If you're doing an aftermarket car security system, ensure that it is a high quality unit installed by a an experienced security specialist. I've seen so many videos on No Start cars caused by failing units or incorrect installations. Any security system can be bypassed, what you're buying is time so the thief will give up or go elsewhere.
Isn’t 87a the default position in a 5 pin? Meaning normally without being energized it’s sitting on 87a? So when it energizes, it makes pin 30 and 87 connect. 87a is the default “dead leg” or non energized position that provides power to an output by default. Correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve been doing a lot of research on a couple of projects concerning these relays.
Hi, awesome video! What do you consider to be a heavy duty switch? Should it be 40A as is the relay or should it be bigger? And what about the fuse from the ignition, 40A aswell?
Is it necessary for the relay to have an 87A? I have a relay that has 85, 86, 87, & 30 but no 87A. If I were you use the 87 in this case, would it work just as fine? Also, still a bit confused on where the 86 would be hooked up to 3:54- 4:36
So when you intercepted the starter wire with the solenoid did you cut a small section out (near the starter) and run a thick wire from that cut *to* the solenoid followed by another thick wire *from* the solenoid back to the area where you cut the original section of starter wire out? So you needed about 10ft of the thicker wire, right? Or did you intercept the ignition side of the starter wire inside the dash and then replace everything out to the starter itself? Question 2: if the solenoid failed couldn’t you just unbolt the solenoid thick wires, touch them together, and then turn the ignition? Just wondering for worst case scenario.
There was already an extended wire repair from the ignition switch going to the start solenoid. So I put my starter kill inline there and did a wire repair all at the same time.
On your preferred scenario, does it matter if 87a is on the car side and 30 is on the key side? Also, can you put 86 and 30 together to go to the starter wire or does it have to be that 86 go to ignition and 30 to the starter wire?
What is the brand and model of your solenoid? I’m trying this and all the relays I’ve used click off as soon as current runs through them to starter motor.
Anyone else live in the hood where it was standard practice to take the starter relay or fuel pump relay out of the fuse box and bring it inside for the night after work? 😸 I hate thieves. Getting a hardwired kill switch was Gucci after pulling that relay for months. 😁
No but I know what you mean lol. Thieves are douches. But the real 'professional' car thieves would always bring relays and stuff with them...figure out what was done by owner to keep car from being stolen...and get it driving within minutes. Not talking about the joyride thieves but the ones procuring the chopps
For the second diagram with the alarm module, I understand where the GWA goes to but i don't know where the 86 on the relay goes to. you stated that it goes to the ign on the alarm module but which wire is it? also would i still be able to remote start the vehicle if the relay immobilizer is wired in? thanks in advance. I also have the viper 4806v alarm that doesnt have the built in starter kill. Thanks in advance.
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If you're doing an aftermarket car security system, ensure that it is a high quality unit installed by a an experienced security specialist. I've seen so many videos on No Start cars caused by failing units or incorrect installations. Any security system can be bypassed, what you're buying is time so the thief will give up or go elsewhere.
100% agree security and remote starters need to be installed by an experienced professional.
Isn’t 87a the default position in a 5 pin? Meaning normally without being energized it’s sitting on 87a? So when it energizes, it makes pin 30 and 87 connect. 87a is the default “dead leg” or non energized position that provides power to an output by default. Correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve been doing a lot of research on a couple of projects concerning these relays.
That's correct. What is your concern exactly?
Hi, awesome video! What do you consider to be a heavy duty switch? Should it be 40A as is the relay or should it be bigger? And what about the fuse from the ignition, 40A aswell?
40 amp relay is more than enough. Which pin location are you adding the fuse?
Is it necessary for the relay to have an 87A? I have a relay that has 85, 86, 87, & 30 but no 87A. If I were you use the 87 in this case, would it work just as fine? Also, still a bit confused on where the 86 would be hooked up to 3:54- 4:36
Yes you need 87A (you need to use a 5 pin relay). 86 goes to a true ignition source and needs to be fused.
So when you intercepted the starter wire with the solenoid did you cut a small section out (near the starter) and run a thick wire from that cut *to* the solenoid followed by another thick wire *from* the solenoid back to the area where you cut the original section of starter wire out? So you needed about 10ft of the thicker wire, right?
Or did you intercept the ignition side of the starter wire inside the dash and then replace everything out to the starter itself?
Question 2: if the solenoid failed couldn’t you just unbolt the solenoid thick wires, touch them together, and then turn the ignition? Just wondering for worst case scenario.
There was already an extended wire repair from the ignition switch going to the start solenoid. So I put my starter kill inline there and did a wire repair all at the same time.
On your preferred scenario, does it matter if 87a is on the car side and 30 is on the key side? Also, can you put 86 and 30 together to go to the starter wire or does it have to be that 86 go to ignition and 30 to the starter wire?
I just wire 87A to key side for consistency. 86 should go to ignition for more consistent performance.
5:00
Could a momentary switch be used instead of a toggle or would that be opening the circuit that needs to be closed?
No because when you let go of the switch, it goes back to an "open" state.
What is the brand and model of your solenoid? I’m trying this and all the relays I’ve used click off as soon as current runs through them to starter motor.
Try a Tyco relay rated at 40 amps
Anyone else live in the hood where it was standard practice to take the starter relay or fuel pump relay out of the fuse box and bring it inside for the night after work? 😸 I hate thieves. Getting a hardwired kill switch was Gucci after pulling that relay for months. 😁
No but I know what you mean lol. Thieves are douches. But the real 'professional' car thieves would always bring relays and stuff with them...figure out what was done by owner to keep car from being stolen...and get it driving within minutes. Not talking about the joyride thieves but the ones procuring the chopps
We definitely had to have security systems with immobilizers when I was a kid because car theft was more common then.
For the second diagram with the alarm module, I understand where the GWA goes to but i don't know where the 86 on the relay goes to. you stated that it goes to the ign on the alarm module but which wire is it? also would i still be able to remote start the vehicle if the relay immobilizer is wired in? thanks in advance. I also have the viper 4806v alarm that doesnt have the built in starter kill. Thanks in advance.
86 goes to a "true ignition" wire. I love the 4806v but if you want to remote start, use a combo like the 5X06V.
@@AnthonyJ350 thxs for the fast reply
@@AhJemwangame You're welcome
Where’s the best place to get this kind of thing professionally installed? I find most places don’t do this stuff properly
An experienced install shop that does custom and is willing to show pictures of their wiring.
Ya there’s not a lot of those around my area…
Nowadays they’re all total hacks
@@Treetopflyer777 That's sad to hear. Those type of shops will have the knowledge and parts to give you a clean result.
Great video.
Thanks so much! I know it's a little long winded.
From 10:07 - 10:22 I'm trying to understand what you mean when you say to put another fuse after the battery
I was suggesting every aftermarket device has their own fuse to avoid stressing out a fuse carrying multiple devices.
GPS tracker recommendations?
Compustar Drone (can be wired as a stand alone unit). There's also Amber Alert GPS.