Welcome back! I missed your videos! This video is spot on! I’ve been reloading for 50 years and past 10 years as I’m now 69 years old I finally figured out exactly what you’re talking about. Now I’ve got quarter minute groups with a six GT out of a havoc hit by Seekins!
extremely good advice, especially the part about seeing the target bullseye in the crosshairs. I had to get away from 9x because the crosshairs were covering the 1" dot at 100yds. It wasn't until I got to 14x that I could still see the outer edges of the 1" dot once the crosshairs were centered. Fine crosshairs is a must. I shoot mostly a custom Swedish M96 mauser in 6.5x55 and consistently achieve .5 to .75 MOA at 100yds. The rifle is 112 years old I might add.
Happy to see a new video! I have to agree with all your points, especially dry fire. A few months back I downloaded and printed the FREE dry fire targets from MDT and started practicing down a hallway in my house. My groups have shrunk to where I always hoped they would be, and my confidence has increased as well. Looking forward to more great content, as always!
One big factor that affects groups is the inconsistent resting of the fore end of the rifle on a rest. In some rifles the groups will open up a lot if your rest the fore end. I usually try to rest the area below the chamber just in front of the magazine and try to do this consistently.
njm....absolutely. 5 shot groups are a waste of time, powder, bullets, case life, money !!! I use to shoot 3 shot groups, but have cut that back to 2 shots. See my comment above.
He's back! Now don't be a stranger, ya hear? Gotta say, over a year into reloading, and I cant tell ya how much your catalogue of videos has helped me. Saved me a ton of frustration by si.ply following your thought process through things. Thank you for that
@@wildcat_reloading yeah, and it's a shame. I get it, it's cyclical. People fall into it and get bored, especially during perceived ammo "shortages". It just bums me out, because I've fallen in love with it. There's hours of content out there to find and learn, sure. Just feels more like walking empty halls than learning in real time from peers. A very minor gripe, to be sure.
I use a small plumb bob attached to a string with a screw at the end. punch the screw thru the target stand cardboard, align your target to the string. when you aim, align the scope's vertical reticle to the plumb target.Bonus tip, When you adjust your elevation on your scope to extreme up and down on the target, you can make out if the scope reticle alignment to the rifle bore is vertical.
Good points all around. With your aim point comment I buy rolls of white paper and I draw downward pointing chevrons using a square edge and a thick permanent marker. This makes for a very fine aim point and a natural fit for most reticles. Also unless you always shoot from a front rest rear bag combo you may want to do your shooting closer to how the rifle will be used the majority of the time. We shoot off bipod the majority of the time so we shoot our groups and do our development off bipod. If you don't want to do it prone but still get a similar effect off the bench you can clamp a board to the bench that allows you to load the bipod while shooting from a bench. Great stuff thanks for sharing.
1:35 I shoot a Savage Mk II in 22LR. I was having trouble mounting the scope onto the rifle due to the design of the mounting grooves being too short and not going to the back end of the reciever. I purchased a cantilever tip off 1" mount for the scope. I also purchased a screw in bubble level that goes with the mount. Using the level, my groups shrank 20%!
Life has been a little crazy and I have been trying to work on some big projects that I have literally put 100s of hours on. I am hoping that they are worth the time. Staying locked in on a single video has been a struggle, but some crazy videos are coming.
Sound advice, thank-you. I used to shoot centrefire out to 1000 yards but circumstances have me currently shooting air up to 100 yards. All good but using a level is a top tip.
Ocular focus is also very important, I noticed that I could feel my eye change focus between looking at the target and looking at the reticle if I released the shot as this happened my group size increased. I solved this by adjusting the parallax so that the target image was sharp and then whilst maintaining focus on the target adjust the ocular focus until the reticle was also pin sharp.
Disassemble, clean, and check all female threads, then reassemble. I had a rifle where the provided mount screws were about 1 thread too long for the blind holes so the scope rail seemed tight and the torque was right but that rail had some wiggle in it.
ive seen lead sleds cause all kinds of accuracy problems. if you're shooting for groups wouldn't say it necessary to keep your gun level, but more important to make sure its in the same position every time you shoot. consistency is what the goal is with the level is maybe what you are trying. pertaining to shooting groups for load development, anyway.
I was shooting Sat and doing pretty well hitting most 3” centers at 500m. I noticed my level was off but when I adjusted, things got worse, lol. So back to basics and need to reset the dials. My rest wasn’t good horizontally bouncing about 3”, but I can sort that.
