How to Build Ultimate Budget FPV Drone Build 2021 // Beginner Guide
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2021
- FC & ESC: bit.ly/3xEs15d
iFlight Frame: bit.ly/2FtWexy
VTX: bit.ly/32ULxgd
Antennas: bit.ly/2Sk5d6D
Motor Wrap: bit.ly/3chFGUf
Nylon Stands: bit.ly/3iHDsk6
FPV camera: bit.ly/3uaOJzU
Motors: amaxshop.com/index.php?route=...
Budget Motors: bit.ly/3vzSwXO
Budget VTX: bit.ly/2QKX3b4
Budget FPV Camera: bit.ly/2QDK7Uw
Tools:
Hex Drivers: bit.ly/33EGTDN
Hemostat: bit.ly/3nxCXg4
Solder Iron Recommended: bit.ly/34B2FYd
Silicon Pad: bit.ly/36JrTGv
-FPV Merch-
shopdronemesh.com/product-cat...
You need help getting Manufacturing and Product in Market:
dronemeshlabs@gmail.com
Want A Custom Build Email me:
dronemeshlabs@gmail.com
Need Help with something?
dronemeshforum.com
Follow Me on Instagram
/ dronemesh
Follow me on Facebook
/ dronemesh
Consider Following me and supporting on Patreon.
/ dronemesh
-Latest Fav Products-
FC #1: bit.ly/2Vz2Gro
Budget ESC: bit.ly/3elmaIu
-- My Tools & Gear 2020--
Goggles #1: bit.ly/2YEjBwT
Google #2: bit.ly/2YDi4q8
RC Controller: bit.ly/2LR9uxc
Main Battery Charger: bit.ly/2SQGWp9
Fav Soldering Iron: bit.ly/2ylZC9O
--Recording 2020--
Audio Interface: amzn.to/36iajaE
Microphones: amzn.to/3g9dyFR
Lav Microphone: amzn.to/3cNDZi1
Camera: amzn.to/2AEk3Qu
2nd Camera: amzn.to/2Tl1YNN
--PC Specs 2020--
AMD 3950x: amzn.to/2WRqEQx
GTX 2060: amzn.to/2XfEOtC
Auros Elite MB: amzn.to/3bNCQ91
Case: amzn.to/2LGMlwb
RGB Ram: amzn.to/2TmVm1G
Water Cooler: amzn.to/2zgeabR
-- TOP 30x30 4in1 ESC --
Aikon AK32
BG: bit.ly/2uSBI0O
GetFPV: bit.ly/2FU854b
RDQ: bit.ly/2YVkL3K
Tekko32 Metal
BG: bit.ly/2G5VfRC
GetFPV: bit.ly/2VsroYV
RDQ: bit.ly/2UF3WKU
T-Motor F55A
BG: bit.ly/2JIdAo1
GetFPV: bit.ly/2P2i8sp
RDQ: bit.ly/2I3D69n
T-Motor F45A
BG: bit.ly/2CZe9IP
GetFPV: bit.ly/2D3g2U3
RDQ: bit.ly/2YZmCof
Dalrc Rocket
BG: bit.ly/2O5Pcxc
GetFPV: bit.ly/2WQ8Imk
RDQ: bit.ly/2Kg0EKe
-- Best 20x20 4in1 ESC In Order From Best --
HGLRC Forward
BG: bit.ly/2CM2oEG
GETFPV: N/A
RDQ: bit.ly/2GfMKDQ
Aikon AK32 Mini
BG: bit.ly/2Yu2E4p
GetFPV: bit.ly/2KlKlLU
RDQ: bit.ly/2KfQ6KV
Airbot Ori32
BG: bit.ly/2UTK2JF
GETFPV: bit.ly/2KlLfrM
RDQ: bit.ly/2U94tRe
------------------------------------
I highly recommend these products if unsure
Tekko32
bit.ly/2NwffxB
kakuteV2 AIO
bit.ly/2CxQct0
Hakcrc (Best Budget ESC)
bit.ly/2OgrOlO
25km Range on these awesome VTX's
FX2
goo.gl/8PswEP
X2
goo.gl/VsDZ6n
---------------------------------------------------------------
The HEX driver I recommended which i bought 2 sets of (Must have if your into building)
bit.ly/2NwBVxt
Batteries I use
bit.ly/2PlCvQn
Camera I use
amzn.to/2iQHCwV
Standoffs I find to be the best
bit.ly/2CwG17Z
Xt60 Premade I use
bit.ly/2Pmf89j
Heat shrink I mentioned
bit.ly/2PkrVcA
Soldering station
bit.ly/2zZP9za
Some of the links are affiliated links.
