Link to O-ring you need (M3x36 Viton): amzn.to/3RqKyh1 (Sorry its a huge pack, I guess you'll have to find some friends with optimaxes and fix their oil leaks.) Possible alternative in case that one is out of stock: amzn.to/3P1ufUk (This link is an affiliate link, which means I will earn a commission if you choose to purchase from this link, that happens at no additional cost to you, and helps me make videos like this one)
Was that M3 X 36mm ID or M3 X 36.2mm ID. I am in Australia and I have unburnt oil dripping out when I tilt up my Optimax 150. I have checked on the hoses for poor connection and the one that's connected to the block is has a loose cable tie but no oil leaking there. I am guessing it is the pump.
I have a Nissan 90HP Direct Injection - TLDI. I have read its the same pump as the Optimax and Mine has a slow leak. Will be trying this. Thank for posting!
After disassembling/inspecting my leak was caused from a crack in the brass piston (the one which came off in the video). Make sure you insect that part! If it has a crack and is leaking replacing the o-ring will do nothing to prevent air bubbles entering the system and potentially causing lack of lubrication/major failure!
Priming process is via dealer OR, turn key on and within 10 seconds, move throttle N to F 3-5 times. You should hear the oil pump clicking and fuel pump coming on. Could last 30 seconds to 1 minute ish. Note: this puts your motor back in “Break In” mode and it’ll use double the oil for 2 hours.
I would be hesitant to skip the priming, worst case you use a little extra oil for a while and foul plugs, best case it bleeds out any air that got into the system while it was open to change the o ring
Ugh they updated the product page. It is supposed to be a M3x36mm ID o-ring, the link takes you to a m1x1.5 or something. Try this link instead: amzn.to/3RqKyh1
This is the only seal I am aware of that will cause a leak, but there are other small o rings on each piston that could cause it to not pump oil. I haven't seen those cause an issue yet though
Since the oil tank is under pressure this unit is playing a role of valve to allow compressed oil to go thru output so it is not a pump it is a one wY controlled valve to open and close oul supply
Close. There is air pressure fed into the remote oil tank to keep the primary oil tank full, with a 2psi check valve to make sure the pressure does not get too high, but the actual oil pump is an electronic solenoid pump that pumps oil regardless of there being pressure in the system anywhere. If it relied purely on the pressure in the tank, the engine would starve for oil at startup or any time the oil tank was opened to fill. You can disconnect the air line, remove the remote reservoir, and still run the engine without issue until the primary oil tank runs dry, or run the prime procedure with a scan tool or using the onboard method to cycle the pump with the engine off and no pressure anywhere in the system. However, that slight positive pressure in the system could be a major factor in the o-ring in the pump leaking as it ages.
Uhhh, still no luck finding the o-rings. All the shops want to sell you a 600.00 new oil pump! IF an oil pump goes bad, does it beep and let you know so you do not have catastrophic failure?
No warning on if the pump stops pumping. It is a relatively robust design, being a solenoid pump, but with that being said, it is not going to let you know if something does go wrong. As far as finding o rings, I commented a while back about another source: Mcmaster Carr. They sell everything on the face of the planet, and a few things that haven't made it here yet. One of these 2 packs should do what you need, the cheaper one only has 5 o-rings, and seems to be a little different from the description, as it says there is a shelf life, cure date and stuff, so I'm not sure if thats a more milspec type situation, or if it is a different type of material. Still says Viton so it should be the same stuff, just perhaps held to a higher standard? www.mcmaster.com/1295N563 www.mcmaster.com/9263K315
There are some other spots it could leak from, hoses are always a suspicion, or if you can see it coming from around where the o-ring area is, could it be you didn't get it quite seated properly?
If you pull the cowl, looking from in front of the engine (if you were kneeling on the boat), the pump has been on the bottom left hand side of the engine, almost under the lower cowl on every opti I've worked on, there could be a bizzare one out there thats in a different spot, but thats where I've always seen em.
I had a small leak from the oil pump assembly. The O ring was Ok, but found a longitudinal crack on the solenoid. Why did this happened? Is it a common problem with Mercury 200hp 2.5L EFI? A new pump has to be install?
I haven't seen that happen before, It is possible there was a defect or something, or possibly we will start seeing more fail like that if it is some kind of age or use related failure. Could be the action of the solenoid causes stresses that eventually caused it to crack, or something else, who knows!
