Nice build for a first one. Very neat and clean. You'll find that a majority of us couldn't care less about dirt and grass getting in the electronics. I've come home and you'd think the quad took a bath in dirt 🤣😂🤣. As long as it doesn't get too wet. Even the motors get covered. Just spin them a little and keep it moving. All that TPU covering things up looks nice but just adds unnecessary weight. If you have skids, no need for pads. Any weight savings you can make improves performance. Some guys suggest not allowing anything to touch the flight controller like wires crossing the top. The vibration can mess with the gyro. Best to run wires underneath above the ESC. The style vtx antenna on the SMA is different. Can't say I've seen that type used before. Most go with a stubby or lollipop. Something a little less prone to getting thrashed in a crash. There could be a risk of it getting snapped off. That would make for a bad day. My first flight lasted about 5 secs. Unlike you, I made the mistake of not knowing about fpv sims to practice. I thought my R/C plane experience would be enough. I was wrong 😂🤣😂🤣. Multirotors fly totally differently.
Hi there! Thank you for the comment... I find the covers actually handy since I don't want the internal parts all covered in mud, scrap cleaning all that! 😂😂 The drone is extremely jumpy and powerful already for me, that little bit of added tpu weight is not felt much, in fact it helps protect it rather than be an inconvenience (in my case anyway). However, I will consider removing unnecessary weight such as the LEDs (since I don't want to fly in the dark). Conformal coating the boards will probably be what it takes before I do consider removing the covers. About the antenna, I replaced it today with a Foxeer Lollipop antenna, works great improving the video signal 👍 Thanks for your other tips mentioned above, I'll consider them. Be careful out there with your drone too! Sim practice is always beneficial before every real flight even if you're a rather advanced pilot. Especially if you haven't flown in a while 👍
@@MaxImagination who needs practice lol no need to worry about that too much also conformal coating is only necessary if you are intending to get it wet also leds are not what you need for night flying you need a special analog camera for that such as the foxeer toothless starlight, also the vtx is mounted upside down in a way that can cause a short just be warned of that
That is an awesome beginner setup, definitely better than mine. I do believe that you're gonna want to remove some weight once you get better, but the added protection seems like a good idea to get started. I love CNHL batteries btw.
Many thanks! Will consider dropping the LEDs and maybe the side covers in the near future as I get to fly more. CNHLs are dominating the market, sure are great choice of batteries. Cheers 👍
Lots of great info. And the kind of "common" sense that comes with making thing properly. Like twisted pairs, keeping things neat, and so on. I'm a retired computer engineer and small plane pilot planning my first build, and this vid is in the keepers pile.
I wouldn't put rubber grommets on the frame. Instead, use press nuts regular nuts so that the stack screws don't wobble around. It will make tuning your quad a lot easier. I can't believe GEPRC wants the stack to wobble around like that, but they do.
I think it also comes down to preference. Personally, I think it's safer using this amount of grommets as it protects the flight controller and ESC stack from getting destroyed upon impact or shock. This of course only lasts if the stack is tightened down really well. Thanks for your tip, though!
Well done, Max! For better range, I recommend a good rhcp antenna on the quad (like the foxeer lollipop, TrueRC singularity, Lumenier Axii2,..) and a pair of goggles with a module bay for an ImmersionRC Rapidfire will give you the best range
just a suggestion, i saw in the bag that came with your rgb lights was some included race wire, i would solder the motors to those then solder from the racewire to the esc, if its inline between motor and esc and sits on top of your arms it will prevent prop strikes from ripping up your motor wires. if it wasnt racewire that was included i'd definitley get some you can get it on racedayquads for like $1.50
Well dome!! Not a bad setup for your first build. I litterly used almost everything you did for my first build about a month ago, other than a different frame. Welcome to the FPV world!
FANTASTIC work, Max! Beautiful build!!! 😃 You did everything right! Even training on a simulator! Well done and fantastic flying!!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome build max, one of the most awaited projects and you nailed it with awesome looks as well as extraordinary build quality and learning a lot from your projects and you are helping me a lot to get motivated.... Have a great weekend buddy and looking forward for more fvp drone projects😊😊🤜🤛
You have circular polarized antennas on the goggles and linear antenna on the drone. That’s why you don’t have a good video feed. Good quality circular polarized antennas are a must if you want good range no matter the drone orientation in space.
