I had the opportunity to sit down with Tom Silva. Talk about a genuine, supremely experienced guy. If I were an apprentice carpenter, I would shave my head and wear a robe just to work at his side. On top of it all, he is a complete gentleman.
I belive the original design calls for battens rather than plywood.. the battens allow for much more shingle surface area to dry out... its cheaper too
You can be sure of your nail placement by putting a mark on the nail gun's magazine the required distance from the nail exit point. Then, when it's lined up with the edge of the current shingle, you will be sure that the nail is far enough from the bottom edge to be covered by the next coarse.
I have a 8:12 roof with heavy shakes. It’s 25 years old and never leaked, but I used 18” 30lb paper on every row. It slayed down on 3/4 plywood with no breather material under the shake and it’s done great. I would highly recommend using the 30lb paper that is your key to a water tight roof.
I love that, for all the tech, there's still a huge amount of room for craftsmanship. This guy makes it look effortless, but you're looking at decades of experience literally embodied here. You will never remove the human element, or you will do so at your peril. And this wood will store atmospheric Carbon for the years that it is in place, and is completely biodegradable when the time comes to revisit this roof and do it all again. Right now the trees are growing that will provide wood for the next roof, grabbing Carbon from the atmosphere for everyone and, as they do so, providing habitat for the myriad of species that keep us, and those we love, alive on this beautiful planet.
It is a clever idea, but it will be sensitive to the amount of pressure that you use to nail the shingles down with. If you go to heavy, I would guess that you can crush the mesh to the point where it can't function as intended. You need to by a good quality mesh from a supplier who stands by their product. Cheap is not the answer here.
I remember watching This Ole House in 1990 while visiting the USA. The episode I saw was how to replace damaged shingles on the side of a house. First time I ever saw a slate/shingle ripper being used. Now I have one and have used it to replace slates on my own roof. It's a great program and I'm pleased it is still going, and teaching the new generation how to do things properly.
Shouldn't you be laying down a new roll of that Matrix Nylon Mesh underneath each new roll of shingles? The shingles other than the base ones are still going to get wet underneath and rot and mold is going to build, if not properly aired out.
I used to mark the joints in the starter under course on top of the upper to avoid landing second course joints there. 1 1/2 side lap but also a 3/4 offset from the joints in the previous course. We also used to set the starter course to a string line. Sometimes with old buildings you have to follow what is.
The extra felt stripping you're referring to is to go over the healap area only aka the top part of the shake. It's purpose is to retain water integrity/tightness of the shake since it's very thin at the top. The stripping is not to cover the nails and would deteriorate anything lower than the headlap.
Generally, the ridge shingles are run laterally, ( sideways) with the exposure facing away from the prevailing wind. Snap equidistant lines down from the ridge. On your tablesaw, you can prep some slightly oversized shingles. The first shingle is nailed to the line, then trimmed flush to the opposing angle of the ridge. The adjacent shingle on the opposing side is set to the line, then planed flush to it's brother. The lap on each pair is alternated to ensure strength and resistance to weather. I have seen copper ridges......also all wood ridges pre-fabbed and epoxied together. You do not continue normal shingling.... a teensy course with exposed nails at the ridge is a hack recipe for disaster.
I use a continous ridge vent system consisting of Cor-A-Vent v-600 with a custom fabricated copper trac rack over it. Saddled ridge shakes are then cut in a table saw and glued in place in the rack. We do it the same way with slate. Just nailing a ridge shake up there is 8 trac tape player technology and there are better ways to do things today. This also addresses proper attic ventilation per code as required in most municipalities.