A scan tool is the easy way, but some optis can be primed by switching the ignition key to run (Don't start the engine) then very rapidly shift from Neutral to the Forward detent, back to neutral, back to forward somewhere around 5 times in a 10 second timespan, and if you have the cowl off you will hear the oil pump clicking, fuel pump will also come on, and that is a prime cycle, it should run for about a minute, which if the oil reservoir is full it should pump a bunch of oil which will make a glorious blue cloud when you start it, and that also resets the break in timer so it'll be billowing smoke for a few hours as it drastically increases the oiling rate.
I'll have to refresh my memory on the islandia, I've worked on a few of those, replaced an engine on one that failed from an oil line popping off. If I recall they use a mechanical pump, not this style optimax solenoid pump, although I believe there was a retrofit kit to switch to an electric pump but I'm unsure, it's been a while since I've had one in the shop to put eyes on. Super cool boats, just don't see a lot of them.
Could this be done without fully removing the oil pump from the motor? By just removing the cover while it's still on the motor and replacing the o ring in place?
Yes. I have done it with the bottom cowling still on, while the boat was in the water, its tight, but can be done. I would recommend against trying it while in the water as if you drop something, it goes to the bottom of the lake, but it can be done, preferably do it on a trailer where any lost parts won't vanish for good.
@@trythistv I'm going to do this I'm glad you shared that. I really don't want to disconnect hoses and that fun stuff. Do I still need to prime even if I replace the o ring this method?
Yes. I did it on a 225 pro xs on the engine. It was a tight squeeze but doable. I would not even consider doing it over the water, too many small parts that could easily be dropped, but on a trailer I wouldn't hesitate to pop it apart and replace the o ring
@@trythistv yup I did it o ring was pretty flat took 15min on trailer in shop. Then primed 2x w my diacom. Allen key with round head on it worked great
It should be the same pump from what I can see, The one in this video was off a 150 Optimax, I've worked on a 250 ProXS that uses the same pump, and the exploded diagrams look like the 90 uses the same one, so the o-ring should work on your pump!
@@trythistv thank you . and im trying to prime it after replace the o ring by manually setting motor back to break in mode. Can you please tell me is there anything need to watch out if i do that my self. I just worrry because i dont know if the oil pump working properly after i prime it.
I would find one of the little hoses (outer is the outputs, the big hose in the middle is the input, don't pull that one off) out of the pump and pop it off the nipple, could even do it right on the back of the pump if there is access, make sure its pumping oil out of the nipple, you should also be able to hear and feel the pump running when you do the reset, if you have a nipple off it will be obviously pumping oil out as the pump runs for the prime/breakin reset.
A scan tool is the easy way, but some optis can be primed by switching the ignition key to run (Don't start the engine) then very rapidly shift from Neutral to the Forward detent, back to neutral, back to forward somewhere around 5 times in a 10 second timespan, and if you have the cowl off you will hear the oil pump clicking, fuel pump will also come on, and that is a prime cycle, it should run for about a minute, which if the oil reservoir is full it should pump a bunch of oil which will make a glorious blue cloud when you start it, and that also resets the break in timer so it'll be billowing smoke for a few hours as it drastically increases the oiling rate.
Do you have to do this process anytime you replace oil pump, and is it the same exact way with hot foot installed. I know that's a dumb question but on my tournament last week my boat threw one long beep said low oil warning shut motor and remote off checked my tank still was half full and motor mounted oil reservoir is full as well then I figured to try run motor after checking things out. Started boat idle just fine once I step on hot foot about to get on pad it once again gives me a load long beeeeeeeep and merc'moniter said same thing day was ruined. I had 16.25 lbs in my live well at 9am couldn't drive to my other spots to find 5th😢. Got home there is continuity in the little sensor that's in motor mounted oil reservoir so I figured it has to be the pump so I'm going to replace it and need to double check I do everything right before running boat again thank you
Mcmaster Carr. They sell everything on the face of the planet, and a few things that haven't made it here yet. One of these 2 packs should do what you need, the cheaper one only has 5 o-rings, and seems to be a little different from the description, as it says there is a shelf life, cure date and stuff, so I'm not sure if thats a more milspec type situation, or if it is a different type of material. Still says Viton so it should be the same stuff, just perhaps held to a higher standard? www.mcmaster.com/1295N563 www.mcmaster.com/9263K315
@@trythistv thanks! The ones I got from another site wasn’t correct even though it had all right dims etc. ordered off your link you provided now. Hopefully it’ll be correct this time. Super easy to perform the repair while it’s mounted on the boat. I put it all back on for now and once the new o rings arrive, spend the 5-10 mins to do the repair again.
