so cool .... love this type of person, who is sensible enough to understand, that the dealer won't tell you the truth , so he can sell you a new pump for 800 bucks ! Well done !
I just paid 1150 to replace my oil pump. I’m going to tear into the old one and if this fixes it I’m gonna take it to the boat house and raise some sand. Thanks for the video.
I have a '98 150 Optimax that has the same issue. Oil in the bottom of the engine housing that when you tilt engine up leaks onto the back transom of boat. Engine warning light will come on along with the erratic intermittent/sometimes continuous beeping. If you shut it off to reset it, the engine runs fine. Occasionally, same thing happens at full plane. I saw your post and thought hell, it can't hurt to check it out. My only issue is I can't access 2 of 4 Alan screws. Did you have to take multiple wiring and or other parts off to access all 4 Alan screws? Any suggestions are welcome.
I have a 150 efi and I have a fast beeping alarm that the people at Merc didn't have explanation for. They said it was the oil level sensor. It knew it wasn't. Was your alarm a fast beep that stayed continuous from key on?
I have a 2000 optimax 150 that is leaking from the same location...on the back side by the connector...can you just remove the bell housing with the 3 Allen stock bolts to replace the o-ring? And did you have to prime the oil pump after the repair? Thanks for posting this video!
Yea you will have to prime the pump before restarting. I used the method that puts it in break in mode. Go from neutral to drive 3 to 4 times with key to the on position until u hear prime sequence. Some say this is a bad way to do it but it has worked for me great all 3 times and has never caused a spark plug failure. The house comes off the the oring is behind the housing. Simple fix once you find the oring
Thanks for posting! Not sure if anyone is still looking at this but I have a Nissian Direct Injection which uses the same pump. Mine was leaking however it was caused from a crack in the Brass piston moves up and down in the upper portion of the Unit. I wonder how many of these are caused by that crack vs the oring?
Prolly tons and tons of these get replaced because of an oring. Owning my optimax has taught me alot about mercury. They are crooks 10000%. Tiny rubber diapghrams are 250$. It's a rip off the way they sell parts for these engines
@@NCshooter1213 I wound up ordering a new pump. Its from Japan (Tohatsu), but says made in the United States. Weird. I took off the cap and the brass piston on the new pump looks like someone installed it with a pair of vise grips.
Turn the key to start and cycle the shifter from neutral to forward 3 or 4 times and the engine will do a prime sequence and will be put into break in mode for a set number of hrs. Some ppl will say " you must pay a shop to prime it" I have always primed mine this way and it's been fine. No fouled plugs or any insanely high oil usage
Did you happen to notice if the brass sleeve covering the spool for the solenoid on the oil pump had a hairline crack in it? I have a Mariner Optimax 150 with the same problem, dribbles oil, brass sleeve cracked, o-ring pinched in two places, gonna replace the o-ring as you did, since the coil is sealed, it wont hurt it to get oil in it. I'll bet money, a brand new pump has the same problem with the o-ring. Can't see the o-ring where its pinched unless you remove the coil.
I have never been left stranded by mine so far. The only thing that has gave me steady issues is the tracker valve diaphragm. If your not familiar with those look them up. I started keeping one on my boat as a spare. But other than that my opti has been great. Lots of long long runs at high speeds not a problem. Cheap on oil too. And there not quite as complicated to work on as ppl say if u have a small amount of mechanical knowledge. I have done all my work myself so far and i have been all through mine upgrading parts slowly. Good luck to you and if u get tours and have any issues feel free to message me. I feel confident on this vintage opti
I am attempting to do the same thing on a 2013. I removed the allen bolts and really not sure what I should do next. How do I remove the cylinder piece inside? Do I just pull it out hard or pry it out? Just not wanting to do any damage. I assume this o ring is behind the cylider piece I am looking to remove. Any tips or advice would be apperciated.
The housing on the cylinder piece will come apart. The cylinder piece comes apart in 2 pieces. You should see the split in it about halfway down it. Once the bolts are removed from the top of the cylinder piece it will come apart in 2 pieces. Remember there is an oring in there so ot may be stuck together just be gentle and pop ot apart and you will see the oring i replaced
No. No alarms just leaking oil. I never let the oil tank get low. If your getting low oil alarms and you have oil in the reservoir then it's the sensor on the bottom on the oil tank. Easy to replace
@@acalendrillo The dealer has to prime the oil system using a computer plugged into the motor. Should cost between $50-100. There is a way to do it without a computer, but it will put the motor in "breakin" mode, which will double the oil rate for two hours (above 3000 rpm) and you will spend more in dfi oil and fouled spark plugs than having the dealer perform the oil prime with the computer.