Contact: mesh.drone@gmail.com - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D1 | Summer | ถ้าไม่พร้อมลุย ได้ไปคุยกับรากมะม่วง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XlkKtVvBxac/mqdefault.jpg)
FC & ESC: bit.ly/3xEs15d
iFlight Frame: bit.ly/2FtWexy
VTX: bit.ly/32ULxgd
Antennas: bit.ly/2Sk5d6D
Motor Wrap: bit.ly/3chFGUf
Nylon Stands: bit.ly/3iHDsk6
FPV camera: bit.ly/3uaOJzU
Motors: amaxshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_69&product_id=488
Budget Motors: bit.ly/3vzSwXO
Budget VTX: bit.ly/2QKX3b4
Budget FPV Camera: bit.ly/2QDK7Uw
Tools:
Hex Drivers: bit.ly/33EGTDN
Hemostat: bit.ly/3nxCXg4
Solder Iron Recommended: bit.ly/34B2FYd
Silicon Pad: bit.ly/36JrTGv
Hello, I send you an email, can you please answer for it
That link for the hex tool is not what is in your video...
Links don’t work 😔
Deliberately wrong hex tool link, why?
Pet
8
Pp
Kio9i
i love watching things i cant buy
edit: 900 likes damn
@Dogwillhunt orrr… it could be a kid 😕
Or maybe mom's little boy..
@Dogwillhunt or they're a kid bro
@Dogwillhunt or I'm not from US and minimum monthly salary here is 220$
@Dogwillhunt dognutt....... ocean is salty you need to rinse off after sooooo no i live 2 blocks from ocean no swimming bums that i can see but tons of bums peeing and pooping on the beach yay
Multiple things: 1) using a PCB holder/bracket to do the soldering is IMMENSLY helpful 2) fluxing the pads prior to tinning makes the heating and tinning process quicker thus reducing the amount of heat dropped in to the board 3) cleaning and tinning your soldering iron prior to actually doing the work makes the work easier while maximizing heatflow in to the solder which reducing the likelihood of creating cold joints 4) when using lead solder, ABSOLUTELY use some means of ventilation. Lead SOOOO bad for you.
This build isn’t even worth it now, damn economy
@@sethenewman4309yes it is 😂 broke ass go find a better paying job!
Quick note on soldering: The solder wicks towards the heat (towards the tip of your iron). If you have a big pad to do, try applying heat to one side of pad, then move around wire to the other side and apply solder to the heated side you just left. If it is hot enough to melt properly it should flow across pad and wire towards the iron. This should give you more consistent coverage without trying to wipe with the iron like a paintbrush. Thanks for making this video; it is fun to watch!
Or just buy a desoldering gun or a solder sucker… solder wick sucks ass and you’re likely to just dead the thing with it more than actually removing the solder.
Yooo no way for the past week I have been searching for tutorials and build guides and i saw your older videos and was hoping for an update perfect timing.
I really like how your explain stuff for beginners. Every single video out there they expect us to know everything and throw all of those terms out there without explanation. Thank you
Beautiful build, Sam! Nicely done! 😃
About screws, you can never have enough of them! It's like clamps for woodworkers. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Using some flux and brushing your solder tip will help a lot. I know this is an older video but anybody watching it trying to do this for the first time you can get these tiny little needle bottle tip packages of flux, even when you’re using Sauter with flux core, it’s always a good idea to brush and put a tiny bit of flex on your soldering iron to before every connection is soldered
Me: "Budget, ooh I'll watch that"
Also Me: Clicks first link, ESC $170+..."yep nope"
That is budget… if you can’t afford that you need a career change immediately!
