'13 e92 Comp M3 manual..had mine for 10 years! Garage kept. I got it with aprox 30k miles and now have 90k miles. Had to do my Throttle actuators, did them myself. Do my own spark plugs, change all the lubricating fluids (rear diff, transmission, brake fluids) per BMW maintenance schedule. Oil 10w 60 every year or less than 5k miles since I drive it on the weekends. I warm up the engine properly, like drive for 20 mins before giving her a nice beating. On original rod bearings, dont plan to get them changed. Heard on forums of them slipping after getting RBs done, i just dont think opening up the engine and having a mechanic that's in a hurry to change the RBs in a busy shop has the same interest as me with my property. She has never giving me any problems. Going to do more maintenance as time goes on.
You know … you bring up a good point , the RB really need to be done in a shop with patience and care Makes me nervous, should I buy one with RB already done or roll the dice on no history of bearings
@@darrend2035 IMO, if you do buy one that’s been labeled as “rod bearings completed” you HAVE to ensure that sale comes with documentation proving said work, otherwise, I would be very skeptical. I personally felt comfortable with my purchase since the previous owner had just completed a Blackstone oil analysis and all looked good, so I knew the engine was healthy. I then proceeded to immediately perform the RB job after I bought it for peace of mind and “bulletproof-ing” of the car for the long term
I’ve had mine from 94k to 167k miles now. RB’s done right away and kept up with fluid/filters/plug replacements regularly. I’ve had most of the usual things go wrong with mine but I have zero desire to get rid of it and love every drive in it. It is relegated to biweekly drives now, which makes me appreciate it even more after spent away from it. Don’t be afraid but be ready for pricier maintenance. Learn to do it yourself, it’s not bad. 👍🏼
Just picked up my e92 comp 60k miles. thanksfully, RB was done but had to do brake pads, rotors, trans fuild, coolant, oil, brake fuild, battery, TA, VC. Now gonna look into my sway bars and endlinks thanks to the video! Very informative!
@@Sacrifice-Paid Depending on ambient temps it could 8-10 minutes or 15-20 minutes I’ve seen. I personally don’t drive until the engine temp gauge climbs out of the “cold” which is generally 1/4 way to optimal temp. Once passed that 1/4 mark I’ll drive easy (low throttle input and low rpm) until fully warmed to optimal temp then rev it out. (Just make sure your tires, brakes, etc are all warm as well depending on driving conditions) 👍🏼👍🏼
@@legacydriven mmm, interesting, sounds like if I was to invest in buying an E92 M3, it’d have to sit on my drive for at least 5-10 mins b4 going anywhere, which would be a tad irritating, I’ve currently got an E92, but a 2011 330 m sport, auto….., and I’m certainly not 1 of those that just turns the car on then drives, that annoys me when others do that, I say to them, would u get out of bed and run, no u wouldn’t, cos you’d injure yourself, so why do that to ur car 🤷🏻♂️
Haha great analogy! Yeah everything in life generally needs a brief warm up 😆👊🏼 Also, yeah having to let the car warm up for several minutes can sometimes be a bit of a frustration but I always remind people that this is a performance vehicle so it needs more attention and heat to perform optimally. 99% of the time it doesn’t bother me. I just start it up and let it idle for 5-8 minutes then head out if the temp gauge shows ready
Good guide 😎, a few notes though. Oil analysis is only any use for tracking bearing wear if you do it from the 1st oil change onwards of new bearings (with lead/copper bearings). The later tin/alu bearings also have copper underneath the embedding layer, but so far I haven't seen any wear that far through (although possibly to an intermediate nickel layer). All the shells have a steel backing. The embedding layer protects the cranks pins btw, not the rods. The BE ARP bolts are still the S2000 alloy AFAIK, not S625. Realoem shows the same air box for pre LCI and LCI 🤷 Tie rods will rust on high or low mileage cars, I had to heat the ones on my e90 330d with gas to free them off, lol (it's done 145k miles). They were otherwise fine, so no need to replace them for just that. Cars sitting around for a longtime doesn't cause black gearbox oil, it just happens with use. Re leaking shocks, unless it's really bad, you often won't notice it just by driving 😛 Recon diff for just a leaking seal? Seems a bit OTT... Nice M3 you have btw 😎, mine's an alpine white with black 19" wheels, slightly more miles than yours, had it nearly 5 years now (already!).
