What was the most valuable tip for you? a. Safety tips b. Cutting and notching Hardie Plank c. Siding layout and Modern design d. When to install siding e. Installation tips Let me know so we can dive a little deeper on the next one!
Just think nice! I like 1x8 ship lap. Especially with that factory stain. Make sure to stain the end grain cuts. I wouldn’t put butyl on the 1x4 diagonal strapping. If you have a leak, it will help keep the 1x4 from rotting, but there will still be a leak. Continuous sheathing and/or continuous underlay will keep any screw leaks from getting tot he interior
One big thing I took away was to caulk the siding to the trim boards as you go, each piece. Trying to run those long beads all at once tend to look like shit.
@@HeirloomBuilders Much nicer finish, and easier to do. I've installed a ton of plank siding of all kinds and never did it this way. OSI isn't easy to work with.
As a homeowner who is having a contractor install HardiePlank siding, this helped my understanding of the process and gave me a few questions to ask before the work gets started. Thanks!
Yes! Finally someone who shows the actual nail size! Everyone was telling me to use finishing nails , I even saw guys installing it and that’s what they where using. They thought I was crazy suggesting siding coil nailer and 2.5” hot dipped nails. Maybe they all do face nailing here but blind nailing is approved. Cheers
I really love it when people comment on here about a better way or cheaper way, I guess DIY and HGTV has made everyone an expert on building. Just get out there in the inclement weather working 10 plus hours a day like most of construction people I know , "I was one of those but am now retired , and construction has been good to me " and then tell me a better and cheaper way. To all the true craftsman out there , I say thank you keep up the good work.
Glenn Carraway 🙏thanks for your support and kind words. Straying too far from conventional building practices will never cost less. I live in a straw bale house, which cost about the same as a normal home (but I logged 70% of the labor hours!)
This is hands-down the best how-to video I have ever seen on any of the building trades. Complete, correct, and well-explained info from a professional. I now feel confident I can install hardieplank.
Man, this has to be one of the best videos on full-house hardie siding installation to be found anywhere. So much information, especially code considerations. Great job, Logan! When you mention an extra 1" of nail depth to account for rigid insulation behind the sheathing, is that insulation in addition to other insulation between the stud bays? Thanks!
I used hardie plank almost 20 years ago. Great product. One tip I learned the product is naturally primered, but I reprimered with a concrete primer over it then spray painted. 20 years later still looks new.
One of THE BEST install detail I've seen on the net!! I 🤔 think you could have and should have made this a one hour training Detail!! Very nice job 👍🙂✊✊
It’s really best practice so no water is sitting on that sill, with the ability of it prematurely rotting the windows out. Another great resource is Matt Risinger. He just did a great video on his personal home using the color plus Hardie siding. Goes into all the details of flashing, boxing out, and you’ll see he even did a rain screen on top of his 2” exterior insulation before installing the Hardie. Matt is truly the gold standard of home building, and building science. Great channel!
Thanks, Ethan! We are using ZipR sheathing on this house, which has 1” foam attached to the plywood sheathing. We will insulate stud bays with R19 batt insulation as well. The rigid foam creates a continuous thermal break, which we have found makes a huge difference in building performance.
At 10:50 it’s said 1” of foam was being installed. I see green Zip sheathing but no rigid insulation. Maybe at 10:50 it featured an uninsulated wall like a garage, or, is the rigid insulation being attached to the backside of the OSB/Zip sheathing?
Hey Justin! This Hardie Plank video doesn't show the foam because its glued to the backside of the green Zip sheathing. Check out this video to see the details...th-cam.com/video/s5muR_bJRg8/w-d-xo.html
I am planning the same zip r6 with hardie on my house. Question, what did you insulate the bays with... I’m debating flash and bat with closed cell and rock wool, or just the rock wool
@@stevenelson6639 go with just rock wool. If you use the zip R6 with epdm wall gaskets and sill gaskets, caulk all the penetrations, you will be super air tight and not need the spray foam flash in the stud bays. See our video about 100% TIGHT: FRAMING Tips | Best Insulated Houses
Also, for the sake of keeping the OSB from disintegrating, apply some fluid applied to the bottom edge of the sheathing and up a minimum of 4" above F.F.. Also keeps the wind driven rain from migrating to the inside of the house...
I know this is old... I love my fiber shears but actually the easiest, cleanest way to cut hardie is by scoring both sides with a utility knife and snapping it. Clean and easy.
Our subs started cutting the planks with an electric ( I believe) nibbles. No mess, no noise. Takes out a 1/4 inch gap. Quick. One warning....when planking around dormer, keep the plank at edge at least an inch above the asphalt roofing shingles. My plank edges started wasting off at about 10 years from the movement and soaking from rain water. Cut the edges off, put on a pvc edging and caulking it very well. Has stopped the “rotting” of the edges of the Hardie . plank. JoeB JoeB
You should have mentioned the clamping spacers . The siding is heavy; it makes all the difference with the installation. I use water proof cement board screws for problem areas rather than nail gun.
Great example on how to hang siding. Especially the cost benefit analysis of the pre-finished vs non finished to be painted system. The only thing I noticed was the was the bottom of the shear wall. I would have went with either a slightly increased slab size allowing the zip to be brought down flush with the concrete slab and allowing u to use the Liguid Flash system to seal the base of the wall to the slab, then with the .5 inch overhang of the bottom siding panel it would cover the zip.
Good points. We intended to have a full 1-1/2" lip to set our ZipR6 and get flush with foundation edge, but we miscalculated how much of the joint between slab and perimeter stem wall would show (not be covered by baseboard). We'll get it on the next one! I'm excited to use Liquid Flash on that intersection.
Excellent discussion of the details. Very few builder/contractors are as meticulous and thorough as you are. One suggestion: seal the lower edges of the ZIP OSB with that liquid flash stuff.
Color plus takes longer to handle, longer to install (you have to use special tools to not make a mess specially when it rains like if you live in Seattle or similar areas), it's a pain to work with (because you have to be sooo careful to not mess the paint) This is why any contractor with experience will charge you more for installing it. Material costs more (approx 42% more)... Also you can't prime properly the long visible cuts (windows, doors, angled roof lines, etc) so you would have to prime it (BUT WAIT YOU CAN'T BECAUSE YOU NEED TO USE THE SAME COLOR AND YOU CAN'T USE THE TOUCH UP THAT MUCH BECAUSE THEY DON'T GIVE YOU THAT MUCH AND ALSO IT'S NOT DESIGNED FOR THAT BECAUSE IT'S NOT EXACTLY THE SAME COLOR, IT SHINES AFTER A FEW WEEKS so you can see the difference) So from experience... stick to regular siding and paint it. Anyone who doesn't charge properly will install it like regular siding and with all the touch ups and not primed sections will leave a mess (not visible at the beginning BUT JUST WAIT A FEW MONTHS AND YOU'LL SEE)
Hardie also makes a color match flashing piece that can be purchased to slide behind the joints of siding. The benefit is that the gap has the same color as the siding and there’s no cutting of material since it’s an engineered piece.
