The first to notice! Hahahah I didn't realize it was there until I started moving the tank around! Ha, the tank was just pulled from the bilge and out of the bracket :) Good eye!
Great information. I just came across your video. Last summer I replaced my oil reservoir cap/magnetic float on my 1992 Mercury 150 HP XR6 because my cap cracked. I installed the new cap and the alarm was still sounding for low oil when the reservoir and 3 gallon tank were both full. I had the company replace where I purchased the new cap with another cap because I thought it was faulty. I placed a magnet on top of both of these new oil reservoir caps and the alarm quit sounding. Because of this, I used JB Weld to secure my old caps magnet to the 2nd new cap's magnet for extra magnetic pull/force. That worked all of last summer with multiple trips to the lake and in March of this year. Today, I tried to go fishing with my boys for Father's Day and the alarm was sounding again. I brought it home without getting it off of the trailer and put the magnet on top of the cap again and the alarm quit sounding again. Took the magnet off the cap and the alarm continued sounding in sequence of me putting the magnet on the cap and taking it off. I'm wondering if this could be caused by the electronic pack/computer pack looking thing that the blue wire from the oil reservoir cap connects to and maybe could be bad, if that has anything to do with the strength of the magnetic pull for the oil reservoir to work properly, or do you think it's something else? I searched TH-cam and can't find anything regarding this particular issue. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Although I have not had a 2-stroke since the early 1970's! (inboards after that, until now; yami 300!)... I still love learning what you are teaching! You are the Jeopardy Champion of motors! Thank you for you videos...
My 115 Yamaha used to occasionally get overoiled and blow smoke when the float level stuck on high level so I put a bypass switch in the feed line to manually fill the Motor tank. That has worked fine without needing to replace the remote float unit.
I am having the issue with our Yamaha V250. I'm checking the system to morrow and maybe clean the float sensor on the main reservoir. Thanks man, saved me a lot of time. Take care
Great videos. I am a technician as well, but don’t get that much hands in with the older motors. Your videos are great for when I do run across older motors that I don’t have much hands on with. Keep up the great work.
1989 150 Yamaha outboard / (2stroke) Dual engine installation - Re: Oil warning system issue. • Port engine Multigauge is showing Yellow oil warning light, regardless if Sub-tank (boat) is full to top and has a new level sensor installed. • Swapped complete engine harness connectors under console stbd to port vs versa and yellow warning light switched over to stbd multigauge. (confirming multigauge is working properly) • Oil system circuit harness - Resistance test done on both engine oil harnesses and tested out good with the same result (port vs stbd). I welcome any suggestions you are willing to lend. Thank you.
Thank you for another great video. I have a 2002 Yamaha 150txra 2-Stroke. I am not getting power to the pump from the motor. When I use the toggle switch I get nothing. I have checked/replaced all the floats. Could it be the “computer”? When you mention computer; what exactly is that? The CDI unit?
Best channel to learn boating stuff for people that need to do their own work as much as possible. Quick question if you have the time? I have 1999 175 Yamaha Saltwater2 series carb version. My motor is running lean could that be from the filters? The oil container on the engine seems full? Thank you again
Just bought yamaha 130 beto 1990. I removed the oil pump and now using pre-mix gas. Maybe unnessecery, but i think that better safe then sorry. One less thin that can broke, old engine and not wort much. Payed 1600€, here in Finland. Cheapest on sale at the time.
Congratulations! That's cool, a lot of those engines from the 90's that's what most people do. Probably why they are still running :) I used to do that with the old Johnson OceanPro's and OceanRunner's. Premix a little heavy and just change out the spark plugs more often :) Like you said, better safe than sorry! Good deal, thank you for commenting!
Great Vid !! Quick question: Where does the blue connecter from the extension oil tank connect on the motor . Yamaha ox66. I have the extension tank but I'm not sure where to connect it to the motor. Thanks
I am new here - just subscribed, and I liked your video. I have experience with a sailboat and one year ago I bought a powerboat with Mercury Opti 150HP. Next weekend I will add more oil to the main reservatory and your tips were valuable to me. Thanks.
That's awesome, Thank you and congratulations on the new boat! That's great :) you shouldn't have any trouble! You are welcome and thanks for commenting!
Thank you! Mostly the float just stops going up and gets stuck on the bottom. Idk if it gets soaked with oil over time and no longer floats or what, but it definitely sticks on the bottom and that's 9 times out of 10 what goes wrong with them.
Fantastic video...as usual learnt alot. I run a 150 opti on my rib and have had no issues and put on 1200 miles on her last season Well I cant say no issues. I was about 5 miles off shore when she started vibrating alot and I could feel power was reduced. A similar issue happened on a car before so I straight away figured one cylinder was dead. Opened her up and a spark plug was missing...looked through the engine cover and found the missing culprit, put it in and tightened and never had issues (that happened 800 miles ago) Anyway would you have any videos for servicing the optis??Google is just saying spark plugs and gear oil I live in Ireland and use her mainly in the sea so she gets flushed after every use
Thank you! Wow, that's some good run time, that's awesome! Happy to hear the worst of the issues was a spark plug :) Not at this moment, I don't have any video of an optimax yet. Eventually I will. Your service for those are just the plugs, boat fuel filters, inline oil filters, air filters, thermostats, impeller and gear lube, and occasionally you'll have to clean out that screen that is on the port side of the engine that can get stuff clogged in it. :) Hopefully I'll get on an Opti soon and be able to make a video for you! Thank you for the comment!
How can you tell if the oil pump under the cowling on the yamaha outboards is bad. You mentioned it can fail and will "over oil" as a fail safe! Love the videos! Always learning.
I just bought a 1999 mercury dfi 225. I want to install a reserve tank in my boat. How do I hook up the pressure side to the tank. Also your thoughts on blocking the oil pump and mixing in the fuel tank. I don’t really like that option but it has been mentioned to me. Thanks for the tech tuesdays
Here's about deleting the oil system and premixing: th-cam.com/video/YKsIfMnJ1ig/w-d-xo.html Not advisable for the opti, it wouldn't be good. You just run the hoses to the tank, that's pretty much each :/
@@BornAgainBoating much appreciated. That was exactly what I needed. I did get a service manual. Outboards are new to me I’m at home on an inboard diesel.
