Architect specified woven shingle corners for our summer house. I changed to corner boards because fragile woven corners near grade suffer from mower strikes and are really a lot of work to repair.
Its called laced. Yes a little proud so the curve will not compound over several courses.I,ve installed a hundred miles of this stuff and your right on the mark. Good video.
Nice video, I overhand my shingle by 1" and nail the shingle on. Then I trim the over hang with a trim router and a straight bit with a flush cut bearing. Works perfect and is much faster.
I lived in about 45 minutes SE of Boston when I was in my high school years. That is where I fell in love with the look of the white cedar shingles. I was using a 1/4" stapler with stainless steel fasteners on this project. It has worked well for me on other projects. Would love to get the siding nailer but can only justify so having so many tools. Would agree a nail is the best fastener though.
good video, But the best part is seeing the corner wrap of tar paper. Could be sticky tape but tar paper is fine. That keeps the corner weather tight over the years. Typar and Tyvek are not reliable water shields. I fix a lot of rot because people don't flash and wrap corners properly. Good job, thxs
The Block plane gives the tradesman a certain amount of forgiveness… the Rotozip is certainly a modern approach. The down side is that it requires an extension cord, which means electricity. Then there are the additional bits, dust masks and hearing protection… 👍. There are trade offs for every choice.
Great tip Igor. I did not think about that tool and if you set your depth right you can make the gentle arc that comes with this task. The plane is nice to use though...Thanks! B
good video. in the low areas you could use a smaller plane to take the role but take take offense, still a very nice job.... do you ever use copper foil?
Can you show a shingled porch post? It's all woven, of course, and I'd like to learn that. I've shingled my house (the lower parts!) and wove the corners with a little instruction. I want to do the posts now.
The plane in the video and the one I use.. and love is the Veritas Standard low angle block plane. The sharper it is the more fun the job. Scribing with a saw certainly works, I use a jig saw quite a bit for shakes, but it is not as quiet and peaceful as a block plane. The Veritas has some weigh to it which I find helps out making smooth shavings Brice.
I am partial to Typar for several reasons the most important it that the sugars inside of the cedar shingles will break down Tyvek over time, this info is located on their website. I like the staples because I had a stapler and they work well, I did use stainless staples. I did felt the corners and highly recommend it. Thanks for the comment, Brice
Thanks, I agree about being able to use a smaller lighter plane to trim up the corners, it would certainly keep my pouch a litte lighter as well. Have never used copper foil but it sound nice...where can I research that? Cheers, Brice
im in mass on the ocean(swampscott), shingles look great and are very common around here especially on old homes just wondering though, why did you use a brad nailer instead of a siding nailer?
Great video, any thoughts on the staple vs a siding nailer? In my climate stainless staples or double galv nails are code. Luckily in my climate I don't need to strap. Also, that corner, looks like houise was wrapped with typar, and did you felt the corners? This just a little extra protection?
Hey sir, great video. I've got a question for you. I noticed you were using a pneumatic nail gun. What size of brad nails were you using, or would you recommend using please? Thanks!
wanna do that to all my corners. but also would love a video and help replacing rooted/bad shingles on my first corse on bottom of walls. do you have a video help for me? or any suggestions. thanks.
We just did this on our house but we used a jigsaw for all the cuts and a nailgun using 1 1/4" galvanized nails. It doesn't look like you chalked any lines, were you just eyeing it out?
They will last longer if they are dipped and then hung. We have a larger overhang and did not see the need for the extra and time consuming step. You can even order pre-stain shingles but they are expensive.
If you have cedar shake siding that is beginning to start curling in some areas ever so slightly, is it alright to sink a couple finish nails into the lower portion of the shake below the upper shake line? The problem isn't looking so bad yet, however I would like to do preventative maintenance (if possible) to help extend the life of these already somewhat older cedar shakes.
I was using a 1/4" staple gun, it was what I have and on the two buildings that I have shingled, everything is aging well. However, based on other people's feedback and research a 1/2" stapler sounds like the best tool for the job.
Love this video, thanks for posting it. It has been helpful. Can you tell me what kind of block plane you are using? Or even better the make and model number.? I'm from Bay Area , CA and recently have been doing more and more sidewall shingles. And by trade I'm a framing contractor but we usually end up doing the siding as well. We tried using block planes with poor results to weave corners. Ended up just scribing each piece and ripping freehand on table saw. We are using western red cedar.
Why are you installing sidewall shingles on a flat surface? Did I miss the lath strips? Without the lath boards there is no ventilation, which protects the shingles from condensation and water vapor.
***** You're 5 months late on the reply man, but thanks anyways. I used 2" nails and story board on the edges. Then I stained it with a brush and airless paint sprayer. Everything looks good.