Tommy Guiser yep oil pump prime is a must. I choose the shifter method which put my motor back in break-in more for 2 hours. Put throttle from neutral to forward gear 3 times to engage the break in oil prime. Mines been fine every since. And I DIDN'T foul ANY it's during break in
NCshooter1213 Is that somewhere in the book? How exactly do I do that? Do I shift back and forth with the motor running and how do I know it worked? Do I need to drain oil tank before taking oil pump housing off? Mines leaking on a 90hp optimax and Im about to replace spark plugs anyway so not worried about fouling. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for the video
mattmatt turn the key to Then on position but do not start motor. Go from neutral to forward and bacvk to neutral 3 times and u will hear the oil pump begin it's prime. Do it with a smooth and consistent speed to trigger the prime.
AWESOME!!!! I'm super glad you figured it out. Since buying this boat the optimax has been nothing but a headache. Needless to say I have learned alot doing my own work. It's worth it
so cool .... love this type of person, who is sensible enough to understand, that the dealer won't tell you the truth , so he can sell you a new pump for 800 bucks ! Well done !
Hi Partner, you are the best example of " do the best you can for what you have" .
Good on you mate! Just imagine the people they have been lying to and ripping off!
I just paid 1150 to replace my oil pump. I’m going to tear into the old one and if this fixes it I’m gonna take it to the boat house and raise some sand. Thanks for the video.
Good luck to you! I hate you had to spend soo much
Hello friend! Mine burns too much oil but i don't have a leak anywhere. How much oil does yours burn? I am 4 liters of oil in 100 liters of fuel.
I have a '98 150 Optimax that has the same issue. Oil in the bottom of the engine housing that when you tilt engine up leaks onto the back transom of boat. Engine warning light will come on along with the erratic intermittent/sometimes continuous beeping. If you shut it off to reset it, the engine runs fine. Occasionally, same thing happens at full plane. I saw your post and thought hell, it can't hurt to check it out. My only issue is I can't access 2 of 4 Alan screws. Did you have to take multiple wiring and or other parts off to access all 4 Alan screws? Any suggestions are welcome.
I have a 150 efi and I have a fast beeping alarm that the people at Merc didn't have explanation for. They said it was the oil level sensor. It knew it wasn't. Was your alarm a fast beep that stayed continuous from key on?
Well done Sir, truly!
I have a 2000 optimax 150 that is leaking from the same location...on the back side by the connector...can you just remove the bell housing with the 3 Allen stock bolts to replace the o-ring? And did you have to prime the oil pump after the repair? Thanks for posting this video!
Yea you will have to prime the pump before restarting. I used the method that puts it in break in mode. Go from neutral to drive 3 to 4 times with key to the on position until u hear prime sequence. Some say this is a bad way to do it but it has worked for me great all 3 times and has never caused a spark plug failure. The house comes off the the oring is behind the housing. Simple fix once you find the oring
@@NCshooter1213
Awesome shooter...you da man!!!
Thanks for posting! Not sure if anyone is still looking at this but I have a Nissian Direct Injection which uses the same pump. Mine was leaking however it was caused from a crack in the Brass piston moves up and down in the upper portion of the Unit. I wonder how many of these are caused by that crack vs the oring?
Prolly tons and tons of these get replaced because of an oring. Owning my optimax has taught me alot about mercury. They are crooks 10000%. Tiny rubber diapghrams are 250$. It's a rip off the way they sell parts for these engines
@@NCshooter1213 I wound up ordering a new pump. Its from Japan (Tohatsu), but says made in the United States. Weird. I took off the cap and the brass piston on the new pump looks like someone installed it with a pair of vise grips.
A Menards part. Awesome find! Thank you.
after you replace the O-ring how do you prime the pump??