Ball park, how much did all that maintenance cost? Looking to perhaps get one, but I want to factor the possibility of getting all this done in my budget. I’d almost prefer to get a cheaper one that hasn’t had it all done and make sure it’s done right, than spend more and take someone’s word that all these things are sorted…
Absolutely! I agree on preferring a car that’s been more less “untouched” while still being in good condition. That was the case with this example. I prefer to 100% it was completed, and completed correctly. Ball park (for my example) is about $15k. I chose to handle everything with OEM replacements or better. If some items were questionable I replaced the whole unit. So I’m going for a complete restoration, plus build once maintenance is complete
I'm on my 2nd E9x m3, first.being a 2008 E92 6MT w/ CF roof that i bought with 44k miles....once the maintenance is up to date these cars run like a top. These cars are undervalued when compared to other M cars imo.
Oh nice! Yeah maintenance is definitely key to keeping these M cars at peak performance levels. That’s super important for anyone wanting to buy one. And I agree, they are undervalued!
Awesome! 33k is super low miles. Wow 😮 nice find. Absolutely, maintenance before mods is the correct way to get these cars to optimal running condition for the long term (in my opinion). Especially if you want to minimize any potential issues. Thanks for the support!! 🤝
I've had my 2009 for 5 years, best car I've ever had. Super fun, buy it , drive it, break it, fix it! Also, I'm not sure about my rod bearings. I got it at 88k, has 110k now w/o service history, my mechanic said if they aren't bad at 88k, drive it. I've seen 2 high mileage s65's fail after rb replacement on TH-cam, there is a lot of speculation on the mains failing on high mileage s65's after rb replacement, and if you're going to replace the mains you might as well rebuild ($8500 service with core plus R&R labor, probably atleast $5k in parts if you do it yourself) because you have to pull it out and break down the bed plate. That would definately be a total on my car. Buy the nicest lowest mileage one you can afford, take care of it.
They definitely are special cars for sure! I haven’t heard very many instances of the mains failing, but I’m sure it’s happened! Taking extra care of performance cars like these, especially at higher mileage, is paramount to keep it running strong. Sounds like yours is doing just that. What spec do you have?
@@legacydriven I have an E93 DCT that has pretty much every option, rebuilt title with a not great ds rear quarter repair, mechanically fine. It's great to drive with the top down, and It looks good from 30 feet! The throttle bodies were fresh when I got it, the motor mounts were trashed. Cost less than half clean title retail, couldn't be happier. I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator, which is all that's been done since the motor mounts other than regular maintenance. Speed Academy and Matt Ross channels both had bearing failures after replacement, and M539 Restorations did a s65 full rebuild, he had to get a doner engine because of spun main bearings on the original. I am diligent about staying under 3k until it's at operating temp, and I keep my fingers crossed! The bearings might have been replaced before I got it, I am the 4th owner. I enjoy your videos, keep it up, and thanks for the reply!
@@averyhammonds9348 I appreciate the support! Yeah, I also definitely keep RPM’s low until the engine is up to temp on all my cars. It’s a habit at this point. I suppose any engine can fail due to unforeseen circumstances but I just try and maintain it as best as I can, and drive it to the fullest! This car has been a joy so far 👊🏼
Nice! I did the valve stem seals on my E90 and it went from burning a quart of oil per 800 miles, to nothing!! What are the valve stem seals like on the M3?
Oh wow! Yeah I bet it did burn through oil that fast. I had a similar oil consumption issue on a previous car. Keeping the engine seals maintained is critical to longevity
These cars will hold value. Service book stamps are everything to keep those prices up. Non service history will proper drop the value for resale. Would you buy an E9X M3 with little service history?