A long board 5 inches wide and 8 or 10 feet long is set on the previously nailed shingle course with its lowest edge flush with the lowest edge of that previously nailed shingle course. Then two 18" long 1x2 strips are tacked to the board on either end and run up the roof and tacked in place with one double headed nail each. Then all the shingles are laid where they need to be along the upper edge of that 5" wide board. The 5 inches determines the shingle exposure (you can make it 4 inches, or 6 inches etc.) and when all the shingles are in place after you shuffled some to make sure their edges are well away from the joints beneath, you are now ready to go bang, bang, bang, all down the length of the 10 foot long row you just laid. ZOOM! No more nonsense of laying one shingle and then nailing that one shingle. Next, you pull the double headed nails holding the two strips of wood on the ends of the board to the roof, and move the ten foot long board further along the roof and tack it there to continue that row of shingles. And where did I first see this done? By some guy named Norm Abrams on some TV show called This Old House many years ago. I wonder if the guys in this video ever watched that?
when I was doing it in Canada/Vancouver,we laid felt paper between each layer of the wood and starting row got two layer of felt paper and two layer of wood shake.with 25 years warranty! that was 1988,and most of those still having the same roof
Only thing id do differently is to hammer them rather then using the nailgun. Ive had a few roofers tell me hammered nails hold up better to high winds.
I did not see how the roof sheathing for the shingles was attached to the roof through the 5" of insulation. I am curious to see a detail here. Perhaps it was shown in a previous episode ?
Wood shingles look good for a few years but replacement is a pain. Just do standing seam or another metal product that resembles a shake and call it a day.
Me on the roof: "Hey Tommy, I didn't quite understand everything. Could you demonstrate one more row?" ... "Okay Tommy, I think I'm getting it now, but a little iffy on the spacing. Can you show me another row so I'm more confident with the process?" ... "So Tommy, can you show me more of that wonderful nail gun technique on another row? I'm pretty sure I'll have the hang of it then." ... "Yo Tommy, keep up the great work, I'll be back after lunch!"
How does the common every day joe that is doing just a small home grown project get some of that mesh. I am doing a tiny area and had to buy 15 pounds of felt. I would really like to get my hands on that stuff
This Old House: In eastern Massachusetts, how does the cost of a red cedar roof compare to the cost of architectural asphalt (overall cost of both materials and installation)?
Answering my own question for anyone who is curious, I got two quotes on red cedar roof for my 1700 sq ft cape style house and they came in at $60k and $70k. 3-4x asphalt.
The one thing they don't mention about having a wood shingle roof is that your home owners insurance will go up quite a bit due to the burn rate of wood shingles if a fire was to occur. They are also very expensive.
Not in the midwest. Regions that are prone to wildfires such as California one would foolish to use such a flammable product on their. Hence why wood is not really used in Florida for flooding/water issues with rotting.
I did my garage many years ago. Same as what was done here. I only used the Ice and Water shield around the perimeter then tar paper away from the edges. Also there is the debate whether it’s better to hand nail rather than those skimpy automatic nail heads. Some nail guns you are limited to the type of nails you can use. Hot dipped or stainless?
"Skimpy/skinny" nails are required for cedar shakes along with them being stainless steel. I use staples to avoid splitting and countersinking but your stainless steel must be #304 minimum and #310 grade if you're within 15 miles of any saltwater.
Hi, what's the name of the self sealing membrane and also the matrix as i havent seen these readily available in the UK but with brand names i can then look for them. i have flagstone slates on my house roof which needs all stripping and re-roofing so a self sealing breathable membrane would be good as it takes a bigger nail to hold a 3ft piece of flagstone and i want to wood shingle or wood shake my barns & outbuildings which are 150 - 250 years old and in desperate need of renovating - thanks
They're using Grace Brand ice and water shield. Grace invented the self sealing ice guard commonly used and manufactured today. It is the best by far but also 3 times the price of your typical ice guard. It is also the tackiest/stickiest and can be difficult to work with.....it's very unforgiving when trying to install it, you've been warned lol.
@@ericstephens4307 Should mention that you may e confusing the breathable mesh with the self sealing ice & water shield, the ice and water shield is not breathable.
He missed a lot of details here. The biggest is not having a gap over a nail. That is a sure way to get a leak. It may not show up right away, but the life of the roof will be cut by over half. You can see he placed the gap right over a nail, and on the bottom half of the roof that nail is going to see a LOT of water. The other thing is staggering gaps in 3 consecutive courses. That prevents leaks from cracks and wear because the water will form small streams in the cracks and erode the shingle below. Installing shakes is very detailed. You can install a roof and have it look amazing, but it will leak like a sieve and not last 5 years if not done right. Every little detail matters.