Nice video! Hey if you want a much, much, MUCH easier way to cut Hardie Plank Siding, use a laminate floor cutter like Crane Tool's laminate cutter. It literally shears that plank CLEAN in a second. No dust, no mess, no masks.
Here in Australia, I have installed Hardie Plank on hundreds of houses throughout my building career we used the external corner clips that are supplied instead of what you are doing here your method here looks like it is time consuming compared to installing the corner clips.And they also supplied internal clips as well.
Thank you for teaching me the essentials "DiY", I have an old house and it needs some TLC, specially the sofit, fascias and of course the siding. You have explained step by step and now I have a better understanding about the whole project. What a Fantastic video!! thanks again.
I have been cutting hardie products DUST FREE for many years no mask. Just dedicate a circular saw + tile diamond blade. 1/4 copper tube for water shot at blade and small valve with vinyl tube for water. Have a garden hose nearby give a quick rinse before install if desired. Same saw works great on stone marble granite. Blade lasts forever.
Awesome video on Hardie siding. This is even better than what Hardie has put out and makes more sense. The soffit trim board is a great idea and looks nice. It makes future painting of the soffit much easier as you don’t have a zig zag line to trim paint against. Great job!!
James Oosterbaan thank you! I thought it would help to have some installation, layout, and general good practice tips as well as the basic install guidelines so people don’t have to search all over the place to figure out how to install this in the real world.
when dealing with prepainted siding, i would recommend to keep the plastic wrap on it when making a cut, and don't ever let the dust to drop on the paint! I can see a ton of dust spots on the walls in this video which make this job not as clean as it should be. if you let the dust to sit on the prefinished siding for even a moment you will not be able to get rid of the discoloration. i know people that ended up painting the siding because dust embedded itself into paint.
Thanks, great video on this. I had a contractor start installing this siding. Seems to have been doing an adequate job, but pretty much stopped work a couple of months ago so looks like I will need to get someone else on the job.
I used a 10" miter saw with a fiber cement blade. In retrospect a regular 7" skill saw with a fiber cement blade Would have been less expensive and easier with just as good results. Positioning the board on the miter saw for the cut placement took time and more work.
@@HeirloomBuilders I did get square cuts. I have the same type of respirator you mentioned. Used it this week sanding texture off my kitchen ceiling. Cutting Hardie Board doesn't sound so bad now after sanding stippled ceiling texture for the past two days.
I know this is an older video but it was very informative, thank you! Wish I had seen it sooner. Builder just installed Hardie prefinished black board and batten and it looks beautiful except for all the construction dust that no one can get off yet, including scrubbing with soap and water and using simple green. And of course it shows so badly because it's black. Do you have any tips for getting construction dust (from the fiber cement) off the Hardie?
Another alternative for cleaner air would be to use a high CFM fan, like a negative air fan you to keep the dust down or away from you. The sound issue may be bothersome, but it works great if the wind isn't countering the direction you are pushing it towards. I wish I had this when I installed my lap siding a few years back, just now getting onto the gables and this fan rocks! I chose it because it is easy to adjust or compensate by tilting. Fry Reglet extruded aluminum vent looks far superior to any soffit vent and especially JH vented soffit board...as well stick with JH blades by Diablo, the cheaper knock offs you find by Avanti are absolute junk. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y7VXWP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found the installation tips to be the most helpful. All in all this was a good video. The cinematography and sound were good and the knowledge and experience provided were excellent. Honestly i'd say to just leave out the frat boy silliness in future videos and keep doing everything else then I may subscribe and regularly watch more content.
Well done, great video! I have installed Hardi-Plank on projects in the past and know the product. Your video has great tips that most miss, including myself. Just subscribed, looking forward to watching your other videos!
EXCELLENT video. Makes preparing my tool/material list prep much more efficient so thank you. I’m sure I will have this video q’ed on my iPad when I start. Subscribed 👍. Ps....You kinda look and sound like Mike from the History channel show American pickers. Strong resemblance. Maybe? Sure sound like him.
Hardie plank may be fire resistant but will burn up completely if the fire is hot enough. A lightening strike on a home about 2 weeks from CO jumped from an aluminum ladder left over a weekend by a sub against the home. Before the fire dept could get on site ( volunteer station 6 miles from the house) the house was apparently too far gone. Nothing left of the Hardie plank except ashes. JoeB
Great job on this video! Very thorough and easy to follow. I helped out with a big Hardie siding project at my brother's home and I'm considering doing my own house. I learned several things in your video that I wish I would have known then ( diamond blades, flashing, outlets, lighting, pre-painted, etc.) We're planning to install new windows and might just do new siding and foam insulation at the same time, Thanks for a quality video!!!
If you butt that stuff up tight to anything it will expand and become wavy. Nail it with a 2 “ roofing nail hot dipped , if you can find them. Flashing looks like crap over windows, pre painted will look 100% better, don’t think you are going to paint it because it won’t hold paint on factory paint. Protect joints with a piece of felt paper, caulk joints yearly, yes yearly.
That's false information. Hardie does not expand and contract. You must be thinking of a different product brand like Allura or Nichiha. The walls behind the siding can definitely expand and contract through, and if 1/8th gap is not left against trim the walla expansion can cause a board to bow.
I know what I put on my house, the painter used spackel on joints on north side of house, maybe the spackel expanded but it’s a little noticeable, I did not end my joints on studs.
Pretty much every Aussie and NZ builder watching this are laughing at the rest of the world thinking that this is the bee's knees. We've had to put up with this crap for decades and it has never improved. Hardies have never faced up to all the people they've killed. Our architect won't specify this crap, it had cost him too much on failures. Only used for budget low end housing here.
You did a good job on installing this product, you have given it every chance to be successful. The problem is the ammount of shitty builders in AU/NZ who dont take the time to install properly.
