JOIN OUR EXCLUSIVE PROJECT SUPPORT GROUP With WEEKLY GROUP CALLS For Coaching On Farm Equipment Repair, Welding & Metal Fabrication! Its An Affordable, And Easy Skill-Building Program With Only A 1 Month Minimum! Learn About The Program Here: th-cam.com/video/LbxxZ4l9LnU/w-d-xo.html Join The Project Support Group Here: www.patreon.com/OWFA/membership
I’ve seen videos quoting the “rule of 9” for a 4-cyl, 4-stroke engine - when valve 8 is fully open, adjust 1, when 7 is fully open, adjust 2, and so on.
I hold the pushrod down as I rotate to make sure it's all the way down. If your marks are off the pushrod won't be all the way. Never trust timing marks especially on a motor with a harmonic balancer
The technically correct way to do it is to set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open, and the exhaust valve when the intake valve just starts to close. The lifter is on the base circle of the cam which is EXACTLY where you want to set the clearance. Only a hack would set it your way. As always do it like the manufacturer recommends if you don't know any better. If you did it your way on a MACk with a "Jake" brake you would be in for rude awakening.
@@bagpuss121 I really like to use the manufactures recommend way but if you turn the engine over by hand and watch the valves as described you will good results. What you are trying to achieve is getting the cam lobe on the base circle or rounded bottom. I do it with a push button starter button when in a hurry. Taking the plugs out can make hand turning easier. No need to have tdc, just watch the valves and you'll be right on the money.
@@mikegoodman447that’s all I’ve ever done, just get the valve fully closed and have the rocker on the furthest away from the tip of the lobe and it’s never been a problem 🤷♂️
@@Thedar561 I have seen valves adjusted all sorts of ways. Until I started working on race engines where a few thousandths might ruin your your day. Making sure it's on the base circle , in other words opposite of the cam lobe is the absolute way to get the correct clearance. One way I could never master was adjusting them while it was running. I have seen it done and I rechecked them and they were pretty darn close to specs, but the guy was a master at engines, especially old engines.
I just did my old 3-cyl kubota and oddly 2 of them were out of spec loose (.33 mm instead of .2) but the other four were tight! How could four of them have no clearance after 42 years and 1500 hours? I don’t get it, but I backed them off until all 6 were .2 mm. I turned the crank through multiple full strokes to make sure none of them exceeded.2 at any point.
great video i have 2 quick questions, 1. if just doing a head gaskit an you put every bolt an part back where it was before, do the push rods need to be checked 2. where do you get the information for the clerance is it the same or a general thing?
You will need to check/adjust valves after replacing the head gasket, even if you didnt change anything. Lash specs are engine specific, you will need to look up the make/model, and sometimes the serial number of your engine to get the valve lash spec. A lot of the time its printed on the valve cover.
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS: KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench: amzn.to/35fchvN OTC Slide-Hammer Kit: amzn.to/3p7mq4Q Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last: amzn.to/2VsxTgH SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price: amzn.to/2VegmbE Regular Safety Glasses that I Use: amzn.to/2ATXtEf Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
I just overhaul the generator but it is having oil pressure issue. The oil is not reaching the filter and I have changed many oil pump still couldn't find the issue please I need help on how the oil will be reaching
Any NEWBIE, anyone NOT qualified as a a Mechanic: DO NOT. FOLLOW THIS ADViCE!! Set each piston to TDC, like he did for No 1; then adjust. It may take 20 mins longer, but you will NOT rRUIN your engine. The method shown has MANY pitfalls, varying from manufacturer to engine design to year model. Only a Specialist, like him, should EVER do it this way. A poor resource for YT consumers, sorry.
I did this method on a 8 yo motorcycle that I overhauled and changed everything inside, it had the tiking sound no matter what when adjusting valves at TDC and according to manual. I'm guessing the valve seats were worn out, and it lowered the tiking sound to almost none when doing it this way.