Have enough scope power to show your shakes, and flinches, he's correct on having a point to aim at let the group be couple inches away. only concentrate on the point keep it clean, then use a dot to check for aimpoint later...Great Vid 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Blows my mind how guys spend thousands on a rig, and shoot at a target made with a sharpie and a greasy pizza box. Using a target that orients the crosshair the same every time is a huge proponent to smaller groups.(supporting the level theory). Good tips.
Levels are great, but you can get consistency without one. Draw some parallel horizontal and vertical lines on your target background and you can easily reference your scope to those. Shooting at bullet hole with offset sights is good as well. or you can nest the target dot in the crosshairs tangents.
Have you done a video testing minimum brass handling? I just started to size washed brass that has been neck brushed with wax, then do a big big chamfer, wash again, brush each neck with thick brushed nylon brush just to even out all of the dirt still around, then proceed to prime, charge and seat. I have gotten very good accuracy with that brass from my AR. My 10 shot groups are 0.7 to 1.2moa so far and 5 shot groups around 0.6 moa, which is crazy. I think the big chamfer helps and the evened out carbon in the neck. I get around 15fps MV SD also, and this is an average of over 10 different shooting occasions. I learned this from snipershide and had to try. I wash with fairy dish soap and the only thing I am worried about is sizing wax sticking to neck, leading to inconsistencies in MV but so far I have had no problem but just started this. Bryan the witchdoctor also tested just brushing with nylon at some point, but I think the brush thickness also matters, some brushed are made of very thin nylon and some thicker.
Thank you for that sled comment!!! As a rangemaster, I've seen too many wasted days of folk trusting they're holding the rifle the same as that sled... Simply not, not ever. Bore sight at 100yds & and it's an easy day after, if you have half a clue. A hack for that level issue when shooting a known range with stable backers/targets... Use the 1'or2' level you've got on top of your toolbox. Yup, that one your dad gave you. Simply take it in your range bag and bring it with you when you hang/paint a fresh target. Draw a line (i keep a sharpie in the range bag to mark holes on paper instead of covering them with stickers) that is level directly on the target, say two inches above your aim point (so it's not lost bhind the reticle or cross hairs) and you can now manage the level situation through the optic, in real time. 😮 If you're blessed enough to still have your Dad around, don't forget to send the guy a picture of the wonderful results and thank him for the level!
Buy a Tikka T3x a Burris Fullfield ll 4.5-14x42mm 1 inch tube, lock tight your scope rings and enjoy the half inch or less groups at 100 yards with factory ammo.Go out 200 yards and still have half inch groups. People cry about the stock, say it feels cheap, but nobody is crying about the slide bolt or trigger and those are what matters to me.
He talked about it in his last video. I think he is a bit burned out. My guess is getting a hard time from people who supported him on patreon that didn't get consistent videos. Many don't appreciate the amount of effort that goes into making a video and it's hard to deliver. Unfortunately, even though many are thankful for your work, the few that complain stick out to a creator and scream the loudest in your head. Plus youtube consistently hates the content and no one wants to put 100 hours into a video for no one to see. If / when he posts again, I will smile and be grateful. JRB will always be my favorite channel.
On a side note, I have the material for about 15 videos already fired. 6 more videos recorded that need edited and at least ideas for 50 more I want to work on. I am not gone or retired.
I’m curious to know what your over all steps are. Do you start with trying to find the grouping? Do you start with powder charge? Trying to find ES before looking for groups? What are your over all steps?
Get a high quality PCP air rifle. Maybe an FX or Daystate. The equipment is expensive but shooting thousands of rounds is very inexpensive. You can do a lot of practicing at home from different shooting positions. This made a huge difference for me and helped me practice trigger control, breathing and timing when not shooting from a bench.
often shooters use a led sled for testing ammo at 100 yds. These same people then attempt 1000 yard shots but Never use the lead sled ??? I would guess they feel the lead sled helps them be consistent between different types of ammo, and they might be correct ?? In my experience the lead sled doesn’t do well for heavy recoiling rifles but is perhaps good for light recoiling units ??
Kudos for including dry-firing. There should not be one single round fired through any new rig without a lot of it. For me, it helps to get my trigger break timed best I can when dealing with mirage. Everything else is a breeze compared to that.