How can you test the Mercury oil pump with the engine off? Thank you! I want to know if the problem is the sensor (common reservoir magnet issue) or rather the oil pump… Thank you!
Having problems with a 2002 yamaha 115 TLRB 2 stroke I bought a few weeks ago. The motor has been stuck in “safe mode” since I got it. I don’t have yamaha gauges it’s only hooked up to my 704 and a key switch with no alarm. it has 120+/- psi on all four. I believe it’s an oil code because it starts basically right after I turn it on. The oil injection has been disconnected and I premix it 50:1. You can start it and it will rev out but after 5 seconds it goes back to safe mode and only revs to around 2,000 rpm and shakes. Motor isn’t getting hot,I used a temp gun and all cylinders only got to 120 degrees under load. All cylinders have strong spark. I cleaned the carbs, bought new plugs. The impeller isn’t that old and it pisses like a race horse. It’s sounds like it’s running strong on all 4 at idle and revs high right after you turn it on but after 5 seconds it puts it self in safe mode. I’ve tried all the wiring tricks I could, plugging the tank back up with the float zip tied up. Ive tried tricking the system with some wiring tricks I found on a forum but with no luck. I’ve read through most of the forums with the same problems and haven’t found anything that has worked yet. Is it in safe mode due to no yamaha gauges/not having an alarm system? I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I know it has to be something simple. Thanks in advance
Hello, it sounds like an oil issue. Is there a reason you got rid of the oiling system? That engine and that oil system was a great system. It wasn't like the Evinrudes VRO that failed all the time. The Yamaha System was pretty bulletproof! If it goes into safe mode it is most likely oil related. You said you tried to put the whole system back together and it didn't work? Even if you have the oil tank float switch hooked up and upside down?
@@BornAgainBoating I just bought this motor a month ago in islandmorado. Came with no lower unit but since I already have an old 1987 115 and an extra leg I bought it to replace it on my whaler. The motor came with the oil injection disconnected. Everything was still there until I took the tank and switch off. I know that they are great units. I've just heard of failures in the mechanical arms and I've had a buddy blow one up because of it. I also don't mind mixing gas plus my old 1987 came with the whole oil injection deleted. My motors usually don't troll or idle very much anyway so I'm not too worried about the carbon build up. I've tried cleaning all my connections, switching batteries, etc. With no change. I also rewired my key switch thinking it might be a bad connection somewhere. I have a buddy that's gonna sell me a Yamaha ignition switch and the two analog gauges. That way at least I can tell if it is the oil code and not heat related. I'm hoping it resolves my issue but I'm not gonna bet on it. I've tried everything I can think of wiring wise, and played with the float switch but It does the same thing every time. Could it be in safe mode due to no oil alarm? Is there a way of tricking the system to get it out of safe mode? I don't believe its heat related because it happens after 5 seconds of the motor being on... but I also know that stuck poppet valves and clogged up water jackets are very common too.
Hopefully, it isn't heat related. It sounds like you have mostly ruled that out. Since you have that same engine. You can look at it and compare the oil system. I was always under the impression that when you take off the oil tank and the system, you have to leave the float on the engine hooked up and zip tied upside down. Which tricks the computer into thinking it is full of oil. It's possible that the oil float sensor went bad and that's why they disconnected it, instead of fixing it.
@@BornAgainBoating I tested the switch and its working as it should so it has to be heat-related at this point. Im gonna buy new thermostats and change the poppet valve hopefully that fixes my problem. I don't see how it can be heat-related though given how it gets put into rpm reduction mode 5 seconds after the motor is started. Could the temp sensors be bad? Or bad thermos and a poppet valve? I'm also gonna get some Yamaha gauges from a friend to see if it's giving me an overheating alarm.
It's possible that the temp sensor is bad. I really doubt that it is heat related as well, it's "almost" impossible for the engine to overheat in 5 seconds from start up.
I've heard of that too, depends on what engine. To be honest, they are a pretty good system and you definitely don't want to do that on an HPDI, that will end up blowing up the engine :(
Great video!! Have a 96 cobia 130hp v4 the manual doesn’t seem to fill so I started troubleshooting. With the ignition in the on position or engine on The alarm works when I remove the cap on the oil tank on the engine. But if I hit the switch I don’t hear the reservoir motor. When I touch it it’s hot. Is it supposed to have 12v constantly or only when float is down? I’m confused on proper operation. Thanks for any help in advance
Where can I find a wire harness that goes from oil tank to main harness for a a 2003 vmax 200hp? Someone disconnected resivoir instead of replacing the pump, so I'm having to remove cowling every few hours to add oil to main tank. Harness is nowhere to be found on this thing.
They are pretty close to the same price. Mercury's or well the Optimax pump is about $460 and the Yamaha Oil Pump, for an HPDI is $433. So pretty close, the oil pump that goes in the reserve tank for the opti is $200.
I’m having problems with my mercury 200 offshore too I’m getting to much oil in the pistons idk if it’s because of some coils that it’s going bad but also having trouble with getting oil to the main tank in the engine. Help please
Love your videos. Really helps to understand the maintenance part of boating. Also, I would like to know what is the name of the song you use at the end of the videos? Greetings from Puerto Rico.
hello friend, I have two yamaha v 225 ox66 fuel injection. Could I remove my oil storage tank and engine, and do direct mixing in my 50-1 fuel tank directly to my fuel storage tank and use it? can it be done on these types of engines? excellent videos, and thanks for your attention
Extremely informative video, like all videos Aaron does! Thanks for another great video. I have a Mercury 1997 225 OB, recently I ran the oil dry. Since then the oil alarm does not stop beeping. Every two minutes I get the 4 beeps. I've purged the oil line to the tank. I've purged the pump. I put a magnet on the sensor and used a multi meter to assure it registered. I also used a hanger to run the float up and down with the sensor in place and watched it register as well. All seems to be good but the alarm does not stop beeping. Don't know what else to do? Any thoughts?