Definitely. This car with a stack of Mx records as mentioned, so I wasn’t too hesitant in this buy. I track everything I do so this build will certainly hold its value (although I have no intention of selling anytime soon)
Manual or nothing. Appreciate u getting a manual. I don’t get it. BMW is supposed to be the ultimate driving machine so how can that be with an automatic. No sports or performance car in my opinion should even offer an auto. Manual only. Like the Honda 2000. All gt500s 07 to 14. Vipers. 03/04 cobras etc.
I certainly agree that many sports cars should retain a manual option! I love manual cars, but these new auto/awd versions have their place as their monsters!
"Maintenance before mods" is the realest thing I ever heard when it come to any used vehicle. I wish more youtubers stressed this point.
Absolutely! Thanks, and I agree. To truly appreciate a build like this you have to address the boring stuff first… then go on to the mods.
'13 e92 Comp M3 manual..had mine for 10 years! Garage kept. I got it with aprox 30k miles and now have 90k miles. Had to do my Throttle actuators, did them myself. Do my own spark plugs, change all the lubricating fluids (rear diff, transmission, brake fluids) per BMW maintenance schedule. Oil 10w 60 every year or less than 5k miles since I drive it on the weekends. I warm up the engine properly, like drive for 20 mins before giving her a nice beating. On original rod bearings, dont plan to get them changed. Heard on forums of them slipping after getting RBs done, i just dont think opening up the engine and having a mechanic that's in a hurry to change the RBs in a busy shop has the same interest as me with my property. She has never giving me any problems. Going to do more maintenance as time goes on.
Yeah I understand that. No one will ever care for your car as much as you do. I’ve always said that. Sounds like your E92 is in great shape!
2013 has updated rod bearing …do not think you need to change them soon,but you have to when you reach at least 150.000 miles
@@mubarakalmohannadi5451 Definitely 👍🏼
You know … you bring up a good point , the RB really need to be done in a shop with patience and care
Makes me nervous, should I buy one with RB already done or roll the dice on no history of bearings
@@darrend2035 IMO, if you do buy one that’s been labeled as “rod bearings completed” you HAVE to ensure that sale comes with documentation proving said work, otherwise, I would be very skeptical. I personally felt comfortable with my purchase since the previous owner had just completed a Blackstone oil analysis and all looked good, so I knew the engine was healthy. I then proceeded to immediately perform the RB job after I bought it for peace of mind and “bulletproof-ing” of the car for the long term
Love the e92 M3. Best M car ever. Looks spectacular on the 18” gunmetal wheels.
Thanks! Appreciate it 👊🏼
I’ve had mine from 94k to 167k miles now. RB’s done right away and kept up with fluid/filters/plug replacements regularly. I’ve had most of the usual things go wrong with mine but I have zero desire to get rid of it and love every drive in it. It is relegated to biweekly drives now, which makes me appreciate it even more after spent away from it. Don’t be afraid but be ready for pricier maintenance. Learn to do it yourself, it’s not bad. 👍🏼
Wow seems like you’ve really enjoyed yours out on the road! That’s a lot of miles. Proper maintenance is absolutely key
Just picked up my e92 comp 60k miles. thanksfully, RB was done but had to do brake pads, rotors, trans fuild, coolant, oil, brake fuild, battery, TA, VC. Now gonna look into my sway bars and endlinks thanks to the video! Very informative!
Congrats on the E92! What spec??
Glad the video helped you 🤝 and yeah, definitely check the suspension parts 👍🏼
Well done video
I have a 2013 e93
Really fun car to drive but did have a host of things go only 39,000 miles
Thanks! Yeah, issue can happen like any other car. Maintenance is care is certainly key
Nice M3 love the grey on grey combo.
I have an M3 myself and this video is very concise.
Thanks and looking forward to more m3 content
Thanks! I appreciate it 👊🏼 more content coming soon!
A proper warm up routine is the key! Don’t exceed 3K RPM until the oil light says “Yes”, then RIP IT! I have a2011 E 93 Alpine and I’m Happy!
Proper warm up procedure is certainly critical to longevity! I agree 👍🏼
How long is the warm up process?
