I am BLOWN away at the no frills, get at it, 100% blunt viewpoint, guidance and mentoring here! Outstanding presentation and honestly, gave me insight into 'other' tools I need before I start. This is exactly what I needed to get a visual understanding on the tools to make my reloading successful. I sincerely thank you and with over 6.6K thumbs up, you know you did the public a great service to shared, informational knowledge!
In 1993 my parents bought me a RCBS Rock Chucker 2 reloading kit for Christmas. I've used it to reload countless thousands of rounds of ammunition. I've added a few things over the years, but for convenience, not necessity. Bottom line: that reloading kit has served me well for almost 30 years.
Bought an RCBS Rock Chucker II single stage press kit back in 92. Still use it and everything that came with it today. It is as functional and efficient as it was the day I bought it from Cabelas.
Hindsight is 20-20. Beginners need all the tools necessary to start. A kit gives you enough to start. There are always things to upgrade later and make reloading either better, faster, more accurate or a combination of any of those. There are also new items being developed all the time. A single stage kit is always great to start with. One can always use the press even if they go into a progressive later. One can pull bullets, size, or other functions with the single stage even if using a progressive press for volume and ease of setting up. I have a single stage and Dillon 550 that I use both of in unison sometimes. You only can make good choices on reloading equipment when you have experience behind you having done reloading in the first place. What is good for me might not be what is good for you.
This exactly. I found that exact Hornady kit he’s ragging on covered in dust at a gun shop. The owner gave it to me at cost, so I ended up paying about $50 more than what the press alone is going for online these days. I shoot like 5 calibers and am only interested in reloading a few. One to start, which is 300 blackout. So getting nearly everything in a box, having an ecosystem of stuff I can be sure will work (hornady dies) and still being able to decide if I want a couple QoL extras to start (got a Lyman case prep station for example) I’ve managed to get myself to where I’m about to start reloading. Budget is a factor, as well as certainty of compatibility for a beginner. You’re making a miniature, ‘strike anywhere’ bomb after all. Im already sure I’m going to grow out of this Hornady classic kit, but that’s completely fine given what I paid for it, basically I paid for the scale and press and everything else was free. At this point I wouldn’t have the confidence to mix and match manufacturers, or even choose a ‘harbor freight’ budget option on most things.
It's crazy this is the kit I bought to start two years ago. Solidly built, and just about everything you need to get started. The lock n load system is wicked. I got my kit for 225 bucks off the shelf at my local outdoors shop
I am a big fan of kits for the simple fact that most people getting into reloading don't know what they need or like yet. some need high volume, precision, small space, or room for larger calibers or case forming. even if I had started with buying individual items I would still have spent a bunch of money upgrading when I got into the reloading I do.
@@leifhoklin2681 no. It's that once I began to reload my shooting and gun buying habits changed. everything a bought works fine but the reloading I do is different now than when I started. the reason you start reloading is not always the reason you keep reloading.
It's a great video, but I think he falls into the most common TH-cam trap for recommendation videos. That is, "Whats the best thing for a first timer to buy... Now let me tell you about what you need to buy for seasoned pro work...." I highly doubt that most beginning reloaders are F-Class shooters looking to just get started. Most beginning reloaders don't need to worry about their bump. And if you're trying to get into F-Class shooting, there isn't a kit on the market that is remotely sufficient for the precision you need. Kits are good for beginners. To get them into the hobby and learn what they like and don't. Yes, it's buying something you will likely replace, but it's a lower cost of entrance so it's not that bad. As you learn, you learn what you like and don't like. That's why there are no two identical reloading benches out there. Different strokes for different folks.
Can u get me to a resource on what to buy bare minimum I don't plan on cooking up specific loads I just wanna reload 9 mm and 40 s&w for fun cost isn't an issuebut I am obsessed with being frugal as possible
Thanks this video. I am a dealer here in the UK and was asked to put together a 'Reloading Starter Kit'. I though it would be easy, but it is not. Although I sell a lot of Lee, Redding and RCBS products, I could not endorse any of their available 'off the shelf' kits. I have been reloading for over 40 years for various disciplines, and have a ton of personal equipment gathering dust. My 'go to' stuff gets used all the time. I use inexpensive Lyman stuff for case cleaning. I use a mixture of Lee, RCBS and Redding presses. I use RCBS, Redding and Lee Collet Dies. I use a Sinclair priming tool. I use Mitutoyo calipers. My measuring equipment was all made by my gunsmith before anyone thought of manufacturing it. And last but not least the Giraud Trimmer. If you load a lot, some ergonomics get involved so you actually need to touch things to choose. I sell MEC presses, but do not use them myself. I have a ton of personal Dillon stuff from back in my AR15 and pistol days. It all depends on what you are planning to shoot and your volumes and the accuracy your require. Start with your requirements, then look at your budget.
Can u get me to a resource on what to buy bare minimum I don't plan on cooking up specific loads I just wanna reload 9 mm and 40 s&w for fun cost isn't an issuebut I am obsessed with being frugal as possible
My hand loading started with muzzle loaders, both rifles and cap and ball revolvers. Then I started reloading for my 30-30 with a Lee loader, it was always scary reloading with a hammer. An uncle gave me his old Herters press and all of its accessories. That was nearly 40 years ago. I’ve only added an electronic scale , calipers updated manuals and more modern tumbler’s. Times being what they are I don’t get to shoot as much as I used to, so got into shooting high end airguns and get to shoot every day.
The thumbnail nailed it. Everyone buys the kits thinking they can reload with everything in the box. I personally have been buying each tool separately and have been shooting factory ammo the last year and have just been picking up my brass waiting for that day to start reloading. I bought an annealing made perfect machine and like 7 pilots dec 2020 and haven't even opened the box lol. The AMP hat it came with has just been sitting on my dresser collecting dust
I started reloading after a fellow I knew introduced me to the hobby. Reloading saves money so long as you don't consider the time involved, it can be very relaxing as well. As for safety, first and foremost, no distractions, they can kill you or at best ruin your days for a while. I still consider myself as a beginner, even though I got my first press over 50 years ago. They had kits then, some did anyway. I started with a new RCBS JR press a hand me down beam scale with check weights and RCBS die sets for rifle and pistol I owned then. No telling how many rounds I have loaded over the years. 6 years ago I gave that press to a fellow I had hunted with for many years, we sent it back to RCBS (Huntington) and had it rebuilt, came back a couple weeks later like new, ready for another 50 years and thousands of rounds. What I have spent on reloading equipment over the years has been a lot, possibly in the 10's of thousands, do I regret it, NO. I have loaded ammo for rifles that wouldn't group and got groups down to minute of accuracy at 300 yards. All the things stated in this video are very true, come into this hobby with your eyes open and know it is going to be more expensive as time passes, but having ammo when none other are available is worth every cent you will spend. A press that you screw your dies into is more precise than any of the quick change presses, Wilson Manufacturing in Cashmere, WA makes some of the finest case prep tools available. Make sure you spend time checking tools you THINK you need to see who makes the best you can afford. Don't get hung up on press kits, they work fairly well but are less than what you will end up with over the years, meaning the end quality isn't there for most kits, they sell because new reloaders don't know what they need, in reality it isn't much, like what I started with will work for you a long time, my first powder measure was a kitchen teaspoon, you will get good at that no mater what you use. I have always suggested the beginner find a seasoned reloader to teach you how to do it. Reloading books are a must have, Lyman has some of the best, they explain and show what you need to do to get started after you have some equipment. Check out all the equipment out there before you dive into this hobby. Be safe and pay attention to what you are doing, it can kill you or others if you don't. A Lyman 310 tong tool with a set of their dies takes no room and can go where you go, not the best, but it worked good in the olden times for reloading your own on the range. Finding books that tell how it used to be done will be priceless for many
Thank you sir very informative ! I have been shooting since I was like 9 , 10 years old I'm 61 now I just happened to start getting into this stuff for myself I appreciate you taking the time to and put it out there so keep your Barrel straight and your powder dry ! Patriot ❤
Having a beam scale to double check an electronic scale or to use to get thru a loading session if you have trouble with an electronic scale, is well worth doing, you'll thank yourself many times over in the long run. From the RCBS kit I bought 40 yrs ago, I upgraded the beam scale to a Hornady, tossed the trickler ( i use the Lee scoops instead). No other changes except some upgrades to some electronic stuff for case prep and powder dispensing to speed things up and save some labour, which I should have done yrs ago.. I've bought a lot of stuff over the years, but, I've also loaded enough rounds and shot some guns and disciplines I wouldn't have been able to shoot otherwise, some that the factory ammo is so ridiculous on, that actually saved me enough to pay for all my tooling purchases s few times over.
Just an FYI, but your vid is gonna change so many peoples minds on not wanting to reload after thinking that a kit was all they needed to for reloading.😁
I'm seriously one of those people.... I was so damn close to making the plunge and getting a lee or Hornady all in one kit and now I'm back to thinking why did I take the time to collect these 6 buckets of my own spent brass over the year....
Awesome vid, thanks for the reality check. I'd way rather buy the right pieces now than buy them over again once I got enough experience to realize the difference.
I once owned a CH press that was built like a tank, cost a mint, was a 4 stage and loaded really first class ammo. I now own a 3 stage Lee turret press which loads ammo to the same tolerances as the that CH, cost half as much and 150,000 rounds later is still loading excellent handgun (and some rifle) ammo. I've never had the need for a progressive, but I believe that Dillons are top of the tree, although a friend recently bought a Lee, which I hadn't seen 'in the metal' before....Once we got it adjusted and set up (45 ACP) it seemed to work very well, and seemed to be well designed and solidly built......Time will tell! Yes I have the usual bits and pieces....Lyman scale, Lyman deburring tool, Lee case trimming cutters (almost never need to use those), Lyman case tumbler... Oh and a Lyman lube sizer because I cast my handgun bullets. My dies are all Lee.... I must say that the odd time I have used others' dies of different makes I have not been impressed with them, especially considering the much larger cost than the Lees. Some of my dies are over 30 years old and have loaded countless rounds (handgun) with no detectable wear (yes I have the gear to measure that).... I used to use a hand primer (I had a Lee) on rifle cases which worked very well but the Lee press system is every bit as sensitive and you can feel the primer right down to the bottom of the pocket. I guess the leverages worked out very well......I do have an RCBS trickler that works really well for the odd small batch for which I don't want to reset a measure. My Lee measures throw to a tenth of a grain, checked on both the balance scale .....and a digital that I have, but trust less than the beam one (gravity is more consistent than electronics!).... Oh I have a kinetic bullet puller too to fix up the inevitable occasional goof. Other bits come out of my normal tool kit. I learned what I needed over a period of time, but now can advise newbies on what they need to start with.... It pays to start with something uncomplicated.... Factory ammo here in New Zealand is very expensive. Hunting rounds like 308 etc. run around $50-$90 for 20, but I can load the same amount at home for less than $30 using first class components and a little bit of my time Handgun ammo is not that easy to find (apart from 9mm ball) and the milsurp market is just about finished. 50 rounds of American Eagle 45ACP is $60 retail.... handloads (with hand cast bullets) come out at about 20c a round exclusive of the brass which lasts for many dozens of reloads. Powder here is about $80+ a pound, primers are running $120 a thousand and projectiles such as 150gr Hornadys about $90 a hundred. You don't know how lucky you are in the USA......
I use the 50 year old RCBS beam scale. my powder measure is within a tenth or two and I check every ten or so loads. I drop a charge in the pan and keep loading checking if the beam. I agree that the impact pullers are essential and so are the cheap electric calipers. You can check your beam scale many ways
I like your methodology. I Started reloading with a beam scale but moved to a digital option as my main testing tool. I go for the beam to verify further every few rounds.