Great video! For the Yamaha how would you go about testing the two floats and the wiring harness. I’m having the issue on my ox66 and already changed the filter. The oil pump runs with the manual switch but won’t will up the tank automatically. I’m in the Miami area, would love if you can take a look.
Thank you Bryan, sorry but I'm not in the Miami area, down in the keys and I don't really do side work. You can test the sensors by ohming them out with a meter. Or maybe find someone there in Miami that you can swap one sensor over at a time and see if it fixes it :) that would be an easy way without having meters and break downs.
i have a problem with my mercury 90 hp efi outboard, i have 4 beeps every 2 minutes, ive checked the water sensor and its ok. ive checked the oil sensor contiuniity and get an open circuit is this normal with a full tank of oil or is it bad? thanks jim
I wanna service this whole oil system on my ox66. If I’m not getting any alarms or my internal tank always looks full should I worry or even service anything? I just wanna make sure my baby gets her oil. It’s a 2004 and she’s got life left for me yet
I have an 85 black max 150 merc, my problem is that the main tank is over presurising and the the oil is coming out of the cap what could be causing this?
I haven’t used my boat in a while. I have a 2003 Yamaha 250 2 stroke with that oil system. I turned the power on when I changed out the stereo system. I heard the pump prim itself. I never started the boat after words. I shut the power back off and today I turned it on and didn’t hear it prime. Should it prime everytime I turn power on to the boat?
Your channel is awesome !! I’m rebuilding two immersed Verado and many videos help me in my job, specially for FSM and lower unit !! Many many thanks !! Any chance you rebuild a supercharger ? Spare parts are not sell by mercury and it’s not schedule to unmount this parts
That's awesome! I wish you the best of luck with your project :) No, I haven't taken a super charger apart in awhile! They aren't that serviceable but I do think you can get the bearings for them.
Xavier Mugabure he’s putting in a good effort but he also has a fantastic skilled mechanic. I imagine his supercharger is broken because it got submerged while running. Maybe it can give you some ideas how to locate a used one.
I have a 1999 mercury Opti max 150, the oil reservoir started leaking when we took it out and it dumped a lot of oil out of the reservoir ( normal to happen with the design) the new one i bought seems to be a little more sturdy. My question is, can I just put oil in the oil reserve and the oil tank and be good? I've read on forums that a piece of equipment is needed to bleed the system? i plan on going out this Sunday and I really don't want to blow the motor. any advice will be appreciated !!! Thank you for the videos I've watched them all!
Will the oil toggle switch work (2000 Yamaha 130 txry) when the engine mounted tank has the safe amount of oil in it? A mechanic told me that the toggle switch would not engage the pump if the float switch was at the safe level. To test the oil pump, can the brown and blue wires on the pump be disconnected from the harness and a 12 volt source be introduced? Thanks
With the key switch on, the toggle switch will turn the pump on regardless of where the float switch is. It's an over ride switch :) You can power up the pump with a 12V source as well, that's how we test the pumps, disconnect the bullets at the pump and put power to it :)
@@BornAgainBoatingThanks! The pump is bad so how do you disconnect it from the tank? Do you need a special tool? Also, once the new pump is installed, does it need to be primed and , if so, what is the best method? Thanks again.
Huge question!!! I ran a different "cheaper" brand of oil and ran my direct injection on my 2000 Mercury 4 cylinder 2 stroke dry! It ran out way before it has in the past. Like a half a tank of gas sooner...about 30 gallons. Lost a lot of compression n my #2 cylinder and had to get towed to shore. Engine still cranks over and runs now. Is this common? Is the other oil that much thinner??? Was it me just running around a lot faster??? Novice with 2 strokes...do I keep running it or rebuild?
Ouch! Yeah, saving 10 bucks on a gallon of oil sometimes has it's down sides :/ Um, you should pull the intake and the reed plate and look into the crankcase and see what kind of damage has been done. A loss of compression on a two stroke, like this, in this situation, might be catastrophic :(
@@BornAgainBoating I scoped the cylinder and saw scoring. But it runs now that I added oil and it will also go into gear without stalling (out of water) which it didn't before. Hand turn flywheel and watch everything...seems smooth. Also, shouldn't there have been a fail safe or an alarm go off?... Nevertheless.... Check crank case?
@@BornAgainBoating hey BTW just wanted to say that if I had the money I would pay you for the wealth of information you have provided me with! Such a huge blessing being able to find you...a huge thank you!
I have a 2001 yammy ox66 200hp, not pumping oil. Both float switches are new, pump works, emergency switch wont pump. All wires from pump to engine tank show continuity. Is there a relay or fuse to test that I am missing? Any thoughts? Thank you.
@@BornAgainBoating your the man dude, thanks. It’s in good condition mechanically and is a 2001. Is there a way to check the oil pumps condition. I’m not sure what to look for.
Thank you! I would like to be able to do a couple of service videos for a couple of engines, but we don't see a lot of those Etecs down here. We've only got two Etec dealers in the keys and then the next closest one is in Miami! Since we don't see a lot of them, I don't have a lot of experience with them or the chance to make the video. I am working on getting into some different manufactures though, so maybe sometime in the future that will be a possibility :) Thank you for commenting!
We don't see a lot of them down here, but I have a friend that has a 2005 E-TEC and he has done literally nothing, service wise, until something breaks. And that engine seems to hold up really well even with the neglect! So, I think they are a decent engine. It all depends on what you are looking for. These days companies can't really get away with just making an awful product. The public and the industry would just shun them and they would lose tons of money. In my opinion, for the most part, all the big brands make pretty good engines at different HP ranges.
Well, we change a ton of oil tanks for the Merc's, but we change a lot of oil pumps, boat harness's and both sensors on the Yami's. So I guess I would say the Yamaha's, but that is only because there are more parts to the system. I would say on an annual scale though, the number of boats that go down for a weekend because of an oil issue. It's probably really close!