Finally. Whta is ths fligh simulator did you used?. Que divino trabajo hiciste. Te pregunto esto por que necesito para mi propio trabajo sacar fotografías espectrales. Después te comparto parte de mi trabajo. (español)
Hola, Jorge. Gracias por su commentario! Usé un simulador de vuelo gratuito llamado FPV Skydive (consulte el enlace de la página de descarga en la descripción del video).
Ha! I was about to ask about RX sitting on top of the gyro, but decided to keep watching before posting. And seconds later you added a dedicated RX 3d printed pocket. Good job! I like the build - very clean :)
Yep! After realizing it wouldn't be so smart, I included an STL file of that RX mount along with other parts and sent those to a friend to help me get printed. Cheers!
Very clean build, however I don't think twisting the wires would do much in the way of reducing noise. You could shield the wires with some copper foil and solder a wire from that to a ground pad for actual rf shielding. You can also heatshrink it. It's the exact same thing that happens in USB cables.
Hi and thanks. Good tip, I heard from another fpv pilot that it is best to use coax cable or rf shielded cable on the video signal wire, like you mentioned. Cheers.
Loved the video! Very informative for beginners and fun for everyone else! The only thing i disliked is how you tightened the nuts on the motor. You only need it tight enough that the prop won't budge. The nylon insert will do the part of keeping it from vibrating off. Normally, you wouldn't need a locking wrench to hold the bell when tightening it
That's a really nice project! I'd add some features to it. For example, using machine learning, I'd training it to lock height if I choose to. E.g: If I let it goes up to 10 meters height, if I release the throttle, it would kept still at the same height. That'd be sick!
Yes, I had to find the correct communication protocol (SPI RX) and mostly play around with the lettered/numbered Channel Mapping to get the transmitter giving the right commands.
Hey man! Awesome video I loved it. Just Wanted to know if I can build this whole set up but with the 03 unit instead of your camera system that you used .
Hey and thanks! Yes, you can. I suggest you look up tutorials on TH-cam - how to install the DJI camera unit with the connections, configuration in Betaflight, and so on.
Im afraid the vtx will overheat of you obstruct airlow with these side covers. Its super easy to overheat them (talking from experience) especially when at high output power
The side covers don't fully touch up against the VTX, plus, there's plenty of airflow underneath and from the back of the frame for the unit to breathe via its front and back holes (for LED). This wouldn't be my concern.
Hi there. It's for stabilizing power at the flight controller board during high busts in current (lots of instantaneous power is pulled by the motors at times). It keeps things running consistently on the boards.
This is interesting, I have never seen the wires swing over the ESC board before. Since this is your first build, why did you chose to do it this way? Is there any downside?
From what I remember back when I made the drone, I did this as it was a shorter route for the wires to take. It doesn't seem to cause interference at least. I don't see an issue.
BetaFlight can reverse them if they are spinning the wrong way. Some of us prefer to have props spin outward. That way if you fly through a tree, in theory, the prop pushes the leaves and branches away instead of grabbing them and pulling them in increasing the chance of getting tangled if you fly "props in".
Sheesh men I'm your big fan I actually made a drone too but not enough fast and bad thing about it I didn't upload it💀 Keep up dude I will support your vids
I also wanted to comment on the soldering iron. The one you showed, the TS80P is a great iron, a cousin or friend of the famous TS100 iron. I have a Sequre Si012 iron (Google it) and I think it is one of the better ones as I believe that it is a bit higher in wattage and that matters. I have worked in aerospace and there they take soldering very seriously. We use very good irons mainly from JBC but one day I brought in my Si012 to check out. I gave it to one of the best techs there who has been soldering for over 25 years and they said that it was great, no problems or issues, heats ridiculously fast, recovers fast, the tips are good quality, just all around a great iron. So seriously a $26 iron is as good as a expensive iron used in aerospace - yes!...ish Not in any and all cases though but for our hobby these irons should work perfectly. So the one mentioned in this video is very good, the one I mention i think is slightly better. Also the TS80P tips are expensive, like 3-4 times more expensive than the ones for the TS100 or my iron (uses the exact same tips). None the less if you take care of the tips (keep them clean, make sure they always have a coating of solder, etc...) they can last a long time. I would pick a different solder for sure. There are science reasons to use a different solder but for sure you want to be using a 63/37 rosin core solder wire like this one from Kester: www.amazon.com/dp/B00AVLM4SO?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_13&=&crid=NTDWHLZKAFCP&=&sprefix=kester+solder For sure one of the best solders you can get. Does it matter - yes. A lot - could be but usually not that much but it is much easier to make a good solder joint with the Kester.
