Wow - No clue. >> Ray is correct - this is not a sensor (of any kind). This is actually the solenoid (Germans say "magnet") valve that controls hydraulic oil to the camshaft adjustment actuator inside the head. There are four of them in Mercedes DOHC 'V' engines. one for each of the four camshafts (2- intake, 2- exhaust). And yes there are cam position sensors as well - but the 'tested' part is not a sensor. BTW - Test procedure... similar to testing spark plug gap with a tire pressure gauge ?
Someone once said "do not take youtube videos as the gospel truth. Now I know why. This is not a sensor this is a solenoid that activates the camshaft adjuster to regulate oil flow in the cam adjuster assembly. The camshaft position sensor is something completely different. I am not being mean to you, just correcting you. You put in a lot of effort with your videos and they are very informative, but this is a lemon.
Yes, there are a few descrepancies in terminology that will be confusing for people if they try to look for the camshaft position sensor. The part he is testing is the "VVT magnetic actuator" or "camshaft adjuster magnet" (and I've seen some people in forums call this the "sensor magnet", which it is not), to be clear, there are Hall-Effect sensors nearby these actuators that tell the computer the camshafts position, but apparently they aren't usually the problem. Also, this part is not a magnet, it is a solenoid valve, in other words, an electromagnet, which only creates a magnetic field when 12 volts is put on those two terminals. Finally, he has the Volt/Ohm Meter in series in the AC range! This is a high impedance setting where almost no current can flow, and what he is reading is a change in the magnetic coil impedance when he waves another piece of metal around the magnetic field; the actual useful setting on the VOM would be DC current, to see how many Amps the solenoid draws when energized, but I think even knowing that, is nominally useful. I think when these parts fail, they will either draw NO current (indicating the electromagnet wire or terminal is broken/bad), or draw current, but the oil valve is clogged and the valve inside is not moving anymore, so even if current is flowing through the terminals, the valve doesn't change position anymore. On another car, I solved this problem by removing the actuator and using a solvent to clean the oil passages out until the valve moved when I applied 12 volts to the terminals. But it is my understanding that this component can also leak oil, which may cause current to short across the electromagnet wires, so even if the component is drawing current, it may be that not enough current is flowing through the electromagnet to operate the valve, since some current may be bypassing the the electromagnet by shorting through the oil; so if you apply voltage, you should be able to feel or hear the solenoid actuate with a little THUD, and if you don't feel a THUD, you have either a clogged valve, broken wire internally, or shorted wire. Also, you can test the component causing the error, with another one which is not "throwing a code". The most important note about this is that MOST OF THESE TESTS CAN BE DONE WITHOUT REMOVING THE ACTUATOR FROM THE ENGINE ! This channel has given me good information in the past, but this video is nominally useful for this problem, but I love his plad jacket, it's super-sharp with the white shirt, I've got to get one like that! I hope this information helps somebody save a lot of time and effort.
🤔The next thing he should have done, which was actually the first thing, was connect the terminals from the battery directly to the actuator to see the plunger move in and out. This is what allows more oil to go in a different speeds
Could a bad one caused a pulse/surging on accelerating if really bad? Got this codes in the past with not noticeable driving issues as I’ve changed them pretty quickly. Now got a 1208 code after really bad surging at lite acceleration. So replaced bank 1 intake with old sensor I had and surging seems to have calmed down a lot, these sensors might have 200k Plus on them😞 as car has 395k now, oil changed 3-5k ow-40 always. Your opinion before replacing all 4. Thank you
I'm curious why you didn't read continuity when you read across the solenoid. That's an electromagnet coil that you're reading so if it reads open then the electromagnet doesn't work and the unit is defective. I checked on a brand new one, as well as a couple on my car, and they all show continuity across the connector pins. Confusing...
I can't figure out where that is?? I've been looking for the VVT SOLONOID and can't find it to clean it and see if my car will stay running afterwards.... help
If this magnetic adjuster is failing can it cause the car mercedez Benz c250 2012 l4 turbo when trying to start it takes more than 5 seconds to startup and I plugged in a scanner and tells me bank A or single sensor camshaft sensor Intermittent.
Hi sir, thank you for this video. May I ask as to the connector that connects to the magnet, so the plastic on my connector wire broke off so there's like 2 points which should connect to the 2 pins on that magnet, does it matter which point connects to which pin on the magnet?