@@Profishinal Thanks I think I found it it's a 50 pack. Let me know how it works and if you want to sell half the pack I'll buy it from you who needs 50 o-rings lol
Correct, it is a solenoid pump, as far as testing the pump I'm not 100% certain but a voltage pulse should cause it to pump oil, I would think it would be a 12v solenoid but I am not sure about that, and I wouldn't leave voltage applied for more than a quick tap to the connector, likely attaching some clips to the pins, connect negative to negative on a small battery like a lawnmower battery, then tap the positive alligator clip wire on the positive terminal of the battery and see if the pump clicks, more than a quick tap could end up burning out the solenoid coil if it's set up how I'm imagining.
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Link to O-ring you need (M3x36 Viton): amzn.to/3RqKyh1 (Sorry its a huge pack, I guess you'll have to find some friends with optimaxes and fix their oil leaks.)
Possible alternative in case that one is out of stock: amzn.to/3P1ufUk
(This link is an affiliate link, which means I will earn a commission if you choose to purchase from this link, that happens at no additional cost to you, and helps me make videos like this one)
Was that M3 X 36mm ID or M3 X 36.2mm ID. I am in Australia and I have unburnt oil dripping out when I tilt up my Optimax 150. I have checked on the hoses for poor connection and the one that's connected to the block is has a loose cable tie but no oil leaking there. I am guessing it is the pump.
I used a m3 x 36id, this exact one is what is in my order history: amzn.to/47KQPLe
I have a Nissan 90HP Direct Injection - TLDI. I have read its the same pump as the Optimax and Mine has a slow leak. Will be trying this. Thank for posting!
After disassembling/inspecting my leak was caused from a crack in the brass piston (the one which came off in the video). Make sure you insect that part! If it has a crack and is leaking replacing the o-ring will do nothing to prevent air bubbles entering the system and potentially causing lack of lubrication/major failure!
How to test the pump directly without connecting it ti the engine ECU? Is it possbke or not
Priming process is via dealer OR, turn key on and within 10 seconds, move throttle N to F 3-5 times. You should hear the oil pump clicking and fuel pump coming on. Could last 30 seconds to 1 minute ish. Note: this puts your motor back in “Break In” mode and it’ll use double the oil for 2 hours.
And it makes a glorious cloud of blue smoke when you fire it up after priming!
Great video....wish I saw it before my mechanic charged me $1300 to repkace the oil pump...he even said it was probably just the O ring too.
I wonder if he's seen my video. Mercury is real proud of those pumps, or at least their pricing department is!
Excelente ,se o senhor conseguir algum vídeo de trocar reparo válvula frauta do optmax ..faz mas video
If the o ring is replaced while still on the boat without disconnecting the lines would I still have to do the priming procedure?
I would be hesitant to skip the priming, worst case you use a little extra oil for a while and foul plugs, best case it bleeds out any air that got into the system while it was open to change the o ring
I ordered the o-ring you have leaked and it’s not the right one. Got a super small one-ring…
Ugh they updated the product page. It is supposed to be a M3x36mm ID o-ring, the link takes you to a m1x1.5 or something.
Try this link instead: amzn.to/3RqKyh1
Is this the only seal in the whole pump? The only place it could possibly be leaking?
This is the only seal I am aware of that will cause a leak, but there are other small o rings on each piston that could cause it to not pump oil. I haven't seen those cause an issue yet though
Since the oil tank is under pressure this unit is playing a role of valve to allow compressed oil to go thru output so it is not a pump it is a one wY controlled valve to open and close oul supply
Close. There is air pressure fed into the remote oil tank to keep the primary oil tank full, with a 2psi check valve to make sure the pressure does not get too high, but the actual oil pump is an electronic solenoid pump that pumps oil regardless of there being pressure in the system anywhere.
If it relied purely on the pressure in the tank, the engine would starve for oil at startup or any time the oil tank was opened to fill.
You can disconnect the air line, remove the remote reservoir, and still run the engine without issue until the primary oil tank runs dry, or run the prime procedure with a scan tool or using the onboard method to cycle the pump with the engine off and no pressure anywhere in the system.