@@Sacrifice-Paid Depending on ambient temps it could 8-10 minutes or 15-20 minutes I’ve seen. I personally don’t drive until the engine temp gauge climbs out of the “cold” which is generally 1/4 way to optimal temp. Once passed that 1/4 mark I’ll drive easy (low throttle input and low rpm) until fully warmed to optimal temp then rev it out. (Just make sure your tires, brakes, etc are all warm as well depending on driving conditions) 👍🏼👍🏼
@@legacydriven mmm, interesting, sounds like if I was to invest in buying an E92 M3, it’d have to sit on my drive for at least 5-10 mins b4 going anywhere, which would be a tad irritating, I’ve currently got an E92, but a 2011 330 m sport, auto….., and I’m certainly not 1 of those that just turns the car on then drives, that annoys me when others do that, I say to them, would u get out of bed and run, no u wouldn’t, cos you’d injure yourself, so why do that to ur car 🤷🏻♂️
Haha great analogy! Yeah everything in life generally needs a brief warm up 😆👊🏼
Also, yeah having to let the car warm up for several minutes can sometimes be a bit of a frustration but I always remind people that this is a performance vehicle so it needs more attention and heat to perform optimally. 99% of the time it doesn’t bother me. I just start it up and let it idle for 5-8 minutes then head out if the temp gauge shows ready
Good guide 😎, a few notes though.
Oil analysis is only any use for tracking bearing wear if you do it from the 1st oil change onwards of new bearings (with lead/copper bearings).
The later tin/alu bearings also have copper underneath the embedding layer, but so far I haven't seen any wear that far through (although possibly to an intermediate nickel layer). All the shells have a steel backing. The embedding layer protects the cranks pins btw, not the rods.
The BE ARP bolts are still the S2000 alloy AFAIK, not S625.
Realoem shows the same air box for pre LCI and LCI 🤷
Tie rods will rust on high or low mileage cars, I had to heat the ones on my e90 330d with gas to free them off, lol (it's done 145k miles). They were otherwise fine, so no need to replace them for just that.
Cars sitting around for a longtime doesn't cause black gearbox oil, it just happens with use.
Re leaking shocks, unless it's really bad, you often won't notice it just by driving 😛
Recon diff for just a leaking seal? Seems a bit OTT...
Nice M3 you have btw 😎, mine's an alpine white with black 19" wheels, slightly more miles than yours, had it nearly 5 years now (already!).
Thanks for watching 👍🏼 Sounds like you have a lot of experience with this platform. I appreciate the insights 👊🏼
While you changing your valve cover gasket change the Vanos covers also.
Great recommendation 👍🏼 thank you
It would have been a good idea to replace the vanos covers while doing the valve cover gaskets. The factory plastic covers get brittle and can unclip.
Absolutely, agreed 👍🏼 there are a few additional items I want to address moving forward. I appreciate the input 👊🏼
Ball park, how much did all that maintenance cost? Looking to perhaps get one, but I want to factor the possibility of getting all this done in my budget.
I’d almost prefer to get a cheaper one that hasn’t had it all done and make sure it’s done right, than spend more and take someone’s word that all these things are sorted…
Absolutely! I agree on preferring a car that’s been more less “untouched” while still being in good condition. That was the case with this example. I prefer to 100% it was completed, and completed correctly. Ball park (for my example) is about $15k. I chose to handle everything with OEM replacements or better. If some items were questionable I replaced the whole unit. So I’m going for a complete restoration, plus build once maintenance is complete
I'm on my 2nd E9x m3, first.being a 2008 E92 6MT w/ CF roof that i bought with 44k miles....once the maintenance is up to date these cars run like a top. These cars are undervalued when compared to other M cars imo.
Oh nice! Yeah maintenance is definitely key to keeping these M cars at peak performance levels. That’s super important for anyone wanting to buy one. And I agree, they are undervalued!
I just got a 2011 E92 M3 with 33k manual! … like you said.. first is maintenance.. then mods.. following!!!