Nice channel. Love guns but i've avoided gun channels kinda for a long time bc of cringe creators, SHILLS, people with bad info or simply ppl with hard to listen to voices. You're none of those, that's awesome!!!
Sometimes, because of fit issues, torquing scope base fasteners is not enough. A better approach is to bed the base to the action. Another tip is to either lap rings, or use the Burris rings that have self aligning inserts, so that your scope will not be damaged by uneven ring contact, that can also stress the action in a way that is undesirable for best accuracy. The final tip is that no one should assume that factory, or any bolt it together and shoot it setup will be as accurate as it would be with a proper, stress free bedding job.
Be careful when using loctite. Use less torque than you would without using it. You will take the head off the screw if you use the factory torque specs and loctite
Being aware of the effects of parallax issues is nearly as helpful as parallax adjustment knobs. Being aware of the edge shadow in your scope picture will make your non-adjustable scope a more concise scope.
Great advice and presentation 😊 More often than not.. the average person purchases a package set-up and heads to the range with a box of ammo! Then the trouble begins.. Don't get me wrong.. I've done it.. I've learned not to nowadays 😊 If you purchase a package firearm or a used firearm.. that already has a scope mounted on it.. you owe it to yourself to take it home.. disassemble it.. clean it.. and put it back together! Then you'll know that the screws are tight and the scope is leveled! Then .. pick up five ( at minimum ) different brands of factory ammo.. then head to the range. Sight in your firearm with the least expensive box.. at 25 yards.. you should be 1 and a half inches low at that distance! Move to 100 yards and fire a three shot group with each box of ammo.. if you don't like.. or should I say the rifle doesn't like those.. buy a few more different brands of factory ammo 😊 That being said.. with the way things are today.. most firearms are more accurate than the shooter.. and you'll find a decent load within those five boxes.. maybe two or three 😊 Shoot straight and God bless ❤
@@JohnLee-jk5ew it's due to most rifle scopes sitting an inch and a half above the center of the bore. The center of the scope and the center of the bore are the starting point! If you're high or even dead on at 25.. you'll be really high and possibly over the target at 100 due to the rise of the bullet during its path down range. Hopefully that makes sense :)
Tap your scope base lightly with a mallet while torquing the screws to settle the screws. Tap the scope base forward lightly to simulate the rifle recoil rearward under the scope base and re-torque. (Do not tap so hard with your mallet that you shear your scope base screws.) Use a pin punch that has a tip much smaller than the ring cap screw slots to lightly tap the ring screws downward then re-torque the cap screws. You can use thread locking compound on the screws if you like but if you use thread locking compound without settling the base and screws you may be just locking the screw threads in on the scope base and rings have have not settled yet. The base, rings, and screw will settle a bit with recoil if you do not settle them in first with a mallet then you must wonder if the bases and rings not settled despite the screws being held firmly by thread locking compound.
Dry fire is no fun. It's not immediately gratifying. I doesn't pump up my adrenaline. It's not manly. Dry fire is critical to consistent training, so I add 10 minutes of dry trigger work before EVERY rifle and pistol sessionon the range... even though I have my own home range. It's that important
Long Range for Beginners - 5 Easy Mistakes to Avoid! - th-cam.com/video/6mFvTBD1QCw/w-d-xo.html
Welcome back! I missed your videos! This video is spot on! I’ve been reloading for 50 years and past 10 years as I’m now 69 years old I finally figured out exactly what you’re talking about. Now I’ve got quarter minute groups with a six GT out of a havoc hit by Seekins!
extremely good advice, especially the part about seeing the target bullseye in the crosshairs. I had to get away from 9x because the crosshairs were covering the 1" dot at 100yds. It wasn't until I got to 14x that I could still see the outer edges of the 1" dot once the crosshairs were centered. Fine crosshairs is a must. I shoot mostly a custom Swedish M96 mauser in 6.5x55 and consistently achieve .5 to .75 MOA at 100yds. The rifle is 112 years old I might add.
Happy to see a new video! I have to agree with all your points, especially dry fire. A few months back I downloaded and printed the FREE dry fire targets from MDT and started practicing down a hallway in my house. My groups have shrunk to where I always hoped they would be, and my confidence has increased as well. Looking forward to more great content, as always!
One big factor that affects groups is the inconsistent resting of the fore end of the rifle on a rest. In some rifles the groups will open up a lot if your rest the fore end. I usually try to rest the area below the chamber just in front of the magazine and try to do this consistently.