I started reloading in 2012. I started by learning from a friend of mine that has been reloading for decades. I reloaded on his Dillon press for about a year. I started acquiring brass, primers, powder and projectiles first. By the time the ammo crisis hit in 2013, I already acquired enough components to load 30,000 rounds of ammo. While loading with my friend in his press, I spent a lot of time researching presses and watching videos. I studied using my friends books. I finally decided on the Hornady LNL progressive press. I reloaded my first round in 2014 and I’ve reloaded over 30,000 rounds over a 6 year time. Slowed down in 2021 as primers and powder have become expensive. I did it more for the hobby. Anybody getting into reloading thinking they are going to save money is wrong. When you factor in time, you’re not saving. So, as a hobby, reloading is very therapeutic .
I’m 1 year into reloading. I still love my redding big boss kit. It didn’t come with everything and I wanted to go fully analogue. Balance scales and powder measuring. Loads of fun and starting with the basics.
Two things for newbies: Be careful on an electronic scale having it get switched from grains to grams. And when you're loading for semi-auto, make sure you at least load minimum powder so the gun cycles. I liked shooting light loads for revolver, but you can't do that with semi-auto. (and stock up with primers and powder in the good times, a lot) Pistol reloading is MUCH simpler than rifle. For pistol a minimum press is a Lee Turret. They have those priced so high nowadays, might as well get their progressive the Pro 1000. Berry's plated bullets make excellent 9mm and 45. Pick a powder that's usually available and stick with it. Working up loads all the time with a new powder is a pain. Accurate 5 is a good one for pistol.
Definitely with my beretta 92fs I reloaded 9mm with CFE pistol from the lowest at 4.9 all the way to the max at 5.4 it loved the 5.3 and gave me 2 MOA at 30 yards. Beautiful gun I miss it
I have been loading since well my gen 1 rock chucker still works. I would recommend the Dillion 550 it is the best all around . One can load one round at a time check powder drops, and work your way up. Dillion makes some of the best presses out there. Also get a Fire Extinguisher.
Almost all my cleaning tools are from FA: wet tumbler, dry tumbler, media separator, brass dryer and I’m happy with them so far. FA is not a one trick pony: I also own their mini digital scale, precision hand primer, hand deprimer, inertia hammer and trickler. They all work surprisingly well. I don’t know with I would trust FA for brass work yet over lee, hornady or Lyman. The only FA tool I don’t like is the magnetic media separator.
@@VincitOmniaVeritas7 same here hand primer, deprimer, universal seating die, case lube, case prep center. I'm thinking of switching to the intellidropper as well
Just found you channel and I wish I had of seen this vidoe before last Xmas. I am new to reloading and went out and got the Lee 50th anniversary kit last year. While it is not a "waste" like you say in this video I am quickly finding that I am not using most of the components. The other thing I am finding on your channel is you are more informative for the beginner. While I knnow some of the terms and have some hands on experience I have found myself coming back to the basics the last few weeks with much more clarity and you are filling in alot of my knowledge gaps. Other channels like the big name reloading channel are great but I quickly become confused with the information and the fact that they may have a more paid review focus to their channel. I really appreciate your general overview and again I wish I had your channel to refer to a year ago when I was researching. Thanks for your content.
I bought a RCBS rock chucker press from a friend circa early 70's, with the purchase came a Herters balance beam scale and lots of other necessities included. After 6yrs the press is good still, bought a RCBS case trimmer ll, the RCBS case prep center, an RCBS charge master lite powder dispenser, and for priming the Lyman E-ZEE prime has worked great. I tried the Hornady one shot case lube and dont like it, so I'm rolling brass on a case lube pad and theres specific caliber holes on one end to lube the case mouth. I also bought a set of digital calipers at the local Napa parts store. For me RCBS and Lyman are the easiest and most affordable components available. The RCBS dies are the easiest for me to set up and use and dont need to be changed every session unless you change bullets. I only reload for hunting and a sparing amount of target practice. Thank God I got all my load developing done before the shortage. I cannot stress enough the importance of stocking up on all components when readily available to avoid the price gougers who are scourging our sport today.
For those of us that have arthritis rcbs makes a bench mounted priming tool so does a couple other manufacturers , I find the rcbs one works well for me and putting the primers in the tubes means your not touching them with your hands every time you go to seat one.
Thanks for the feedback! I haven't used any of the bench mounted tools but I am sure for the guys that have a couple miles on their joints that this might be a great option!
Thank you for making this video. It is a huge help in educating someone like myself who has never reloaded but I am thinking very seriously about it. Again, thank you.
Excellent Video! I am getting started in reloading and I knew at heart that a kit was the wrong way to go. ( i have bought kits in other hobbies and its always more costly in the end).
You are speaking as an experienced reloader. Kits are meant to get people started and they do. They will learn how they want to go as they go along. If you buy what you are describing it will cost much more. Kits are great. I was in the business for a couple decades.
I’m a beginner and I bought the Hornady LNL AP and haven’t looked back. However I also bought the book, The ABC’s of Reloading, so, yea. lol I knew if I bought a single stage I’d of shortly wished I’d of bought a progressive. And it’s merely a matter of reading and taking your time and following instructions. It also helps that there’s TH-cam. Just have to make sure of whom you’re listening to.
The reloading block what I did and got a few for free is I went to my local gun range and got one of them plastic trays that come with a new box of 9mm the plastic tray for 9mm fits 223/556 perfect
I bought an RCBS kit with the Rockchucker press and use nearly all the components every time I load. I don’t use the powder measure except when loading stuff with ball powder. Also, I usually don’t have to use the allen wrench set. 😁 No kit is a be all, end all, but I got mine for ~$263, free shipping. 😉
I agree completely, but you got a GREAT Press, and the other items are quality parts. Even if today you were going to buy the Rebel press kit, which had been on sale for like $379, nothing in the kit "needs" to be replaced long term or there is likely some value there on the secondary market if you wanted to swap something out. At 600 its a completely different story if you didn't have your heart set on a rock chucker and a beam scale. Different strokes for different folks.
Thank you for sharing this video nice job.. I work for a leading reloading supply store and 95 percent of kits we sell are always trying to be returned sorry to say we don’t accept returns on any reloading equipment we try to explain to our customers the fact that the kits are only for Beginners and not for Quality Ammunition it’s kits like this that are responsible for the 90 percent increase visits to the emergency rooms and 40 percent of deaths at gun ranges just make sure you have a responsible friend or relative to teach and show you the right and wrong way of doing things the internet is a bad resource you will never find 3 people that completely agree on anything Good luck
I am only reloading rifle cartridges for casual range time and hunting, not long range bench rest, so, I don't need speed or super ultra consistency in my reloading. My RCBS kit does fine. I suspect any kit would be fine. I find the hand primer tools, as you show, to be a bit fiddly to use, so I prime on the press. It takes a little longer, especially if I drop the primer, but it is sure. The beam balance that came in the kit works well. I don't need an electronic balance. I use the Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. It seems to be tall enough and heavy enough. I started reloading with what is now called the Lee Classic Reloader. It will make shootable ammo all day long at the lowest possible cost. Add a case trimmer and you're done. The dipper gives reliable and surprisingly consistent loads. If you want to try different loads, get a beam balance to measure your powder and add a trickler.
If you are measuring each load, don't even mess with a beam or digital...get a powder dispenser...I have the Franklin arsenal powder dispenser and I love it.....tip...reload your brass in 50 or 100 round lots and keep those together from cradle to grave
my two cents for people getting into this as i too have upgraded nearly all of the reloading systems i initially started with. its almost like a right of passage as a reloader. if you are going to spend extra money on one item, spend up on a trimmer. i started with the RCBS hand trimmer, then went to the lyman trimmer with power adapter. i now have the henderson precision trimmer which performs the steps of trimming, chamfer, and debur all at once. similar system to the geruard system mentioned in this video. i also recommend to go straight to wet tumble. if you know people who have been reloading for years, ask them what they are using in their system currently and why; could save you alot of money on stuff that you would upgrade. all in all dont buy kits and do the research to get your kit set up right from the get go. this may not be the best approach for the price conscious but youll be a much happier reloader.
I started with a Lee Classic Turret Press kit, and eventually went to a MEC Marksman. I don't use anything that came with that Lee kit anymore, other than the press itself when I bulk load pistol calibers.
I just started reloading earlier this year. I picked up the Frankford Arsenal case prep station that has 4 stations instead of 3 plus a trimmer. I then use the Lee threaded cutter and lock stud for trimming because the threaded cutter goes on one of the stations. Works pretty well so far.
Watch the trimmer. I can't get a square case neck from it. Even when "finishing" the case turned 90*. And I'm not talking small variances. I went to the WIlson hand trimmer to square / finish. But after averaging over 1 min to trim, chamfer, debur, I just dropped the coin on the Henderson precision trimmer. I wish you luck with your FA, but if precision is of any concern, be sure to check how square that case neck ends up
I think you missed what I said. The actual trimmer is the Lee threaded cutter with lock stud, basically the same thing as the Lee hand trimmer except the cutter screws in just like the chamfer and debur tools. I am not using a FA trimmer.
One thing I recommend to anyone starting reloading is to have the book for the bullets that they are shooting. If you shoot Hornady bullets, get the Hornady book, if you shoot Speers, get the Speer book.
Awesome vid, thanks for the reality check. I'd way rather buy the right pieces now than buy them over again once I got enough experience to realize the difference.
I started with a kit and still use most of it. As with everything, tools required depend on the job at hand. Yes, once you get more into reloading you will end up buy other tools adding to your bag of tricks. Or as I did, start modifying the kit you bought.
Thinking of reloading? Here’s some tips and warnings from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is not a complete list, there's much to learn. If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It can be fun or it can be tedious. These are your choices. While powder weights and length are listed online for many powders GET THE BOOK AND READ IT. The details in the first few chapters are important. If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. And if we include the time scavenging brass, sorting brass and searching for in stock materials, add many more hours. For a while it was look online an hour a week for MONTHS at a time to find primers. Keep your supplies in original packaging. Keep your equipment and tools clean, properly lubricated and organized. Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. It also counters inflation. While waiting for primers to be for sale in 2020/2021 I had 600 9mm and 200 380 cases ready to load. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them. Some people even wear disposable gloves because nitroglycerine can affect blood pressure and cause big problems. Safety data sheets are available from the manufacturer's website. Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. And a solid bench is good for consistency. Don't even consider using a cheap table. ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals. There is a case length specification with minimum and maximum, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. SAAMI website has great pdf’s for this info. Some reloading books do not contain the minimum case length. ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length. Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass and nickel plated brass cases are reloadable. There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping die you can break the decapping pin. DETAILS, the entire process is details. There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that. ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry. Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round. Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money) NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured. ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both. Always inspect each piece at every step. For instance, just filled 50 cases with powder? Look in them to see they are filled the same. Just primed 50 cases, look at the bottoms, make sure they are all primed correctly, shiny side out, and slightly recessed. Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Keep your resizing dies clean. Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin') People will ask you to sell your reloads. And if there is an incident or accident, you will be responsible. Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem. Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes. Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefore crimp may vary. This crimp variation can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets. A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out.
My Dillon Precision essentials kit came with calipers and a scale. Both seem accurate to me and the scale came with a calibration weight. I use my XL750 to load pistol calibers. For my bolt action guns, I would like to find a reasonable single stage press. While it's clearly slower than a progressive, I feel the smaller numbers of rifle caliber I shoot do not justify the expense of a different tool head and power measure for the 750.