I would *highly* recommend not having the props anywhere near the motors when checking motor direction.. you can tap the motor housing with your finger to get a sense of the direction, which is much safer imo
Cheers! I'd highly recommend other beginners out there to use a simulator one month prior before buying parts to build your own quad, this will level up your flying skills fast.
Mine are exactly 5 inches in diameter and I don't have an issue with them touching the frame or anything. Which frame do you have? If this is your issue, I suggest downgrading to 4.5 inch or 4.75 inch props if possible.
@@MaxImagination A 5 inch 220mm X frame i believe im saying it fight? Lol. 👍 Okay yeah I figured 4.5s would fit. Do you think if i cut down the tip a little bit the prop will still work?
Running wires over the top of the flight controller is usually not recommended because it can interfere with the gyro. Its probably ok but if issues with the gyro show up, try moving the wires under the FC. the side plates block dirt but it also blocks air. You get no air flow with the sideplates, if youre having trouble with range, your vtx could be overheating and lowering the power. Cool build!
Great vid. Can someone tell me what i need to build a race drone without the camera as want it for line of sight flying and stunts only. I want it to run alteast 4s and be a 5 inch quad. Thanks guys
Thanks. I suggest you check out other videos showing how to make a 4-5S quad. It's up to you whether or not you use an FPV camera on your drone, but it will 99% of the time be easier to control it with goggles on. FPV quads are super awkward to control without FPV.
Hi there. Before you can connect the Tx12 to the receiver, you need to follow the steps in this video to first configure the transmitter- th-cam.com/video/8KaJOT190V0/w-d-xo.html Then in your transmitter, you will find an option to bind with the receiver. The first time you do binding, plug and unplug the drone's power connector 3 times and then keep it plugged in for a rapid blinking green light. That indicates your drone is ready for binding. From there, proceed with binding in your transmitter UI.
@@MaxImagination Thanks for the response. I have to do the battery unplug/plug in method. For some reason Expresslrs software keeps having issues connecting through wifi and wont build or flash. spent hours looking at videos. Did follow your drone build list though. I got all the same parts as I liked the build.
hey i was wondering if i buy a iflight Evoque with 03 air unit to use it with my dji controller 2 can i get it with the tbs receiver just for when i get a tbs module at a later date? like will it still be able to bind to my controller 2 when i get it and its not a bnf its tbs as easy as i would with the controller 2? thank you :)
Hi there. Please excuse my late reply. I am not familiar with any of the equipment you mentioned. Can't help but suggest you to ask forums like Reddit or see online if someone has already done what you're trying to do. Cheers.
Going through this build now - what size bolts/nuts did you use to secure the VTX to the frame? The frame kit didn't come with any that fit the hole size.
Hi Max, thanks for sharing this video. I have a question, I noticed that you've worked with Arduino and I was wondering if you happen to know if I can build my own FPV drone with custom firmware (C or MicroPython). I'd like to build an FPV drone with GPS, long range data transfer, long lasting fly time, and the most important take advantage of AI, like OpenCV, to make it smart enough to make its own decisions. Do you have any idea? I know I can build a drone with Raspi Zero 2 W or Pico, install my own firmware, the big downside is how to program the ESC and other FPV parts. Thanks for your help
Nice build for a first one. Very neat and clean. You'll find that a majority of us couldn't care less about dirt and grass getting in the electronics. I've come home and you'd think the quad took a bath in dirt 🤣😂🤣. As long as it doesn't get too wet. Even the motors get covered. Just spin them a little and keep it moving. All that TPU covering things up looks nice but just adds unnecessary weight. If you have skids, no need for pads. Any weight savings you can make improves performance. Some guys suggest not allowing anything to touch the flight controller like wires crossing the top. The vibration can mess with the gyro. Best to run wires underneath above the ESC. The style vtx antenna on the SMA is different. Can't say I've seen that type used before. Most go with a stubby or lollipop. Something a little less prone to getting thrashed in a crash. There could be a risk of it getting snapped off. That would make for a bad day. My first flight lasted about 5 secs. Unlike you, I made the mistake of not knowing about fpv sims to practice. I thought my R/C plane experience would be enough. I was wrong 😂🤣😂🤣. Multirotors fly totally differently.