The only group that matters for hunter, is the cold barrel shot
njm....absolutely. 5 shot groups are a waste of time, powder, bullets, case life, money !!! I use to shoot 3 shot groups, but have cut that back to 2 shots. See my comment above.
A lot of people do not understand that or how to test let alone zero the rifle for a cold bore shot.
Yes, the one shot group is the best group in regards to hunting.
Superb video, welcome back!!
I'm glad to see you again . I hope all is well with you
Good to see ya back,always good advice.
Great video!! So glad to see you back!!
He's back! Now don't be a stranger, ya hear? Gotta say, over a year into reloading, and I cant tell ya how much your catalogue of videos has helped me. Saved me a ton of frustration by si.ply following your thought process through things. Thank you for that
A lot of reloading channels have gone quiet
@@wildcat_reloading yeah, and it's a shame. I get it, it's cyclical. People fall into it and get bored, especially during perceived ammo "shortages". It just bums me out, because I've fallen in love with it. There's hours of content out there to find and learn, sure. Just feels more like walking empty halls than learning in real time from peers. A very minor gripe, to be sure.
@@CrashRacknShoot I miss Johnny's reloading bench
@@wildcat_reloading absolutely
Best reloading content on the web.@@wildcat_reloading
First time viewer and hit the subscribe button. You packed a lot into a short amount of time and it was all rock solid advice.
Good to see you... well most of you. Great info as always.
I use a small plumb bob attached to a string with a screw at the end. punch the screw thru the target stand cardboard, align your target to the string. when you aim, align the scope's vertical reticle to the plumb target.Bonus tip, When you adjust your elevation on your scope to extreme up and down on the target, you can make out if the scope reticle alignment to the rifle bore is vertical.
Good points all around.
With your aim point comment I buy rolls of white paper and I draw downward pointing chevrons using a square edge and a thick permanent marker. This makes for a very fine aim point and a natural fit for most reticles.
Also unless you always shoot from a front rest rear bag combo you may want to do your shooting closer to how the rifle will be used the majority of the time. We shoot off bipod the majority of the time so we shoot our groups and do our development off bipod. If you don't want to do it prone but still get a similar effect off the bench you can clamp a board to the bench that allows you to load the bipod while shooting from a bench.
Great stuff thanks for sharing.
1:35 I shoot a Savage Mk II in 22LR. I was having trouble mounting the scope onto the rifle due to the design of the mounting grooves being too short and not going to the back end of the reciever. I purchased a cantilever tip off 1" mount for the scope. I also purchased a screw in bubble level that goes with the mount. Using the level, my groups shrank 20%!
Glad to see you back!
Hey man. How's life? Thanks for sharing a little bit of yours with us.
Yes...thank you
Life has been a little crazy and I have been trying to work on some big projects that I have literally put 100s of hours on. I am hoping that they are worth the time. Staying locked in on a single video has been a struggle, but some crazy videos are coming.
@@BoltActionReloading Cool brother. Just glad you are still on this side of the earth. Can't wait to see what you have coming down the pipe.
Sound advice, thank-you.
I used to shoot centrefire out to 1000 yards but circumstances have me currently shooting air up to 100 yards. All good but using a level is a top tip.
Verry good tips, big THX !
Top tips... spot on.
Ocular focus is also very important, I noticed that I could feel my eye change focus between looking at the target and looking at the reticle if I released the shot as this happened my group size increased. I solved this by adjusting the parallax so that the target image was sharp and then whilst maintaining focus on the target adjust the ocular focus until the reticle was also pin sharp.
Disassemble, clean, and check all female threads, then reassemble. I had a rifle where the provided mount screws were about 1 thread too long for the blind holes so the scope rail seemed tight and the torque was right but that rail had some wiggle in it.
ive seen lead sleds cause all kinds of accuracy problems.
if you're shooting for groups wouldn't say it necessary to keep your gun level, but more important to make sure its in the same position every time you shoot. consistency is what the goal is with the level is maybe what you are trying. pertaining to shooting groups for load development, anyway.
I was shooting Sat and doing pretty well hitting most 3” centers at 500m. I noticed my level was off but when I adjusted, things got worse, lol. So back to basics and need to reset the dials. My rest wasn’t good horizontally bouncing about 3”, but I can sort that.
