So when you clutch forward, put it in gear does it just smoothly engage or does it slam into gear? That's what you want to go into gear smoothly at lowest Rpm without engine boging down. Without it slamming into gear when clutch forward...
So are we saying the Tachometers on the dashboards are off? We shouldn't trust this? We should get an external tach? --This might be my problem, my engine is bogging down and stalling here and there; and just by the sounds of the motor I have been saying it's idle is too low, but the dash tach says it's to spec.
I always use an external. Some dash ones are not accurate. There is a 3 position switch on timing. Of them for 4,6,8 cylinders. Some times switch can be off from hitting waves. Idle should never fluctuate. Once set that should be your minimum. Just borrow one from someone. You only need it once. Unless you do something like change mixture or timeing. Your gauge might be fine but what if it's off 100rpm...
Very awesome feedback and very informative video. You have done a great job replying and helping others with this issue. Let me tell you; it’s very scary when your boat is dying on you and your drifting in a marina and about to hit something, so my boat is staying in the slip until I can figure this out. You have listed quite a few things to check and how to fix the issue; so I’m very hopeful we can get this fixed. God Bless you for taking the time to put all this together and help others
@@brandonunger1689 Thank you for the comment. We other over think things. Its usually actually something real simply. I would replace cap and rotor. Then wires and plugs. Its a marine environment. You you shop around you can get a cap and rotor for less than $20 I think its off shore marine. Back in the old days we used to do a tune up every year on our car right.
When I'm at open throttle, and then bring it down to idle, the motor runs rough then shuts off. Would this be a solution to that problem? I saw a video on the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), but I think that is for fuel-injected motors. Thanks for posting this video!
I have had that happen when it is hot it would die at idle. Turned out to be rotor button. I think it was a $5 part. I had replaced carb, coil, cap, ignition module. Turned out to be a $5 rotor cap. It would run WOT but at idle it would die. But it woun't lay down until it was hot had to go at least 20 miles then it won't idle. IACs are on fuel injected engines.
Picked up a new to me 1985' mercruiser 190, could I do this adjustment off a set of earmuffs, getting it dialed in at the house? Once warm, on earmuffs, it was idling at ~500rpm at the tac. all out stalls out at idle within the first 15-20min.
Needs to be warm with choke and fast idle off. Spec is 650 RPM in gear. Thats clutch forward but not giving it any throttle. So with most the idle in neutral will be around 700-750 then when you put it in gear it will drop to around 650. 500 is to low. biggest issue will be not enough oil pressure. Need to use an external gauge. most dash tacks are not accurate... Yes to muffs
So I have the same engine and was running fine for a few weeks but just recently it idles rough like it’s on the verge of dying and sometimes dies. What would have caused it to come out of tune like that?
Make sure its not bad gas or water. First thing I would be thinking is electrical if its at idle. Mainly cap and rotor. Then plugs. All those things wear out.
@@marshall8898 whats 2011? IS it fuel injected? IS the rough idle at start up or after it warms up? corroded cap and rotor causeing miss will sooth out when you increase RPM.
@@outdoorswithcam 2011 Mercruiser 3.0TKS Runs good but once its warm it idles rough and almost wants to die , It just started doing that this week wasn't doing that before. Engine is shaking like idling to low in Neutral
To the coil. You should have a "pigtail" to plug into. My old boat you just clipped on to the coil but newer boats those connections are sealed and you will have a wire to hook up to.
Any time you adjust idle you need to adjust cable. If cable is not adjusted right and you go from full throdle to neutral it will have a high idle. Tight cable can keep it from returning to base idle. Idle screw won't even touch.
How do I adjust my idle on 7.4 mpi. I idle at 900. When shifting into gear I hear gear clunk. Is that normal or should it be quite. When shifting into gear and out. I assume my idle should be lower than 900?
It should idle in gear at 750 RPM. Red line starts at 4400. AT 7500 the engine would blow up. The only way that would happen is in neutral. The prop is the limiting factor because if you use a stock prop 4800 is about as fast as it would go. If you changed the prop you could blew it it.
Can I hook my new tach to the pigtail? I can’t get a reading on my new tach from the gray wire or even wrapping a new wire around a spark plug wire.
Sure you can
Good video
I used my timing light, which has a built-in tachometer.
Thanks.
Im running 970 in neutral and out of the water with earmuffs on... Im pretty close i think, when i drop it in the water. Your thoughts.
So when you clutch forward, put it in gear does it just smoothly engage or does it slam into gear? That's what you want to go into gear smoothly at lowest Rpm without engine boging down. Without it slamming into gear when clutch forward...
When I put my into gear it will hit high rpm and they will go into gear hard I need help fixing this @outdoorswithcam
The rotor button is under the cap. It used to be like $6. You should replace evey couple years.
So are we saying the Tachometers on the dashboards are off? We shouldn't trust this? We should get an external tach? --This might be my problem, my engine is bogging down and stalling here and there; and just by the sounds of the motor I have been saying it's idle is too low, but the dash tach says it's to spec.