Hi there! Thank you for the comment... I find the covers actually handy since I don't want the internal parts all covered in mud, scrap cleaning all that! 😂😂
The drone is extremely jumpy and powerful already for me, that little bit of added tpu weight is not felt much, in fact it helps protect it rather than be an inconvenience (in my case anyway). However, I will consider removing unnecessary weight such as the LEDs (since I don't want to fly in the dark).
Conformal coating the boards will probably be what it takes before I do consider removing the covers.
About the antenna, I replaced it today with a Foxeer Lollipop antenna, works great improving the video signal 👍
Thanks for your other tips mentioned above, I'll consider them.
Be careful out there with your drone too! Sim practice is always beneficial before every real flight even if you're a rather advanced pilot. Especially if you haven't flown in a while 👍
@@MaxImagination who needs practice lol no need to worry about that too much also conformal coating is only necessary if you are intending to get it wet also leds are not what you need for night flying you need a special analog camera for that such as the foxeer toothless starlight, also the vtx is mounted upside down in a way that can cause a short just be warned of that
The level of perfection is great, I was looking to build an FPV drone. thanks for the guide.
Glad I could help! Cheers.
That is an awesome beginner setup, definitely better than mine. I do believe that you're gonna want to remove some weight once you get better, but the added protection seems like a good idea to get started. I love CNHL batteries btw.
Many thanks! Will consider dropping the LEDs and maybe the side covers in the near future as I get to fly more. CNHLs are dominating the market, sure are great choice of batteries. Cheers 👍
Lots of great info. And the kind of "common" sense that comes with making thing properly. Like twisted pairs, keeping things neat, and so on. I'm a retired computer engineer and small plane pilot planning my first build, and this vid is in the keepers pile.
Thanks! Glad I could help a fellow enthusiast!
I wouldn't put rubber grommets on the frame. Instead, use press nuts regular nuts so that the stack screws don't wobble around. It will make tuning your quad a lot easier. I can't believe GEPRC wants the stack to wobble around like that, but they do.
I think it also comes down to preference. Personally, I think it's safer using this amount of grommets as it protects the flight controller and ESC stack from getting destroyed upon impact or shock. This of course only lasts if the stack is tightened down really well. Thanks for your tip, though!
Yeah I was very weirded out seeing gummies on the frame itself
This showcases entering into the hobby perfectly, with true enthusiasm. Gj bud
Thank you for your comment!
This is well built, and a nice video as well. There's a lot more to build and experience and I'll see you there.
Building bigger and more is the plan 💯 Thanks for your comment, Odysseus!
Well done, Max!
For better range, I recommend a good rhcp antenna on the quad (like the foxeer lollipop, TrueRC singularity, Lumenier Axii2,..) and a pair of goggles with a module bay for an ImmersionRC Rapidfire will give you the best range
Thank you, M J!
Just yesterday, I replaced the 2.4g antenna on the VTX for a foxeer lillipop. This has fixed the video feed issue 👍
Cheers.
just a suggestion, i saw in the bag that came with your rgb lights was some included race wire, i would solder the motors to those then solder from the racewire to the esc, if its inline between motor and esc and sits on top of your arms it will prevent prop strikes from ripping up your motor wires. if it wasnt racewire that was included i'd definitley get some you can get it on racedayquads for like $1.50
Good advice and get a smoke stopper. Hopefully he reads this.
Thanks for the tips, I will consider implementing those features!
No racewire, I have the same leds
Well dome!! Not a bad setup for your first build. I litterly used almost everything you did for my first build about a month ago, other than a different frame. Welcome to the FPV world!
Thanks so much! Happy flying 🚁
Dude, I am so excited to get into this with your tutorial. This is the drone video I have been waiting for someone to create/upload. Subscribed.
Glad you found it helpful! Thank you!
Another excellent, well-laid-out presentation. Great video Max 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Many thanks, James!
