This was exactly what I needed to see! Great explanations and demonstrations. I am a teacher and you do a wonderful job explaining and showing your reasoning
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
Very well executed and explained how- to! I'm a carpenter by trade, but you articulate it easier the i could ever explain it to someone. Cheers 🍻 looking forward to more content on the channel
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
If you think this is the correct way to put up cedar shingle siding, I would suggest you stick to carpentry. There is so much incorrect information in this video. I don’t know where to start.
Great video, very well explained , i' ve noticed you put the shingles really tight together . Some say you should keep at least 1/8 between shingles in case they swell with high humidity
In my experience shingles always shrink after installation. They rarely come perfectly dry, and the sun shrinks them and creates gaps, so purposely leaving gaps is unnecessary.
Thank you!!!! I have to do this myself, and now I am encouraged and knowledgeable! Amazing video, thank you VERY much for the careful and complete examples. Too many people assume prior knowledge. This video was incredibly helpful! 5 stars!
It is true, cedar shingle siding lasts 70+ years. My house has a double course, meaning it has an underlayment and overlayment. Repair is easy. It smells good after a rain. We love it. I must say, your corners are… interesting. Never seen that type done before because it tends to leak. The traditional corner is woven and it never leaks. But you have an underlayment that resists water intrusion so maybe that will work. Still, thank you for the video, it was very educational.
Such a great video. I've done plenty of cedar finishes for houses before and appreciate how you broke stuff done. Instant subscribed and shared with some buds.
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
I learned a few things from your video thank you I do it with a jig so if my shed is 6 ft wide I get a 6-foot wide jig I cut out some of the edge on both sides so that it fits on the exterior planks but it it's flush with the cedar shingles then I do the level and then I can do a whole row of shingles.
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
Thank you for the great video! I only thought it was a little weird that the shake lines don’t align with the shakes on the other wall. Also, I just watched another video of a guy saying that the gap for expansion is needed, so I’m a little confused now if it actually is.
@@fracasso1546 Sometimes you have to make compromises on the alignment from one wall to the next when you have multiple windows and doors at different heights to shingle around. As for gaps, this absolutely isn’t necessary, unless your shingles are old and bone dry. All new cut cedar shingles come with plenty of moisture still in them. If you install them tight together, they’ll shrink as they dry out and automatically create gaps plenty large enough for the tiny amount of expansion that might happen later. If you purposely add gaps, this shrinkage will make them even bigger, giving your wall an unprofessional gap-toothed look.
I use an old table to work off first of all. It never fails to go to the job site either and I have two by fours that fasten to the table and I use it and my miter saw on every job anyways. Also I bought an electric stapler just for the ease of use and sometimes there is no hydro. I also use an Olfa knife so I always have a sharp tip for the cross cuts. I have red cedar shakes, and I wish you showed how to do over the window to shed the water. I will figure it out as windows can be quite different I just wondered how others do it.
Good thinking. 👍 I usually do the same, but with an old sheet of plywood on sawhorses. Didn’t do that in this video because all my sawhorses were occupied. I will do another video on how to shed water over a window but here’s the short version. Get some custom made aluminum flashing bent around 120 degree angle, 3” wide on one side of the bend, 6” on the other. Cut it a foot longer than your window is wide. Install it over your window, tight against top of brick mould, over top of building wrap and drainage layer. 3” side sticking out, 6” side going up the wall. Then cedar shingle right over it, butting against the protruding 3” side.
@@cabininthewoods517 Cool, I got a bit of a conundrum with my shingle job. It has a skirt like a lot of older homes and it's in and out and up and down. Also I haven't decided if i will put a border up against the brick wall or shingle up to it.
Good question. Normally the answer is yes, but in this case lining up the rows from one wall to the next would have meant a serious misalignment with the bottom and top of the window, and by extension the door in the front. To me this was worse visually than a misalignment from one wall to the other, especially with the visual separation of the corner boards.
@@cabininthewoods517 Good Grief. Mismatched corner courses is the sign of a rookie installer. Proper use of a Story Pole corrects this problem. Marone!
@@cabininthewoods517 OK. Just so I understand this: the “bowed” part of the shingle(the vertical center line) should be touching the wall, while the outside edges are slightly curled away from the wall. Am I correct?