@@lonewolftechyeah...piss off with that mindset! there are so many cheaper second hand options on ebay and if a lower quality board means someone getting into the hobby then it's a net positive!
@@lonewolftechcareer change!?😂 Calm down captain maverick I just want it for fun
Awesome build bro, thanks for the easy steps of how to build your own quad . I will definitely be using this video to build my drone . I have few people to help me but their too busy, so I guess I got to doit by myself. Thanks again dude 😎👍
cool guide! one thing to mention.. get a bigger soldering tip for connections like the XT60 connector or the ESC pads :D
And..sometimes soldering flux is just nice to have (even if the solder itself has some flux core inside)
But that's some first-world-problems and not must-have.
Thank you Dronemesh!, my first drone was made using one of your guides. Direct to the point. Cheers!!
Keep building and flying, dude! 🖖😊
hey bro how much did it cost you in total everything included?
@@eminent8633 everything is in the description. Go check, click on the links and add it up.
FINALLY! A new 2021 drone build!
I have been searching for something like this for a looooong time. Perfect video
Always love your build videos, please try make more of them
If you use the pinout diagrams and blueprints, I highly recommend laminating them (can buy easy sheets from Staples etc) and making a binder ring to hold them all and just leave them on your desk. It's nice having those references rather than always having it up on PC screen when doing 19 other things on PC. This is how I was doing it in my robotics degree.
You can also buy soldering iron tips that are in different shapes and configurations like a U-shaped one or what have you. Thermal tape on the backside especially with those horseshoes for your power cables are pretty awesome. Ideas as well.
finally, we are waiting for the update
Nice! I’m building myself a beater quad with similar components 💪🏽
Awesome video! Looking to do my 1st build this fall and I will most DEFINITELY be referring to this video!
My Mamba stack flies just as well as any of my F7 flight controllers. The 35a Mamba ESC in my 4 inch has been running for months with no problems at all.
The connector for the Antenna at back of Quad is a SMA Jack, The MMCX connector is the one that connects the pigtail to back of VTX x
this channel is underrated :) thanks for vid
Rather relaxing and cool to watch :) thanks for the inspiration for the next project
This is a really cool video as a complete novice to drones, would love an updated part list and possibly a small video going over them.
This is so helpfull!!!! really apreciate this videos... thanks!!!
As of today, this is $388 but some of the components are on sale.
Additionally it would be cheaper if you already bought some of these. For example, the link has you buy a whole set of nylon standoffs but you only need four for this build. The antennas come in a pack of two etc
The chip shortage really bumped up and made economical parts premium :(
388 is not a budget build
Consider grabbing a TS-80P or TS-100 iron and some thinner gauge solder, it'll make working with those pads a lot easier
Thank you, I have a lot to learn but folks like you are so helpful and the real reason why I started to use TH-cam to begin with. Saving the video.
CONGRATS YOU WERE RANDOMLY SELECTED FOR THE DRONE GIVEAWAY QUICKLY INBOX ABOVE👆TO CLAIM.
this is a really good tutorial video. everything is nicely explained and you even did some mistakes. it shows that it doesn't have to be perfect. some people are afraid of doing things like this cause they don't want to mess up
Story of my life, I want it to be perfect and I doubt my ability for the quality needed in the details so I just don’t try…horrible outlook, trying to break that habit.
With this exact config, what kind of range and battery life could you expect?
This was a really well done video, Good Job!
i love your vids man very helpful in building .....cant wait to save for new frame cant fly for now :(
when will second video about this build came out?
The holes in the pc board are there to put in a tinned piece of wire in to be soldiered correctly, not to fill up with a big blob of soldier and short out your board.
Maybe the wire couldn't go through so he did it as a SMD
it hrut me to watch too lol
But like still a great vid
I kept wondering why he was doing this. So bad. Just don't solder this way.