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks. Assuming similar reliability, I guess the next question then is, which is likely cheaper to own after the warranty is up? ;)
You're welcome! Hahah, that is the question we all want to know, isn't it! You know, I think it really depends on where you live. Now that neither company is making two strokes anymore. Down here in the keys you can get your hands on a used Yamaha 2-Stroke a lot quicker than you can a Mercury. We see a ton of OX-66's and HPDI's right now that people are taking off and re-powering. So for down here, the Yamaha! But I would say if you live closer to Wisconsin you could probably pick up the Merc's a lot cheaper! On the which is cheaper to own, neither lol all outboards and boats are expensive! ;)
@@BornAgainBoating This is true! My Honda is 20yrs old, almost all salt use, a few hours north of you. Still running perfect, but on borrowed time so I'm starting to look around to get an idea for what's out there.
That's awesome! Honda's are nice, 20 years old though, Idk if you can save any of the rigging, compatibility wise. Otherwise you could just stick with Honda and save some money on the rigging. But if none of it is compatible, and you are going to buy used. You might as well shop around and see what's available when you are ready to buy. What horsepower is the engine?
So on a Yamaha if the pump is working and the main tank is full then the rest of the system is working? I have dual 200s and on one of the gauges the oil tank sensor stays on the middle line and it flashes even when the main tank is full does that mean the sensor is bad?
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
@@BornAgainBoating hi there! Could You give me your opinion about my oil pump Mercury optimax 150 hp model 1999? At the End Black plastic round shape there is oil that comes out very slightly ás if there cut..no run pisicion,is the pump screwed?
My Yamaha powerhead tank gets low and I get and alarm but will fill with the emergency toggle on the motor. Think the filter on the remote tank is gummed up or the float on the tank is bad?
I have an Oil injection system on my Merc Mod VP 270. My mechanic took me aside when I bought it new and said; Better to mix your oil and gas yourself! Watching 7 minutes of all the things that can go wrong? Just sayin"
Carburated Engines: Its a trade off. I have had experience with both mixing and injecting. I'll admit I do worry if the injection will fail. Mixing is ok but it uses a lot more oil thus smokes more. The 50:1 mix is what's required at max RPM so premixing gives the engine max oil all the time, injection provides variable lubrication on demand when needed, not much lubrication is required at idle speed.so at lower RPMs less oil is required which is what the injection system does resulting in a cleaner burn, faster starts, better engine performance and very low smoke compared to premixing. The spark plugs dont take a bath either. When properly installed...the Yamaha system is pretty reliable and easy to maintain and easy to eliminate, it's a personal choice .
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
that was a huge cockroach!!!!
The first to notice! Hahahah I didn't realize it was there until I started moving the tank around! Ha, the tank was just pulled from the bilge and out of the bracket :) Good eye!
@@BornAgainBoating thanks man I tend to notice every little thing!!!!
My grandmother ( Floridian ) called them palmetto bugs but it’s actually an Asian Cockroach and yes they get HUGE. They’re everywhere in Florida.
Yup! I call them cockroaches too lol
Them things fly like crazy. Palmeto roaches will have people running like crazy when they go into flight mode . Hahahaha🤣🤣🤣👌👌👌
Great information. I just came across your video. Last summer I replaced my oil reservoir cap/magnetic float on my 1992 Mercury 150 HP XR6 because my cap cracked. I installed the new cap and the alarm was still sounding for low oil when the reservoir and 3 gallon tank were both full. I had the company replace where I purchased the new cap with another cap because I thought it was faulty. I placed a magnet on top of both of these new oil reservoir caps and the alarm quit sounding. Because of this, I used JB Weld to secure my old caps magnet to the 2nd new cap's magnet for extra magnetic pull/force. That worked all of last summer with multiple trips to the lake and in March of this year. Today, I tried to go fishing with my boys for Father's Day and the alarm was sounding again. I brought it home without getting it off of the trailer and put the magnet on top of the cap again and the alarm quit sounding again. Took the magnet off the cap and the alarm continued sounding in sequence of me putting the magnet on the cap and taking it off. I'm wondering if this could be caused by the electronic pack/computer pack looking thing that the blue wire from the oil reservoir cap connects to and maybe could be bad, if that has anything to do with the strength of the magnetic pull for the oil reservoir to work properly, or do you think it's something else? I searched TH-cam and can't find anything regarding this particular issue. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Although I have not had a 2-stroke since the early 1970's! (inboards after that, until now; yami 300!)... I still love learning what you are teaching! You are the Jeopardy Champion of motors! Thank you for you videos...
Hahha that's awesome! Looks like the Jeopardy Champion has been taken down this week, that James guy almost hit 2.5 million dollars, that's insane!
My 115 Yamaha used to occasionally get overoiled and blow smoke when the float level stuck on high level so I put a bypass switch in the feed line to manually fill the Motor tank. That has worked fine without needing to replace the remote float unit.
I am having the issue with our Yamaha V250. I'm checking the system to morrow and maybe clean the float sensor on the main reservoir. Thanks man, saved me a lot of time. Take care
Great videos. I am a technician as well, but don’t get that much hands in with the older motors. Your videos are great for when I do run across older motors that I don’t have much hands on with.
Keep up the great work.
That's awesome! Thank you, :) will do!
I went to MMI in 2016 and your videos are better then the labs and instructors
That's awesome, lol I went there in 2011 :) Thank you so much!
I second that comment.
@@reelguy8856 thank you!
1989 150 Yamaha outboard / (2stroke) Dual engine installation - Re: Oil warning system issue.
• Port engine Multigauge is showing Yellow oil warning light, regardless if Sub-tank (boat) is full to top and has a new level sensor installed.
• Swapped complete engine harness connectors under console stbd to port vs versa and yellow warning light switched over to stbd multigauge. (confirming multigauge is working properly)
• Oil system circuit harness - Resistance test done on both engine oil harnesses and tested out good with the same result (port vs stbd).
