Metal Casting at Home Part 138. Vintage Engine Big End Oiler. Ruston Hornsby.

A replacement part for a full size Ruston Hornsby Engine.
This is mounted on the crank. Oil drips into the internal groove and is thrown to the edge by centrifugal force. From here it travels through ports and into the big end bearing.

[@isbcornbinder]

I have a Ruston Hornsby Canadian Elevator Engine. 10.5 liter. Diesel. I recognized that part immediately.

[@tonypike5785]

Nice work

[@boblow2186]

Great job on this. Keeping things going on there’s engines. 👍👍

[@RetroSteamTech]

As always a superb job and what a lovely engine, love to see that running. Cheers, Alan.

[@Smallathe]

Wonderful project and making...:)

[@DavidKutzler]

A challenging casting. Well done!

[@thefixerman1]

Simply brilliant......still! Thank you

[@BrianBoniMakes]

I don't think I've ever seen you use a match plate. My foundry insists on them and I mostly think it's because they are harder to get lost in a busy shop but every once in a while I don't mind making one as I know they won't take the time with the sand like I just watched.

[@myfordboy]

I have done a few matchplates.
It would not work for this part though as those lugs prevent a flat parting line.

[@BruceRobinson-tz8cj]

A great explanation of this type of moulding process. On terms of broken parts, have you thought of 3d scanning such items, assembling said scans in CAD then 3d printing a 'master' pattern and possibly producing 'slave' patterns in resin?

[@myfordboy]

It was quite easy to measure the broken part and print a pattern from my CAD . I have not got on too well with 3D scanning, in fact I have sold the scanner I had.

[@silasmarner7586]

This is the engine to which it belongs - no dangling participles!

[@Handy-Harry]

How long does it takes to cool down?

[@myfordboy]

You can break open the mould after about 10 minutes.

[@bigbar72]

Was petrobond or greensand used?

[@myfordboy]

Greensand

[@bigbar72]

@@myfordboy Thanks a lot.

[@hrxy1]

superb vid thanks