Does CodeP062B A signal for bad camshaft adjuster magnet? It says internal control module fuel injector control performance. I spent money for new cam sensors and the code is still showing up. Please help
My 2011 ml350 developed p054b cold start camshaft overetarted bank 1. Do you think this fault has anything to do with this magnet or camshaft position sensors ?
I have the same mercedes i have a big problem. I pull the belt with my hand at the sametime im using a pry bar to take the belt off because i didnt kno you can use a ratchet. When i yanked on belt to get slack to take off belt it made a click noise with each yank. Checked pullys super charger for bad berrin or Howell noise. Put belt back on then started up and it is running hellish up n down missing reallbad at idol ? Evens out on rev up or driving. I dont know Mercedes at all. Its throwing code p2054 and p2055? Can u give me any advice on this problem. Was fine b4 i took belt off to check for noise pullys. Im so dumb for this. Its my lil girls car and only drove for 2 week with fresh licence. Thanks joe..
Hello Kieth, I have a 2011 ML 350 with 100, 000 miles. How long do the motor mounts tipically last? Thanks for all your great videos. I replaced the battery myself after watching your video.
Hello! I have a Mercedes e280 2006 petrol and diagnostics with p2090 component y49 / 7 (right camchaft exhaust solenoid) when the car is cold and ignites the engine, the sound is heard for a few seconds and the sound goes off. can you please give me your help.
Hi, great video but I don't think all magnet sensors are the same because I have a 2004 C230 and my sensor is different. If I connect a volt meter it shows 11.9 volts. If I do exactly what you did by putting the voltmeter between the battery and the sensor I also get a reading of 11.9 volts. When I wave a wrench or anyting metal it does not react. My sensor is not exactly the same as yours.
Great videos and thank you for recording this! I have tried replicating your testing and realized that there is continuity between the 2 pins in all of my 4 magnets. is this an indication that they are defective? I didnt even continue testing further after noticing the continuity on them.
I know your comment is old but I hope this helps somebody else reading it. Not defective unless 0 ohms (shorted) or Infiniti (broken wire). It should have a low resistance value because each pin is the end of one coil of wire.
What the actual hell? Man, you should not be making informative videos about stuff you don't understand, this is not even a sensor and it appeared to me that you were measuring current rather than AC voltage? Either way it was not correct, these are solenoid actuators and if you applied power to it you would of seen the plunger in the middle extend, it's not for measuring camshaft position.
This doesn't make any sense whatsoever. If you check continuity through the connector pins and there isn't continuity ur magnet adjuster is bad. it has to have continuity....
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
This isn't a hall effect sensor. This is a electromagnetic that has a plunger that comes out when energized. It is not a camshaft position sensor!
Wow - No clue. >> Ray is correct - this is not a sensor (of any kind). This is actually the solenoid (Germans say "magnet") valve that controls hydraulic oil to the camshaft adjustment actuator inside the head. There are four of them in Mercedes DOHC 'V' engines. one for each of the four camshafts (2- intake, 2- exhaust). And yes there are cam position sensors as well - but the 'tested' part is not a sensor. BTW - Test procedure... similar to testing spark plug gap with a tire pressure gauge ?
lol wrong info
P0016 ?
Someone once said "do not take youtube videos as the gospel truth. Now I know why. This is not a sensor this is a solenoid that activates the camshaft adjuster to regulate oil flow in the cam adjuster assembly. The camshaft position sensor is something completely different. I am not being mean to you, just correcting you. You put in a lot of effort with your videos and they are very informative, but this is a lemon.
Yes, there are a few descrepancies in terminology that will be confusing for people if they try to look for the camshaft position sensor. The part he is testing is the "VVT magnetic actuator" or "camshaft adjuster magnet" (and I've seen some people in forums call this the "sensor magnet", which it is not), to be clear, there are Hall-Effect sensors nearby these actuators that tell the computer the camshafts position, but apparently they aren't usually the problem.
Also, this part is not a magnet, it is a solenoid valve, in other words, an electromagnet, which only creates a magnetic field when 12 volts is put on those two terminals. Finally, he has the Volt/Ohm Meter in series in the AC range! This is a high impedance setting where almost no current can flow, and what he is reading is a change in the magnetic coil impedance when he waves another piece of metal around the magnetic field; the actual useful setting on the VOM would be DC current, to see how many Amps the solenoid draws when energized, but I think even knowing that, is nominally useful.