@@HeirloomBuilders en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Hardie_Industries And that is just the start. Hardies have currently lost an appeal over 1000 leaky homes in NZ, the parent company is trying to be excluded from the lawsuit as they know the NZ company is unable to meet the likely liabilities. Ministry of Education have also taken them on for widespread failure of school buildings.
11:55 - applying the sealant backwards - should be pushed into gap, not dragged across the top. Dragging will always leave air pockets that become gaps along the seams, allowing water ingress.
just another guy I’m not sure I know what you mean. We filled the entire caulk joint, avoiding smearing with a finger joint. We caulk each course as we go to make sure that the caulk gets all the way up the plank instead of caulking it all at the end.
Logan, I’m getting ready to build. I learned so much from your expose here on Hardie. Super great job! How do I ensure my builder knows his stuff or his subs can hit all the installation dos and don’ts? We will be using Artisan. Something to consider with the color plus for sure.
BornToFly make sure your contractor is committed to following the manufacturers guidelines for installation (which is laid out in this video) and available on Hardie’s website. You’ll have to check to make sure they’re doing things right during the first day of install and photograph any concerns you have so you can hold them accountable if they don’t seem to understand. remember to be cool about it and bring up issues immediately with your contractor so they can fix things before it’s too costly. Most important things are proper nails, spacing for caulk between boards and at windows and doors, adequate siding overlap and sealing the cut ends.
HeirloomBuilders thank you. I am trying to learn what to focus on and your presentation mirrored the Hardie online instructions. I was very impressed. We break ground in the next couple of weeks so there’s time to learn more. Thanks again.
You point about siding butting up on trim is just very smart. Anybody know.. In Florida Building Codes for a minimalist small build... If I use ONLY 4x8 hardie for exterior 1/2 inch sheathing/siding over a vapor barior .. do I need any additional sheathing/siding or can that be my finished exterior and meet code? What about over metal stud exterior walls where my interior walls will be horizontal 1/2 inch shiplap?
Thanks for this very informative video. As for for safety I noticed facial hair under your respirator. One cannot get a good protective seal with facial hair...Your respirator seems like it works this way, but it does not protect you fully. You are still at risk for silicosis. To test the fit - Put your respirator on, block the filters with your hands ( remove the soft covers to get to the actual cartridge ) and inhale.....your mask should collapse inward. If you can feel the air move in from the edges near the facial hair and you do create a vacuum your mask is not fitted correctly. At work we had to get fit tested every year by our EH&S department. Taking the same careful approach to respirator safety as Flashing and waterproofing is well advised.
Raymond my understanding is that the 50 year applies to the product as a whole, the 15 year warranty is just the paint finish. If you paint it again after 15 years, it should last 50 years or longer
Love the video! I was doing some research on the product and there are some major issues with expansion in heavy frost zones like Minnesota. Do you have harsh winters and if so are you having any fading, expansion, or "rot" issues with Hardie? Just trying to separate the poorly installed material versus well installed material and what the real issues are.
Hardie won’t expand and contract unless it gets saturated, from what I understand. Just make sure to leave a 1/8” gap between butt joints and trim, caulk it, and you should be good to go! If you butt the planks together tight, then water will get into the “end grain”, causing it to swell, and then the joint will buckle. Hardie will fade over time, but it has a much longer life than site applied paint. Rot occurs where there are unpainted surfaces that are exposed to moisture. Make sure to leave a gap above window trim, roof to wall intersections, etc and paint those edges with acrylic latex primer to prevent rot.
Well you need to use scab outs cuz if moisture or water ever gets behind there how does is drain I inspect homes and have seen wall rotes out because that
That’s definitely a good idea. We’ve never gotten the framed wall so perfectly flat that siding created an absolutely tight water seal against the sheathing. I’m confident that with lap siding, there’s enough small Gaps between top edge of siding and wall for water to drain. Ship lap siding and flat panels definitely need a rain screen.
Logan P. Appreciate your video and attention to details and design. What are your thoughts on (A) a rain screen between the siding and WRB, and (B) types of rain screens for walls ?
Rich B Good question. we mostly use a mesh-type rain screen under wood siding, and lime render finishes. We also use them on flat panel installations like board and batten (even if it’s fiber cement) since there’s almost 100% direct contact between WRB and siding with no air space for breathing. I don’t feel it’s absolutely necessary to install a rain screen under lap siding though because the air space underneath each course of siding creates good drying potential. If the project budget can afford it, it’s good practice and relatively cheap insurance! Are you a builder, or just keen on the details?
HeirloomBuilders Thanks for the helpful response. I like building science and examples of real builders, like you, applying different methods depending on regional and budget considerations. I’m an IP/tech lawyer by trade and my primary hobby for the last 20 years has been residential remodeling and design for myself and family. I appreciate pros like you a lot and admire your efficiency and quality application. Keep the great education coming. Mahalo.
Good idea. I'll put it together next time we have a project. Until then, I would recommend using a rain screen behind the hardie panels, center your panels for symmetry, and try to line up the battens with other trim and penetrations to get clean lines and make it look good. And make sure to add z bar flashing at all horizontal transitions and panel breaks.
Question for you. At 10:00, you're discussing the six inch requirement between the bottom of the sheathing and the ground and overlapping the hardie plank 1/2 inch over the sheathing for a drip drip edge. Would you still not want to put some kind of flashing to cover the bottom of the sheathing there? I'm in Virginia and it's super moist here. As a paranoid home-owner, I think I'd rather having something down there to protect from any splash-up or for any moisture running down behind the siding, but I'm not really sure what that would be or what that would look like.
Hayden Braxton great question. If your foundation will be exposed to splash back, then yes. We either “paint” that entire area with Zip liquid flashing, or use treated plywood for the bottom course of wall sheathing. If you have mulch and foundation plantings, the splash will be minimal and dry out before any damage is done. Waterproofing that edge/area is cheap insurance. So I would recommend doing it if you can.
Awesome video! I am just starting to put up a workshop (3500 sq ft, 16 ft walls) .... pad is poured ... and am trying to decided between Hardie planking and LP SmartSide (for a board and batten look). How do you treat the cut edges? For example, the window casing in my case will have a straight cut end. Do you prime and paint it before putting up the siding? If so, what do you use? Same with the siding itself. How do you treat the end cuts (this luck there will not be too many but say when you hit a window)... and on the notched piece above the window)? I can't imagine stopping the project for three coats of paint to dry. Do they (Hardie) have some kind of matching paint finish (looked like you were using some kind of touch up paint)?
James Fiveash I prefer Hardie when budget is tight and minimal maintenance is the highest priority. However, its easier to work with LP smart side since it’s less brittle and easier to cut/drill holes with standard equipment.