When I started earlier this year, I wanted a Dillon, but none were available. I went with the Lyman Brass-Smith Ideal. $100. It's been good so far, and was able to do .338 Lapua, which some others were not. I almost bought something else but saw it mentioned in some comments that it wouldn't fit, and saved myself the disappointment. It's the caliber that drove me to even start loading. I'm glad I did, because of what he said about out-shooting factory ammo with the .308 & .30-06.
I am sure they are the right choice for some but they just aren't for me. I thought the bushings would work better than they do. I almost didn't by my CO-AX but I am so glad I did. So many struggle with poor tools thinking they are all the same.
I bought into it years ago to buy what you want first time and I have kinda hand picked what I want and then the small things I wasn’t sure I went cheap so I can upgrade with better knowledge as times goes on
I've become a huge fan of the Frankford Arsenal platinum precision scale it's a pretty good more budget option. I have the majority of everything you was showing and completely agree those kits sound good but they come with a bunch of stuff that really sucks and will have to be replaced or dont come with the stuff you need the most. Great video as always keepem coming brother!!!
I bought the RCBS kit 20+ years ago, before YT. With no experience to reload I had to use manuals and some advice from my local gun stores. I still use the Rock Chucker press to this day and I have added some expensive extras that have become necessary.
I got the Hornady kit and I agree the powder trickler sucks as it comes, too light, too short. I went to the dollar store and bought a shot glass and I flipped it over and glued it into the base of the trickler. Gives about 2" of height and plenty of weight.
I went the à la carte way of building a reloading bench, and I think I did ok. My only regret is not dropping some cash on an auto dispensing scale, but I am pretty happy with the scale and measuring kit that I did get. It’s just that measuring out charges takes by far the most amount of time per cartridge than any other step in my process right now.
All good information and the only thing I would add is for the case trimming. I had a Forester and it just sucked, between the pilots and the case length varying with the tightness of the case mounting ring keeping lengths within .008" was a waste of time. The Lee stuff is good but changes with the brand of case but IMHO the best solution is the Frankford Arsenal Power Case Trimmer. It's easy to trim 500 cases an hour, uses an electric drill you already have, takes less than 5 minutes to change from .223 to 30/06, holds lengths to within .002" and is affordable. Can't be beat and you always need a beam scale for checking your other scales, I've had to many electronic scales drift or outright fail.
Must agree with you. A case trimmer is essential. I when for a cheap and slower solution that what you have, but effective for me. I when for the Quick trim with die.
I too have come to the exact same conclusion about reloading kits. You seem to be the only TH-camr telling the truth about reloading tools in general, as the others just seem to be interested in convincing newbies to buy cheap junk reloading tools that are basically a waste of money. OK ok there are actually a few other TH-camrs that give good advise, yet over 90% are spewing ignorance and stupidity. Keep keeping it real!
One shot lube is great on my progressive press. makes it easier to feel any snags in other parts of the loading process. I still use everything that came with my lee loadmaster 9mm kit but it didn't have all that stuff. I did buy a lot of stuff later due to price then upgraded later.
I had done some reloading on my dads single stage press. I hated having to set the bullet seating die up because the lock ring slipped a little. I got the lee 4 hole turret press kit, and it was amazing. I still had to buy a couple things, but having almost everything ready to go is nice. And you dont have to break the bank either. I load hunting ammo mostly. Because 7mm rem mag went from 35$ a box to $80. And i can load my own varmint rounds in 223. But id never reload fmj plinking ammo. Just a waste of primers and its cheaper to buy bulk 556.
I bought that Hornady LnL Classic kit and the bushings and shell holders aren't an issue since I don't load a bunch of different calibers. I still use the powder dispenser, but would like a better trickler and scale. I also use the Lee case length trimmers because they are easy and fast and since I'm not shooting competition, the slight increase in accuracy I might get by going to a different system just isn't worth it to me. I tried a dry tumbler and they suck. I bought a sonic system and it's OK, but I really want a wet tumbler.
Honestly I like the lee kits. Not because they are top notch, but because they get you into relaoding for an affordable price. Nevertheless you are correct and I replace almost everything exept the press itself
You would be surprised how clean and polished one can get brass by using a Mason jar with hot, soapy water and a movie. Save that purchase for later and use the money on more important stuff. Digital scales are nice, but get a balance beam scale first. They always work. Thanks for the vid.
When I was ready to start reloading I contacted Brownells and said what caliber (9, 380 and 223, then 20 gau and 410), what precision (low),how many per year I would reload ( couple thou) if I wanted to go state of the art or just make ammo (just make it shoot) and my budget (keep it under a grand total for all items). Their recommendation, Lee press , powder measure, dies, length trimmer, Franklin digital scale and Lyman manual and and some small items. For shotshells, the MEC 600 jr press. I already owned a micrometer and a gauge block. They also told me that the powder companies have their own load data online or in free catalogs. I am more than satisfied with the purchases and the assistance. I have added a few small calibration weights because I don't reload near 50 grams of powder. So I use a 0.2 gram and a 1 gram. This gets me a check in the range of powder. I also added the lee ram swage, it cost a few, but it is so much nicer than reaming. I use the lee on the press priming tool. One thing about the Lee press that I particularly like is that the handle can be adjusted for length and angle. Doing a resizing step, the long handle and full throw is great. Just seating bullets, you only need a little force and a short distance throw so move the handle up and in. One thing I did to keep it cheap for the first few tousand rounds was hand wet cleaning my brass. I used an empty clean peanut butter jar, steel pins, hot water, laundry detergent and powdered citric acid. Shake for five minutes let sit for five minutes, repeat for an hour. After a year and a half of listening to it my wife bought me a frankford arsenal tumbler!
Great video, keep it on! Although I am not new to reloading, I think many viewers would appreciate a mini-series on "practical" load development, in which I mean not OCD 0.1" benchrest fussing with million dollar tools; but the best effort-to-value precision for like sub-moa of half-moa loads for guys not/can't spend days at the range every week. Keep it on!
You do make a good point. If I could only get money, I spent back on some of the things I have bought. Having said that a kit came with what I needed to start well over 30 years ago. I bought an RCBS kit which did the job. When I got to magnums, I got a press with a larger opening. I eventually got into a Dillon 550B. There have been many improvements in reloading equipment, and I still upgrade to this day. It's not all that bad to have a few back up tools laying around. It's not too bad to sell them either if the opportunity arises. Nice video.
@1:41 Your data point regarding the cost of the Hornady bushings compared to the cost to operate the (superb) Forester Coax press is flawed... For single unit quantities the Forster cross bolt die lock rings are ALSO $6 each, the same price as the Hornady LnL bushings in single unit quantities... There is a $1 per unit advantage buying 12 of the Forster rings over the 10 pack of Hornady bushings when they are in stock.. which relative to the price of the different die sets is an inconsequential amount of money per 3-die set of up to $3 more per set, total, for the LnL vs CoAx. There are reasons to consider the Forster press over the Hornady, but they have similar costs related to their quick change die bushing system and this is really an unfair negative call-out of the Hornady system compared to the Forester. Consider the value of the 500 bullets you get with the Hornady kit (around $200) which usually goes on sale this time of year and you are likely getting the entire kit for less than $140 before figuring out Uncle Sam's cut which is a better deal than even the cheap Lee Challenger kits. For example, Midsouth has the Hornady LnL kit WITH the free 1.2l sonic cleaner for $339 shipped free and it's eligible for the Lock N Load free bullet promo.
Great video. I started with the same reloading kit the hornady lock and load. Yhe only thing I still use from it is the press and deburring tool. And the presses biggest attraction is its biggest flaw. Notice when you are fully sizing brass those dies will move, no matter how much you tighten the bushing into the press.im upgrading to a rcbs summit press. After going through 2x franford arsenal Coakley presses, they are very similar to the foster coax. The biggest issue with the frankford is the screws that hold the shell holder in place: they are about 2mm deep into the cast block. So when I had a stuck brass (not enough lube) it bent the entire shell holder and ripped the screws out of the cast block. Great design otherwise. Also great video. 👍
I started off, mid 80's, reloading for my .44Mag. I was a firefighter, and would take my entire reloading kit to work, and load in between runs. I had a Lee handloader, and my whole kit fit in a shoebox. Since then, I have had quite a bit of reloading equipment find me. I "inherited" a Hornady Projector, from a coworker, who passed away. Dedicated to .45 ACP. Another friend gave me a Hornady Pro-7, that was seized up, sitting in a damp cellar. Dedicated 9mm. By the way, Hornady doesn't advertise this, but their presses carry a lifetime warranty. I called Hornady, about missing parts for the old Pro-7. I told the lady what I needed, gave her my address, and when she didn't ask for my credit card, asked her if she wanted paid. She told me it was under warranty. I told her, I'd just fished this out of a cellar, and wasn't the original owner. Didn't matter. So, I have to give Hornady an "Attaboy!". I resurrected a few other presses from the cellar. My friend told me to do what i wanted with his old stuff. I sold the RCBS Green machine on eBay, along with a tempermental Lee 1000, and made enough to buy a new Hornady LNL (.40, .38/.357,). I checked in with my friend and offered to split the money, but he declined. I ran across a new RCBS Jr. at a yard sale, for $5.00. It was missing a handle, that I happened to have an old steering rod, with the same threading. I use it as a sizing press. It's mounted upside down. It's easier to drop a cast bullet into the die, and push it through, dropping into a bucket under the press, than it is to place a bullet on the ram, and push it up through the die. A pair of Lyman turret presses for rifle cartridges, along with a pair of Lyman 55 powder measures ( $5.00 ea. at a flea market). I have a few more, in various stages of decline, including a Multiplex single stage, from the 50's. So, it doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg to get started. You just never know what press is waiting for you to walk by, and take it home.
Spend your money on a solid electronic powder dispenser and a good trimming system at first. That will save you the most time and headaches. Multiple station press like a Redding T7 or Lyman 8 will also be a big time saver and will always be useful. Everything else can be done very economically.
@@POOKIE5592 Beginners will enjoy the process a lot more with those things and will likely get them anyways. Nothing is worse than case prep or charging cases with a thrower and trickler. I learned on a loaner set of gear which was as basic as it got and those are the two things I invested in when I bought my own setup.
@UC9y2pAnOE7U2wZ6n8Sw3tew Unless you spend $700-800, most electronic powder dispensers have a 0.1gr tolerance. You can get that throwing charges with a spherical powder. I wasn't trying to be argumentative, but an EPD is probably cost-prohibitive for a lot of beginners.
I find myself never using my fancy Hornady progressive press. I just chill and relax with my old Lee turret head. At one time, I only thought it would be cool to quickly crank out hundreds of rounds at a time.
iam sticking with a Lee hand loader for now I may grab a Lee RGB set at some point but the lee loader coupled with the Hornady G2 electronic scales works well was doing .243 now iam loading .30-06 its good fun and the results have been surprisingly good with .243 still to try the Loads ive done for my .30-06 gotta get to the range .
I wish I seen this a few years ago, I went all out and bought progressive and everything you can imagine, easily over 4 grand, i probably use a handful of things. Don’t even use the powder dispenser, waste of money, bought the automatic dispenser. If I played it smart I wouldn’t have spent so much money.