Nice approach with the Breather and all BUT in Laying out shingles it is CRUCIAL (especially on roofs) that the course you are laying should Offset widths by 1” or more not only 1,. But 2 courses below it. (If that shingle splits inline with the gap of the shingle below you goy a leak potential.
Man, it's hard to believe anyone still wants a product that costs twice as much just to have the joy of constantly repairing their roof. I understand that some folks are in love with the aesthetic, but wood has to be one of the least effective roofs there is, and unless you've got an 8/12 or steeper, most people don't notice the roof much anyway.
Ya I just got through bustin out 45 squares on an 8/12, 3 layers of shingles, in the Texas sun, and let me tell you what that was the last layer. Anyways the house was super old and the shigles came out of British Columbia, made a pit stop in Iowa, before making It to Texas. P.S. those cedar shingles were on lathing as well, I noticed this ones decked completely.
Great video as always. One question,, don't you have to guage the roof to ensure you get an even guage on all your courses, I do a lot of slate roofs so I'm guessing wood shingle would be the same principle.
All these negative comments about shake roofing, when it's been used since time immemorial. It's relatively inexpensive, it weather's into a beautiful grey, it is a bit of a fire hazard in some areas but let's see how your metal roof lasts a mile from the coast. A good shake roof can last a hundred years with care. Wait till you guys see what the Japanese use!
I live in redwood country, and there's no way a wooden roof a mile from the coast is lasting 100 years. I tore off two this summer, both 40 years old and leaking. Every roof will eventually leak, but it can be really challenging to locate on a wood shingle roof; that's why they've become obsolete. I also don't like metal roofs, but that's a different conversation. Edit: even if the wood could theoretically last 100 years, the nails and underlayment won't, especially on the coast.
@@mendonesiac Mt. Washington is know for it's high winds and poor weather, all the hiker huts on the way up have wood roofs. I think the weather reveal may be shortened to under 5" to make them more stout but hey, good enough for Mt. Washington, good enough for my neighborhood!
@@shaunsullivan7922 If your local code still allows wooden roofs and you love 'em, who am I to disagree? But these days most of us want a low maintenance roof that isn't made out of kindling on the west coast
Not a fan of that mesh sruff. You have to nail down the wood. If you are alowing any kind of gap between the plywood and shingles the whole roof will squeak
Give it time. Everyone seems to think they know the best way to do this stuff. What they don't understand is what works for them may not work for someone else.... Plus building codes won't be the same from state to state.
Our home had wood roof shingles on it for at least 50 years before the next owner covered over them with regular shingles. We did a total tear-off in 2000.
It may look good but thats a TON of work to install, not to mention possible mositure problems and also when its time to get a new roof having to tear all of that out.
Ton of work to maintain, too, especially in a wooded area. I used to have to clean and seal a cedar shake roof every other year for some doctor. It's dangerous work.
Retro Steve.... any roof would have to be torn out to replace it, which is a bear no matter the material. But that's the beauty of a wood roof, if it's maintained, it doesn't ever have to be torn out.
But the direction of the grain and which way the shingles cup should've been explained first a foremost which way u lay the grain towards the roof that matter most. Or siding which ever application but he did not explain that u have to look at the grain of each shingle to lay that inwards and to explain why to do so. So as to lay the grain inwards so it won't cut out but cup inwards and also didn't lay a wider shingle and explain how to nail a wider shingle as to apposed a skinnier and how to nail fa wider one. Inch stage on the seam minimum nail an eighth inch in on skinnier shingles but nailing on a wider shingle should've been explained as well as which way to lay the grain as to account for the natural cupping of the wood.
Please explain how the word matrix is a valid term for your "breathing material" and why , if it's stated purpose is to allow moisture to escape, it's not used between courses. Is there no moisture there??
The only down side I could see to doing that would be that when they dried out the nails would no longer be tightly gripping the wood allowing for loose shingles and/or water leaks
Some say, they're still lining up the first row...The worst way to roof is moving back and forth...And what Tommy did there is the easiest part of doing Ceder...Weave an outside corner, or run an eyebrow or show the final cut to cover the flashing or the step flashing along that side...