FANTASTIC work, Max! Beautiful build!!! 😃
You did everything right! Even training on a simulator! Well done and fantastic flying!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much, MC! Glad to see you back...
Have a great weekend! 😊
This is my favorite video so far
Awesome build max, one of the most awaited projects and you nailed it with awesome looks as well as extraordinary build quality and learning a lot from your projects and you are helping me a lot to get motivated....
Have a great weekend buddy and looking forward for more fvp drone projects😊😊🤜🤛
Thank you very much, Kumar! Always the kindest of encouraging words from you, buddy! Have a great weekend!
Best video of building drone!
Really appreciate that! Thanks
You have circular polarized antennas on the goggles and linear antenna on the drone. That’s why you don’t have a good video feed. Good quality circular polarized antennas are a must if you want good range no matter the drone orientation in space.
Thanks for pointing this out! Just the other day, I changed out the 2.4g antenna for a circular polarized Foxeer Lollipop antenna.
Fantastic project 😁👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
@@MaxImagination LED ???
Awesome video max all is a inspiration keep up the good work
Appreciate it! Thank you!
excelent work... Excelente trabajo.,
Gracias! 😀
Pasa buena semana!
Amazing project Max
Loved your work👏👏👏
Thank you, Sahil! Have a nice weekend ✌
12:04 😮 nice little sound you got over there
Every single video you drop is a 🧨 .Thanks max ❤❤..
I appreciate that! Comments like these really motivate me ❤
Good work Max . I enjoyed the evry part of built with the details you described ❤
Glad you enjoyed it! Many thanks!
Well done max. Very impressive 👍
Thank you, Tanya!
That was a great build video
Many thanks!
Unbelievable 😮 this is awesome
Thank you! Cheers!
This video is very informative, thanks for your hard working
Thanks for your comment!
Welcome to the FPV community
Finally. Whta is ths fligh simulator did you used?. Que divino trabajo hiciste. Te pregunto esto por que necesito para mi propio trabajo sacar fotografías espectrales. Después te comparto parte de mi trabajo. (español)
Hola, Jorge. Gracias por su commentario! Usé un simulador de vuelo gratuito llamado FPV Skydive (consulte el enlace de la página de descarga en la descripción del video).
Ha! I was about to ask about RX sitting on top of the gyro, but decided to keep watching before posting. And seconds later you added a dedicated RX 3d printed pocket. Good job! I like the build - very clean :)
Yep! After realizing it wouldn't be so smart, I included an STL file of that RX mount along with other parts and sent those to a friend to help me get printed. Cheers!
Great video! This is the exact build I've been planning on doing except I'll use an 03 air unit. Great video!!!
Thanks for your kind comment!
miniware makes a nice iron. sweet quad man.
They sure understand quality 👍
Thank you!
Finally a real drone 🙌🏽
Thanks Joshua! Enjoy your weekend 🙌🏽
@@MaxImagination no problem have a great weekend as well 😊
Love you bro from India 🇮🇳 ❤
I’ve just been buying prebuilt drones, I actually have a Mark 4 also. I’m planning to learn soldering and then I want to build my own 👍
Sweet! Best of luck with your future drone builds!
@@MaxImagination thanks, I just flew my AOS with crossfire for the first time. The TBS Tango remote feels allot better than the DJI remote.
It's laid out in an excellent way.. Hope you keep making videos like this
That's the plan! Thanks for your positive feedback!
@@MaxImagination ❤
Very clean build, however I don't think twisting the wires would do much in the way of reducing noise. You could shield the wires with some copper foil and solder a wire from that to a ground pad for actual rf shielding. You can also heatshrink it. It's the exact same thing that happens in USB cables.
Hi and thanks. Good tip, I heard from another fpv pilot that it is best to use coax cable or rf shielded cable on the video signal wire, like you mentioned. Cheers.
Loved the video! Very informative for beginners and fun for everyone else! The only thing i disliked is how you tightened the nuts on the motor. You only need it tight enough that the prop won't budge. The nylon insert will do the part of keeping it from vibrating off. Normally, you wouldn't need a locking wrench to hold the bell when tightening it
Thanks for your tip and compliments! I will consider that for when I use my drone next time 👍
Awesome video and nice place 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Your work is incredible! Awesome drone build🙌🔥
Glad you like it! Many thanks, Kristoffer! 🙌
Very clean build! Well done.