My god I'm so overwhelmed lol.... I just started shooting last year and I shoot ALOT.... For the past 3 months I've been collecting all of my own spent 9mm Luger and 223/556 brass with the thought in the back of my head being that one day I'll be happy I took the time to actually contain and store the brass for reloading because it seems like a really fun and interesting idea.... Any time that I've ever spoke with someone in person about reloading they almost ALWAYS make it sound like it's such an easy process and would kind of poke fun at me "friendly albeit" for my worry of how complicated it seems so I've kind of had this fairytale picture show in my head that once it's time to start reloading and that I'm ready to spend the money to do so that it's going to be a magically easy process and I wont have to worry about making sure I get this all right the first time.... Well, as of today I want to be serious and make some purchases towards reloading.... So, litteraly 1hr into researching what's best to get and what all I'll need to do and learn litteraly just gave me the biggest reality check slap to the face and scared me right off my purchasing "high horse" if you will.... Now I've mentally stepped back to a point that's now even further past my initial worry and concerns. There's so many damn tools and presses and this and that and one of these and one of those you must have kind of scenarios I'm faced with and all of that seems to be backed with a wealth of conflicting information when it comes on a review or "what's best for me" basis..... Super overwhelmed and now wondering if I'll even take the plunge anymore into this hobby.... I know that's like the worst possible attitude to have but the last thing I want to do is do what the guy says in the beginning of the video and buy a set that I'll quickly regret and it seems the only way to counter that situation is with lots and lots more moniez lol....
I always tell anyone who is just starting out reloading to buy a couple of reloading manuals first. Make sure one of them is the Lyman reloading manual. The Lyman manual is the beginers best friend with really well written instructions and good illistrations. If you can it is a good idea to start reloading with someone who has done it for awhile. They can show you the steps it takes and explain why they are using which ever tools they are using. They may even have some outgrown tools they would be willing to sell. I have found a few bargains on reloading tools at estate auctions and even flea markets. (Always buy anything electronic new if you can't test it.) Looking at the calibers you mentioned...If your going to be loading in quantity get a press that is progressive. I chose the Dillon RL-550 B because it is progressive but can also be used as a single stage press.
From my experience, brand loyalty is not a good idea: every manufacturer have tools with good and bad designs. If you read the product reviews before buying new tools you will naturally diversify your brands. The only brand that consistently gets bad reviews is Forster (their tools do not appear to be at the same level of their famous press). My reloading bench looks like a fruit salad: red (Hornady/Lee), orange (Lyman), green (Redding/RCBS) and blue (Dillon/Frankford Arsenal).
Have been doing this since 1973 My first was a 'Tong tool' it loaded my 38 spl ammo good enough at the time. Next was my RCBS kit. Rock chucker. I still use it all the time. I have spent thousands maybe on stuff I never needed or was junk. Want to prime cases? for me a hand primer is the best. I have several. if the chuck is universal? so much the better. Back then there were no real carbide dies and the set came with a pad to roll cases on. Now? they have sprays that work great. The scale.... I still user it. in fact it is the only thing I use. On that... the powder measure..... it is great... I also have an old Redding one. One is for pistol and the other for rifle. both are 'micrometer' would have nothing else. Trimming. Have wasted most on that. they tend to trim uneven. But? The Lee zip trim is like $20 and the most accurate trimmer I have ever used. and yes... I have bought the electric ones that look like they belong in a machine shop. You can add stuff like factory crimp dies and "M' dies for cast slugs but do it a little at a time.
I personally liked my kit it was enough to get me started, I think people get stuck on brands to much on my reloading bench I have lee,rcbs,hornady, lol but I do recommend people to get more than 1 case holder, and spares I often needed one and it stopped me from shooting all because a tiny part
I don't remember if I bought a kit or not. I do know that I preferred Redding over RCBS, so that's the press, scale, powder measure that I have. I do wish I had a Forster co-ax press, not needing so many shell holders is very nice. I need something for hand priming and case trimming.
I started with the hornady kit as well. The scale is terribly inconsistent and was replaced after my first reloading session. I have Lyman reamers and chamfers.
When you're starting out reloading, you don't need t spend a small fortune with all the latest " gadgets" as most won't have a clue what to do !! I purchased an RCBS kit in 1982, did it have everything I use today " No ", but for many years it made great ammo and still does today, I still shoot BR and I have shot long-range, not world-class but a hell of a lot of fun. If you have and shoot a $5k rifle, with a $3k scope you maybe need a Mark 7 press, AMP annealer, and all the latest gadgets like a Giraud trimmer just to name a few !!
If I had to buy every tool I have now, at that time, I would be another Joe Schmo wishing for ammo to hit the shelves again. The starter kit allowed me to load for the first 2 years. Economical tools were used until I could save up for the proper tools I wanted. It also allowed me to stock up on Primers, Bullets, and Powders (which is a true blessing right now). I would have never been able to buy a Giraud Trimmer, Co-Ax Press, Bench Source Annealer, Lyman Wet Tumbler, RCBS bench primer seater, Auto Trickler V3, 120i scale, several tinitride bushings, Forster competition Seater die, Redding S-Type Sizing die, Mighty Armory decanting die, the many other tools I now have, 10k+ bullets, 10k+ primers, 30lbs+ of powder all at once. That's totally unrealistic for me and the many individuals that don't have that kind of bread. I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker kit, 1 pound of H4350, 200 Federal Large Rifle Primers, 142gr Accubond LR (200 count), Frankford Media Shaker Tumbler thing, Lyman hand trimming tools with "Power Adapters", and basic RCBS dies. I was fortunate enough to sell my old starter kit to a buddy a year ago-along with Primers, Bullets, and powder when none were available. We all can't start with the best reloading tools, custom rifles, Nightforce/Leopold/Kahles/Schmidt & Bender/ or other high end scopes, high dollar rests/bipods, and other accessories. The never ending battle of Reloading Equipment VS More Firearms is a harsh reality a lot of us struggle with.
I have worked at musical instrument factory. Annealing brass is achieved at 1100 degrees , this temperature will make brass soft. Stress relief of brass is achieved at 450 degrees. Stress reliefing processes take one hour, this will take the hardness out of the brass, but it will not soften brass.
Sometimes you can find good deals on old made in the USA Ohaus/rcbs scales that are waaaaaaaaaay better than the current crop of beam scales. I use check weights to zero the scale to my charge. I have a chargemaster lite, I like it for load development, it's faster than you think, but it's slower than you think lol
I started out with an old lee reloading kit. it came in a small box, a little bit larger than a deck of cards. you had to have a small hammer. the rest was there, if you had powder scoops. I hated it so I got an rcbs press, then a scale and a vibratory cleaner..... I guess I went at it the old fashioned way. starts with less and get more. by now I have a pick up truck load of stuff. case trimmers and tricklers.... I ddont use most of it, but I have it.
Vibratory tumblers are great..... but you need to add Flitz it em cause the media just stops working in short time. Tumble for 6 hours and they are still dirty. Add a little flitz before hand? like new brass.... seriously new looking in a few short hours. Dillon case lube is where it is at. pie pan with say 20 cases.. spritz a little and then shake em around. I keep a rag on my lap to wipe off the lube as soon as I size the case. it does wipe clean easily.
I.agree on lee products bought my pro 1000 in 89 I think lee dies the best but that's my preference I use the lee scoops and pro powder measures The scoops are accurate We calibrate ordinance scales where I work
Excellent video to get the beginner off and running. Not to debate but I started with an RCBS "kit" and.......like you say, I use very little of it today, lol. But I still use the heck out the press. Probably time to upgrade, lol.
I bought the classic kit on sale and love it. Not sure I would of bought it if it wasn’t on sale and if it didn’t include 500 free bullets. I was disappointed in the fact the stand for the powder dispenser wasn’t included nor a caliper. Other then that very happy with the kit.
I bought the LEE PRECISION Anniversary Challenger Kit about 7 years ago. It had everything I needed except for the dies, primers, and powder. I did not need to trim my brass as I was only reloading 38 special, 357 mag, and 45ACP. This kit was the best option, IMO. I would do it again. Don't under estimate the kit from Lee. I just started reloading 223, so I have purchased a Franklin Arsenal Platinum Series Rotary Tumbler 7L, and their Platinum Series Case Trim and Prep Center, and a set of Lee Ultimate die set for .223. Lee may not be the top end of reloading, but they sure make a damn good product for anyone wanting to get into reloading on a budget. I do believe that some of their dies have made some world class loads, if you look it up. NO, I do not work for LEE, I just know what my experience is with their product.
Also started and kept working with Lee progressive press. Works fine. I loaded so far 9mm, .38Sp and .45ACP on the Lee but I us a 6 die Turret press by RCBS on more peculiar calibers. For the case cleaning, I manufactured my own tumbler based on the Franklin Arsenal concept.
Kits are fine for getting started. I loaded my first 20,000 rounds of 45 when I was young and poor with a whole lot less than what came in that kit and I spent a lot more than what that kit cost to get started.
I got my first RCBS reloading press and part's I need at Walmart 4 years ago and got Federal fusion bonded soft point in 308 and 243 for me and my kids we are big 30 caliber family so I don't got to get a hole lot more money in it so far.
Oh... I have a lot of manuals. you would be surprised at how much they vary in load data... The online versions I go to a lot. I did get a Lee press and manual deal LOL.... like $25 for both and I use the press for light work like.... a fourth station.... factory crimp... that sort of thing. Nothing heavy. The old RCBS is 50 years old and going strong.
I’d add a bullet puller. It will pay for itself pretty quickly the first time you make a mistake with a batch. And a good one from Hornady or Frankfort only runs 16 or 17 bucks.
As someone who reloaded thousands of shotgun shells in the 70's, 80's and 90's and did reload some rifle stuff too but not that much when I thought about reloading again lately and could find no where to get the primers my reloaders sit packed away.
With the trickler just fill the bottom with heavy small nuts & bolts and ducktape the bottom. Problem solved. With the powder funnel go to the dollar store and buy smaller $1 funnels , cut a small part of the drain part off and insert into the mouth of the Hornady funnel and crazy glue it in. Now the funnel will fit nicely on 223 necks.
I would like to say if you are a hunter and not in competition shooting and you reload for three calibers and 300 rounds a year or there about this Hornady kit will be 90% of what you need. If you are a reloader and reload on this scale I would highly recommend lee there is nothing wrong with lee dies.
Need help picking out equipment check out this playlist: th-cam.com/video/xHUoHEAJh3o/w-d-xo.html
Why don't you just put a whole Super Kit together and sell it for an additional cost? Worth the $$.
I am BLOWN away at the no frills, get at it, 100% blunt viewpoint, guidance and mentoring here! Outstanding presentation and honestly, gave me insight into 'other' tools I need before I start. This is exactly what I needed to get a visual understanding on the tools to make my reloading successful. I sincerely thank you and with over 6.6K thumbs up, you know you did the public a great service to shared, informational knowledge!
In 1993 my parents bought me a RCBS Rock Chucker 2 reloading kit for Christmas. I've used it to reload countless thousands of rounds of ammunition. I've added a few things over the years, but for convenience, not necessity. Bottom line: that reloading kit has served me well for almost 30 years.
Agree. most additions are more convince rather than a necessity. 👍
Have a rebel coming in by RCBS. Looking forward to it.
Bought an RCBS Rock Chucker II single stage press kit back in 92. Still use it and everything that came with it today. It is as functional and efficient as it was the day I bought it from Cabelas.
Totally agree if you get what you need to done it works fine. I upgraded a couple things but I think buying a kit is best lol great starting point
Hindsight is 20-20. Beginners need all the tools necessary to start. A kit gives you enough to start. There are always things to upgrade later and make reloading either better, faster, more accurate or a combination of any of those. There are also new items being developed all the time. A single stage kit is always great to start with. One can always use the press even if they go into a progressive later. One can pull bullets, size, or other functions with the single stage even if using a progressive press for volume and ease of setting up. I have a single stage and Dillon 550 that I use both of in unison sometimes. You only can make good choices on reloading equipment when you have experience behind you having done reloading in the first place. What is good for me might not be what is good for you.