@@godbluffvdgg yes, I would have much rather had this be an hour long video on how to install shingles than some basics to help people get started. They owe us so much more
@@mike93lx You know you're absolutely RIGHT! Tommy should be personally instructing ANYONE that decided to install Cedar, or any other type roof. This includes visits to the job site, Maybe throw up some roof Jacks and junk...And, Would it kill him to maybe run out some valleys and dormers for them? I'm boycotting TOH until I am satisfied! Thanks for pointing out the obvious neglect on their part!
When installing a wood roof and paying the upcharge compared to an asphalt roof, it would be tremendously silly to use wood shingles (AS IN THIS INSTALL) to save on the extra cost of the wood shakes. The roof would look 10 times better for an extra 30% in the total cost by using shakes rather than shingles. I think for the 50+ years age of the wood roof it's best to pay the extra cost of the shakes and live with an amazing looking roof rather than save on the shingles and have to live with a mediocre looking wood roof.
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I absolutely love this man. I’ve learned so much throughout the years from him.
Probably one of the best and most detailed videos this channel has done in awhile
I had the opportunity to sit down with Tom Silva. Talk about a genuine, supremely experienced guy. If I were an apprentice carpenter, I would shave my head and wear a robe just to work at his side. On top of it all, he is a complete gentleman.
I belive the original design calls for battens rather than plywood.. the battens allow for much more shingle surface area to dry out... its cheaper too
You can be sure of your nail placement by putting a mark on the nail gun's magazine the required distance from the nail exit point. Then, when it's lined up with the edge of the current shingle, you will be sure that the nail is far enough from the bottom edge to be covered by the next coarse.
Nice
Good hack
I have a 8:12 roof with heavy shakes. It’s 25 years old and never leaked, but I used 18” 30lb paper on every row. It slayed down on 3/4 plywood with no breather material under the shake and it’s done great. I would highly recommend using the 30lb paper that is your key to a water tight roof.
It would be ideal if we saw how finished roof looks like at the end. Other than that very informative episode
I
I love that, for all the tech, there's still a huge amount of room for craftsmanship. This guy makes it look effortless, but you're looking at decades of experience literally embodied here. You will never remove the human element, or you will do so at your peril. And this wood will store atmospheric Carbon for the years that it is in place, and is completely biodegradable when the time comes to revisit this roof and do it all again. Right now the trees are growing that will provide wood for the next roof, grabbing Carbon from the atmosphere for everyone and, as they do so, providing habitat for the myriad of species that keep us, and those we love, alive on this beautiful planet.
Wow, As a former roofer for many years, I gotta say that breather mesh underlay is ingenious.
they make it for sidewalls too
What's the life span for a wood shingle roof with and without the mesh underlay?
Faster than skip sheathing
SlickWilly with skip sheathing 50 years if attic is vented well
It is a clever idea, but it will be sensitive to the amount of pressure that you use to nail the shingles down with. If you go to heavy, I would guess that you can crush the mesh to the point where it can't function as intended. You need to by a good quality mesh from a supplier who stands by their product. Cheap is not the answer here.
should make an 8 hour episode showing every detail of the process
I love this old house! It inspires me to become a carpenter. Keep up the good work guys
I remember watching This Ole House in 1990 while visiting the USA. The episode I saw was how to replace damaged shingles on the side of a house. First time I ever saw a slate/shingle ripper being used. Now I have one and have used it to replace slates on my own roof. It's a great program and I'm pleased it is still going, and teaching the new generation how to do things properly.
I put on wood shingles for 20 years, we used a hatchet with a gauge set on 5.5" then go end to end and pop a line every 8 coarsest to keep straight.
Beautiful! That roof should last a lifetime.
Does that mesh underlayment need to be laid over the whole roof or just under the first row?
Very helpful for getting started, thank you! My trapezoid shaped roof required some re-figuring, but this got the project in motion.
Shouldn't you be laying down a new roll of that Matrix Nylon Mesh underneath each new roll of shingles? The shingles other than the base ones are still going to get wet underneath and rot and mold is going to build, if not properly aired out.
I used to mark the joints in the starter under course on top of the upper to avoid landing second course joints there. 1 1/2 side lap but also a 3/4 offset from the joints in the previous course. We also used to set the starter course to a string line. Sometimes with old buildings you have to follow what is.