Good information don’t be a stranger love your videos
Have enough scope power to show your shakes, and flinches, he's correct on having a point to aim at let the group be couple inches away. only concentrate on the point keep it clean, then use a dot to check for aimpoint later...Great Vid 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Blows my mind how guys spend thousands on a rig, and shoot at a target made with a sharpie and a greasy pizza box. Using a target that orients the crosshair the same every time is a huge proponent to smaller groups.(supporting the level theory). Good tips.
✌🏻@BoltActionReloading good video.. glad to see some new footage and topics. Keep em rolling buddy! 😎🙏🏻God Bless!
Levels are great, but you can get consistency without one. Draw some parallel horizontal and vertical lines on your target background and you can easily reference your scope to those. Shooting at bullet hole with offset sights is good as well. or you can nest the target dot in the crosshairs tangents.
Thanks for some very useful info.
Great info, Sir 😎
Thanks!
Does using a bipod vs a front rest make any difference?
Yes …Sandbag is a lot more solid and steady
No mention of sling 'studs'. Hate those things when sand-bagging. Would it destroy profit margins to incorporate flush mount slings?
For bench rest i remove the sling studs.
Very nice video and very good info
Have you done a video testing minimum brass handling? I just started to size washed brass that has been neck brushed with wax, then do a big big chamfer, wash again, brush each neck with thick brushed nylon brush just to even out all of the dirt still around, then proceed to prime, charge and seat. I have gotten very good accuracy with that brass from my AR.
My 10 shot groups are 0.7 to 1.2moa so far and 5 shot groups around 0.6 moa, which is crazy.
I think the big chamfer helps and the evened out carbon in the neck. I get around 15fps MV SD also, and this is an average of over 10 different shooting occasions. I learned this from snipershide and had to try. I wash with fairy dish soap and the only thing I am worried about is sizing wax sticking to neck, leading to inconsistencies in MV but so far I have had no problem but just started this. Bryan the witchdoctor also tested just brushing with nylon at some point, but I think the brush thickness also matters, some brushed are made of very thin nylon and some thicker.
Thank you for that sled comment!!!
As a rangemaster, I've seen too many wasted days of folk trusting they're holding the rifle the same as that sled...
Simply not, not ever.
Bore sight at 100yds & and it's an easy day after, if you have half a clue.
A hack for that level issue when shooting a known range with stable backers/targets... Use the 1'or2' level you've got on top of your toolbox. Yup, that one your dad gave you. Simply take it in your range bag and bring it with you when you hang/paint a fresh target. Draw a line (i keep a sharpie in the range bag to mark holes on paper instead of covering them with stickers) that is level directly on the target, say two inches above your aim point (so it's not lost bhind the reticle or cross hairs) and you can now manage the level situation through the optic, in real time.
😮
If you're blessed enough to still have your Dad around, don't forget to send the guy a picture of the wonderful results and thank him for the level!
Excellent. Many thanks.
Buy a Tikka T3x a Burris Fullfield ll 4.5-14x42mm 1 inch tube, lock tight your scope rings and enjoy the half inch or less groups at 100 yards with factory ammo.Go out 200 yards and still have half inch groups.
People cry about the stock, say it feels cheap, but nobody is crying about the slide bolt or trigger and those are what matters to me.
Help us B.A.R., you're our only hope. JRB left a big hole in the reloading community.
Is JRB OK or he just stopped uploading to his channel?
He talked about it in his last video. I think he is a bit burned out. My guess is getting a hard time from people who supported him on patreon that didn't get consistent videos. Many don't appreciate the amount of effort that goes into making a video and it's hard to deliver. Unfortunately, even though many are thankful for your work, the few that complain stick out to a creator and scream the loudest in your head. Plus youtube consistently hates the content and no one wants to put 100 hours into a video for no one to see. If / when he posts again, I will smile and be grateful. JRB will always be my favorite channel.
On a side note, I have the material for about 15 videos already fired. 6 more videos recorded that need edited and at least ideas for 50 more I want to work on. I am not gone or retired.
@@BoltActionReloading well said!
I’m curious to know what your over all steps are.
Do you start with trying to find the grouping?
Do you start with powder charge?
Trying to find ES before looking for groups?
What are your over all steps?
Find the best group, with 2g less of max powder capacity
Get a high quality PCP air rifle. Maybe an FX or Daystate. The equipment is expensive but shooting thousands of rounds is very inexpensive. You can do a lot of practicing at home from different shooting positions. This made a huge difference for me and helped me practice trigger control, breathing and timing when not shooting from a bench.