Turn the key to start and cycle the shifter from neutral to forward 3 or 4 times and the engine will do a prime sequence and will be put into break in mode for a set number of hrs. Some ppl will say " you must pay a shop to prime it" I have always primed mine this way and it's been fine. No fouled plugs or any insanely high oil usage
Where did you get the paper work break down?
Did you happen to notice if the brass sleeve covering the spool for the solenoid on the oil pump had a hairline crack in it? I have a Mariner Optimax 150 with the same problem, dribbles oil, brass sleeve cracked, o-ring pinched in two places, gonna replace the o-ring as you did, since the coil is sealed, it wont hurt it to get oil in it. I'll bet money, a brand new pump has the same problem with the o-ring. Can't see the o-ring where its pinched unless you remove the coil.
Thanks. Good tip. Im getting 2 optimaxs around the same vintage. Would you say overall, its a reliable engine?
I have never been left stranded by mine so far. The only thing that has gave me steady issues is the tracker valve diaphragm. If your not familiar with those look them up. I started keeping one on my boat as a spare. But other than that my opti has been great. Lots of long long runs at high speeds not a problem. Cheap on oil too. And there not quite as complicated to work on as ppl say if u have a small amount of mechanical knowledge. I have done all my work myself so far and i have been all through mine upgrading parts slowly. Good luck to you and if u get tours and have any issues feel free to message me. I feel confident on this vintage opti
@@NCshooter1213 what part of n c ??
I am attempting to do the same thing on a 2013. I removed the allen bolts and really not sure what I should do next. How do I remove the cylinder piece inside? Do I just pull it out hard or pry it out? Just not wanting to do any damage. I assume this o ring is behind the cylider piece I am looking to remove. Any tips or advice would be apperciated.
The housing on the cylinder piece will come apart. The cylinder piece comes apart in 2 pieces. You should see the split in it about halfway down it. Once the bolts are removed from the top of the cylinder piece it will come apart in 2 pieces. Remember there is an oring in there so ot may be stuck together just be gentle and pop ot apart and you will see the oring i replaced
Were you getting an alarm of low oil?
No. No alarms just leaking oil. I never let the oil tank get low. If your getting low oil alarms and you have oil in the reservoir then it's the sensor on the bottom on the oil tank. Easy to replace
I am try to figure out why my Suzuki DT225 is injecting too much oil.
Is this o ring compatible with an 07 optimax 225?
I believe after 2003 they changed the oil pumps. I may be wrong im just going from memory.
I am checking out the oil sensor to get some clues...
Saw your post on bbc forums. Oil pump still holding up? Thanks
I still run this at tourneys to this day. Only issue lately is tracker valve's. But the oil pump has been flawless
@@NCshooter1213 sweet.. saved 700 bux
Hi I was wondering if you can tell me after you put it back together how did you bleed the air out of the lines ?
A
@@acalendrillo
The dealer has to prime the oil system using a computer plugged into the motor. Should cost between $50-100. There is a way to do it without a computer, but it will put the motor in "breakin" mode, which will double the oil rate for two hours (above 3000 rpm) and you will spend more in dfi oil and fouled spark plugs than having the dealer perform the oil prime with the computer.
Great video thanks for sharing.
Replaced. And no leaks now. Be sure to do an oil pump prime sequence.
Tommy Guiser yep oil pump prime is a must. I choose the shifter method which put my motor back in break-in more for 2 hours. Put throttle from neutral to forward gear 3 times to engage the break in oil prime. Mines been fine every since. And I DIDN'T foul ANY it's during break in
NCshooter1213 Is that somewhere in the book? How exactly do I do that? Do I shift back and forth with the motor running and how do I know it worked? Do I need to drain oil tank before taking oil pump housing off? Mines leaking on a 90hp optimax and Im about to replace spark plugs anyway so not worried about fouling. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for the video
mattmatt turn the key to Then on position but do not start motor. Go from neutral to forward and bacvk to neutral 3 times and u will hear the oil pump begin it's prime. Do it with a smooth and consistent speed to trigger the prime.
NCshooter1213 Great! I'll try it out tomorrow. Thanks again
just save me 800$ i had 150 pcs orings kit and there was 10 of these orings
AWESOME!!!! I'm super glad you figured it out. Since buying this boat the optimax has been nothing but a headache. Needless to say I have learned alot doing my own work. It's worth it