Oh my gosh I would love to see the previous part, really nice work!
very useful video. thanks! I'm going to start putting up my shingles in 2-3 months
I was taught to install a 12" wide strip of felt paper between each course that covers the nails. Just cut the roll of felt with a sawsall.
The extra felt stripping you're referring to is to go over the healap area only aka the top part of the shake. It's purpose is to retain water integrity/tightness of the shake since it's very thin at the top. The stripping is not to cover the nails and would deteriorate anything lower than the headlap.
If you use the mesh underlayment it looks like you don't have to use felt between layers. Is that correct? Thanks!
I wonder how they do the ridge with a cedar shingle. Great episode.
Alternate the overlap as you go down. Same way you would weave a corner wall.
Generally, the ridge shingles are run laterally, ( sideways) with the exposure facing away from the prevailing wind. Snap equidistant lines down from the ridge. On your tablesaw, you can prep some slightly oversized shingles. The first shingle is nailed to the line, then trimmed flush to the opposing angle of the ridge. The adjacent shingle on the opposing side is set to the line, then planed flush to it's brother. The lap on each pair is alternated to ensure strength and resistance to weather. I have seen copper ridges......also all wood ridges pre-fabbed and epoxied together. You do not continue normal shingling.... a teensy course with exposed nails at the ridge is a hack recipe for disaster.
I use a continous ridge vent system consisting of Cor-A-Vent v-600 with a custom fabricated copper trac rack over it. Saddled ridge shakes are then cut in a table saw and glued in place in the rack. We do it the same way with slate. Just nailing a ridge shake up there is 8 trac tape player technology and there are better ways to do things today. This also addresses proper attic ventilation per code as required in most municipalities.
Ive bent flashing as an undercoat for the ridge
Cedar shingle roof are so luxurious looking.
That pretty awesome. Always wanted a wood shingle roof on my log home.
A long board 5 inches wide and 8 or 10 feet long is set on the previously nailed shingle course with its lowest edge flush with the lowest edge of that previously nailed shingle course. Then two 18" long 1x2 strips are tacked to the board on either end and run up the roof and tacked in place with one double headed nail each. Then all the shingles are laid where they need to be along the upper edge of that 5" wide board. The 5 inches determines the shingle exposure (you can make it 4 inches, or 6 inches etc.) and when all the shingles are in place after you shuffled some to make sure their edges are well away from the joints beneath, you are now ready to go bang, bang, bang, all down the length of the 10 foot long row you just laid. ZOOM! No more nonsense of laying one shingle and then nailing that one shingle. Next, you pull the double headed nails holding the two strips of wood on the ends of the board to the roof, and move the ten foot long board further along the roof and tack it there to continue that row of shingles. And where did I first see this done? By some guy named Norm Abrams on some TV show called This Old House many years ago. I wonder if the guys in this video ever watched that?
when I was doing it in Canada/Vancouver,we laid felt paper between each layer of the wood and starting row got two layer of felt paper and two layer of wood shake.with 25 years warranty! that was 1988,and most of those still having the same roof
that would be wood shakes, this is wood shingle
What a great teacher! Thank you
Tom is THE MAN
That is so neat and very educational! Thanks!
Only thing id do differently is to hammer them rather then using the nailgun. Ive had a few roofers tell me hammered nails hold up better to high winds.
I did not see how the roof sheathing for the shingles was attached to the roof through the 5" of insulation. I am curious to see a detail here. Perhaps it was shown in a previous episode ?
Same question on the inverted roof. I can only assume they used adhesive since it was a semi-rigid rock wool.
Nailed along the edges and screwed in the field using long screws.
It was boxed out.
@@mitchdenner9743, Only along the edges. In the field, it's just screwed with long screws.
@@augustreil obviously
Wood shingles look good for a few years but replacement is a pain. Just do standing seam or another metal product that resembles a shake and call it a day.
How much x sq F. ???
It’s a very good look, I just hope the longevity of the roof is good.
Iv been roofing for 20 yrs! Good video!
Tom silva ,the best ! ,Tony from Canada 🇨🇦
Do roofing in phx az and in summer then tell me how much you like to roof!!!!