I welcome any suggestions you are willing to lend. Thank you.
Thank you for another great video. I have a 2002 Yamaha 150txra 2-Stroke. I am not getting power to the pump from the motor. When I use the toggle switch I get nothing. I have checked/replaced all the floats.
Could it be the “computer”?
When you mention computer; what exactly is that? The CDI unit?
Best channel to learn boating stuff for people that need to do their own work as much as possible. Quick question if you have the time? I have 1999 175 Yamaha Saltwater2 series carb version. My motor is running lean could that be from the filters? The oil container on the engine seems full?
Thank you again
Very helpful. I’ll be able to diagnose my motor when I get off the boat.
Does Mercury gives you an audible alarm if there's no oil going to engine?
Yes, it scared the hell out of me
Just bought yamaha 130 beto 1990. I removed the oil pump and now using pre-mix gas. Maybe unnessecery, but i think that better safe then sorry. One less thin that can broke, old engine and not wort much. Payed 1600€, here in Finland. Cheapest on sale at the time.
Congratulations! That's cool, a lot of those engines from the 90's that's what most people do. Probably why they are still running :) I used to do that with the old Johnson OceanPro's and OceanRunner's. Premix a little heavy and just change out the spark plugs more often :) Like you said, better safe than sorry! Good deal, thank you for commenting!
Same issue on my hpdi Yamaha thanks a lot
Great Vid !! Quick question: Where does the blue connecter from the extension oil tank connect on the motor . Yamaha ox66. I have the extension tank but I'm not sure where to connect it to the motor. Thanks
Just had a Yamaha oil system fail and blew my engine any videos on doing a bypass/delete for OX66 250?
I am new here - just subscribed, and I liked your video. I have experience with a sailboat and one year ago I bought a powerboat with Mercury Opti 150HP. Next weekend I will add more oil to the main reservatory and your tips were valuable to me. Thanks.
That's awesome, Thank you and congratulations on the new boat! That's great :) you shouldn't have any trouble! You are welcome and thanks for commenting!
Opti 150 great motor
Please explain in detail why the float and magnet on the Mercury oil system would fail. Great video!
Thank you! Mostly the float just stops going up and gets stuck on the bottom. Idk if it gets soaked with oil over time and no longer floats or what, but it definitely sticks on the bottom and that's 9 times out of 10 what goes wrong with them.
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks for the reply. Strange......I am aware that some plastics swell when exposed to petroleum products.
Fantastic video...as usual learnt alot. I run a 150 opti on my rib and have had no issues and put on 1200 miles on her last season
Well I cant say no issues. I was about 5 miles off shore when she started vibrating alot and I could feel power was reduced. A similar issue happened on a car before so I straight away figured one cylinder was dead. Opened her up and a spark plug was missing...looked through the engine cover and found the missing culprit, put it in and tightened and never had issues (that happened 800 miles ago)
Anyway would you have any videos for servicing the optis??Google is just saying spark plugs and gear oil
I live in Ireland and use her mainly in the sea so she gets flushed after every use
Thank you! Wow, that's some good run time, that's awesome! Happy to hear the worst of the issues was a spark plug :) Not at this moment, I don't have any video of an optimax yet. Eventually I will. Your service for those are just the plugs, boat fuel filters, inline oil filters, air filters, thermostats, impeller and gear lube, and occasionally you'll have to clean out that screen that is on the port side of the engine that can get stuff clogged in it. :) Hopefully I'll get on an Opti soon and be able to make a video for you! Thank you for the comment!
What about a 40 HP 2 stroke autolube Hmodel engine, does the engines has a switch?
How can you tell if the oil pump under the cowling on the yamaha outboards is bad. You mentioned it can fail and will "over oil" as a fail safe! Love the videos! Always learning.
Normally the linkage breaks, but if you look at it, with the linkage disconnected you should be able to move it.
I just bought a 1999 mercury dfi 225. I want to install a reserve tank in my boat. How do I hook up the pressure side to the tank. Also your thoughts on blocking the oil pump and mixing in the fuel tank. I don’t really like that option but it has been mentioned to me. Thanks for the tech tuesdays
Here's about deleting the oil system and premixing: th-cam.com/video/YKsIfMnJ1ig/w-d-xo.html
Not advisable for the opti, it wouldn't be good.
You just run the hoses to the tank, that's pretty much each :/
@@BornAgainBoating much appreciated. That was exactly what I needed. I did get a service manual. Outboards are new to me I’m at home on an inboard diesel.
How can you test the Mercury oil pump with the engine off? Thank you! I want to know if the problem is the sensor (common reservoir magnet issue) or rather the oil pump… Thank you!
Thank you for the good insight and have just joined the BAB community. Thx
Great video, now do a comparison video with Johnson motors and their VRO’s.
Having problems with a 2002 yamaha 115 TLRB 2 stroke I bought a few weeks ago. The motor has been stuck in “safe mode” since I got it. I don’t have yamaha gauges it’s only hooked up to my 704 and a key switch with no alarm. it has 120+/- psi on all four. I believe it’s an oil code because it starts basically right after I turn it on. The oil injection has been disconnected and I premix it 50:1. You can start it and it will rev out but after 5 seconds it goes back to safe mode and only revs to around 2,000 rpm and shakes. Motor isn’t getting hot,I used a temp gun and all cylinders only got to 120 degrees under load. All cylinders have strong spark. I cleaned the carbs, bought new plugs. The impeller isn’t that old and it pisses like a race horse. It’s sounds like it’s running strong on all 4 at idle and revs high right after you turn it on but after 5 seconds it puts it self in safe mode. I’ve tried all the wiring tricks I could, plugging the tank back up with the float zip tied up. Ive tried tricking the system with some wiring tricks I found on a forum but with no luck. I’ve read through most of the forums with the same problems and haven’t found anything that has worked yet. Is it in safe mode due to no yamaha gauges/not having an alarm system? I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I know it has to be something simple. Thanks in advance
Hello, it sounds like an oil issue. Is there a reason you got rid of the oiling system? That engine and that oil system was a great system. It wasn't like the Evinrudes VRO that failed all the time. The Yamaha System was pretty bulletproof! If it goes into safe mode it is most likely oil related. You said you tried to put the whole system back together and it didn't work? Even if you have the oil tank float switch hooked up and upside down?
