Recommend cleaning the rust from the caliper (inside surfaces that are under the hardware) with a wire brush. This ensures that the pads are not too tight in the caliper.
Have been following this series forever. Been waiting for those l86 intake swap numbers. I went ahead and did a ported top end l86 swap to mine. Curious what a non ported gains you. That truck is cursed. Always something. With the cam swap it was the heads, now i wonder what happened this time lol . In all seriousness love this Silverado series. You make the videos simple and user friendly for us thousand of Silverado/Sierra owners.
Glad it has helped you out! Nothing wrong with the truck or parts at all this time lol. Just external circumstances but but we'll cover it all in the next video for you!
Is it possible to install the pads on the front wrong?? the outer pad on the inside and the inside pad on the out? I slapped mine on so fast I did not check
Also, before pushing pistons back in caliper take off master cylinder cap and put rag on top of screen. Not doing this may backfill your master cylinder reservoir and overflow on flow or get all over your inter fender well. Nice job.
Here is a tip. Make sure to open the bleeder when pushing in caliper pistons. You do not want to push dirt/rust back into the ABS module. Then remove as much brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder and top it off with new fluid. Last tip, when first pumping the brake pedal, only push it half way or less with each pump. Top off with new fluid and you are ready to test drive.
@715glizzy6 No, it will not. Open bleeder and push the caliper piston in. Once the piston is fully compressed, close the bleeder. If you leave the bleeder open, it will gravity bleed an continue to drip, so make sure to close the bleeder once the piston is pushed in. If you do get an air bubble, open the bleeder until you have solid fluid with no bubbles and then close it. Make sure to top off master cylinder when you are done.
I done this twice with orginal OEM and only got 10,000kms out of a set and I'm definitely not hard on brakes and don't tow. They'd warp easily. So the third set are drilled and slotted all around. It's been two years and no issues. Drive a 17 HC 6.2L with 50,000 kms. Great content and keep them coming. Fan from Sydney Nova Scotia
Thanks for the feedback! Haven't had any issues with mine so that's strange but glad the new ones are working out for you. did you go with stoptech or another brand?
I had changed out my wheel hubs and bearings on my 17 silverado. Watching several vids (not this one) nothing was said about anti seize or thread locker on any of the bolts that I could find. I put anti seize on the break caliper bolts and torqued them to spec and it took two days before my brake caliper came completely loose (bolt gone) from the rest of the wheel assembly. This almost destroyed my wheel and thankfully the 2nd bolt held on or couldve been catastrophic. Moral of the story, i would NOT use anti seize as it sort of acts like a lubricant. Maybe I just got unlucky.
I think you may have gotten unlucky or used the wrong torque spec. Ive always used anti sieze (only a tiny tiny bit tho) and have never had any issue. I did my change 50K miles ago now.
@@TheSundaeDrive I used the torque specs that most of the videos mentioned. No idea what happened. I put a small amount of copper anti seize on the threads after wire brushing them clean of the old corrosion. Never would’ve thought that would happen.
I totally agree. And experience the same situation on my 05 Chevy. My front caliper bracket bolts did not hold their torque because I used anti-seize...instead of threadlocker. Engineers know their stuff. When they call for threadlocker use.. basically threadlocker will keep the corrosion out of the bolt and prevent that boat from loosening up. I believe anti-seize is a good product when it's used in the proper situations. Like preventing a wheel from becoming stuck to a hub. Lot of people use anti-seize on spark plugs. Which causes grounding issues to the block. Spark plugs should be installed dry. (To ground properly to the block)…And wheel lug nut should be installed dry. It affects the torque rating. Hey I'm 60 years old. Been working on my own vehicles since I was 14. I'm basically a Chevy man but I do admired Toyota products. Replace the timing belt on one. Timing chains on my Chevy. A clutch on my sabb.. did the front axles on that Sabb too. My 05 Sierra replace alternator, radiator couple of batteries, old changes every 3 months, spark plugs and ignition wires, rack-and-pinion, power steering pump, inner and outer tie rods, AC compressor and condenser and dryer learned a lot from repairing my AC it's best to pay a professional I spent $1,100 fixing my air conditioning.. because I had to do the job twice. I didn't properly flush all the contaminants out of the system.. so I had to buy another compressor and condenser and flush the system properly.. so that double the cost of the AC repair.. I flush the transmission change the transmission fluid and filters a couple of times over the last 190,000 MI decide to replace the u-joints on my drive shaft. Replace the lower motor for the AC a few times, changed out the rear differential oil.. probably my fourth last year replacing my rear main seal on my engine because it was leaking oil at about a rate of a quart ofoil week.. dropping the driveline and transmission behind.. was quite an ordeal when you just have shade tree mechanic and you're working in your driveway that job was very tedious but I got it all back together after 4 days. All I have to say if you're not mechanically inclined it's best to pay a mechanic.