I did it once...ONCE! 😭
Me on the roof: "Hey Tommy, I didn't quite understand everything. Could you demonstrate one more row?" ... "Okay Tommy, I think I'm getting it now, but a little iffy on the spacing. Can you show me another row so I'm more confident with the process?" ... "So Tommy, can you show me more of that wonderful nail gun technique on another row? I'm pretty sure I'll have the hang of it then." ... "Yo Tommy, keep up the great work, I'll be back after lunch!"
I'm pretty sure I work with you!
I love hard work. I can watch other people doing it all day.
Look out!
Here comes your insurance rep! 😀
Love all the safety equipment.
How does the common every day joe that is doing just a small home grown project get some of that mesh. I am doing a tiny area and had to buy 15 pounds of felt. I would really like to get my hands on that stuff
Please show how to do clay shingles, I love my shingles but always worried about repairs and replacement
Na I'd rather just charge you $1,000,000 instead. 😂
Great video really educational for the biggers
This Old House: In eastern Massachusetts, how does the cost of a red cedar roof compare to the cost of architectural asphalt (overall cost of both materials and installation)?
Answering my own question for anyone who is curious, I got two quotes on red cedar roof for my 1700 sq ft cape style house and they came in at $60k and $70k. 3-4x asphalt.
The one thing they don't mention about having a wood shingle roof is that your home owners insurance will go up quite a bit due to the burn rate of wood shingles if a fire was to occur. They are also very expensive.
Not in the midwest. Regions that are prone to wildfires such as California one would foolish to use such a flammable product on their. Hence why wood is not really used in Florida for flooding/water issues with rotting.
I did my garage many years ago. Same as what was done here. I only used the Ice and Water shield around the perimeter then tar paper away from the edges. Also there is the debate whether it’s better to hand nail rather than those skimpy automatic nail heads. Some nail guns you are limited to the type of nails you can use. Hot dipped or stainless?
Hot dipped galvanize react to cedar.
"Skimpy/skinny" nails are required for cedar shakes along with them being stainless steel. I use staples to avoid splitting and countersinking but your stainless steel must be #304 minimum and #310 grade if you're within 15 miles of any saltwater.
Hi, what's the name of the self sealing membrane and also the matrix as i havent seen these readily available in the UK but with brand names i can then look for them. i have flagstone slates on my house roof which needs all stripping and re-roofing so a self sealing breathable membrane would be good as it takes a bigger nail to hold a 3ft piece of flagstone and i want to wood shingle or wood shake my barns & outbuildings which are 150 - 250 years old and in desperate need of renovating - thanks
They're using Grace Brand ice and water shield. Grace invented the self sealing ice guard commonly used and manufactured today. It is the best by far but also 3 times the price of your typical ice guard. It is also the tackiest/stickiest and can be difficult to work with.....it's very unforgiving when trying to install it, you've been warned lol.
@@ericstephens4307 Should mention that you may e confusing the breathable mesh with the self sealing ice & water shield, the ice and water shield is not breathable.
He missed a lot of details here. The biggest is not having a gap over a nail. That is a sure way to get a leak. It may not show up right away, but the life of the roof will be cut by over half. You can see he placed the gap right over a nail, and on the bottom half of the roof that nail is going to see a LOT of water.
The other thing is staggering gaps in 3 consecutive courses. That prevents leaks from cracks and wear because the water will form small streams in the cracks and erode the shingle below.
Installing shakes is very detailed. You can install a roof and have it look amazing, but it will leak like a sieve and not last 5 years if not done right. Every little detail matters.
where do you find that nylon matrix breathing material?
Nice approach with the Breather and all BUT in Laying out shingles it is CRUCIAL (especially on roofs) that the course you are laying should Offset widths by 1” or more not only 1,. But 2 courses below it. (If that shingle splits inline with the gap of the shingle below you goy a leak potential.
Man, it's hard to believe anyone still wants a product that costs twice as much just to have the joy of constantly repairing their roof. I understand that some folks are in love with the aesthetic, but wood has to be one of the least effective roofs there is, and unless you've got an 8/12 or steeper, most people don't notice the roof much anyway.