I saw in another video you’re supposed to leave a little space in between the shingles for water to drain and it allows them to be able to dry out. Do you not find that to be true?
In my experience it’s not necessary. Cedar shingles always come with some residual moisture in them. After installation they gradually dry and shrink, creating gaps automatically. If you leave gaps during installation, you’ll end up with way too big gaps in a few months.
Just use off cuts to create the same thickness as what the shingle course adjacent to the window or door will be. A double course might happen to be the right thickness.
Good question. It’s not necessary. Most shingle bundles arrive somewhat moist. After installation, they’ll dry and shrink naturally, creating slight gaps. Even during wet times of year, they’ll never swell back to the size they were when they were first milled. That’s why if you leave gaps, you’ll end up with even bigger gaps that look bad.
Impressive video, but I admittedly have to take everything with a grain of salt since you don't even have your crocs in work mode at 20:00... I'm just kidding, very useful.
From doing repairs to people's houses that have cedar shake and board and batten, I have found that construction adhesive cannot hold onto cedar over time. It's not the construction adhesive that fails, it's the cedar. As it expands and contracts with weather cycles, the construction adhesive resists, and the cedar will eventually just shed the paper thin layer of cedar that is attached to the adhesive. There is really nothing you can do to make the construction adhesive "better," it is doing it's job and holding the wood, but the wood is too soft to hold onto itself.
@@peterhoughton1731Not necessary. Bundles arrive somewhat moist. After installation, they’ll dry and shrink naturally, creating slight gaps. Even during wet times of year, they’ll never swell back to the size they were when they were first milled. That’s why if you leave gaps, you’ll end up with even bigger gaps that look bad and could exposure nails/staples.
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
@@dilcho5480 Your average thin cut, knotty western red cedar shingles, sure. But thick, knot-free eastern white with a drainage layer behind? Way more than 25. I have personally seen a handful of buildings with 70+ year old cedar shingle siding, still going strong.
@@peterhoughton1731 Yes, these factors definitely affect lifespan. In ideal conditions, high quality, well-installed shingles can last 70 years or more.
Our cottage on Cape Cod, very humid and exposed to serious weather, has eastern cedar shakes, was built in 1940. The shakes started rotting about ten years ago and needed replacing.
This was exactly what I needed to see! Great explanations and demonstrations. I am a teacher and you do a wonderful job explaining and showing your reasoning
Glad it helped!
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
@@richardmckrell4899 Why don't you do a video instead of criticizing others?
@@kryptik0 Criticizing others is how I help. You're welcome.
@@richardmckrell4899 there is always more than one way to do things.
Wonderful explanation for installing the cedar shingles. Thank you.
Glad it helped 🙂
Very well executed and explained how- to! I'm a carpenter by trade, but you articulate it easier the i could ever explain it to someone. Cheers 🍻 looking forward to more content on the channel
Thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed it, means a lot coming from a pro 🙂
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
If you think this is the correct way to put up cedar shingle siding, I would suggest you stick to carpentry. There is so much incorrect information in this video. I don’t know where to start.
Great explanation! Enjoyed the video
Great video, very well explained , i' ve noticed you put the shingles really tight together . Some say you should keep at least 1/8 between shingles in case they swell with high humidity
In my experience shingles always shrink after installation. They rarely come perfectly dry, and the sun shrinks them and creates gaps, so purposely leaving gaps is unnecessary.
Thank you!!!! I have to do this myself, and now I am encouraged and knowledgeable! Amazing video, thank you VERY much for the careful and complete examples. Too many people assume prior knowledge. This video was incredibly helpful! 5 stars!
So glad to hear you found the video helpful!
Great guide with high quality video shooting. Thanks for making this.
Glad you found it helpful!
It is true, cedar shingle siding lasts 70+ years. My house has a double course, meaning it has an underlayment and overlayment. Repair is easy. It smells good after a rain. We love it. I must say, your corners are… interesting. Never seen that type done before because it tends to leak. The traditional corner is woven and it never leaks. But you have an underlayment that resists water intrusion so maybe that will work. Still, thank you for the video, it was very educational.
Thanks for this video. Very clearly explained, about to side a backyard studio/workshop, so this was helpful!