I think when these parts fail, they will either draw NO current (indicating the electromagnet wire or terminal is broken/bad), or draw current, but the oil valve is clogged and the valve inside is not moving anymore, so even if current is flowing through the terminals, the valve doesn't change position anymore. On another car, I solved this problem by removing the actuator and using a solvent to clean the oil passages out until the valve moved when I applied 12 volts to the terminals. But it is my understanding that this component can also leak oil, which may cause current to short across the electromagnet wires, so even if the component is drawing current, it may be that not enough current is flowing through the electromagnet to operate the valve, since some current may be bypassing the the electromagnet by shorting through the oil; so if you apply voltage, you should be able to feel or hear the solenoid actuate with a little THUD, and if you don't feel a THUD, you have either a clogged valve, broken wire internally, or shorted wire. Also, you can test the component causing the error, with another one which is not "throwing a code".
The most important note about this is that MOST OF THESE TESTS CAN BE DONE WITHOUT REMOVING THE ACTUATOR FROM THE ENGINE !
This channel has given me good information in the past, but this video is nominally useful for this problem, but I love his plad jacket, it's super-sharp with the white shirt, I've got to get one like that! I hope this information helps somebody save a lot of time and effort.
@@louisseaman8455does it cause p0016 by chance
🤔The next thing he should have done, which was actually the first thing, was connect the terminals from the battery directly to the actuator to see the plunger move in and out.
This is what allows more oil to go in a different speeds
I just realized he has a different camshaft magnet than I do.
Mine is for w203 I don't think mine has a plunger
Totally wrong its a plunger put 12 volts to it
Could a bad one caused a pulse/surging on accelerating if really bad? Got this codes in the past with not noticeable driving issues as I’ve changed them pretty quickly. Now got a 1208 code after really bad surging at lite acceleration. So replaced bank 1 intake with old sensor I had and surging seems to have calmed down a lot, these sensors might have 200k Plus on them😞 as car has 395k now, oil changed 3-5k ow-40 always. Your opinion before replacing all 4.
Thank you
Do you drain your oil before popping that off? Or is it sumped?
2007 c280 getting p0012 main code and p0022 pending code should i change all 4 thanks always awesome videos!
Great job
ACTUATOR, not sensor.
Hi very good video thanks
Can you do a video on how to change the transmission oil on a ML350 4 Matic please.
Senser is anther one, pease like a roller eraser, BTW good video.
三用電表檔位拍的不清楚
This problem is lagging response when you kickdown, I have solved it twice, I loven`t it
And pay many money on this problem
I'm curious why you didn't read continuity when you read across the solenoid. That's an electromagnet coil that you're reading so if it reads open then the electromagnet doesn't work and the unit is defective. I checked on a brand new one, as well as a couple on my car, and they all show continuity across the connector pins. Confusing...
i have a c180 2006 w203 oil is leaking at the camshaft sensors,,, does it make sense to change the magnets or only the o-rings?
Hello, always useful for your videos .. congratulations👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for the kind feed back
sir i have w140 300 i tested wire there's no power in idle and 1500rpm is that normal?
I can't figure out where that is?? I've been looking for the VVT SOLONOID and can't find it to clean it and see if my car will stay running afterwards.... help
Good videos
Does camshaft adjuster magnet leak oil into the wire harness ?
Is not supposed to do that
If this magnetic adjuster is failing can it cause the car mercedez Benz c250 2012 l4 turbo when trying to start it takes more than 5 seconds to startup and I plugged in a scanner and tells me bank A or single sensor camshaft sensor Intermittent.
Yes. Most definitely. Check the connection. Sometimes the tab breaks off and the connection gets loose.
Hi, if this magnet is faulty what effect does it have on the running of the engine? Great video by the way 👍🏻
Then you don't have adjustments to camshaft timing.
the computer reads these sensor to figure camshaft position to set variable timing with adjusters
I have c200 271 CGi with a broken camshaft gear bolt .Does it cause the engine to misfire
Camshaft change after how long
you ever came accross P001685 ?
Hi sir, thank you for this video. May I ask as to the connector that connects to the magnet, so the plastic on my connector wire broke off so there's like 2 points which should connect to the 2 pins on that magnet, does it matter which point connects to which pin on the magnet?