Confused I am getting a shiny ring near the bottom of my case when fl size can you tell me why?
I'm curious to know if you have data that shows using a level improved one's shooting skill.
often shooters use a led sled for testing ammo at 100 yds. These same people then attempt 1000 yard shots but Never use the lead sled ??? I would guess they feel the lead sled helps them be consistent between different types of ammo, and they might be correct ?? In my experience the lead sled doesn’t do well for heavy recoiling rifles but is perhaps good for light recoiling units ??
Kudos for including dry-firing. There should not be one single round fired through any new rig without a lot of it. For me, it helps to get my trigger break timed best I can when dealing with mirage. Everything else is a breeze compared to that.
Agreed 👍🏻
Hey 👋👋👋
Nice channel. Love guns but i've avoided gun channels kinda for a long time bc of cringe creators, SHILLS, people with bad info or simply ppl with hard to listen to voices. You're none of those, that's awesome!!!
Sometimes, because of fit issues, torquing scope base fasteners is not enough. A better approach is to bed the base to the action. Another tip is to either lap rings, or use the Burris rings that have self aligning inserts, so that your scope will not be damaged by uneven ring contact, that can also stress the action in a way that is undesirable for best accuracy. The final tip is that no one should assume that factory, or any bolt it together and shoot it setup will be as accurate as it would be with a proper, stress free bedding job.
Be careful when using loctite. Use less torque than you would without using it. You will take the head off the screw if you use the factory torque specs and loctite
I guess it would help if I had parallax adjustment...
Being aware of the effects of parallax issues is nearly as helpful as parallax adjustment knobs. Being aware of the edge shadow in your scope picture will make your non-adjustable scope a more concise scope.
malenkosti,ki predstavljajo resnico😉
Great advice and presentation 😊
More often than not.. the average person purchases a package set-up and heads to the range with a box of ammo!
Then the trouble begins..
Don't get me wrong.. I've done it.. I've learned not to nowadays 😊
If you purchase a package firearm or a used firearm.. that already has a scope mounted on it.. you owe it to yourself to take it home.. disassemble it.. clean it.. and put it back together!
Then you'll know that the screws are tight and the scope is leveled!
Then .. pick up five ( at minimum ) different brands of factory ammo.. then head to the range. Sight in your firearm with the least expensive box.. at 25 yards.. you should be 1 and a half inches low at that distance!
Move to 100 yards and fire a three shot group with each box of ammo.. if you don't like.. or should I say the rifle doesn't like those.. buy a few more different brands of factory ammo 😊
That being said.. with the way things are today.. most firearms are more accurate than the shooter.. and you'll find a decent load within those five boxes.. maybe two or three 😊
Shoot straight and God bless ❤
Why be 1.5 inches low at 25yards? Thanks
@@JohnLee-jk5ew it's due to most rifle scopes sitting an inch and a half above the center of the bore.
The center of the scope and the center of the bore are the starting point!
If you're high or even dead on at 25.. you'll be really high and possibly over the target at 100 due to the rise of the bullet during its path down range.
Hopefully that makes sense :)
@@JohnLee-jk5ewbullet still coming up to zero point...
Tap your scope base lightly with a mallet while torquing the screws to settle the screws. Tap the scope base forward lightly to simulate the rifle recoil rearward under the scope base and re-torque. (Do not tap so hard with your mallet that you shear your scope base screws.) Use a pin punch that has a tip much smaller than the ring cap screw slots to lightly tap the ring screws downward then re-torque the cap screws. You can use thread locking compound on the screws if you like but if you use thread locking compound without settling the base and screws you may be just locking the screw threads in on the scope base and rings have have not settled yet. The base, rings, and screw will settle a bit with recoil if you do not settle them in first with a mallet then you must wonder if the bases and rings not settled despite the screws being held firmly by thread locking compound.
Dry fire is no fun. It's not immediately gratifying. I doesn't pump up my adrenaline. It's not manly.
Dry fire is critical to consistent training, so I add 10 minutes of dry trigger work before EVERY rifle and pistol sessionon the range... even though I have my own home range. It's that important
I can appreciate this but my marksmanship - standing and on one knee is a much bigger concern for my family.
👍👍
You sound like hoby wedler the blind fella from tik tok
Please, do not try to confuse me with common sense. My mind just doesn't work that way.
Tip 1: move closer
Just say no to clickbait arrows.
If they're not level you can't get a clue
Thank You!
👍👍