@@BornAgainBoating I just bought this motor a month ago in islandmorado. Came with no lower unit but since I already have an old 1987 115 and an extra leg I bought it to replace it on my whaler. The motor came with the oil injection disconnected. Everything was still there until I took the tank and switch off. I know that they are great units. I've just heard of failures in the mechanical arms and I've had a buddy blow one up because of it. I also don't mind mixing gas plus my old 1987 came with the whole oil injection deleted. My motors usually don't troll or idle very much anyway so I'm not too worried about the carbon build up. I've tried cleaning all my connections, switching batteries, etc. With no change. I also rewired my key switch thinking it might be a bad connection somewhere. I have a buddy that's gonna sell me a Yamaha ignition switch and the two analog gauges. That way at least I can tell if it is the oil code and not heat related. I'm hoping it resolves my issue but I'm not gonna bet on it. I've tried everything I can think of wiring wise, and played with the float switch but It does the same thing every time. Could it be in safe mode due to no oil alarm? Is there a way of tricking the system to get it out of safe mode? I don't believe its heat related because it happens after 5 seconds of the motor being on... but I also know that stuck poppet valves and clogged up water jackets are very common too.
Hopefully, it isn't heat related. It sounds like you have mostly ruled that out. Since you have that same engine. You can look at it and compare the oil system. I was always under the impression that when you take off the oil tank and the system, you have to leave the float on the engine hooked up and zip tied upside down. Which tricks the computer into thinking it is full of oil. It's possible that the oil float sensor went bad and that's why they disconnected it, instead of fixing it.
@@BornAgainBoating I tested the switch and its working as it should so it has to be heat-related at this point. Im gonna buy new thermostats and change the poppet valve hopefully that fixes my problem. I don't see how it can be heat-related though given how it gets put into rpm reduction mode 5 seconds after the motor is started. Could the temp sensors be bad? Or bad thermos and a poppet valve? I'm also gonna get some Yamaha gauges from a friend to see if it's giving me an overheating alarm.
It's possible that the temp sensor is bad. I really doubt that it is heat related as well, it's "almost" impossible for the engine to overheat in 5 seconds from start up.
I have the two stroke Yamaha oil system. I’ve heard of people eliminating the system and just mixing the oil. What do you think about that? Thanks
I've heard of that too, depends on what engine. To be honest, they are a pretty good system and you definitely don't want to do that on an HPDI, that will end up blowing up the engine :(
Thanks for the response! The engines are 1996 150 s150txru. Thanks again. All of your videos are great!
Great video. Thank you. Looking 4 2001 225 Opti overtemp code troubleshooting procedure please. Thank you.
Great video.! Do you know if i can use yamaha oil on my optimax ? Thanks
Great video!! Have a 96 cobia 130hp v4 the manual doesn’t seem to fill so I started troubleshooting. With the ignition in the on position or engine on The alarm works when I remove the cap on the oil tank on the engine. But if I hit the switch I don’t hear the reservoir motor. When I touch it it’s hot. Is it supposed to have 12v constantly or only when float is down? I’m confused on proper operation. Thanks for any help in advance
Great video, have a 2002 Yamaha 250 ox66 , the oil tank will not fill. Have to use manuel switch.
I have a 98 250 ox66, and I have the same issue as well. I am trying to diagnose it, let me know if you find a solution.
always learning something new on technician tuesdays - ty
Thank you!
Not real clear on the pressure hose coming off the engine where it goes, I'm assuming it goes to the tank?
Where can I find a wire harness that goes from oil tank to main harness for a a 2003 vmax 200hp? Someone disconnected resivoir instead of replacing the pump, so I'm having to remove cowling every few hours to add oil to main tank. Harness is nowhere to be found on this thing.
The Yamaha mechanical pump on the engine needs to be replaced at any time?
Showing boys in Torres Strait ur videos.........keep it up 👍
Great video!! I learned a lot. Do a video on mercury choke vs Yamaha. My merc would never start cold. Yamaha no problem, both low hour 2 stokes.
Thank you! I'll see what I can do. We work on less and less two strokes these days lol
Awesome guys!, What's the difference in price for the internal oil pumps in case of a replacement?
They are pretty close to the same price. Mercury's or well the Optimax pump is about $460 and the Yamaha Oil Pump, for an HPDI is $433. So pretty close, the oil pump that goes in the reserve tank for the opti is $200.
need more info on oil pump 2 stroke 200 yamaha works
Great video man! Learned alot from your videos for my '98 mercury 200hp offshore. Keep it up!!!
Thank you! Definitely will do :)
I’m having problems with my mercury 200 offshore too I’m getting to much oil in the pistons idk if it’s because of some coils that it’s going bad but also having trouble with getting oil to the main tank in the engine. Help please
Love your videos. Really helps to understand the maintenance part of boating. Also, I would like to know what is the name of the song you use at the end of the videos?
Greetings from Puerto Rico.
Thank you! That's what we aim for ;) The song is called Starfields by Hallman, we get all of our music from Epidemic Sounds :)
hello friend, I have two yamaha v 225 ox66 fuel injection.
Could I remove my oil storage tank and engine, and do direct mixing in my 50-1 fuel tank directly to my fuel storage tank and use it? can it be done on these types of engines? excellent videos, and thanks for your attention
I removed mine and run premix at 50:1 on my Yamaha 200.
Extremely informative video, like all videos Aaron does! Thanks for another great video. I have a Mercury 1997 225 OB, recently I ran the oil dry. Since then the oil alarm does not stop beeping. Every two minutes I get the 4 beeps. I've purged the oil line to the tank. I've purged the pump. I put a magnet on the sensor and used a multi meter to assure it registered. I also used a hanger to run the float up and down with the sensor in place and watched it register as well. All seems to be good but the alarm does not stop beeping. Don't know what else to do? Any thoughts?