I just watched the video, and cringed. I doubt he used any static protection either.
ALWAYS make sure the tips shiny ✨
Super clean & budget build !!👌👌👌
Great video! I found that using vcc rather than the 9 volt pad on the vtx gave me alot better performance with the tank . from everything I have read they cant take all the voltage you can throw at them.
Hi Jim , So should I use the vcc pad instead of the 9v pad on the vtx? Would that be better ?
@@AdrenalineAshRC use 9v if it works fine and u get the full power 800mw then leave it. If you don't then move it to vcc
@@AdrenalineAshRC make sure the vtx you are using is rated for vcc. the tank he used in the video is.
@@jimlibey4042 thanks a lot bro 😎 really appreciate your help 🙏🏻
If you get any cold solder joints, try holding the iron on pad for a second or two longer before applying solder/wire. I saw some potential points of failure where the solder did not get fluid enough.
Just use 63-37 and you can't get cold solder joints
@@fearlessflyersfpv420 If you don't hold the iron on long enough to heat up the pad underneath fully - yes you can. Need to heat up both pretty well for a good strong bond. No use being in a hurry. Cold solder joints can show up months later as intermittent problems until the solder joint is found and refreshed. Can even be years later due to expansion/contraction from temp changes. I do use classic 60-40 rosin core.
@@nefariumxxx 63-37 and 60-40 don't work the same, I am not sure if you are aware of the difference or not. For electronics 63-37 is superior, but I get what you are saying, There is a still an essential difference between 63-37 and 60-40. Maybe check it out to see what I mean (uetectic).
Right on brother . Outstanding you did this video perfectly 🤘🏻
Adding a capacitor to a modern 4in1, even on 6s, is in my opinion so much overkill. (most of them run 2-4000 uF low ESR smd caps already built in) Plus - by using the throughhole package you always risk a short on your bat voltage ... frying everything - even if you shrinkwrap the little legs/clearcoat it. If you want smoothing for voltage spikes I would suggest buying a small PCB board which comes in many different uF - values instead of the big ones with exposed spiny metal legs. :D
@Rosetta Stoned Love the name 😂👌
the best explanation so far
What stupid Name is that ☠️
@@abhilashagarwal7935 I wouldnt talk if I were you
I never use the conical tip. you dropped a solder blob on one of the motor wires just to let people know and watch out for that like you said. Awesome frame and might get that one to fit my ESC.
I have made this exact build but have a few problems with it, would be great if you uploaded the configuration video for Betaflight
I think you are the Bob Ross of FPV 🤣 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
I've watched several builds from different channels and I was wondering if anyone knew you can insert the wires into those holes and still solder them down. FYI, 20 years Navy Electronic Repair Technician now an Electrical Engineer, just in case someone wanted to comment that I was talking out my butt.
I was thinking the same thing - it's going to be vibrating a lot, so you need all the mechanical strength you can get.
Yes, better make it through holes.
0 qualifications here so don't take me at my word, but I find if you put the wires through the holes and solder, the 90° bend with pre-stress the joint and make it more likely to break. Also, it's just much easier to solder to the pad horizontally for me.
@@merseyviking strength isn't a problem, but using the through holes will give a way cleaner connection with less solder
This was why i looked at the comments. Was confused why he wasnt using the holes. Ya know like every piece of electronics ive ever seen?
Love it. These vids are awesome.
Great content as always. Quick question what is the cable sleeve diameter?
So what battery do you use on this? Thanks for making these videos
I would like to know too
is this build better than sector 5 v3 or nazgul 5? Almost same price, whats the benefits of this custom build. Peace✌️
It's far more expensive
Using blue tac would make your life so much easier. You can hold into place anything while soldering. It's super cheap and easy to use.
Hi Drone Mesh, thanks for the video. Hey, where's the link to that hex driver with the quick swappable bits? The link you have in the description all point to hex driver sets with 4 full drivers. I like the one you are using in your video with the easily swappable bits. Thanks for the help.