However, that slight positive pressure in the system could be a major factor in the o-ring in the pump leaking as it ages.
Sorry how is it tested on the engine?
Uhhh, still no luck finding the o-rings. All the shops want to sell you a 600.00 new oil pump! IF an oil pump goes bad, does it beep and let you know so you do not have catastrophic failure?
No warning on if the pump stops pumping. It is a relatively robust design, being a solenoid pump, but with that being said, it is not going to let you know if something does go wrong.
As far as finding o rings, I commented a while back about another source:
Mcmaster Carr. They sell everything on the face of the planet, and a few things that haven't made it here yet.
One of these 2 packs should do what you need, the cheaper one only has 5 o-rings, and seems to be a little different from the description, as it says there is a shelf life, cure date and stuff, so I'm not sure if thats a more milspec type situation, or if it is a different type of material. Still says Viton so it should be the same stuff, just perhaps held to a higher standard?
www.mcmaster.com/1295N563
www.mcmaster.com/9263K315
Worked great on a 2009 EFI 150 I pumped throttle 4 times to activate oil pump prime mode and it was all set thanks for the video
Awesome, glad to hear it helped you out.
Excelente obrigado ..muito bom
I dont know what wrong. But i replace the o ring you talking about. And it still leaking . do you have any ideal ?
There are some other spots it could leak from, hoses are always a suspicion, or if you can see it coming from around where the o-ring area is, could it be you didn't get it quite seated properly?
Exactly where is the pump located?
If you pull the cowl, looking from in front of the engine (if you were kneeling on the boat), the pump has been on the bottom left hand side of the engine, almost under the lower cowl on every opti I've worked on, there could be a bizzare one out there thats in a different spot, but thats where I've always seen em.
I had a small leak from the oil pump assembly. The O ring was Ok, but found a longitudinal crack on the solenoid. Why did this happened? Is it a common problem with Mercury 200hp 2.5L EFI? A new pump has to be install?
I haven't seen that happen before, It is possible there was a defect or something, or possibly we will start seeing more fail like that if it is some kind of age or use related failure. Could be the action of the solenoid causes stresses that eventually caused it to crack, or something else, who knows!
how do you prime the oil pump
A scan tool is the easy way, but some optis can be primed by switching the ignition key to run (Don't start the engine) then very rapidly shift from Neutral to the Forward detent, back to neutral, back to forward somewhere around 5 times in a 10 second timespan, and if you have the cowl off you will hear the oil pump clicking, fuel pump will also come on, and that is a prime cycle, it should run for about a minute, which if the oil reservoir is full it should pump a bunch of oil which will make a glorious blue cloud when you start it, and that also resets the break in timer so it'll be billowing smoke for a few hours as it drastically increases the oiling rate.
@@trythistv How about a mercury 240efi? Islandia bombadier
I'll have to refresh my memory on the islandia, I've worked on a few of those, replaced an engine on one that failed from an oil line popping off.
If I recall they use a mechanical pump, not this style optimax solenoid pump, although I believe there was a retrofit kit to switch to an electric pump but I'm unsure, it's been a while since I've had one in the shop to put eyes on. Super cool boats, just don't see a lot of them.
@@trythistv yes love the boat
Could this be done without fully removing the oil pump from the motor? By just removing the cover while it's still on the motor and replacing the o ring in place?
Yes. I have done it with the bottom cowling still on, while the boat was in the water, its tight, but can be done. I would recommend against trying it while in the water as if you drop something, it goes to the bottom of the lake, but it can be done, preferably do it on a trailer where any lost parts won't vanish for good.
@@trythistv I'm going to do this I'm glad you shared that. I really don't want to disconnect hoses and that fun stuff. Do I still need to prime even if I replace the o ring this method?
Question. Have u have done this with the pump still on the engine ? 250 pro xs
Yes. I did it on a 225 pro xs on the engine. It was a tight squeeze but doable. I would not even consider doing it over the water, too many small parts that could easily be dropped, but on a trailer I wouldn't hesitate to pop it apart and replace the o ring
@@trythistv yup I did it o ring was pretty flat took 15min on trailer in shop. Then primed 2x w my diacom. Allen key with round head on it worked great
@trythistv thanks for video. It saved me so much work and for the o ring link. Great content.
Yes sir! Ball head hex are awesome. Glad the video helped you get it together!