I appreciate that! Cheers.
I have the exact same setup with exact the components you're using I'm currently having issues with pid tuning and vtx noise
Very clean build
Thanks, SL Yasas!
Great Video. Thanks
Thank, Neil! You may also like watching how I devepoled my own security camera - th-cam.com/video/Ul0h5Maeoeg/w-d-xo.html
Cheers.
10:42 the experience of every drone pilot in the history of drone piloting
That's a really nice project! I'd add some features to it. For example, using machine learning, I'd training it to lock height if I choose to. E.g: If I let it goes up to 10 meters height, if I release the throttle, it would kept still at the same height. That'd be sick!
Thanks for your comment! As long as the machine learning software can be trusted, might work!
Don’t need machine learning, just buy a DJI.
did you have to do any additional ELRS configuring behind camera to the receiver to get it to bind to the controller?
Yes, I had to find the correct communication protocol (SPI RX) and mostly play around with the lettered/numbered Channel Mapping to get the transmitter giving the right commands.
Great presentation
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
@@MaxImagination Where is L E D ??
Hello Max i just wandering if you could make a tutorial of rc car but with a suspension
Hello there. I will consider it for a future video. Thanks.
Good job bro well done 👍
Thanks ✌️ Subscribe for more!
Great video max . If you shield all the cables the video breakage will stop and you will get a longer range .
Thanks for the tip! This is very helpful...
Hey man! Awesome video I loved it. Just Wanted to know if I can build this whole set up but with the 03 unit instead of your camera system that you used .
Hey and thanks! Yes, you can. I suggest you look up tutorials on TH-cam - how to install the DJI camera unit with the connections, configuration in Betaflight, and so on.
Tell me the name of multi screwdriver you used
The screwdriver I used came from this kit: amzn.to/3J887am
Temu
Im afraid the vtx will overheat of you obstruct airlow with these side covers. Its super easy to overheat them (talking from experience) especially when at high output power
Also, when the vtx heats up it wil drop its power to protect its self. So fpv feed can suddenly disappear
Yeah we don't care if dirt gets in there. Sometimes mine looks like it took a bath in mud 🤣😂🤣😂
The side covers don't fully touch up against the VTX, plus, there's plenty of airflow underneath and from the back of the frame for the unit to breathe via its front and back holes (for LED). This wouldn't be my concern.
Nice overview video, God bless.
Thank you!
My dream build is to have a bunch of extra parts and a few extra quads
The more, the merrier! 💪
Have you got an STL file for the 3D printing of the Gopro case? I haven't found it in your links.
Yes, I have updated the description just now with all of the drone's 3D printed parts' design files for you to download. Cheers.
@@MaxImagination Subbed.
Hi sir,
what is the Size of the flight controller you use?
About 50x50mm
Your Videos helped me build this so easily ! thanks ,i just finished the beta flight tests!
Nice work! Glad to hear. Cheers!
That's awesome 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
3:42 hey could you please tell why are your soldering this capacitor. Is it really necessary, i havent seen it in any other videos
Hi there. It's for stabilizing power at the flight controller board during high busts in current (lots of instantaneous power is pulled by the motors at times). It keeps things running consistently on the boards.
I want to be friends with this guy. Super dope video my man.
Thanks for watching!
enjoyed the process
This is interesting, I have never seen the wires swing over the ESC board before. Since this is your first build, why did you chose to do it this way? Is there any downside?
From what I remember back when I made the drone, I did this as it was a shorter route for the wires to take. It doesn't seem to cause interference at least. I don't see an issue.
Just tell., If the motor goes in wrong direction What is the correct solution?
BetaFlight can reverse them if they are spinning the wrong way. Some of us prefer to have props spin outward. That way if you fly through a tree, in theory, the prop pushes the leaves and branches away instead of grabbing them and pulling them in increasing the chance of getting tangled if you fly "props in".
Thanks for the tip, Amen_ Ra!
I'm going to build this drone little by little
Awesome. Go for it!
Sheesh men I'm your big fan
I actually made a drone too but not enough fast and bad thing about it I didn't upload it💀
Keep up dude I will support your vids
Many thanks! Consider taking a clip of your drone, I like to see what others make... Documenting what you do is very beneficial. No worries... Cheers!
good stuff.
Thanks for watching!
