I am going to do the same thing with the Nissan RB30DE (hybrid) engine in my VL Commodore. The keyway in the crankshaft for the drive pulley is worn like that & I'm planning on doing the same repair. I've got an R33 RB25DE drive pulley on the engine because the original RB30E VL pulleys keyway flogged out so it has just been held together with the Liquid metal product for worn keyways. If the R33 Skyline one is still o.k. I may reuse it,if not,the Chinese make an aftermarket aluminium pulley to suit.
hello I have done five cranks in car and all have worked and held up I weld them in on the sloppy side so the key stays in the crank much stronger this way grind back with a right angle die grinder and some sanding need a steady hand
Is this engine still running ok almost a year and a half later? I recently had the same thing happen to my crank nose keyway and was wondering if I should fill the chip like you did or file a larger keyway.
alex ferreira Still running strong and still giving me occasional grief. My timing recently went out and I thought the worst that the key had sheered again. Turned out the tensioner pulley has slipped and jammed, causing the belt to jump a tooth or two. This also caused my points to fuse. I realigned the belt and timing, filed and set the points and he’s running again. The crank gear is still rock solid.
I need to do this... I need to ask though.... I have a Lincoln 225 stick welder & a FLUX125 welder from Titanium. Would you recommend either of these for the job?
Eyal Perelmuter not very familiar with the FLUX125 welder, or the Lincoln for that matter. That said, stick welders do offer better penetration than MIG, so provided you can do it without getting flux inclusions it should be pretty strong.
Exactly what I need to have done. My woodruff key broke, dinged up my accessory pulley and forged crank. I've already got another pulley and new woodruff key. Didn't know it was loose until the timing belt went, had a miss I couldn't get rid of as well, no matter what I did. The cause, poor idle quality for about a year, throwing belts due to valve cover and PS pump leaks. I've got more room to work with on mine... do you think this can be done with the crank in the engine? It's either that or complete disassembly, engine is 60k or so miles, I'd rather not take a chance disassembling it (2 piece block crank is in a cradle.) Throwing together a different engine to run temporarily.
PGTMR2 the only issue I see with doing any welding around an engine is the sparks near possible fuel fumes. My timing went a bit last month & I thought the key had sheared again. Thankfully discovered the tension pulley on the timing belt had moved causing a slipped tooth or two. Reset & tightened everything & the engine is now running the best it has since I got it. Fuel economy even improved to over 10km/l. Never been that “good”. One benefit of removing the crank to do this is you can replace all the bearings in the same process.
PGTMR2 I was worried about removing the crank too. Never done it before. However, the oil seals also needed replacing or I wasn’t passing rego. The front cross-member has never been so oil free. Good luck with however you go about it.
I'm weighing how good the bearings are now vs. how good new ones replaced by me would be :D Factory this engine was tested to 300k @ 8000 rpm, then was torn down, measured, and found to still be in spec. The Japanese fella that owned it before me took incredible care of it, no doubt apologizing and bowing backwards out the door if he even thought of cussing at it. No signs of it ever seeing a drop of water or oil outside of where it was supposed to be. 23-24 years old, heads haven't been off, original seal at the oil pan and where the crank cradle separates. Under the valve covers it's like new, oil pressure is where it should be. If it was a more delicate engine, with higher miles, I'd be more inclined to tear it down.
PacificCircle1 enlarging the keyway in the crankshaft may have been possible, but I didn't have the equipment to do the keyway inside the gear pulley. I had considered the metal putty, but upon discussing with an engine rebuilder, he said it may only last 6-12months due to high torque environment. Max is still running strong.
What I was afraid of. The epoxy I looked at said it was good up to 230 F. I figure that is something it will only heat soak to after a long trip and far away from home. The perfect time for things to break, again.
You'd want to make sure there's no oil or fuel around, even fumes. Welding spark could blow the lot. Hand filing that far into an engine bay would be bad on the back too.
No I didn't. I rarely think of using loctite with anything. Could be worth reconsidering. I'm assuming you meant for the bolt that holds the lower crank gear on.
Damo Vegan yesterday,I filled the gap woth a piece of metal I ground off and stuck it in there with a tiny amount of 660 ...So far, the engine is ok but the pulley has developed some wobble after 20 minutes of driving.
The wobble doesn't sound good. Was the bit of metal meant as a 'key' & a really snug fit? I had metal repair putty recommended to fill in the space that was worn around the keyway. It sounded feasible but I didn't trust its longevity in such a high torque application.
Jucelio Guilhermino it did until mid last year when I noticed a drop in power again. Timing was off and it turned out that the weld metal had crushed inside the gear, rolling the key over again. Rewelded, but now having other issues with the motor.
3dmixer I tried, believe me. My spares place, which are great and incredibly helpful, couldn’t locate a new gear for this engine. I thought it’s common enough, I should have no problems, but nope.
I am going to do the same thing with the Nissan RB30DE (hybrid) engine in my VL Commodore.
The keyway in the crankshaft for the drive pulley is worn like that & I'm planning on doing the same repair.
I've got an R33 RB25DE drive pulley on the engine because the original RB30E VL pulleys keyway flogged out so it has just been held together with the Liquid metal product for worn keyways.
If the R33 Skyline one is still o.k. I may reuse it,if not,the Chinese make an aftermarket aluminium pulley to suit.
Good luck with it. My van is still going, though the timing seems to be lagging a bit now. Hopefully it's nothing major.
Masterfully done sir... I dont wanna do that lol.
Ty. I’m glad I did it but it was a little nerve racking
hello I have done five cranks in car and all have worked and held up I weld them in on the sloppy side so the key stays in the crank much stronger this way grind back with a right angle die grinder and some sanding need a steady hand
I'm having the same problem, think am going to weld the key in the crank .