I always use an external. Some dash ones are not accurate. There is a 3 position switch on timing. Of them for 4,6,8 cylinders. Some times switch can be off from hitting waves. Idle should never fluctuate. Once set that should be your minimum. Just borrow one from someone. You only need it once. Unless you do something like change mixture or timeing. Your gauge might be fine but what if it's off 100rpm...
Very awesome feedback and very informative video. You have done a great job replying and helping others with this issue. Let me tell you; it’s very scary when your boat is dying on you and your drifting in a marina and about to hit something, so my boat is staying in the slip until I can figure this out. You have listed quite a few things to check and how to fix the issue; so I’m very hopeful we can get this fixed. God Bless you for taking the time to put all this together and help others
@@brandonunger1689 Thank you for the comment. We other over think things. Its usually actually something real simply. I would replace cap and rotor. Then wires and plugs. Its a marine environment. You you shop around you can get a cap and rotor for less than $20 I think its off shore marine. Back in the old days we used to do a tune up every year on our car right.
When I'm at open throttle, and then bring it down to idle, the motor runs rough then shuts off. Would this be a solution to that problem? I saw a video on the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), but I think that is for fuel-injected motors. Thanks for posting this video!
I have had that happen when it is hot it would die at idle. Turned out to be rotor button. I think it was a $5 part. I had replaced carb, coil, cap, ignition module. Turned out to be a $5 rotor cap. It would run WOT but at idle it would die. But it woun't lay down until it was hot had to go at least 20 miles then it won't idle. IACs are on fuel injected engines.
Did you ever fix this problem? Mine is doing the same. Thanks
@@marshall8898mine was doing this when I had a bad fuel pump. check for fuel in the sight tube, if there's fuel there you need a new fuel pump
Picked up a new to me 1985' mercruiser 190, could I do this adjustment off a set of earmuffs, getting it dialed in at the house? Once warm, on earmuffs, it was idling at ~500rpm at the tac. all out stalls out at idle within the first 15-20min.
Needs to be warm with choke and fast idle off. Spec is 650 RPM in gear. Thats clutch forward but not giving it any throttle. So with most the idle in neutral will be around 700-750 then when you put it in gear it will drop to around 650. 500 is to low. biggest issue will be not enough oil pressure. Need to use an external gauge. most dash tacks are not accurate... Yes to muffs
Where can I get that tachometer reader
That one came from Sears at the mall which of course is no longer. I have several that are even older. I am sure someone makes them just don't know...
So I have the same engine and was running fine for a few weeks but just recently it idles rough like it’s on the verge of dying and sometimes dies. What would have caused it to come out of tune like that?
Make sure its not bad gas or water. First thing I would be thinking is electrical if its at idle. Mainly cap and rotor. Then plugs. All those things wear out.
@@outdoorswithcam really? its 2011, i havent tried adjustment screw yet
@@marshall8898 whats 2011? IS it fuel injected? IS the rough idle at start up or after it warms up? corroded cap and rotor causeing miss will sooth out when you increase RPM.
@@outdoorswithcam 2011 Mercruiser 3.0TKS Runs good but once its warm it idles rough and almost wants to die , It just started doing that this week wasn't doing that before. Engine is shaking like idling to low in Neutral
@@marshall8898 that is exactly what mine was doing. I spent tons on parts. Turns out it was a $5 rotor button. I have a video on it.
Hey when I put my boat in gear it will hit high rpm’s and then slam into gear need help please .
Engine is mercruiser 3.0 alpha one 1997
Same here. You ever figure it out?
I have a 4.3 mercruiser. Where do you plug in the external gauge?
To the coil. You should have a "pigtail" to plug into. My old boat you just clipped on to the coil but newer boats those connections are sealed and you will have a wire to hook up to.
Great tips. Did you you remove the throttle cable BEFORE adjusting the idle speed, then reattach? Or was yours attached the whole video? Thanks. 🇨🇦
Any time you adjust idle you need to adjust cable. If cable is not adjusted right and you go from full throdle to neutral it will have a high idle. Tight cable can keep it from returning to base idle. Idle screw won't even touch.
What kind of tacometer?
That one came from Sears. I got it to set the Dwell on points in boats and old cars.
Thanks for the video. Would you please attach the picture which screw you adjust the idle? thanks.
I found the idle screw. Thanks.
How do I adjust my idle on 7.4 mpi. I idle at 900. When shifting into gear I hear gear clunk. Is that normal or should it be quite. When shifting into gear and out. I assume my idle should be lower than 900?
That is really HARD on the dogs to slam them into gear like that. Yes your idle is to high. You need to lower your idle 250 RPM.
@@outdoorswithcam how do I lower my rpm? I don't have an adjustment screw since this since is fuel injection
Wonderful Video! Would awsome if you could show us tuning from scratch!
I'll make one this summer
When you say 750, you mean 7500? Right?
It should idle in gear at 750 RPM. Red line starts at 4400. AT 7500 the engine would blow up. The only way that would happen is in neutral. The prop is the limiting factor because if you use a stock prop 4800 is about as fast as it would go. If you changed the prop you could blew it it.