OMG Max, This is AMAZING!❤ So I was interested to give you an idea to make. So this is what, Can you make a pair of Apple Airpods.
Hi there. Thank you for watching! I'll keep the idea in mind, thanks 👍
Welcome to FPV 😊
Thanks! :)
Nice video and build 🔥🔥😎. The drone definitely needs a tune. The video shakes a lot. But nice drone!
Thanks, Hexagun! I am new to all of this but I will definitely work on some more tuning 👍
Im new how do U know the right place to solder the wires on like for each wire on to individual soldering plates
You can know the connections by following the diagram linked below :)
I also wanted to comment on the soldering iron. The one you showed, the TS80P is a great iron, a cousin or friend of the famous TS100 iron. I have a Sequre Si012 iron (Google it) and I think it is one of the better ones as I believe that it is a bit higher in wattage and that matters.
I have worked in aerospace and there they take soldering very seriously. We use very good irons mainly from JBC but one day I brought in my Si012 to check out. I gave it to one of the best techs there who has been soldering for over 25 years and they said that it was great, no problems or issues, heats ridiculously fast, recovers fast, the tips are good quality, just all around a great iron.
So seriously a $26 iron is as good as a expensive iron used in aerospace - yes!...ish Not in any and all cases though but for our hobby these irons should work perfectly. So the one mentioned in this video is very good, the one I mention i think is slightly better.
Also the TS80P tips are expensive, like 3-4 times more expensive than the ones for the TS100 or my iron (uses the exact same tips). None the less if you take care of the tips (keep them clean, make sure they always have a coating of solder, etc...) they can last a long time.
I would pick a different solder for sure. There are science reasons to use a different solder but for sure you want to be using a 63/37 rosin core solder wire like this one from Kester: www.amazon.com/dp/B00AVLM4SO?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_13&=&crid=NTDWHLZKAFCP&=&sprefix=kester+solder For sure one of the best solders you can get. Does it matter - yes. A lot - could be but usually not that much but it is much easier to make a good solder joint with the Kester.
I would *highly* recommend not having the props anywhere near the motors when checking motor direction.. you can tap the motor housing with your finger to get a sense of the direction, which is much safer imo
Good point. That loose prop can grip and get flown up, hitting someone's face. Cheers.
I just bought the same parts for a 6 inch drone
Great! Did you purchase a bigger frame? The Mark 4 frame doesn't work with props larger than 5".
bro build its first quad and is alread a damn pro. good job :)
Cheers! I'd highly recommend other beginners out there to use a simulator one month prior before buying parts to build your own quad, this will level up your flying skills fast.
perfect video man...straight to the point and very detailed....made me consider building my own...the beta flight stuff is sketchy for me...
Thanks for watching! Glad it has helped you. About betaflight setup, I suggest you watch the tutorial videos I linked in the video description.
What size are your props? I have an 5 inch Arris x220 v2 with 5nch props but they touch the middle frame. Do you recommend 4.5 inch props or 4 inch?
Mine are exactly 5 inches in diameter and I don't have an issue with them touching the frame or anything. Which frame do you have? If this is your issue, I suggest downgrading to 4.5 inch or 4.75 inch props if possible.
@@MaxImagination A 5 inch 220mm X frame i believe im saying it fight? Lol. 👍 Okay yeah I figured 4.5s would fit. Do you think if i cut down the tip a little bit the prop will still work?
If you do have to shorten the ends, you can. However, make sure you don't take too much off! Just little snippets at a time...
Cheers.
Very impressive
Thanks for watching!
hi loved the video but d you how what the range on this drone
Hi there. The range can be up to 1-2KM. Preferably flown in a 200M radius not to lose video signal.
Hello Sir, Your video! So good work
Many thanks!
@@MaxImagination Yes brother thanks
Do you know if this fligh controller could work with 920 kv motors? and propeller 10x4.....
Yes. It's the ESC you need to match to the motor power draw
Correct, make sure you're using the right ESC for the motor's you've chosen to avoid burning the speed controller units.
How do you change the wire antenna for the SMA? Any recommendations on any videos?
You change it by pulling off the current antenna you've got on with a pair of pliers and clipping on the SMA antenna you want.
