector that passed the house wiring in the home I just bought. I think electrician’s previous job was a banjo stringer.
Surprised you guys do have a demolition style jack hammer.
Interesting. Setting posts in concrete is all we do in NZ. Well up north anyway. Shows importance of knowing local codes. I can’t imagine living where the ground freezes. Eek.
I have put gravel under a post or pole, but concrete was on used on a gate post. Yes they were deep and concrete was well under frost line. I never knew why I did it,now I do.
Wasn't the term pole barn coined because they where made of telephone/power poles sunk in the ground without any concrete? The whole point being as cheap as possible.
If they ordered a pole barn, it seems to me they got what they requested.
Looks like a fence builder built it!
I know. LOL
I would say those diggers are worth their weight in gold but they are pretty big dudes 😂. I hope the boss takes care of those guys!
All you need is a concrete cookie in the bottom
that was cool,thought the big guy had quit?
Why does it matter if the post is in the concrete vs sitting on top? Does it not lift/move either way?
If it truly passed inspection, that's what you call having the inspector in your back pocket.
Amazing what a little palm grease can get approved. I see this stuff every day around here. The majority of smaller jurisdiction building officials here are the local GCs so they'll only give permits to themselves or their buddies and they do this garbage work all the time because it never gets inspected. For the rest, it's very easy and almost customary to pay off for inspections around here. A brown envelope exchanged behind the tool trailer can get you a green sticker and blank CO for just about anything...
As soon as he said they were in New York…..it all made sense🥱
Does circle T charge an extra fee for the conveyer truck? If so, how much?
Pay those guys an extra 10%….
.. fixing stuff is harder than doing it right the first time.
Frost on the post......
Reminds me of my 1st wife.
Truly amazed... my two porches have the 6x6 embeded in concrete. Both my porches have temp supports and will be dug out and redone like how youre doing these. :/
th-cam.com/video/8jzKPLyV8SU/w-d-xo.html If you are going to dig it up do it like this video.
When doing structural, never set your posts IN concrete. Posts should be setting ON concrete with a post base and J bolt. If you see your contract setting them in the concrete Fire them. No matter where you are in the country.
tell me you dont do construction without telling me you dont do construction
@@joshpoe Huh?
@@bigdaddyccm1217 pole barns posts are always set in concrete, never in my 35 years of building have I ever seen a pole barn post resting on top of any tie down. Your comment about structural is kinda hilarous as well. Structural posts are anchored with a tie down like a sstb traveling though a stem wall and footing or deepened slab or sonitube. Engineering pages for these pole barns have never had a detail involving tie downs in my experience.
@@joshpoeu shut that shit down...
@@joshpoeexactly
Unbelievable! Great fix you guys
thank you 😀
That 5 1/2 inch foundation wall going to crack and pull away Fromm posts as the building shifts and flexes with the wind. It will make a good animal barrier.
pencil rod and cat heads tie wall mid span would have been to fancy for below grade. barns are hard to critizize when your taking on water deeper then 2 feet might as well just go shallow or spend the money on strip footing grade beams
Would compact the ground around those post very well, a gas powered compactor, prolly have to add more dirt to level it out, or some perforated PVC tubing for drainage away from the house near the gutter's
Yes we compacted everything here.
I've worked on projects in NYC to Lake George, Thousand Islands, Cuse', Buffalo, Corning and Binghamton. NYC it is almost given you have to give a little graft. Other places, what inspections. Then others, the friggin book as they see it. Still outside of NYC and longisland. the inspectors do their jobs.
Probably could have at least used your hammer and capped a few times to knock out some of the air pockets I'm sure the concrete would have settled a little more
Or a vibrator, those mythical beasts are like compactors and are rarely on a job site..