Thank you! Thats strange! Sounds like the sensor is bad but you're saying its good :( not sure what to tell you there :/
Hi I'm new here, but I'm now facing a problem with optimax with no sparking when I'm cracking the engine..... What well I need to check.....
Bro awesome video this just happened to me Sunday
With this system you don’t have to mix the gas with oil? We can just pull up to the gas pump and fill the gas like a regular car?
Exactly, but you have to fill the oil tanks up, you CANNOT forget to fill up the oil!
After replacing the pump on the Yamaha remote tank, do you need to prime the system
Great video! For the Yamaha how would you go about testing the two floats and the wiring harness. I’m having the issue on my ox66 and already changed the filter. The oil pump runs with the manual switch but won’t will up the tank automatically. I’m in the Miami area, would love if you can take a look.
Thank you Bryan, sorry but I'm not in the Miami area, down in the keys and I don't really do side work. You can test the sensors by ohming them out with a meter. Or maybe find someone there in Miami that you can swap one sensor over at a time and see if it fixes it :) that would be an easy way without having meters and break downs.
The tank on my99 ox 66 225 isn’t filling from the main tank, is it common for that filter to get clogged.? Thanks for all the awesome info as usual
Yes it is, but it's usually another component in the system that fails. Check the pump first, it's in the reserve tank in the bilge in the back.
i have a problem with my mercury 90 hp efi outboard, i have 4 beeps every 2 minutes, ive checked the water sensor and its ok. ive checked the oil sensor contiuniity and get an open circuit is this normal with a full tank of oil or is it bad? thanks jim
I know it’s years later but this video is amazing
Great! Thanks for watching!
Today I used your video. Thanks
Nice!
I wanna service this whole oil system on my ox66. If I’m not getting any alarms or my internal tank always looks full should I worry or even service anything? I just wanna make sure my baby gets her oil. It’s a 2004 and she’s got life left for me yet
nicer synopsis than the one in the yamaha manual
I have an 85 black max 150 merc, my problem is that the main tank is over presurising and the the oil is coming out of the cap what could be causing this?
I haven’t used my boat in a while. I have a 2003 Yamaha 250 2 stroke with that oil system. I turned the power on when I changed out the stereo system. I heard the pump prim itself. I never started the boat after words. I shut the power back off and today I turned it on and didn’t hear it prime. Should it prime everytime I turn power on to the boat?
Usually it turns on whenever it sees a certain oil level in the tank. The oil might have been low and turned on and filled up the tank.
Super super helpful
Your channel is awesome !! I’m rebuilding two immersed Verado and many videos help me in my job, specially for FSM and lower unit !! Many many thanks !! Any chance you rebuild a supercharger ? Spare parts are not sell by mercury and it’s not schedule to unmount this parts
That's awesome! I wish you the best of luck with your project :) No, I haven't taken a super charger apart in awhile! They aren't that serviceable but I do think you can get the bearings for them.
Thank you so much. I made a video, not great like you, th-cam.com/video/p6X6l6KV6a4/w-d-xo.html
Bearings are hard to find but I hope 🤞
Look up Alfred montaner on TH-cam he’s currently rebuilding a submerged verado
Greg H thank you. I see it and it’s awesome !!
Xavier Mugabure he’s putting in a good effort but he also has a fantastic skilled mechanic. I imagine his supercharger is broken because it got submerged while running. Maybe it can give you some ideas how to locate a used one.
Thank you...you do excellent teaching videos 👌
Always learning and following
I have a 1999 mercury Opti max 150, the oil reservoir started leaking when we took it out and it dumped a lot of oil out of the reservoir ( normal to happen with the design) the new one i bought seems to be a little more sturdy. My question is, can I just put oil in the oil reserve and the oil tank and be good? I've read on forums that a piece of equipment is needed to bleed the system? i plan on going out this Sunday and I really don't want to blow the motor. any advice will be appreciated !!! Thank you for the videos I've watched them all!
Tops very helpful .......THANK YOU
Will the oil toggle switch work (2000 Yamaha 130 txry) when the engine mounted tank has the safe amount of oil in it? A mechanic told me that the toggle switch would not engage the pump if the float switch was at the safe level. To test the oil pump, can the brown and blue wires on the pump be disconnected from the harness and a 12 volt source be introduced? Thanks
With the key switch on, the toggle switch will turn the pump on regardless of where the float switch is. It's an over ride switch :) You can power up the pump with a 12V source as well, that's how we test the pumps, disconnect the bullets at the pump and put power to it :)
@@BornAgainBoatingThanks! The pump is bad so how do you disconnect it from the tank? Do you need a special tool? Also, once the new pump is installed, does it need to be primed and , if so, what is the best method? Thanks again.
Huge question!!! I ran a different "cheaper" brand of oil and ran my direct injection on my 2000 Mercury 4 cylinder 2 stroke dry! It ran out way before it has in the past. Like a half a tank of gas sooner...about 30 gallons.
Lost a lot of compression n my #2 cylinder and had to get towed to shore. Engine still cranks over and runs now.
Is this common? Is the other oil that much thinner??? Was it me just running around a lot faster???
Novice with 2 strokes...do I keep running it or rebuild?
Ouch! Yeah, saving 10 bucks on a gallon of oil sometimes has it's down sides :/ Um, you should pull the intake and the reed plate and look into the crankcase and see what kind of damage has been done. A loss of compression on a two stroke, like this, in this situation, might be catastrophic :(
@@BornAgainBoating I scoped the cylinder and saw scoring. But it runs now that I added oil and it will also go into gear without stalling (out of water) which it didn't before. Hand turn flywheel and watch everything...seems smooth. Also, shouldn't there have been a fail safe or an alarm go off?... Nevertheless.... Check crank case?
@@BornAgainBoating hey BTW just wanted to say that if I had the money I would pay you for the wealth of information you have provided me with!
Such a huge blessing being able to find you...a huge thank you!