Such a great video. I've done plenty of cedar finishes for houses before and appreciate how you broke stuff done. Instant subscribed and shared with some buds.
Thanks, really appreciate it!
A real masterclass. Congrats.
Thank you 🙏
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
Nice work. Personally I rather use nails over staples. I"ve had to do repair or remolding work and I find it easier to remove the nails if necessary.
Great explanation on this, thank you so much
Glad you found it helpful!
I learned a few things from your video thank you I do it with a jig so if my shed is 6 ft wide I get a 6-foot wide jig I cut out some of the edge on both sides so that it fits on the exterior planks but it it's flush with the cedar shingles then I do the level and then I can do a whole row of shingles.
@@ronaldpeter5133 For larger buildings I do the same.
Thank you! I am inspired..I may indeed do this. ❤
Awesome, let me know how it goes!
I've also done it with random copper nails because I like the way the leeches after Time you get this gray and then you get this Green run
I always used a straight board to sit the shingles on top of because it is three times faster and easier !!!
Definitely a good trick with longer walls 👍
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
Great job !!
Thanks!
Nice work, what did you use for sheathing underneath the tar paper
Thank you!
Great video... I like the idea of using staples to mount your shingles, what is the size of the crown on them? Thanks.
5/8”
Thank you for the great video! I only thought it was a little weird that the shake lines don’t align with the shakes on the other wall.
Also, I just watched another video of a guy saying that the gap for expansion is needed, so I’m a little confused now if it actually is.
@@fracasso1546 Sometimes you have to make compromises on the alignment from one wall to the next when you have multiple windows and doors at different heights to shingle around. As for gaps, this absolutely isn’t necessary, unless your shingles are old and bone dry. All new cut cedar shingles come with plenty of moisture still in them. If you install them tight together, they’ll shrink as they dry out and automatically create gaps plenty large enough for the tiny amount of expansion that might happen later. If you purposely add gaps, this shrinkage will make them even bigger, giving your wall an unprofessional gap-toothed look.
I use an old table to work off first of all. It never fails to go to the job site either and I have two by fours that fasten to the table and I use it and my miter saw on every job anyways. Also I bought an electric stapler just for the ease of use and sometimes there is no hydro. I also use an Olfa knife so I always have a sharp tip for the cross cuts. I have red cedar shakes, and I wish you showed how to do over the window to shed the water. I will figure it out as windows can be quite different I just wondered how others do it.
Good thinking. 👍 I usually do the same, but with an old sheet of plywood on sawhorses. Didn’t do that in this video because all my sawhorses were occupied. I will do another video on how to shed water over a window but here’s the short version. Get some custom made aluminum flashing bent around 120 degree angle, 3” wide on one side of the bend, 6” on the other. Cut it a foot longer than your window is wide. Install it over your window, tight against top of brick mould, over top of building wrap and drainage layer. 3” side sticking out, 6” side going up the wall. Then cedar shingle right over it, butting against the protruding 3” side.
@@cabininthewoods517 Cool, I got a bit of a conundrum with my shingle job. It has a skirt like a lot of older homes and it's in and out and up and down. Also I haven't decided if i will put a border up against the brick wall or shingle up to it.
Shouldn't the rows on the two walls line up with each other?
@ 18:16 the rows don't seem to line up
Good question. Normally the answer is yes, but in this case lining up the rows from one wall to the next would have meant a serious misalignment with the bottom and top of the window, and by extension the door in the front. To me this was worse visually than a misalignment from one wall to the other, especially with the visual separation of the corner boards.
@@cabininthewoods517 Good Grief. Mismatched corner courses is the sign of a rookie installer. Proper use of a Story Pole corrects this problem. Marone!
Please make a video on how to do the roof line.
Planning on this soon!
Since I have watched this, my 18x24 shed will have shingles and not vinyl side. Thanks for the lesson.
Wow, great to hear! Glad you found the video inspiring 🙂
Please clarify the bit about the shingles’ “cup.” Should they be installed with the cup bowing AWAY from the wall or TOWARD it?
Toward.
@@cabininthewoods517 OK. Just so I understand this: the “bowed” part of the shingle(the vertical center line) should be touching the wall, while the outside edges are slightly curled away from the wall. Am I correct?
@@swami1 No, the opposite. Sorry for the confusion.