How do you replace wood lap board with this product? I have a darn style house with pine lap siding I hate wood peckers and carpenter bees are destroying my sidind.
I bought my house 3 years ago and it was built in 2007. It doesn’t have hardie board but some other fiber cement. It was painted by the builder. This stuff sucks. The ends on the bottom have rotted and broken because of water. They need repainting already. They have a lot of gaps where the boards have shrunk. Then someone used caulking to fill in the holes. They didn’t use anything behind the gaps except for homewrap. I need to replace a few of the bottom ones and have my house painted. I wish I had brick. Even though I like the look of this stuff. It’s just not durable the way they say. Even hardie board ain’t. They do crack. I don’t know if any builders around here that use hardie. They all paint it themselves. Unless they buy it unpainted.
100fredkrueger sorry to hear about that! A lot of installers and builders think fiber cement is immune to rot because it has cement in it. But it’s mostly wood fiber, and needs to be installed with proper flashing and drainage gaps underneath so you don’t get the rotten effect you’re talking about.
Question: you said you used 5/4 corner boards with the siding butted up to it, yet for the gable you installed trim over the siding. What thickness is the gable trim and what does the transition from corner board to gable trim end up looking like?
Omar Cuellar great questions! Gable trim is a 1x4, which comes out slightly proud or flush with the 1” thick 5/4 corner board. We stop/miter the corner board to allow space for the gable trim. You can see it at 7:10 and the finished detail at 12:37
I would build either pre-cast concrete walls if you like Modern design, or Cobb walls if you like the natural building aesthetic to get the fire resistance. If you keep your 50’ of defensible space, you should also be safe from fires with Hardie plank alone (no MgO necessary).
Thanks for the video, I have some gap between the Hardieplank and the foundation blocks which is normal, but since spiders, ants and other bugs are crawling in and out, I like to fill it with expanding foam. is there anything wrong with doing that? thanks
The only problem i see with that is preventing any water that gets behind the siding from escaping at the bottom. But hopefully there’s not enough water to create any real sustained issues. That water / condensation is likely to evaporate and not be a big deal
@@HeirloomBuilders Correct, actually it's very hot and sunny here, however I'm leaving some small gaps every like 10' or so , then the moist and humidity can get out. I can monitor that small area for bugs and stuff, but way better than having a big gap all the way around the building since all ants, spiders and lizards can go and make a safe house in there. thanks
What was the most valuable tip for you?
a. Safety tips
b. Cutting and notching Hardie Plank
c. Siding layout and Modern design
d. When to install siding
e. Installation tips
Let me know so we can dive a little deeper on the next one!
Just think nice! I like 1x8 ship lap. Especially with that factory stain. Make sure to stain the end grain cuts. I wouldn’t put butyl on the 1x4 diagonal strapping. If you have a leak, it will help keep the 1x4 from rotting, but there will still be a leak. Continuous sheathing and/or continuous underlay will keep any screw leaks from getting tot he interior
One big thing I took away was to caulk the siding to the trim boards as you go, each piece. Trying to run those long beads all at once tend to look like shit.
Stan Tuggs good point. And its a pain in the neck doing it after the next course above is already nailed in
@@HeirloomBuilders Much nicer finish, and easier to do. I've installed a ton of plank siding of all kinds and never did it this way. OSI isn't easy to work with.
So that 2.45 per sq/ft price is ONLY the siding right? Not the zip system, trim and sofet right?
As a homeowner who is having a contractor install HardiePlank siding, this helped my understanding of the process and gave me a few questions to ask before the work gets started. Thanks!
Nice! That’s exactly why we made this video. Cheers
same here... i needed to understand the whole process from a-z to also understand the $$$ installation quotes, excellent!!
Yes! Finally someone who shows the actual nail size! Everyone was telling me to use finishing nails , I even saw guys installing it and that’s what they where using. They thought I was crazy suggesting siding coil nailer and 2.5” hot dipped nails. Maybe they all do face nailing here but blind nailing is approved. Cheers
I really love it when people comment on here about a better way or cheaper way, I guess DIY and HGTV has made everyone an expert on building. Just get out there in the inclement weather working 10 plus hours a day like most of construction people I know , "I was one of those but am now retired , and construction has been good to me " and then tell me a better and cheaper way. To all the true craftsman out there , I say thank you keep up the good work.
Glenn Carraway 🙏thanks for your support and kind words. Straying too far from conventional building practices will never cost less. I live in a straw bale house, which cost about the same as a normal home (but I logged 70% of the labor hours!)
Just think we think alike. That’s a great idea to use the liquid flashing around windows! I’ll probably do that from now on.
This is hands-down the best how-to video I have ever seen on any of the building trades. Complete, correct, and well-explained info from a professional. I now feel confident I can install hardieplank.
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it.
Man, this has to be one of the best videos on full-house hardie siding installation to be found anywhere. So much information, especially code considerations. Great job, Logan! When you mention an extra 1" of nail depth to account for rigid insulation behind the sheathing, is that insulation in addition to other insulation between the stud bays? Thanks!
yes they come in panels of 4x8 or some 2x8 etc. 1/2 inch to 2-3 inches thick for the exterior of house, or basements etc
I used hardie plank almost 20 years ago. Great product. One tip I learned the product is naturally primered, but I reprimered with a concrete primer over it then spray painted. 20 years later still looks new.
Sam Spade nice!
One of THE BEST install detail I've seen on the net!! I 🤔 think you could have and should have made this a one hour training Detail!! Very nice job 👍🙂✊✊
Thank you JB!
Laminate guillotine works very well for end cuts. Quick, neat, clean, no dust
nailed it! best James Hardie detail video I've seen, thank you!
Rowan Gratz glad you liked it! Thanks for the feedback 😀
I have never installed a metal flashing over a vinyl window but I will look into that. Great video.
It’s really best practice so no water is sitting on that sill, with the ability of it prematurely rotting the windows out.
Another great resource is Matt Risinger. He just did a great video on his personal home using the color plus Hardie siding. Goes into all the details of flashing, boxing out, and you’ll see he even did a rain screen on top of his 2” exterior insulation before installing the Hardie. Matt is truly the gold standard of home building, and building science. Great channel!
The most informative 15 minute video I’ve ever watched. Thanks!
I appreciate you saying that. Cheers!
Thanks, Ethan! We are using ZipR sheathing on this house, which has 1” foam attached to the plywood sheathing. We will insulate stud bays with R19 batt insulation as well. The rigid foam creates a continuous thermal break, which we have found makes a huge difference in building performance.
