Just a suggestion, next time call out the socket sizes and torque specs, but otherwise this was an excellent video, good camera work and directional editing.
If anyone doesn't own a good socket and star and star set, and asking for socket sizes? Really? Then you've never built up a toy or should be fixing a daily driver. Then you are not mechanically inclined. Take it to a mechanic.
Most OSHA screws are #2 Philip’s or some Torx tips. Second hint use the old pad to slowly compress the caliper piston. A C clamp or specialized caliper piston tool is most common. Doesn’t scratch the new pad and who cares if the old pad gets scratched, nicked, gauged etc….
Good video. I have friends that work for GM dealers and are techs. They toss the screw that holds the rotor and go without it. They say that when they have asked, they are told it is not 100% required per a bulletin. Also, techs have complained that 2015 and on newer tahoes, suburbans, and 1500 trucks, the rear break pads are wearing completely between 30 and 40 thousand miles; due to smaller pads and proportioning valve type configuration. Not sure why GM engineers have made those brake pads smaller. It’s usually all about expense and gain.
Yeah that's just for assembly or that's what I have been told. They made it smaller so you have to take it to the dealer more I believe. Thanks for watching!
BEWARE: When removing your rotors, the holding screw is one of those star screws for the 2015 Suburban. My Chilton didn't warn me and none of the otherwise instructive videos mentioned it either. Didn't figure this out until I had the car on jackstands and removed the front wheels. Wheels are now back on the car and I'm about to go hunting star studs for my impact driver.
Not every one will have a impact screw driver in their basic tool kit to remove the set screw holding the rotor on. Perhaps an alternative for someone who dose not have to tool.
I use Auto Zone Duralast Gold Ceramic. 59.99 or 49.99 with coupon and lifetime exchange. Don’t use the cheaper ones, Duralast 29.99 they suck and dust all over your rims. Only use cheap type when selling your vehicle.
Have pressed the thump up button👌🏻 Very helpful video ! Thanks very much One question../ last step to bush the brake slowly does the car have to be on?
Gm used cast steel, cast aluminum, or stamped steel for the Tahoe’s and 1500’s around this time. Just depends what the bad at the factory I guess. My 14 1500 has cast steel
Just a suggestion, next time call out the socket sizes and torque specs, but otherwise this was an excellent video, good camera work and directional editing.
I look at this just for the size and it was useless
@@masterdave556 I believe I needed a 17mm or 18mm for the carrier bolts
Question what size for the rotors
If anyone doesn't own a good socket and star and star set, and asking for socket sizes? Really? Then you've never built up a toy or should be fixing a daily driver. Then you are not mechanically inclined. Take it to a mechanic.
Most OSHA screws are #2 Philip’s or some Torx tips. Second hint use the old pad to slowly compress the caliper piston. A C clamp or specialized caliper piston tool is most common. Doesn’t scratch the new pad and who cares if the old pad gets scratched, nicked, gauged etc….
Good video. I have friends that work for GM dealers and are techs. They toss the screw that holds the rotor and go without it. They say that when they have asked, they are told it is not 100% required per a bulletin. Also, techs have complained that 2015 and on newer tahoes, suburbans, and 1500 trucks, the rear break pads are wearing completely between 30 and 40 thousand miles; due to smaller pads and proportioning valve type configuration. Not sure why GM engineers have made those brake pads smaller. It’s usually all about expense and gain.
Yeah that's just for assembly or that's what I have been told.
They made it smaller so you have to take it to the dealer more I believe. Thanks for watching!
BEWARE: When removing your rotors, the holding screw is one of those star screws for the 2015 Suburban. My Chilton didn't warn me and none of the otherwise instructive videos mentioned it either. Didn't figure this out until I had the car on jackstands and removed the front wheels. Wheels are now back on the car and I'm about to go hunting star studs for my impact driver.
Clean your greasy fingerprints off the calipers also use some grease on the brake pad guide or else they will squeak like crazy
What size sockets did you use
How long should the original rotors last? 100k miles? I’ve had too change pads twice.
Depends on a lot of factors but 60k is around right. Thanks for watching!
Good video 👏
Thanks 😁
Not every one will have a impact screw driver in their basic tool kit to remove the set screw holding the rotor on. Perhaps an alternative for someone who dose not have to tool.
I mean it is the best way to take that off and they are available to rent for free or very cheap at any AutoZone. Thanks for watching!
Impact screw driver is low cost. 2023 price is $15-25 and worth the cost.
What pads did you use. ?? Anyone use powerstop. Rotors and pads.
Yes they are great
Love them, quality
I always like to use ACDelco when I can. Buy off amazon and they’re a decent price
I use Auto Zone Duralast Gold Ceramic. 59.99 or 49.99 with coupon and lifetime exchange. Don’t use the cheaper ones, Duralast 29.99 they suck and dust all over your rims. Only use cheap type when selling your vehicle.
Just did mine with gm pads and rotors. It keep getting the occasional squeak in the brakes
Have pressed the thump up button👌🏻
Very helpful video ! Thanks very much
One question../ last step to bush the brake slowly does the car have to be on?
Thank you so much for watching!
No it does not.
looks like your Control Arms are Aluminum ?
on my 2017 Tahoe 4x4 they are Stamped Steel ?
Gm used cast steel, cast aluminum, or stamped steel for the Tahoe’s and 1500’s around this time. Just depends what the bad at the factory I guess. My 14 1500 has cast steel
You didn't lube the pins or the end of the pads. And that plier for pressing in the pistons. OMG
is this pretty much the same for a 2015 Silverado 1500?
Yes
Russian torque spec goodntight
Tight just works no problem
Same question here
Man say what size sockets that's the whole point of watching these videos
Exactly!!! Damn video is pointless if you don’t tell the size sockets or wrench you use
Would have been better with needed socket sizes and torque ratings included
Same for rear?
Very similar! Thanks for watching!
looks like this is a RWD Truck- Not 4WD
Do you have to bleed there system
No, you don't need to open the system so you don't need to bleed it. Thanks for watching!
not surprised it needs pads already gm pads suck ass
Well if you are towing a lot or if you are really hard on the brakes all the time it can directly effect pad life. Thank you for watching!
tooooo fast
Is this the same setup as for 2017 Chevy Silverado?
Yep!