I love the staging I have like that would ever happen on a real job site
Ya I just got through bustin out 45 squares on an 8/12, 3 layers of shingles, in the Texas sun, and let me tell you what that was the last layer. Anyways the house was super old and the shigles came out of British Columbia, made a pit stop in Iowa, before making It to Texas.
P.S. those cedar shingles were on lathing as well, I noticed this ones decked completely.
Great tips!
I would like to see how you work around a vent. Good video though!
@thisoldhouse what model # of siding nailer is that the N66C/N75C?
Why not counter batten then batten the roof ??
Great video as always. One question,, don't you have to guage the roof to ensure you get an even guage on all your courses, I do a lot of slate roofs so I'm guessing wood shingle would be the same principle.
Good point, I'm bricklayer...you always need to Guage.
Did a lot as an apprentice summer 1976 pinged a chalkline ridge took ages
I had shingles but the doc cured me with meds
All these negative comments about shake roofing, when it's been used since time immemorial. It's relatively inexpensive, it weather's into a beautiful grey, it is a bit of a fire hazard in some areas but let's see how your metal roof lasts a mile from the coast. A good shake roof can last a hundred years with care. Wait till you guys see what the Japanese use!
I live in redwood country, and there's no way a wooden roof a mile from the coast is lasting 100 years. I tore off two this summer, both 40 years old and leaking. Every roof will eventually leak, but it can be really challenging to locate on a wood shingle roof; that's why they've become obsolete.
I also don't like metal roofs, but that's a different conversation.
Edit: even if the wood could theoretically last 100 years, the nails and underlayment won't, especially on the coast.
@@mendonesiac Mt. Washington is know for it's high winds and poor weather, all the hiker huts on the way up have wood roofs. I think the weather reveal may be shortened to under 5" to make them more stout but hey, good enough for Mt. Washington, good enough for my neighborhood!
@@shaunsullivan7922 If your local code still allows wooden roofs and you love 'em, who am I to disagree? But these days most of us want a low maintenance roof that isn't made out of kindling on the west coast
Why there is not installation of felt every row?
Well it's either cedar breath or asphalt paper that's 12 to 18 inches in width per row of shingles.
perlin strips under the ceader work too.
hell of a slice on that index finger, Tommy
saw that too, ouch! He's a machine though.
Not a fan of that mesh sruff. You have to nail down the wood. If you are alowing any kind of gap between the plywood and shingles the whole roof will squeak
Waiting to read comments about how Tommy is doing this all wrong.
Give it time. Everyone seems to think they know the best way to do this stuff.
What they don't understand is what works for them may not work for someone else.... Plus building codes won't be the same from state to state.
oldtwins na Tommy doesn’t get those nearly as often as the other guys. He rarely makes mistakes is a generally trusted.
drip edge corner lap is backwards, i think :) (and so it begins) :)~
Read my comment! I've been doing it longer than Tommy!!
oldtwins na that string doesn’t look like it touching the ends of the shakes near the end.
Nice vapor barrier you guys installed there! 😂
Very informative, but, people that can afford a copper drip edge and wood shingles would not be installing them themselves.
Or they save on labor and do it themselves. It's what I'm doing on projects. Great materials and self labor.
Some important tips there
Wow I did know that they had wood roofing. How long would that last?
Our home had wood roof shingles on it for at least 50 years before the next owner covered over them with regular shingles. We did a total tear-off in 2000.
suppose to use shingles for starter, and the shakes go over top.
Wish they would show how it looked finished
It may look good but thats a TON of work to install, not to mention possible mositure problems and also when its time to get a new roof having to tear all of that out.
Ton of work to maintain, too, especially in a wooded area. I used to have to clean and seal a cedar shake roof every other year for some doctor. It's dangerous work.
They never say the cost. That membrane stuff ain't cheap.
@@mroldpueblo7879, You're right, it's not cheap, but for what it does, it's a great product.
Retro Steve.... any roof would have to be torn out to replace it, which is a bear no matter the material. But that's the beauty of a wood roof, if it's maintained, it doesn't ever have to be torn out.
Quick question. Shouldn't the breather material go underneath each row of shingles? that way every shingle can dry?
no
I think our code requires interlayment which is not used here.
Skipped this one living in California!
@@Stackali, Must be a fire hazard or the Liberal Tree huggers said No !!