At 10:50 it’s said 1” of foam was being installed. I see green Zip sheathing but no rigid insulation. Maybe at 10:50 it featured an uninsulated wall like a garage, or, is the rigid insulation being attached to the backside of the OSB/Zip sheathing?
Hey Justin! This Hardie Plank video doesn't show the foam because its glued to the backside of the green Zip sheathing. Check out this video to see the details...th-cam.com/video/s5muR_bJRg8/w-d-xo.html
I am planning the same zip r6 with hardie on my house. Question, what did you insulate the bays with... I’m debating flash and bat with closed cell and rock wool, or just the rock wool
@@stevenelson6639 go with just rock wool. If you use the zip R6 with epdm wall gaskets and sill gaskets, caulk all the penetrations, you will be super air tight and not need the spray foam flash in the stud bays. See our video about 100% TIGHT: FRAMING Tips | Best Insulated Houses
@@HeirloomBuilders thanks, the more I read about the flash for air sealing I am coming to the conclusion that it’s not required. Appreciate the advice
Also, for the sake of keeping the OSB from disintegrating, apply some fluid applied to the bottom edge of the sheathing and up a minimum of 4" above F.F.. Also keeps the wind driven rain from migrating to the inside of the house...
Juan Martinez great idea!
Juan Martinez great idea!
I know this is old... I love my fiber shears but actually the easiest, cleanest way to cut hardie is by scoring both sides with a utility knife and snapping it. Clean and easy.
Our subs started cutting the planks with an electric ( I believe) nibbles. No mess, no noise. Takes out a 1/4 inch gap. Quick. One warning....when planking around dormer, keep the plank at edge at least an inch above the asphalt roofing shingles. My plank edges started wasting off at about 10 years from the movement and soaking from rain water. Cut the edges off, put on a pvc edging and caulking it very well. Has stopped the “rotting” of the edges of the Hardie .
plank.
JoeB
JoeB
You should have mentioned the clamping spacers . The siding is heavy; it makes all the difference with the installation. I use water proof cement board screws for problem areas rather than nail gun.
Hardie should hire you. Real life experiences versus someone sitting in a cube with video software
Thanks for the amazing detail and pro tips. Well done. Keep up the great American building tradition.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Wanted stucco...didn't like the price...went Hardie Board instead...very happy with the result.
The BEST video on installing JH siding, or any similar product. Well done.
Thanks Shaun! Glad you liked it.
Great example on how to hang siding. Especially the cost benefit analysis of the pre-finished vs non finished to be painted system. The only thing I noticed was the was the bottom of the shear wall. I would have went with either a slightly increased slab size allowing the zip to be brought down flush with the concrete slab and allowing u to use the Liguid Flash system to seal the base of the wall to the slab, then with the .5 inch overhang of the bottom siding panel it would cover the zip.
Good points. We intended to have a full 1-1/2" lip to set our ZipR6 and get flush with foundation edge, but we miscalculated how much of the joint between slab and perimeter stem wall would show (not be covered by baseboard). We'll get it on the next one! I'm excited to use Liquid Flash on that intersection.
Excellent discussion of the details. Very few builder/contractors are as meticulous and thorough as you are. One suggestion: seal the lower edges of the ZIP OSB with that liquid flash stuff.
Great idea. Thanks for the kind words!
Color plus takes longer to handle, longer to install (you have to use special tools to not make a mess specially when it rains like if you live in Seattle or similar areas), it's a pain to work with (because you have to be sooo careful to not mess the paint)
This is why any contractor with experience will charge you more for installing it.
Material costs more (approx 42% more)...
Also you can't prime properly the long visible cuts (windows, doors, angled roof lines, etc) so you would have to prime it (BUT WAIT YOU CAN'T BECAUSE YOU NEED TO USE THE SAME COLOR AND YOU CAN'T USE THE TOUCH UP THAT MUCH BECAUSE THEY DON'T GIVE YOU THAT MUCH AND ALSO IT'S NOT DESIGNED FOR THAT BECAUSE IT'S NOT EXACTLY THE SAME COLOR, IT SHINES AFTER A FEW WEEKS so you can see the difference)
So from experience... stick to regular siding and paint it.
Anyone who doesn't charge properly will install it like regular siding and with all the touch ups and not primed sections will leave a mess (not visible at the beginning BUT JUST WAIT A FEW MONTHS AND YOU'LL SEE)
Fantastic Video. Extremely thorough and informative. Wish it had been around when I re-sided my house with Hardie plank lap siding. Thank You!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The thing I like about this product is its durability and mold resistance
Hardie also makes a color match flashing piece that can be purchased to slide behind the joints of siding. The benefit is that the gap has the same color as the siding and there’s no cutting of material since it’s an engineered piece.
That sounds pretty good. I’ve just been using tar paper scraps if it’s a dark siding or Tyvek pieces to match a lighter color
Nice video! Hey if you want a much, much, MUCH easier way to cut Hardie Plank Siding, use a laminate floor cutter like Crane Tool's laminate cutter. It literally shears that plank CLEAN in a second. No dust, no mess, no masks.
Here in Australia, I have installed Hardie Plank on hundreds of houses throughout my building career we used the external corner clips that are supplied instead of what you are doing here your method here looks like it is time consuming compared to installing the corner clips.And they also supplied internal clips as well.
Thank you for teaching me the essentials "DiY", I have an old house and it needs some TLC, specially the sofit, fascias and of course the siding. You have explained step by step and now I have a better understanding about the whole project. What a Fantastic video!! thanks again.
I have been cutting hardie products DUST FREE for many years no mask. Just dedicate a circular saw + tile diamond blade. 1/4 copper tube for water shot at blade and small valve with vinyl tube for water. Have a garden hose nearby give a quick rinse before install if desired. Same saw works great on stone marble granite. Blade lasts forever.
Doug G that sounds brilliant! What’s the reservoir for water? Vinyl tube hooked up to garden hose?
Just reduce from garden hose and optional hose splitter valve.
Have a small value on dedicated saw to switch on / off between cuts
Lots of good (and useful) info in this video! Made a lot of mistakes on my first Hardie install that I won't make on the next one.
o2boutdoors seems like we all have a learning curve on the first project with Hardie Plank. Glad you found the video helpful. Cheers
I did my home ten years ago looks great ! I love hardy board , I had he same experience with super dust cloud cuts got the right blade easy.