This exactly. I found that exact Hornady kit he’s ragging on covered in dust at a gun shop. The owner gave it to me at cost, so I ended up paying about $50 more than what the press alone is going for online these days. I shoot like 5 calibers and am only interested in reloading a few. One to start, which is 300 blackout. So getting nearly everything in a box, having an ecosystem of stuff I can be sure will work (hornady dies) and still being able to decide if I want a couple QoL extras to start (got a Lyman case prep station for example) I’ve managed to get myself to where I’m about to start reloading. Budget is a factor, as well as certainty of compatibility for a beginner. You’re making a miniature, ‘strike anywhere’ bomb after all. Im already sure I’m going to grow out of this Hornady classic kit, but that’s completely fine given what I paid for it, basically I paid for the scale and press and everything else was free. At this point I wouldn’t have the confidence to mix and match manufacturers, or even choose a ‘harbor freight’ budget option on most things.
I built my own kit with good brands that will last me, definitely better to build your own.
It's crazy this is the kit I bought to start two years ago. Solidly built, and just about everything you need to get started. The lock n load system is wicked. I got my kit for 225 bucks off the shelf at my local outdoors shop
I am a big fan of kits for the simple fact that most people getting into reloading don't know what they need or like yet. some need high volume, precision, small space, or room for larger calibers or case forming. even if I had started with buying individual items I would still have spent a bunch of money upgrading when I got into the reloading I do.
That’s why you research before you buy crap.
@@leifhoklin2681 no. It's that once I began to reload my shooting and gun buying habits changed. everything a bought works fine but the reloading I do is different now than when I started. the reason you start reloading is not always the reason you keep reloading.
It's a great video, but I think he falls into the most common TH-cam trap for recommendation videos. That is, "Whats the best thing for a first timer to buy... Now let me tell you about what you need to buy for seasoned pro work...." I highly doubt that most beginning reloaders are F-Class shooters looking to just get started. Most beginning reloaders don't need to worry about their bump. And if you're trying to get into F-Class shooting, there isn't a kit on the market that is remotely sufficient for the precision you need. Kits are good for beginners. To get them into the hobby and learn what they like and don't. Yes, it's buying something you will likely replace, but it's a lower cost of entrance so it's not that bad. As you learn, you learn what you like and don't like. That's why there are no two identical reloading benches out there. Different strokes for different folks.
Can u get me to a resource on what to buy bare minimum I don't plan on cooking up specific loads I just wanna reload 9 mm and 40 s&w for fun cost isn't an issuebut I am obsessed with being frugal as possible
Honestly buy a reloading boom that will give you an easy run down. But if reloading those calibers lee turret press over single stage
Thanks this video. I am a dealer here in the UK and was asked to put together a 'Reloading Starter Kit'. I though it would be easy, but it is not. Although I sell a lot of Lee, Redding and RCBS products, I could not endorse any of their available 'off the shelf' kits. I have been reloading for over 40 years for various disciplines, and have a ton of personal equipment gathering dust. My 'go to' stuff gets used all the time. I use inexpensive Lyman stuff for case cleaning. I use a mixture of Lee, RCBS and Redding presses. I use RCBS, Redding and Lee Collet Dies. I use a Sinclair priming tool. I use Mitutoyo calipers. My measuring equipment was all made by my gunsmith before anyone thought of manufacturing it. And last but not least the Giraud Trimmer. If you load a lot, some ergonomics get involved so you actually need to touch things to choose. I sell MEC presses, but do not use them myself. I have a ton of personal Dillon stuff from back in my AR15 and pistol days. It all depends on what you are planning to shoot and your volumes and the accuracy your require. Start with your requirements, then look at your budget.
Can u get me to a resource on what to buy bare minimum I don't plan on cooking up specific loads I just wanna reload 9 mm and 40 s&w for fun cost isn't an issuebut I am obsessed with being frugal as possible
Lee makes some of the best gear period.that kit will outperform most reloaders ambition 👌🇺🇸
My hand loading started with muzzle loaders, both rifles and cap and ball revolvers. Then I started reloading for my 30-30 with a Lee loader, it was always scary reloading with a hammer. An uncle gave me his old Herters press and all of its accessories. That was nearly 40 years ago. I’ve only added an electronic scale , calipers updated manuals and more modern tumbler’s. Times being what they are I don’t get to shoot as much as I used to, so got into shooting high end airguns and get to shoot every day.
The first reloading item to buy is reloading manual. Read it cover to cover, twice! I recommend the Lee book. It includes history, how-to and facts.
Nobody reads a manual cover to cover have you even taken driver’s ed?
The thumbnail nailed it. Everyone buys the kits thinking they can reload with everything in the box. I personally have been buying each tool separately and have been shooting factory ammo the last year and have just been picking up my brass waiting for that day to start reloading. I bought an annealing made perfect machine and like 7 pilots dec 2020 and haven't even opened the box lol. The AMP hat it came with has just been sitting on my dresser collecting dust
I started reloading after a fellow I knew introduced me to the hobby. Reloading saves money so long as you don't consider the time involved, it can be very relaxing as well. As for safety, first and foremost, no distractions, they can kill you or at best ruin your days for a while. I still consider myself as a beginner, even though I got my first press over 50 years ago. They had kits then, some did anyway. I started with a new RCBS JR press a hand me down beam scale with check weights and RCBS die sets for rifle and pistol I owned then. No telling how many rounds I have loaded over the years. 6 years ago I gave that press to a fellow I had hunted with for many years, we sent it back to RCBS (Huntington) and had it rebuilt, came back a couple weeks later like new, ready for another 50 years and thousands of rounds. What I have spent on reloading equipment over the years has been a lot, possibly in the 10's of thousands, do I regret it, NO. I have loaded ammo for rifles that wouldn't group and got groups down to minute of accuracy at 300 yards. All the things stated in this video are very true, come into this hobby with your eyes open and know it is going to be more expensive as time passes, but having ammo when none other are available is worth every cent you will spend. A press that you screw your dies into is more precise than any of the quick change presses, Wilson Manufacturing in Cashmere, WA makes some of the finest case prep tools available. Make sure you spend time checking tools you THINK you need to see who makes the best you can afford. Don't get hung up on press kits, they work fairly well but are less than what you will end up with over the years, meaning the end quality isn't there for most kits, they sell because new reloaders don't know what they need, in reality it isn't much, like what I started with will work for you a long time, my first powder measure was a kitchen teaspoon, you will get good at that no mater what you use. I have always suggested the beginner find a seasoned reloader to teach you how to do it. Reloading books are a must have, Lyman has some of the best, they explain and show what you need to do to get started after you have some equipment. Check out all the equipment out there before you dive into this hobby. Be safe and pay attention to what you are doing, it can kill you or others if you don't. A Lyman 310 tong tool with a set of their dies takes no room and can go where you go, not the best, but it worked good in the olden times for reloading your own on the range. Finding books that tell how it used to be done will be priceless for many
Thank you sir very informative ! I have been shooting since I was like 9 , 10 years old I'm 61 now I just happened to start getting into this stuff for myself I appreciate you taking the time to and put it out there so keep your Barrel straight and your powder dry ! Patriot ❤
Stuck case remover, buy it so youll never need it! Best line of the video!
Murphys law. I wish I could say I've never used mine.
@@BoltActionReloading I still havent bought one... But Ive used my buddies a couple of times :)
Having a beam scale to double check an electronic scale or to use to get thru a loading session if you have trouble with an electronic scale, is well worth doing, you'll thank yourself many times over in the long run. From the RCBS kit I bought 40 yrs ago, I upgraded the beam scale to a Hornady, tossed the trickler ( i use the Lee scoops instead). No other changes except some upgrades to some electronic stuff for case prep and powder dispensing to speed things up and save some labour, which I should have done yrs ago.. I've bought a lot of stuff over the years, but, I've also loaded enough rounds and shot some guns and disciplines I wouldn't have been able to shoot otherwise, some that the factory ammo is so ridiculous on, that actually saved me enough to pay for all my tooling purchases s few times over.
All you need to check an electronic scale is the weights lol. You don’t need two scales
@@Lexidezi225 a beam scale serves as a back up and a reference. Might as well buy something with two purposes instead of one.
Just an FYI, but your vid is gonna change so many peoples minds on not wanting to reload after thinking that a kit was all they needed to for reloading.😁
I'm seriously one of those people.... I was so damn close to making the plunge and getting a lee or Hornady all in one kit and now I'm back to thinking why did I take the time to collect these 6 buckets of my own spent brass over the year....
@@TerminalM193 sell your brass to your local range
Dam back to square root one again.
Awesome vid, thanks for the reality check. I'd way rather buy the right pieces now than buy them over again once I got enough experience to realize the difference.
No, nothing changes peoples minds it’s just another challenge
Started with a Lee kit. 30 years later, still have that kit in use. Along with two more Lee presses and a million rounds of experience & equipment
I once owned a CH press that was built like a tank, cost a mint, was a 4 stage and loaded really first class ammo. I now own a 3 stage Lee turret press which loads ammo to the same tolerances as the that CH, cost half as much and 150,000 rounds later is still loading excellent handgun (and some rifle) ammo. I've never had the need for a progressive, but I believe that Dillons are top of the tree, although a friend recently bought a Lee, which I hadn't seen 'in the metal' before....Once we got it adjusted and set up (45 ACP) it seemed to work very well, and seemed to be well designed and solidly built......Time will tell!
Yes I have the usual bits and pieces....Lyman scale, Lyman deburring tool, Lee case trimming cutters (almost never need to use those), Lyman case tumbler... Oh and a Lyman lube sizer because I cast my handgun bullets. My dies are all Lee.... I must say that the odd time I have used others' dies of different makes I have not been impressed with them, especially considering the much larger cost than the Lees. Some of my dies are over 30 years old and have loaded countless rounds (handgun) with no detectable wear (yes I have the gear to measure that)....
I used to use a hand primer (I had a Lee) on rifle cases which worked very well but the Lee press system is every bit as sensitive and you can feel the primer right down to the bottom of the pocket. I guess the leverages worked out very well......I do have an RCBS trickler that works really well for the odd small batch for which I don't want to reset a measure. My Lee measures throw to a tenth of a grain, checked on both the balance scale .....and a digital that I have, but trust less than the beam one (gravity is more consistent than electronics!).... Oh I have a kinetic bullet puller too to fix up the inevitable occasional goof.
Other bits come out of my normal tool kit.
I learned what I needed over a period of time, but now can advise newbies on what they need to start with.... It pays to start with something uncomplicated....
Factory ammo here in New Zealand is very expensive. Hunting rounds like 308 etc. run around $50-$90 for 20, but I can load the same amount at home for less than $30 using first class components and a little bit of my time Handgun ammo is not that easy to find (apart from 9mm ball) and the milsurp market is just about finished. 50 rounds of American Eagle 45ACP is $60 retail.... handloads (with hand cast bullets) come out at about 20c a round exclusive of the brass which lasts for many dozens of reloads.
Powder here is about $80+ a pound, primers are running $120 a thousand and projectiles such as 150gr Hornadys about $90 a hundred.
You don't know how lucky you are in the USA......
I use the 50 year old RCBS beam scale. my powder measure is within a tenth or two and I check every ten or so loads. I drop a charge in the pan and keep loading checking if the beam. I agree that the impact pullers are essential and so are the cheap electric calipers. You can check your beam scale many ways
I like your methodology. I Started reloading with a beam scale but moved to a digital option as my main testing tool. I go for the beam to verify further every few rounds.