Should be strong, good luck with it. Just make sure you grind it to get the gear back on. It's a pretty tight tolerance.
Is this engine still running ok almost a year and a half later? I recently had the same thing happen to my crank nose keyway and was wondering if I should fill the chip like you did or file a larger keyway.
alex ferreira Still running strong and still giving me occasional grief. My timing recently went out and I thought the worst that the key had sheered again. Turned out the tensioner pulley has slipped and jammed, causing the belt to jump a tooth or two. This also caused my points to fuse. I realigned the belt and timing, filed and set the points and he’s running again. The crank gear is still rock solid.
A follow up Alex. Max has never run stronger. Since resetting the timing, I replaced the points and his acceleration and torque have been great.
I need to do this... I need to ask though.... I have a Lincoln 225 stick welder & a FLUX125 welder from Titanium. Would you recommend either of these for the job?
Eyal Perelmuter not very familiar with the FLUX125 welder, or the Lincoln for that matter. That said, stick welders do offer better penetration than MIG, so provided you can do it without getting flux inclusions it should be pretty strong.
Exactly what I need to have done. My woodruff key broke, dinged up my accessory pulley and forged crank. I've already got another pulley and new woodruff key. Didn't know it was loose until the timing belt went, had a miss I couldn't get rid of as well, no matter what I did. The cause, poor idle quality for about a year, throwing belts due to valve cover and PS pump leaks. I've got more room to work with on mine... do you think this can be done with the crank in the engine? It's either that or complete disassembly, engine is 60k or so miles, I'd rather not take a chance disassembling it (2 piece block crank is in a cradle.) Throwing together a different engine to run temporarily.
PGTMR2 the only issue I see with doing any welding around an engine is the sparks near possible fuel fumes.
My timing went a bit last month & I thought the key had sheared again. Thankfully discovered the tension pulley on the timing belt had moved causing a slipped tooth or two. Reset & tightened everything & the engine is now running the best it has since I got it. Fuel economy even improved to over 10km/l. Never been that “good”. One benefit of removing the crank to do this is you can replace all the bearings in the same process.
PGTMR2 I was worried about removing the crank too. Never done it before. However, the oil seals also needed replacing or I wasn’t passing rego. The front cross-member has never been so oil free.
Good luck with however you go about it.
I'm weighing how good the bearings are now vs. how good new ones replaced by me would be :D Factory this engine was tested to 300k @ 8000 rpm, then was torn down, measured, and found to still be in spec. The Japanese fella that owned it before me took incredible care of it, no doubt apologizing and bowing backwards out the door if he even thought of cussing at it. No signs of it ever seeing a drop of water or oil outside of where it was supposed to be. 23-24 years old, heads haven't been off, original seal at the oil pan and where the crank cradle separates. Under the valve covers it's like new, oil pressure is where it should be. If it was a more delicate engine, with higher miles, I'd be more inclined to tear it down.
Ha ha all the oil on the cross-member is just rust protection
Could enlarging to the next size key be easier. Metalized epoxy does work, for a while in any case.
PacificCircle1 enlarging the keyway in the crankshaft may have been possible, but I didn't have the equipment to do the keyway inside the gear pulley.
I had considered the metal putty, but upon discussing with an engine rebuilder, he said it may only last 6-12months due to high torque environment.
Max is still running strong.
What I was afraid of. The epoxy I looked at said it was good up to 230 F. I figure that is something it will only heat soak to after a long trip and far away from home. The perfect time for things to break, again.
im gonna attempt this with the crank still in the engine. I'm probrably gonna have to hand file the whoke lot.
You'd want to make sure there's no oil or fuel around, even fumes. Welding spark could blow the lot. Hand filing that far into an engine bay would be bad on the back too.
Dude! Did you make it? I was thinking to just weld the key the fuck on tge crankshaft and get a new teethed wheel
@@mihailpetrovici5044 did it work out? I am thinking of doing what you said.
Did you use loctite 660 before assembly ?
No I didn't. I rarely think of using loctite with anything. Could be worth reconsidering. I'm assuming you meant for the bolt that holds the lower crank gear on.
Damo Vegan yesterday,I filled the gap woth a piece of metal I ground off and stuck it in there with a tiny amount of 660 ...So far, the engine is ok but the pulley has developed some wobble after 20 minutes of driving.
The wobble doesn't sound good. Was the bit of metal meant as a 'key' & a really snug fit? I had metal repair putty recommended to fill in the space that was worn around the keyway. It sounded feasible but I didn't trust its longevity in such a high torque application.
Damo Vegan Yes. The metal was a key i made by filing and grinding steel . It is runnng fine but the wobble worries me.
Is the wobble just in the pulley? It may not be seated fully or the bolts on it a little loose. Have a look maybe?
I going an do my Jeep but I using a Arc welding
An arc welder should definitely get better depth of penetration for strength.
It works ok after 4 years?
Sorry i'm brasilian, my english is fail.
Jucelio Guilhermino it did until mid last year when I noticed a drop in power again. Timing was off and it turned out that the weld metal had crushed inside the gear, rolling the key over again. Rewelded, but now having other issues with the motor.
why didn't you just buy a new gear? They are fairly cheap. Nice work with the crank tho
3dmixer I tried, believe me. My spares place, which are great and incredibly helpful, couldn’t locate a new gear for this engine. I thought it’s common enough, I should have no problems, but nope.
@@DamoVegan in that case you had no choice. Good work
If you ain't got the tools, get a crankshaft 'kit' and replace it.