The exact same thing happened to me. Luckily I was only driving 40 km/h and was able to pull over immediately. The caliper was being held on by 1 bolt and began smashing on the inside of my rim. The second bolt came completely undone due to the copper anti seize on the threads. Never again! Only red loctite on those bolts from now on.
Great video! Did mine today and didn’t have any problems. Took 5 hours start to finish; 2 hrs for the first one just to go slow, recheck the vid, and double check torque specs. The other 3 took 45-60 min each. Rears are much easier as there’s more room in the bigger wheel well and the bolts aren’t as tight. It was absolutely all my ass could do to get the front ones to 170 lb/ft. I also took my time jacking each wheel as my driveway has a slight slope. Could probably do it in less than 4 hours with a lift.
My rear driver side rim produces a lot of what I assume is brake pad dust and it squeak... is that a sign the pads need changing. I have 51k on my 2014 Silverado or should I just leave it alone?
Did U remove the bracket bolt with the impact wrench that you listed here? If it is OK, please let me know there was enough room to fit impact wrench. Thank you.
@@TheSundaeDrive Just did mine Saturday (2016, 1500, 68K miles) and two interesting points- my front caliper bolts were 18mm but the bracket bolts were 19mm... and yep, thread locker. Holy crap, tightest bolts I've ever dealt with, even w/ breaker bar it was just short of impossible to move them. I most definitely did NOT use thread locker when I put it back together and my future self will thank me :)
I dont like all of you that dont live in the rust belt. Getting 75k miles out of a set of pads.. I get maybe 15,000km before i have to replace pads and rotors up here in ontario canada. I park a car, and the next morning there is a fine coating of rust all over the rotors.
You most likely don't have the rotor oriented properly. Try rotating it to a different position so that the retaining. Screw hole lines up. If that doesn't work, you'll need to carefully sand down the remains of the old screw without damaging the hub
holy cow man - either you drive a ton of highway or your brakes have been toast a long time. I would change them as soon as possible. I do not believe any lights will come on. BMW has wear sensors that turn on but chevy does not.
Recommend cleaning the rust from the caliper (inside surfaces that are under the hardware) with a wire brush. This ensures that the pads are not too tight in the caliper.
Great tip!
Have been following this series forever. Been waiting for those l86 intake swap numbers. I went ahead and did a ported top end l86 swap to mine. Curious what a non ported gains you. That truck is cursed. Always something. With the cam swap it was the heads, now i wonder what happened this time lol . In all seriousness love this Silverado series. You make the videos simple and user friendly for us thousand of Silverado/Sierra owners.
Glad it has helped you out! Nothing wrong with the truck or parts at all this time lol. Just external circumstances but but we'll cover it all in the next video for you!
The retaining screw is from the factory, in assembly. To hold it in place on the line only. Don't need to replace them.
Makes sense. I often leave them out.
Is it possible to install the pads on the front wrong?? the outer pad on the inside and the inside pad on the out? I slapped mine on so fast I did not check
Alright let’s tackle this project! Thank you brother!
Also, before pushing pistons back in caliper take off master cylinder cap and put rag on top of screen. Not doing this may backfill your master cylinder reservoir and overflow on flow or get all over your inter fender well. Nice job.
Here is a tip. Make sure to open the bleeder when pushing in caliper pistons. You do not want to push dirt/rust back into the ABS module. Then remove as much brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder and top it off with new fluid. Last tip, when first pumping the brake pedal, only push it half way or less with each pump. Top off with new fluid and you are ready to test drive.
Damn this is a great advise!!! Thanks you so much!!! These are the kind of details that make this kind of work a success or a failure.
I agree. Good tip!