Capacitor fitment is quite unfortunate. Legs of capacitor should be in thermo isolation. Cut out in frame and not isolated capacitor legs makes it perfect spot to be shortened by wet grass. Ideally + / - ESC pads should be painted with fluid isolation as they are prone to be shortened in same spot where the cut out is.
Instead or soldering right to left or left to right, wouldn't it be better to advise beginners to work on the soldering pads from the outside and not from the inside on the fc?
That way there is less chance of dropping a solder blob on the components from the tip of the iron. I have had shorts because of this. Luckily my shortsaver gave me a heads up and I didn't directly plug in a LiPo.
Also, changing the tip to a flatter and larger one will save a lot of effort when soldering the Xt60 and the motor wires! Also a lot less contact time between the soldering iron and the solder pads. I almost lifted a pad because of contact for too long with a small tip!
@Drone Mesh I think I am dumb, I am new to this and really want to build one. Does the flight controller have a built-in receiver??! I have a Spektrum DX6E and for the longest time, I thought I needed a separate receiver for it, like how RC planes do it. So if it does, would I just need an FC that can run the DSM2 or DSMX? Let me know! thanks!
Yes I've been looking for a new build ....just hard to get hardware in uk 😭
You missed the most important thing: how much will it cost ?
Pretty effing sick what you get for a “budget” build these days.
Fax I swear this is like $400
@@maxortega8073 budget is more like $40 or less for me. You can get a decent one on ebay for $40
@@steve00alt70
Link of the$40 drone pls.
Thank you. Very nice job explaining the process.
Do the stock screw that come with this stack fit fine? is the power distribution board built into the stack? and what receiver did you use? and do they sell extra VTX wire?
for the price of that fc, you can almost build an entire quad
What quad would you build? Just getting in to the game and would love to know.
you cannot build a 5" racing quad for $85....
@@sayhello2pedro you can start with Mamba F405 Mk2 which is almost two times cheaper and you'll hardly notice any difference.
@@user-uu7og7sn7m thank you, I’ll look it up
Hey, Drone Mesh. I hope you can noise test the Hifionrc 45a BLHeli_32 4in1 ESC. I just bought it recently and it seems to work really well, but I would like to know how it stacks up against the $35 Mamba ESC. Thanks for all the great content!
I am IPC Certified and work for a major airline repairing avionic components Tips for soldering:
#1 Tin your iron when your are done, this means add a little solder to the tip before you turn the iron off, this helps prevent oxidation on the tip and which makes heat transfer to the board a lot better.
#2 when you are soldering in the wires try and make a loop and put them in the holes then add enough solder so that there is a small fillet from the lead of any joint to the pad the solder is sticking to, the shape should look similar to a cone but it is curved inward doing so will make the joints last longer and make it so you never have to solder anything back on.
#3 Try and find 63/37 lead/tin solder, it heats well and cools better and faster which will keep your joints in place longer.
#4 look for any stray solder beads and also look for cracked or cold solder joints. A simple google search can show you an example of such.
#5 be careful with how much heat you are using, if you use too much heat you can delaminate the layers of the boards and that can destroy the boats. A good temperature is 600-700F favoring the lower number because it will make your soldering iron last longer.
If you need any other advice or need help just DM me
Geez, use some flux on those solder points, man! :) Especially in a high vibration environment, it will decrease the risk of having a bad or cold solder joint
How much money is the total for this budget build?
200 for the budget and 270 for the other version
NOT have "budget" build. wery expensive near 400$ same can build less than 100$ select parts smart cheap
Nice love it, waiting for next video
Basics of how you do that very helpeful. Thx for vid. Now Its more easy to craft own quad.
It is just not a budget built at all.. Lets be honest :D
haha, if you think this is expensive...
IT GETS A LOT WORSE
You neeeeed training desperately in soldering technique
you should see my work I just did. one word to describe it; atrocious.
Do you have a video showing how to set it up on beta flight? Thanks for your videos. Very instructional.