I saw in another video you’re supposed to leave a little space in between the shingles for water to drain and it allows them to be able to dry out. Do you not find that to be true?
In my experience it’s not necessary. Cedar shingles always come with some residual moisture in them. After installation they gradually dry and shrink, creating gaps automatically. If you leave gaps during installation, you’ll end up with way too big gaps in a few months.
Where is the rain screen behind the shingles?
Just curious what you paid a bundle ?
Do I need to do a double course at the top of a door or window?
Just use off cuts to create the same thickness as what the shingle course adjacent to the window or door will be. A double course might happen to be the right thickness.
Shouldn’t you leave a small space between the shingles for expansion?
Good question. It’s not necessary. Most shingle bundles arrive somewhat moist. After installation, they’ll dry and shrink naturally, creating slight gaps. Even during wet times of year, they’ll never swell back to the size they were when they were first milled. That’s why if you leave gaps, you’ll end up with even bigger gaps that look bad.
@@cabininthewoods517 Thanks. That makes installation a little easier!
Impressive video, but I admittedly have to take everything with a grain of salt since you don't even have your crocs in work mode at 20:00... I'm just kidding, very useful.
From doing repairs to people's houses that have cedar shake and board and batten, I have found that construction adhesive cannot hold onto cedar over time. It's not the construction adhesive that fails, it's the cedar. As it expands and contracts with weather cycles, the construction adhesive resists, and the cedar will eventually just shed the paper thin layer of cedar that is attached to the adhesive. There is really nothing you can do to make the construction adhesive "better," it is doing it's job and holding the wood, but the wood is too soft to hold onto itself.
This makes sense, but oddly enough I’ve never had it happen with my cedar shingle installations, some of which have been up for over 10 years.
My guess is you are a teacher as a profession.
I’m not, but take this is a compliment. Thank you. 🙂 I’ve been told by a few people that I’d be suited to that profession.
If it rains and you haven’t finished all the cedar shingles are the walls OK?
@@exelvalleestrada7074 Yes, as long as you’ve installed breathable building wrap and dimpled wrap to create a drainage layer.
@@cabininthewoods517 thank you!
I thought you were supposed to leave a quarter inch inbetween them to allow for expansion
@@peterhoughton1731Not necessary. Bundles arrive somewhat moist. After installation, they’ll dry and shrink naturally, creating slight gaps. Even during wet times of year, they’ll never swell back to the size they were when they were first milled. That’s why if you leave gaps, you’ll end up with even bigger gaps that look bad and could exposure nails/staples.
It is just me, or do they not align making the corner?
They don’t, for reasons I explained in the video. It was the lesser of two evils.
This guy has no idea what he's talking about. Red cedar shingles last longer. There is no way white cedar shingles will ever last 70 years, 25 at the most. He has no idea about coverage and exposure. You start below the bottom sheathing, not level with it. He also installed the shingles wrong at the window bottom, he did it backwards. Also, you don't install to drawn lines, you always tack a straight edge up and sit the shingles on it. Forget everything in this video. I install shingles for a living in Connecticut and RI.
Appreciate the input 🙂
@@cabininthewoods517 Glad to educate you.
What type of nailer should be used for red cedar shingles?
@@andrehuff3491 same as white cedar, pneumatic siding nailer. Use stainless ring shank.
There is a lot of incorrect information in this video. I appreciate the creators ability to take the constructive criticism
Most everyone does say Cedar shingles last 25 years or so. I wish it was 70.
@@dilcho5480 Your average thin cut, knotty western red cedar shingles, sure. But thick, knot-free eastern white with a drainage layer behind? Way more than 25. I have personally seen a handful of buildings with 70+ year old cedar shingle siding, still going strong.
@@cabininthewoods517 All depends how wet your weather is. And exposure, tree shade etc.
@@peterhoughton1731 Yes, these factors definitely affect lifespan. In ideal conditions, high quality, well-installed shingles can last 70 years or more.
Our cottage on Cape Cod, very humid and exposed to serious weather, has eastern cedar shakes, was built in 1940. The shakes started rotting about ten years ago and needed replacing.
He must be getting paid by the word, lol.
Actually by the view. Thanks for yours 😉
Did I miss the starter strip install????