Straight Whitemale glad to hear that! 🍻
Excellent buddy, thanks so much . Congratulations for this video
Awesome video on Hardie siding. This is even better than what Hardie has put out and makes more sense. The soffit trim board is a great idea and looks nice. It makes future painting of the soffit much easier as you don’t have a zig zag line to trim paint against. Great job!!
James Oosterbaan thank you! I thought it would help to have some installation, layout, and general good practice tips as well as the basic install guidelines so people don’t have to search all over the place to figure out how to install this in the real world.
Hardie should pay you to use this video on their site - well done
Thanks! Glad you liked it 😎💰
when dealing with prepainted siding, i would recommend to keep the plastic wrap on it when making a cut, and don't ever let the dust to drop on the paint! I can see a ton of dust spots on the walls in this video which make this job not as clean as it should be. if you let the dust to sit on the prefinished siding for even a moment you will not be able to get rid of the discoloration. i know people that ended up painting the siding because dust embedded itself into paint.
no_one interesting! Thanks for the tip 🙏
Great video. When I get money I will hire you to do my house love how you were sure to do right every detail. Congrats.
Thanks, Emma! Most of these details are easy to deal with. You just gotta make sure to think about them before you get started. Cheers!
Right on time... thinking of doing my home. Your video helped me think and see about it a lot!! Thank you🤙🏼🇲🇽
Andy Chavez so glad to hear it 🍻
Excellent video. Looks and sounds like textbook (or better 😎). Saved me a lot of money and probably future headaches. Thank you! 👍🏻
Thanks! Glad you like it and hope it will help. Good luck, my friend.
Thanks a lot for the cost analysis. It seems like pricing is a national security concern and hard to find.
Justin Way 🤣you’re welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
Best video I've seen on this. New to working with Hardie... Super helpful info. Thanks!
Bryce Petersen you’re welcome! Thanks for watching. Please subscribe for more!
Excellent video. So much good wisdom in here. Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks, Luke! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks, great video on this. I had a contractor start installing this siding. Seems to have been doing an adequate job, but pretty much stopped work a couple of months ago so looks like I will need to get someone else on the job.
I hope you are able to find someone competent to install. Glad you found the video helpful!
I used a 10" miter saw with a fiber cement blade. In retrospect a regular 7" skill saw with a fiber cement blade Would have been less expensive and easier with just as good results. Positioning the board on the miter saw for the cut placement took time and more work.
Bill Miller hindsight is always 20/20, right?! I bet you got some good square cuts though!
@@HeirloomBuilders I did get square cuts. I have the same type of respirator you mentioned. Used it this week sanding texture off my kitchen ceiling. Cutting Hardie Board doesn't sound so bad now after sanding stippled ceiling texture for the past two days.
I know this is an older video but it was very informative, thank you! Wish I had seen it sooner. Builder just installed Hardie prefinished black board and batten and it looks beautiful except for all the construction dust that no one can get off yet, including scrubbing with soap and water and using simple green. And of course it shows so badly because it's black. Do you have any tips for getting construction dust (from the fiber cement) off the Hardie?
Another alternative for cleaner air would be to use a high CFM fan, like a negative air fan you to keep the dust down or away from you. The sound issue may be bothersome, but it works great if the wind isn't countering the direction you are pushing it towards. I wish I had this when I installed my lap siding a few years back, just now getting onto the gables and this fan rocks! I chose it because it is easy to adjust or compensate by tilting. Fry Reglet extruded aluminum vent looks far superior to any soffit vent and especially JH vented soffit board...as well stick with JH blades by Diablo, the cheaper knock offs you find by Avanti are absolute junk. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y7VXWP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Excellent video. Thanks !
I found the installation tips to be the most helpful. All in all this was a good video. The cinematography and sound were good and the knowledge and experience provided were excellent. Honestly i'd say to just leave out the frat boy silliness in future videos and keep doing everything else then I may subscribe and regularly watch more content.
good advice. Thank you. Our latest video about the Solar Kiln is not silly. I hope you like it. th-cam.com/video/rXiOJJQubtM/w-d-xo.html
This video has great insights. The lap siding looks great!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent video! Articulate and detailed.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Wow! I'm so glad I found this video before starting 2morrow. ~~This is THE BEST ~~
Thank you.
Glad you found us! Make sure to subscribe for more. Welcome aboard!
How cool is that, nice one and thank you.
That’s the same color siding we are using ❤️
Trollin since 79 it is such a beautiful color, isn’t it?!
HeirloomBuilders yes I was nervous about the pick but once the Stone was on the front and with the white trim it popped 🙌🏼
Well done, great video! I have installed Hardi-Plank on projects in the past and know the product. Your video has great tips that most miss, including myself. Just subscribed, looking forward to watching your other videos!
Glad it was helpful!
You did a very informative presentation on Hardie Plank Siding.
Diana Blanke thank you for the feedback. I look forward to creating more!
EXCELLENT video. Makes preparing my tool/material list prep much more efficient so thank you. I’m sure I will have this video q’ed on my iPad when I start. Subscribed 👍.
Ps....You kinda look and sound like Mike from the History channel show American pickers. Strong resemblance. Maybe? Sure sound like him.
Glad you found the video so helpful! Thanks for subscribing.
Hardie plank may be fire resistant but will burn up completely if the fire is hot enough. A lightening strike on a home about 2 weeks from CO jumped from an aluminum ladder left over a weekend by a sub against the home. Before the fire dept could get on site ( volunteer station 6 miles from the house) the house was apparently too far gone. Nothing left of the Hardie plank except ashes.
JoeB
Joseph Burkhalter wow! That’s insane
Getting started on my first Hardie siding job, and this was great to see. Just subbed and looking forward to your other videos! Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Good luck on your Hardie project.
That’s the exact color I want. I have an 850 sq ft small home and want to replace my vinyl siding with Hardi plant.
Good idea! This color is much better looking than I anticipated. It will certainly look and feel a whole lot better than vinyl siding!
HeirloomBuilders wish you were here in KY and could so mine. 😁
Great video! Thank you very much for your help.
cmm170526 glad to hear it was helpful for you!
Great job on this video! Very thorough and easy to follow. I helped out with a big Hardie siding project at my brother's home and I'm considering doing my own house. I learned several things in your video that I wish I would have known then ( diamond blades, flashing, outlets, lighting, pre-painted, etc.) We're planning to install new windows and might just do new siding and foam insulation at the same time, Thanks for a quality video!!!