WOOW :O nice
Does CodeP062B A signal for bad camshaft adjuster magnet? It says internal control module fuel injector control performance. I spent money for new cam sensors and the code is still showing up. Please help
My 2011 ml350 developed p054b cold start camshaft overetarted bank 1. Do you think this fault has anything to do with this magnet or camshaft position sensors ?
Same thing happening to my car m272 engine
I have the same mercedes i have a big problem. I pull the belt with my hand at the sametime im using a pry bar to take the belt off because i didnt kno you can use a ratchet. When i yanked on belt to get slack to take off belt it made a click noise with each yank. Checked pullys super charger for bad berrin or Howell noise. Put belt back on then started up and it is running hellish up n down missing reallbad at idol ? Evens out on rev up or driving. I dont know Mercedes at all. Its throwing code p2054 and p2055? Can u give me any advice on this problem. Was fine b4 i took belt off to check for noise pullys. Im so dumb for this. Its my lil girls car and only drove for 2 week with fresh licence. Thanks joe..
Very informative video. Thank you.
Hello Kieth, I have a 2011 ML 350 with 100, 000 miles. How long do the motor mounts tipically last? Thanks for all your great videos. I replaced the battery myself after watching your video.
Hi John. They typically last 5 to 10 years but usually longer. Glad the videos are helping.
the mounts don't all go bad overnight. The one that gets PULLED OUT by the torque does the heavy work... I believe driver side.
Great video thank you
Senor thank you for a great information
What if the plastic housing is cracked would that make it not work ?
Yes. The ferrite core will probably cracked too. They can go intermittent with temp
@@SW-qr8qe thanks for replying,the whole motor ended up being shot
Nice suits!
Hello, followed the steps and the reading only moves by one digit. I assume the sensors are bad?
Hello! I have a Mercedes e280 2006 petrol and diagnostics with p2090 component y49 / 7 (right camchaft exhaust solenoid)
when the car is cold and ignites the engine, the sound is heard for a few seconds and the sound goes off.
can you please give me your help.
Quite informative
Irs dc current, not ac current.
You have to test these magnets with them open. (Plunger Activated, or pulled in). Otherwise continuity is there.
Hi I have a 2006 Mercedes r350 and a code came up it's p0021 can you help me thanks.
p0016 W 205 YOU THINK NEED CHANGE THIS PART
I mean I don't understand why I have continuity on my magnetic cam sensor, even the connector didn't even touch
Thanks. Now I can determine if my magnets are good. Hoping for that rather then the phasers on my C250 turbo
Hi, great video but I don't think all magnet sensors are the same because I have a 2004 C230 and my sensor is different. If I connect a volt meter it shows 11.9 volts. If I do exactly what you did by putting the voltmeter between the battery and the sensor I also get a reading of 11.9 volts. When I wave a wrench or anyting metal it does not react. My sensor is not exactly the same as yours.
Dis ding price chers
I see. The magnetic 🧲 adjuster send signal to the computer for the timing !
my like went to your clothes, sir!
I am sorry but he does not know what he is doing neither the function mechanics of the camshaft adjuster magnet
Lol. Thanks for your thoughts...
This réglages electrique oder arbre a came
Great videos and thank you for recording this! I have tried replicating your testing and realized that there is continuity between the 2 pins in all of my 4 magnets. is this an indication that they are defective? I didnt even continue testing further after noticing the continuity on them.
Hi, same trouble here, does magnets were actually in fault ?
I know your comment is old but I hope this helps somebody else reading it. Not defective unless 0 ohms (shorted) or Infiniti (broken wire). It should have a low resistance value because each pin is the end of one coil of wire.
What the actual hell? Man, you should not be making informative videos about stuff you don't understand, this is not even a sensor and it appeared to me that you were measuring current rather than AC voltage? Either way it was not correct, these are solenoid actuators and if you applied power to it you would of seen the plunger in the middle extend, it's not for measuring camshaft position.
This doesn't make any sense whatsoever. If you check continuity through the connector pins and there isn't continuity ur magnet adjuster is bad. it has to have continuity....
The magnet is a switch of sorts,continuity is a condition of a switch being open or closed,his process was correct.
Is this some kind of joke?
Re u on Facebook? Sir
OMG, this is just bad.
purposely designed for managed failure!
At least Benz are worth the efforts unlike VW that have similar high maintenance failures 😂
@@glasser2819 Current situation on my GTI smh
This contrôling