Your show is relaxing!!! Also you make this look easy!!! Wish I knew what you were doing. I kinda followed it.
Congrats 🎊 you won a DRONE PRIZE. I hope you like the prize and thanks so much for commenting. Quickly inbox above for it Good luck👍...
Very nice guide, I am very tempted to try hands on to build one but I don't have confidence in my soldering even with assist. My hands are not as stable as in the past. It will be nice if the board and parts come as crimp pin connectors making installation and swapping parts even easier.
CONGRATS YOU WERE RANDOMLY SELECTED FOR THE DRONE GIVEAWAY QUICKLY INBOX ABOVE👆TO CLAIM.
Excellent beginner tutorial!
Retired now so decided to learn about Drones. Loved your video. Very informative.
(I would have placed a small strip of Sellotape on you diagram paper.) - :)
Most certifying video ever ,
Perfect explaination I have really learned something new from here today 100% thanks you so much.
Sam,
One thing I want to ask,
Will running the vedio transmitter with different power source perform better?
Will part 2 be coming? and which props do you use?
Thank you
Sam one thing that would be good is to show how to bind the quad to a transmitter and how to bind camera to video receivers as that is something that my students ask. Is the quad still up to huy?
Great walk through. Love the comments "Hot as hell" haha! Good stuff sir.
Looking at this one.. be my first build, when's the set up video out ?
I like a 2 irons setup - one with a flat tip - one point. Wide is just to heat the wire and tab just enough to prime them with soldier. Then do the fine work and clean up with the point. That keeps me from, over heating the board. It also heats everything evenly faster, with less hot spots.
Also, good soldier and flux matters. ESP. when you start out.
Cool! Waiting for next video :)
Budujemy?
@@ukaszk6109 kiedyś tak, ale jeszcze muszę poczekać ;(
great video, next part please :)
thanks great build :)
great vid! i've been watching a lot of them and studying before i pull the trigger on my first build. Question, the frame I want has listed as a frame that can hold a 30.5 x 30.5 stack. the stack i found I want is described as a 30 x 30 stack. Is the .5 difference an issue or is that close enough?
great video thank you! your solder jobs will be way easier and better if you use flux!
Are the capacitor soldering points in contact with the xt60 points? I'm new to soldering, would this ruin the connections of both devices if they did contact?
Hi mate awesome video & directions...I'm looking at getting my 1st race/fast drone..only* wanna spend roughly £200-ish on it.. hopefully with a remote.
1st would you advise me getting a kit & building one..as I wanna know wtf all the 'jargon' means & the parts do.
2nd which drone could I get -that will hopefully get me hooked -needrspeed-🤩
Thanks for the video pal.
@Drone Mesh you should make a diy mavic 2 pro style build for video editors think thatd be dope
Hi one question: I've seen a lot of videos about drone builds, but neither of them go into details about the controller. I am new to this RC stuff, what kind of remote do you need? How many channels are usefull?
Good job when are you going to do the Original Gangster beast (frog)
still waiting it's been over a year .
where did U get the square thing that holds the stack and silicone grommets ? is it a part of packaging for F405 ?
what is that hex driver set you have in the video called?
the ones you linked in the description are different ones
Do you fly this with 6s? would 4s be enough to? wich props? i have some 5040 gemfan would they work?
my quad from 2019 just went up in flames. I want to replace the elctronics. what is the best 4 in 1 ESCs and FC for 6s that you recomend?
Regarding the soldering. When you were prepping the copper pads on the board I noticed there was always a very think layer of solder on the board between the pads. How come that doesnt cause bridging if that thin layer is touching both pads?
Very nice drone racing bro 😍 I like it
3:55 never too much soldering flux. Feel free to add (a lot), soldering flux. It helps to do the job perfectly (clean with isopropyl alcohol afterwards)
Is this applicable to a regular quad copter? I just want to build one that will eventually handle a go pro or larger one with a bigger payload for photography/building inspections. Seems like it would work just wanted to ask and make sure
What's the best controller that works across multiple platforms? That's the last bit of info I need.