Thanks for sharing. Best wishes.
Good to see you again! Hope you're doing well, and you have a great time with whatever you have planned for the rest of the year!
i have mercury optimax 2 stroke 90 Hp 2009 . do you know if this o ring gonna fit on mine? thank you .
It should be the same pump from what I can see, The one in this video was off a 150 Optimax, I've worked on a 250 ProXS that uses the same pump, and the exploded diagrams look like the 90 uses the same one, so the o-ring should work on your pump!
@@trythistv thank you . and im trying to prime it after replace the o ring by manually setting motor back to break in mode. Can you please tell me is there anything need to watch out if i do that my self. I just worrry because i dont know if the oil pump working properly after i prime it.
I would find one of the little hoses (outer is the outputs, the big hose in the middle is the input, don't pull that one off) out of the pump and pop it off the nipple, could even do it right on the back of the pump if there is access, make sure its pumping oil out of the nipple, you should also be able to hear and feel the pump running when you do the reset, if you have a nipple off it will be obviously pumping oil out as the pump runs for the prime/breakin reset.
@@trythistv appreciated for helping out. Besh wishes
What is the process of priming the pump?
A scan tool is the easy way, but some optis can be primed by switching the ignition key to run (Don't start the engine) then very rapidly shift from Neutral to the Forward detent, back to neutral, back to forward somewhere around 5 times in a 10 second timespan, and if you have the cowl off you will hear the oil pump clicking, fuel pump will also come on, and that is a prime cycle, it should run for about a minute, which if the oil reservoir is full it should pump a bunch of oil which will make a glorious blue cloud when you start it, and that also resets the break in timer so it'll be billowing smoke for a few hours as it drastically increases the oiling rate.
Do you have to do this process anytime you replace oil pump, and is it the same exact way with hot foot installed. I know that's a dumb question but on my tournament last week my boat threw one long beep said low oil warning shut motor and remote off checked my tank still was half full and motor mounted oil reservoir is full as well then I figured to try run motor after checking things out. Started boat idle just fine once I step on hot foot about to get on pad it once again gives me a load long beeeeeeeep and merc'moniter said same thing day was ruined. I had 16.25 lbs in my live well at 9am couldn't drive to my other spots to find 5th😢. Got home there is continuity in the little sensor that's in motor mounted oil reservoir so I figured it has to be the pump so I'm going to replace it and need to double check I do everything right before running boat again thank you
Do you have a link for the o-ring?
Never mind I watched the video. Thanks.
Looks like the one I got is out of stock, this one is a possible alternative amzn.to/3P1ufUk
Do you have another source for the O-rings ? They are out of the V3.00x036 the only one close to it is V3.00x36.5
Mcmaster Carr. They sell everything on the face of the planet, and a few things that haven't made it here yet.
One of these 2 packs should do what you need, the cheaper one only has 5 o-rings, and seems to be a little different from the description, as it says there is a shelf life, cure date and stuff, so I'm not sure if thats a more milspec type situation, or if it is a different type of material. Still says Viton so it should be the same stuff, just perhaps held to a higher standard?
www.mcmaster.com/1295N563
www.mcmaster.com/9263K315
@@trythistv thanks! The ones I got from another site wasn’t correct even though it had all right dims etc. ordered off your link you provided now. Hopefully it’ll be correct this time. Super easy to perform the repair while it’s mounted on the boat. I put it all back on for now and once the new o rings arrive, spend the 5-10 mins to do the repair again.
@@Profishinal do you have the part number I don't seem to be able to find a 36 only see 36.5 on that website. Thanks
@@mikem7683 I bought 9253K315
@@Profishinal Thanks I think I found it it's a 50 pack. Let me know how it works and if you want to sell half the pack I'll buy it from you who needs 50 o-rings lol
Nice video ,so it is a solenoid pump right????
Pls reply
Correct, it is a solenoid pump, as far as testing the pump I'm not 100% certain but a voltage pulse should cause it to pump oil, I would think it would be a 12v solenoid but I am not sure about that, and I wouldn't leave voltage applied for more than a quick tap to the connector, likely attaching some clips to the pins, connect negative to negative on a small battery like a lawnmower battery, then tap the positive alligator clip wire on the positive terminal of the battery and see if the pump clicks, more than a quick tap could end up burning out the solenoid coil if it's set up how I'm imagining.