Mike Sanders I’m glad you liked the video. Thanks for the kind words! 😀
If you butt that stuff up tight to anything it will expand and become wavy. Nail it with a 2 “ roofing nail hot dipped , if you can find them. Flashing looks like crap over windows, pre painted will look 100% better, don’t think you are going to paint it because it won’t hold paint on factory paint. Protect joints with a piece of felt paper, caulk joints yearly, yes yearly.
That's false information. Hardie does not expand and contract. You must be thinking of a different product brand like Allura or Nichiha.
The walls behind the siding can definitely expand and contract through, and if 1/8th gap is not left against trim the walla expansion can cause a board to bow.
I know what I put on my house, the painter used spackel on joints on north side of house, maybe the spackel expanded but it’s a little noticeable, I did not end my joints on studs.
Awesome video. Thank you
He is very helpful
I'm a new subscriber and I enjoyed the video. Y'all take care and God bless.
Ron Mack welcome aboard!
Wow great tips and video. Thx!
Paul Ladendorf you’re welcome. Glad you found it helpful👍
Wow! Loved your video
Karen Spencer thanks! Glad to hear that!!!
Pretty much every Aussie and NZ builder watching this are laughing at the rest of the world thinking that this is the bee's knees. We've had to put up with this crap for decades and it has never improved. Hardies have never faced up to all the people they've killed. Our architect won't specify this crap, it had cost him too much on failures. Only used for budget low end housing here.
Is there a class action lawsuit against Hardie for cases of silicosis in Australia and NZ?
No but there are multiple class actions against their faulty products.
You did a good job on installing this product, you have given it every chance to be successful. The problem is the ammount of shitty builders in AU/NZ who dont take the time to install properly.
Ga7cun7sSUCK thank you
@@HeirloomBuilders en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Hardie_Industries
And that is just the start. Hardies have currently lost an appeal over 1000 leaky homes in NZ, the parent company is trying to be excluded from the lawsuit as they know the NZ company is unable to meet the likely liabilities.
Ministry of Education have also taken them on for widespread failure of school buildings.
Great in depth video, been watching it get installed, now I have a real good idea of the process for whenever it's my job
Best of luck my friend
11:55 - applying the sealant backwards - should be pushed into gap, not dragged across the top. Dragging will always leave air pockets that become gaps along the seams, allowing water ingress.
just another guy I’m not sure I know what you mean. We filled the entire caulk joint, avoiding smearing with a finger joint. We caulk each course as we go to make sure that the caulk gets all the way up the plank instead of caulking it all at the end.
@@HeirloomBuilders basically, you should "push" the sealant, not drag. Hard to explain, but the technique in vid is incorrect.
@@justanotherguy9664 thanks for the tip!
@@justanotherguy9664 you must really suck to work with.
Nice, informative video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Logan, I’m getting ready to build. I learned so much from your expose here on Hardie. Super great job! How do I ensure my builder knows his stuff or his subs can hit all the installation dos and don’ts? We will be using Artisan. Something to consider with the color plus for sure.
BornToFly make sure your contractor is committed to following the manufacturers guidelines for installation (which is laid out in this video) and available on Hardie’s website. You’ll have to check to make sure they’re doing things right during the first day of install and photograph any concerns you have so you can hold them accountable if they don’t seem to understand. remember to be cool about it and bring up issues immediately with your contractor so they can fix things before it’s too costly. Most important things are proper nails, spacing for caulk between boards and at windows and doors, adequate siding overlap and sealing the cut ends.
HeirloomBuilders thank you. I am trying to learn what to focus on and your presentation mirrored the Hardie online instructions. I was very impressed. We break ground in the next couple of weeks so there’s time to learn more. Thanks again.
You point about siding butting up on trim is just very smart.
Anybody know.. In Florida Building Codes for a minimalist small build... If I use ONLY 4x8 hardie for exterior 1/2 inch sheathing/siding over a vapor barior .. do I need any additional sheathing/siding or can that be my finished exterior and meet code? What about over metal stud exterior walls where my interior walls will be horizontal 1/2 inch shiplap?
Thanks for this very informative video. As for for safety I noticed facial hair under your respirator. One cannot get a good protective seal with facial hair...Your respirator seems like it works this way, but it does not protect you fully. You are still at risk for silicosis. To test the fit - Put your respirator on, block the filters with your hands ( remove the soft covers to get to the actual cartridge ) and inhale.....your mask should collapse inward. If you can feel the air move in from the edges near the facial hair and you do create a vacuum your mask is not fitted correctly. At work we had to get fit tested every year by our EH&S department.
Taking the same careful approach to respirator safety as Flashing and waterproofing is well advised.
sornellas58 nice. Thanks for the tip!
If it is warranted for 15 years, what does the 50 year product promise mean ? Do you have to replace your siding in 50 years?
Raymond my understanding is that the 50 year applies to the product as a whole, the 15 year warranty is just the paint finish. If you paint it again after 15 years, it should last 50 years or longer
@@HeirloomBuilders Thank You.
Love the video! I was doing some research on the product and there are some major issues with expansion in heavy frost zones like Minnesota. Do you have harsh winters and if so are you having any fading, expansion, or "rot" issues with Hardie? Just trying to separate the poorly installed material versus well installed material and what the real issues are.
Hardie won’t expand and contract unless it gets saturated, from what I understand. Just make sure to leave a 1/8” gap between butt joints and trim, caulk it, and you should be good to go! If you butt the planks together tight, then water will get into the “end grain”, causing it to swell, and then the joint will buckle. Hardie will fade over time, but it has a much longer life than site applied paint. Rot occurs where there are unpainted surfaces that are exposed to moisture. Make sure to leave a gap above window trim, roof to wall intersections, etc and paint those edges with acrylic latex primer to prevent rot.
Well done
Well you need to use scab outs cuz if moisture or water ever gets behind there how does is drain I inspect homes and have seen wall rotes out because that
That’s definitely a good idea. We’ve never gotten the framed wall so perfectly flat that siding created an absolutely tight water seal against the sheathing. I’m confident that with lap siding, there’s enough small
Gaps between top edge of siding and wall for water to drain. Ship lap siding and flat panels definitely need a rain screen.
good Job
Papa Hansel thank you. We had fun installing Hardie plank on this home
Excellent video.
JoeB
Logan P. Appreciate your video and attention to details and design. What are your thoughts on (A) a rain screen between the siding and WRB, and (B) types of rain screens for walls ?