I have a 2001 yammy ox66 200hp, not pumping oil. Both float switches are new, pump works, emergency switch wont pump. All wires from pump to engine tank show continuity. Is there a relay or fuse to test that I am missing? Any thoughts? Thank you.
Is the mercury 50hp system reliable? Thanks
Um, depending on it's condition, I would probably be leaning more towards premixing that engine though
@@BornAgainBoating your the man dude, thanks. It’s in good condition mechanically and is a 2001. Is there a way to check the oil pumps condition. I’m not sure what to look for.
thanks dawg!
Any chance you could do a 300 hours service on a etec? Great videos
Thank you! I would like to be able to do a couple of service videos for a couple of engines, but we don't see a lot of those Etecs down here. We've only got two Etec dealers in the keys and then the next closest one is in Miami! Since we don't see a lot of them, I don't have a lot of experience with them or the chance to make the video. I am working on getting into some different manufactures though, so maybe sometime in the future that will be a possibility :) Thank you for commenting!
How are etec compared to merc or Suzuki?
We don't see a lot of them down here, but I have a friend that has a 2005 E-TEC and he has done literally nothing, service wise, until something breaks. And that engine seems to hold up really well even with the neglect! So, I think they are a decent engine. It all depends on what you are looking for. These days companies can't really get away with just making an awful product. The public and the industry would just shun them and they would lose tons of money. In my opinion, for the most part, all the big brands make pretty good engines at different HP ranges.
@@BornAgainBoating he probably knows if he has any trouble he'll call on you
@@gvsukids 😁
Just out of curiosity, which of the two systems do you see more failures with?
Well, we change a ton of oil tanks for the Merc's, but we change a lot of oil pumps, boat harness's and both sensors on the Yami's.
So I guess I would say the Yamaha's, but that is only because there are more parts to the system. I would say on an annual scale though, the number of boats that go down for a weekend because of an oil issue. It's probably really close!
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks. Assuming similar reliability, I guess the next question then is, which is likely cheaper to own after the warranty is up? ;)
You're welcome! Hahah, that is the question we all want to know, isn't it! You know, I think it really depends on where you live. Now that neither company is making two strokes anymore. Down here in the keys you can get your hands on a used Yamaha 2-Stroke a lot quicker than you can a Mercury.
We see a ton of OX-66's and HPDI's right now that people are taking off and re-powering. So for down here, the Yamaha! But I would say if you live closer to Wisconsin you could probably pick up the Merc's a lot cheaper!
On the which is cheaper to own, neither lol all outboards and boats are expensive! ;)
@@BornAgainBoating This is true! My Honda is 20yrs old, almost all salt use, a few hours north of you. Still running perfect, but on borrowed time so I'm starting to look around to get an idea for what's out there.
That's awesome! Honda's are nice, 20 years old though, Idk if you can save any of the rigging, compatibility wise. Otherwise you could just stick with Honda and save some money on the rigging. But if none of it is compatible, and you are going to buy used. You might as well shop around and see what's available when you are ready to buy.
What horsepower is the engine?
Pre mix >>>> all
my 90s mercury only has 1 oil tank on side motor driven by a mechanical oil pump
My tanks where disconnected by previous owner how can I get it all hooked up again ? Do you have a diagram ?
What system?
Great video 👍
Impeller replacement please
I can not find the little switch to test oil pump on my 2005 Yamaha 90hp 2 stroke
Excellent video!!
Thank you!
So on a Yamaha if the pump is working and the main tank is full then the rest of the system is working? I have dual 200s and on one of the gauges the oil tank sensor stays on the middle line and it flashes even when the main tank is full does that mean the sensor is bad?
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Very useful ..
Thanks a lot
@@BornAgainBoating hi there! Could You give me your opinion about my oil pump Mercury optimax 150 hp model 1999? At the End Black plastic round shape there is oil that comes out very slightly ás if there cut..no run pisicion,is the pump screwed?
My Yamaha powerhead tank gets low and I get and alarm but will fill with the emergency toggle on the motor. Think the filter on the remote tank is gummed up or the float on the tank is bad?
Mine does the same thing. Did you figure it out?
@@andrewwrona1929 yeah I bought a 2021 Suzuki 175 4 stroke. Fixed 🤣
Where are you located at I would like to take you my engine so you can check it out thanks
We are in the keys, but I don't do any side work, sorry :( Where are you, maybe I can refer someone?
@@BornAgainBoating I am in North Miami Beach maybe you could refer me to somebody thank you appreciate it I like your job you do it well
Awesome video
I was just told to premix
good videos
Thank you!
Man, that is one big roach sitting to the left of the Yamaha oil pump.. LoL.
Yamaha=Android
Mercury=iphone
All my boats are old and my fail safe on $15,000 out boards motors is simple, it's premix...
I have an Oil injection system on my Merc Mod VP 270.
My mechanic took me aside when I bought it new and said; Better to mix your oil and gas yourself!
Watching 7 minutes of all the things that can go wrong?
Just sayin"
Haha, yes it's like the old VRO pumps that very rarely oiled!
sounds like an expensive problem reguardless of what I do. Why not go old school and just mix it with the gas? End of all these problems.
Some engines you can, and thats not a bad idea, but some engines you can't do that on, and then its not a good idea ;)
Carburated Engines: Its a trade off. I have had experience with both mixing and injecting. I'll admit I do worry if the injection will fail. Mixing is ok but it uses a lot more oil thus smokes more. The 50:1 mix is what's required at max RPM so premixing gives the engine max oil all the time, injection provides variable lubrication on demand when needed, not much lubrication is required at idle speed.so at lower RPMs less oil is required which is what the injection system does resulting in a cleaner burn, faster starts, better engine performance and very low smoke compared to premixing. The spark plugs dont take a bath either.
When properly installed...the Yamaha system is pretty reliable and easy to maintain and easy to eliminate, it's a personal choice .
Ou
massive roach bro... LMAO
such nasty equipment....the not so, good ole days
Great video thank you!