I have the same problem with my engine's crank nose keyway... I'm wondering if I should fill with JB or instead grind a larger keyway. How's the engine doing today?
Still holding strong even after many drift events, actually. Read through the comments as there were some other good suggestions. The best is probably to carefully weld a bead where the metal is deformed/missing, then file it back to the original shape and put in a brand new key. Finally torque that bolt to spec and use your thread-locker (Locktite)
Jonas Van Horn no one in my area would do that job for me so I ordered a d16 from hmotorsonline for 800. Sad day. Only owned this particular car for a day before I discovered the crank eaten up!
I've been thinking about this since you posted months ago and keep thinking I'll come up with a snappy answer. I know we were worried about too much heat, but in hindsight...that's kinda dumb. If I had it to do again...
I think loctite 660 is only supposed to be used for gaps less than 0.5 millimetres. So they damaged/missing side/extended/widened keyway is much bigger in this video....maybe 3mm? So I'm not sure if 660 is made for this problem tbh. My keyway is similarly damaged and I'm a bit concerned it won't hold since it's a big area/volume.
Okay love the video I'm just wondering on the front end of the video you said to turn the engine around one full Revolution ......Are you saying to turn it by hand THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.........WHAT ABOUT THE TOP ONE CAM PULLEY ??
Good question! After watching again, I guess that’s not very clear. So, yeah, the clip at the beginning of the video was after putting everything together the first time - with the timing belt on - Everything was spinning together. As you learn later in the video though, you shouldn’t have to do that. Things wouldn’t lineup reliably because of the problem you see with messed up key and keyway. Does that make sense?
If you lost the woodruff key (the little half-moon-shaped chunk of metal that holds the pulley in line with the crank), then absolutely get a new one. They’re cheap and you can find them at good hardware stores and auto parts stores. Better still the dealer could probably sell you exactly the right one for cheap. If you’re talking about filling a gap like we had to, you could try it if you’re up for a gamble. If you care about the engine and don’t want to risk it though, a skilled welder could probably build it back up for you and you could carefully file it back and be confident in the repair. In any case though: proper torque and Locktite for sure.
I have the same problem with my engine's crank nose keyway... I'm wondering if I should fill with JB or instead grind a larger keyway. How's the engine doing today?
I would just JB weld it. My car is running very strong still!
Just discovered the same problem but worse. How long did this hold?
Still holding strong even after many drift events, actually.
Read through the comments as there were some other good suggestions. The best is probably to carefully weld a bead where the metal is deformed/missing, then file it back to the original shape and put in a brand new key. Finally torque that bolt to spec and use your thread-locker (Locktite)
Jonas Van Horn no one in my area would do that job for me so I ordered a d16 from hmotorsonline for 800. Sad day. Only owned this particular car for a day before I discovered the crank eaten up!
Why not weld the side of the crank and file out the keyway back to shape?
I've been thinking about this since you posted months ago and keep thinking I'll come up with a snappy answer. I know we were worried about too much heat, but in hindsight...that's kinda dumb. If I had it to do again...
What you do is buy a bigger key and file fit it , easy to do
Potato bread castings, and JB Weld shims. Get 'r done!
loctite 660 is made for this repair
I think loctite 660 is only supposed to be used for gaps less than 0.5 millimetres.
So they damaged/missing side/extended/widened keyway is much bigger in this video....maybe 3mm?
So I'm not sure if 660 is made for this problem tbh. My keyway is similarly damaged and I'm a bit concerned it won't hold since it's a big area/volume.
Okay love the video I'm just wondering on the front end of the video you said to turn the engine around one full Revolution ......Are you saying to turn it by hand THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY.........WHAT ABOUT THE TOP ONE CAM PULLEY ??
Good question! After watching again, I guess that’s not very clear. So, yeah, the clip at the beginning of the video was after putting everything together the first time - with the timing belt on - Everything was spinning together. As you learn later in the video though, you shouldn’t have to do that. Things wouldn’t lineup reliably because of the problem you see with messed up key and keyway. Does that make sense?
noice
Can I say fuck the key and just loctight the bolt into it. Ej22 suburban engine
If you lost the woodruff key (the little half-moon-shaped chunk of metal that holds the pulley in line with the crank), then absolutely get a new one. They’re cheap and you can find them at good hardware stores and auto parts stores. Better still the dealer could probably sell you exactly the right one for cheap. If you’re talking about filling a gap like we had to, you could try it if you’re up for a gamble. If you care about the engine and don’t want to risk it though, a skilled welder could probably build it back up for you and you could carefully file it back and be confident in the repair. In any case though: proper torque and Locktite for sure.
No