I started reloading in 2012. I started by learning from a friend of mine that has been reloading for decades. I reloaded on his Dillon press for about a year. I started acquiring brass, primers, powder and projectiles first. By the time the ammo crisis hit in 2013, I already acquired enough components to load 30,000 rounds of ammo. While loading with my friend in his press, I spent a lot of time researching presses and watching videos. I studied using my friends books. I finally decided on the Hornady LNL progressive press. I reloaded my first round in 2014 and I’ve reloaded over 30,000 rounds over a 6 year time. Slowed down in 2021 as primers and powder have become expensive. I did it more for the hobby. Anybody getting into reloading thinking they are going to save money is wrong. When you factor in time, you’re not saving. So, as a hobby, reloading is very therapeutic .
I’m 1 year into reloading. I still love my redding big boss kit. It didn’t come with everything and I wanted to go fully analogue. Balance scales and powder measuring. Loads of fun and starting with the basics.
Two things for newbies: Be careful on an electronic scale having it get switched from grains to grams. And when you're loading for semi-auto, make sure you at least load minimum powder so the gun cycles. I liked shooting light loads for revolver, but you can't do that with semi-auto. (and stock up with primers and powder in the good times, a lot) Pistol reloading is MUCH simpler than rifle. For pistol a minimum press is a Lee Turret. They have those priced so high nowadays, might as well get their progressive the Pro 1000. Berry's plated bullets make excellent 9mm and 45. Pick a powder that's usually available and stick with it. Working up loads all the time with a new powder is a pain. Accurate 5 is a good one for pistol.
Definitely with my beretta 92fs I reloaded 9mm with CFE pistol from the lowest at 4.9 all the way to the max at 5.4 it loved the 5.3 and gave me 2 MOA at 30 yards. Beautiful gun I miss it
My sentiments exactly first time people buying kits are just wasting money on shit they don’t need you are spot on great video!
I have been loading since well my gen 1 rock chucker still works. I would recommend the Dillion 550 it is the best all around . One can load one round at a time check powder drops, and work your way up. Dillion makes some of the best presses out there.
Also get a Fire Extinguisher.
I've had nothing but great experiences with Franford Arsenal, I own almost all their products. And customer service is amazing as well
Almost all my cleaning tools are from FA: wet tumbler, dry tumbler, media separator, brass dryer and I’m happy with them so far.
FA is not a one trick pony: I also own their mini digital scale, precision hand primer, hand deprimer, inertia hammer and trickler. They all work surprisingly well.
I don’t know with I would trust FA for brass work yet over lee, hornady or Lyman.
The only FA tool I don’t like is the magnetic media separator.
@@VincitOmniaVeritas7 same here hand primer, deprimer, universal seating die, case lube, case prep center.
I'm thinking of switching to the intellidropper as well
Just found you channel and I wish I had of seen this vidoe before last Xmas. I am new to reloading and went out and got the Lee 50th anniversary kit last year. While it is not a "waste" like you say in this video I am quickly finding that I am not using most of the components. The other thing I am finding on your channel is you are more informative for the beginner. While I knnow some of the terms and have some hands on experience I have found myself coming back to the basics the last few weeks with much more clarity and you are filling in alot of my knowledge gaps. Other channels like the big name reloading channel are great but I quickly become confused with the information and the fact that they may have a more paid review focus to their channel. I really appreciate your general overview and again I wish I had your channel to refer to a year ago when I was researching. Thanks for your content.
I bought a RCBS rock chucker press from a friend circa early 70's, with the purchase came a Herters balance beam scale and lots of other necessities included.
After 6yrs the press is good still, bought a RCBS case trimmer ll, the RCBS case prep center, an RCBS charge master lite powder dispenser, and for priming the Lyman E-ZEE prime has worked great. I tried the Hornady one shot case lube and dont like it, so I'm rolling brass on a case lube pad and theres specific caliber holes on one end to lube the case mouth.
I also bought a set of digital calipers at the local Napa parts store.
For me RCBS and Lyman are the easiest and most affordable components available.
The RCBS dies are the easiest for me to set up and use and dont need to be changed every session unless you change bullets.
I only reload for hunting and a sparing amount of target practice. Thank God I got all my load developing done before the shortage.
I cannot stress enough the importance of stocking up on all components when readily available to avoid the price gougers who are scourging our sport today.
For those of us that have arthritis rcbs makes a bench mounted priming tool so does a couple other manufacturers , I find the rcbs one works well for me and putting the primers in the tubes means your not touching them with your hands every time you go to seat one.
Thanks for the feedback! I haven't used any of the bench mounted tools but I am sure for the guys that have a couple miles on their joints that this might be a great option!
I am 50 and just getting into this. Sounds like what I need.
Damn & here we are crossing paths again on this wide world web of YT. Seems we have a lot of the same interest. Rock of the Marne my friend.
Thank you for making this video. It is a huge help in educating someone like myself who has never reloaded but I am thinking very seriously about it. Again, thank you.
Excellent Video! I am getting started in reloading and I knew at heart that a kit was the wrong way to go. ( i have bought kits in other hobbies and its always more costly in the end).
You are speaking as an experienced reloader. Kits are meant to get people started and they do. They will learn how they want to go as they go along. If you buy what you are describing it will cost much more. Kits are great. I was in the business for a couple decades.
I’m a beginner and I bought the Hornady LNL AP and haven’t looked back. However I also bought the book, The ABC’s of Reloading, so, yea. lol
I knew if I bought a single stage I’d of shortly wished I’d of bought a progressive. And it’s merely a matter of reading and taking your time and following instructions.
It also helps that there’s TH-cam. Just have to make sure of whom you’re listening to.
The reloading block what I did and got a few for free is I went to my local gun range and got one of them plastic trays that come with a new box of 9mm the plastic tray for 9mm fits 223/556 perfect
I bought an RCBS kit with the Rockchucker press and use nearly all the components every time I load.
I don’t use the powder measure except when loading stuff with ball powder.
Also, I usually don’t have to use the allen wrench set. 😁
No kit is a be all, end all, but I got mine for ~$263, free shipping. 😉
It's the Supreme Master kit. Over six hundo, currently, on Amazon.
I agree completely, but you got a GREAT Press, and the other items are quality parts. Even if today you were going to buy the Rebel press kit, which had been on sale for like $379, nothing in the kit "needs" to be replaced long term or there is likely some value there on the secondary market if you wanted to swap something out. At 600 its a completely different story if you didn't have your heart set on a rock chucker and a beam scale. Different strokes for different folks.
Buy the kit. Everything in the kit is useful and would cost less than buying individual components. Add more reloading manuals for reference.
Thank you for sharing this video nice job.. I work for a leading reloading supply store and 95 percent of kits we sell are always trying to be returned sorry to say we don’t accept returns on any reloading equipment we try to explain to our customers the fact that the kits are only for Beginners and not for Quality Ammunition it’s kits like this that are responsible for the 90 percent increase visits to the emergency rooms and 40 percent of deaths at gun ranges just make sure you have a responsible friend or relative to teach and show you the right and wrong way of doing things the internet is a bad resource you will never find 3 people that completely agree on anything Good luck
I am only reloading rifle cartridges for casual range time and hunting, not long range bench rest, so, I don't need speed or super ultra consistency in my reloading. My RCBS kit does fine. I suspect any kit would be fine. I find the hand primer tools, as you show, to be a bit fiddly to use, so I prime on the press. It takes a little longer, especially if I drop the primer, but it is sure. The beam balance that came in the kit works well. I don't need an electronic balance. I use the Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. It seems to be tall enough and heavy enough.
I started reloading with what is now called the Lee Classic Reloader. It will make shootable ammo all day long at the lowest possible cost. Add a case trimmer and you're done. The dipper gives reliable and surprisingly consistent loads. If you want to try different loads, get a beam balance to measure your powder and add a trickler.
If you are measuring each load, don't even mess with a beam or digital...get a powder dispenser...I have the Franklin arsenal powder dispenser and I love it.....tip...reload your brass in 50 or 100 round lots and keep those together from cradle to grave
my two cents for people getting into this as i too have upgraded nearly all of the reloading systems i initially started with. its almost like a right of passage as a reloader. if you are going to spend extra money on one item, spend up on a trimmer. i started with the RCBS hand trimmer, then went to the lyman trimmer with power adapter. i now have the henderson precision trimmer which performs the steps of trimming, chamfer, and debur all at once. similar system to the geruard system mentioned in this video. i also recommend to go straight to wet tumble. if you know people who have been reloading for years, ask them what they are using in their system currently and why; could save you alot of money on stuff that you would upgrade. all in all dont buy kits and do the research to get your kit set up right from the get go. this may not be the best approach for the price conscious but youll be a much happier reloader.
I started with a Lee Classic Turret Press kit, and eventually went to a MEC Marksman. I don't use anything that came with that Lee kit anymore, other than the press itself when I bulk load pistol calibers.
i stopped using the quick change die adapters and my consistency for shoulder bump and seating improved drastically.
I just started reloading earlier this year. I picked up the Frankford Arsenal case prep station that has 4 stations instead of 3 plus a trimmer. I then use the Lee threaded cutter and lock stud for trimming because the threaded cutter goes on one of the stations. Works pretty well so far.
Watch the trimmer. I can't get a square case neck from it. Even when "finishing" the case turned 90*. And I'm not talking small variances. I went to the WIlson hand trimmer to square / finish. But after averaging over 1 min to trim, chamfer, debur, I just dropped the coin on the Henderson precision trimmer.
I wish you luck with your FA, but if precision is of any concern, be sure to check how square that case neck ends up
I think you missed what I said. The actual trimmer is the Lee threaded cutter with lock stud, basically the same thing as the Lee hand trimmer except the cutter screws in just like the chamfer and debur tools. I am not using a FA trimmer.
One thing I recommend to anyone starting reloading is to have the book for the bullets that they are shooting. If you shoot Hornady bullets, get the Hornady book, if you shoot Speers, get the Speer book.
Awesome vid, thanks for the reality check. I'd way rather buy the right pieces now than buy them over again once I got enough experience to realize the difference.
I started with a kit and still use most of it. As with everything, tools required depend on the job at hand. Yes, once you get more into reloading you will end up buy other tools adding to your bag of tricks. Or as I did, start modifying the kit you bought.
Thinking of reloading? Here’s some tips and warnings from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is not a complete list, there's much to learn.
If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It can be fun or it can be tedious. These are your choices.
While powder weights and length are listed online for many powders GET THE BOOK AND READ IT. The details in the first few chapters are important.
If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. And if we include the time scavenging brass, sorting brass and searching for in stock materials, add many more hours. For a while it was look online an hour a week for MONTHS at a time to find primers.
Keep your supplies in original packaging. Keep your equipment and tools clean, properly lubricated and organized.
Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. It also counters inflation. While waiting for primers to be for sale in 2020/2021 I had 600 9mm and 200 380 cases ready to load.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them. Some people even wear disposable gloves because nitroglycerine can affect blood pressure and cause big problems. Safety data sheets are available from the manufacturer's website.
Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. And a solid bench is good for consistency. Don't even consider using a cheap table.
ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals.
There is a case length specification with minimum and maximum, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. SAAMI website has great pdf’s for this info. Some reloading books do not contain the minimum case length.
ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length.
Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass and nickel plated brass cases are reloadable.
There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping die you can break the decapping pin. DETAILS, the entire process is details.
There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that.
ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry.
Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round.
Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money)
NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured.
ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both.
Always inspect each piece at every step. For instance, just filled 50 cases with powder? Look in them to see they are filled the same. Just primed 50 cases, look at the bottoms, make sure they are all primed correctly, shiny side out, and slightly recessed.
Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Keep your resizing dies clean.
Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot sell your reloads. (just sayin') People will ask you to sell your reloads. And if there is an incident or accident, you will be responsible.
Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem. Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes.
Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefore crimp may vary. This crimp variation can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets.
A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out.
My Dillon Precision essentials kit came with calipers and a scale. Both seem accurate to me and the scale came with a calibration weight. I use my XL750 to load pistol calibers. For my bolt action guns, I would like to find a reasonable single stage press. While it's clearly slower than a progressive, I feel the smaller numbers of rifle caliber I shoot do not justify the expense of a different tool head and power measure for the 750.
When I started earlier this year, I wanted a Dillon, but none were available. I went with the Lyman Brass-Smith Ideal. $100. It's been good so far, and was able to do .338 Lapua, which some others were not. I almost bought something else but saw it mentioned in some comments that it wouldn't fit, and saved myself the disappointment. It's the caliber that drove me to even start loading. I'm glad I did, because of what he said about out-shooting factory ammo with the .308 & .30-06.
@@ShastaBean And now the Lyman Brass-smith Ideals are hard to find. So are the Forester CoAx presses these days. And primers and powders too.
Good video for us newbies. Glad I watched a ton of reloading videos so I knew what’s necessary and why not to buy those Hornsby kits
I am sure they are the right choice for some but they just aren't for me. I thought the bushings would work better than they do. I almost didn't by my CO-AX but I am so glad I did. So many struggle with poor tools thinking they are all the same.
I bought into it years ago to buy what you want first time and I have kinda hand picked what I want and then the small things I wasn’t sure I went cheap so I can upgrade with better knowledge as times goes on
I've become a huge fan of the Frankford Arsenal platinum precision scale it's a pretty good more budget option. I have the majority of everything you was showing and completely agree those kits sound good but they come with a bunch of stuff that really sucks and will have to be replaced or dont come with the stuff you need the most. Great video as always keepem coming brother!!!
I bought the RCBS kit 20+ years ago, before YT. With no experience to reload I had to use manuals and some advice from my local gun stores. I still use the Rock Chucker press to this day and I have added some expensive extras that have become necessary.
I got the Hornady kit and I agree the powder trickler sucks as it comes, too light, too short. I went to the dollar store and bought a shot glass and I flipped it over and glued it into the base of the trickler. Gives about 2" of height and plenty of weight.
I went the à la carte way of building a reloading bench, and I think I did ok. My only regret is not dropping some cash on an auto dispensing scale, but I am pretty happy with the scale and measuring kit that I did get. It’s just that measuring out charges takes by far the most amount of time per cartridge than any other step in my process right now.
All good information and the only thing I would add is for the case trimming. I had a Forester and it just sucked, between the pilots and the case length varying with the tightness of the case mounting ring keeping lengths within .008" was a waste of time. The Lee stuff is good but changes with the brand of case but IMHO the best solution is the Frankford Arsenal Power Case Trimmer. It's easy to trim 500 cases an hour, uses an electric drill you already have, takes less than 5 minutes to change from .223 to 30/06, holds lengths to within .002" and is affordable. Can't be beat and you always need a beam scale for checking your other scales, I've had to many electronic scales drift or outright fail.
Must agree with you. A case trimmer is essential. I when for a cheap and slower solution that what you have, but effective for me. I when for the Quick trim with die.
I too have come to the exact same conclusion about reloading kits. You seem to be the only TH-camr telling the truth about reloading tools in general, as the others just seem to be interested in convincing newbies to buy cheap junk reloading tools that are basically a waste of money. OK ok there are actually a few other TH-camrs that give good advise, yet over 90% are spewing ignorance and stupidity. Keep keeping it real!
One shot lube is great on my progressive press. makes it easier to feel any snags in other parts of the loading process. I still use everything that came with my lee loadmaster 9mm kit but it didn't have all that stuff. I did buy a lot of stuff later due to price then upgraded later.
I had done some reloading on my dads single stage press. I hated having to set the bullet seating die up because the lock ring slipped a little.
I got the lee 4 hole turret press kit, and it was amazing. I still had to buy a couple things, but having almost everything ready to go is nice. And you dont have to break the bank either.
I load hunting ammo mostly. Because 7mm rem mag went from 35$ a box to $80.
And i can load my own varmint rounds in 223. But id never reload fmj plinking ammo. Just a waste of primers and its cheaper to buy bulk 556.
I bought that Hornady LnL Classic kit and the bushings and shell holders aren't an issue since I don't load a bunch of different calibers. I still use the powder dispenser, but would like a better trickler and scale. I also use the Lee case length trimmers because they are easy and fast and since I'm not shooting competition, the slight increase in accuracy I might get by going to a different system just isn't worth it to me.
I tried a dry tumbler and they suck. I bought a sonic system and it's OK, but I really want a wet tumbler.
Honestly I like the lee kits. Not because they are top notch, but because they get you into relaoding for an affordable price. Nevertheless you are correct and I replace almost everything exept the press itself
You would be surprised how clean and polished one can get brass by using a Mason jar with hot, soapy water and a movie. Save that purchase for later and use the money on more important stuff. Digital scales are nice, but get a balance beam scale first. They always work. Thanks for the vid.
When I was ready to start reloading I contacted Brownells and said what caliber (9, 380 and 223, then 20 gau and 410), what precision (low),how many per year I would reload ( couple thou) if I wanted to go state of the art or just make ammo (just make it shoot) and my budget (keep it under a grand total for all items). Their recommendation, Lee press , powder measure, dies, length trimmer, Franklin digital scale and Lyman manual and and some small items. For shotshells, the MEC 600 jr press. I already owned a micrometer and a gauge block. They also told me that the powder companies have their own load data online or in free catalogs.
I am more than satisfied with the purchases and the assistance.
I have added a few small calibration weights because I don't reload near 50 grams of powder. So I use a 0.2 gram and a 1 gram. This gets me a check in the range of powder. I also added the lee ram swage, it cost a few, but it is so much nicer than reaming. I use the lee on the press priming tool.
One thing about the Lee press that I particularly like is that the handle can be adjusted for length and angle. Doing a resizing step, the long handle and full throw is great. Just seating bullets, you only need a little force and a short distance throw so move the handle up and in.
One thing I did to keep it cheap for the first few tousand rounds was hand wet cleaning my brass. I used an empty clean peanut butter jar, steel pins, hot water, laundry detergent and powdered citric acid. Shake for five minutes let sit for five minutes, repeat for an hour. After a year and a half of listening to it my wife bought me a frankford arsenal tumbler!
Great video, keep it on!
Although I am not new to reloading, I think many viewers would appreciate a mini-series on "practical" load development, in which I mean not OCD 0.1" benchrest fussing with million dollar tools; but the best effort-to-value precision for like sub-moa of half-moa loads for guys not/can't spend days at the range every week.
Keep it on!
You do make a good point. If I could only get money, I spent back on some of the things I have bought. Having said that a kit came with what I needed to start well over 30 years ago. I bought an RCBS kit which did the job. When I got to magnums, I got a press with a larger opening. I eventually got into a Dillon 550B. There have been many improvements in reloading equipment, and I still upgrade to this day. It's not all that bad to have a few back up tools laying around. It's not too bad to sell them either if the opportunity arises. Nice video.
I am really glad I came across this channel.
@1:41 Your data point regarding the cost of the Hornady bushings compared to the cost to operate the (superb) Forester Coax press is flawed... For single unit quantities the Forster cross bolt die lock rings are ALSO $6 each, the same price as the Hornady LnL bushings in single unit quantities... There is a $1 per unit advantage buying 12 of the Forster rings over the 10 pack of Hornady bushings when they are in stock.. which relative to the price of the different die sets is an inconsequential amount of money per 3-die set of up to $3 more per set, total, for the LnL vs CoAx. There are reasons to consider the Forster press over the Hornady, but they have similar costs related to their quick change die bushing system and this is really an unfair negative call-out of the Hornady system compared to the Forester.
Consider the value of the 500 bullets you get with the Hornady kit (around $200) which usually goes on sale this time of year and you are likely getting the entire kit for less than $140 before figuring out Uncle Sam's cut which is a better deal than even the cheap Lee Challenger kits. For example, Midsouth has the Hornady LnL kit WITH the free 1.2l sonic cleaner for $339 shipped free and it's eligible for the Lock N Load free bullet promo.
Great video. I started with the same reloading kit the hornady lock and load. Yhe only thing I still use from it is the press and deburring tool. And the presses biggest attraction is its biggest flaw. Notice when you are fully sizing brass those dies will move, no matter how much you tighten the bushing into the press.im upgrading to a rcbs summit press. After going through 2x franford arsenal Coakley presses, they are very similar to the foster coax. The biggest issue with the frankford is the screws that hold the shell holder in place: they are about 2mm deep into the cast block. So when I had a stuck brass (not enough lube) it bent the entire shell holder and ripped the screws out of the cast block. Great design otherwise. Also great video. 👍
I started off, mid 80's, reloading for my .44Mag. I was a firefighter, and would take my entire reloading kit to work, and load in between runs. I had a Lee handloader, and my whole kit fit in a shoebox.
Since then, I have had quite a bit of reloading equipment find me. I "inherited" a Hornady Projector, from a coworker, who passed away. Dedicated to .45 ACP. Another friend gave me a Hornady Pro-7, that was seized up, sitting in a damp cellar. Dedicated 9mm. By the way, Hornady doesn't advertise this, but their presses carry a lifetime warranty. I called Hornady, about missing parts for the old Pro-7. I told the lady what I needed, gave her my address, and when she didn't ask for my credit card, asked her if she wanted paid. She told me it was under warranty. I told her, I'd just fished this out of a cellar, and wasn't the original owner. Didn't matter. So, I have to give Hornady an "Attaboy!".
I resurrected a few other presses from the cellar. My friend told me to do what i wanted with his old stuff. I sold the RCBS Green machine on eBay, along with a tempermental Lee 1000, and made enough to buy a new Hornady LNL (.40, .38/.357,). I checked in with my friend and offered to split the money, but he declined.
I ran across a new RCBS Jr. at a yard sale, for $5.00. It was missing a handle, that I happened to have an old steering rod, with the same threading. I use it as a sizing press. It's mounted upside down. It's easier to drop a cast bullet into the die, and push it through, dropping into a bucket under the press, than it is to place a bullet on the ram, and push it up through the die.
A pair of Lyman turret presses for rifle cartridges, along with a pair of Lyman 55 powder measures ( $5.00 ea. at a flea market).
I have a few more, in various stages of decline, including a Multiplex single stage, from the 50's.
So, it doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg to get started. You just never know what press is waiting for you to walk by, and take it home.
Spend your money on a solid electronic powder dispenser and a good trimming system at first. That will save you the most time and headaches. Multiple station press like a Redding T7 or Lyman 8 will also be a big time saver and will always be useful. Everything else can be done very economically.
Beginners don't need an electronic powder dispenser.
@@POOKIE5592 Beginners will enjoy the process a lot more with those things and will likely get them anyways. Nothing is worse than case prep or charging cases with a thrower and trickler. I learned on a loaner set of gear which was as basic as it got and those are the two things I invested in when I bought my own setup.
@@MrMalicious5 I would agree if it was necessary to trickle every cartridge.
@UC9y2pAnOE7U2wZ6n8Sw3tew Unless you spend $700-800, most electronic powder dispensers have a 0.1gr tolerance. You can get that throwing charges with a spherical powder. I wasn't trying to be argumentative, but an EPD is probably cost-prohibitive for a lot of beginners.
I find myself never using my fancy Hornady progressive press. I just chill and relax with my old Lee turret head. At one time, I only thought it would be cool to quickly crank out hundreds of rounds at a time.
iam sticking with a Lee hand loader for now I may grab a Lee RGB set at some point but the lee loader coupled with the Hornady G2 electronic scales works well was doing .243 now iam loading .30-06 its good fun and the results have been surprisingly good with .243 still to try the Loads ive done for my .30-06 gotta get to the range .