Rich B Good question. we mostly use a mesh-type rain screen under wood siding, and lime render finishes. We also use them on flat panel installations like board and batten (even if it’s fiber cement) since there’s almost 100% direct contact between WRB and siding with no air space for breathing. I don’t feel it’s absolutely necessary to install a rain screen under lap siding though because the air space underneath each course of siding creates good drying potential. If the project budget can afford it, it’s good practice and relatively cheap insurance! Are you a builder, or just keen on the details?
HeirloomBuilders Thanks for the helpful response. I like building science and examples of real builders, like you, applying different methods depending on regional and budget considerations. I’m an IP/tech lawyer by trade and my primary hobby for the last 20 years has been residential remodeling and design for myself and family. I appreciate pros like you a lot and admire your efficiency and quality application. Keep the great education coming. Mahalo.
Do you have a video for hardy panel board and batten siding installation? Please....
Good idea. I'll put it together next time we have a project. Until then, I would recommend using a rain screen behind the hardie panels, center your panels for symmetry, and try to line up the battens with other trim and penetrations to get clean lines and make it look good. And make sure to add z bar flashing at all horizontal transitions and panel breaks.
Question for you. At 10:00, you're discussing the six inch requirement between the bottom of the sheathing and the ground and overlapping the hardie plank 1/2 inch over the sheathing for a drip drip edge. Would you still not want to put some kind of flashing to cover the bottom of the sheathing there? I'm in Virginia and it's super moist here. As a paranoid home-owner, I think I'd rather having something down there to protect from any splash-up or for any moisture running down behind the siding, but I'm not really sure what that would be or what that would look like.
Hayden Braxton great question. If your foundation will be exposed to splash back, then yes. We either “paint” that entire area with Zip liquid flashing, or use treated plywood for the bottom course of wall sheathing. If you have mulch and foundation plantings, the splash will be minimal and dry out before any damage is done. Waterproofing that edge/area is cheap insurance. So I would recommend doing it if you can.
@@HeirloomBuilders makes sense. Thanks for the quick reply!
Awesome video! I am just starting to put up a workshop (3500 sq ft, 16 ft walls) .... pad is poured ... and am trying to decided between Hardie planking and LP SmartSide (for a board and batten look). How do you treat the cut edges? For example, the window casing in my case will have a straight cut end. Do you prime and paint it before putting up the siding? If so, what do you use? Same with the siding itself. How do you treat the end cuts (this luck there will not be too many but say when you hit a window)... and on the notched piece above the window)? I can't imagine stopping the project for three coats of paint to dry. Do they (Hardie) have some kind of matching paint finish (looked like you were using some kind of touch up paint)?
I can't belive you didn't throw a belly band and hardie shakes on that gable!
Justin Fuqua I thought it would look a lot better that way too. we modeled that in 3D and it really just didn’t look as good.
Why aren't you using a miter saw for cutting? You can hook up a HEPA vac to the port.
Perhaps build a hood for the saw. Then only your arm is getting covered with the cement dust.
How do you nail the planks with high wind areas. THX
Get 1x8's from a sawmill and do board and batten it will cost less.
I love board and batten siding. We’re building a wedding barn right now that will have rough sawn cypress vertical siding.
@@HeirloomBuilders All real wood siding should be vertical , you would never run a wood shingle with the weather running across the grain.
Sir Great Video, what is your take on LP siding vs Hardie Board?
James Fiveash I prefer Hardie when budget is tight and minimal maintenance is the highest priority. However, its easier to work with LP smart side since it’s less brittle and easier to cut/drill holes with standard equipment.
How do you replace wood lap board with this product? I have a darn style house with pine lap siding I hate wood peckers and carpenter bees are destroying my sidind.
I bought my house 3 years ago and it was built in 2007. It doesn’t have hardie board but some other fiber cement. It was painted by the builder. This stuff sucks. The ends on the bottom have rotted and broken because of water. They need repainting already. They have a lot of gaps where the boards have shrunk. Then someone used caulking to fill in the holes. They didn’t use anything behind the gaps except for homewrap. I need to replace a few of the bottom ones and have my house painted. I wish I had brick. Even though I like the look of this stuff. It’s just not durable the way they say. Even hardie board ain’t. They do crack. I don’t know if any builders around here that use hardie. They all paint it themselves. Unless they buy it unpainted.
100fredkrueger sorry to hear about that! A lot of installers and builders think fiber cement is immune to rot because it has cement in it. But it’s mostly wood fiber, and needs to be installed with proper flashing and drainage gaps underneath so you don’t get the rotten effect you’re talking about.
Question: you said you used 5/4 corner boards with the siding butted up to it, yet for the gable you installed trim over the siding. What thickness is the gable trim and what does the transition from corner board to gable trim end up looking like?
Omar Cuellar great questions! Gable trim is a 1x4, which comes out slightly proud or flush with the 1” thick 5/4 corner board. We stop/miter the corner board to allow space for the gable trim. You can see it at 7:10 and the finished detail at 12:37
Gotcha. Thanks for the prompt response. Getting ready to do my home and definitely want to nail these details.
would it be pointless to use mgo board for the outside wallboards than zip than Hardie
Michael D I think so. One or the other under the Hardie plank is fine. I’ve only used MgO board for panelized Hempcrete walls. Where are you located?
@@HeirloomBuilders California in an area where it get to 110 f and below 30 also in a fire zone so i want temperature Resistance
and fire resistance
I would build either pre-cast concrete walls if you like Modern design, or Cobb walls if you like the natural building aesthetic to get the fire resistance. If you keep your 50’ of defensible space, you should also be safe from fires with Hardie plank alone (no MgO necessary).
5:00 - #storyPole
5:55 - Vented #soffit prevents wasps
Can hardie board be installed over old wood siding?
The bottom edge of the ZIP being exposed like that is problematic. Would recommend going back with liquid flashing.
Good idea
How far down to nail 12 inch siding?
Thanks for the video, I have some gap between the Hardieplank and the foundation blocks which is normal, but since spiders, ants and other bugs are crawling in and out, I like to fill it with expanding foam. is there anything wrong with doing that? thanks
The only problem i see with that is preventing any water that gets behind the siding from escaping at the bottom. But hopefully there’s not enough water to create any real sustained issues. That water / condensation is likely to evaporate and not be a big deal
@@HeirloomBuilders Correct, actually it's very hot and sunny here, however I'm leaving some small gaps every like 10' or so , then the moist and humidity can get out. I can monitor that small area for bugs and stuff, but way better than having a big gap all the way around the building since all ants, spiders and lizards can go and make a safe house in there. thanks
I like that strategy