Yes, the 'ticking sound' can be made to disappear by simply adjusting the valve lash to below specification , compensating for uneven wear of the cam lobe. Whether your valve seats are worn or not, the valve will be quieter with tighter valve lash (gap). Problem is: If you set it just a small amount too tight, you can ruin the cam, ruin the valve , ruin the follower and ruin the seat....but I'm sure you knew that already, and did it anyway, right? While the ticking is annoying, it is less harmful to the engine than a valve that is set too tight. Ever notice how YT is full of 'specialists' that know better than than the manufacturer who designed & built the engine? Hey, its your engine, you adjust it any way you please.@@GDurango11
@@almostbutnotentirelyunreas166 hey thanks for the awesome feedback hehe! I completely get you, the thing is it's a 180.000 km bike that I had babied like nothing else. At the 150.000 mark this dude that I was recommended, adjusted the valves and the tiking sound began, then I started this journey of fixing my own engine, downloading the full manual, buying the wrenches and sockets and all that stuff, I changed everything inside the engine leaving alone the gearbox. I bought new timing chain, tensioner, camshaft, piston, rings, valves, springs, everything and I adjusted the valves to the manual recommendations, the sound was still there and was driving me nuts. I came to realization that it must be the valve seats worn out like hell, because when I took out the old valves, the exhaust one was 150% worn out... and once I adjusted the valves using this overlapping method, the motorcycle got quieter... so I don't know... If anything, the spare parts are not that expensive hehe. And also after adjusting the valves to this method the motorcycle feels faster. Perhaps the manual setting for the valves is more suitable for a new bike, and the cylinder head is way too expensive just for the seats.
Sounds like you won the lottery on this engine! (BTW, a m-bike engine is hardly 'commercial' or diesel, so the risk is even higher, with tighter tolerances). For most other YT patrons, the story will end differently: Tight valve clearances (i.e super quiet) lead to burnt valves and/or worn followers and/or piston vs valve head contact ('dropped valve, usually at high rpm, catastrophic engine damage .But since it worked for you: The exception proves the rule. Luck counts!@@GDurango11
JOIN OUR EXCLUSIVE PROJECT SUPPORT GROUP With WEEKLY GROUP CALLS For Coaching On Farm Equipment Repair, Welding & Metal Fabrication! Its An Affordable, And Easy Skill-Building Program With Only A 1 Month Minimum!
Learn About The Program Here: th-cam.com/video/LbxxZ4l9LnU/w-d-xo.html
Join The Project Support Group Here: www.patreon.com/OWFA/membership
I’ve seen videos quoting the “rule of 9” for a 4-cyl, 4-stroke engine - when valve 8 is fully open, adjust 1, when 7 is fully open, adjust 2, and so on.
Best explanation I’ve heard
I'm amazed someone is working on a zetor errr, bobcat tractor that I can comprehend. Good stuff.
I hold the pushrod down as I rotate to make sure it's all the way down. If your marks are off the pushrod won't be all the way. Never trust timing marks especially on a motor with a harmonic balancer
Thank u, educative video
This is the method recommended by manufacturers because it's a time saving method.
Excellent demonstation!
It's best to final adjust when engine is hot.
The technically correct way to do it is to set the intake valve when the exhaust valve just starts to open, and the exhaust valve when the intake valve just starts to close. The lifter is on the base circle of the cam which is EXACTLY where you want to set the clearance. Only a hack would set it your way. As always do it like the manufacturer recommends if you don't know any better. If you did it your way on a MACk with a "Jake" brake you would be in for rude awakening.
You Set The Piston To TDC Then Adjust Them ?
@@bagpuss121 I really like to use the manufactures recommend way but if you turn the engine over by hand and watch the valves as described you will good results. What you are trying to achieve is getting the cam lobe on the base circle or rounded bottom. I do it with a push button starter button when in a hurry. Taking the plugs out can make hand turning easier. No need to have tdc, just watch the valves and you'll be right on the money.
@@mikegoodman447that’s all I’ve ever done, just get the valve fully closed and have the rocker on the furthest away from the tip of the lobe and it’s never been a problem 🤷♂️
@@Thedar561 I have seen valves adjusted all sorts of ways. Until I started working on race engines where a few thousandths might ruin your your day. Making sure it's on the base circle , in other words opposite of the cam lobe is the absolute way to get the correct clearance. One way I could never master was adjusting them while it was running. I have seen it done and I rechecked them and they were pretty darn close to specs, but the guy was a master at engines, especially old engines.
Thanks for the video
Awsome!!
GREAT !
I just did my old 3-cyl kubota and oddly 2 of them were out of spec loose (.33 mm instead of .2) but the other four were tight! How could four of them have no clearance after 42 years and 1500 hours? I don’t get it, but I backed them off until all 6 were .2 mm. I turned the crank through multiple full strokes to make sure none of them exceeded.2 at any point.
Thank you
Is it ok to set tappet loose after a fresh engine rebuild? the idea is to let valve seat to adjust properly cause they were built new too.
thank you, i realy enjoy the way you explain this
Hello is the same method for a c3.3b cat engine?
Does the intake and exhaust valves carry the same clearance?
Thought the exhaust valves carries a larger clearance than the intake.
Have You Got To Re Torque The Cylinder Head Bolts/Nuts On That Engine After Its Been Run ?
Why not just roll the engine over in firing order and adjust ?
Oi so you answered question its about time and the number of times having to roll engine over .