Awesome! 33k is super low miles. Wow 😮 nice find. Absolutely, maintenance before mods is the correct way to get these cars to optimal running condition for the long term (in my opinion). Especially if you want to minimize any potential issues. Thanks for the support!! 🤝
I've had my 2009 for 5 years, best car I've ever had. Super fun, buy it , drive it, break it, fix it! Also, I'm not sure about my rod bearings. I got it at 88k, has 110k now w/o service history, my mechanic said if they aren't bad at 88k, drive it. I've seen 2 high mileage s65's fail after rb replacement on TH-cam, there is a lot of speculation on the mains failing on high mileage s65's after rb replacement, and if you're going to replace the mains you might as well rebuild ($8500 service with core plus R&R labor, probably atleast $5k in parts if you do it yourself) because you have to pull it out and break down the bed plate. That would definately be a total on my car. Buy the nicest lowest mileage one you can afford, take care of it.
They definitely are special cars for sure! I haven’t heard very many instances of the mains failing, but I’m sure it’s happened! Taking extra care of performance cars like these, especially at higher mileage, is paramount to keep it running strong. Sounds like yours is doing just that. What spec do you have?
@@legacydriven I have an E93 DCT that has pretty much every option, rebuilt title with a not great ds rear quarter repair, mechanically fine. It's great to drive with the top down, and It looks good from 30 feet! The throttle bodies were fresh when I got it, the motor mounts were trashed. Cost less than half clean title retail, couldn't be happier. I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator, which is all that's been done since the motor mounts other than regular maintenance.
Speed Academy and Matt Ross channels both had bearing failures after replacement, and M539 Restorations did a s65 full rebuild, he had to get a doner engine because of spun main bearings on the original. I am diligent about staying under 3k until it's at operating temp, and I keep my fingers crossed! The bearings might have been replaced before I got it, I am the 4th owner.
I enjoy your videos, keep it up, and thanks for the reply!
@@averyhammonds9348 I appreciate the support! Yeah, I also definitely keep RPM’s low until the engine is up to temp on all my cars. It’s a habit at this point. I suppose any engine can fail due to unforeseen circumstances but I just try and maintain it as best as I can, and drive it to the fullest! This car has been a joy so far 👊🏼
thank you for this video very informative
Glad it was helpful! You’re welcome
The crank hub issue with the s55 is nowhere near as frequent as the s65 bearings, try again
Sure. I was just offering general references for the audience to keep in mind when looking for their next M car. That’s all 👍🏼
i own an e93 335i comming from an e46 325ci theyre not horrible to own but they do have issues at times
Awesome! And yes, these M cars (especially the older one now) need attention to maintain them properly. If so, they’ll treat you right 🫡
Nice! I did the valve stem seals on my E90 and it went from burning a quart of oil per 800 miles, to nothing!! What are the valve stem seals like on the M3?
Oh wow! Yeah I bet it did burn through oil that fast. I had a similar oil consumption issue on a previous car. Keeping the engine seals maintained is critical to longevity
So you did rod bearings and left main bearings alone?
Hes gonna get the eventurii intake forrrr sureee haha grreat video!
Haha thanks! And I can neither confirm nor deny the intake choice 🤓
These cars will hold value. Service book stamps are everything to keep those prices up. Non service history will proper drop the value for resale. Would you buy an E9X M3 with little service history?
Definitely. This car with a stack of Mx records as mentioned, so I wasn’t too hesitant in this buy. I track everything I do so this build will certainly hold its value (although I have no intention of selling anytime soon)
@@legacydriven Addictive cars are they not lol. Track cars i get. Nice one mate.
@@DaveJMcGarryAbsolutely! I love this car. Such a fun chassis
Manual or nothing. Appreciate u getting a manual. I don’t get it. BMW is supposed to be the ultimate driving machine so how can that be with an automatic. No sports or performance car in my opinion should even offer an auto. Manual only. Like the Honda 2000. All gt500s 07 to 14. Vipers. 03/04 cobras etc.
I certainly agree that many sports cars should retain a manual option! I love manual cars, but these new auto/awd versions have their place as their monsters!
buy it - 100%
🙌🏼