I don't think any nails should be seen like thst last nail you put in corner?alsi corner hoint needs to be sealed with clear silicon or something. Also very last row at top you cant nail top and have nails visible.so i would use liquid nails for cery last row at the too.nails must not be visible in cedar shake siding
you really dont need to plane anything. start with the corner shingle and work your way back into the series, cutting one shingle to size if need be. just one more tool to set down pick up and waste time using.
small wireless skillsaw would do the same trick.. you dont have to cut it rough using a knife.. you just cut right on the mark and nail... no plane needed.. still great job Brice... very time-consuming though
Not trying to be a dick but there's at least 5 ways I can think of that are faster than this method and accomplish the same thing. Even a handsaw would be faster... I always use a compact router with a flush cut bit but even a drywall cutout tool will work. Jigsaws work. Sawzall, shingle ax lol sharp side strike chisel... I'm just saying. I know this guy is doing a fit project and it's on his house so he is block planing it which is I'm sure a great finish but for practical purposes hack it off with a router or jigsaw
+xTwiistedJumps I agree completely there are easier way to do it...I like your idea of the flush cut router bit. For me and in a non-commercial setting nothing beats using a dust free hand tool to finish it up. Thanks for the other suggestions and feedback.
Architect specified woven shingle corners for our summer house. I changed to corner boards because fragile woven corners near grade suffer from mower strikes and are really a lot of work to repair.
Its called laced. Yes a little proud so the curve will not compound over several courses.I,ve installed a hundred miles of this stuff and your right on the mark. Good video.
Thanks Jason.
Nice video, I overhand my shingle by 1" and nail the shingle on. Then I trim the over hang with a trim router and a straight bit with a flush cut bearing. Works perfect and is much faster.
I lived in about 45 minutes SE of Boston when I was in my high school years. That is where I fell in love with the look of the white cedar shingles.
I was using a 1/4" stapler with stainless steel fasteners on this project. It has worked well for me on other projects. Would love to get the siding nailer but can only justify so having so many tools.
Would agree a nail is the best fastener though.
good video, But the best part is seeing the corner wrap of tar paper. Could be sticky tape but tar paper is fine. That keeps the corner weather tight over the years. Typar and Tyvek are not reliable water shields. I fix a lot of rot because people don't flash and wrap corners properly. Good job, thxs
Thanks a bunch, I had a lot of fun putting it together, more videos on the way.
What kind of wood are u using for the shingles?
I don't miss those old days of using a plane. All roto-zip now on Cape Cod great video for first timers
Rotozips are for bitches!
The Block plane gives the tradesman a certain amount of forgiveness… the Rotozip is certainly a modern approach. The down side is that it requires an extension cord, which means electricity. Then there are the additional bits, dust masks and hearing protection… 👍. There are trade offs for every choice.
Thank you for your video! Very helpful
Great video. Very informative. Beautiful detail work. Thanks.
Great tip Igor. I did not think about that tool and if you set your depth right you can make the gentle arc that comes with this task. The plane is nice to use though...Thanks!
B
good video. in the low areas you could use a smaller plane to take the role but take take offense, still a very nice job....
do you ever use copper foil?
Can you show a shingled porch post? It's all woven, of course, and I'd like to learn that. I've shingled my house (the lower parts!) and wove the corners with a little instruction. I want to do the posts now.
i love the attention to detail
Thanks!
excellent demonstration. Thanks!
The plane in the video and the one I use.. and love is the Veritas Standard low angle block plane. The sharper it is the more fun the job. Scribing with a saw certainly works, I use a jig saw quite a bit for shakes, but it is not as quiet and peaceful as a block plane. The Veritas has some weigh to it which I find helps out making smooth shavings
Brice.
I am partial to Typar for several reasons the most important it that the sugars inside of the cedar shingles will break down Tyvek over time, this info is located on their website. I like the staples because I had a stapler and they work well, I did use stainless staples. I did felt the corners and highly recommend it.
Thanks for the comment,
Brice
tks , great video , well explained , looking to apply to my shed and never liked the vertical corner boards style ,
Thanks,
I agree about being able to use a smaller lighter plane to trim up the corners, it would certainly keep my pouch a litte lighter as well.
Have never used copper foil but it sound nice...where can I research that?
Cheers,
Brice
What about shingling around angular Bay windows?
im in mass on the ocean(swampscott), shingles look great and are very common around here especially on old homes
just wondering though, why did you use a brad nailer instead of a siding nailer?
Crazy right
What kind & size of nails do you use to nail the corners? Are they stainless nails?
Great video, any thoughts on the staple vs a siding nailer? In my climate stainless staples or double galv nails are code. Luckily in my climate I don't need to strap. Also, that corner, looks like houise was wrapped with typar, and did you felt the corners? This just a little extra protection?
Hey sir, great video. I've got a question for you. I noticed you were using a pneumatic nail gun. What size of brad nails were you using, or would you recommend using please? Thanks!
....and nevermind. I saw someone else asked in the comments below. Thanks again! :)
Nice work👍
Do shingles go over house wrap. Nothing between?
wanna do that to all my corners. but also would love a video and help replacing rooted/bad shingles on my first corse on bottom of walls. do you have a video help for me? or any suggestions. thanks.