Wouldn’t this introduce air to the system
@715glizzy6 No, it will not. Open bleeder and push the caliper piston in. Once the piston is fully compressed, close the bleeder. If you leave the bleeder open, it will gravity bleed an continue to drip, so make sure to close the bleeder once the piston is pushed in. If you do get an air bubble, open the bleeder until you have solid fluid with no bubbles and then close it. Make sure to top off master cylinder when you are done.
I done this twice with orginal OEM and only got 10,000kms out of a set and I'm definitely not hard on brakes and don't tow. They'd warp easily. So the third set are drilled and slotted all around. It's been two years and no issues. Drive a 17 HC 6.2L with 50,000 kms. Great content and keep them coming. Fan from Sydney Nova Scotia
Thanks for the feedback! Haven't had any issues with mine so that's strange but glad the new ones are working out for you. did you go with stoptech or another brand?
@@TheSundaeDrive I went with EBC and pads, they are expensive but if they last for 5 years there worth it.
Ebc are pretty good. We install them on BMWs all the time.
I went with Brake Performance rotors dimpled and slotted lifetime warranty also, no issues since pricey but worth it in my opinion.
Nice!:? How many miles do you have on them so far?
I had changed out my wheel hubs and bearings on my 17 silverado. Watching several vids (not this one) nothing was said about anti seize or thread locker on any of the bolts that I could find. I put anti seize on the break caliper bolts and torqued them to spec and it took two days before my brake caliper came completely loose (bolt gone) from the rest of the wheel assembly. This almost destroyed my wheel and thankfully the 2nd bolt held on or couldve been catastrophic. Moral of the story, i would NOT use anti seize as it sort of acts like a lubricant. Maybe I just got unlucky.
I think you may have gotten unlucky or used the wrong torque spec. Ive always used anti sieze (only a tiny tiny bit tho) and have never had any issue. I did my change 50K miles ago now.
@@TheSundaeDrive I used the torque specs that most of the videos mentioned. No idea what happened. I put a small amount of copper anti seize on the threads after wire brushing them clean of the old corrosion. Never would’ve thought that would happen.
Yeah that's pretty crazy.
I totally agree. And experience the same situation on my 05 Chevy. My front caliper bracket bolts did not hold their torque because I used anti-seize...instead of threadlocker. Engineers know their stuff. When they call for threadlocker use.. basically threadlocker will keep the corrosion out of the bolt and prevent that boat from loosening up. I believe anti-seize is a good product when it's used in the proper situations. Like preventing a wheel from becoming stuck to a hub. Lot of people use anti-seize on spark plugs. Which causes grounding issues to the block. Spark plugs should be installed dry. (To ground properly to the block)…And wheel lug nut should be installed dry. It affects the torque rating. Hey I'm 60 years old. Been working on my own vehicles since I was 14. I'm basically a Chevy man but I do admired Toyota products. Replace the timing belt on one. Timing chains on my Chevy. A clutch on my sabb.. did the front axles on that Sabb too. My 05 Sierra replace alternator, radiator couple of batteries, old changes every 3 months, spark plugs and ignition wires, rack-and-pinion, power steering pump, inner and outer tie rods, AC compressor and condenser and dryer learned a lot from repairing my AC it's best to pay a professional I spent $1,100 fixing my air conditioning.. because I had to do the job twice. I didn't properly flush all the contaminants out of the system.. so I had to buy another compressor and condenser and flush the system properly.. so that double the cost of the AC repair.. I flush the transmission change the transmission fluid and filters a couple of times over the last 190,000 MI decide to replace the u-joints on my drive shaft. Replace the lower motor for the AC a few times, changed out the rear differential oil.. probably my fourth last year replacing my rear main seal on my engine because it was leaking oil at about a rate of a quart ofoil week.. dropping the driveline and transmission behind.. was quite an ordeal when you just have shade tree mechanic and you're working in your driveway that job was very tedious but I got it all back together after 4 days. All I have to say if you're not mechanically inclined it's best to pay a mechanic.
The exact same thing happened to me. Luckily I was only driving 40 km/h and was able to pull over immediately. The caliper was being held on by 1 bolt and began smashing on the inside of my rim. The second bolt came completely undone due to the copper anti seize on the threads. Never again! Only red loctite on those bolts from now on.