Can you do them by firing order ?
So when you set cylinder 1do we need to turn the engine set 3
Nice one
So the correct measurement is 0.25m on the filigage?
Please I thought that the inlet and outlet valve are meant to bear different adjustment
How to adjust cylinder number three on diesel engine four cylinders
Thank your ferend
great video i have 2 quick questions,
1. if just doing a head gaskit an you put every bolt an part back where it was before, do the push rods need to be checked
2. where do you get the information for the clerance is it the same or a general thing?
You will need to check/adjust valves after replacing the head gasket, even if you didnt change anything. Lash specs are engine specific, you will need to look up the make/model, and sometimes the serial number of your engine to get the valve lash spec. A lot of the time its printed on the valve cover.
How to adjust cunsume diseil
Great video,very informative! How much torque did you apply to the head bolts? We have been recommended 20kgm
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true
SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS:
KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench:
amzn.to/35fchvN
OTC Slide-Hammer Kit:
amzn.to/3p7mq4Q
Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last:
amzn.to/2VsxTgH
SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price:
amzn.to/2VegmbE
Regular Safety Glasses that I Use:
amzn.to/2ATXtEf
Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
I just overhaul the generator but it is having oil pressure issue.
The oil is not reaching the filter and I have changed many oil pump still couldn't find the issue please I need help on how the oil will be reaching
Dude is that guy recording chucky 2009 does he have a welding channel??? I watched him a lot wassup cuz!!!
zetor :D i m from czechoslovakia
German torque ist the best
Good content. 👍
OK merci beaucoup
Does not include Paccar mx13!
They are in recall for weak crank for bolts there is teams going around to do the fix
Crank rod bolts I mean
Any NEWBIE, anyone NOT qualified as a a Mechanic: DO NOT. FOLLOW THIS ADViCE!!
Set each piston to TDC, like he did for No 1; then adjust. It may take 20 mins longer, but you will NOT rRUIN your engine.
The method shown has MANY pitfalls, varying from manufacturer to engine design to year model.
Only a Specialist, like him, should EVER do it this way. A poor resource for YT consumers, sorry.
I did this method on a 8 yo motorcycle that I overhauled and changed everything inside, it had the tiking sound no matter what when adjusting valves at TDC and according to manual. I'm guessing the valve seats were worn out, and it lowered the tiking sound to almost none when doing it this way.
Yes, the 'ticking sound' can be made to disappear by simply adjusting the valve lash to below specification , compensating for uneven wear of the cam lobe. Whether your valve seats are worn or not, the valve will be quieter with tighter valve lash (gap). Problem is: If you set it just a small amount too tight, you can ruin the cam, ruin the valve , ruin the follower and ruin the seat....but I'm sure you knew that already, and did it anyway, right? While the ticking is annoying, it is less harmful to the engine than a valve that is set too tight. Ever notice how YT is full of 'specialists' that know better than than the manufacturer who designed & built the engine? Hey, its your engine, you adjust it any way you please.@@GDurango11
@@almostbutnotentirelyunreas166 hey thanks for the awesome feedback hehe! I completely get you, the thing is it's a 180.000 km bike that I had babied like nothing else. At the 150.000 mark this dude that I was recommended, adjusted the valves and the tiking sound began, then I started this journey of fixing my own engine, downloading the full manual, buying the wrenches and sockets and all that stuff, I changed everything inside the engine leaving alone the gearbox. I bought new timing chain, tensioner, camshaft, piston, rings, valves, springs, everything and I adjusted the valves to the manual recommendations, the sound was still there and was driving me nuts. I came to realization that it must be the valve seats worn out like hell, because when I took out the old valves, the exhaust one was 150% worn out... and once I adjusted the valves using this overlapping method, the motorcycle got quieter... so I don't know... If anything, the spare parts are not that expensive hehe. And also after adjusting the valves to this method the motorcycle feels faster. Perhaps the manual setting for the valves is more suitable for a new bike, and the cylinder head is way too expensive just for the seats.
Sounds like you won the lottery on this engine! (BTW, a m-bike engine is hardly 'commercial' or diesel, so the risk is even higher, with tighter tolerances). For most other YT patrons, the story will end differently: Tight valve clearances (i.e super quiet) lead to burnt valves and/or worn followers and/or piston vs valve head contact ('dropped valve, usually at high rpm, catastrophic engine damage .But since it worked for you: The exception proves the rule. Luck counts!@@GDurango11
That's not applicable in new overhaul engine
🙏🥰
I need to become an engineer and I need your help
በአማርኛ ተርጉም
Who adjusts hydraulic valves cold?
So when you set cylinder 1do we need to turn the engine set 3