We just did this on our house but we used a jigsaw for all the cuts and a nailgun using 1 1/4" galvanized nails. It doesn't look like you chalked any lines, were you just eyeing it out?
One more question, do you have any thoughts on Tyvek vs Typar (or any other building wrap) or are you partial to the typar?
They will last longer if they are dipped and then hung. We have a larger overhang and did not see the need for the extra and time consuming step. You can even order pre-stain shingles but they are expensive.
What do you mean
great stuff brother.. thanks for sharing.
If you have cedar shake siding that is beginning to start curling in some areas ever so slightly, is it alright to sink a couple finish nails into the lower portion of the shake below the upper shake line? The problem isn't looking so bad yet, however I would like to do preventative maintenance (if possible) to help extend the life of these already somewhat older cedar shakes.
No, don't do that
What are you using for nails?
Do a video on installing shakes on an inside corner.
Thanks bud appreciate it! Keep up good work
What type of nails are you using?
Thanks for this!
Brice,
Great instruction. Do you know of any cheaper alternatives to the hand planer you recommended?
Josh
Hi Josh, you can use a utility knife with a new blade. I saw it on This Old House. Somebody else put a bead of construction glue in the corner.
Can I ask what kind of nail gun and nail he was using? Thanks in advance!
I was using a 1/4" staple gun, it was what I have and on the two buildings that I have shingled, everything is aging well. However, based on other people's feedback and research a 1/2" stapler sounds like the best tool for the job.
Love this video, thanks for posting it. It has been helpful. Can you tell me what kind of block plane you are using? Or even better the make and model number.? I'm from Bay Area , CA and recently have been doing more and more sidewall shingles. And by trade I'm a framing contractor but we usually end up doing the siding as well. We tried using block planes with poor results to weave corners. Ended up just scribing each piece and ripping freehand on table saw. We are using western red cedar.
Why are you installing sidewall shingles on a flat surface? Did I miss the lath strips? Without the lath boards there is no ventilation, which protects the shingles from condensation and water vapor.
Can I use a finisher nail gun to nail ALL the shingles?
It's all I have..
youbestbequiet
Well he is using finisher nails... soo whats up with that?
*****
You're 5 months late on the reply man, but thanks anyways. I used 2" nails and story board on the edges. Then I stained it with a brush and airless paint sprayer. Everything looks good.
DumpinMyGun
I usually use 5D nails instead of 6d like you. I guess if you managed not to split shingles it works. They are just a bitch to remove.
Woven corner?
After you scribe the shingle and then go to cut it the process is not seen in the video.Im new at this an
you should make a "How To Make Shingles" video and include which woods are best.
Also, wtf happened to a part 2 of the Toolbox bit?
Staple size?
Good work
Молодец,главное всё понятно
Me gusta como lo ase
I don't think any nails should be seen like thst last nail you put in corner?alsi corner hoint needs to be sealed with clear silicon or something.
Also very last row at top you cant nail top and have nails visible.so i would use liquid nails for cery last row at the too.nails must not be visible in cedar shake siding
I think it is need put caulk all the pieces
you really dont need to plane anything. start with the corner shingle and work your way back into the series, cutting one shingle to size if need be. just one more tool to set down pick up and waste time using.
small wireless skillsaw would do the same trick.. you dont have to cut it rough using a knife.. you just cut right on the mark and nail... no plane needed.. still great job Brice... very time-consuming though
I do the skills saw
Nice
Check Tom Silva or Norm Abram
Woven corner, not weaved.
@ 3 seconds, did he have to sneeze or something? lol
+Jamie Veaudry I never noticed that before...that is quite funny looking after I saw what you were talking about.
+Timber Frame HQ great video though, I love the look!
There is a way faster way of doing this,i get paid by the ft or sq,scribe it,cut it on the line with a cordless saw,glue and brad the corner
"Woven Corner" not "Weaved [sic] Corner".
Woven
Not trying to be a dick but there's at least 5 ways I can think of that are faster than this method and accomplish the same thing. Even a handsaw would be faster... I always use a compact router with a flush cut bit but even a drywall cutout tool will work. Jigsaws work. Sawzall, shingle ax lol sharp side strike chisel... I'm just saying. I know this guy is doing a fit project and it's on his house so he is block planing it which is I'm sure a great finish but for practical purposes hack it off with a router or jigsaw
+xTwiistedJumps I agree completely there are easier way to do it...I like your idea of the flush cut router bit. For me and in a non-commercial setting nothing beats using a dust free hand tool to finish it up. Thanks for the other suggestions and feedback.
Those are some low quality white cedar shingles.
wouldn't make any money doing it this way! it would take forever to do a 2 story corner.
and you dont use finish nails staples or nails only wtf?
So what about climate change and that corner separating? I would hate to go thru all of that for it to have a gap thru the seasons.