The Master
"Alright guys I'm going to leave you to it" He comes back and everything they did has to be torn off and done again.
That's what i was thinking. LOL
Всё понятно перекрытие четырёхкратное.Молодцы
How come u didn't at first explain which way to lay the shingle with the direction of the grain.
No breather, what's the since of using a nail gun if you have to still use your hammer?
But the direction of the grain and which way the shingles cup should've been explained first a foremost which way u lay the grain towards the roof that matter most. Or siding which ever application but he did not explain that u have to look at the grain of each shingle to lay that inwards and to explain why to do so. So as to lay the grain inwards so it won't cut out but cup inwards and also didn't lay a wider shingle and explain how to nail a wider shingle as to apposed a skinnier and how to nail fa wider one. Inch stage on the seam minimum nail an eighth inch in on skinnier shingles but nailing on a wider shingle should've been explained as well as which way to lay the grain as to account for the natural cupping of the wood.
Please explain how the word matrix is a valid term for your "breathing material" and why , if it's stated purpose is to allow moisture to escape, it's not used between courses. Is there no moisture there??
There is so much to this roof there’s like 8 layers
Nevermind breathablity if cedar touches grace a chemical reaction occurs making "grace cycles"
It's woodshake and we don't have harnesses here. I'm glad to be out of roofing.
That's a wooden shingle/cedar shingle. Shakes are uneven and thicker.
Wouldn't it be better to saturate the shingles in water before you start, then not have to worry about the gaps?
jej3451 no
When we do a Cedar shingle roof, we set up pans and soak them in preservative for 24hrs prior to installation.
The only down side I could see to doing that would be that when they dried out the nails would no longer be tightly gripping the wood allowing for loose shingles and/or water leaks
Splendidly to see Woodglut have new plans which helped me save some money and energy for this construction.
This looks like it would cost twice as much other material choices
Eh oh usually around 4x the cost of a standard asphalt shingle.
Yessir it does, it’s for the richer folk
100$ a bundle to buy it, then labor.
And can last decades longer than asphalt shingles.
Why don't you soak the shingles a bit before install so you don't have to screw around with spacing them apart
That should've been the first if not second direction.
First course has to follow the eave! Second course should be lined!
So you want the first course to be bent like the eve? Looks better if you straighten it out
Some say, they're still lining up the first row...The worst way to roof is moving back and forth...And what Tommy did there is the easiest part of doing Ceder...Weave an outside corner, or run an eyebrow or show the final cut to cover the flashing or the step flashing along that side...
I know, absolutely unacceptable that they would give people good instruction to get started on roofing for free. How dare they.
@@mike93lx I know your being facetious but. Incomplete information is poor information...
@@godbluffvdgg yes, I would have much rather had this be an hour long video on how to install shingles than some basics to help people get started. They owe us so much more
@@mike93lx You know you're absolutely RIGHT! Tommy should be personally instructing ANYONE that decided to install Cedar, or any other type roof. This includes visits to the job site, Maybe throw up some roof Jacks and junk...And, Would it kill him to maybe run out some valleys and dormers for them? I'm boycotting TOH until I am satisfied! Thanks for pointing out the obvious neglect on their part!
This is a a vanilla video. I need to know how to do valleys
When installing a wood roof and paying the upcharge compared to an asphalt roof, it would be tremendously silly to use wood shingles (AS IN THIS INSTALL) to save on the extra cost of the wood shakes. The roof would look 10 times better for an extra 30% in the total cost by using shakes rather than shingles. I think for the 50+ years age of the wood roof it's best to pay the extra cost of the shakes and live with an amazing looking roof rather than save on the shingles and have to live with a mediocre looking wood roof.
Megusta
Be the smart one when you stand up on your feet all day in a 7-12 pitch roof it will kill you feet always set down or find a comfortable position
Negative on the nylon mesh. Just another sponsor with its hand out for money.
Fall harnesses ate only for the talent.
That's going to be a lot of work replacing the roof when it goes bad
You are installing the shakes wrong.
Got to address fire hazard with wood shingles, roof or siding. They'll burn almost explosively untreated.
They come with a fire retardant already on the shingles if they are for the roof