Thanks for all the useful information on starting to reload.
I wish I seen this a few years ago, I went all out and bought progressive and everything you can imagine, easily over 4 grand, i probably use a handful of things. Don’t even use the powder dispenser, waste of money, bought the automatic dispenser. If I played it smart I wouldn’t have spent so much money.
Thank you for this great information. Appreciate the work you put into this. Merry Christmas 2023
Thank you. Merry Christmas.
My god I'm so overwhelmed lol.... I just started shooting last year and I shoot ALOT.... For the past 3 months I've been collecting all of my own spent 9mm Luger and 223/556 brass with the thought in the back of my head being that one day I'll be happy I took the time to actually contain and store the brass for reloading because it seems like a really fun and interesting idea.... Any time that I've ever spoke with someone in person about reloading they almost ALWAYS make it sound like it's such an easy process and would kind of poke fun at me "friendly albeit" for my worry of how complicated it seems so I've kind of had this fairytale picture show in my head that once it's time to start reloading and that I'm ready to spend the money to do so that it's going to be a magically easy process and I wont have to worry about making sure I get this all right the first time.... Well, as of today I want to be serious and make some purchases towards reloading.... So, litteraly 1hr into researching what's best to get and what all I'll need to do and learn litteraly just gave me the biggest reality check slap to the face and scared me right off my purchasing "high horse" if you will.... Now I've mentally stepped back to a point that's now even further past my initial worry and concerns. There's so many damn tools and presses and this and that and one of these and one of those you must have kind of scenarios I'm faced with and all of that seems to be backed with a wealth of conflicting information when it comes on a review or "what's best for me" basis..... Super overwhelmed and now wondering if I'll even take the plunge anymore into this hobby.... I know that's like the worst possible attitude to have but the last thing I want to do is do what the guy says in the beginning of the video and buy a set that I'll quickly regret and it seems the only way to counter that situation is with lots and lots more moniez lol....
I always tell anyone who is just starting out reloading to buy a couple of reloading manuals first. Make sure one of them is the Lyman reloading manual. The Lyman manual is the beginers best friend with really well written instructions and good illistrations.
If you can it is a good idea to start reloading with someone who has done it for awhile. They can show you the steps it takes and explain why they are using which ever tools they are using. They may even have some outgrown tools they would be willing to sell. I have found a few bargains on reloading tools at estate auctions and even flea markets. (Always buy anything electronic new if you can't test it.)
Looking at the calibers you mentioned...If your going to be loading in quantity get a press that is progressive. I chose the Dillon RL-550 B because it is progressive but can also be used as a single stage press.
From my experience, brand loyalty is not a good idea: every manufacturer have tools with good and bad designs. If you read the product reviews before buying new tools you will naturally diversify your brands. The only brand that consistently gets bad reviews is Forster (their tools do not appear to be at the same level of their famous press).
My reloading bench looks like a fruit salad: red (Hornady/Lee), orange (Lyman), green (Redding/RCBS) and blue (Dillon/Frankford Arsenal).
I think you’re right on there, I have stuff from many different manufacturers on my bench. I would give that exact same piece of advice.
Have been doing this since 1973 My first was a 'Tong tool' it loaded my 38 spl ammo good enough at the time. Next was my RCBS kit. Rock chucker. I still use it all the time. I have spent thousands maybe on stuff I never needed or was junk. Want to prime cases? for me a hand primer is the best. I have several. if the chuck is universal? so much the better. Back then there were no real carbide dies and the set came with a pad to roll cases on. Now? they have sprays that work great. The scale.... I still user it. in fact it is the only thing I use. On that... the powder measure..... it is great... I also have an old Redding one. One is for pistol and the other for rifle. both are 'micrometer' would have nothing else. Trimming. Have wasted most on that. they tend to trim uneven. But? The Lee zip trim is like $20 and the most accurate trimmer I have ever used. and yes... I have bought the electric ones that look like they belong in a machine shop. You can add stuff like factory crimp dies and "M' dies for cast slugs but do it a little at a time.
I personally liked my kit it was enough to get me started, I think people get stuck on brands to much on my reloading bench I have lee,rcbs,hornady, lol but I do recommend people to get more than 1 case holder, and spares I often needed one and it stopped me from shooting all because a tiny part
I don't remember if I bought a kit or not. I do know that I preferred Redding over RCBS, so that's the press, scale, powder measure that I have. I do wish I had a Forster co-ax press, not needing so many shell holders is very nice. I need something for hand priming and case trimming.
I started with the hornady kit as well. The scale is terribly inconsistent and was replaced after my first reloading session. I have Lyman reamers and chamfers.
Great video, thanks! Just starting back to reloading and this was very useful.
When you're starting out reloading, you don't need t spend a small fortune with all the latest " gadgets" as most
won't have a clue what to do !!
I purchased an RCBS kit in 1982, did it have everything I use today " No ", but for many years it made great ammo
and still does today, I still shoot BR and I have shot long-range, not world-class but a hell of a lot of fun.
If you have and shoot a $5k rifle, with a $3k scope you maybe need a Mark 7 press, AMP annealer, and all the latest
gadgets like a Giraud trimmer just to name a few !!
If I had to buy every tool I have now, at that time, I would be another Joe Schmo wishing for ammo to hit the shelves again. The starter kit allowed me to load for the first 2 years. Economical tools were used until I could save up for the proper tools I wanted. It also allowed me to stock up on Primers, Bullets, and Powders (which is a true blessing right now). I would have never been able to buy a Giraud Trimmer, Co-Ax Press, Bench Source Annealer, Lyman Wet Tumbler, RCBS bench primer seater, Auto Trickler V3, 120i scale, several tinitride bushings, Forster competition Seater die, Redding S-Type Sizing die, Mighty Armory decanting die, the many other tools I now have, 10k+ bullets, 10k+ primers, 30lbs+ of powder all at once. That's totally unrealistic for me and the many individuals that don't have that kind of bread. I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker kit, 1 pound of H4350, 200 Federal Large Rifle Primers, 142gr Accubond LR (200 count), Frankford Media Shaker Tumbler thing, Lyman hand trimming tools with "Power Adapters", and basic RCBS dies. I was fortunate enough to sell my old starter kit to a buddy a year ago-along with Primers, Bullets, and powder when none were available. We all can't start with the best reloading tools, custom rifles, Nightforce/Leopold/Kahles/Schmidt & Bender/ or other high end scopes, high dollar rests/bipods, and other accessories. The never ending battle of Reloading Equipment VS More Firearms is a harsh reality a lot of us struggle with.
I have worked at musical instrument factory. Annealing brass is achieved at 1100 degrees , this temperature will make brass soft. Stress relief of brass is achieved at 450 degrees. Stress reliefing processes take one hour, this will take the hardness out of the brass, but it will not soften brass.
Sometimes you can find good deals on old made in the USA Ohaus/rcbs scales that are waaaaaaaaaay better than the current crop of beam scales. I use check weights to zero the scale to my charge. I have a chargemaster lite, I like it for load development, it's faster than you think, but it's slower than you think lol
I started out with an old lee reloading kit. it came in a small box, a little bit larger than a deck of cards. you had to have a small hammer. the rest was there, if you had powder scoops. I hated it so I got an rcbs press, then a scale and a vibratory cleaner..... I guess I went at it the old fashioned way. starts with less and get more. by now I have a pick up truck load of stuff. case trimmers and tricklers.... I ddont use most of it, but I have it.
Vibratory tumblers are great..... but you need to add Flitz it em cause the media just stops working in short time. Tumble for 6 hours and they are still dirty. Add a little flitz before hand? like new brass.... seriously new looking in a few short hours. Dillon case lube is where it is at. pie pan with say 20 cases.. spritz a little and then shake em around. I keep a rag on my lap to wipe off the lube as soon as I size the case. it does wipe clean easily.
I.agree on lee products bought my pro 1000 in 89
I think lee dies the best but that's my preference
I use the lee scoops and pro powder measures
The scoops are accurate
We calibrate ordinance scales where I work
Excellent video to get the beginner off and running. Not to debate but I started with an RCBS "kit" and.......like you say, I use very little of it today, lol. But I still use the heck out the press. Probably time to upgrade, lol.
I bought the classic kit on sale and love it. Not sure I would of bought it if it wasn’t on sale and if it didn’t include 500 free bullets. I was disappointed in the fact the stand for the powder dispenser wasn’t included nor a caliper. Other then that very happy with the kit.
Boy I wish I had seen his first! All true and thanks!
Thanks for the video, now I know what I need next. I agree with what you say.
Glad it was helpful!
I bought the LEE PRECISION Anniversary Challenger Kit about 7 years ago. It had everything I needed except for the dies, primers, and powder. I did not need to trim my brass as I was only reloading 38 special, 357 mag, and 45ACP. This kit was the best option, IMO. I would do it again. Don't under estimate the kit from Lee. I just started reloading 223, so I have purchased a Franklin Arsenal Platinum Series Rotary Tumbler 7L, and their Platinum Series Case Trim and Prep Center, and a set of Lee Ultimate die set for .223. Lee may not be the top end of reloading, but they sure make a damn good product for anyone wanting to get into reloading on a budget. I do believe that some of their dies have made some world class loads, if you look it up. NO, I do not work for LEE, I just know what my experience is with their product.
Also started and kept working with Lee progressive press. Works fine. I loaded so far 9mm, .38Sp and .45ACP on the Lee but I us a 6 die Turret press by RCBS on more peculiar calibers. For the case cleaning, I manufactured my own tumbler based on the Franklin Arsenal concept.
Me, too!
I so wish I could get into reloading. Looks so cool and always have wanted to do. Hopefully one day I can afford to get a starter kit. Great video
I picked up a used Lee Loadmaster that included three turrets for $250...
Just buy what you can afford when you can afford it. Eventually, you’ll have everything you need.
If you afford factory ammo, you can afford to reload.
Kits are fine for getting started. I loaded my first 20,000 rounds of 45 when I was young and poor with a whole lot less than what came in that kit and I spent a lot more than what that kit cost to get started.
I got my first RCBS reloading press and part's I need at Walmart 4 years ago and got Federal fusion bonded soft point in 308 and 243 for me and my kids we are big 30 caliber family so I don't got to get a hole lot more money in it so far.
Oh... I have a lot of manuals. you would be surprised at how much they vary in load data... The online versions I go to a lot. I did get a Lee press and manual deal LOL.... like $25 for both and I use the press for light work like.... a fourth station.... factory crimp... that sort of thing. Nothing heavy. The old RCBS is 50 years old and going strong.
I’d add a bullet puller. It will pay for itself pretty quickly the first time you make a mistake with a batch. And a good one from Hornady or Frankfort only runs 16 or 17 bucks.
As someone who reloaded thousands of shotgun shells in the 70's, 80's and 90's and did reload some rifle stuff too but not that much when I thought about reloading again lately and could find no where to get the primers my reloaders sit packed away.
With the trickler just fill the bottom with heavy small nuts & bolts and ducktape the bottom. Problem solved.
With the powder funnel go to the dollar store and buy smaller $1 funnels , cut a small part of the drain part off and insert into the mouth of the Hornady funnel and crazy glue it in. Now the funnel will fit nicely on 223 necks.
I would like to say if you are a hunter and not in competition shooting and you reload for three calibers and 300 rounds a year or there about this Hornady kit will be 90% of what you need. If you are a reloader and reload on this scale I would highly recommend lee there is nothing wrong with lee dies.