Great video! Did mine today and didn’t have any problems. Took 5 hours start to finish; 2 hrs for the first one just to go slow, recheck the vid, and double check torque specs. The other 3 took 45-60 min each. Rears are much easier as there’s more room in the bigger wheel well and the bolts aren’t as tight. It was absolutely all my ass could do to get the front ones to 170 lb/ft. I also took my time jacking each wheel as my driveway has a slight slope. Could probably do it in less than 4 hours with a lift.
Why didnt you remove the master cylinder reservoir cap?
I possibly did but didn't show it in the video. Always helpful to do to relieve pressure.
My rear brakes squeal when I apply light pressure when going over 40. The pads have life left on them. Any idea what it can be?
You could have a small rock embedded in the pad or something a little harder from the manufacturing process possibly
My rear driver side rim produces a lot of what I assume is brake pad dust and it squeak... is that a sign the pads need changing. I have 51k on my 2014 Silverado or should I just leave it alone?
Your front brakes should have worn faster than the rear by close to a 2:1 ratio.
That would be expected since fronts do almost all the work.
Chevy wear out on the back faster than fronts !
@@davidguill-wt2kgwhy?? Mine did that. The backs went way sooner
thanks for the help! but i kept breaking the T30 because i read the spec wrong. lol!
106 Foot Pounds= 8.83333 inch lbs
Did U remove the bracket bolt with the impact wrench that you listed here? If it is OK, please let me know there was enough room to fit impact wrench. Thank you.
Hey man, thanks for the video. Can you possibly provide a link to the torque specs? Thanks so much!
Is this the first brake job of this truck, at 75K miles? Then it's safe to say GMC recommends thread locker not anti-seize?
Yes this was the first changw unless the owner did it before 19K miles lol. You can definitely use thread locker if you would like.
@@TheSundaeDrive Just did mine Saturday (2016, 1500, 68K miles) and two interesting points- my front caliper bolts were 18mm but the bracket bolts were 19mm... and yep, thread locker. Holy crap, tightest bolts I've ever dealt with, even w/ breaker bar it was just short of impossible to move them. I most definitely did NOT use thread locker when I put it back together and my future self will thank me :)
Thanks for the notes! Size must have changed with the refresh. Yeah, Idk why they use thread locker.
you coated your frame few years ago and I can see the rust went back near the rear tires.... so POR15 is not that resistant?
I dont like all of you that dont live in the rust belt. Getting 75k miles out of a set of pads..
I get maybe 15,000km before i have to replace pads and rotors up here in ontario canada. I park a car, and the next morning there is a fine coating of rust all over the rotors.
Lmaooo that's why they call it OnTERRIBLE brah 🤣
Lmao greetings from Vancouver Island, BC #LEFTCOASTBESTCOAST 🌊
Always us OEM equipment it will last longer than after market junk
Often true!
Thanks for the video, is there any need to open up the brake fluid fill cap when compressing the pistons back into the caliper?
It may make it a little easier to compress. If you do this, put a rag around the master cylinder as some fluid may come out.
Great video
thanks!
Thank you you did an awesome job,
No problem! Hope it helps!
I had to drill the disc screw an now the rotor just isn’t flush an tight what do I do
You most likely don't have the rotor oriented properly. Try rotating it to a different position so that the retaining. Screw hole lines up. If that doesn't work, you'll need to carefully sand down the remains of the old screw without damaging the hub
Dyno video soon?
Update in next truck video. Hit a snag with the Dyno shop so it has delayed it.
Great video
Why clean the rust protectant off. Roater???
Because you don't want it to embed in the brake pads. It is an oily protective which could cause slipping
Lol
Have you made a video on how to change the motor mounts? Where can i lift the motor? To replace each side. Thanks in advance
We have a video showing how to remove the motor but nothing specific to the motor mounts. That does show them tho
I need a Pete. I can’t budge the bracket on the rear
Lol we can all use a Pete 😅
I have a 2019 1500 LD(14-18 model year). I heard you need a brake scanner tool. True for this model year??
Will the brake light and stabilitrak light turn on my dash if its time to change my brake pads? I havnt changed em in the 165k miles ive driven it.
holy cow man - either you drive a ton of highway or your brakes have been toast a long time. I would change them as soon as possible. I do not believe any lights will come on. BMW has wear sensors that turn on but chevy does not.
@@TheSundaeDrive yes lots of higway miles in texas lol brakes do feel normal thoe but i will change em out asap
Dont start your video with "whats up?"
What's up with that!