Running wires over the top of the flight controller is usually not recommended because it can interfere with the gyro. Its probably ok but if issues with the gyro show up, try moving the wires under the FC. the side plates block dirt but it also blocks air. You get no air flow with the sideplates, if youre having trouble with range, your vtx could be overheating and lowering the power. Cool build!
Thank you for your suggestion! I haven't had issues with it, but certainly a good piece of advice to other newcomers in the FPV drone hobby. Cheers!
@@MaxImagination cheers my man, keep rippin
I didn't hear any discussion about a gimbal and yet your footage doesn't look incredibly shaky.
I'm a smooth flier 😉
could you make an airplane powered by dc motors that flies?
I am considering it for a future project!
We built almost the exact same drone, nice work!
Nice! Thank you!
I like your video.
Thanks!
Nice clean setup!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hey I can't seem to find where he bought the wires little help here please ?
Which wires? Wires are normally included with the part such as the wires connecting the motors to the ESC stack.
Nice build. Make the jump to digital you will be much happier. Buy once cry once.
Thanks. I am considering it as recently, I am not too happy with the analog video feed for client projects. Will try!
Great vid. Can someone tell me what i need to build a race drone without the camera as want it for line of sight flying and stunts only. I want it to run alteast 4s and be a 5 inch quad. Thanks guys
Thanks. I suggest you check out other videos showing how to make a 4-5S quad. It's up to you whether or not you use an FPV camera on your drone, but it will 99% of the time be easier to control it with goggles on. FPV quads are super awkward to control without FPV.
How did you get the Tx12 to connect to the Express LRS
module?
Hi there. Before you can connect the Tx12 to the receiver, you need to follow the steps in this video to first configure the transmitter- th-cam.com/video/8KaJOT190V0/w-d-xo.html
Then in your transmitter, you will find an option to bind with the receiver. The first time you do binding, plug and unplug the drone's power connector 3 times and then keep it plugged in for a rapid blinking green light. That indicates your drone is ready for binding. From there, proceed with binding in your transmitter UI.
@@MaxImagination Thanks for the response. I have to do the battery unplug/plug in method. For some reason Expresslrs software keeps having issues connecting through wifi and wont build or flash. spent hours looking at videos. Did follow your drone build list though. I got all the same parts as I liked the build.
hey i was wondering if i buy a iflight Evoque with 03 air unit to use it with my dji controller 2 can i get it with the tbs receiver just for when i get a tbs module at a later date? like will it still be able to bind to my controller 2 when i get it and its not a bnf its tbs as easy as i would with the controller 2? thank you :)
Hi there. Please excuse my late reply. I am not familiar with any of the equipment you mentioned. Can't help but suggest you to ask forums like Reddit or see online if someone has already done what you're trying to do. Cheers.
Hello!, can you making tutorial about making esp32cam with sensor pir and ultrasonic. please?
Hi there, maybe in a future project!
@@MaxImagination thanks, you did a great job out there🙌
Wow, you even share all the thing needs to build! Come on guys, make the subs reach at least 100k and he'll get the silver button!
I appreciate your kindness! All the best, cheers. 😀
Going through this build now - what size bolts/nuts did you use to secure the VTX to the frame? The frame kit didn't come with any that fit the hole size.
Hi there. I used a couple of M2 bolts with nuts to secure the VTX to the frame.
@@MaxImagination Excellent. Thanks for the reply and the video! Enjoying this build.
@@beloitdavisja Awesome to hear you're assembling your own FPV as well... Happy building! Cheers.
Hi Max, thanks for sharing this video. I have a question, I noticed that you've worked with Arduino and I was wondering if you happen to know if I can build my own FPV drone with custom firmware (C or MicroPython). I'd like to build an FPV drone with GPS, long range data transfer, long lasting fly time, and the most important take advantage of AI, like OpenCV, to make it smart enough to make its own decisions. Do you have any idea? I know I can build a drone with Raspi Zero 2 W or Pico, install my own firmware, the big downside is how to program the ESC and other FPV parts. Thanks for your help
Hi, Ralph. I've never made such drone before, sounds very interesting however complex! I don't think I can help, though.
@@MaxImagination No worries. I appreciate your input. I'll keep researching and, maybe, I add a video about my findings and progress.
Can i use a 4s battery at this drone?
Yes, you can as the flight controller can take 4S (I believe), but check thoroughly on the parts specs yourself.